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Posted by: computers4kids Dec 22 2007, 10:52 AM

What would a set of fuch alloys look like if you glass bead 100% of them? Pros/Cons?

I know this is an odd question, but I'm looking at 4 fuch alloys and two of them are fully polished and two have the original anodizing on the inserts with polished pedals and lips.

The goal to get the four wheels to look a matched set. I may or may not decide to accent the recesses black satin.

Looking for options...
Thanx

Posted by: Gint Dec 22 2007, 10:57 AM

BTDT. It's a little tedious to get a consistent finish across the entire wheel.

Posted by: boxstr Dec 22 2007, 11:05 AM

Same here. I would just send them in for a polish.
CCL

Posted by: rhodyguy Dec 22 2007, 11:07 AM

for personal use or to sell them? for sale, seems like a lot of work for what will result in a non stock appearance that may be hard to undo. if fs let the new owner figure it out.

Posted by: Gint Dec 22 2007, 11:42 AM

I only did it as a precursor to polishing.

BTW - It would be a royal bitch to keep them clean.

Posted by: computers4kids Dec 22 2007, 11:51 AM

They would be for personal use...then of course, everything is for sale eventually.

I was looking for a darn near perfect set of 2ltr alloys for my project car and I came across these wheels that looked perfect on first look. The wheels had the inserts painted to match the owner's car and he stripped the paint off and discovered that two of the wheels were polished under the paint and two had the stock anodize. The owner and I are deciding where to go from here...the deal hasn't been made yet.

The owner is seeking options, but no matter which direction you go it sounds costly to the owner other than the glass beading.

That's why I (we) need some advice...

Posted by: McMark Dec 22 2007, 11:56 AM

I'd say, either cancel the deal and move on, or adjust th price accordingly and you can get the finish work done. I wouldn't run bare beadblasted wheels because of the dirt issue. Now bead blast then paint with clear coat.... that might work.

Posted by: boxstr Dec 22 2007, 12:01 PM

Soda blast will leave a cleaner smoother finish. I tried it on a Fuchs 5 lug wheel.
The media blasting leaves a much more porous finish, and it definetly will be hard to keep clean, left that way.
CCL

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 22 2007, 12:15 PM

Do not glass bead blast Fuchs. They will pit.

I did that exact thing with a fairly ugly one that I used for a spare. It polished up but, the bead blasting was too agressive for a decent finish. It left visable pits all over the wheel.

I've restored a tremendous amount of Fuchs wheels on my own. Best bet is either plastic media or walnut. Another option is acid dipping. If you know someone at a chrome or anodizing shop who is competent this can be done easily (dip until yellow bubbles start to appear then pull and rinse.)

Once they are cleaned they can be polished. Have them polished to a very high shine. Then have them reanodized to protect the finish another 30 years.

We have to remember; the Fuchs we are looking at today are over 30 years old. That's tremendous. No chromed wheel would ever stand up that long.

Here's a dipping tank:


Out of the tank:


Here's all the wheels I did in that batch:


Here's some various finishes that came from this batch. 16x7" High Polish:


Here's a step through of a classic polished paddle on a set of 14" comforts:





Here's the one's I did for my RS clone:

Posted by: lotus_65 Dec 22 2007, 12:25 PM

I was going to trade my fuches with mark, but i found (after stripping the paint off the inset part) that I have 2 that are anodized, and 2 that are fully polished. there's clear on all.

The object is to get them all uniform without a great deal of expense.

They're currently with a buddy and i was going to get the plastic-media-blasted. i don't know if that'll remove the anodization, but the next step would be to chemically, or if possible glass-bead-blast them to pull the anodized finish.

That's the backstory, any advice, recommendations welcome.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 22 2007, 12:35 PM

Any anodizing shop can de-anodize them. Again, I would not bead blast. Plastic and/or walnut "can" get the anodizing layer off. It should be obvious to the person doig the blasting as the patina changes as you go through that layer.

Posted by: lotus_65 Dec 22 2007, 12:41 PM

yea eric, that's what my guy thought.

if that fails, could they be de-anodized with the rubber still on? i'm thinking no way.

Posted by: Gint Dec 22 2007, 12:44 PM

Basically that's true, but I can't completely agree. If you work your ass off polishing them afterwards you can "de-pit" them successfully. But I don't recommend it. It's a *lot* of work.

Hey Eric, what black paint did you use?

Proof:

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 22 2007, 01:02 PM

Beats me. Troy squirted them for me. With the "ferrywinkles" I believe it was a Silkens. For the black, Wurth Semi-Gloss is best.

Posted by: sixgt Dec 22 2007, 01:12 PM

You can remove the anodization with over cleaner. The lye in it will break down the hard anodization on the wheel. You need to be careful though not to leave it on too long as it can pit the wheel. You can repolish it afterwards.

Posted by: robby750 Dec 22 2007, 02:30 PM

Just put the two matching wheels on the same side of the car. Nobody will know they are different if they can't see them all at the same time.

Posted by: scotty b Dec 22 2007, 04:07 PM

Remove the anodizing with Eazy Off oven cleaner. Old trick, been around for years. Then have them soda blasted. Not a Fuch but I glass beaded my C2's this is what glass bead comes out like.Powder coated when I got them, stripped that with aircraft remover ( ha ha ) than beaded.

Also note the pitting IS NOT from the glass bead but is the original casting. I regularly glass bead aluminum ans steel parts at werk and have NEVER had glass bead "pit" anything. Aluminum oxide YES that will pit.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 22 2007, 04:41 PM

Mine pitted big time and... I'm not lying.

Posted by: scotty b Dec 22 2007, 04:55 PM

Perhaps our versions of pitting are different. I certainly didn't think you were lying, but to me the finish left by glass bead is not a pitting as much as a texturing. Yes it leaves a "textured" surface. In my opinion "pitting" is morte along the lines of rust pitting on an inner rocker. Deep inclusions etc.

Posted by: rdauenhauer Dec 22 2007, 07:33 PM

You mean like this?

Posted by: bigkensteele Dec 23 2007, 01:38 AM

Wouldn't dipping remove the black paint between the beads?

Here is a long, but related thread from Pelican.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=204863&highlight=blast+fuchs

Discuss...

Posted by: orthobiz Dec 23 2007, 08:31 AM

jamagro@juno.com
sales@magrowheels.com
Magro is a member of this site. Really easy to talk to, great reputation. He's done many of the Fuchs 914 wheels. I believe he polishes the spokes and paints the background a color similar to the patina of the original.

I've spoken to him once; I believe other members can chime in. But if it involves paint, I'll bet he can get the four wheels looking close to one another. I just know he'd be good to talk to...

Paul

Posted by: lotus_65 Dec 24 2007, 03:40 AM

thanks for the tip, Paul.

The http://www.magrowheels.com/tire%20diameter.html site has one of the clearest tire charts i've seen, btw.

Posted by: yarin Dec 24 2007, 09:28 AM

I'm planning on sandblasting my Panasports soon, then powder coating with a gloss powder. Any tips? I'd prefer to polish the lip as well. Then apply a clear powder coat on everything. Is this doable?

Presently the wheels have some sort of factory coating on the inner spokes that is chipped in places. My goal is to strip all of the old coating off and powdercoat.

Also - should I avoid powder coating the seating surface? what about the valve stem seat? I would imagine i don't want to touch the seating surface to the hub. right?

Is there any possible damage to a wheel like this by baking at 375F for 20 mins?

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

Here are specs on panasports:

*New, virgin aluminum alloy materials used throughout.
*Hub centric machining for every application, no universal sleeves
*Steel, tapered-face inserted lug holes for secure fixing and self-centering attachment
*Heat treated for high strength and durability
*The proper balance of designed material location providing a light weight wheel with intense strength

Would the steel/aluminium combo cause an issue when curing the powdercoat? I really don't want to compromise the integrity of these wheels, safety first

Posted by: Mikey914 Dec 24 2007, 01:59 PM

The best way to clean the Fuchs (short of dipping) is to soda blast them. Soda blasting removes only the finish not the metal.
http://www.sodablasting.com/what_is_soda_blasting.html

I have used a company here in Portland to remove Flouropolymer paint for an some of my railings. I was amazed that the finish could be removed without pitting the metal.

Posted by: jaminM3 Dec 24 2007, 04:27 PM

Hey Eric, is this one of the services you offer? When I do my 5 lug conversion I plan on going with Fuchs and I want them polished with the black like you did.
How much ??

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 24 2007, 05:03 PM

I can turn you on to all the sources here in the valley and then I can help you tape them out:

Crown Plating - Joe. 911 owner and can dip the wheels.

Metal Masters - Scott. Has done many Fuchs. Polished paddle look was around $65-75 per wheel.

If you don't plan on anodizing them again, the rest is simply taping them off and painting them.