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Posted by: crash914 Dec 29 2003, 03:44 PM

Ok, I am going to relocate the battery. Should I cut out my battery tray and use it as the mounting plate in the front trunk?

( I got a new welder so this should be fun!!)

Has anybody then ran the positive cable back to the stock location? I have a kill switch there, so I thought it should stay.

The longest battery cables that I saw are 4 gage, 78 inches. Too short? Welding cable?

This should get me about 30 # on my right front wheel, side to side weights are equal, cross weights are off by a little, with the right front wheel the lightest.

This is for a minimal street/maximum track car...

Thanks, herb

Posted by: smrz914 Dec 29 2003, 04:25 PM

Where do you run the cables. I was thinking (for me at least) to use the plastic tubes that use to go to the charcol canister, but I think they are to small.

Posted by: Gint Dec 29 2003, 05:28 PM

I've known people that have used welding cables with no issues. I have heard though IIRC (and I can't remember what I had for lunch yesterday), that it's not a good idea. Something about the size of the conductors within the cable. I'm sure we'll hear more about that as this thread progresses.

Posted by: ss6 Dec 29 2003, 07:24 PM

You can use welding cable, but yer gonna pay for the privilege. Nothing special about welding cable other than it's made to be more flexible than most other wire, and the insulation tougher to withstand constant use. Why not just buy some battery cable from your local FLAPs? I relocated my batt to the front trunk, and used about 15 ft of #2, though #4 is probably just fine. Ran it along the center tunnel pass side.

If I had it to do over again, I probably wouldn't. The rain issues can be solved with a plastic bag over the top of the battery, and I doubt I'll ever flog the car hard enough to notice the slight difference in center of gravity. I'd probably make a bigger difference by losing 10 lbs...

Posted by: ChrisReale Dec 29 2003, 07:38 PM

Why relocate your battery?

Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 07:48 PM

Herb,

I purchased a Painless wiring kit that provided more than enough wire to relocate battery to front trunk and provide power to starter.

For a cleaner appearance, I purchased two bulkhead connectors to keep cables out of view. One is installed in front trunk near battery to transfer power through front trunk/fuel tank bulkhead. The second one transfers power through bulkhead where a stock 6 cyl. oil tank would mount.

Positive wire is run through first bulkhead and under fuel tank to defrost opening (into cabin area). Comes out right above drivers side radio speaker and through long. to heater opening in engine bay. From there I snaked positive cable into area where stock 6 cyl. oil tank would mount and connected to second bulkhead connector.

This provides power to engine bay and you can do what you want from here. I ran a cable direct to starter and also connected remaining positive leads to this point.

I'll enclose some pics and hopefully clarify what I "tried" to explain : )

First pic is of battery installation. I used a tray provided by Renegade Hybrids that bolts directly to floor. You could also weld your stock tray here.

John


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Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 07:50 PM

asdf

I failed to mention that ground is just a short piece of one foot long cable (also provided with Painless kit) from battery to bolt installed in forward bulkhead.


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Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 07:51 PM

Close up of forward bulkhead connector:


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Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 07:53 PM

Sorry but no pics available of positive cable under fuel tank or cabin........it's all out of view now. This is rear bulkhead connector. I choose drivers side but you go to either side with the same amount of effort.


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Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 07:56 PM

another shot of rear bulkhead connector


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Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 08:00 PM

previous pic is where power feeds rear of car with everying requiring power except starter. Attached pic shows large red wire routed from engine/starter.........disconnected end mounts to rear bulkhead connector.


Note: Painless wiring kit included all positive and neg. wire needed, heatshrink material and some (4?) brass end connectors. I had to come up with several more brass connectors as well as both bulkhead connectors (FLAPS).

John


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Posted by: nealnorlack Dec 29 2003, 08:01 PM

Hi,
My 73 2.2 is used only on the street but I wanted to relocate my battery to the front trunk anyway. I pulled out the plastic tubes for the charcoal cannister and routed the cable through the same grommets. I used #2 cable and it works great. I don't know if it has improved the way the car handles, I just wanted to do something different with it.
Cheers, Elliot

Posted by: Gint Dec 29 2003, 08:41 PM

I hate to hijack a thread...

John2kx,

You found those chassis lugs/insulators at a FLAPS? Anymore details? And what kind of kit did you purchase from Painless? Full kit? Details? I remember seeing you car on Pelican when you were starting or mid-project. It appears as if you've dome an especially nice job on everything. Do you have a web page or something with ALL of you pics of the build? I would LOVE to see them all.

Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 08:55 PM

Gint,

I ordered the wiring kit through Jeggs or Summit. Nothing fancy.......just choose the Painless brand through word of mouth. It was listed as a rear trunk battery location kit.......cost was about $50. I can look it up if you need more detail. From what I remember, there weren't many choices.

I found the bulkhead connectors and addition brass lugs at my local hotrod shop. A step above a auto parts store. I think I spent about $5-8 on these total. Again, if you can't find these, let me know and I'll get more information or send you what you need.

Sorry, but I don't have a website. It's all I can do to get around the BBS. I've had many requests for pics from guys all over the place. Maybe I'll get better organized and post my entire build here. It sure would save me alot of time as apposed to sending pics to individuals. I would have given my right nut to have pics during the build. Would have saved a trip for two to Vegas!

John

Posted by: John2kx Dec 29 2003, 09:07 PM

Gint,

Just so happened to have a catalog handy.

Painless battery cable mounting kit #764-40100 $53.99 through Jeggs.

Similar but heavier duty bulkhead connectors: "through panel connectors" #555-10317 $9.99 ea.

Billet aluminum battery holder: not what I used but available at Jeggs, for Optima battery, #555-10250 at $119.99 ea.. I believe I paid $100 for similar piece (but better looking IMHO) from RH.

John

Posted by: 914rick Dec 29 2003, 09:11 PM

Has anyone tried mounting 2, 6 volt bataries in the rear trunk. I was thinking of 2, 6 volt Optima battaries because they are about half the size (height) of the 12 volt. If you mounted them side by side, in the rear trunk, I don't think that there would be a clearance problem with storing the top. Any thoughts?

Rick

Posted by: SirAndy Dec 29 2003, 09:21 PM

Posted by: boxstr Dec 29 2003, 09:57 PM

I have two Optima six volt batteries in my front trunk.......of my 73 911.
For Painless try http://www.painlessperformance.com, also www.HotronicsProducts.com or www.ezwiring.com
CCLINSPAGHETTIHEAVEN

Posted by: campbellcj Dec 30 2003, 12:56 AM

Yikes...I was about to ask about the billet battery hold-down bracket. I need an "metal strap" setup to be officially legal (POC). I think I'll stick with the el-cheapo strip of aluminum and all-thread approach I was planning before I saw your cool pics

Then again, instead of a fancy optima bracket, maybe I should spend the dough on a lightweight dry-cell race battery

Posted by: ChrisReale Dec 30 2003, 01:04 AM

I'll ask again, why move the battery? Unless your shit is totally f'up, what do you plan on gaining by moving it?

Posted by: Brad Roberts Dec 30 2003, 05:21 AM

John,

Before you post all the pics.. let me finish testing a new piece of software that allows users to upload files and auto create a "readers rides" area.

Chris,

There is some advantage to be had by moving the battery lower in the car and towards the front. In cross weights we have found the best location to be about where the passengers feet would end up if somebody was in the passenger seat. Some orgs dont like the idea of a battery in the passenger area... so people just move them a littler farther forward (ends up about 12 inches from my reference) into the trunk.

B

Posted by: John2kx Dec 30 2003, 05:22 AM

Chris,

I moved my battery for a couple of reasons since my car has a v8. The drivetrain weighs a little more than the stock setup and the battery move helped offset this difference. The other reason was to cleanup engine bay and provide more room for other conversion parts (expansion tank and radiator fill port)

John

Posted by: John2kx Dec 30 2003, 05:25 AM

Gotcha Brad. I'll contact you before putting anything together.

John

Posted by: crash914 Dec 30 2003, 06:51 AM

Wow, great pictures....nothing like a v-8 bolted to a 901 tranny......

I am moving the battery to get a better weight distribution and to gain a place to mount my megasquirt relay box.

I have too many wires in the engine bay to work around.

Besides, I get to play with my new welder....cheers. herb

Posted by: Gint Dec 30 2003, 08:34 AM

Posted by: jridder Dec 30 2003, 06:44 PM

I can't see any reason in moving the battery. On my V8 there is plenty of room in the engine compartment. I certainly don't see any reason to move weight from the rear wheels to the front. That would hurt both acceleration and braking.