HELP ME with this. I want every ones opinion.
build a nice 2056 and forget sinking all the money into a conversion....
if you must then stick with a Porsche 6, others will disagree.
I got my car with the intention of converting to a Subaru. After much thought and research, I have decided to go with a built Type IV. If finances allowed, I would consider a /6 conversion.
The Subaru would be great fun... but it would be too much fun for the street, and not legal to race anywhere that it would be competitive.
But, the final answer is, only you can decide what you want. Start by making a list of what features are important to you. Then evaluate your options.
geo 1000cc 3cylinder
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go sbc.... no replacement for displacement!!!
I have to disagree Troy, a couple of PSI and 1/2 the weight replace the displacement. I would love to do a turbo /6, but it is really expensive. There are many 911's running in the 350 to 450+ range, but that is way beyond what a teener is willing to spend on a motor, let alone the rest of the upgrades that have to happen to handle that many ponies.
What's your budget? What are you going to do with the car? Autocross or any kind of racing? Or just street?
I vote a 911 6
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I don't know yet. I am going to dyno it in a few weeks. I just put it in. It is a stock 73 911 engine I bought for 2700. The other conversion stuff will cost you a little more but you can do a quick and dirty for under 5 if you look patiently.
The 2.0l six I replaced had 112hp to the rear wheels when I dynoed it. I'm not sure what this one will come to but it feels much stronger. Got on the freeway the other day and it ws very nice
Keep it Porsche. IMO a chevy belongs in a chevy, subaru in a subaru.
Flame suit on!!
where was the type 4 option????
after that, a 6 conversion will suit, and is probably easier to put on
For your budget, sticking with the TIV is the right thing to do. Dan nailed it in the first reply. Do the job right instead of trying to hack something together on the cheap. The car will be a blast with 120hp.
I would be happy to match my old Puttputt with 2056 up against any small bore 6 at the AX , and at many tracks as well...
nothing against 6s, because I had a nice one...
some of the other conversions are nice, but they are not cheap....
5K wont get you far with any type of conversion...then what do you end up with. a 914 on jackstands that never gets back on the road...
but you have to do what you want, it is your car...
It's true... when I had my 2.0l six a Euro spec 2.0l four was always right on my heals. I actaully think it was faster than my car. I think it would be close to a 2056. If you went the six route and did it yourself you would still have to use the cheap stuff. Do it right and enjoy it more. The type IV is very amazing with what people are doing to them.
i would say, for the inherent nature of the 914, a big, fast quick motor isnt needed to have fun driving the car. My mild 2l type4 makes for an amazing car to drive, and it still sounds really good.
btw, has anyone done a vr6, or the supercharged i4?
also, Vw did a 1.8 (or the newer version is a 2.0) turbo i4 (if the i4 and vr6 were both vw)
i would say though for a newer vw motor, the turbo i4 is easier and cheaper to mod than a vr6.
I think the choice is obvious, see below!
Also gonna jump on the mild type 4 band wagon, you can have alot of fun and work on other areas like suspension and brakes and aesthetics. a $2000 refresh on my cammed 2 liter and a carb rebuilt made it plenty happy.
Try and remember, no matter what yo udo(generally) its not a drag race car...finesse and handling is the strongsuit and 130 hp four is great fun indeed. Even at this level, suspension is probably next in line to a fun ride.\
Good Luck in your decision
There is always a Turbo Type IV
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what kind of freak would put a porsche engine in a 914
My brother-in-law has a VW Passat W-8.
I've wondered a few times about that conversion.
270 hp @ 6000 rpm and 273 ft·lbf (370 N·m) of torque at 2750 rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=df4vG67CPsI
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W8_engine
And I wouldn't even have to re-badge my car!
I think $5K would be best spent on making the most of the original car. If you dump the money into just making the car Right again, you'll have something to be proud of and it will be keeping another teener unmolested.
Now if your into molesting cars....your going to need alot more money to build the toy. Look at the Pelican site and see the thread about what folks are spending on their cars. $30-40,000 and they still aren't done.
You might not even have to do a conversion anymore thanks to a dude named Jake, he can make the stock 4 motors do crazy stuff depending on how much you want to spend....I saw one motor he built (on Youtube) had over 200 horsepower and cost 13,000 dollars and was just nuts!, I know he has more affordable engines for much less, but the four is just one thing to think about.....other than that, all I could dream about would be a nice 3.2 or 3.6 6 cylinder engine in there. Keep it German!!
I have a 2.7 rs in my original 6 and have a 2056 in my other and while I can,t drive them side by side my feeling is the 2056 feels and is lighter, sure seems quicker at lower rpm and is more fun to drive at reasonable speeds. The 6 is heavier, feels that way, but at higher rpm can sure build up speed and top end much faster. I love them both.
Just my 2 sense
Jule
I chose porsche 6. but if you're trying to a stay close to 5k, i would say keep the 4. Enjoy a 4!
IMO, conversions take to much time and money, and not worth it unless you really want to bump up HP. I would rather own a nicely done 4, than something you had to cut corners on.
"None of the above"
Leave it with the 2.0L 4-cyl engine! If I need HP, I can go the Raby route. Stock is the way to build future value.
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should"
Can anyone show us anything besides a type 4 or a Porsche 6 conversion that's still a decent car after 10-15-20 years? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
pj hahn
There's always the Boeing turbine engine...
That was just wild
Jet Powered Beetle, anyone?
http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/
Bonus: it scares off tailgaters.
That is a sweet car ya got there!
I would much rather have a well sorted stocker than a conversion done on an excessively tight budget (like 5K for example).
I love my conversion but remember, there is nothing wrong with a stock 914, even in stock form these cars are a total blast!
I voted the 911 engine becuase it is what I like most. If I was on a budget, I would still stick air cooled Porsche/VW and keep it correct and in the family. If you want a Big Block or 5.7 in a small car, go buy a Fiero and put one in there. I did, 345 friggen hp and 370ft tq and it STILL wouldn't beat my little 2.5 914-6.
One more vote for keeping it a -4 on that budget. If you absolutely have to have a fresh motor, go the 2056 route. Call Jake or McMark.
But seriously, if the motor runs fine, don't f*** around with the car. Just look at ebay to see the aftermath of budget conversions The http://www.renegadehybrids.com/ also has some lovely post-mortem photos (click on "Wall of Shame"). You say you want a street car only. Get a tune up. Maybe have the brake calipers rebuilt. Otherwise just drive
Honestly a nicely built 2056 with headers will improve the car signficantly and fit close to your budget. All the non Porsche stuff is crap unless you really spend lots of money to do the conversion properly. $5K wont get you there. If your willing to spend some money the Subi is a solid conversion. I dont like V8's in stockish street cars - V8 ruins dynamics of street cars unless you do tons of work to get weight out of the car and reinforce weak points.
I wouldnt mess with other options as they will easily triple your budget once your finished sorting everything out. I was very smug with my $6000 six turnkey conversion intially (Bought a $2000 used 2.4 liter six and paid somone to install), but then I wanted wider wheels, better suspension, better brakes, 5 lugs, etc. Then I wanted more power and spent another $8K rebuilding my six to a 2.5 liter racing motor. Still have less than $11K in my motor but I have spent equal amount on all the things it takes to enjoy extra power and weight of a six.
Be very weary of the hype around big bore T4's they are much more expensive then most will lead you to believe.
I have helped build and driven 2.4/6 (worth about $16K), 327 v8 (worth about $12k), had an orginal 914/6, and currently own a 215 v8 (worth about $6K) (which is my favorite). I would like to try an electric and a subaru conversion. I still want to improve my 215 v8, But its a great car for the money! You can go 35mph in 5th gear. Its just a very driveable car, and its a kick on the track. I keep looking at more modern cars trying to find one that I can modify into a all around fast car but I can't find one that I really like. Also I would have to find someone to buy my collection of 914's (9) & a ton of parts, and a bunch of 215 parts. It depends on what you want when you are done!!!!
I hope this helps!
Take Care
Bill
If you can afford an upgraded engine and conversion kit but can't afford to upgrade the suspension and brakes DON'T DO AN ENGINE CONVERSION! When I worked for Renegade Hybrids I would tell customers all the time that good brakes are the most important part of an engine conversion.
If you up your horsepower and don't compensate with upgraded brakes and suspension you really improve your chances of killing yourself.
A good engine conversion involves upgrading the whole car, not just the drivetrain.
Interesting you should bring this up right now. I bought this '73 about four years ago with the idea of a project car that would be a Sunday/Daily/Vacation just for fun car. I started attending the local swap meet and get togethers. Saw some nice 6 conversions and got the bug. Started collecting almost everything I needed for the conversion. I mean everything including an original rebuilt 0 mile 914-6 2.0 upgraded to a 2.2L motor and trans. (Yeah, Yeah I know baby motor w/ small HP). Idea was do the conversion and upgrade later. Well in the middle of this we moved and I didn't have the facilities to do the conversion. So I recently completed construction on my new garage/shop specifically for this project. I rolled the car in and jacked it up. All of a sudden I had an epiphany. I lost sight of the original goal. If I do the conversion with the limited spare time I have this thing will be out of commision for better than a year. I did some soul searching and came to the conclusion I needed to stick to original plan. Two weeks ago I pulled the motor and trans. Already have the trans back from the shop with a fresh rebuild and the 1.7L will be back as a 2.0L carbeurated, cammed, flywheel light etc. at the end of next week. Should be up and running in about a month. Cost, about 5K. You should be able to beat this price with a little work. Anyway I am having a blast with this project right now and I think I made the right choice. I just wasn't up for all the BS involved with the conversion. Afterall the real joy of these cars is the driving, isn't it?
I got lucky and found a real 6 less motor...no brainer...it got a 3.0L six. Had a '73 2.0....had a blast with it. If I would of converted it, would of saved up for a six too.
But...its really all about what "rings YOUR bell!" Personally....I love the sound of a chevy v-8....but I'm going to put it into my current project:
The hyabusa based V8 is the best.
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What 215 parts you have? Mines is running fine...just need to kill some rust and do the side shifter transplant....then mine will much more driveable...and anytime you want pics...this was done very well
Michael
Actually thought about a porsche v8.....too much hassle. Will build a sweet little 468 chevy for it. (It's not a drag hull....it's hull#3 of 5 made for GN class endurance racing).
But for the street/tract 914..............................."a flat 6 rules"!
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/dekman22/914splitter004.jpg
I agree with Grant, the only time to do a v8 is when your going to change the whole car.. Then its not really a "914" or a "porsche" its a hot rod racer.. And you cant even race it competitively in any classes!
For the budget, keep it clean, rebuild it with Jake Raby's stuff, get 140hp out of it, spend some money on the rest of the car and you'll be much happier than a cheap engine conversion (this includes porsche 6's).
However for the thread, I think an awesome engine for the 914 would be the VW or Audi 1.8L turbo with a GT28 turbo instead of a tiny K03.
Keep it in the family, give it a great sound, and keep it reliable as heck.
Or a suby..
Thats what I would have done in retrospect...
There is always this Subie NA 180 hp route.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270235323282&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123
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I think maybe we scared him off?
My vote, since your budget number doesn't allow for really any proper conversion, is to stay with a type IV. A 2056 would be more fun than you can probably imagine right now. Drive it and enjoy it while you build the 2056 up, then slap it in on weekend. Easy.
But don't bother with that until the brakes and suspension are up to snuff. That's the best way to spend your money.
I am more than pleased with my Ham/Raby 2270. Really makes the car come alive. Effortlessly pulls 6000rpm in 4th-great acceleration. 5th at 6000 should be just under 140--my speedo doesn't work. (TFFF)
Just as important are the big brakes and suspension mods-stopping is actually more important!
Overall,it makes the car deserving of the 916 body style and the "GT" moniker!
I have a supercharged inline 4 in my 914, its out of my wrecked vw corrado g60 and has the aftermarket lysholm supercharger on it. The motor fits in better than a VR ever would, but thats all it does for now, still haven't fired it up. Later in the summer it will run, but I've mostly been concentrating on the body work for now.
The only real advantage to going watercooled VW is having the B5 Passat, Audi tranny as an option. My motor weighs close to the same as my type 4 and only makes 200hp but if I swap on a 16 valve head than 300hp is possible.
If you've never heard a lysholm before you should search on youtube, they're pretty loud some would say annoying. I once got a ticket for impersonating an emergancy vehicle
Damn that lysholm supercharger sounds wicked! I want one! Pics?
the lysholm is very torquey like a v8, and instant, not like my friends cars who's turbos are sometimes peaky. Now that its in a car 1000 pounds less, I'm sure it'll be no slug. When it was in the corrado I was able to keep up with my friends 1.8t revoed scirocco, it might be tougher now that he's gone syncro and a big turbo.
I still am a fan of the v8 cars.
I have $12K total into my car, including the car, paint, engine, trans, wheels, everything. I have kept all the reciepts. Of course, I did alot of the work myself, which does help.
The engine driveline is a Chevy 302 DZ with a rebuilt stock trans with tall gears.
the 302 drives more like a Porsche, with the power up high.
The frame is strengthened with a Brad Mayer long kit.
Most of the parts that I bought were used, and I sold a ton of parts I didn't need to help fund the project.
The car is very well sorted and drives nicely, even on our Michigan roads. Its really fun to see the looks on the guys driving the Vipers and Vettes at the track when I go around them, or even the guy with the 454 Chevelle at the strip.
No, its not a show car, but a good looker that I really enjoy driving. It actually won the best dare to be different in the Hot Rod Homebuilt Heroes contest this year!
And, no kid, its not a Fiat!
Just my 2 cents.
Mark
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2363509080057582025fWXsqD
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As another V8 owner..though mine is only a 215....I like them too. Mine is the same weight as a 4 and has about 200+hp which will give you nice acceleration. You have done a great job on your car!! Looks great!!
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They are all nice, but i like mine.
Marty's is pretty sick also...
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I've seen that Black car. Chappy, yours is too much!
But I didn't see the V8 Porsche option in the voting list..
Thats because the word is still out on the existence of Aliens.
I'm a big fan of Mark's car and of the alien. Those are my two fav's of all time.
I want to know more about this:
It's GOOD mine is not listed, because $5k is very limiting or unrealistic. There are an exceptional few who can do most of the work, within a budget, and with high quality that just posted.
My Audi 2.7tt is still appropriate for my purpose and goal. Once I get it finished, I plan to do an all electric or series hybrid. Go Green!
With what I have seen, 914's are becoming a collectors car. So you'd be best to leave it stock. Go ahead and massage that 4cyl a bit, but leave things stock, like heat, muffler, trim, interior etc. You'll get a good return and more respect from other Porsche Owners for just leaving the as it came from the factory.
You think? I'm not seeing the same thing. If it was a sure thing you'd think somebody would be buying bunches of cars for the investment, but I can search ten Craig's List sites within a two hour's drive of the Bay Area and find a dozen "rust free" California cars from $1000 to $2500. That's no different than adjusted prices from ten years ago. I'd like to think it was getting better, but don't see it myself.
And getting "more" respect from 911 owners? More than what?
My thinking is that you've got a car that's fun, and that's why you got it, to have fun. If you wanted an investment you'd have bought a 356 and you wouldn"t drive it much, which is no fun. You don't have a 914 concours candidate if your car has ever been pranged, had rust or rust repair, a dealer air conditioner option, a six conversion, bad paint, an oil cooler or flares added, or even had the radio cut out boogered up to put in a DIN unit. If that's the case, and it is in 90 percent of the cars out there, then go ahead and have fun with your car. Investments are boring, no one I know has ever made a dime from hanging on to a 914, you didn't buy it for the investment anyway, and now it's the weekend, so HAVE FUN with your car! And I don't need to tell anyone that more horsepower, no matter how you get it, means more fun.
$5K = no /6 conversion.
Probably not any decent, long lived, conversion of any kind once ancillary equipment (brakes, radiators, clutch, oil coolers, exhaust, gauges, etc.) are factored into total costs.
I did my /6 conversion 20 years ago, performing all the labor myself except for machining.
Here's what it cost 20 years ago(1988):
'73.5 911T 2.4L/6 with 90K miles $2,500.00
Rebuild heads $265.96
911 muffler, stainless steel $free(included with engine)
Muffler tip, chrome $9.57
914-6 engine sheet metal $free(included with engine)
/6 engine mount, Becker Engr. $258.68
Motor mounts, etc. $229.55
oil tank, S.Machining $319.87
914-6 headers $266.56(no heater anymore )
Bosche alternator, '73 911 rebuild $117.65
Clutch, '69 911S $340.64
Permatune CD ignition $170.77
Oil cooler, '73 911 $448.06
Tachometer, '73 911 $104.88
Flywheel, '70 914-6 $402.10
Fuel pump, CIS $149.75
Fuel acumulator, '73 911T CIS $52.10
Fuel fitting Zinc plating $10.00
Gaskets, various $31.51
Pressure Fed Chain Tensioner kit $318.40
Sealants $31.51
Misc. nuts/bolts/etc $312.43
Special oil fitting, engine to tank, conn $95.14
Oil lines, etc. $821.18
Engine installed total = $7406.44
Side note #1:
If I had not replaced the /4 engine 20 years ago, I probably would not own a 914 today. The engine I replaced was a 2.0L/4 with carbs installed by PO. Smog illegal then as well as smog illegal today (a '73 914 is test exempt only, but not smog exempt). The fuel injected /6 passes smog easily , gets better MPG , and has 50 more HP .
Brake/axel upgrade (1991), I supplied all labor:
package deal, used parts $1100
Axels, '73 911S half shafts/CVs
Struts, '73 911S Koni
A Calipers, new F/R rotors, '83 911SC
Stub axels, 914-6
Koni front shock inserts, '73 911 $259.95
Brake pads, front Ferodo $30.19
6x15 Fuchs $500.00
Rear caliper spacer kit $145.64
Tires, Yokahama A008P P195/65x15R $422.00
F/R alignment $140
Alloy lug nuts, alloy hubcaps $122.43
Brakes/wheels/axel total = $2720.21
Side note #2:
I hated the Koni suspension! Was so stiff I found myself dodging shadows on the pavement! In 1995, I replaced the rear Konis with Bilsteins, and the entire front suspension with one out of a 1989 911 Carrera with Boge inserts. Still very firm suspension, but not jarringly so. Excellent for my street car 914.
Shocks, rear Bilstein $200.12
Front suspension, '89 Carrera $650.00
F/R alignment $140
SwayBar, '89 Carrera underbody $5.00 (a year later, hugh improvement!)
total = $995.12
Dispite the high costs, after 20 years, 200K miles, I am very happy with my engine swap, VERY HAPPY
Very well worth the $$$$$$
I just did this around 7 months ago, so let me show you that you can actually still have an advantage if you really want a conversion like I just did. First of all ,You will have more fun with more hp and better suspension that is for sure. Here is a thought.........Why not take that $5k, and find a conversion that has every thing already. If the car is beat, than take everything out, and apply it to the 914 you already have, sell those parts, and get some money back. This is exactly what I did. By the time I was done, I paid $5k for the conversion parts car, (however, I should add the conversion was sound in the beater, but the car was dead), sold my newly re-built 2.0 for $2600, seats for 150, and exaughst for 200 out of the original 914, so $5,000-$2950 =$2050. Now, I paid around $3000 for labor and new parts, so you figure, I just paid about $5-6 thousand dollars for a complete, conversion, and that is including some body reinforcements. The reason I did the calculation is so you can see how you can actually save money by selling your old parts. I was even able to take parts off of the beater that I needed for my car, and then sold it as a roller. All of those parts and parts I saved in the past and the roller sold for $400 (actually this was a good deal !!),so you can see I really saved even more money. You have to be patient, first of all. I didn't sell my roller and parts until my conversion was completely done. You just have to remember that at the end you get your money back, and if you are going to have someone do the labor for you, make sure you have a honest ,up-front deal, and communicate. Some of the money I saved from my parts went toward my phone bill, but you know what, I have not had any problems with my conversion, because I was constantly able to talk to my mechanic (Heeltoe914) , and he never once avoided me, and when he told me he was going to need more money, I had it ready, and would always be told in advance, so there were no problems. I know a lot of guys would say go to a shop only, but guys like Heeltoe that have a shop at home are plenty capable of doing the work just as well, but save you money. Just make sure you've got the rite guy !!!.....One more thing to add, just for the record....In the begining, I wish I had $5,000 dollars to spend. I saw the car I wanted, met with the seller, gave him a contract for a non-refundable $500 deposit, and told him to give me a few weeks to come up with the money. I sold my 92' sc Lexus and "borrowed"(He, He,He) some money from my wife's income taxes to get that $5000. So basically, I did about a $10,000 transaction, starting from broke !!!! If I did it, you can do it too, you just have to get your hustle on man !!! I don't mean to write up such a long post, but I wish someone would have told me what I am telling you, because I had just got through paying about $5000 re-building that slow 2.0 that everyone said I would enjoy....that money could have went straight toward my conversion, and maybe I would still have my lexus today
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Force fed Porsche flat six, the only way to fly.
Marty
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088304.html
vr6 with video
Pretty long install but sounds pretty hairy
Not the hot version but plenty of potential.
Not a 914 but a fiero.
I put an all aluminum Gen III LS6 in a 914 and did a hell of alot of other modifications to harness the power. It has 540HP and moved as fast or faster than most supercars. I sold it to a guy in NJ and now he's having all the fun with it (and trying to hang on to his driver's license).
It's absolutely true that buying somebody else's dream is the cheapest way to go. I did that with mine in '94 in San Francisco, as an unfinished 2.7L conversion. It was very well done by the PO and drivable, but not completed.
I finished it and then converted it to a 993 motor in '99. The addition of fuel cell and other racing stuff was done in 2002, but that was optional for a street car. The only thing I really needed for a street car was more air through the external oil cooler, which I did then as well.
The car is basically unchanged since then except normal maintenance, safety upgrades, and suspension tuning. Darned reliable ride that one... and generally quick enough to get me out of trouble faster than I got into it.
Doing the work myself saved gobs of dollars, but here's the point again...
Buy one that's already close to what you want.
I bought the '75 I have now a few years ago (3rd 914, owning 2 others many years ago). A very clean example, straight with very minimal rust. It was pretty much stock with the original 1.8, it even had the original exhaust with cat - except the po had switched the FI to 40 Webers.
I have always dreamt of doing a Porsche /6 conversion and thought this would finally be the canidate. Since the car drove well, I chose to collect brake and suspension parts for a 5 lug conversion before any decision would be made about the power plant. I was just finishing up collecting parts when the 1.8 became sick. Since it would make no sense to me to install all of these beautiful new parts into a car that was not running, I was faced with my decision. I had already spent several thousand dollars collecting parts and was not in the position to drop $10K more (minimum) to do the conversion I still dream of. I chose to go to Mark DiBernardi of Original Customs in Napa Valley for his 2056 (McMark 5K motor). I used the 40 IDF's (fully rebuilt) and the recommended Malory ignition with a module as well. I did everything at once - Motor swap with new stainless 2.0 exchangers, new Birch, new/refurbished 911/914/6 brake and suspension parts from Eric Shea, and all new shocks, struts and springs. 15 x 6j Fuchs refinished with brand new rubber, and even a new interior with a new sound system.... All for around $10K!
For $5K, I say go with a 2056. I have been running Marks motor for a year now and and am very pleased with it. Quite a difference from the stock 1.8 with low compression that was jetted and venturi'd way off!
I have the Kennedy kit and a Lexus motor in mine. It is a very large motor and has so far required extensive motor and chassis modifications. There is one of these conversions running in Atlanta but he has no firewall or targa bar! It is a great motor, all aluminum with 6 bolt mains and 32 valves!
Paul
I've seen Pauls car in the early stages of the conversion. I'll bet it really turns out good when its finished.
I've also seen the other Lexus 914 conversion and was impressed at how quiet the engine was. No mechanical noise at all.
Bob
Well, my opinion is biased.... Sort of....
I would go for the Suby conversion.
1 - It is fun
2 - It is lightweight
3 - It is a direct offspring of the original TIV
4 - It is fun
5 - It is dependable
6 - It gets great gas mileage
7 - It is fun
8 - MY CAR WON BEST OF SHOW at the Ventura Auto Fest Mid Engine Mania
9 - It is fun
10 - Did I mention it was fun?
The car is frickin awesome to drive. It won the best of show judged by my peers not just by me.
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Anyone make an AWD 914 yet?
I have an extra 2.0 914 motor you could put up front.
Here is a cool motor. I would love to see get to market.
http://www.revetec.com/
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I have an original 76' 4 2.0; a 3.0 6 and a duel turbo 8....The 6 was FAR more expensive to build because of all of the special parts involved....The 8 duel turbo is by far the quickest and fastest and the 2.0 is the most balanced and pleasurable to drive.
You might be able to swing an N/A Subaru swap for 5K if you can do the work yourself. 180HP should work nicely and the engines are cheap and won't eat the 901. You can also go the all Subaru route like I am doing on my car. Engine and trans $1500, axles $200, flanges $500, radiator + shifter + engine mounts $1500..... leaves you with $1300 for the other 'stuff' that you always need. Realistic budget should really be $7500 if you include fixing a lot of things that need fixing anyway (like brakes, shocks, gauges heat....)
One thing you didn't mention is if you need to pass any smog inspections.
If money is an issue at all then build a moderate size t-4 engine, carbed. use stock heat exchangers if you live anywhere cold. headers if you want.you will get it done sooner or later.
The 6 on the other hand can be real $$$ and although I feel it is the best power source, the project could be too many $$$$$$ and you might never be able to enjoy it in your life time.
Don't even think about chevy's,mazda or anything like that. I would not buy someone attempt at that and feel you would destroy the value of a great car.If that is what you want to do,buy a pinto.
Ill be doing another NEW conversion in the coming months.
Subaru 3.0 Six with hot cams i think and mounted just like the 914-6 with front bulkhead mount.
There is no best engine conversion, it's to subjective.
Why not do a little at a time? So many posts that I see for six conversions say that if you want to do it right, you have to have the suspension upgrades to go with it. A six conversion can be completed in the $5,500 if your patient and look for good deals. For example, I bought a 70T longhood off of a guy that had no idea what he purchased. It needed work but the body and engine were sound. The car cost me $4,000 plus another $1,500 in misc parts. I recentley sold the chassis and tranmission for $3,000. All that I have left to buy on my six conversion is the muffler. So, I'm into my project for $5,500. Do I plan on suspension upgrades? Absolutely, but that's next year and it's give me time to save money.
3.2 Motronic engine. Reach in turn the key, tons of torque, no idle jets to fool with, last forever in a 914.
Once we see the Cayenne turbo motors become a bit less expensive, then that will be the best choice IMHO
Rich
Here is a pretty one!
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"If money were no object"....
I've become fascinated with these smokin' little 2.8L engine; the H1V8. 400HP, 245ft/lb, 200lb. Here's the http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562069.htmif anyone's curious. Just a super cool and innovative engine.
can you provide more details of the 3.8 engine you have? how is the radiator and exhaust set up (any photos?) looks nice from what I see.
do tell more!
thanks
1000 ccs is not really considered a good motorcycle performance motor. It doesn't have enough torque. Torque is what you feel when you take off. If you can be happy taking a mile to get up to speed you will like a 1000 cc motor. Geo's go pretty good for a gas miser though. Kinda like the old diesel golfs. I always tried not to get stuck behind my coworker at a light in his no ac diesel golf. There was no chance of going the speed limit if you got behind him between lights.
" The Best Engine Conversion" for me would be the Dean Popopolus 4 cyl. 911 motor which produces 200 HP w/ 44 IDA webers or can be set up with EFI. The motoe weights 100 ilbs less than a stock 911 motor.
I would use EFI and twin turbos which would produce approx. 450 to 500 HP the Ultimate 914 GT Turbo
My idea is the more cylinders the more power cycles therefore the smoother the torque curve and the smoother the sound. The smaller the rotating parts the higher the rpm.
3.2 liter 6. Its without a doubt the BEST thing we've ever done to a 914. i LOVE driving Huey now!!!
I can't believe noone's mentioned the most obvious conversion.. the Rover/Buick 215 all-aluminum V8. Easy 200hp at no weight penalty and bolts up to the 901 tranny with a Kennedy adapter.
I'm in the final stages of that conversion and having said that, next time I do a teener I'm going with a built 2.0. I love the V8 and the sound is to die for, but WAAAAAAAY too much work/expense for the gain.
Tom
My son just got back from a awd chassis dyno in Arlington, Tx. His 04 sti made 425 hp at about 6700 in 4th gear. The subys have 20% minimum drivetrain loss at the wheel. The motor is a 2.5 bored to 100mm, bigger cams, bigger valves, bigger injectors, fmic, and cold air intake, with a 30r turbo with 26 lbs of boost on premium pump gas on a 98 ( about 2pm) degree day with water and meth injection. He tuned it conservitively because of the possibility of crummy gas at times. This was after a 2hr drive to Arlington. It was a dyno jet and it could be 6-10% higher than a mustang. He is going to try to get on a mustang in Austin but they were busy Friday.
His motor would be a great 914 motor with the suby tranny.
You didn't have "Leave it alone" on the poll, so I couldn't vote.
You guys are going to be sorry in the future. Ends any hope of collectability.
MO
Based on $5K budget:
1. Keep your eyes peeled for a good deal on a 2056 on this site... someone upgrading their 2056 to something more HP and more pricey.
2. Buy the 2056 for a fair price (under $5K, if you are lucky)
3. Spend the rest of your budget on brakes and dropping weight.
And run that thing!
How does keeping something stock in any way answer the posted question of what is the best conversion?
Kind of "off track" wouldn't you say? Probably would have lead to some random rant and a topic being closed or moved over in another section of this board.....
Anyone have any pics of that GEO motor (and radiator) stuffed into the 914 engine compartment?
why was this closed?
part of the answer to this question is whether or not the car needs to be registered and whether or not it needs to pass emissions. because in delaware all cars newer than 1968 must pass emissions - i am leaning stock suby 2.+ liter for mild and quite and good gas mileage - stock ecu and 914 trans for ease of install.
edit: 27july2011 - took my 914 with 305 sbc to a tuner and he got my emissions well below the limits ( i was pleasantly surprised and delighted ) and i passed emissions with ease - so i am firmly in the sbc camp.
jim
Subaru EZ36R its the 3.6 liter version of the subie ez30R.
Fully dynoed and runs perfect. All DBW, and active intake/exhaust timing fully dialed in.
305 HP. N/A!!
This engine is awesome!!
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Shameless plug
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=114326
Please excuse my Subaru ignorance, but are these engines dry sumped? Are there any oil starvation issues in the corners? Just curious...
I didn't see an option for voting "One that runs"
This is just about what I thought. Most people would like the Porsche to stay Porsche. The total of the other votes is very close to half of the votes for a Porsche conversion. Now I'm not saying that we should all only do Porsche motors as I am amazed at the weight and power of the Subbie. Tony's car, AKA VW weighed in at 1888 lbs before he moved his radiator to the front trunk. The only other car that I have weighed less is Carerror at 1600 Lbs. and She has a 3.0 Litter 6.
So It looks to me that the Porsche will win the poll no mater how long we run it. It is still a matter of taste and that is always up to you, the person who is going to build and drive the car. Me I voted Porsche because of the beautiful noise it makes.
Get a Rotrex C38/81 supercharger to top it off.
The Legacy guys have just started doing this.
Fun!
I've done the VW 1.8 (8v variant) w/ audi 5000 pistons/rods and a turbo. 300hp on the cheap. I probably had $300 into the engine itself. Kenedy adapter cast almost as much as the engine. The VR6 is difficult as it's almost impossible to find a transmission solution.
The R32 will bolt up to the audi FWD transmissions, but then you've got to machine half shaft adapters OR find an audi tranny with 100mm flanges and convert to 5 lug w/ 911 half shafts. Most audi trannys have larger flanges.
I've decided to go with an Audi 12v v6 this time around as it kinda fell into my lap. I scored the engine and tranny with about 69k miles on it for $250 with all accessories and electronics. The decision wasn't so much about this engine, but the platform. The bellhousing and motor mounts are in the same place as the Audi/Porsche V8s
maybe not for 5k but pretty close if all else is good.... you can get a screaming series 1 rotary 13b (ported as radically as you can handle) for less than 3k. stay away from the turbos and the price will be there. adapter plate from kennedy is going to be in the 4 - 5 hundred range. then you re in for radiator, oil cooler and all plumbing. you've got some wiring you have to do but all in all you will have an absolute screamer (260+ rwhp) for maybe 5k in parts. time is the issue. for reference.... i have around 10k in parts but i have a complete suspension in the car as well. but there is around 300 hours in the car.... 307 to be exact but that includes paint prep and paint and doing things as i want and not having to justify a bill for every minute so you have to figure partagas, avo and davidoff contemplation time.
Someone mentioned going with the 2056 -4 build. And a budget of $5,000.
For $5500, and a 2056, I would buy Tat2phreak's car. Get a fresh 2056, and the entire car comes with it.
EZ36R all day long!!!!
If your going to go water-cooled you might as well go for late model LS V8 like you can find in the newer Z06 Corvettes. I believe they are even dry sumped.
Staying air-cooled is a much better route because you don't have to cut up the front trunk for a cooling system. The 911 engine would be an obvious choice here, however, I really like the late model Corvair engines like those found in the Yenko Stingers. That's what I would like to see.
-Rob
The only Corvette engines that are dry sumped are the Z06 and ZR1.....
I thought one of the coolest things about a WRX conversion was that once I thrashed the current cheapo Craigslist engine into a no longer reciprocating aluminum lump it would be easy to just plug in another used replacement engine. And cheap, half the price of the cheapest Raby engine kit. But we can't seem to break the thing, and we've taken turns trying. I'm impressed. Maybe the 914's lighter weight is easier on it, I don't know, but am definitely not complaining.
Not listed in the options, but I'm going with a Honda 1.5 turbo charged with the Honda 5 speed tranny in my heavily cut up and customized 914. I'm shooting for a good solid 250 HP and about or less weight as the stock drivetrain.....with the Honda cooling system I'll be able to keep the rad in the back.
The best engine conversion is one that runs.
Buick aluminum v8 from skylark, only 10 lbs heavier than the stock engine, 20 mpg, 200 hp, very streetable, great daily driver. Triumph tr8, and land rover agree!!
not listed byt the new DIESEL subaru with the 6 speed and cable shift.
280foot lbs of tork and super milage, lower center of gravity !!
There is a reason Porsche is adding a diesel to there lineup!!
jcl
best is defined by the end users needs. best for me is not best for you.
I have a 76 914 and sat on the engine upgrade limbo for almost a year before running my numbers and using common sense... a six conversion needs many parts, a lot a labor plus the engine, a subi conversion gets expensive if you wan it done right, all engine swaps need a suspension and brake upgrade.
I decided to keep the type 4 and added an 82mm crank for $425, racing flywheel for $275, new light weight forged 94mm pistons, rings and H beam rods for $500, heads rebuild with new valves and guides $600, new FI performance Webcam camshaft with lifters $250, machine work on case for new stroke and more power $250, powder coating all sheet metal, fan, fan housing and intake runners $210, new custom fuel rails$200, custom made cold air intake $250.
The engine will be a 2270 running with the stock 2.0L fuel injection... we estimate 140hp and a lot of torque... all that for less than $2500. If you need more power you can add a set of 44 webbers and a racing cam from web cam and you can hit 150hp + for about $600 dollars.
If you want a six go with a 3.2 lots of torque and they are a blast to drive.
For my favorite the chevy motors are so much fun you won't be able to get the smile off of your face.
Craig at camp
if money were no object...I just be putting a GT2 in the garage...but for the sake of conversation...#1 choice would be to put a flat 6 turbo in it. #2 choice (some what economical) put a built LS1 in.
Of course, the engine upgrade means a total upgrade of suspension and brakes...the biggest brakes you can bolt on.
I Have a 2.0 its so much fun , i,am leave it alone. I just put tires on it last week. If i want more power i would buy a 911 or something ease. just my thinging ..
I'd vote for a Porsche 6 air cooled motor, which makes a great street car and driver, but not sure you could do it for $5K.
Another option that no one has mentioned is converting over to water but putting in a boxster motor and transmission. You can find these pretty cheap these days and they are will get you 185hp to the rear wheels. That would be a fun driver.
Actually it would be fun to figure out how to put an entire boxster rear assembly in a 914.
It's been done, but it's real tight. Heads get awfull close to the longs. At only 185hp, the vw 1.8t or a turbo ABA 16v seems easier. 'Course I'd say that though, I'm putting 2 of them in mine
I like the idea of modern engine and tranny....
some day i would like to do a boxster tranny, with either a VW 1.8t or VW 1.9TDI.
im a diesel guy... tourqe!!!!
and W12 would be soooo sweet. but not a comon engine for parts as a driver. and a W12 in a golf? haha, and way cool!
What is the LIGHTEST engine vs. h/p conversion?
I have wanted to do a 914 engine conversion for almost 20 years, but everytime I do the math it just doesnt work out to do it properly. Assuming you spend 2000.00 on a good used motor LSV8, by the time you modify the harness and ecu another 700.00 so 2700.00 for just the engine. Renegade kit is now 2600.00 trans modifty another 2500.00 cooling another 1000.00. Axles 600.00 brakes, springs and shock upgrade another 700.00. You can easily be in the 10-11k range not including the car, any paint and body work that you do is additional.
Raby engines are great but should be for 11-12k. I would rather have a v8.
Suby conversion looks good. Reasonable prices stock tranny and axles can be retained. The fuel injection wiring seems to be the biggesst hurdle. An aftermarket ecu cost 2000.00 and then you have to tune it. There may be someone that sells modified harness and stuck ecu for easy hook up, but I havent found them yet.
So what Im looking at doing is a Honda F22c motor from the S2000. Its 2" shorther than the v8 you can retain the AC pump, water pump all in stock location. Its 1/2 taller than the v8. It all aluminum and weighs about 260lbs. I use these engine in my 7 replica and we beat on them at the track and they just keep going (www.wcmultralite.com). I already know how to wire them retaining the factory ecu. They make 240hp and 162 ftlb 8500 rpm smooth motors with vtec. Im thinking this combo would make a great driver no weight gain, fuel injection, good mileage, reliable, no oil leaks, heat and AC and triple the stock HP.
Engine can be found for 2200.00, Kennedy makes the adapter 550.00. 1000.00 for cooling. Brake and suspension upgrades another 1500.00 should make for a fun car. Another 500.00 for some odds and ends I think you could drive a fun fast car for 5500-6000k range.
i'd really like to stuff a 6 in her - but my wife always has a headache : )
so i but a sbc v8 in my 1972 914.
but these cars are like potato chips - can't stop at one.
my 1975 will be suby engine/suby trans.
jim
v8 conversion cost...
renegade engine and cooling kit and hd starter $3250
crate engine $3000
throttle cable from terry cables $50
carb fuel pump $100
dr evil trans rebuilt keeping stock gears $500
upsize cvs/flanges/axles to 108mm $1000
+ install labor cost
Here is the winner..hands down. Yea, I know it's not a 914, but..well...it is very unique...and mid engined.
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/02/ill-advised-engine-swap-of-the-week-aircraft-radial-in-toyota-mr2/
http://jalopnik.com/5788391/toyota-mr2-powered-by-radial-airplane-engine-lives
Revetec
I haven't looked at this site in a year or so but It was a top pick.
I will have to look back into what they have been up to.
http://www.revetec.com/slideshow4.htm
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IMHO...just figure out what you want and slowly buy the parts for it... Like making payments. You can always sell the parts later if you need to. Putting a six in a 914 adds alot of value to it.
Its a shame that Porsche gave up on 914-6's so easily, they are such a great car! I was on the track once with a 911 that had my same motor in it, totally blew his doors off...Its no wonder why the real race cars are mid engine.
I do agree however that a subie motor sounds like a good alternative to the hi priced porsche six.
What, no room for an electric conversion or even 'other?'
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