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Posted by: 7275914911 Jun 3 2008, 11:26 PM

i believe i have seen them on the site but can not find them now. would like to see the wiring inparticular.

thanks in advance for any help
jkp

Posted by: McMark Jun 4 2008, 02:09 AM

Adding a second relay/solenoid to the circuit is a band-aid. Either your starter is going out or your wiring is old/corroded.

Posted by: Gint Jun 4 2008, 08:18 AM

That it may be, but on this car it's a bandaid that works flawlessly. It was put on by the PO, so I have no idea why it was installed. But this car has never failed to start.

Anyway, back to the original request. Here's a pic:

Posted by: 7275914911 Jun 4 2008, 08:41 AM

Thanks, Gint..

I to understand it is a "Band-Aid", but that is what I need in the meantime....


JKP

Posted by: bbrown Jun 4 2008, 10:09 AM

What is the part # for Ford solenoid?

Posted by: 7275914911 Jun 4 2008, 10:36 AM

FLAPS in my area ran a 70's model f150.
I will get the # when I am at lunch today. Mine looks like the one in the pic on this thread.

JKP

Posted by: 7275914911 Jun 4 2008, 04:00 PM

Duralast
F496
Starter Solenoid

JKP

Posted by: bryanc Jun 4 2008, 04:08 PM

The ones I've seen were mounted to the back of the engine tin, not the starter....

I don't really agree that it's a band-aid. The relay reduces the amount of current running through your starter switch, thus lengthening the life of the contacts. Also, the kickback current is smaller for the relay than the Porsche starter solenoid, again lengthening the life of the starter switch contacts.

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 4 2008, 05:03 PM

pics


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Gint Jun 4 2008, 05:11 PM

I prefer it on the starter although as I indicated I didn't put it there. And I agree. I like the idea of having a relay in the circuit.

And my car always starts.

Posted by: Rand Jun 4 2008, 05:18 PM

Just curious, has anyone seen the starter switch fail because of the contacts having too much current running through them? I've seen many of them fail, but it's usually because of a crack in the plastic casing.

The starter switch is only passing enough current to trigger the solenoid. The solenoid acts as a relay for the starter. I'm with McMark - adding another relay for the solenoid is a band aid. I know, it works. Not dissing it. But personally I would rather clean up the resistance problems than add another widget.

I removed the extra relay the PO added to my car and cleaned things up. And my car always starts.

Posted by: Gint Jun 4 2008, 05:49 PM

Truth be told the one I replaced in this car the day after I bought it (and before driving it home 1000 miles) was cracked. But I still like the idea of a relay in the circuit. I think it's better to have one than not.

And my 914 always starts!

Posted by: Rand Jun 4 2008, 06:05 PM

Posted by: SLITS Jun 4 2008, 07:37 PM

Have you ever looked at the contacts in a broken switch and seen the black from arcing? Lots of heat generated thru that plastic piece too.

I have a car that supplies 12 VDC to the starter, but won't kick the starter (and it has a new switch). Changed solenoids ... same problem. I put the Ford solenoid in ... works perfect. It's the only car I have used the "bandaid" on ... just got tired of cleaning contacts to no avail.

Posted by: 7275914911 Jun 4 2008, 11:18 PM

Amazing...

'Band-Aid' or not, it seems to work...

I had previously cleaned all ground connections, beefed up tranny to body strap and re-routed battery ground to tranny case(it was grounded on the body by PO who had moved battery to trunk). This seemed to work for a while, BUT. So starter/solenoid was next stop.

Ford Solenoid- $10; 4 Ga Strap- $4; 914 that always starts-priceless

I went with the spot on the tin instead of on the starter. Looks more stable on the tin. It uses both mounting holes in solenoid! I used screws to mount with the thought of going back later with a helper and replace screws with bolts because of vibration.



jkp