Can someone explain this to me?
Cause they leak more oil?
Easy, there only 12 TR6's left in the world. Many more 914's. Supply and demand.
I don't know that they actually do.
I've seen some very nice TR6's go for 10 - 15k and I've seen some very nice 914's go for the same.
Because TR6 owners are stoopid, stoopid people?
Just a theory...
because people like to play with lucas wiring?
cause it looks better and its faster....
Rich
There are many on this board that call other people car snobs...
TR6's are pretty cool rides. Always have been. And unless the values have really gone up since I was into Triumphs a few years back I don't think they are much more expensive than the equivalent 4 cylinder 914.
OK, I had a look and they are a little more expensive than a 4 cylinder 914. Closer to /6's sort of. Actually they're all over the place. And there would appear to be more TR6's around than 914's.
TR6:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/cqtranslate/_W0QQ_catZ80757QQ_msppZQQ_pcatsZ6449Q2c6001Q2c6000
914:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Cars- Trucks___W0QQMake247a0eZPorsche4bd8b000QQModel4710b09Z914dc1cQQ_catZ6430QQ_fxdZ1
QQ_pcatsZ6013Q2c6001Q2c6000QQ_sopZ10
Mmmmmmmmmrust
I am not a snob. I am just better than anybody else.
This should be obvious to everyone...
They do??? Never seen this for myself. Can get a really badass tr6 for 20 grand. Can't say you can do the same with a 914.
They do have a loyal following and they are fun cars. I had a '68 TR250 (a TR4 IRS with the 6 cly) it was a one year only model. I've seen quite of few of these go well north of 20K. I use to call it my "Flexi-Flyer" pulling in and out of a steep driveway you could see gaps change in the panels.
Paul
Sounds like a well built car
With all the electrical problems these cars have I just don't want to bother. They are neat looking though.
Because we like the Limeys more than the Krauts. The Limeys have remained our steadfast allies ever since we beat the crap outta them.
Possibly because the TR-6 was the pinnacle ot the Triumph lineage. The evolution of the TR-2, -3, -4, -4A, -5 (almost unknown), -6, -7 ( ), not to mention the lesser Heralds, Spitfires, GT-6s left the TR-6 as a sort of "high water mark" for the marque. The 914, by comparison, holds a relatively obscure place in the PORSCHE firmament and isn't perceived as the achievement of its' manufacturer as the TR-6 is by its adherents.
Paul
TR6 is pretty ...thats why.
I want a TR8
No you don't. One of the biggest pieces of crap & rust ever assembled
They do have a nice look, the top comes off. Now for the bad...
The tr6 is a love hate relationship. I have owned 3 of them. I loved the cars and they hated me. So I decided to give up on them I would really like to have a tr4a some day though.
I think the price difference between a nice tr6 vs a 914 is pretty big but if you compare 914-6 vs tr6 I think the tr6 is cheaper. IMHO
so + 1 on the supply and demand theory
What's the price difference between a cherry 914/6 and a cherry TR8?
English cars...got help us. I didn't learn the first time, I actually owned three of them.
My Austin Healy had a light switch....I labeled the three positions on the dash as Dim, Flicker and Dead Short......it was supposed to actuate the "city lights" the driving lights and the mains....all three positions worked everything.
Let's see, positive ground? Yeah right....not metric, not SAE...but something else.....kill me now.
My old stoopid 300/6 just sold $80 large.....great, hope it burns down the museum.
British Whitworth
I knew that...
I welded all them together and used them for a boat anchor...it rusted inside of a week..floated away and burned when it hit the surface....
i saw a cherry tr6 on interstate 1 near morro bay today.
Clean car, but unless it is a mini, im a bit fearful of british cars (hell, even the german ones can be tough enough)
I've had several Brit cars. Hardly ever drove em. Never had a TR6. I was shopping for one a couple years ago and thought the prices were in the 4-6 range... shoulda bought a couple..
Whitworth?
What is Whitworth?
Paul
The Whitworth Screw Thread System
by Robert E. Reilly, P.E.
Did you ever start to do some mechanical work on your Jaguar and discover that none of your wrenches seem to quite fit on the bolt head? A friend of mine recently bought a pre-war SS Jaguar, and he made that comment to me. I then introduced him to the Whitworth wrench, of which he had never before heard. These tools with the strange and incomprehensible markings were once common enough that even Sears Roebuck and Snap-On carried them. Now they are getting harder to find as people's memories of what they were all about fade into the mists of outdated engineering. Many owners of earlier Jaguars are to varying extents familiar with the Whitworth screw thread system, but some are not. Perhaps some other readers will find a refresher course in the Whitworth system helpful and interesting.
Before the mid-nineteenth century, nuts and bolts were individually hand-made, specifically matched and were generally not interchangeable. Serious efforts to standardize screw threads began in 1841, when Sir Joseph Whitworth proposed a standard screw thread form based on a constant thread angle of 55 degrees. This became known as the Whitworth thread, and gained acceptance in British industry. Outside diameters of bolts began at 1/8" and increased by fractional inch increments, with a whole number of threads per inch specified for each diameter. The peak and root of the thread are rounded to a radius of r=0.1373 x pitch. The depth of the thread is d=0.6403 x pitch. Pitch is the number of inches per thread, or the inverse of threads per inch.
About the same time, an American named William Sellers developed a screw thread system based on a 60 degree thread angle, which was originally called the Sellers thread, then the United States Standard or USS thread, and finally in 1948 the Unified National Series, including UNC (coarse), UNF (fine), and UNEF (extra-fine). The UNF series is sometimes called SAE (for Society of Automotive Engineers) or ANF (for American National Fine). These threads have flat peaks and roots, with the depth of the thread being d=0.649519 x pitch.
The Germans, Swiss and French each developed their own metric screw thread forms. The metric world eventually agreed in 1898 on the Systeme Internationale (SI) metric thread series, with a 60 degree thread angle, but the watchmakers and optical measuring instrument makers each still have their own special threads.
The British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine (BSF), British Standard Parallel Pipe (BSPP), and British Standard Tapered Pipe (BSTP) are all thread series based on the Whitworth screw thread form. British Association (BA) screw threads have a thread angle of 47-1/2 degrees and are based on the Swiss Thury thread. Screw threads in these series are found on all older British vehicles. BSF is commonly used on engines and drive train components and body fasteners, BA is used to attach small clips and electrical parts, BSPP is found on the banjo bolts of water pumps and SU carbs and fuel pumps, but the Jaguar parts catalogues call out ANF sizes for many large suspension fasteners.
In 1965 the British Standards Institution approved a policy statement urging British industry to regard BSW, BSF, and BA as obsolescent, to be gradually replaced by International Standards Organization (ISO) metric thread.
For some reason now lost in obscurity, the distance across the flats of Whitworth hex nuts and bolt heads is not nice sensible fractions of an inch, nor is it millimeters, nor does it follow any discernable pattern such as a percentage of the bolt diameter. You are supposed to use special Whitworth sized wrenches. The sizes stamped on Whitworth wrenches refer not to the distance between the flats, but to the diameters of the nuts and bolts they are intended to fit. In practice it turns out you can get away with using metric wrenches in most cases.
It is very important to realize that it is not safe to repair damaged Whitworth threads with UNF taps and dies, or to mix and fit BSF and UNF fasteners together. The pitch or number of threads per inch is the most obvious difference, but more important and potentially disastrous is the reduction in surface contact area between the threads, which can lead to binding when torquing, loosening in vibration or complete failure under load. BSW and UNC sizes in most cases have the same number of threads per inch, so it is very possible to get these mixed as well. If you have a ruined fastener, especially a stud or nut on the engine or in the suspension, it is worth the trouble to get the right one rather than take a chance on something else getting ruined. One source in the U.S. for British fasteners and tools is Metric & Multistandard Components Corp. in Hawthorne, NY, (Tel) 914/769-5020, with branches in Burr Ridge, IL and Dallas, TX.
Robert E. Reilly, P.E.
Reference Bibleography
1. Kent's Mechanical Engineer's Handbook, 11th ed. (1936), Wiley
2. Machinery's Handbook, 14th ed. (1951) and 23rd ed. (1988), Industrial Press
3. Marks' Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers, 8th ed. (1978) McGraw-Hill
4. Standard Handbook of Fastening and Joining, (1989) McGraw-Hill
5. Tool Engineer's Handbook, 1st ed. (1949) McGraw-Hill
6. Metric & Multistandard Components Corp. sales catalogue, copyright 1977, 1994
www.metricmcc.com
Author's Note:
After this article was published in the Classic Jaguar Association newsletter, another member from the U.K. responded by letter and stated that the hex sizes were originally governed by the commercially available steel hex bar stock sizes, in the days before automated screw machines, when nuts and bolts were cut from hex bar stock.
______________________
Table of British Screw Threads
______________________
British Thread Nominal Size/ No. Threads Hex Head Width comment
Designation Outside Diameter per Inch Across Flats
1/8 BSW 0.125" 40
3/16 BSW 0.1875 24
1/4 BSW 0.25 20 0.438 - 0.445"
5/16 BSW 0.3125 18 0.518 - 0.525
3/8 BSW 0.375 16 0.592 - 0.600
7/16 BSW 0.4375 14 0.702 - 0.710
1/2 BSW 0.5 12 0.812 - 0.820
9/16 BSW 0.5625 12 0.912 - 0.920
5/8 BSW 0.625 11 1.000 - 1.010
3/4 BSW 0.75 10 1.190 - 1.200
7/8 BSW 0.875 9 1.288 - 1.300
1" BSW 1.0" 8 1.468 - 1.480
3/16 BSF 0.1875" 32 -.340”
7/32 BSF 0.2187 28 non-preferred
1/4 BSF 0.25 26 0.438 - 0.445"
9/32 BSF 0.2812 26 non-preferred
5/16 BSF 0.3125 22 0.518 - 0.525
3/8 BSF 0.375 20 0.592 - 0.600
7/16 BSF 0.4375 18 0.702 - 0.710
1/2 BSF 0.5 16 0.812 - 0.820
9/16 BSF 0.5625 16 0.912 - 0.920
5/8 BSF 0.625 14 1.000 - 1.010
3/4 BSF 0.75 12 1.190 - 1.200
7/8 BSF 0.875 11 1.288 - 1.300
1" BSF 1.0" 10 1.468 - 1.480
0 BA 6.0 mm, 0.2362" 25.4
1 BA 5.3 mm, 0.2087" 28.2
2 BA 4.7 mm, 0.185" 31.4
3 BA 4.1 mm, 0.1614" 34.8
4 BA 3.6 mm, 0.1417" 38.5
5 BA 3.2 mm, 0.126" 43
6 BA 2.8 mm, 0.1102" 47.9
7 BA 2.5 mm, 0.0984" 52.9
8 BA 2.2 mm, 0.0866" 59.1
9 BA 1.9 mm, 0.0748" 65.1
10 BA 1.7 mm, 0.0669" 72.6
1/16 BSPP 0.3041" 28
1/8 BSPP 0.383" 28
1/4 BSPP 0.518 19
3/8 BSPP 0.656 19
1/2 BSPP 0.825 14
5/8 BSPP 0.902 14 non-preferred
3/4 BSPP 1.041 14
7/8 BSPP 1.189 14 non-preferred
1" BSPP 1.309 11
_________________________________________________________
Holy Jeebus mike, Quite the dissertation. Will there be a test?
Thanks though, I am now smarter..
Get it right Joe Bob....I 'are' smarter....
Ya need to be careful with those Triumphs.
My son-in-law has one on the farm up on cinderblocks and he made the mistake of parking his running car too close to it.
Some of the imps of darkness infected the running car....
It all started at the right rear turn signal- it quit working.....
Then it spread to the stop light...
Then to the other rear light (next on the wiring harness)....
It spread from there to the dome light and then the dash....
Headlight started to erratically dim and brighten....
Radio turned on and off at random....
Turn signals randomly worked or didn't....
Then the Imps of darkness got into the engine.....
It quit running, and after much testing and parts swapping of computer brains, ignition modules and the like,...
It was towed to the knacker......
HE and I learned, be very very careful and NEVER park too near a Brit car.....
Ken
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