Hey guys, just spent some fruitless wrench work on the 914 downstairs in preparation for an engine drop and something gave me pause.
I have an engine code that starts with GD
it's a '76 that's had it's emissions and fuel injection stripped, but the engine is NOT stock and it's a rebuilt unit from VW canada.
It has 1.7L AMC heads (because of the intake bolt pattern and spark plug locations)
WTF ENGINE IS IN MY CAR????
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/enginecodes.htm
according to that i have a type 2 ????!?!?!!?!?
it has hydraulic lifters and appears a complete cobble-job.
What should I do?
I also found out my carb is a weber 32/36 DFAV meaning it's a progressive with a WATER choke?!
WTF crack was smoked here?
some engine experts help me with this overheating pig of an engine please! what is this thing? anyone know of VW canada's products?
Something depressing just hit me...this is a bus engine, and that engine code just confirmed it, along with the hydro lifters...
Should i waste any more time on this engine? i mean it runs decently, it's completely gutless and has no power at or near 5k rpm even with a mallory on it and headers.
What the hell should i do now?
That sucks. I would just drive it as is and start collecting parts to install a proper engine.
A bus engine would have the dipstick forward by the fan, rather that up top.
I also agree. Drive it till it dies, and have nice 2056 ready to drop in when it does.
VW Canada had a remanufacturing facility in Toronto, Ontario. They produced top quality rebuilds for many years, so the base engine you got was probably sound. However, it is a bus engine, so it has low compression, small valves, etc. The heads can be reworked by Len Hoffman to support a 200HP engine. Your carbs are a joke, you need to get something useful there. Bore the cylinders to 96mm and put in some decent pistons. Get a good cam. Talk to Jake about a kit, or to McMark about his rebuilds.
I have seen the VWOC rebuilds in al states of oddity.. Most have over sized oil pressure relief pistons, odd things done to the oil system, altered running clearances and overbored cyloinders with odd bore sizes..
It **MAY** be a good base for an engine kit, but we'd have to determine that after an inspection on this end..
Tear it all the way down and see what you have, use my video as a guide and start the project off right.
Hey Jake, I was really REALLY considering getting a kit from you for a 2056 and building it out of the car while I drive this pig into the ground and sending the old one to you for an...autopsy just to figure out exactly WTF engine this is. Is that doable?
On the side of carbs... the ones you have on your site Jake, have you gone over those or am I in for a rebuild when I get them?
AMC doesn't make 1.7 heads, AFIK.
I've seen VW Canada reman engines fail. In one case in as little as 20 miles.
AMC does make 1.7 heads. I have them on my shelf :-)
All the carbs listed on my site are new, set up for your engine. If you buy the engine kit we can set them up near perfectly for you at the same time.
Engine kit policies and prices change 12/1/07 for the 2008 models, so you might need to make up your mind soon :-)
krusty, I have 3 pictures that say otherwise
What kind of policy changes are you talking about jake?
and what does an oversize oil relief piston mean? what does that do?
I just ordered your engine rebuilding DVD (you prolly can see that) and I'm craving info on the engine kits.
Would I have to do these cryptic things like determine my CC's of the combustion chamber and measure rocker geometry and cut valves and this bizness?
If I can be given some prepped parts and good instructions I can make damn near anything. It's just when I have to custom this or grind that, that i start to get pissy someone sells something called 'kit' that can't just be bolted together.
In other words, I'm not an engine designer, does this fact affect the outcome of the kit I put together? I dont know what quench is, I dont know what the numbers on your cams mean, etc. I'd like to build the engine like it's a black box. gas & air go in, power comes out.
I'm sure I sound very ignorant at this point, and I don't deny that I AM...about engine design. I know high performance computing and I'm good with my hands. I've played with legos since i was 2, and did RC cars since i was 8. Full size engines are somewhat of a mystery to me. I know what this and that does, but apart from being able to put engines together, knowing the different phases and houses of jupiter and rain wizards contained in the cylinders is not something I know. I'm willing to learn
I'm an ass for posting this
These xls spreadsheets say a lot to me.
I'll have to find:
a block
heads
the PARTS cost almost 4.5k?
that's amazing
word! So now i've gotta come up with ohh.. 5k? roughly?
by the policy enforcement, i misunderstand, does that mean that anyone other that you or mcmark arent going to be allowed? So if I want to build it, i'm forbidden? I'm not about to take all your goodies to some shop monkeys.
We do not build kit engines. Our turn keys are completely new further updated versions of similar engines.
DTM engineering is not a subsidiary of my company, they are a separate shop located in Atlanta. Other than mcmark they are the only "shop" authorized to assemble our kits.
The program is made for YOU to assemble... Not your mechanic, who will more than likely fuck it up when his bad habits are applied...
Did I misunderstood ? I thought the heads were included in the kit ! ...
Yes, heads are always part of a kit. Without the specifically prepped heads we could not offer a completely engineered, ready to assemble arrangement.
Btw_ the only heads that have an altered plug location or diFferent intake stud count are the 2.0 914 heads. All other heads are the same in these areas. An examination of the chambers will explain what the heads really are.
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