My Tarett sway bar came last friday, but I was not home, so I had to wait all weekend until sometime today to get it. This is killing me. Speaking of killing me... My car has 180# springs and NO swaybars on it. Took it for a drive, and on a slow simple stop and go corner, the back end swung around on me and I almost did a 180. I controlled it just fine, but talk about unstable.... not gunna drive it til i get sway bar. I would like to not drive it til I get 21 or 22mm torsoins on there, but that aint happening.
Ah Ha, no wonder you're not at school
I put my Tarett sway bar together on Saturday just so I could hang it on the wall for a few months until it gets on the car. This was an important step in getting the wife to appreciate it as more than just a short shower curtain rod.
Yeah, ups delivered my front bumper today. Paid for 3 day and got 7 service....the American way I guess.
Chris, you are killing me driving with those 180 springs and no front sway bar. You still have the rear bar hooked up too? Drive it like that at the AX this weekend!!! haha would be interested.
Geoff
No the rear sway bar has been off for a while now. I just wanted to get the car out and drive it a bit to get the fluids moved around and heated up. I was driving like an old woman, really
Geoff, do you still have your rims from your four lug days?
Nope, sold em to RustyWa.....have to get cash to support my habit somehow besides standing by the freeway exit with a cardboard sign "Have old Porsche need money for parts"
It here! Dudes ,Im to the garage
Just measured with my calipers, it 25.4mm thick...wow
[QUOTE]Just measured with my calipers, it 25.4mm thick...wow
Is it larger because it's hollow? Reading the web site it seems it's supposed to be equal to a solid 22mm. Is that your understanding? I want to replace my 19mm Welt and I'm trying to decide what size to go for. Smart Bar lists a 23mm, I don't know if that's hollow and equal to my 19 Welt which wouldn't give me any improvement. Just wondered, trying to sort through the numbers.
All of the Smart bars are hollow. The outside size stays the same and they change the amount of material on the inside. I'll tell you right now that we used to run WELT 21's almost maxed out. So a 31 set in the middle with 225 rear springs makes for a nicely balanced car (914 with a 6)
B
What's the weight difference between a Tarett setup complete like ChrisReale's and a 22mm Weltmeister setup?
Mike T
All the pieces besides the bar are aluminum(i think). The bar itself aint too heavy, but I dont have any numbers..
I didn't think I would go all the way to a 31 bar but now you've got me wondering. Here's my current setup: Front, 22mm hollow bars, Koni Adjustable sports, Welt 19mm set to full firm
Rear, Bilstein sport shocks w/ adjustable perches, 400# Hypercoil springs, 16mm Welt set to full soft, Limited slip.
Car is pretty neutral but I want to gain some adjustment in the front bar and don't like that the droplink is rubbing against the u clamp. Do you think I should go for a 31 bar?
WOW 400's ??? Your asking for the chassis to split in the rear. Are you sure they are 400's ?? That is crazy. At least go with the Tarret 25.4 bar. I use the front bar to compensate for the lack of torsion bar I can put in the car. Its still a street car... so coil overs are out. This will give you some adjustment room.
B
Yes they are definately 400# springs. I had 225's and the car was pushing. Galen at WerksII convinced us to step up the rear springs. It handles fine but the front bar and shocks are at full firm. I've pretty much decided to go with a Smart Bar and am just trying to decide which one.
This car doesnt have a full cage with everything tied together does it ?? It sounds like your compensating for something else that may be incorrect. Galen is awesome at engines/trannies. We have made several changes to "His" customer cars at the track and watched them drive 3-4 seconds faster with our setup.
Buy the biggest bar. Worst case scenerio... you have to run it on full soft. If you ever go to coil overs, dont buy heavy heavy front springs.
B
Brad, yo have time to give me a walk through (step by step )on stiffining the front bar? Im still a bit confused...
Chris,
Do you have a digital camera ??
B
Not at the moment...
Basically, I am confused on what makes it stiffer and softer. I know placing the drop links closer to the bar makes it stiffer, but I dont know when I should lengthen or shortenm the drop link. Do you place the drop link on the arm where you want it to be,, and then lengthen or shorten it to make the bar arms perpendicular...? or does lenghtening/shortening the drop links also play a role in making it stiffer?
OK. See the slide adjustment piece in the pic below ?? As you move it towards the bar you are stiffening the effective rate of the bar. AS you move it towards the front of the car you are softening the effective rate of the bar. It has nothing to do with the drop links. I disconnect a drop link to adjust the bar where I want. I then... adjust the drop link so there is NO pre-load on the bar. You can feel when this happens (while spinning the drop link shaft in your fingers) You will feel it start to get "difficult" to turn. This means you are now putting the bar into bind or pre-load. Back it up a little. Until it turns easily.
B
NO preload when the car is on the ground correct
Here is a great shot of the Smart pieces. I'm sure the Tarret pieces have a right and left hand threaded "shaft".
B
Dont forget to put some weight in the drivers seat to compensate for your skinny ass not being in there, Chris
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)