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Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 14 2008, 08:42 PM

Today was the first chance that I could really dig into the 914 today. First order of business was to tackle the sagging rear springs and the totally rusted out original exhaust.

The exhaust was surprisingly easy to remove considering its age. Now Ive ran into a problem with its replacement. I got a Bursch that I think is wrong because its tail pipe misses the cutout by a good 4-5 inches. Do I have to bend the pipe ?

As for the springs. I was able to remove the pass side wheel no problem and was shocked to find very dirty Koni reds on the car. Unfortunately its no good though and the have to be replaced as well. Do you guys like Bilstein is a good replacement ? Id love konis but there so freakin costly.

Heres the BIG problem we cannot get one lug bolt off the drivers side. We broke 3 sockets and tried using an electric impact. One pull of the lug wrench actually put my helper right through the dry wall in my garage. Please give advice for me on this.

Overall working on this car was a blast !

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Apr 14 2008, 09:06 PM

There is only one solution to a teener headache:


The solution works best with company:


Just ask any teener-haver.


Zach

Posted by: iamchappy Apr 14 2008, 09:14 PM

I agree all you need are two things.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: 736conver Apr 14 2008, 09:16 PM

Not sure what torque an electric gun has but ive never run into a bolt/nut my air gun couldnt remove.

I'm guessing you dont have that though. Try a nice 6 foot pipe and slide that onto your lug wrench. You will most likely have to wedge something into the rim to stop the tire from spinning though.

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 14 2008, 09:18 PM

Yeah we tried using a breaker bar and wedged a crowbar into the wheel still wont budge.

Posted by: rick 918-S Apr 14 2008, 09:18 PM

What type of wheel do you have? Steelie? Use some heat. A couple three cycles, then spray some PB Blaster between the wheel and the hub. Use a good impact socket and a 4-5' pipe.

Posted by: ericread Apr 14 2008, 09:20 PM

I disagree. A teener has a multiple solution matrix:

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 14 2008, 09:22 PM

Yep its a steel wheel, also sprayed so much PB I smell like I took a bath in it.

Posted by: 736conver Apr 14 2008, 09:24 PM

By breaker bar do you mean a little craftsman breaker bar. You need a big pipe. Leverage is your friend. I have a 5 foot pipe in the corner of my shop just for things like that

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 14 2008, 09:28 PM

Yeah its like a 2 foot bar.

Posted by: 736conver Apr 14 2008, 09:32 PM

Not long enough.

Posted by: Joe Mama Apr 14 2008, 09:32 PM

3/4 inch drive, breaker bar with a pipe slipped over end, set the 19mm socket and bar at 9 o'clock and jump on the end.....my pipe is my oldest tool. Probably from the 50s.....an old friend left it and then got KIA in 'Nam.

Posted by: ejm Apr 14 2008, 09:39 PM

Hit the head of the bolt with a big hammer a few times to loosen the threads.

Posted by: SirAndy Apr 14 2008, 10:01 PM

heat

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 14 2008, 10:17 PM

Ok I will try again tommrow on the lug bolt. What about the muffler and shocks ?

Posted by: 736conver Apr 14 2008, 10:24 PM

Shocks can be sent out to Koni to get rebuilt. Dont know the cost might be cheaper then Bilsteins. Last time I check bilsteins were around $100 a piece

Posted by: rhodyguy Apr 15 2008, 08:43 AM

spray the backside of the lug bolts, the inboard side, too. a pneumatic impact is handy. no compressor? check your local rental store for an electric version or buy one. ed is spot on with smacking the heads of the bolts. helps to break the rust bond and vibrate the penetrating fluid in.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 15 2008, 10:28 AM

You guys put far too much faith in power tools. Over the years, I've encountered a LOT of lug bolts an impact won't touch. Sturdy socket, big bar, and a long piece of pipe always get it done. The Cap'n

Posted by: zymurgist Apr 15 2008, 11:27 AM

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Posted by: dw914er Apr 15 2008, 11:32 AM

what exactly is wrong with the exhaust? is everything from the heat exchangers on the head to the transmission mount bar all correct, and it still misses?

Posted by: LetoAtreides Apr 15 2008, 12:06 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Bursch muffler systems come with a space between the pipes that come from the headers and the muffler itself. This space is reserved for a catalytic converter or bypass pipe.

Posted by: McMark Apr 15 2008, 12:13 PM

What year is your car? What does the rear valence look like? There are three different valences.

Posted by: Spoke Apr 15 2008, 01:15 PM

Show us the muffler. This will help ID the problem.

Sagging springs are a characteristic of old age. You didn't mention if you thought the shocks were bad.

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 01:36 PM

Once I got the coil off of the shock I could press down on the shock with little resistence.

Taking a pic of the muffler now.

Posted by: 1970 Neun vierzehn Apr 15 2008, 01:44 PM

When I encounter a fastener or bolt that won't budge, after I've sprayed it with a penetrant, I try to tighten it about an 1/8 of a turn to break the threads loose before turning to remove it. That has always worked on the 914 and my old motorcycles. Also, when it comes to refastening bolts or my 914 wheel studs, I always put a tiny bit of anti-seize grease on the threads to facilitate removal at some later time.

Paul

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 02:35 PM

Here it is you can see something isnt right.

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 02:41 PM

Posted by: r_towle Apr 15 2008, 02:44 PM

looks like a 1.7 muffler on 2.0 liter HE's

The 1.7 HE's have a bend that moves the muffler up higher..thus the drop in the tailpipe.

the 2.0 liter has straight HE's

Looks like the wrong part to me.

Rich

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 02:50 PM

The Car does have Stainless Heat Exchangers So maybe there not right for this car because when the muffler was bolted on it sat up way higher then the stock one. Almost touching the heat shield.

Posted by: dw914er Apr 15 2008, 02:52 PM

Posted by: purple Apr 15 2008, 03:09 PM

I'm amazed no one has mentioned this yet....

loosen your lugnuts BEFORE you lift the car off the ground. something about the car putting force perpendicular to the plane you're working in makes them SUPER easy to loosen compared to doing it after the car is off the tires.

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 05:48 PM

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 15 2008, 05:50 PM

Posted above is a picture taken of the end of the heat exchanger. Is it a 2.0 or 1.7 ?

Posted by: Grelber Apr 15 2008, 06:32 PM

That's a 1.7L exhaust. Besides the curve, the flange is a different size, so a 2.0L Bursch won't bolt up to a 1.7L exhaust at all.

Posted by: r_towle Apr 15 2008, 09:27 PM

Those are the right HE's , they are 1.7/1.8.

Show a pic of the tranny bracket for the back muffler, a pic of the muffler out of the car and a pic of the tranny mounting in the rear (how the tranny is mounted to the car)...sumpin aint right.

I have the same setup and its 1/4 inch from the valence hole, nice and tight.
post Three pics.
Rich

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 17 2008, 08:33 PM

Heres the latest update. Lug bolt is off ! As soon as I bought an impact socket it took it right off. I installed the new Bilstein shocks with 100lb weltmeister springs.

As for the exhaust I put it on anyway b/c atomotion wasnt going to take it back b/c I bought it 3 months ago and was saving it for when it got warmer to work on it. Im going to look for a different (original) rear valance next week in Hershey.

Next project Master Cylinder !!!

Posted by: jsayre914 Apr 17 2008, 10:06 PM

Are you keeping the exhaust like this??

Posted by: WizPorsche914 Apr 18 2008, 08:53 AM

no once it mounted it looks 95% better