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Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 30 2003, 09:14 AM

you were definitely on my mind Saturday !

went to install the stiffer gate springs in the RennShifter. 3 of the 4 Torx screws came up just fine. the 4th (right rear) fought me tooth and nail. when the normal socket handle didn't work, i tried the impact driver and just succeeded in rounding the splines off the Torx bit. ground the nose down to good splines and tried again, using the time to let some PB Blaster soak in. that didn't loosen the screw, but it -did- remove the splines from both the driver and the screw. tried an appropriately sized square EZ Out screw extractor. the screw head is too shallow for that approach.

put a teeny cutoff wheel in the Dremel and managed to cut a slot for screwdriver blade. nada. heat from the kitchen torch didn't seem to do much, finally i put a sharp chisel in that slot and a few VERY solid blows from the 2,5-lb bronze hammer got it un-stuck. Sheesh!

used stainless full Allen-head capscrews (not the little aerodynamic roundhead stuff...) with anti-sieze on the threads for reassembly. (1/4" fine x 1" for anyone wanting to try this at home...)

love the improved gated feel. took Joy out to get some 911 stick time Sunday and while it'll be a while before she's really comfortable in the car, there were no gear selection issues. the 'just push forward' 1->2 upshift is a thing of beauty, as is the 'just pull back' 4->3 downshift. eeriely empathic - it's like the car just knows what gear it ought to be in.

great product. i think it will impress a bunch of AX and DE instructors when they get the chance to check it out this coming season.

Posted by: drew365 Dec 30 2003, 09:52 AM

I had the same experience, 3 torx screws came out, one sat there and said you'll have to try harder than that. Penetrating oil and several hard taps with a small chisel finally did it. By then there was nearly nothing left of the cap. Having the heavier spring for R-1 was worth it though.

Posted by: James Adams Dec 30 2003, 11:22 AM

Sorry about that! They come with regular allen socket head screws now...

Posted by: jfort Dec 30 2003, 12:24 PM

do you have to un-install the shifter to make the spring change? mine is perfect now and i don't want to take it out.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 30 2003, 12:30 PM

nope. the access plates are right on top. you can change either or both springs independently. the rightside spring controls the R/1 gate, the left spring controls the 4/5 gate.

5 minutes when the fasteners come out ...

for completeness - i've had mine out 2 or 3 times to do other center-tunnel work, and i have not had to perform any adjustments upon re-installation. it's positively located by the mounting bolts and i haven't had to tinker with the shift rod since i got it all working right. i was dreading it too but it has turned out to be a non-issue.

Posted by: drew365 Dec 30 2003, 03:46 PM

Now that I have my shifter adjusted I painted a small red line on the shift rod and the coupler where they mate so if I do remove the shifter I won't have to play with alignment.

Posted by: campbellcj Dec 30 2003, 03:57 PM

I almost mangled the torx screw heads too. I think buttonhead style fasteners are approaching their torque limits in this application -- tough little buggers to get out. I realized the $2.99 far-east torx mega-set wasn't gonna cut it. I went and bought some good quality torx sockets and they fit more precisely; no prob after that.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 30 2003, 04:02 PM

whose did you get? my T-27 is toast and will need replacement ...

there aren't many in the 911 but i still find them now and then in the Subie and small household appliances...

Posted by: campbellcj Dec 30 2003, 07:57 PM

Rich - Craftsman/Sears. Good 'nuff for my purposes, which for Torx fasteners is about once every few years...