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Posted by: computers4kids May 28 2008, 10:21 AM

I'm installing a chevy 305 with a renegage kit and I have a few questions.

There seems to be plenty of room to leave the battery tray in the OEM position, why do many move the location to the trunk?

I have the Renegade wiring harness but no diagram...can someone send me a copy?

The exhaust is headers with twin turbo exhaust. Do you remove the stock exhaust heat sheild...it fits either way. Is it good to leave it or remove it?

Where do you source your power for the front 'dual fan radiator?' From what I have read it needs to be powered all the time, not switched. Is there a source to tap into in the front trunk or do you run a dedicated line...if so how heavy?

I would really love to see pictures of your V-8 914 front end so see what kind of setup you did for valance and cutting the bumper! I'm good on the fender cuts.

Stupid Question: The renegade recommends using #8 1/2 metal screws to attach the brackets that hold the coolant hoses to the bottom of the car. It mentions to be careful not to puncture the fuel lines in the tunnel. How can you tell if your'e going to hit a fuel line or not? ...other than just hoping and guessing?

Sorry for all the questions...
Mark
Edited.....thought I would add some before and a after picture since this thread has evolved into a v-8 install/restore/modify thread. The story begins....




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Posted by: michaelt55 May 28 2008, 10:50 AM

Mark;
Heres a photo of my radiator setup... I have the 916 front so I just use the cutout to get my air. I also have my fluid lines hard plumbed...no clearance issues..


Michael


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Posted by: andys May 28 2008, 10:55 AM

Mark,

If your stock headers have heat shields, I would recommend you keep them. Managing the heat in the engine bay of a V8 914 is a wise idea, and you may as well take advantage of the oportunity in your case.

Andys

Posted by: plymouth37 May 28 2008, 11:06 AM

When I worked at Renegade I used rivets to attach the brackets, to ensure that I would not nick the fuel lines I used a drill bit with a drill stop so the bit could not drill farther than it needed to.



I have seen a few V-8 cars with batteries in the stock location with no problem, just make sure your battery tray is solid. Most people move theirs to the trunk because there battery tray is rotted or because they want to lower their cars center of gravity.
If you do move your battery to the front trunk you will have no problem finding a power source for your radiator fans.

Posted by: marks914 May 28 2008, 12:00 PM

Here is how I did my front trunk.
Why did I move my battery? I don't know, i wish I had left it in the engine compartment. Its the first thing I did on the car. You need to wire the fans with a relay so that you do not overload the sender for the fans. I used a JC whitney adjustable fan. Also went with a custom $275 dual pass radiator done by a local shop, worksd great!
I also ran hard lines wherever I could

Mark

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2849680240057582025qqIHBM

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2033403670057582025KurEHX

Posted by: dbgriffith75 May 28 2008, 02:26 PM

This just blows my mind...

I mean, I understand if it comes outta the factory w/ a v8; but to actually swap a 4 cyl for a v8... how it's even possible is beyond me. There's barely room in the engine compartment w/ a 4 cyl... cramming in a v8 has got to be a squeeze!

Is there a lot of butchering that has to be done? I can't see it happening w/out at least some being required... unless you put it in sideways maybe??

Posted by: plymouth37 May 28 2008, 02:38 PM

Just a small notch needs to be cut in the rear firewall to clear bigger distributers.
A lot more cutting is needed to install the radiator than the V-8 engine itself.

This is what 500HP looks like...

Posted by: cobra94563 May 28 2008, 02:44 PM

Stock location is fine if tray is solid.
Something to consider if you move it for weight reasons. I put the battery in front, thinking that I would move the weight forward and lower.
Ran the lines, didn't plan everything out - spare tire doesn't quite fit in front and now carry that weight in the trunk (...fix it later..).

Posted by: marks914 May 28 2008, 09:01 PM

Fits and sometimes looks like it belongs there, sure makes for a fun, easy to maintain car, 30,000 miles and counting.

Mark

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2363509080057582025fWXsqD

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2746009050057582025YJBsqk

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2187828940057582025rdhcEg

Posted by: dbgriffith75 May 29 2008, 08:31 AM

I don't know about easy to maintain... don't get me wrong, I'm very familiar w/ the old V8's- drove an old stepside chevy for years with enough room under the hood to hide one, mebbe two dead bodies if I needed to. Yes they're easy to maintain.... but in that amount of space? Are joo sure?

Posted by: computers4kids May 29 2008, 08:41 AM

There is more room to work on a chevy v-8 than there is on a porsche 4 cylinder motor by far...actually the fit is quite amazing.

Posted by: computers4kids May 29 2008, 08:57 AM

I made a lot of progress yesterday. I made all the cuts in the front trunk for the dual fan radiator and exhaust holes, the cut for the larger dizzy, removed the proportional valve and installed a tee, hung all four Renegade motor mounts, installed the rear konis with 200lb springs, prepped the engine compartment. That took longer than I hoped. Next step, bolt up one of my sideshifters to the chevy 305 and drop it in. I also picked up from a local trunk company all the green striped hose and clamps for the cooling. I have to go back to work for a rest, then attack it agan.



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Posted by: dakotaewing May 29 2008, 08:59 AM

Here are some pics I have of various cars...


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Posted by: wes42 May 29 2008, 09:21 AM

I just saw your thread.....Good Luck with your installation, You will love it!

And as for everyone who thinks it is a tight fit...Well, in some places it is, but mostly it goes in just fine. Surprisingly the big stuff goes right in, it's all the little things that will eat up your time and money.

There are lots of things to learn along the way, and it will be a love/hate relationship for awhile, but once you get the bugs all out.....Well, you'll just be grinning every time you drive it!

Watch out for my mistake....Keep the HP to less than 300!! I hate having to modulate the power with my right foot. This is like having a shifter kart for the street.

Oh.....and have you given ant thought to the tranny and higher ratios? If you haven't, you will. Don't worry, you really can mod it yourself.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/131811953jvkZCJ

Wes

Posted by: wes42 May 29 2008, 09:29 AM

Posted by: wes42 May 29 2008, 09:31 AM

Posted by: dakotaewing May 29 2008, 09:37 AM

MAS


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Posted by: michaelt55 May 29 2008, 10:47 AM

HEY!! that's my car!!

Posted by: plymouth37 May 29 2008, 11:48 AM

Here is my front end. With Renegades lower valence.

Posted by: michaelt55 May 29 2008, 12:47 PM

Just a question...are those jackstands sitting on coaster dollies? Be careful it does not fall on you........ stationary jackstands are one thing...when they become a rolling jackstand..I dunno...scary!

Posted by: jimkelly May 29 2008, 04:57 PM

throttle cables - what are you guys using - stock or custom?

how are you routing it?

i am stuggling with this.

Jim


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Posted by: marks914 May 29 2008, 05:15 PM

Here is mine, an extended terry cable, it came with the attachment to the bellcrank as well. Mine is 18" longer, but you could get away with 12"
Mark

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2690622020057582025jmDHTQ

Posted by: cobra94563 May 29 2008, 07:11 PM

I currently using the STOCK throttle cable pulling up the passenger side with a holley running backwards.
I tried a edelbrock, as you have, and also used the stock cable on the driver side and a plate attached to the throttle lever, and pulled from the low side of the acrb. I took the carb off to rebuild it, so no pics available. (didn't seem smooth, but I didn't get a chance to play with the spring tension.)
If I ever have to buy a new cable, i'll probably get a custom.

Posted by: computers4kids May 29 2008, 11:38 PM

Well, I came home tonight after work and felt like turning a wrench so I headed for the garage. I went ahead and bolted a sideshifter up to the chevy v-8. I was glad to see once I had pulled the tailshifter which was on there, I saw the a new 9 inch two stage Sachs clutch...yes, the PO had purchased the upgrade clutch package.

Things were moving along, so I figured I would try to see how the motor was going to fit. That was easier than installing a 4! I feel like I'm making progress...the motor is now bolted in place and clearances are good...by pulleys, sides, and the lid will close. I will have to cut the brace on the lid. Anyway, that's enough for today.

Oh...I did notice that the housing that bolts to the water pump was not tight and on closer inspection was just loosely attached with no gasket. Will I find that gasket at FLAPS?...or do I need to source it from Renegade. I guess I could make one as well.


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Posted by: plymouth37 May 29 2008, 11:50 PM

If I remember correctly the gasket you need is off of a 70's big block V-8 Chrysler water pump. That should at least get you close.

Posted by: jmmotorsports May 30 2008, 08:51 AM

The gasket should be a Fel-Pro 11730

Jerry

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 May 30 2008, 02:05 PM

The stock cable works fine if mounted correct. I did make the cable mount alot higher in order to open the carb all the way.

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 1 2008, 10:04 AM

More progress...installed exhaust, prepped the front trunk and installed the radiator. I pulled the valve cover for fun to take a peek...brand new built 305 with roller rockers to boot. Today, I hope to run the coolant lines and reinstall the gas tank.



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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 2 2008, 12:45 AM

After cooking breakfast and some family time...I headed for the garage. Today I ran all the coolant lines under the car, hung the coolant resevoir can, a overflow jug, installed the gas tank and put the front end stuff back together.

I going to need some help on the cutting of the front bumper. I have a very nice early bumper with good chrome...will a plasma cutter cut an opening without screwing up the bumper? I want to put somekind of grill in the opening?? I see renegade offers a spoiler, still looking for options.

I will also need to either cut or buy a dual opening rear valance. OK...enough babble, here's some pics.



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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 2 2008, 12:46 AM

radiator lines & front trunk compartment (gas tank, etc)


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Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 2 2008, 12:55 AM

which one of the cars in your signature is that? nice progress. narrow body car right? what a sleeper!!! haha.

k

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 2 2008, 01:15 AM

It's the 75 that I stripped down and now is primer. Was going to put Jamie's motor in, but decided to go to the darkside instead. No flairs, atleast not right now. Should be a kick to drive. It will have a built, high reving 305 that should push 300 hp...we'll see.

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 2 2008, 01:19 AM

does your engine require premium fuel? nice to have a big parts stash to gleen the nice stuff from isn't it. 'like money in the bank honey'

k

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 2 2008, 08:21 AM

It will run on regular gas. Good parts are like gold, one of the few things that our economic slow down hasn't effected. Although, I know I will regret selling those 2ltr stainless...they look like they're almost new.

Funny thing about working on this project now, I acutually have to use some of my american tools...that was weird the first time I had to reach for a 9/16th wrench instead of a 13mm. I guess that's part of the darkside.

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 5 2008, 09:03 AM

Moving along...
Took all the brakes off and getting ready to replace all the rotors, pads and bearings. Probably going to put BMW calipers on the front for now.

I'm ready to cut my front bumper...ouch, it's really too nice to cut (early). I lookiing for tips and tricks for cutting the bumper hole and adding a grill to it. I've seen a few out there....how did you do it?

It's also time to lengthen the sideshifter rod. I've read about ideas of adding 1/1/4 inch up to 2 inches in length depending on your end goal. I'm not to sure if just some length is going to work for me. My oil pan is not the stock shape. It's some special pan that the PO had installed when the motor was built. It's shallower and has a wider girth...which may protrude too much for the curve of the rod????
I'll post a picture...it's a bit dark...I'll replace later with a better one.


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Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2008, 09:47 AM

Don't ruin a nice early front bumper! Find another used one better suited to cut on. You cut my bumper I'll kill you ! No seriously I would try to find another bumper to modify. Those early ones are hard to find in that shape.

If you really want to do something brake wise you need to go 5-lug. That is a pretty easy swap & gives you more brake options! You also have a much larger Wheel base to choose from

As far as extending your rod I get a bunch of emails in my spam everyday about this. I can forward you some f that wil help

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 9 2008, 05:52 PM

OK...smartass, I did lengthen my rod yesterday, without the help of magic pills. I cut the the rod on the straight section, threaded a good chunk of "all thread" which fit nicely. Adjusted length to be 1 /1/4 inch longer, checked to make sure fit good and then welded it into place. My wife is getting use to her new yard art...had to paint it!

Oh yeah, I put those beautiful early chrome bumpers on my 74 driver, removing the painted ones...which I liked, but will have no problem cutting on for the v-8 project.

Also fabbed a nice throttle bracket...getting closer.

And, replaced all the rotors, pads, and installed new stainless lines. I might drive it a bit to determine how radical or not I need to go with the brakes etc.


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Posted by: JRust Jun 9 2008, 09:53 PM

Man I forgot all about my smart ass post! LMAO Reading it tonight

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 10 2008, 09:26 PM

A little more progress today...the focus was bumper updates or should I say "bumper backdate."
I drilled the appropriate holes for the early bumpers (front and rear). I drilled and mounted early fog lights. Using Engman's late bumper block-offs (another great member product) I capped the late bumper shock holes. The engman block-off plates were designed for the fronts, but I made them work on the back holels has well. I then mounted my 74 bumpers on the car to check for fit...yes. When I get around to it...I'll pull the bumpers back off and weld-up the titty holes. Got luck today...everything went right.

The front bumper still also needs to be modified for air flow...haven't decided what kind of opening I want to make...or the size of the opening. I've been looking and there's quite a variety out there. I'm really not sure how small I can go and still have efficient cooling here in the hot valley.
I really like the last picture's breather opening...but looks pretty small compared to others.


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Posted by: JRust Jun 10 2008, 10:19 PM

Looking good Mark! What color are you planning on painting it?

Making progress on mine too. Made a slight miscalculation on my clutch (needed a 200mm not a 215). Ended up ordering a new PP & clutch from Kennedy. Should be here thursday. Then I just need to put my tranny in & I am good to go. Oh & bleed my brakes

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jun 11 2008, 01:18 AM

Lots of great pictures, I have a Rod Simpsin kit and the Cooling lines are run thru the rocker panels. When you mount the lines under the car, and come across a speed bump, the first thing to hit is the lines. Yes, with the battery in the front trunk you will have a solid source of voltage for the fans. Your engine compartment and battery tray looks solid, if you keep the battery in the engine compartment I would run no less than #10 and possibly #8 stranded copper.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jun 11 2008, 01:31 AM

I re-ran the factory cable from two tight turns in front of the engine to sweep under the passenger side header and come up behind the engine. I ordered a linkage kit from Dale Witch on Ebay to make a custon linkage. take a look at the picts. The cable pulls from the passengerside and connects to the drivers side thru the rod and Heim joints.

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Jun 11 2008, 07:41 AM

This is my favorite V8 conversion and it shows that anything is possible!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=7725&hl=alien+build

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 11 2008, 08:33 AM

Tony, thanks for chiming-in...I love fresh ideas. Appreciate the tips on wiring and that's quite an amazing linkage setup you have going. I am going to leave the battery in the engine compartment. After looking at a lot of conversions, I went ahead and ran the lines under the car...if you have a picture of your rockers with the lines running through them I would love to take a gander.

As far as the carb linkage, Renegade sold me a bracket...which didn't fit my manifold for some reason (holes on bracket a tad narrower...too much to slot). Anyway, I came-up the driver's firewall, fabbed the bracket, and used the cable set off a FI throttle body and it seems to work real well...will see.


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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 11 2008, 10:23 PM

Today I started installing the Renegade wiring harness that came with the kit. Wiring is not my strong suit and I have four questons. The firs picture is an overview of the wiring harness and where the questions are located. The following four pictures each represent one of the questions. Hopefully this makes sense...


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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 11 2008, 10:23 PM

last question


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Posted by: turboman808 Jun 12 2008, 12:24 AM

Oh man that is so sick.

Posted by: cobra94563 Jun 12 2008, 01:05 AM

your progress is much faster That I ever got things done. :

comment on your throttle cable setup...
The cable pivot pulls from the 6 oclock position and ends at approximately the 8:30 position. I noticed when I had that, my cable did not pull the all the way open. The begining and ending position was not in line with the cable path. I'm not sure you will have that problem, but if you do, 2 (of several possible) solutions - angle the cable up, like the picture of big kat's setup, or add plate on the throttle lever to move the cable attachment to the 4-5 o'clock position, and it will pull level to full open at the 7 o'clock position

Sorry,no pics on my setup (I when back to holley setup.)

Thanks for keeping up the progress updates!

Posted by: JRust Jun 12 2008, 02:34 PM

Mark is kind of like diaria with his car. You hold off working on it then it all kind of explodes SO it sits there for a few days & then boom! He gets a bunch done

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 12 2008, 03:20 PM

got a custom cable from terry cable - 18 inches longer than stock - got almost all my throttle range now - still need to install a swivel type linkage at the carb.


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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 18 2008, 08:53 AM

The latest...
I removed the support brace from the engine lid and slotted the brackets for easy on/off installation. I also had to trim the ring part of the air cleaner to bring the air cleaner down just a tad. It all fits nicely when I close the lid.




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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 18 2008, 08:55 AM

In the engine compartment I added a wide mesh steel grate over the exhaust ports...not really necessary, but to me it looks more finished. Also re-installed all the headight stuff.




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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 18 2008, 08:59 AM

The steel bumpers were off my 74, so I went ahead and welded all the holes for the bumper tits. I also cut the front bumper and installed a grate....it will do for now, I'm not sure what my final product will look like once the car is painted.



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Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 18 2008, 09:06 AM

it'll look swell. that's one slick carb throttle linkage.

k

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 20 2008, 08:26 AM

Well, the saga continues...
Brakes are all bled and hard as a rock..had to swap out one of the calipers because it had a pinhole in the piston boot.

I'm very close to starting the engine for the first time. I went ahead and added two mechanical gauges to the engine (water and oil) since my Ghetty dash gauges are getting a v-8 tuneup from Mark914.

The motor cranked for the first time yesterday. Fuel pump isn't turning on so I have to chase that issue down and I've got to figure out how to at least static time the engine...you can't see the timing marks. I've heard there is a trick to adding a hole in the trunk somewhere above the tranny inspection hole and being able to find TDC from there.

There is something very un-natural about adding coolant in the engine bay of a 914...just as wierd to see you have a water dripping from your Porsche.. Easily fixed, but still very wierd!!


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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 21 2008, 11:47 AM

The previous owner of my project car is/was a bit crafty. After chasing down the wires trying to see why the fuel pump was powering up, I discovered where the PO had installed a hidden sswitch under the dash that breaks the fuel pump circuit...I hadn't recognized it before becuase the switch part hadn't been installed yet...the wire had been cut and connectors had been added.

It lives....after some small diversions, the 305 V-8 roared to life for the first time. The first thought that came to me was "OH MY...., What have I created?" This should be a kick to drive.

Timing: I have to set the timing and I'm stuck. I don't want to just set the timing by ear...no timing marks visible that I can see. Any suggestions? I can figure out when I'm close to TDC via rockers and compression stroke, but that still doesn't help when there are no marks visible. Looking for ideas?

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 21 2008, 02:17 PM

make sure your brakes work - stock or 911 - make sure they work well - good pads, good rotors, no dragging, no air in lines - as you are gonna want that thing to stop. jim

Posted by: JRust Jun 21 2008, 02:32 PM

Just pull the drivtrain & time it out of the car! You got the skills & you can figure out the timing marks for next time. A bit of work but heck your used to pulling motors

Posted by: LvSteveH Jun 21 2008, 03:41 PM

I agree, don't time it by ear.

If you use a piston stop you can establish perfect TDC and mark it under the car. I've marked the balancer (on the bottom) and the flywheel via the hole in the bottom of the trans and either works fine. A timing light with an advance dial makes it easier.

It's annoying to time it under the car, but it works.

To make a piston stop you can take the center out of a spark plug and weld in a bolt with the head cut off. Then round the end so it doesn't damage the piston. You can determine the length with the engine close to TDC then check the depth of the piston through the hole. It will get you pretty close.

Basically you want the length to be just long enough to mark a spot on one side of TDC where the engine won't turn any more. Then spin the engine all the way around and mark the other side of TDC. The center between those two marks will be TDC. Just be careful not to slam the piston into the stop, rotate it slowly.

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 21 2008, 05:48 PM

Absolutely. New rotors, bearings, new pads, new fluid, and stainless lines. Brakes have been adjusted and pedal is good and hard. The calipers appear to be in good working order and the piston seals look good...as well as the MC. I figued I'd get it on the road to see how well things work, then decide what upgrades to the braking system will be needed.

Stopping is important

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 21 2008, 05:51 PM

I can't believe I didn't think about making a mark on the flywheel BEFORE I put the engine in. Hopefully I won't have to pull the motor for a while. Jamie...you should hear this thing...unbelievable!

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 21 2008, 06:09 PM

Thanks...I'm pretty sure I follow your line of thinking. Along that line of thinking, I wonder if this would also work.

Connect my cylinder leakage kit up to #1 and find either side of TDC on the compression stroke. Turn engine one way leakage out of carb (watch meter) intake opens. Turn the other direction...leakage out exhaust (watch meter( exhaust valve opens. Make a mark for both sides of TDC as you mentioned. Divide in half=TDC.

Another option: I could probably watch the valves open and close (#1), mark both sides of TDC and divide in half.

What do you think...am I on the right track?

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jun 21 2008, 10:13 PM

<What do you think...am I on the right track?>

All of our V8 engines are setup differently, and most have been internally modded so one engine is different from all others. That includes timing.


there's another way.
If your engine is pinging you should retard your timing immediately.
If your engine isn't pinging under full throttle, you can add some advance. I do it in very small steps until I hear a little, then retard back one or two degrees. Now I get no ping under full throttle and maximum power for the given engine setup. Once you've completed that step you can look at your mechanical ignition advance curve and see where the ping was in conjunction with the vacuum advance and adjust accordingly to optimize power across most driving situations. Daily driver or lead foot.... =)

Clear as mud, right?

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jun 21 2008, 10:18 PM

applicable thread...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72403&hl=pinging++advance++retard

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 22 2008, 12:14 AM

Great read...sounds like I have a lot to bone-up on to get the motor tuned to its powerband. For starters, I need to find and make a mark for TDC that I can see and I do have a variable timing light so I'll be able to see soon enough what is going on.

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 22 2008, 02:39 PM

The car can now be timed from the driver's wheel well.
How:
Using the driver's side heater cable tube which is no longer used in the conversion I bent it up and toward the engine balancer. I then took a white screw ancor and ground the end down so it would fit in the end of the heater tube with the pointed end right next to and in front of the balancer. I then found TDC and placed some white paint at the end of my new timing pointer representing when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. Now, using my adjustable timing, I can dial in a curve and point on the underside of the driver's fender well and time the engine. Actually works pretty good.

Went ahead and adjusted initial timing without vaccumm advance to 9 degrees at 850 rpm. The engine actually is running and starting pretty good.

This weekend, I also stripped the side rockers and the front valance, did any body work necessary and primed them...went ahead and fitted the front spoiler to make sure all fit correctly...I had updated from 75 bumpers.

Here's a quetion: When the motor gets to about 185 the two fans automatically come on. Instead of having both of them come on at 185, what about having just one come on at 185 and place a second sender in the radiator that activates the other fan to only come on say at 200 (or whatever)???? Seems like having both come on at once is overkill.


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Posted by: computers4kids Jun 29 2008, 11:38 PM

More progress...
Today, I painted the interior "marathon blue" along with the inside of the doors. I went with single stage on the inside. The outside will be going the same color but base coat, clear coat.

Now I can start putting the interior back in now...acutally looks like its coming together.

Took off the headers because the paint that came on them was not so great and big hunks flaked off when I first started the motor. I thought some paint stripper would take the rest off quickly...I was WRONG. After several coats of stripper only some of it came off. More work than expected.

As soon as I get my gauges back from being re-calibrated...in goes the Ghetty dash.






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Posted by: computers4kids Jul 2 2008, 11:21 PM

I've begun installing the interior of the car. And as usual, the targa rear pad was a pita--getting the two 10mm latch bolts and the little screws for hold the bracket plates back on was a joy.

Installed...
rear window, backpad, carpet, seats, seat belts and various interior pieces. I also got started on the Ghetty dash. Gauges should be here right after the holiday (July 4th).

Lots still to do...all that little stuff sure eats-up time. The hardest part for this project is finding all the correct bolts and screws. When I bought this car the interior had already been torn out and many parts missing. I'm finally to a point now that I actually know what parts need to be acquired.




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Posted by: JRust Jul 3 2008, 01:16 AM

Looking good Mark! I got your air cleaner out yesterday UPS. Not sure if it will make it tommorow or not. With the 4th we will see when it makes it.

Still hoping things will change & you will make the trip for WCR

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 4 2008, 12:16 AM

Doors went back on today...alignment was a piece of cake thanks to the club tip of drilling a small hole in the hinge through the body before pulling the doors.

Interior is just about done. The dash is the big one left and then add a windshield seal.

Looks like I may have to make my own rear valance...really wanted the wide early one found on 70 and 71 cars...of course I'll have to do some alteration to the oem hole and add another.




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Posted by: Dr. Roger Jul 4 2008, 12:31 AM

Momentum is building. the end is in sight.

Some guys double up on the throttle return springs. Just a heads up.


Roger

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 4 2008, 01:24 AM

Hey Roger...Yeah, I'm starting to see the finish line...I want to take it for a . Other than running it in the garage, I don't even know how the trans is going to do or ? I want to make sure she's ship worthy before I paint the outside.

Posted by: JRust Jul 4 2008, 01:49 AM

I've got a rear valance that would work. It is on my 74 2.0 car. I'll add the picture I have. You can have it free if you come & take it off It is some aftermarket valance but is in great shape. Not the best picture of it but I can take more if you want.

Huh Come to WCR & get a free Valance. I do really need that to finish my car I guess I will have to go after all


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Posted by: computers4kids Jul 4 2008, 12:30 PM

OK

Posted by: type47fan Jul 5 2008, 12:30 AM

Lookin' good, Mark.

I modified a '72 valance years ago for an ANSA exhaust and am now using it for my V8 conversion. You're almost there!


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Posted by: computers4kids Jul 7 2008, 06:18 PM

Let's see...
Installed the rest of interior like the door panels, rear view mirror and restored all the latches, liner, rubbers and chrome on the targa lid. Double springs for the carb per suggestion and started to add some BLING to the engine compartment. Still can't decide what valve covers to put on it that will compliment the new air cleaner.

I'm also toying with the idea of making my lid into a double grill...still not sure. The lid already is quite a bit more flimsy without the center support...can't imagine what it would be like if I altered the other side.

Will be able to pickup the deep rear valance from my friend Jamie, do a lttle customizing to the exhaust pipes and on it will go. Even went to the DMV and took the car off a non-op and made it all legal.

Didn't get too much done over the 4th...and then packing for a week to the "soggy side of nowhere." I'm bummed, I'm so close to start driving this thing...a couple more weeks, I could have taken the beast with me. Oh Well, next year.


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Posted by: computers4kids Jul 18 2008, 09:34 PM

Well, took a couple of weeks off and travled up to Port Townsend WA and the WCR in Seattle...great times and good people. Was able to get some great ideas from all the neat cars. After riding in Jamie's Buick 914, I've decided I have too bump up the front brakes immediately! Dang...these little cars haul ass with some more horsepower.

Thanks to Jamie, I brought home the valance on his 74 roller. The holes for the dual exhaust lined up pretty good. I know have to decide whether to close up the hole for just one tip or change the tips to fill the hole. Perhaps dual tips, or one larger oblong tip...not sure at the moment.

Installed the Ghetty dash...tomorrow the gauges go in and if all goes well, I'm taking it around the block for it's maiden voyage.

It's licensed and insured now.....



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Posted by: JRust Jul 19 2008, 02:17 PM

I kind of like the flatter & wider ovaled pipe. I think it would look pretty cool to fill the holes. Dual pies would probably look cool too. Maybe you could give it that dual tip aftermarket look of the anza? Then maybe people would think it was still a VW motor? Then they would go HOLY $hit that is a fast VW

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 20 2008, 09:40 PM

Installing the ghetty dash took much longer than I had expected. I took the time to lengthen the wires that needed to be using the correct colored wire from an old harness that I had been saving just for this. Added the rest of the wiring, like senders for the oil pressure, water temperature, voltmeter, clock and all the lights in the new gauges. I did not cut any of the wires of the 75 project car's dash so the whole dash is reversible if someone was so inclined.
It turned out looking pretty sharp! I have to give special thanks to Morphenspectra (james) for doing an outstanding job covering the dash in leather and of course, http://members.aol.com/bigmarkdesign/products for customizing a few of my gauges (added volt and water temp gauges and changed my v-8 tach to a non-silver bullet). I also took his advice and I wired a "fans on" lamp at the bottom of the tach to let me know when the fans come on.

And finally, I DROVE MY CAR TWO FEET TODAY I couldn't get the transmission into reverse to get out of the garage and it was late and I didn't want to start adjusting the linkage. If my memory serves me correctly, I should be able to adjust the shifter my moving it...I'll have to look up which way.





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Posted by: JRust Jul 20 2008, 09:59 PM

Yes just pull the cover & loosen the one bolt. If it isn't quite getting reverse you'll want to hold the shifter itself in place. Then slide the linkage itself back 1/4-1/2 inch. Start at a 1/4 & see if it's enough. Sounds like you maiden voyage will come tommorow!!!!!

Can't wait to hear about it. Make sure you set up your camera so you can see you face. Be a sweet angle for your first drive The smile you get is one to remember

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 21 2008, 09:52 PM

It's official...the 75 is off its rollers. I actually was able to drive it around the block a few times today. All I can say is "holy sh*@T" I am not driving this thing out of my neighborhood until I beef up the front brakes. This is going to be a fun ride.

On another note, I was suprised when I parked my 75 next to the 74, the 74 sat lower to the ground by about an inch both front and back...I expected quite the opposite and the 75 has lower profile tires (60's compared to the 65s on the 74).

Next step, build a GT grill...I think. Have to search the site for some "how to" write-ups.



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Posted by: JRust Jul 21 2008, 10:16 PM

Absolutely sweeeeeeeet!

Defiantely beef them up. Also you need to go to way lower profile tires. 205/45's are the stuff man. CONGRATS on being roadworthy! well sorta

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 21 2008, 11:39 PM

Jamie...are you tired of those rims yet...I'm patient.

Posted by: neo914-6 Jul 22 2008, 04:02 AM

great job!

Posted by: michaelt55 Jul 22 2008, 03:50 PM

Great looking car! I love the interior and would like to see the differences in both of our cars. You rode in Jaime's, how much more power does yours have?


Michael

Posted by: JRust Jul 22 2008, 08:55 PM

Although I have not ridden in Mark's I will go out on a limb & say his is faster! I am pushing low 200's I think. I would think a crate 350 puts out more than that easy . I can guarantee it is quicker right this second. I blew a head gasket I think. Hopefully that is all? I should know tommorow it's in the shop

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 22 2008, 09:19 PM

What did you blow? This is a family station. Let's watch the language.

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 22 2008, 09:24 PM

Thanks Michael. It's going to be about 500 miles before I can really get on it. The motor is crate new. The motor has a few goodies inside and is setup to be a high reving motor with the torque curve devolping at a higher rpm. I'm anxious to take it to the truck scales to weigh it against my stock 2ltr. Should be interesting.

Posted by: JRust Jul 22 2008, 11:40 PM

You need to be more careful! You were riding in my car when it blew If any of the sicko's get ahold of this we'll have another 30 replies lickity split
Think man! Think

So to clarify! My engine I believe blew a head gasket. I'm hoping that is the extent of the damage

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 23 2008, 12:48 AM

Now I know why GT grills are so expensive...they're a lot of work to put together. After looking at Eric Shea's thread, Pelican's, and a few examples of others who bought or are making them, I said to myself "I can do that!"

I tried to incorporate the ideas that I liked and went off on my own to make my own version of the GT grill. Even though they all look similar from 3' they're not...look close.

Here's my almost finished product. It still needs painting and trim beads on both grills. The grills are not attached yet...
I'll post the painted version tomorrow...hopefully.

Here is the frame with rounded corners...hopefully to reduce stress cracks.

To secure the back on the second grill, I welded in a 1" X 18" strip on the underside of the grill and made tabs on the grill by flattening a few areas. The tabs slide into the space between the braces and the strip that I made. No fasterners are needed. The front is secured by the pins of the first grill and a couple of the pins going from the top and side.

You're looking at the small lip welded on the underside.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jul 26 2008, 12:21 AM

Mark,

Great install and progress thread.

Some day at a future WCR , you me and Jamie will lead the pack.

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 26 2008, 12:40 AM

Thanks Tony! Sounds good...that would be fun. Hopefully, next time I'll have more time to pick your brain....your'e car is so dialed-in. It gives Jamie and I something to shoot for.

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 26 2008, 12:43 AM

Back to our regular scheduled program...
Added some Camp914 bling to the cabin today...Craig's replacement seat handles. If have your seats out...do yourself a favor and pickup a set of these from Craig. You won't regret it.


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Posted by: computers4kids Jul 26 2008, 12:47 AM

Also in the mail today from Craig, came the beading I needed to assemble my GT grill...ony available at Camp914. All in all, the grill came out pretty decent. Next time, should be a lot easier.

The final product....



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Posted by: Wilhelm Jul 26 2008, 05:53 AM

So..... The Alaskan takes his snowmobile to the mechanic........
Mechanic: Whats wrong?
Alaskan: I think I blew a seal.
Mechanic: I don't want to hear about your personal problems. Whats wrong with the snomobile?

Thank you ladies and germs... We'll be droppin bombs here all weak.


On Topic: Nice build!

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 29 2008, 11:34 PM

Thanks to Nick, his almost new BMW front calipers arrived yesterday. I added a 19mm MC along with some Porterfield pads to go with them. It took a lot of bleeding to get all the air out of the system, but at last...a hard firm peddle. And...they stop great, you would never know the car is carying the extra weight.


Had to drill out 1/2 of the floor pan welded nuts that hold the bottom part of the rockers on. Installed new t-nuts and checked the rockers for fitment.

Finally had a chance to open it up a bit today...very nice.
Next....install a Holley blue electric fuel pump and regulator

It's starting to look like a car!



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Posted by: michaelt55 Jul 30 2008, 05:00 PM

"Added some Camp914 bling to the cabin today...Craig's replacement seat handles. If have your seats out...do yourself a favor and pickup a set of these from Craig. "




hmm...you must have hex'ed me...Guess what broke on MY car today when I was out for a drive!!!

Ok..off to Camp 914... ok..Craig's sold another set!

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 1 2008, 06:12 PM

A little more progress...
I took...no, "I drove the car" down to the muffler shop today and had quad exhaust added to the turbo mufflers to fill the valance exhaust holes of the valance that I picked up from Jamie Rust. It turned out really good.
Here's a picture before a valance (used a 71 deep valance), single outlet, then dual.


http://blantonbunch.com/305.mp3

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 1 2008, 06:38 PM

After the muffler shop, drove it down to this high tech alignment shop we have in town and they got the car all dialed-in. They also gave the front end a clean bill of health afterwards. The drive home was great...smooth and quite...no more clunk. At least I didn't hear it anymore?



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Posted by: JRust Aug 2 2008, 12:30 AM

Sounds good Mark! Dual tips fill it perfectly. Wish I was close by so we could race. Of course my car would need to be working right

Posted by: michaelt55 Aug 2 2008, 12:04 PM

I have a GT lid also. Tell me if it makes that much difference in cooling? If it makes a 5 degree difference I am swapping mine out.



Michael

Posted by: TC 914-8 Aug 3 2008, 01:20 AM

Hey Mark,

Good to see you are still at it, your car will be a champ in no time.

What's the verdict with Jamies Car ?? Are we going to see a new V-8 thread for him??

Keep us posted,

I did a local " Porsches on the Peir " last week in Pt Angles Wa.

when I pulled up with all the 993', Boxters, Caymans, and 930"s all's I saw was nostrils' then they warmed up a bit to allow me to partcipate.


Talk to you soon,

Tony

Posted by: jim_hoyland Aug 3 2008, 09:09 AM

Very nice Mark!

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 4 2008, 07:21 PM

Michael...I really don't hava any comparsion temps. When I saw how much heat the motor was cranking out, I immediately built the GT grill. I have a laser temp gauge, it would be interesting to see what kind of temps the engine compartment runs. I was waiting for my brakes to arrive, so I never drove the car much with the reg. lid. Both Jamie and I are interested in ceramic coating our headers for just this reason.
Mark

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 4 2008, 07:24 PM

I love the pier picture...classic! So you sponsored the event and you were the only 914...too funny. Jamie's car is coming along...he seems like he's getting a handle on the whole overheating bit.

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 4 2008, 07:35 PM

Well my Summer is almost over...back to work in a week. Work is really going to cut into my play time. Did a little work...
Intalled a Holley Blue electric pump and regulator. I had read they tend to be a bit noisy..that's an understatement. I'm not to sure I'm going to keep it. I even took extra care mounting it on the old 75 fuel pump inspection plate and separated it from the body of the car with a thick bead of butle. The noise is not acceptable.


Next, I installed a set of Dr. Evil's axle bolts with stainless wire. I'll feel a little better now...read too many threads of axle catastrophies with the bolts loosening up.


Finally, "Did I ever tell you how much I hate to work on fiberglass?' I'll take metal work any day. Anyway...rear valance is now sweet and ready for paint.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Aug 4 2008, 11:00 PM

Hi Mark, It wasn't my show on the Peir, it was a PCA event, But yep I was the only 914.

On the topic of the electric fuel pump, I installed a Carter pump up front like yours. I did try to use the supplied rubber gromets and mounting brackets, and it is still prety noisy, until the engine starts then you cant hear it.

Try using a few rubber pads between the bracket and cover plate, then another rubber plate between the cover plate and front wall. It may help.

The Install looks great, and I like the regulator with the gauge, Where did you get it ?
Your rear valance and Exhaust tips look cool. I will be checking my CVbolts when I get home first thing.

Tony

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 5 2008, 12:05 AM

Tony...the Holley regulator is sold at all the usual places, http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/745059/10002/-1. The standard regulator has one in and two outs...use one for a gauge.

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 31 2008, 10:05 PM

Work has really been getting in the way of getting back to my project...
Have been able to do a few things. First, I replaced my custom oil pan with a chrome stock oil pan which allowed me to use a stock sideshift rod. Now my car shifts fantasitcally...no more oil pan interference.

Well, I finally had time to build my front end grill. I had just mocked-up a temp grill to get the car running. While I was at the WCR2008 I met a guy (Jerry) who had used a Nissan 350Z grill to customize his rengegade cooling pass through on the front bumper. I knew then what I wanted.

With a little luck, I came across a new 350z grill on ebay and walked away with it for $51 with shipping.

It took a bit of work to make it fit since I'm a perfectionist, but I'm pleased with the way it came out.
Here's a before and after....

Little by little it's all coming together


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Posted by: JRust Aug 31 2008, 11:08 PM

Hey Mark that definately looks better than your get you by one. I can't remember what color you are painting your car. So I am not sure if I like the chrome look yet. I do like the black look on the grills myself. Still until I see it once your car is painted I will reserve judgment.

Having said all that that grill looks like the way to go. It does tie in really well with the fog light grill. Glad to know you got something out of WCR besides the helping me work on my car . I'll be looking to buy one of those grills for myself. although on my car the grill will be all black if I have to paint it myself. With my front being black I think the chrome or polished would stand out to much

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 1 2008, 11:34 AM

Chrome or Black? Jamie...Do you think the chrome with look better on a black flared car?
I've seen both the black and chrome on cars and I tend to lean toward the chrome. I don't care for the chrome fogs with the black grills as much. If you go black fogs and black grill that would look good...I think. The color of the car has alot to do with how it looks.

I'm going to paint my car the marathon blue metalic...the chrome I believe will look good...if not, I'll paint or power coat them black. You can always go to black not the other way around as easily.

On another note, did I mention I took my car down to the public scales an had it weighed? With the targa top and not installed pieces of chrome, the car weighs right at 2360lbs. Someday, I would like to weigh my stock 74.


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Posted by: JRust Sep 1 2008, 03:46 PM

I think the chrome would look good on a black flared car in my garage
Did you go pick up my car yet you dog?

Posted by: tronporsche Sep 2 2008, 12:16 AM

Well, well, well. Mr. Mark. You dirty- son -of -a gun. I don't appreciate you sneaking up on me with this 914 monster you have created!!! I must say, you are quite a craftsman. We got to get together one day and hit Angeles Crest Forest. You'll love it, and really, really, appreciate the work you have just done. Congratulations, you did it ! the car looks greeeaaat !!!!

Posted by: tronporsche Sep 2 2008, 12:24 AM

Mark, Im sure you weighd the car with a full tank of gas, correct ? If so, than it is interesting for me to point out that my car weighs 180 pounds more than your car. My rims and adapters are killing me !!!!

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 2 2008, 08:56 AM

Hey, I'm glad to see you are posting your car over here...what a sweet ride. I still love your rims!

The car was weighed with almost a full tank. Don't forget you have all your stereo stuff...that's alot of extra. Plus your diamond plate adds-up. You should weigh one of your rims, tire with an adapter just for curiosity.

Once again...your car looks great.
Mark

Posted by: tronporsche Sep 2 2008, 08:27 PM

Hey Mark, one thing I meant to mention to you, I saw in one of your posts you were asking about the radiator fan being on all of the time, I also read in a book to have it on for a while after the car is turned off to prevent the valves from warping (or lifters). Anyways, that is a good reason to have a "fan switch" added......and the weighing the rim and adapter idea is a good idea !!!

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 2 2008, 11:10 PM

Now that I am actually driving my car some, I realize the fan is acutally cycling on an off maintaing the car somewhere between 180-190. And actually the way it is wired, the fans stay on for 1-2 minutes after the car is turned off. However in my mind, I really don't understand how that could possibly help the engine since no water is circulating (typical Renedgade setup). Now if you had an electrical pump it would make more sense. All I know is it works perfectly...I'm happy.

I took the car to a local paint shop to get an estimate for a base coat clear coat nice paint job. Even after all the work, they still wanted $2400...ouch. I know my color but I'm not positive how to go with the paint. I'm thinking satin black on all the valances, but the bumpers are the stumbling block...body color or sating black is the question???

Posted by: tronporsche Sep 3 2008, 04:59 AM

It's funny, no matter how much you bust your butt and get a perfect prep for these paint shop guys, they always find a way to say your work isn't good enough and they have so much more to do, for more money. You are in the game with doing the work yourself !!!! But if you don't feel like it, I am more than sure you can get one of these guys here to do it in thier own garage !!!.........I remember reading the fan staying on is to cool of the coolant, so it is just not sitting there at the high boiling temp. after the car is just turned off........I think the picture on the right hand side will work if that bumper is plastic or fiberglass and is not going to fade or peel. I can also tell you, a lot of sport cars also go with the mesh the same color as the car, kind of gives it a "euro roadster" look, I think. Just remember, if you are going to have that chrome grill, you are going to have to bring out more chrome on your car and rims IMO. My mesh is a smaller area and you have a longer, more attractive mesh, with that said, I am considering spraying mine black, but if you can zoom in on it here, it might help you to see the point I am trying to make.......Wait a minuite, I''m confused, didn't you just say you were going to paint the car Marathon blue metallic ??? Hey I've got an idea, if you go with the chrome look, I think one of those chrome luggage racks on the back trunk would compliment it


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Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 3 2008, 09:16 AM

CHROME!! jerry broke the code with the z grill.

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 4 2008, 09:37 AM

It's been over a month since I posted on my v-8 project thread...work, work, work!
Well, I had made a decision a month ago that is was just about time to paint the car...so I had to decide if I was going to make any major changes before it was painted. We all know what happens when you paint a car then have to do some major work...yep scratch, dent, oops. Anyway, I decided I wanted to go to 5 lug....yeah, yeah, I know--I wanted more wheel and tire choices.

So the last month I have accumulated the parts to convert the front over to 911 spindles, but I chose to keep my B&M calipers and porterfield pads--they worked awesome. Also picked-up new ball joints, and a turbo tie rod kit while I was in there. Thanks to another teener, I was also able to source a set of Boge Koni reds strut inserts for the front as well.

For the rears, THOMAS drilled a set of hubs and pressed in studs for me. I knew to freeze the new bearings, to install them (not my freezer pic...no evidence for the wife LOL)., but all the threads that I had read, no one had mentioned about freezing the hubs as well when it was time to pull them into the bearings. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=88571
And after a mishap with the 5 lug drilling of my 4 lug zimmerman rotors, I went and picked-up a new set of 6 rotors. I'll go ahead a drill the two centering holes for the small screws in the correct position before I install them (sixes have these two holes in different spots on the hubs).

The wheels I picked-up are a matched set of 1978 fuchs, 16 X 6 and 16 X 7s that are darn near perfect...and fully polished. The caps I bought from ebay and a set of pollished alloy lugs came from AutoAtlanta (still waiting for them).

For tires, I bought a set of BF Goodrich 205/45/16 Z rated sports from Costco. Great deal, they gave me an instant 60 dollar rebate from BF Goodrich and the tires ended up costing me 381 out the door balanced and all--which I felt was a great deal for a quality tire. Tip: Had to bring the rims in and say the tires were going on a 911 to get Costco to mount them (policy...only mount stock tires) LOL.

Hopefully the last of the odd ball pieces will arrive today so I can put it all back together...who want to be the lugs won't show-up?

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 15 2008, 10:25 PM

Thanks to Bruce Stone and all his help, I completed my 5 lug conversion, front and rear. Today I was able to install the wheels and drop the car back on the ground. Still needs a front end alignment but it's ready to roll again.

The car sits with a slight rake, with the back slightly higher. Overall the car is now at a nice ride height, which is about 1/1/4 lower than it was when I had 15s with 60 series tires.


Lastly, also added a bit of more engine bling...Edlebrock Elite series valve covers.

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 27 2008, 10:20 PM

Had some more time to work on the project so I worked on the front bumper and valance. Because of how I'm going to paint the car, I decided I needed some more chrome bling. Took off the painted front bumper and adapted a chrome one for my v8 grill and added a Renegade valance.

I have a decent chrome bumper for the back, but I'm hoping to find a gorgeous one.

Picked-up a 914VWPorsche rear badge, but unfortunately it's the wrong color...I need to paint it black or have it chromed.


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Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2008, 10:51 PM

Hey Mark when are you going to paint that car? Rims look great! Nice choice on the fuchs

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 27 2008, 10:59 PM

Nice choice on the fuchs..no chrome, those are highly polished baby!

Yeah, it's getting close to getting some paint, but I want to sort everything out first. I even ditched the stock leather wheel for a sporty one...just for you.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Oct 28 2008, 12:23 AM

Hey Mark,
I must say she's looking good. You should have her ready for the 09 ramble. I am originally from So. Cal, so I waiting to see when and where it's going to be. I might make it, on a trailer of course, ( Trailer queen).
But never the less I would love to see your car when it's done, you have done a fine job.

I did pick up a fuel reg. and gauge set up from Jegs, It dropped my pressure from 12psi to 5.5. I can't tell a big difference, but knowing the pressure is right makes me fell it's running better.

Tony

Posted by: computers4kids Nov 9 2008, 05:59 PM

Well, I'm just about about of excuses why I haven't painted this tub. Other than having the sail chrome and window channel chrome detailed by a polisher, I'm stuck on how to paint it.

I intended to paint it marathon blue (sliver blue) but still thinking about...

• paint all the valances semi-gloss black or go with body color?
• shave the front turn signals or not?
• Not to sure about the sail panels to paint body color, or cover with vinyl again?
• Paint the top body color or black?
• I'm stuck...can't seem to make a decision!

I need to make some decisions
Or...do I just fear finishing this project because I know I'll need to start another


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Posted by: JRust Nov 9 2008, 08:07 PM

With the silver blue maybe go with something besides black for the trim. Maybe a charcoal grey or something? Then again silver & black does look pretty dang good. Get your photoshop skills going & see what you like

Posted by: computers4kids Nov 11 2008, 07:34 PM

I celebrated Veteran's Day today by shaving my turn signal indicators. Yup...welded them right up and the antenna hole too! I think I'm finally starting to get the hang of welding! About time!

Posted by: stewteral Nov 11 2008, 09:39 PM

Hey Computer Skids:

I'll offer the answers I can. I started my 914-V8 with Renegade and found that Scottie & crew don't know what they are doing, are NOT car-guys and turn out CRAP from their shop. I have met Scottie and chatted twice and know him to be a USED CAR SALESMAN. Did you know in 2002, there was guy in LA who ran a site for a year just to show the bad work that Renegade did..and he was a specialty car sales shop who had planned on buying 15 Renegade cars.
YES, I am dumping on Renegade, but only to keep you from getting MORE screwed than you are from buying their kit. I really hate dishonest people.
I built my car completely myself and not a SINGLE Renegade part in it! I have a built 383 (500 HP) + 930 trans + 12" x 1.25" Wilwood rotor & 4-piston calipers.
I also welded in a complete rollcage which is a great investment for safety and stiffening the chassis!

Your questions:

There seems to be plenty of room to leave the battery tray in the OEM position, why do many move the location to the trunk?
==> The battery is put in the trunk to help balance the rear weight bias. However,
there are a couple problems: most people put the radiator directly behind the radiator to bake in 200 degree heat...What are they thinkin? If you have room in the engine bay or a corner of the trunk, it will be a great solution. I have tried the trunk and now have it in the passenger footwell, but could not feel the difference in how the car handles....so don't sweat the trunk.

I have the Renegade wiring harness but no diagram...can someone send me a copy?
==> Sorry, I did my own wiring.

The exhaust is headers with twin turbo exhaust. Do you remove the stock exhaust heat sheild...it fits either way. Is it good to leave it or remove it?
==> While I have cut out 1/2 the trunk to install 180 degree headers and don't know exactly what you have, I would recommend KEEPING the heatshields.
There is a LOT of heat in the engine bay and the shields may help from melting
plug wires. I finally had to run mine UNDER the headers.
NOTE: Even though the engine is water cooled, I learned the 30% of the cooling comes from AIR COOLING. On my car, I have completely removed the engine cover and made a replacement completely out of screen. If your 305 is mild, that
won't be necessary, but I would recommend attaching a piece of sheetmetal extending DOWN from the engine crossbar that will force air from under the car
up across the engine and OUT into the LOW pressure area created by the Notch-back roof design. Small cost and effort should be helpful in the Visalia summer heat.

Where do you source your power for the front 'dual fan radiator?' From what I have read it needs to be powered all the time, not switched. Is there a source to tap into in the front trunk or do you run a dedicated line...if so how heavy?
==> I boot-legged power from the under-dash power-distribution and fuse assembly. 2 screws drops it our and you can tap off it, run the power forward to a separate dual fuse block and then wire to each fan. With this approach, if 1 fan fails, you will still have 1 working.

I would really love to see pictures of your V-8 914 front end so see what kind of setup you did for valance and cutting the bumper! I'm good on the fender cuts.
==> Since my car is a barely-street car/track car, I bought the fiberglass nose piece (from a shop that is now gone) and cut as much nose out as I could to get as big of an area as I could. If you can achieve an opening the is 50% of radiator area, you are in great shape. Another thing my engineer bud beat on me about:
to SHROUD the airflow to the radiator and out. I just used sheet aluminum. I exhausted out the bottom of the trunk behind my spoiler (low pressure area) instead of out the wheel wells, but both approaches seem to worl.

Stupid Question: The renegade recommends using #8 1/2 metal screws to attach the brackets that hold the coolant hoses to the bottom of the car. It mentions to be careful not to puncture the fuel lines in the tunnel. How can you tell if your'e going to hit a fuel line or not? ...other than just hoping and guessing?
==> the easy answer is to space the hoses OUTBOARD of the center tunnel. However, this is an area of my BIGGEST disagreement with sloppy Renegade: what happens when you drag the bottom of the car over a bad driveway?
I installed 1-1/2" copper tubing and soldered bends on their path UP the central tunnel, up and under the gas tank into the front trunk..there is room and it wasn't hard to do! You could also run 1-1/2" rubber hose and get it done faster. This approach takes cutting access in the engine-bay firewall and then holes through to the trunk. To get access, I cut open the top of the tunnel (and cleaned out 30 years of rust and gunk) and replaced it with Alu sheet.
BTW: I am using a Mezier Remote Electric water pump which was cheaper than the Renegade mechanical thing. The advantage is that when you are idling in traffic, the electric is pumping at max rate! Constant optimal cooling!

If this is help for you, great. If you would like to email me direct, I'd be glad to tell how I solved problems and have pics to show.
Best of luck,
Terry
stewteral@verizon.net

Posted by: computers4kids Nov 11 2008, 10:15 PM

Terry,
Thank you for all your comments and suggestions. I will probably follow-up on your idea to force air upward into the engine compartment to better cool the engine and disperse some of the heat build-up.

To date, I have move passed many of the questions that I had earlier on. Eventually, I'll probably do something different for the water hoses as you mentioned.

I still need to do something to improve shifting (stock 914 linkage sucks). Likewise, it would be a good idea for me to eventually re-gear my transmission with some taller gears.

If you so inclined, I would love to see some pics of your 914.
Thanks again,
Mark

Posted by: JRust Nov 12 2008, 12:10 AM

I for one have been very happy with Renegade hybrids. Are they perfect probably not but they provide a very good service. Especially for those that are not gifted in the fabrication department. I am neither a great wrench nor a real genious when it comes to working on my 914's. Still they spoke to me in terms I could understand. I had no problem with the instalation of their products. I have not done a complete v8 kit thru them. Altough I did buy their radiator kit & am absolutely thrilled with it's performance & fit. Even a self proclaimed idiot like myself was able to install it .

Though I can & do apreciate your skill Terry. I think you could have accomplished the same in your post without the negative comments towards Rengade, their product & staff. Let's keep things positive I to would love pics of your work & your car. I have a buick 215 in my 70. I've got quite a list of things I wanted to work on this winter. It is kind of on the backburner as I bought a 74 creamsicle. It is taking my time & money instead of the v8 at this point

Mark I can't wait to see your car once you paint it

Posted by: TC 914-8 Nov 12 2008, 12:43 AM

Looks like it's time for Terry to start his own V-8 thread.
I have a Rod Simpson kit( so I can't bag on Renegade) with the radiator lines running thru the rocker panels, I rarely see temps over 180-200. I have seen the electric water pump and think that is the way to go if/ when my side pump fails, also a delay off is even a bigger benefit. I also like the idea of engine compartment baffels. I also stand behind the theory of the low pressure area behind the rear window causing an "Up Flow" thru the engine compartment. I had a side scoop with a fan blowing up thru an intercooler on a supercharged V-6 I built a long time ago. Worked like a champ. You could reach over the back with the top off and feel the heat when crusing down the road.

Mark you have come a long way, it's funny to see your questions being answered 6 mos later. At the time it was the hurtle of the day. Now it's all fluff and soon to be polish. Can't wait to see your car painted.

Tony

Posted by: LvSteveH Nov 12 2008, 02:19 PM

There's one in every crowd Maybe he wasn't held enough as a child?

I've lost track of how many V8 conversions I've owned, but I have four right now. Needless to say I've seen the good, the bad, and the ugly.

I've probably bought 10 or so conversions that were already done. Two cars were actually built in house at Renegade before I worked there. Of those 10 cars that were already converted, only the two that were converted at Renegade could be driven reliably without ANY additional work.

The first 914 was converted by Renegade in 1990 then in 2006 it had a tall ratio 915 installed and had a few updates. No problems at all. It might as well have been a honda.

The other Renegade in house car I bought was a 911. Basically someone had bought it already converted and it went to Renegade for inspection. Virtually everything had to be redone. Shortly after Renegade finished it the guy needed money for a pending adoption, and I got a nice car at a great price.

When the car was originally brought to Renegade it ended up on the "Wall of shame". For those who don't know, the "Wall of shame" is reserved for conversions that went wrong. That car is actually still on Renegade's website in that section. Ultimately Renegade replaced the front pan, upgraded the cooling, fuel tank, engine, and conversion components. The end result was a very fast car that ran great. I was very happy with the work that Renegade did, and again, that was before I worked there.

Even though the Renegade small block chevy kit has been around for 20 years it has undergone improvements along the way. It currently incorporates the same floating radiator design that the LS1 kit uses, although the flow characteristics are different. The kit is easy to install, well made, and most importantly it just works. The quality of the machined components is world class.

If you're the type of guy that would rather "build everything yourself" you can do that. Some guy built a remarkable Lamborghini replica in his basement. Of course it took him 10 years and he could have just bought a real countach, but he did it on his own terms. If they are properly installed the kits are in no way sloppy or poorly engineered. One real problem is that often a conversion will be represented as a "Renegade conversion" when it actually only has a Renegade adapter plate that's 20 years old. Everything else might be cobbled together.

Every in house car that Renegade builds is done to the customer's specifications. Some guys just want a basic driver that's safe and reliable while others want something show worthy. Most people fall somewhere in the middle. So, as a consequence, some cars are going to be nicer than others. Plenty of jobs get turned down because the scope of work needed exceeds what the customer can either justify of afford. Right now there's a 1997 993 twin turbo getting upgraded to an LS3 and a 1991 928 getting a 640hp LS7, so there’s plenty of high end work going on.

Suggesting that everyone should run their cooling lines inside the center tunnel leaves me scratching my head. First and foremost, that is really invasive, especially for a kit customer. Secondly, your fuel lines run in the center tunnel and putting them in a confined space with 180 degree coolant is a bad idea. Not to mention how much more heat will migrate into the cabin.

I'll be the first to say running the coolant hoses on the underside of the car isn't the most elegant solution, but it works great, it's easy to do, and it's inexpensive. The underside of a 914 has two recesses along the center tunnel that guides the hose and provides 1/2" more ground clearance. If it's done properly it really doesn't look bad. In terms of function, it's a very direct route that minimizes restriction and most importantly it doesn't trap air.

I know of only one person who had an issue with hoses under the car. He didn't see a VERY large speedbump and nearly high-centered his car. It bent one of the hose retainers over and restricted the flow. He reached under the car, bent it back, and went on his way. Regardless of whether you have hoses under the car or not, you're going to look under the car when you hit something like that. Gates green stripe is extremely tuff stuff. Anything that would get through it would probably compromise a copper or aluminum solid line as well. Of course you can't do a quick roadside repair on a solid line.

Unless there’s a back-story behind the animosity, I just don’t get it. The first time I visited Renegade five years ago I was very impressed with the quality and attention to detail. They used almost all new hardware, even on the transmission covers. I’m not saying Renegade is perfect, like any business they are only as good as the guys doing the work. Several previous employees are members of 914world, and I know for a fact they are very competent mechanics and fabricators.

Everyone here loves what they do, even the office manager drives a 914 every day. You won't find many places with more "car guys" (and gals) than Renegade.

Rather than stir something up why don’t you post some pics and details of your car so everyone can admire your work?

Posted by: TC 914-8 Nov 13 2008, 12:53 AM

Here- Here, good job on the rebuttal.

Now let mark have his thread back.

Let's see the new paint.

Posted by: Toast Nov 13 2008, 12:04 PM

Sorry TC. I don't normally do this, so I apologize to you because you tried to Un-hijack this thread. And my apologies to Mark for contiuning the hijack of your very informative thread.

stewteral,

I work for Renegade Hybrids. I am the female that Steve mentioned in his post that ones a 914, which has been my daily driver for the last 5 years. I have been a 914 community member since 2001 and many people here at World know that I would not work for a dishonest, non-reputable company, espically in the Porsche industry.

I am very offended by your statements. Renegade has very knowledgable technicians and do not do sloppy, short-cutting work. I see first hand daily the work that is done on the cars here, and the customers dive away very happy. I know of NO "USED CARS" being sold from here.

The gentleman you mentioned from 2002 was upset because we posted pictures of his car on Renegades website "Wall Of Shame" forum, quote/unquote "without his consent". That was the way he brought the car to us, NOT the work we did on his car.

Enough.
I dont dispute things here and never have. If you want to post pictures of the "sloppy" work that you think was done by Renegade Hybrids, then maybe we will have something to go by. Also, post pics of the wonderful work that you bragged about. Better yet, drive it to the next driving event and i'll tell you what I think in person.

Melba


Now can we please get back to Mark's V8 progress thread?

Posted by: computers4kids Nov 14 2008, 05:36 PM

The day has come....yep, time to get some paint! I really had to push myself to make it happen...kinda caught-up in how to paint it. Anyway, once I decided on the color scheme, the rest was easy.

Hopefully will have some pics someday.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Nov 16 2008, 12:36 PM

Good luck Mark, you don't waist any time. What color are you going with?

Keep us posted.

Posted by: computers4kids Dec 16 2008, 06:51 PM

In between rain showers, I brought home my 914 from the paint shop. It's pretty gloomy here and getting dark, but here is a couple pictures to get the idea. I had it painted the original color(silver) but for a "74", not 75 which is the year of this car.
L96 Marathon Blue Metallic (base coat, clear coat). In the sun the paint is just beautiful. I'm really looking forward putting all the "bling" back on it. I had much of the the chrome on the car, including the window bars polished.

The really cool thing about picking the car up today, is that 29 years ago today, my wife and I were married and our honeymoon car was a 74 marathon blue 914...how about that for coincidence. I didn't plan it that way. OK...enough about cars, off for a dinner date with my honey.


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Posted by: JRust Dec 16 2008, 07:15 PM

Lookin sweet! It will be even better once everything is put back together. Keep the pics coming

Hope you take your wife somewhere nice! Congrats on 29 years

Posted by: jim_hoyland Dec 16 2008, 08:40 PM

Very nice Mark ! Can't wait to see your work of art. Try to make the New Years Hangover Run

Posted by: wallys914 Dec 16 2008, 09:07 PM

Where did you get the paint done?

When I bought my car 1 years ago the date it has to be re-registered is my anniversary with my wife! Strange Shit....I had to get the car, i can never forget the registration LOL

Posted by: echocanyons Dec 16 2008, 10:37 PM

Lookin' good!



Congrats on the anniversary too!

Posted by: TC 914-8 Dec 16 2008, 11:21 PM

Hey Mark,

Wow lookin sharp. Take your time with putting all the bling back on, give the paint some time to cure. I'm not too far away from you in Sac. too bad I can't go south and see it in person. I can't wait to see it all together, I think your a canidate for COTM, soon.
Congrats on the Car, Your annaversary, and most of all having a 914, 29 years ago.

Tony

Posted by: Coy Dec 17 2008, 05:45 PM

Mark,

That looks really great!!

Congrats!

Posted by: computers4kids Dec 26 2008, 06:51 PM

16 months after I drug my 75 project home from Oregon and a few engine diversions (subaru and big4...couldn't decide), my V-8 project is pretty much done....well, :Qarl:as much as any 914 is
I still need to rechrome the back bumper, install my AC unit and install my new door inside sill trim, but hey...close enough. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91088&st=0

Posted by: JRust Dec 27 2008, 12:13 PM

Looking absolutely sweet !

Congrats Mark. Your 914-8 is as nice as I knew it would turn out. Still not sure I like the polished wheels over polished lips & painted centers. It does look very nice on your car though. You ass end seems like it sits kinda high? Maybe it just looks that way to me as mine sags a little

Posted by: marks914 Dec 27 2008, 04:23 PM

Mark,
That looks just right. The only thing you may want to do down the road is the tall gearing. That was the best thing I did for my car. Brad Mayeur did mine for an excellent price. (around $1300.00)

Nice job

Mark

Posted by: computers4kids Dec 27 2008, 09:25 PM

Thanks...yeah, first gear is worthless and could use at least a taller 5th for the freeway. I figure when I can justify the expense (not right now) I'll have the gears spread out and a taller 5th.

PS Do you recognize your handywork on the gauges...they look great and stock!
Thanks again,
Mark

Posted by: computers4kids Jan 5 2009, 02:56 PM

Thanks to one of our member vendors, Raul, I was able to install his reproduction door sills...a nice finishing touch.


One of the things that has been bothering me is the noise level at an idle and the resonation in the cab below 2,000 rpm. Currently, I have new turbo mufflers with the pipes going up and over the axles after dumping out of the headers. There isn't much room to play with for larger mufflers or anything else....so I started doing a lot of reading on the net about sound waves that accompany exhaust gasses. I didn't want to kill to many horses but wanted it quieter.

As a result, I decided to have a crossover pipe, sometimes called an H pipe installed between the two exhaust branches. There is a lot more to it that just welding in a pipe that connects the two, length, size of pipe, and position along the exhaust route all play into it. Now on most cars there is plenty of room...not is a v-8 914! My crossover pipe begins by branching off the elbow on the high side of exhaust pipe that goes over the axles. It then heads towards the rear of the car above the turbo mufflers across the rear of the car and then back up the other side. A junction was placed in the middle of the rear of the car so when I need to work on one side of the engine etc, I can disconnect and drop the exhaust either the left or right sides.

Bottom line, what a huge difference the pipe made...it did exactly what I had hoped for! My exhaust is still throaty, but mellowed and the resonation is gone at all rpms...that was a bigge. I could not tell any performance change, but the car sounds sweet and perfect for driving now...even my wife will come along

Posted by: computers4kids Jan 24 2009, 07:31 PM

I can't believe what a good chrome shop can do with metal! I took my rear bumper to them to be re-chromed and have some ripples and dings removed...the bumper came back like it was new. I know where the issues were and I can't even tell.

Also here is a tip to save everyone some $. My plastic chrome bumper plug needed re-chroming. Many great tips came in from other members how you could go to a hardware store and get a plug cheaply. Yes the cheap part is true, but the chrome is cheesy. A tip from my chrome guy led me to the "Harley Davidson" shop in town. They have some quality chrome plugs for $2 out the door (item #GW43578) that when snapped into place looks perfect.

Posted by: computers4kids Jan 24 2009, 07:54 PM

One of my next projects on this car is to re-gear the transmission. I need a higher geared 5th. 1st is pretty much useless right now. Here's a suggestion that one 914 member suggested...he said it made a big difference on his v8 teener.

You lock out 1st
2nd is stock
3rd is a flipped 4th (V)
4th is a flipped 3rd (N)
Throw away the stock 5th ((ZD) and install the H or HA flipped

I was able to recently able to pickup an H gear for a good price, so now I've got to make some gear decisions.
Here is the stock gearing in my 901 case. My tires are 23.5 inches.


Here is what I am thinking...I know, the topend is insane, but the RPMs should be good at 70. A (locked out); F; N; V, H

Here is a cutout 901 just for fun...not mine

Posted by: echocanyons Jan 24 2009, 08:17 PM

Great news with the crossover pipe I thought it sounded super when I was down but a bit quieter is probably a nicer ride.

What shop did you use for the chrome?

I wonder if we could round up a few more of the regional people and plan a drive, Sequoia park maybe (springtime of course)?

Posted by: marks914 Jan 24 2009, 08:19 PM

That is my reccomendation for sure. decent spacing, kind of like an old camaro. Best money I spent on my car. It is a real blast dropping it down in 2nd on the expressway. Its nice that I can hit 60 in 1st and 100 in 2nd, never wound out 3rd though.

Mark


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Posted by: computers4kids Jan 24 2009, 08:22 PM

A ride always sound like fun! The chome shop that I have been using is "Visalia Chrome" on Switzler street in Visalia. It's a one man show (I think)....family business, father now the son is running it. He does excellent work. No checks, cards etc...only cash, and you have to leave a deposit for the work. I would say his prices are average, but the work is superior.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jan 25 2009, 12:45 PM

Wow Mark, I told you it never ends. Where did you find the 5th gear at a reasonable price?

what is the purpose in flipping 4th to 3rd?

We'll have to talk about this gear ratio stuff in detail, I have the same problem.

I'll be working at a Food Max west shaw in Fresno, I'll drop you a PM to get your # maybe Wed or Thurs night we can get a burger, I can come your way, I Have to see your car in person.

Tony

Posted by: marks914 Jan 25 2009, 12:49 PM

Tony,
Take a look at my gear chart above, "flipping" 3rd andt 4th gives you the right spacing. If you leave 3rd and 4th where that are, its a long way to 5th. I dont show 1st (locked out)
Mark

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jan 25 2009, 01:42 PM

I see said the blind man, When you say "Flipping" you mean changing / Switching the order of the gear on the Shaft? I tend to think it is the set, the pilot and output gear? I do understand the concept of closer ratio but I need to get up to speed (no pun intended) on phsycally moving the gears around on the shafts. It seems you would have to move both ? to maintain the distance between the center point of the shafts, which would be Down shifting going fron 3 to 4th. Give me some time and it will come to me.

Are there any good threads showing gear box construction?

Thanks Mark,

Tony

Posted by: marks914 Jan 25 2009, 02:06 PM

The swapping is just like this:
You lock out 1st
2nd is stock
3rd is a flipped 4th (V)
4th is a flipped 3rd (N)
Throw away the stock 5th ((ZD) and install the H or HA flipped

which means:
Lock out 1st
2nd is stock
3rd: take the set off and replace it with the 4th gears reversed or "flipped" (drive gear is now the idle gear)
4th is the old 3rd gear flipped
5th is a H or HA (2nd out of a 901 box I believe, not a 914 box) flipped

Mark

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jan 25 2009, 09:32 PM

That makes sense, Fliping means moving the position on the " drive and Idler" along with the order on the cluster. Right?
So when I get there, which will be some day soon, where and what do I look to buy for the 5th gear?
I do agree 1st gear is useless with a V-8, but I do use it for the uphill starts, parking lot, slow stuff. I know it is very fragile but do you really want to lock it out?

T

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jan 26 2009, 12:51 AM

in hind sight i'd have kept the first gear for hills as stated above. but i live close to san francisco and experience steep hill starts.
you'll never "accidentally" start in first with a lead foot....

i had no idea they came in a narrow and deep rear valence. good to know. keep up the good work.


has anyone mentioned that you should prepare for smiling muscle cramps?

Posted by: marks914 Jan 26 2009, 06:48 AM

That is right on the swap and flip
For a taller 5th look for an H or HA,
Do you want to lock out 1st? Do whatever you want, its your car.
Mark

Posted by: JRust Jan 26 2009, 10:45 PM

I personally like having first available. I am very careful using it though. Nice to have in stop & go traffic. I haven't done a dang thing to my v8 in months. IT has been beautiful & sunny out. Enough that I am tempted to take a drive. Then I remember I literally have no heat & 41 degrees just aint cutting it . Guess it's good that my master cylinder is leaking & I got no brakes. If I fixed it I'd be ou there freezing my ass off

Posted by: computers4kids Jan 27 2009, 08:55 AM

To lock out first or not?

For me, using 1st gear occasionally & responsibly on acceleration is not really the issue. Since I'm the only one that drives my car, I don't see a problem with leaving it...Could be really handy in stop and go traffic or up a serious incline in stopped traffic.

However, my biggest concern is accidentally downshifting into 1st....going from 4th to 3rd can easily translate into disaster if you downshift from 4th to 1st by mistake. One might say "what idiot" would do that...no one with a v8 intentionally, but with the loosy-goosy 901 shift mechanism it's not that difficult. One slip like this and and your tranny would probably implode...then you have real problems.

Someday when I hit the lottery, I will add a Renshift on for sure...then it's probably no longer an issue of accidentally hitting first. I tried to see if one could put a "lock out" on first gear, like you can in reverse but couldn't find anyone that said it could be done. I think having a Renshift with R and 1st locked out at all times would be perfect...the driver has to intentionally unlock those gears when moving into them.

Dr. Evil had a great article how to semi-permanently lock out first inside the transmission. I know some guys literally remove the 1st gear...not sure why though, perhaps just good insurance?

Posted by: andys Jan 27 2009, 10:37 AM

With that same concern in mind, I believe it's one of our local 914 owners that replaced the springs on the R - 1 gate with a stronger set springs that are located in the shifter tower. He reports that after the mod you really have to want to put it into first, and he has a lot more comfort level after the spring swap.

Andys

Posted by: dkjens Jan 28 2009, 08:57 PM

Where does one find an H or HA gear set (which is higher?), does anybody make them (new)?
How high is a switched 2nd gear?

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jan 28 2009, 11:50 PM

someone around here knows where the list of transaxle case numbers are. they can reveal where you may find the gear sets you're looking for.

Posted by: type47fan Jan 29 2009, 12:59 AM

[attachmentid=166632]"H" = 19:32 (0.594), "HB"= 19:31 (0.613), '"HA" = 20:32 (0.625)

"H" -
902/00 4spd '65-'66 911/912
902/01 4spd '67-'68 912
902/04 4spd
902/14 4spd

"HA" -
901/53 5spd
901/54 5spd
901/78 5spd
901/79 5spd
901/83 5spd
901/84 5psd

"HB" -
901/06 4spd
901/10 4spd
901/12 4spd
905/00 sporto
905/01 sporto
905/13 sporto

These are all 2nd gear sets. Some transmissions (type "914") have the 2nd gear fixed on the drivehaft and is, thus, not removable. The 904 driveshaft had no fixed 2nd gear and was splined to accomodate different gears.

Technically, although referred to as a type "901" gearbox, the transmission supplied in the 914 is a type "914", for mid-engined application. Look at the numbers stamped on the spline of the case. The type "901" box is for the tail draggers.

If you decide to turn your car into a 4 speed or only use 1st gear as a crawler, you might consider getting an early 4 speed shift knob . . . .


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Posted by: pktzygt Feb 3 2009, 06:56 AM

Beautiful car!!! So beautiful that I was hoping that you wouldn't mind if I borrow your 350z grill idea?

I was planning on using a billet grill from a chevy truck, but it's looking like it won't fit very well. I did find a 350z grill that had 13 bars instead of your 16 bars to give it a little different look. I'm mostly concerned about how well did the curvature match the 914 bumper. What did you have to do to make that grill fit? It looks like the top bar on the 350z grill is shorter on the ends than the lower bars. Did you cut the rest of the bars to match in length? How did you mount it?

Thanks,
Sean

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 3 2009, 09:15 AM

Hi Sean,
The curvature of the 350z grill is pretty darn close to that of our front bumpers. You will need to shorten both ends and remove I as recall a couple of bars on each side of the width. This stuff cuts like butter with a cutting wheel. Just tape where you are going to cut so you don't accidentally mar-up the area next to the cuts. After cutting, use a DA or sander with fine sand paper to smooth the cut....looks perfect. The recesses of my grill bars is black, so I used a small paint brush and dabbed the ends to make it looked finished...can't even tell.

I welded a supports from a piece of an extra engine lid across the center of the bumper on either side. The grill comes with brackets on the backside and they will bolt to those brackets I welded on. I used some fiberglass spacers from the hardware store to space the grill flush.

The ends of the grill bars also flex easily. You will find the ends curve a bit downward for the 350z...just flex them straight to match the 914 horn grill pattern.

My buddy did the same for his v8 914 and went with black grill and black bumper for the stealth look....looks very nice as well if the bling is not your style.

Here is a picture of my painted bumper version still hanging in the garage....if your interested I would sell you that one ready to go (primered)...

Mark

Posted by: pktzygt Feb 3 2009, 11:17 AM

Thanks for the info. I think I might as well cut up one of my spare bumpers. It seems like a fairly easy project for me to practice my welding skills on. I think I will go for chromefor now on my black bumper and decide how it looks. Now I just need to decide on the 16 bar (better protection) or the 13 bar (hopefully looks closer to the fog light grills). I'll let you know if I change my mind about the bumper you offered.

Thanks again.

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2009, 12:03 PM

Here is a pic of mine using the 350z grill. I gotta admit mine is held in place at the moment with Zip ties . Still even without my valance I think it turned out nice. Really is pretty dead on with the foglight grills for spcing between ribs


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Posted by: pktzygt Feb 4 2009, 04:09 AM

Yours looks to be the 13 bar version. Do you remember where you bought yours from?

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 4 2009, 08:41 AM

Trex grills are high quality grills but can be had very cheap on ebay, or buy them direct from a retailer...several people sell them. Check around first...I found quite a few different prices. I bought mine new on ebay for $41.

Posted by: andys Feb 4 2009, 02:45 PM

Mark/JRust,

I seen they list a 02, 03, 04, 05 350Z grill application separately from a 06, 07 application. Are they in fact different? Which one should I get?

Thanks,

Andys

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 4 2009, 07:50 PM

I purchased the 2006, I can't speak to the other years. You could always call Nissan or someone who sells the Trex grills and ask. Check the part number for a 2006 Trex grill against the other years.
Sorry no help.

Posted by: JRust Feb 4 2009, 08:36 PM

Seems like mine was an 05 but I don't remember. Been a while too so I doubt it still shows in my que? I'm sure Mark's 06 is the way to go. His memory is better than mine

Posted by: Scott Schroeder Feb 5 2009, 01:03 PM

First of all - the car is simply beautiful. I love the color with the polished fuchs - even the black euro emblem - great total package.

I am havinf a hard time picturing your exhaust set -up, even with the pics. I am very interested in it. Anyway you could post a diagram?

Thanks!
Scott S

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 5 2009, 09:27 PM

Thanks for the compliments Scott. Hopefully this diagram will make a little more sense...hard to visualize. I just used an engine pic off the net for illustration purposes. The 914 engine is a small block chevy with a 901.

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 8 2009, 11:33 PM

Had sometime today, so I headed for the garage.
I have begun to install AC on my car, although I still have to figure-out a compressor bracket and pulley. Couple years ago I horse traded parts with a real nice guy I had met at the Rustmeet in Riverside and ended up with an AC system that looked new inside and out....obviously stored for 30 + years.


Here's one that I would highly suggest for all 914 v-8 motors. My motor is a bit cold blooded and doesn't like a slow idle for the first 3 minutes until it gets warmed-up. Once warmed-up, it just purrs at 600 rpm. Even with the autochoke and fast idle cam, the motor needs a faster warm-up rpm when it is cold. After some reading, I knew what I needed: An Edelbrock Idle Compensator. Normally these are for kicking-up the idle when the AC is on, I wired it so I can manually kick the idle up until the motor is warm, and then manually kick the idle down when I want. It also will kick in if the AC is turned on. It's quite slick, and works awesome.
The kit is between 100-120 at parts stores. After I bought mine I came across a guy who sold me an extra for considerably less, so if you want one I'll make you a deal!

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 8 2009, 11:41 PM

Last but not least, I picked-up a NOS 4 speed leather stitched gear knob for a teener for $15. My tranny is still a 5 speed but I never use 1st anymore, so it's the pattern I use and will ultimately end-up with when I rebuild my transmission and install the h gear I picked-up.



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Posted by: Rod Feb 11 2009, 02:12 PM

Well I just had a really enjoyable hour reading through your thread great car, well done, your attention to detail is superb, the grill is by far the best I have seen yet and I love the colour..

I live in the UK and have a 1.7L teener in need of an engine upgrade, reading that has encouraged me to think seriously about the V8 route - don't thonk there are any others here in the UK???

Cheers, nice ride.

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 28 2009, 09:57 PM

Thanks Rod. Building a V8 teener has been a lot of fun.

One of the items I've been meaning to do was drop my car 1 1/2 all the way around. I was able to pickup a nice set of Bilsteins which I added a set of 200lb springs to. The stars must have been lined-up for me today. I decided to move the circlip to the middle position to start with to see if the ride height would be where I want it....got lucky, it was just right. I figured I'd have to move the clips at least a couple of times.

Here are some current pictures with the new ride height.

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 28 2009, 09:57 PM

Another


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Posted by: dkjens Mar 1 2009, 12:54 AM

That's a very nice looking little sleeper. I bet you can acquire many new cars racing for pinkslips he he.

Posted by: pktzygt Mar 5 2009, 07:12 PM

I don't know what it is about this picture, but WOW!!!

Someday....

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 16 2009, 08:33 AM

I decided to remove the aftermarket steering wheel (5 bolt) that came with one of my parts cars and go with a MOMO (6 bolt). The black leather looks perfect with my interior.

Parts used:
MOMO adapter for a late 914...part #8082
MOMO 13" wheel...with my gauge cluster it's perfect
Turn signal canceling ring with horn contact...113-415-660-A (bug aftermarket part that fits Beetles 71-79, Ghia 71-74, Bus 74-79) This part is a great addition for MOMOs on our cars.

Tips: I used a waver thin washer on top of the cclip that is a stop for the adapter on the steering column. This gave me the little bit more space that I wanted between where the adapter and steering column meet.

For the horn button, I took the large washer that goes under the big steering wheel nut and soldered a ground wire to the washer. Some MOMO horn buttons have one connection while others have two (hot and ground). Eventually I'll put a porsche horn button on (I think) and I'll be setup for both types of horn buttons.

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 16 2009, 09:00 AM

This is a little bit of a side trip to my thread, but I've been looking for quite a while for a good deal on a trailer (my 914 chariot) for my 914. I finally found one that had everything I wanted & more for a good used price of $1300. I'll paint the trailer semi-gloss black to go with my 914.
Features:

• It’s a low boy trailer with a very gentle 3' dove tail....my car is very low to the ground and I wanted a trailer that would be very easy for loading. I also have water lines under my car to add to the mix.
• The trailer doesn't need ramps it's a full tilt trailer. Mounted on the front is a large hydraulic ram that can be operated by hand pumping, or it also has an air pressure device mounted to the hydraulic ram that when connected to an air source will operate the ram tilting the trailer.
• Extra wide diamond plate runners...the 914's wheel based is exactly dead center on them....some trailers the runners are space out wider.
• New 3000 lb electric winch with hand control inside the tool box mounted up front.
• 2 5/16 ball
• Hitch connector is the horse trailer type that allows you to slide into a trailer, not the typical ball type.
• Brand new tires

Bottom line, it's a great trailer for the price well suited for hauling a 914....I'm thrilled.

Posted by: dkjens Mar 16 2009, 12:40 PM

Nice trailer. I bought the $80.00 wireless color back-up camera from Pep Boys to allow me to hook up to my toy-hauler on my own, love it.

Posted by: JRust Mar 16 2009, 01:26 PM

Nice Mark, Great buy & definately well suited for all the parts cars you bring home. It's been a while so you should be coming accross one this week .

Seriously though it's a nice trailer. Be kind of a pain to open your car door to get out. Guess that is only the case if you drive it up. With your winch that will be a piece of cake. Good score

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 16 2009, 06:08 PM

Hey Jamie. Actually you load the car with the trailer in the tilt mode. When in tilt, the doors easily clear the fenders and open and close. So if you drive it up in tilt, just drive up, stop, get out, lower the tilt...pretty trick...or, like you said, just drive half way and let the winch pull it the rest.


Little paint and TLC and my 914 chariot is ready for the road.

Posted by: TC 914-8 Mar 16 2009, 10:39 PM

Hi Mark,

Excelent score, I have an eye out for a trailer too. hope I can find a deal like that.

Posted by: charliew Mar 19 2009, 09:56 AM

The car really looks sleeper and nice.

It also looks like it has trailer brakes. Actually if the doors will clear the 914 is light enough you could push it by hand to center the weight over the axle after you get out. You might want to make some chocks that drop in some holes in the floor to set the front wheels against when pulling on to avoid rolling into the front braces. Just pull up till it touches the stops, lower it, and roll it back to where you want it. If it's running you could also back it on.

You might want to look for a tool box to put beside the ram to hold the tiedowns and maybe some chain and a come along and gloves incase some unforseen thing happens to the winch. Jegs had the best prices on tie downs when I got mine but check other places also.

It's amazing how many new friends you will make once they know you have a car trailer and how many things can get screwed up when you loan it out. Bent wheels, knocked of dust covers and tail lights usually are where to check when it gets back home.

Posted by: computers4kids Apr 23 2009, 07:21 PM

I decided to make an investment...that is, in my car--I bought a Renshift. I've been drewling over this shifter by JWest engineering for quite a while, but always seemed to need something more important. I always thought my shifting was pretty good...that is for a 914. Even so I pulled the orginal one and went for it. What an amazing piece of work. Along with the shifter I also installed all new bushings (originally I thought they were OK, but the cup bushing had cracked somewhere in time, which explained why my 4th-5th shift was not quite right).

Posted by: computers4kids Apr 23 2009, 07:23 PM

Wow...what a difference! My 914 now shifts like a modern car, each shift feels so positive. I can't rave enough about this improvement, one of the best things I've done. Now with the new cocoa mats that just arrived, I'm pretty happy with the way it all turned out.


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Posted by: JRust Apr 23 2009, 08:13 PM

Glad you got the adjustments all worked out. I am definately going to pony up for a REnnshift after I finish the LE. Looking forward to seeing your car in person very soon

Posted by: computers4kids May 2 2009, 05:48 PM

One of the issues that I had to work out (aggravated when I lowered my car) was the tight clearance of the OEM shift coupler and the SBC fan belt. When moving into 2nd and 4th gears the rod rotates the coupler and would rub the fan belt.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=95041&hl=


Thanks to Stephen (smdubovsky) a solution was found. Stephen makes six rods using a 360 degree rotational coupler. Stephen's machine talents built just the coupler portion for me, which replaced the OEM coupler. Now I have almost 5/8 of an inch clearance through all gears. As an added bonus of the couplers design along with the newly installed Renshift, I have a nice shifting v8 914 now. I can't thank Stephen enough for his helpfulness and talents.

Posted by: computers4kids May 2 2009, 05:58 PM

I also added some tie-down brackets from David Lee to make securing the 914 to the trailer easy. His rear shock bolt brackets were a no brainer bolt-on.

However, the front loops that attached to the torsion bar mounting points just hung down too far. My car is very low, especially with the spoiler. The loops hung down a a couple of inches below the spoiler. I wasn't happy with the look or the fact the loops would drag if I tried to load it on trailer. It was my lowering of the car that made the problem.

So I decided to mount my old flat tow kit and remove the cross bar. Then I removed the tie down loops from the brackets they were welded too. Now with a set of tow bar pins, adding or removing the loops are simple when needed. Nothing shows when not pinned, yet hangs down to nicely clear the spoiler for the tie-down straps when trailering.

Posted by: computers4kids May 9 2009, 10:52 PM

A little bored today, so I decided to build a flap for the dizzy cutout. Not really necessary since, you can't see anything once the targa lid is in the trunk....which is usually 99.99% of the time. I almost always have the top off.

Posted by: computers4kids May 9 2009, 10:54 PM

Also had a little surprise when I went to put the targa top on for the first time--nothing that a razor blade couldn't fix...early lid brackets rubber bumpers are taller than late lid bracket bumpers.

WCR2009 in just a few days...I'm ready--it will be so much fun. Car is on the trailer and ready to go.

Posted by: JRust May 9 2009, 11:50 PM

What you mean your car is working allready? Thats just not right . There are still a few days left

Seriously though good to know some are ready. Trailer looks nice repainted. Be seeing you soon

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 5 2009, 09:13 PM

Today I had the chance to put my car on a chasis dyno and get a starting point for some tuning to come. It produced 305 lbs of torque at the rear wheels in 4th gear. I'll have to play with the timing and throttle linkage before I run it again. I would also like to put on a quieter set of mufflers to replace the turbos...they sound great, but a little too loud for me below 2,000 rpm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0z5TV72aFo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0z5TV72aFo

Posted by: JRust Jun 5 2009, 09:37 PM

I love v8 914's

Posted by: dkjens Jun 5 2009, 09:48 PM

That thing is so quiet, how can you think it's loud? And the only time it spends under 2000rpm is when at a red light he he.

Posted by: dakotaewing Jun 5 2009, 10:22 PM

What was the HP?

Posted by: pjhaun Jun 5 2009, 11:32 PM

What was the brand name of the Dyno machine?

Posted by: slow914 Jun 6 2009, 01:14 AM

What are you plans now, that car is so dialed and tight I cant imagine improving on it?

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 6 2009, 09:45 AM

Well, that's a good question. My torque curve was no where near maxed and steadily climbing, but I couldn't get the rpms. This motor is a 305 truck motor that was built for a circle track car and should rev in the 6-7 range with no problem. I wasn't getting even near that. All I know about the motor is it was new, has headers, Eldebrock torquer manifold, 650 carb, cam for sure but who knows what (sounds pretty healthy) vortec heads and roller rockers. Unfortunately, the motor was built by a shop for another person. It would help to know what really is inside. It has about 250 miles on the motor now. So, a combination of not getting full throttle, possibly not enough full advance and maybe under carbed kept the rpms down. I'm thinking it shoud break 300, but looks to be around 270 now to the rear wheels--not sure. I was really kind of suprised because the car really hauls ass. This motor stock is used to hauling around a 5,000 pound trunk, so with that kind power curve in a 914 that's 1/2 of that, well....makes for a nice ride.


PowerDyne SuperFlow WinDyn V


Well, I'm perfectly happy with the car now, other than I want to make it quieter under 2,000 rpm. For me, I just want to make sure that the motor is tuned for the street and getting what it is capable of under those conditions.

You can't imagine the grin on my face when some guy is showing off for his gal in his hot rod next to me, only to be handed his lunch by a 914 VW Porsche

Posted by: JRust Jun 6 2009, 11:10 AM

Amen Brother! I wasted some little shit with his girlfriend just the other day. Was funny to see the surprise on his face. Of course I only do it to 60 just to show them it's there. I don't want to get a ticket or cause any traffic problems. Funny when they catch up though . You can see the what does he have in there look???

On another note Mark I found a compete FI sysytem for my car. I am still researching it but it is a birect bolt on deal. Wiring everything will be a bit of a chore but doesn't look to extreme. I've got some good articles from the MGv8 guys on it. My worry is height wise. DOesn't look lik eit sits up much higher than my carb but probably does. So I'll have to check that out when it arrives.

Cool to see that dyno run. Kind of a trip watching your wheels cranking away while your car doesn't move

Posted by: charliew Jun 6 2009, 02:48 PM

302 z28's were advertised at about 390 hp stock without headers. They were really about 425-450 hp. with headers and maybe a 700 cfm carb at about 7200rpms. They did not have heads as good as vortec's. 650cfm is enough carb for 400 hp at 6-7k in a 302. If the motor was built for a truck it could have a high torque low rpm cam. You need at least 1/2 inch of lift at the valve. About 36 degrees total with 10 initial advance. A high reving sbc really needs a good ati balancer to keep the crank balanced at high rpms.

A good thing is the 901 might live a little longer with only 300ft lb.

Posted by: dkjens Jun 6 2009, 04:40 PM

My 283 is running like crap right now, could it be the Edlebrock 750 carburetor he he. The plugs look perfect but you can smell the fumes when driving and it's not untill you floor it that it runs well without misses. I am looking for a 550-600cfm carb right now.
I am going to buy a 350 back from a friend I sold it to. I will also get a sb ch single turbo set up with it. I will run the 350 while rebuilding my 283 for turbo. I have a set of LT1 heads and intake manifold from a Camaro. I will modify those heads and use them with the intake, run 8.0:1 or 8.5:1 compression, build a Megasquirt fuel injection system and run a big ar.. untercooler in my trunk lid.
Compared to the 350, I really like how the 283 likes to spend its time at 3000+ revs, it just isn't strong enough as is, but that can and will be changed.

Posted by: charliew Jun 6 2009, 04:50 PM

dkjens, Lt1 is reverse flow coolant isn't it? also the ports are different for the intake and there isn't a distributor on the LT1 intake. The waterpump runs off the camshaft and the ignition is under the waterpump on the front. Do you mean cast iron vortec heads?

Posted by: dkjens Jun 6 2009, 11:33 PM

charliew,
Yes, I know the LT1 is not a bolt on head, but it can be modified to work on a gen 1 engine. I will probably use an EDIS8 for ignition and a Megasquirt for fuel injection and the LT1 Camaro intake manifold.

Posted by: marks914 Jun 7 2009, 01:20 AM

I had a 305 in mine before I went to the 302 The 305 is a good, torquey engine, the shortcoming is the heads. The Vortech heads is the way to go, the small bore on the 305 does not lend itself to the larger valve heads from larger bore blocks. You should be able to get well over 300HP out of it, but the long stroke is more for torque, not rpms. Also, if you want to spin it over 6400, you really need some trick valvetrain, or solid lifters and ignition. My HEI gives up 6500-6700, kind of a built-in rev limiter. The valves start to float around 6700, but I am running full roller hydraulic lifters.The 305 is now in my 35 chevy, which I really need to work on and get on the road st some point.
If you want to quiet it down a bit, try some resonator tips. Worked wonders on my car. The neighbors were getting upset when I pulled between the houses at 5:00 in the morning.

Your car is looking good.

Mark

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2135067100057582025mXJAcO

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2511335820057582025FETpvF

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 7 2009, 12:37 PM

Adding resonator tips was one of the options I'm exploring. In my setup I have dual tips on turbo mufflers, in other words I would have to purchase 4 resonator tips which would run over $100. Now, if the tips would do the trick then I'd pull a a bill out of my wallet pretty fast. I'm just not to sure how much it's going to make a difference. You feel it made a significant impact to the noise level of your car? I presume you had the low end resonation/drone before you added the tips...or just loud?

I've also seen "insert" options as well: cones or baffles. That option will cost about $150...but do they work is the question. You can insert the cone after the headers or before the muffler



I just don't have any room for larger mufflers or that would make the most sense...plus my turbos are brand new, but hey there in the trash can if I can find a better option. I even thought about an additional inline glass pack before the axle...but no room again, unless I go to short headers. When I added a crossover pipe it helped a ton, but I want the low end drone gone (mostly).

Now, Drivability I heard has a tone port connected to his exhaust. I just don't know how that works--I meant to connect with him at Cars and Coffee in Irvine but I forgot.

So what-do-ya-think? Resonator tips...diff. mufflers, inserts, dynomat or ?
Oh, there is one other option...never drive slower than 2,000 rpm

Posted by: messix Jun 7 2009, 12:58 PM

i have an idea!.......... buy a honda!...... suck it up your driving a HOT ROD for gods sake! what... are old or some thing! jeez you old geezer!

really how bad is it?

btw niether of those "baffles" shown will help you low freq problem, those are "racin mufflers " and do not attenuate the sound much at all.

Posted by: charliew Jun 7 2009, 01:10 PM

Sometimes the drone can be improved with better timing and also the long headers can be causing it in the collector. I haven't tried it but the insert in the collector might help, it's really a muffler for street rods that are only running headers though. Or drag cars that have to have a lower exhaust level. Higher compression also will cause a drone. You might want to check up on supertraps as they can be adjusted with more or less diffuser plates.

I wonder if dkjens realizes that the vortecs are the cast iron equalivent of the lt1 aluminum heads but were cast iron for the chev trucks. Same port and combustion and valve configuration but designed for the top distributor. If you want aluminum heads go with the new design heads that everyone made to copy the vortec design.

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 7 2009, 09:18 PM

Silence is Golden Problem solved...gone, adios...with just $3 of stuff from the hardware store.

Initially, when I first was putting my car together my turbo mufflers had just the one outlet on both sides of the car (single in and single out). I wanted dual tips so I had the muffler shop weld on dual chrome tips on both sides of the car and customized the lower valance. Obviously one tip went on the muffler stub and the other was just welded to the back end of the muffler. OK, so now I ask the muffler shop to blow a hole in the end of the muffler inside the tip so exhaust is coming out of both tips. I asked if that was going to be a issue and they said "shouldn't make a difference." The car didn't have exhaust when I first came in so I had no comparison when I had left.





Fast Forward. After reading and reading, I kept having this nagging feeling that perhaps I didn't have enough back pressure in the muffler for it to work as designed. So today I looked down inside the tips with a flashlight and I could see the difference between the real outlet and the one I had added on. The way the chambers in muffler was designed, I essentially had created a way for the exhaust to pass right through the muffler. To see if my hunch was correct, I built some block off plates and bolted them in the second tip on both side sealing it back to original as a temporary measure.





Low and behold, my car was an entirely different animal afterwords...all my problems of resonance went away and the car mellowed out considerably. Perfect! So "messix" the old geezer is finally happy. I'm driving my "hot rod" with a smile on my face and my stereo on, OH, I can hear it now. Although, I will miss being able to set off car alarms just for fun

Now, I'll probably just tack weld the block off plates permanently and call it a day.

Posted by: LS1944 Jun 20 2009, 01:47 PM

Great job! I have a chevy powered 944, it's a fun car but I can't imagine all that power and torque in a lightweight 914. Must be a blast!

Craig

Posted by: TC 914-8 Jun 21 2009, 01:08 AM

F--ing sweet Mark, Keep up the good work, well talk about it when you make it to the PNW.
Troy wishes he had a V-8

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 15 2009, 03:55 PM

Do I have a bullsyeye painted on my 914? Sure seems like it...the last two times I drove it downtown I almost got creamed. I decided to add a 3rd brake light, not stock, but maybe it'll help. Oh, I guess I don't have to worry about not being stock



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Posted by: computers4kids Aug 15 2009, 03:57 PM

xxx


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Posted by: computers4kids Sep 6 2009, 11:13 PM

In two weeks I will be attending Dr. Evil's So Cal transmission clinic to install an H gear instead of my stock 5th for better freeway cruising. I'll be bringing three transmissions, two from parts cars and one from my v8 914.

I figured it would be easier to just pull the motor since I wanted to also install my air conditioning. With all all mocking-up of the compressor mounts to put the compressor to be driven off the alternator, I wanted to make sure I got it right with everything lining up properly. The load on the motor should be more balanced having the ac an alternator on one side and the water pump on the other.

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 6 2009, 11:14 PM

side view


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Posted by: JRust Sep 6 2009, 11:45 PM

Wow it's my old buddy Mark. I thought you were all done with your car. LOL

Funny I dropped my motor too. I am going to the good DR's PNW clinic this next weekend. I am taking a total of 3 transmissions too. I am adding an "h" gear to my v8 tranny too! Flipping crazy man

We need to talk man. Big doings at the Rust compound

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 21 2009, 10:03 PM

While I had my motor out, I figured it was a good time to install my fuse panel upgrade. Excellent workmanship, it fit beautifully and was very well made. The only thing I wish was different was the fuse numbers are printed upside down...not a big deal. Well worth your time. Plan on an hour or two to take your time to install.


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Posted by: computers4kids Sep 21 2009, 10:10 PM

I just got back from the So. CA Dr. Evil clinic...great fun, and I learned a lot. I ended-up with a real nice rebuild with a newly geared 5th gear...an "h" gear. The motor and transmission are already back in the car and it should be running in a day or two.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LobBZn0m8x4

AC project is almost all done as well. I installed a nice parallel flow condensor, new barrier lines, new drier, expansion valve, safety switch, and like new DPD evaporator that I had been saving for years. Once I get the car running I will need to evacuate the system and then charge it up with R134.


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Posted by: computers4kids Sep 21 2009, 10:14 PM

condenser and drier


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Posted by: computers4kids Sep 21 2009, 10:18 PM

closed back up


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Posted by: TC 914-8 Sep 24 2009, 11:45 PM

Looks sharp Mark, I like the fuse panel, where is it from?
Let me know how the new gearing works out.

AC in a 914???? Take the top off for gods sake and drive faster I guess when you live where its 105* 4 months out of the year you need it

I just got back from working in Bellingham all week. I started my car to check for the dreaded noise. it started and ran like a champ. 60-65 psi oil press, I'll take her out on the road in the AM.

T

Posted by: TC 914-8 Sep 24 2009, 11:50 PM

I've got a 30 pounder of 134A in the garage, and a vacume pump with fresh oil.
Bring her up an I'll charge it up for free.

Posted by: zx-niner Sep 25 2009, 12:33 AM

What, you don't work under your dash with your back on the seat and your legs sticking out the door? The numbers are perfect from that perspective! Removing the steering wheel helps, of course.

Can't wait to get my new fuse panel installed.

Posted by: computers4kids Sep 26 2009, 08:46 PM

Well, I installed my rebuilt 901 with the re-geared 5th "h" gear today...and low and behold it worked beautifully. No grinding, smooth shifting, and no funny noises! I even had left over parts...LOL, then of course one of my 901s became the bone yard for many...which was cool.

I can't believe how many rpm I carved off with the new h gear--somewhere around 500-700 at 65. I like to go to the Central Coast which is a 3 hour drive. That means my engine will have turned almost 100,000 less times in one trip. Thats' got to be a big plus in the gas mileage department. I was getting 20mpg, it will be interesting to see the mileage now. With 305 lbs of torque to the rear wheels there is no lag between 4th and 5th...perfect.

Dr. Evil thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!

Posted by: TC 914-8 Sep 26 2009, 09:32 PM

[quote name='computers4kids' date='Sep 26 2009, 07:46 PM' post='1219016']
Well, I installed my rebuilt 901 with the re-geared 5th "h" gear today...and low and behold it worked beautifully. No grinding, smooth shifting, and no funny noises! I even had left over parts...LOL, then of course one of my 901s became the bone yard for many...which was cool.




I am truly jealous,


My trans will be my next project.

Mark is the man, I mean Marks car is the Sh-T.

Great job

Posted by: computers4kids Nov 21 2009, 10:13 AM

Decided to just update this thread a bit. I decided to install a stock radio in place of the modern stereo, but with a twist. The neat thing about this stock radio, it plays Internet music stations via my iphone or ipod beautifully. The inline jack that I plug into my iphone/ipod carries the music signal and charges the device at the same time. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=100916.

Other than the radio, I haven't done much to the car, except for driving it all over ---quite a novel idea for a 914.

Posted by: Scatterbrain Nov 21 2009, 11:59 AM

I have had a great time reading this thread! I am starting my conversion as we speak and wanted to thank you for taking the time to post all your progress and solutions. Huge help for those of us who are converting to the "dark side"

Im still in rust removal, cut and paste mode. Thread gave me the little boost i needed to get my ass back to the shop and keep grinding!

Thanks, Keith

Posted by: johnnie5 Nov 21 2009, 12:15 PM

Exactly what I was thinking....stealth sleeper. VERY NICE JOB.

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 21 2010, 09:59 PM

Well, a little over a year ago this v8 914 roared to life and made it to the WCR2009 in Irvine, CA. Haven't done much to it other than just enoying it...a whole year and never once stuck on jack stand.

Here we are with the WCR2010 only a couple months away, so I decided to do a few things to the project: Had the top painted, installed a new brass shift bushing and plastic console cover, and new bumper tops from 914rubber.com.

I had bought all the materials to blacken the recesses of the fuchs, but just couldn't get myself to do it.



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Posted by: computers4kids Dec 20 2010, 10:04 AM

Note to self.....It's been a long time since I've updated this thread--Well, it's been over 2 years since this project hit the road and I've been pretty much just enjoying the car as it is.

I can't believe how much I enjoy driving this car with the added hp. These cars are ideal for power infusions. I did have my stock wheel recovered and the pad re-stained by Dallas Custom Wheels, which turned out awesome.

Since I sold my automatic 914, I've been really thinking lately "what's next?" I really like the v8 teener the way it is, so I probably need to get another project.

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 27 2011, 12:19 PM

Gosh...it's been a long Winter! Finally had to do a few upgrades to the car to keep from going stir crazy.

I installed an MSD 6al with a rev limiter switch using the magnetic pickup in my HEi dizzy as the trigger. The ignition module in the early GM HEi were limited to about 4-5 amps and 3K rpm before the spark began to degrade. The MSD should give be a better burn at higher rpms as well as a smoother idle...we'll see.

The stock coil in the cap is new, and rated at about 43,000 volts. I haven't decided whether to go with a MSD in the cap coil, external blaster coil or might not even bother. I've read quite a bit and I'm not sure if I would see any benefits from a change with a 300hp chevy motor.

Spark plug gap. MSD says to begin around .035 and work up in increments to about .050 to find your best performance gap. Their thinking is the wider the gap the larger your spark will be to better ignite the chamber. Anyone have any thoughts on this??

Posted by: Mike D. Mar 27 2011, 12:57 PM

Different beast, but I run the MSD6AL and Blaster coil on my 3.0 six. The 3.0 has a mag pick up already in the dizzy. I started at .035 plug gap, then did .040 and finally landed on .045. I didn't notice any difference at all. So I just left it at .045 because I was tired of pulling them out and It runs great. I do know that I run rich at idle (Webber 48's) but you would never know by looking at the plugs. The low rpm multispark really keeps the plugs clean.
Good Luck

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 27 2011, 05:18 PM

IIRC Im at .040. And im running the big HEI coil


Plenty of spark for me, I run out of gas in my setup before I run out of spark

Posted by: computers4kids Jun 7 2011, 10:26 PM

During the v8 conversion, I went originally with 911 5 lug, all four corners, BMW 320i calipers on the front and stock calipers on the rear, porterfield all four corners--solid 914-6 stock rotors and stock solid 911 rotors up front.

I just installed ventilated rotors up front with aluminum Brembos, 48 pistons on my 3" 911 struts. The best part was it was all complete bolt on...no machine work whatsover. This has been the easiest upgrade I have ever done. The calipers alone are 3lbs lighter for each one. They work great.

Now for the rears. I'm thinking of going ventilated rotors with a vent kit for my stock calipers...just not crazy about 914 rear calipers. I could put some brembos on the back and loose the ebrake, but my bias would be pretty srewed up I suppose. The BMW calipers would bolt right up, but then I couldn't go with ventilated rotors and no ebrake. Decisions.

Posted by: JRust Jun 7 2011, 10:41 PM

Nice Mark! I can't wait to see it in person again at WCR

Posted by: andys Jun 8 2011, 10:30 AM

Mark,

I haven't investigated to see how adaptable they would to a 914, but Ford has a caliper with handbrake, as does GM (metric). Cheap, and available everywhere. If the piston sizes and rotor thicknesses are compatible, perhaps they might be worth a look?

Andys

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 8 2011, 10:26 PM

Rear brakes finally got finished. I ended-up adding ventilated rotors and Eric's V-calipers. Together with a new ATE 19mm master and the aluminum Brembos up front, the brakes seem to be a good combination for my teener. I still need to bleed a little more air, but pretty happy.
Before and After

Luckly, there was space for the vcaliper spacer. Tire definitely fills the wheel well.

Posted by: strawman Oct 9 2011, 12:50 AM

Hi Mark --

That's purty! How about some pics of the front brakes?

Geoff

Posted by: moparrob Oct 9 2011, 01:00 AM

Are Eric's V-calipers different than stock rears?

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 9 2011, 07:29 AM

Hi Geoff!
I included a picture of Eric's polished Brembos for reference. I sourced my Brembos elsewhere and didn't polish them...just painted them black.

Eric's Vcalipers are stock rears with a special spacer plate to accomodate the wider vented rotors. Eric also custom makes new stainless brake pins and springs due to the wider caliper. His workmanship is truly a piece of art.
Before and After Fronts


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: computers4kids Dec 11 2011, 11:32 PM

Stereo Update, I love it!
Pioneer 4 channel amp (GM-D9500F)
75 RMS x 2 channels (A)
150 RMS bridged channel (B)
150 Watt 8" footwell sub (morph's 8" sub kit)
2 Polk Audio 4 x 6 50RMS (150 peak)
No Head Unit--ipod/iphone

I thought I wouild post a few pics. The combination really sounds great together and for the most part it all is hidden, looking stock. The floor sub was suppose to fit with my cocoa mats covering them. Unfortunately, there is not enough room for my passenger mat now. Between the stock AC and the raised speaker on the enclosure there is very little space--not even enough for a mat. I'll either have to shorten the passenger mat to the base of the enclosure or see about recessing the speaker into the extension ring on the enclosure. Not sure at this point if there is enough depth for the speaker provided in the kit. Anyway, if I were to do it again, I would probably have just bought the enclosure and found a shallow sub.

I shortned the deposit box between the seats and placed the amp in the back half. The front of the box holds my ipod, small items. The top still hinges as it originally did. I used a 6 inch strip of 3 inch wide velco where the hinge used to attach to box. The hinge is actually velcroed to the top of the amp.

I added a amp switch and volume control on the outside front of the deposit box for conveince.






It killed me to do so, but it all worked out pretty nice. I cut a hole in my my cocoa mat which allowed it to lay flush on the floor.



Attached image(s)

Posted by: Andyrew Dec 12 2011, 10:25 AM

CLEAN!

Looks great man!!

Posted by: chads74 Jun 23 2012, 09:34 AM

Can any one tell me where I can find a body kit like this? I have found similar rear flares at auto atlanta, but no luck on the front or maybe its custom. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

Posted by: messix Jun 23 2012, 12:04 PM

it look like 930 flares

Posted by: chads74 Jun 24 2012, 09:05 AM

Yeah they do look like the 930 flares, do you of a company that makes them for the 914?

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 8 2014, 07:40 PM

Recently, I've been fixing and updating things that have bothered me since I did this conversion years ago.

1. Install one of McMark's Master Cylinder brace. I've always had a sort of soft brake pedal, so I was hoping to get a firmer pedal removing any possible flex.


2. Discovered the right front wheel had a bit of wheel bearing slop which in turn was opening the pad on the passenger caliper. Adjusted the nut properly, clearance all the calipers, and bled brakes. The pedal is hard as a rock now...


3. The 1 1/4 water line that comes out of the "typical" Renegade water setup requires a sharp 90 degree turn to properly follow the floor of the car to the radiator up front. This would cause the hose to kink, even though once the system pressurized the hose would fill out...it always bothered me. I installed an aluminum 90 degree tube to replace the area of the hose that would kink.



4. Four over 3 years my Renegade dual fan setup worked flawlessly. Both fans were setup to come on at once at full speed. Wanting to reduce the noise of the fans, I rewired them according to the diagram below that utilizes 3 relays to create a multi speed circuit.

Thanks to the 914 community for discovering that one of the relays I was sold was incorrect (two 87s, instead of an 87 and a 87a) which really through me for a loop.

Here is what I started with.



Schematic for using 3 relays and how it works...

Inside look




A lot of wires...



Electrical box


Done. I can't believe how quiet the fans are now at 1/2 speed. I've been very fortunate to have a cooling system that works awesome and can get away most of the time on the slower fan speeds.
Sensor 1 triggers at 180 degrees both fans at 1/2 speed
Sensor 2 triggers at 200 degrees at full speed on both fans

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 9 2014, 09:29 AM

Glad to see you finally got that ironed out.

Posted by: computers4kids Feb 9 2014, 11:22 AM

5. Integrated a AEM Wideband A/F gauge in the housing of a spare 911 clock.


6. And of course, everything once going to the battery positive terminal (OEM and what I added) is now fused with one of Tom's kits.

Posted by: callplatinum Apr 2 2014, 10:25 PM

WOW!

Posted by: Tomgayer Feb 23 2018, 09:31 AM

I put shroud around fans for better cooling  fanstemplate.bmp ( 920.44k ) Number of downloads: 104
 fanssteelshroud.bmp ( 944.14k ) Number of downloads: 96