OK, this will be the thread that I keep updated as I make progress. I showed up at 0800 at Christoph's place and he was ready for me with a not so glamorous chunk of metal that is my cars heart and soul.
With a little assistance, we loaded it into my Toyota Sienna, not quite I envisioned a mini-van for, and I was headed back to the house. Upon getting home I had to first make coffee then clear out some space in my tiny German garage. So that everyone has a frame of reference to the area that I am working in I have enclosed this lovely 4x6 glossy of my garage in Germany.
And, for those of you not familiar with the Toyota Sienna, a shot of the engine in the back of the van. There's a lot of room back there for the motor but, it is awkward to get in and out of when loading a motor.
Now to summarize what was accomplished on the 4th of July, engine brought home, tin, impeller and housing, exhaust, cylinder head and cylinders removed. I had difficulty removing the impeller hub. OK, I didn't get it removed, will need a puller and I don't have one unless anyone can give me any ideas how to get it off without a puller.
Now for the requisite pictures of the motor unmolested.
Now based on the initial tear down two problems presented it self first the primary issue with a lack of compression...HOLY SHIT!!! Here is what I found.
Now the cylnder itself was not pitted, it had a build up of corrosion but otherwise in good condition. So I was thinking, maybe I can just clean hone and replace the piston. Well that thought went out the window when I pulled the cylinder directly opposite to it. As you can see by the photo, problem #2.
More importantly, where did that piece of metal go? An initial look behind the piston shows a knick in the inner portion of the crankcase.
I will see if there is more significant damage when I split the case; so it begins and were off to a rocket start here at the 914 follies! Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of "never buy a car sight unseen" later in the week!
Gonna go shower and start working on the motor some more. Plan is to have it completely torn down befor the end of this weekend. I will load up some pictures to my photo bucket album and post the link a bit later.
This whole scene looks very familiar. Your garage is exactly the same as mine. I have my 914 in there up on jack stands and I have been rebuilding the motor in the basement of my house.
If it turns out your block is not good let me know. I have a good one sitting at my house right now. It is all cleaned up and tapped for the oil galley plugs.
Don't feel too bad about not being able to drive it. I pulled my engine last august but work and the wife have conspired to keep me from finishing the install. I am close now. Next couple weeks.
Gustl, I can't wait to see pictures from Austria.
I bet you will find all that metal in the sump when you split the case. You need new P/C for sure. Build a 1911/2056? May as well, as you have to buy new parts anyhow.
Get serious. With a bit of Mother's, it'll buff right out....
OK, so I didn't get as much done today as I wanted. Wife went off somewhere so I was watching the crazy child part of the morning; at least until she went over to play at the neighbors.
I did get all the pistons out, clutch plate and flywheel pulled and started to loosen the bolts to crack the case. Clutch was cracked so I will have to replace that, not a big issue.
So, as I read through Jake's process of doing the conversion from 1.7 to 2.0 I recall the mention of machining the heads to a "105mm register." I am not sure I fully understand what is meant by "register." Are we talking about the area where the valves sit that forms part of the combustion chamber? Just want to make sure I know what were talking about.
If this is the case, I did measure the area and it is measuring at 105. So the next question will be the type of crank I have and the piston rod sizes. The pistons are measuring at 94 but I don't know how much the PO prior to the PO I bought if from knew about doing a proper conversion as outlined by Jake. I have the journal and rod specs so can do the measurement for the most part with the exception of the journals as I don't have a micrometer set...yet.
I am hoping that I can formulate a plan and establish what parts I will need by Monday. I will post more pictures tomorrow.
I'll let you know if the case is toast or not. My hope is that the chunk of metal made it down to the sump as Zach predicts and didn't tear things up on its way there. Hope to find out tomorrow.
Sorry I didn't make it to Toni's shindig, let me know how it went.
Impeller hub: Get some fender washers or other large tough pieces of flat metal. Remove the fan, thread the fan bolts back into the hub. Trap the metal pieces between the ends of the bolts and the crankcase. Give each bolt 1/4 turn at a time, and the hub will pop off.
Register: That's the area of the head that the cylinder fits into.
Case is split! So after we ran around this morning, I finally got to work on the motor some more. You know, Haynes isn't kidding when they say if it doesn't come apart easily there is still a bolt or nut somewhere that you missed! Good lord! I hope I can remember where the hell all the nuts and bolts go!
I did find the missing cylinder pieces, they got kinda chopped up and pieces were in the sump as Zach predicted. So, I did some reading after I split the case and, someone correct me if I am wrong, based on the rods on the crank I would say that I have a 1.7 crank and rod set. Picture below.
Anyone think otherwise? So here then is my question for the group and I am looking for your thoughts and recommendations.
Based on the fact that the head register was machined out to accommodate the larger cylinders but the crank and connecting rods are for a 1.7 vice 2.0. What is the way ahead? I am assuming I can't take her back down to a 1.7 and, based on Jakes article on his site, the 1.7 crank and connecting rods don't work very well with the 2.0 cylinder and re-machined heads.
Recommendations on the way ahead? My gut feeling is to pony up the dough and get a 2.0 crankshaft and just build a semi stock 2.0 with correct cylinders, pistons and connecting rods. What say ye oh omnipotent 914 Meisters?
Finally the distributor gear has some nicks, photo below, major problem or can I just lightly file the sucker and smooth it out? I am assuming I will just use the existing gears on the 1.7 crank if I transfer to a 2.0 crank.
For those that want more engine porn, the link to my photo bucket album is as follows:
Looking forward to hearing some suggestions from the group.
If you're married to that motor, get LN Engineering to do up a set of Nickies. Then rebuild it.
Otherwise, I would start with a fresh motor...one THAT YOU want and have it shipped over, use the parts like the carbs. Sell the rest on evilBay.
Doesn't military get a deal on shipping via MAC?
New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.
If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.
what parts do you need? I am sure we all have enough to get you going again.
Buy a new one- dstributor gears are cheep. They might even be a beetle part.
Parts book says p/n 111.105.223- Driving gear- same for all years
You have to pull the old gear off to get the old bearings off the crank. The removal can involve heating, a puller and a little cussing. Or a big ass press.
OK, edumacate me everyone. I looked at the site that Smitty sent me and on the connecting rods there were two options, stock 2.0 and balanced 2.0. What is the difference and, if I just get a stock 2.0 crank, which set of connecting rods is better?
Two things to update today; first is status of crank and connecting rods, second is did some cleaning up of the crankcase and heads.
I called the guys in Santa Ana that Smitty provided the website to and then emailed them requesting a total quote for the crank, a set of connecting rods and shipping. Haven't gotten anything yet; Smitty, I may be hitting you up to go and get what I need from them and arrange to pay you instead.
I took the crankcase and heads over to post today to clean them up and planned on removing the valves and springs to inspect the head further. Didn't get to the valve removal, ran out of time. I did get a good amount of the crankcase cleaned up but still have more to go. The cooling fins are a bit rough but not unserviceable. Cleane quite a lot of gunk off the case halves but sill have more to go. Also got a basic cleaning done on the heads and hope to pull the valves off this week.
I did notice on one of the exhaust manifolds that I was missing a set of studs and one of those holes already had evidence of a helicoil in it. The other hole was completely baren so will need a new stud put in. No problem, I will do that before I re-assemble the engine.
I did a search on media blasting for the case and heads and couldn't find much as most of the posts were on media blasting the car shell. I know that Andy is not a big fan of media blasting, anyone else have any experience? I want to make sure the heads and case are clean enough to eat off of and all the gunk is gone completely and, the solvent tank isn't completely cutting it. Feedback please, thanks.
OK, so after doing some studying yesterday morning I headed out for the autocraft shop to work on the cylinder heads.
The goal was to finish the dismantle and clean up the heads and valves for inspection. First problem, none of the valve compressors they had worked for the cylinder! They didn't have a pneumatic one like I used back state side so after about an hour of screwing around I wound up using a big ass "C" clamp and socket to compress the valve then shake the shit out if to get the keepers to fall off. Typical Army solution to a lack of proper tools. It worked. And for those that are wondering, here is a picture of my solution.
Needless to say I screwed around trying to get the spring compressors to work before I did the "C" clamp solution so only got a couple of valve springs and keepers off. I had to go to Ikea with the wife to get some other things so didn't get to stay as long as I wanted too.
So, today, I finished the job. Again, had to do some studying first for my exam. That's always fun translating sentences into Sie, du and Ihr form then making them questions and imperatives in each form.
I went back to the autocraft shop around noon and immediately got a socket and "C" clamp to finish the job. So got all the springs and keepers off but none of the valves would come out. Feel around the top and there was an edge built up of metal, not carbon. Well, no sandpaper so I took a fine file and carefully worked off all the edges. Had to do this to every valve.
After about 3 hours of work I got all the valves our and cleaned up and also cleaned up the heads a bit. As you can see by the pictures, no cracks in the heads, this a good thing! They will still need a valve job though just for GP.
I don't have any good pictures of the valves but they are in good shape overall and can be re-used. The biggest issue is on one of the heads the valve guide on the bottom was flat for a lack of a better description. If you look closely at the picture you will see what I mean.
So, does this mean I will need to replace the guides on this sucker? my assumption is yes but I would like some more experienced input on this. Only one head had this problem, the other head was fine. Play in the valves was very minimal from what I could feel but I didn't have a dial indicator to double check this.
I head back this week after my exam to finish cleaning the crankcase and, when all the Germans come back from vacation, will take the heads and valve's in for cleaning up and a valve job and the crankcase in to be checked for alignment. Will probably take the tin in this week as well and get it cleaned up. I am going to cheap out on the tin and paint it myself once it is completely cleaned and rust treated. When I do the body off restoration I will have it powder coated.
I did get my crankshaft and connecting rods ordered thanks to Smitty's link to the place in California. Once those parts come in I will take everything to get balanced. Slowly making progress; the biggest pain is waiting for parts because even though you can find them here in Deutschland, it is cheaper to buy and ship them from the states. Go figure. Gotta do more studying.
Glad to see you are making progress. I feel your pain on getting parts. I have spent a lot of time searching for parts over here with very little success. The parts are here but they are usually twice the price at best.
I also feel your pain on getting work done here. I have actually sent stuff back to the states for machine work and gotten it back faster and cheaper than I would here.
I should have mine up and running soon. I hope yours goes well too.
To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.
They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...
The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.
Well, the crankshaft and rods came in last week Tuesday however, I was on a plane to Tel Aviv, Israel on Wednesday and just got back today. Needless to say I haven't don't anything yet with the engine. I am hoping to drop off the parts to be balanced this week as Christoph should be back from vacation. Will have him order the bearings since their cost is negligible.
If my luck holds I'll have everything back by the end of the month and start re-assembly. We shall see what the future brings. By the way, Israel, lot like southern California in its terrain except they speak Hebrew. Tel Aviv was similar to NY City in that they didn't seem to sleep there, I got up at 0200 this morning to take an early morning flight and there were all kinds of people out and about.
This is a great thread. I really appreciate all the photos and descriptions of what you are finding.
Can you post a link to the article on Jake's site that you've mentioned? I seem to have a collection of 1.7s that could be candidates for 2.0 conversions. I'm really glad to know about DPR since I have a 2.0 with a frozen rod bearing (don't ask) and I know that when I eventually rebuild this engine I'll need their services.
OK, I'm back from my adventures in the Republic of Georgia. Did you know that a two lane road can fit 4 cars abreast if you really try? I thought Italians were crazy drivers!
I got back this past Friday and, after some honey do's, started to take stock of what I have to to on the engine. I need to pick up some lubricants and get the appropriate assembly chemicals together before I can start. Looks like Christoph ordered me a set of gaskets and seals so now I have two sets.
Took all the tin and pushrod tubes to the powder coater for blasting, metal straightening and powder coating. Doing the tin in Ferarri red! Hope to re-assemble the heads this week once I can find someone with a decent valve spring compressor, may have to buy one as the 'C' clamp and socket solution works great getting the springs off but not so well getting them back on.
I wanted to start this weekend but the wife wants to go to a crystal factory sale near Ansbach and then we are driving over to the Czech Republic for the day so I won't get anything done this weekend.
As I start down the engine re-assembly road, any advice, tips or tricks that will make this job a bit easier? I really miss NAPA, O'Reily's, Autozone, etc.
OK, Tin's back along with the fan housing and push tubes from the powder coater. Yes I know, need pics, will try to get and post some this weekend. I am hoping the Crankcase and rod bearings will be in tomorrow. If everything is in I can finish putting the crankshaft back together this week and hopefully start motor assembly this Sunday.
I would do it on Saturday but we are hosting a party at the house so I have to cook and clean. It's a very non-traditional Christmas with Ceviche, Kalua pig and Chook. That's what you get from half a Chinaman raised in Hawaii. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and maybe I'll get the motor done before then!
OK, I think my car has a curse on it or something to that effect. I called Christoph this morning, bearings are in...WOOHOO! He wants me to bring a connecting rod with me so we can test fit the rod bearings as well, no problem. Take off at ten, swing by the house, pick up the connecting rod and wife and off we go.
Get to Dotternhausen and walk into the shop; for those that are interested, his website is www.boxmot.de, ist nur auf Deutsch.
Christoph pulls out the crank bearings and we slide them on...perfect! He yells for Udo to undo the nuts on the connecting rod then wanders off while Udo takes a rod bearing and puts it in...ok, tries to put it in. NOPE
So he measures the inside of the connecting rod assembled, 52, measures the bearings put together 55. Holy shiessa! Thats waaaaaaaaaay off! Well the next 30 minutes are spent trying to figure out what happened but when it is all said and done the crank and connecting rod are at Christoph's place so he can make sure the next set of bearings are the right fit. Damnit, so close!.
On a positive note, I borrowed a metric tap and die set from the autocraft shop and cleaned up all the holes and studs. Need to finish cleaning the left half of the case and then will stick it into a platic bag to keep the dust off of it. Had the boy clean all the studs before I put them back on and had him cleaning the impeller as well. I had hoped that I could have the engine reassembled before the 24th but that I think is now out the window. Good thing my wife is understanding, for that matter good thing I am otherwise Christoph would have gotten an ear full. Oh well, stuff happens, no sense getting too worked up about it cause it won't change it.
Stay tuned for more misadventures of the 914 chronicles
Sounds like you got 1.7/1.8 bearings instead of the 2.0 ones...
Called Christoph today, again I need to reiterate my hypothesis that my car is cursed, he was able to get 2 connecting rod bearings in the right size but was having trouble finding 2 more. Needless to say, I still can't put my damn motor back together yet!
So, he is still looking and I sent a couple of emails out and finally found a set at PP; their web-page said they had 4 sets of 2.0L (.25) German bearings in stock and I got an email stating they would ship on Monday. I'm not going to believe it until I get the notification that they actually shipped. So much for my weekend plans to do some final cleaning and then start assembly.
I may yet do the cleaning and do an inventory of parts to make sure I have everything I need then lay it out for assembly. Problem I will run into is I am taking my son skiing end of next week and when I get back we roll into a big exercise that will keep me busy for the next couple of weeks. It is looking now like February before I get the car up and running.
The bearings are in and they fit! The crank is re-assembled, were ready to rock and roll baby!!
I got the rod bearings in yesterday and took them out to Christoph at lunch today along with the distributor drive gear Circlip (it was hiding in the packing popcorn of the box that I had the old crank in). So, while I was there, we checked fitment of the rod bearings...perfect and then Christoph began the crank re-assembly while I stood by and observed.
OK, everything says "press" this off, "press" this on...yada, yada, yada. So far none of the Germans that I have worked with have used a press. They used a puller to get the drive gear and timing gear off and then Christoph brought out a high speed heat gun, big ass adjustable wrench and soft face hammer to put the gears back on. They also had the Porsche 914 factory book out and used it as a reference to make sure they put things back together correctly.
Unfortunately, they got the timing gear on the wrong side forward the first time and had to pull the gear and redo it. Christoph did offer to give me the factory book to use for motor re-assembly but between this forum, my Haynes and the other books I have I think I should be good. Besides, mein Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut und, I would spend more time translating than actually working on the car.
I plan on laying everything out and setting up my workspace tomorrow but wont' be able to get to re-assembly until probably next weekend as I head to Oberamergau to go skiing and snowboarding this weekend. Will try to get a picture of everything layed out tomorrow time permitting. Its been almost a full year from the time I picked the car up in Sicily, Italy and this adventure began. Hopefully I will be able to close the first chapter by the end of February and have her on the road. Wish me luck.
Finally got around to getting some pictures of the powder coating work that I had done on the tin. The color is Ferarri red for most of it with the push tubes being high temp flat black.
Will take the crankcase halves in this afternoon for a final steam cleaning and wrap them up until I start assembly.
Progress is being made, slow, deliberate and educational but progress never the less. So Friday evening I cleaned up all the case bolts by soaking them in simple green then brushing them with a toothbrush and brass wire brush. Also soaked them in Evaporust to get any rust off them and treat them.
Saturday I got the crankshaft assembled with the rods mounted and properly torqued. I spent the rest of the day reading, researching and taking daughter to a birthday party so didn't get to do much more other than set the garage up for assembly. A picture of the assembled crank.
Put it together in the basement.
After a posting and some answers I was ready to start assembly...oh wait, I don't have a stand that will fit it. Crap, not only was my stand occupied but it wouldn't work for the Porsche motor. So, after some careful thought I chose the redneck solution and built a stand out of 2x2s.
Its actually sitting on oil absorbing material which is set on a furniture mover! Simple and efficient only one problem. I built it for the wrong case half! Dangit! Well, I don't have time to re-build another one so...we move to contingency plan 'b' or what I call the 'ghetto redneck' solution.
Just grab the scrap 2x2 wood, turn the original redneck stand around and carefully place things and...wella!
Thus began the insertion of the bearings, lube, etc. OK, lining up the #1 and 4 crank bearings with the dowel rod is easier said than done. After initial assembly with what I thought was a properly lined up bearing I turned the crank. Didn't turn easy, maybe it's just this type of motor? So, post another question about turn resistance, sit, contemplate, get annoyed, go back out and pull the case apart again and start over!
This time I took off the bearings, placed them in the case and then made alignment tics on the bearing and case. This time when the crank went in my son and I lined up the tick marks before putting the case back on. Finger tighten the nuts and bolts, spin the crank. BEAUTY!! Spun much easier, clearly didn't have the bearings lined up to the dowel pin correctly the first go around. Finished torquing the case bolts and nuts and called it a day. Covered the motor with plastic to keep dust out and closed up the garage.
Would have liked to do more but it was 33 degrees here in Stuttgart and my little heater couldn't keep up. Besides the outlet in the garage and the light don't work very well. Landlord paid the lowest bidder to wire the place so it tends to flip the breaker consistently. Well before I close this out, one last picture. My son Alex with his broken wrist; he broke it snowboarding last weekend which kinda set back his basic training date for the air force.
Hopefully I can slap on the pistons and cylinders next weekend and finish most of it off. Have to check endplay of the crank but will need to get a dial gauge as the autocraft shop here doesn't have one. I feel better now that I am moving closer to finishing the engine.
OK, so, after discussion and reading on deck height and some other things I made some progress today. Unfortunately, not as far as I wanted as I was missing some washers. So, I will head out to Boxter tomorrow and get some cylinder head stud nuts and washers.
Still, I got the pistons and cylinders in and heads on along with the oil pump. Of course I had to roll the motor into the living room in the house to do it but it got done. It was a balmy 20 degrees here this morning and there was no way I was going to work in the garage without heat! Good thing the wife had errands to run but she still came back to a bit of a mess that I cleaned up later on. So for those interested, some photos. Yes, that's a Dora the explorer backpack in the background. Had to move the daughters table and chairs out of the way!
Well, did you ever get the feeling the automotive gods gazed down on you and with a twinkle in their omnipotent eyes and smirk they say..."he is not worthy, smite him and cause him pain!!" Yep, I would be the ire of which they speak, the sliver in their finger, the thorn in their side, the fly in their chardonay...
So, I finally got the endplay worked out and had the case cleaned as well as the broken oil dipstick tube removed. The plan was to assemble today, drop off at Christoph's tomorrow and pick up a running car upon my return from Scotland. Well, we have a saying in the Army, maybe I have said it before, I can't remember but, it is simply, "no plan survives first contact."
This is why we develop contingency plans, branches and sequels...That may work in tactical operations but it doesn't do so well with motor assembly. I came home at lunch, cut the grass and then slapped in the crank and put the two case halves together to check end play. Now, my son is now gone, he is probably getting yelled at right now by a drill sergeant so I don't have a second set of hands to help me out. No problem, carefully line up the bearings, check to make sure they are in the correct position, feels good, looks good, must be good! NOT!
Crank turns easily and the bearings don't rotate. I am positive number 3 and number 4 are seated and number 1 isn't moving either. Put on the other half and torque the 6 thru bolts. Damn, she doesn't turn! Hell! now what. OK, don't panic, loosen the nuts, take the case apart and make sure things are seated correctly.
hmm, crank still won't turn, damn, I gotta go back to work. Will check when I get back.
So back to work, leave at about 1500 and head home to work on the motor. Pull the crank out of the case, dang, the #1 bearing is stuck! This isn't good, well a little tapping and she comes off. Inspect the crank, no burrs or any damage, inspect the bearing, dang its damage! You can see where its pushed in just a bit and an edge flat. What the hell just happened?!
Well it took me a bit until I figured it out, well, I hadn't noticed it before but there is small hole right next to the dowel pin hole that is just a bit shallower but the same diameter as the dowel pin. Sooooo, when I was checking to see if the bearing was seated it was in the shallow hole and not the correct dowel pin hole.
Because of this when I put the case together and torqued it down the pin pushed the bearing in. Guess I need a new #1 bearing. I can't seem to catch a break on this car! It's a good thing I have become much more patient as I got older or I would have probably torched the car and motor by now.
So, tomorrow, since I have off, I will be scrambling to find a new #1 bearing. If I can find one then I can get the motor assembled and get it to Christoph's shop Saturday morning. If not, I'll get it on order and put it together when I get back from Scotland. I will run over to the VW dealer in the morning and see what they can do for me. Wish me luck! In the meantime, I'm gonna drink me a Belgium beer and clean the house so I don't have to do it tomorrow before I depart.
Well, after a couple of weeks and a motorcycle trip to Scotland and back I'm back on track to finishing the motor. I received the new set of crank bearings yesterday from Type IV and got a chance to fit everything together today.
I would have done it yesterday but, I was a bit immobile. I pulled my lower back out of wack at the gym so couldn't really do much other than hobble around and lay around. When the bearings came in it was a bit of a slap in the face as the box looked at me and said, 'HA, WHATCHA GONNA DO ABOUT IT BROKE DICK!!!!'
Well, what I did about it was go see the Doc on post who proceeded to unpretzel me with some chiropractic type moves. He said my spine and miscellaneous bones were out of wack and he proceeded to correct that.
It wasn't until I left the office though and stuck the Tens machine on me that the pain went away and I was able to actually do shit! WOOHOO!! First things first, check to make sure the bearings are the right size! Yep, now, put the half up with the dowel rods and fit all the bearings properly then mark them!
After that I spent the next couple of hours hand cleaning the mating surfaces and transferring some studs from the old case halves to the new one. Once everything was cleaned up and dry I began to assemble the case with bearings to check endplay. This time I make sure everything was lined up and the crank spun freely before I torqued it down.
That went well but had to have the wife help me get the assembled case down from the work bench. Normally an easy task for me but not when you have a hurt lower back and don't want to re-injure it.
Slapped on three shims, thick ones all at .38mm, torqued the flywheel down and took some measurements. .004mm WOOHOO!! I didn't mess with it anymore but I have more shims than I can shake a stick at in some smaller sizes so all I have to do now is mix and match till I get the right measurement. I will do this tomorrow but sitting on the ground made my back sore so stopped for today.
Hopefully things will go well tomorrow and I can start final assembly; keep your fingers crossed!
Well, after a full day the motor is 98% complete! Why not a 100%? Because the &*&(*&^%$# valve adjustment screw on the #2 cylinder exhaust valve busted!!! I swear their is some mischievous Menehune (Hawaiian Leprechaun) running around my place just mucking things up!
Well, be that as it may, he will not defeat me, if nothing else I'm a persistent SOB and will never surrender to defeat!
So, I just finished installing the shims, and flywheel with the seal and put in the front seal as well. I only got the #1 cylinder valve clearance adjusted before the #2 cylinder valve screw issue.
I loaded her up into the van along with the tin and remaining parts and will take it over to Boxter tomorrow to have them finish it up. Not much has to be done but they can get it done faster than I can.
I'm thinking when I get my MG finished and tear the 914 down for a complete resto of doing a subie conversion or just forking out the dough and getting a motor from Jake. Depends on where I am at in the next few years. In the meantime, I am hoping Christoph and his crew can get it up and running by the end of next week. Stay tuned for more 914 follies!
Hot damn! After almost about a year and a half she is back up and running!
I called Christoph on Monday and the motor was running great, he was finalizing some brake details and plumbing the heat exchanger system and told me it should be done today.
I called him today, yup, she's done! Couldn't pick her up yet though as he was waiting for the TUV to get me the historical certification so I can be exempt from the Umwelt laws.
So, I am to call him tomorrow to see if the TUV guys need to come out to see the car again, hopefully not and I can pick her up tomorrow. Still will need to do some things like put in new seals to the targa top so she doesn't leak but I can do that after I get her back. Will have to maneuver the car and bike both into the small garage but I am sure it won't be a problem.
Will get some pictures when I get her back. I'm just glad she's finally done! At least until I get my MG back together and strip her down completely for a full resto-mod! But that will have to wait a bit. Anyone want a pair of centerline racing rims? I got 4 that I want to get rid of! I'm going to see what I can find on the local market here in Deutschland. With so many small 4 lug cars I may be able to find a nice set of rims that work.
Love your persistence! Hope you have many happy hours of
Congratulations! I am really jealous. I got my car up and running just in time to miss the whole summer. We will have to meet up and go for a drive when I get back. Unless it is snowing when I get back in October.
Well ladies and gentlemen, it's home. Christoph had to do some major work before it could be released and I am not sure I want to see the bill!
So, what else did he do? Let see.
- Replace the rotors and bolts on front wheels
- Replace the right front strut and shock
- Replace the right front brake caliper
- Replace the brake master cylinder
- Replace the brake proportioning valve
- under body welds and various places
- electrical work, did I mention the PO totally jacked up the wiring harness and electrical connections? Christoph said that they had a hard time because the wiring didn't match the diagram!
- Replaced all 5 wheels and rims, TUV wanted a more original rim for the historical cert so he gave me 4 new/used pegrini rims. Still got the old ones, gonna sell em on ebay as they will fit a VW beetle.
So what is left to do?
- Rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced eventually. Anyone got a set of used ones I can send for rebuild?
- I seem to have a minor oil leak I think in the front seal, need to track it down.
- leak in targa top needs to be identified and fixed.
She runs OK, little rough when she is cold and I am pretty sure I will need to rebuild the tranny eventually but for now she runs and is registered. Now I just have to mortage a house to pay for the German labor costs! Will get a picture this weekend and post.
OK, I got a chance to check some things on the car today; had to put my wife on a plane yesterday to head to the states so didn't have the chance yesterday. The wife is heading to San Antonio to help my dad as my mom is in the hospital and he is having a tough time.
So, first thing, check on the oil leak. Well, looks like it is either leaking from several locations or dripping onto metal and then moving down the metal until it falls on the ground. I won't really get a better picture until I put her on the lift sometime this week or next weekend.
Seals on the targa top and around the window and rear area are just about dry rotted and shot. Will need to replace all the seals; should solve the leak that I got when it was raining on me. Not a big leak but significant enough to piss me off.
Lights need alignment with the body but the seals on the front hood also need replacement as it's harder than a rock!
I gave Christoph 4 quarts of oil but the dipstick is reading significantly low...WTF? Well, will just go and buy more oil and put some in. I am hoping this week will be nice so I can run her with the top off and work out some of the kinks.
In truth, I think the work has just begun.
OK, I now know why the cost of living is so expensive here, I just got the repair bill and this is after discounts.
Even after steadily bringing him money to the tune of 2300 Euro my final bill that I have left is still 7186 Euro or a little over $10k with the current exchange rate.
The wife is going to freak! We have the means to pay the bill but it will wipe out some money we have put aside. I may be putting this car on the German market for about 5k Euros as that will give me back at least $7k.
I hate to do it but I may not have a choice. The parts were not the issue, I wracked up close to 7700 Euros in labor alone! OUCH!!!
Anyone got a winning lottery ticket? Gonna go bang my head on a wall now, already sent an email to the wife and gave her some courses of action. She is in the states having to deal with my parents, I really didn't want to drop this on her.
oh man, I'm really sorry about this
I knew from my own experience that professional labor on the 914 is very expensive, but I didn't think that it would be so much in your case ...
I hope that you could keep the teener ...
Damn, This is a shame about the bill total and the need to dump the car.
My dad recently had his 1930 Model A Ford professionally restored (exterior) and they gave him an original quote of $6,000-$8,000.
Well, over the course of the resto, he paid them $11k in progress payments and they never mentioned that they estimate was significantly off.
Well, at the end of it, they hit him with a $27,000 bill for the work. That was well beyone what was expected and of course my dad didn't have enough money to pay it (he is retired) so he left them the car and went back to regroup.
In the end, he found the money and got the car, but I am a big fan of having the shop tell you when they reach certain money thresholds, just to make sure both can survive the final outcome.
Then again, as any restoration should be expected to be 3x the original time and dollar amounts, it wasn't that far off. Conventional wisdom is right.
So, sorry about your situation, good luck in the final outcome, and it would be a shame for you to sell the 914, especially after getting this far with it.
So, I talked to household 6, for those of you that are former military you understand the call sign! We're gonna sell her or at least try.
I took her out this morning and washed her, she really is fun to drive! I still need to put her on the lift and figure out where the oil leak is coming from as the oil drips onto the exhaust and then burns and smokes.
Hopefully it is an easy fix, yeah right!
I did some checking on ebay.de, mobile.de and autoscout24.de and the average price for a 1.7 or 1.8 is about 5500 Euro and, the ones listed are not in very good shape. The couple of 2.0L ones listed went from 5k up to 15k Euro. I don't think the one for 5K was driveable.
So, here are some pictures of the car as it stands now; I will list some info on what has been done and what needs to be done then solicit some opinions on price.
Here is what work has been done.
-Motor converted to 2.0; heads are machined 1.7 heads - motor was balanced
-All the tin was blasted and powdercoated
-Brake master cylinder and proportioning valve replaced along with some of the brake lines
-brake pads replaced
-windshield wiper motor and arms replaced, works beautifully unlike when I got her in Italy!
-windsheild washer unit replace with electric unit
-wheel studs replaced and Pedrini wheels installed
-fuel sending unit pulled and completely cleaned - now works, didn't before.
-new exhaust system, converted back to original system with heat exchanger
-Engman fuse panel installed
-seat belts converted to 3 point system
-right front strut and brake caliper replaced
-new clutch pressure plate
What still needs to be done
-replace side mirrors, drivers side mirror just kinda droops.
-replace windshield trim plan on ordering it from member vendor
-targa top rubber needs replacement - may or may not do
-window seals need relacement - may or may not do
-trailing arm bushings need replacement.
After talking to Christoph he thinks he may have someone interested in buying the car and he recommended 9800Euro as the price. He said that it is very hard to find a 914 that both passes the TuV AND has the historical certification which this car has. Thoughts from the collective group?
Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.
OK, so I put her on the lift today to find the oil leak. Well, I am pretty sure I have a slight main seal leak as a drop of oil accumulated on the bottom of the fan shroud. I am also getting a good amount from the pushrod tubes on the driver side once she has been moving and is warmed up. I didn't see a lot when she was running and up in the air but when I got home from a long drive you could see a good amount on the ground where the push tubes are located.
So, how easy is it to pull the tubes and change the seals without dropping the motor? Looks a little tight in there from where I was looking up. I know that it sounds sacrilegious but would using the Mittelmotor technique of just using high heat auto seal/calk in there do the trick? Looking for some suggestions because I don't think it will sell if she has a big oil leak problem. A small bit is fine but this isn't what I consider a small bit.
I also think I have an exhaust leak on the drivers side, I took a video and I'll try to figure out how to embed the video after I get back from cleaning my bike.
I did manage to fix the rear view mirror and side mirror thanks to a very informative write up on how to tighten up the side view mirror in the Lapawuli section. I also got the passenger side door handle working again but I don't think the key matches the lock because I can't lock the doors. I will see if there is a thread on this in the forum later.
Gustl has been very helpful in translating and making suggestions for the add to sell the car and I will post it to the 914freunde site later today. Will post some pictures and the video when I get back later.
Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.
So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.
Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?
The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.
It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.
What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.
If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!
OK, the new windshield is in and trim is on, shouldn't leak anymore. Took her out for a spin with my daughter and ran down the back way and towards Nurtingen before we turned around. I was checking to see if I was still having oil problems. Yep.
So, I got her back and looked under the car, drivers side of the engine mount had some oil drip off of it and the shift linkage had droplets of oil all along its length. I am thinking front main seal by the impeller? Anyone else have any thoughts?
Of course this means I will have to drop the motor to get to it. Not sure when I am going to find the time though. I may have to take a week of leave to get it done.
So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.
I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.
Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.
If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!
2 hours my ass! So I found a CV joint removal tool or 'triple' square socket driver at the autoshop. Came home got the CV bolts out fairly easily and separated the stub axles from the tranny. The harder part was being a contortionist to get the engine mount bolts out! The furniture cart wasn't quite in the right position so I will be replacing the cart but the motor is down and the rear on stands.
The axle stubs are preventing me from rolling the motor out the ass end but I will deal with that tomorrow. After two days and I would say about 6 hours of work I finally got the motor out. Now that I have done it I see how it could take only a couple of hours but when you're doing it for the first time, it takes a while.
Tomorrow's plan is to pull the motor out from under the car and start tearing down the front so I can replace the seal. Although I don't want to, I will have to separate the motor from the tranny to make sure the rear seal is OK as well. I have the seals, so I may as well replace them both and take care of all the oil leaks which I am pretty sure are from the seals. Will post some pictures tomorrow, hopefully.
OK, had to pull the carbs in order to get the axle stubs clear and pull her out. Before I go into what I found, first question; best way to marry the tranny back up with the motor? Some help please! When I did my MG motor and tranny I had the motor on a stand and the tranny on a crane so it was easy, not quite as easy this time around.
So, taking one thing at a time, I pulled the impeller and took a look at the seal. Dry as a bone. hmm, but there is oil all over the oil pump. Well, I took off the housing and after careful inspection came to the conclusion that the oil pump was the culprit on the front end. The body wasn't leaking where it mated to the crankcase but I evidently didn't do a good job sealing the cover to the oil pump. I got the cover off and resealed it and threw a bead of high heat seal around the pump body just in case.
Put that back together and then went to the rear seal. There was a pool of oil looking at me when I pulled the flywheel off. I don't think I seated the seal properly but, in the interest of making sure, I pulled it out, cleaned up the area and put in a new seal instead of trying to seat the old one. This time I made sure it was seated properly.
I also replaced the O-ring in the flywheel and threw on a new crush washer. This brings us to the mating of the motor with the tranny. I just quite couldn't' get it right, is there a trick? Thoughts? Here are some pictures of the motor and my tranny mating method, i.e. put the tranny on a floor jack and try to roll it to the motor.
HA HA! when I read the title of this thread I immediately thought of what tripped me up on my first 914 engine removal..... The F&%ed up bolts they used for the CV joints.
Since then ( college days many years ago ), I could have the engine out of my 914 in less than 2 hours by myself & a floorjack & two jackstands.
The good old days ;-)
You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.
I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.
Well, necessity being the mother of invention, I went out to tackle the tranny and motor marry up again. Cleaned the input shaft then put a light coat of grease on it to lube the pilot bushing. Lined up the jack then slowly brought it together. Dang, not quite lined up; back out the jack turn the input shaft just a tick then line up and try again. This time they seem to be mating well but I can't get them to slide together.
Hmm, maybe if I take a clamp and clamp both sides then slowly turn the clamp I can bring them together slowly without having to shove anything! So off I go in search of a clamp...damn, their all in storage! Now what? Hmm, ya know that one bolt is pretty long...wonder if I can get it through the motor and tranny case and just tighten the bolt? Should do the same thing as using a clamp; brilliant!
So, I thread the bolt through but it is a bit long so I take a wrench and thread the bolt through the wrench and then the tranny to the motor...BINGO! Start to tighten and she begins to slowly move together. Stop and check alignment then grab both sides and try to slide them together knowing that it ain't gonna happen...Well hot damn! Slide together like a a well greased........Yeah, well leave it at that. So, I got the motor put back together and began the process of re-mounting the motor to the car. Here is where I have a question.
I got the car and motor lined up and the tranny mounts were easy but I don't think I have the engine mounts quite right. According to the PP diagram:
I should have only one number 15; well, I got two on there. One facing cupside down and the other was on there cupside up and covering the rubber mount. This has caused a problem with getting the dang bolt through the mount, base upper and washer as it doesn't provide me much room to thread the nut onto the bolt.
Any reason I should leave the second base lower on there? Based on the diagrams I only need one base lower and it fits cupside down with the notch pointing inward towards the motor. I am hoping I can get the car back on the road either tomorrow or Sunday as I have to take my bike in to get the front wheel re-balanced and an oil change so need trans!
Now, once I get the mount installed properly, 21ft lbs of torque? That is what Haynes is showing but I am not totally sure and it is a royal PITA to get in there to torque the damn nut. Any help from the peanut gallery would be appreciated.
Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.
Well, today didn't quite go as planned, I got the right side CV bolts back in but had to stop to go find the torque settings as I couldn't find them in my books. I may have been looking in the wrong place. Found them on the PP site though. So, I decided to tackle the exhaust bolt; cleaned up the bolt and the hole, slapped some loctite on it then reinstalled the bolt. About this time I start getting the chills. I've been fighting a virus all week.
Today is also supposed to be my daughters 4th birthday party; well, I went downhill fast and by the time my wife came home from getting some things for the party I was running a high fever and had about 5 blankets piled on me. Needless to say I did not make it to the party and my poor wife had to set everything up herself. It is not 1700 my time here in Deutschland and I have finally broken my fever and all I have left is a sore throat and headache. Being stupid, I am debating going back out to work on the car some more.
Worst part is I have night shift starting tomorrow, Volkfest (local version of Octoberfest) on Thursday and then we ride to Prague on Friday. I don't have time to be sick! Done ranting now, I'm gonna go root around in the fridge and find something to eat. Then I think I will head out to the garage...No one said I was smart.
IT'S ALIVE!!!! Well, kinda, for the most part. Got everything put together with the exception of the motor lid. Started her up, damn that sucker is running rough! I know that I preset the carbs before installation last time and that the Boxer guys have no clue what to do with them so that isn't the problem.
I am pretty sure I need to set the idle and then balance both carbs but I need to get her up and running to operating temps first. So, the plan tomorrow is to put on the lid, start her up and go for a drive. Good way to check that I have no oil leaks as well. During the time I had her running I didn't see any oil developing anywhere so I think I finally got that fixed. The valves were adjusted prior to motor installation so I don't think this is a problem but, after I make some adjustments, we shall see.
I'll finish putting on the rear valance and motor lid tomorrow then after balancing the carbs we shall see how she does.
Quick question, still have a small exhaust leak just off the #1 cylinder I believe. This has been a problem, anyone got any suggestions on fixing this problem? The other side is fine and the #2 has no leaks just the one cylinder.a
So, I've evidently I have bronchitis, great. Needless to say they tell me to go home and stay home. I can do that. Now, being the stubborn SOB and since I receive a lot of help getting the valves done and the car is running....time to synch the carbs!
First off, my damn archaic SU Carbs are easier to synch than these Delortos; not because they are complicated but because it is awkward to get to the fast idle screw.
So the car is running, so far no oil, I'm screwing around with the damn carbs, kinda smokey in here must be that damn exhaust leak. Well, the passenger side carb is being a pain cause the screw is on the inside and I have to lean over the engine bay and do the contortionist thing to get to the screw. Well, need to take a break for a minute, lets see if I got any oil leaks....can you see where this is going??
HOLY SHIT! I got me a pool and it's under the number two cylinder! GODDAMNIT!!!
So, I turn off the car, jack it up, clean up the pool of oil and crawl under there with a flashlight. Definitely not from the push rod tubes, those are good, nothing pooling on the bottom of the impeller fan housing, nothing on the rear main (at least that is fixed). What the hell? There are droplets on the engine mount and the tin right below the number 2 cylinder. Hmm, is it possible that their is a leak between the head and the #2 cylinder?
Well, looks like I'll be dropping the motor...again. So any suggestions on what I should be looking for? I can see the seam between the crankcase and the cylinders but I don't see any oil there. I am pretty sure it is from the cylinder and head; I didn't 'lap' the head but used a gasket.
I will take a break tomorrow, doctors orders, then look at dropping the motor on Saturday. If anyone has any words of wisdom it would be appreciated. Just when I think I finally got things licked. I guess it's a good thing i'm a stubborn asshole, otherwise this car would have been at the bottom of a lake somewhere.
OK, so today was a rather dismal day in Germany, cold, wet and friggin hail! Needless to say, I loaded up the Pedrinis, Centerlines and winter tires and made a run for post. I dropped the wife and wee one off at an indoor playground called Sensapolis then did what I needed to do with the tires.
After returning home I put the new rubber on the car and decided to see if I could pinpoint the oil leak. I removed the connecting pipe that goes up into the engine tin and the heating air supply or warm air guides as some call them so I could better see where the oil was coming from.
Re-connect the carb linkage on the driver side so I can get her started and crank her up. Once she was warm and idling at about 1500 rpm I looked under the car. No oil. OK, lets finish what I was doing the other day and start synchronizing the carbs.
What I forgot to mention is that Boxter had run the vacuum lines from the carbs into a PVC valve and also run another tube off the oil filler assembly into a perforated plastic oil container. I had connected the lines to two tubes that were sticking out of the left side of the car as I assumed that this is where they went. Well, I disconnected the tubes and set it back up the way Boxter had it done.
So, she's running, I disconnect the driver's side carb linkage and begin synchronizing the carbs checking under the car every now and again. Finally, after about 20 minutes I start to see some oil form on the cooling fins of the #2 cylinder. I get a spit every now and again but nothing like the other day.
Check the pushrod tubes, dry, check the valve cover gasket, dry, check near the impeller, dry. #3 & 4 are also good to go. #1 cylinder fins show no oil forming on them. So my thoughts are,
1) the seal ring/gasket between the head and cylinder didn't seat right or I blew a that gasket
2) I don't have the head torqued down properly but I would think that this would affect both cylinders if this was the case
3) blowby created when I connected the tubes incorrectly from the carbs?
Either way, it is primarily a spitting leak and nothing major at this point so I will re-check torque in the morning and see what she does. I will also do some research on how the tubes are supposed to be hooked up. From the Delorto manual I am supposed to have the vacuum tube connected between the carbs. This would leave the, I assume overflow tube, from the oil filler assembly to connect somewhere else.
Once I recheck things and make sure they are set up properly I'll start her up again and see what happens. If she still leaks then I will order new seals for both cylinders, clean up the head, replace and reseal the head and cylinders. Will obviously have to recheck valve adjustment but at least I don't have to drop the motor. I need to double check to see if I already have the seals since I had acquired two seal sets; maybe i'll be lucky but that is usually not the case for me.
Unless anyone has any other suggestions this is the plan that I will proceed with. Eventually this car will be back on the road again permanently!
Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.
OK, after a slow start this morning, I watched Mongol instead of working on the car, good movie by the way, I headed out to tackle the teener again.
First, lets adjust the shift linkage. Boy what a PITA! Whoever designed the access panel and clamp assembly needs to be shot! Got it done but I am surprised I didn't throw out my back doing the different contortions to get to the bolt and nut on the clamp.
Next, pull the cylinder cover and check torque of nuts. Oh crap, I forgot, If I want to get some of the nuts I gotta take off the tin! Well, lets check the couple I can reach. Yup they were good so I am pretty sure head to cylinder torque is not the problem.
So, lets start her up and take her for a spin, so she's running, so far no oil. Get in, push in the clutch, put her in reverse.....GRIND GRIND GRIND! What the hell? How about 1st? GRIND GRIND GRIND! Well that's not good.
OK, I clearly need to adjust the clutch cable as I obviously didn't get it right when I reinstalled it. So after some checking here and there I found where I screwed up and made the adjustment. Lets try again, OH HONEY! "WHAT?!" Come out here and push the clutch in so I can make sure it is engaging!
Out comes the wife, she gives me the long suffering look, I get under the car, "now?" Yes dear, now. She pushes, still a bit loose; send the wife on her way and make some additional adjustments. This time I clear everything out of the way again, start her up, clutch....put in reverse...WOOHOO! Back her out of the garage!
Now, lets take her for a little spin shall we?! So I run her about 5 miles, get her up to about 50 and hit some stop and go traffic until I finally get back, about 10 minutes total time. Pull her in, leave her running and check under the car. All I got is an occasional drip with some splatter from the vibration of the motor. I still think she is coming from the #2 cylinder but it is very, very minor.
Well, before I re-attach the warm air guide and connecting tube, I plan to run her into work tomorrow which will be a good 15 mile trip that takes about 30 minutes on the back road. If I am getting just a minor drip then I am not going to worry about it. I'll just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get worse. Should get me through the winter. I do need to make sure the HEs and the defroster work but I'll have to tackle that next weekend as I have a trip to Garmisch this week for a conference. No, not taking the teener, riding the bike down cause I'm a glutton for punishment! Should be a cold ride.
I am due to move in June of next year, she just needs to behave until I get her back to the states, once I get her back and have all my tools out of storage she can act up again. I am sure I'll have questions as I dig into the defroster and heating system, the saga is not over, just on temporary leave.
Time for a beer, especially since I am feeling much better and seem to be getting over the bronchitis.
just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe
So what does one learn when they head out at 0645 and the temps are near freezing? Well, a working defroster is a must especially when there is fog and the water from the windshield washer freezes on the window!
Other than that, the car did well, there was some smoke as the little bit of oil hit the exhaust and burned off but she definitely does not like the cold when starting in the morning.
Since there is no choke I have to pump the gas and try to keep her RPMs up enough to warm the engine but this is not an option at O-dark thirty when you are trying not to disturb the neighbors.
Couple of questions for the group.
1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?
2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?
Looking for thoughts and suggestions.
Well, after a long Thanksgiving and some other things to do I finally got around to working on the exhaust. I ran the tap I got with the helicoil kit into the exhaust stud hole, no problems there. Then I put in the helicoil, hardest part? Getting the friggin tang to come out of the hole.
After putting the exhaust back on and starting to tighten down the nuts the one stud started to spin again. Damn! Since it is about 8 friggin degrees here in Deutschland and the outlets to the garage don't work, I called it quits for the day. Maybe I'll get back to it before Christmas, maybe not. We are going to Nurenburg tomorrow so I don't know when I'll have at it again. As it is, I also have to do some trouble shooting on my motorcycle as the start switch is not responding. Might be taking the bus into work for a bit.
Well, the weather was warm enough for me to tackle the teener again. So, I got back under her and tried to figure out the problem with the stud. Turns out the actual nut was stripped; crap.
Off to the basement in search of a spare nut, lo and behold I found one! Back up to the car, lets see now, carefully turn...yep she works. So it wasn't the stud that turned on me a few days back but the actual nut. So now lets tighten things down and see if we fixed the exhaust leak.
Start her up, crawl under, seems to be ok, I don't see any exhaust coming out of the #2 cylinder. OK, lets put the heat exchanger back together and take her out for a run shall we.
So I get it all put together and run it about 2 miles, she is shifting well and I don't smell any smoke when I stop. Get her back to the garage, pull her in and crawl under and have a look...Damn! Still leaking exhaust ! OK, I really need to take it into the shop and get it up on the lift to fix this problem and it will entail putting in new gaskets. I'm not gonna get it done here so lets see if the blower for the defroster and heater is at least working.
Well, I pulled the red lever, and pushed the controls over but it didn't feel like any air was coming from the defroster vent. Hmm, guess I'll need to trouble shoot that as well. Anyone got any recommendations on troubleshooting the blower system?
For now, she is driveable, I will just have to leave the windows cracked. Considering my bike needs a new battery I will be taking the Teener into work this week. The weather is also turning to slush which does not make a good motorcycle riding experience! I will just need to make sure I take her to a car wash each week and hose the underside down real well with the chemicals on the road to prevent icing.
So, it's been snowing here since last Friday and only stops to take a breather. We have at least 18 inches if not more and I have been driving the teener, now heat, windows cracked so the windshield doesn't fog up.
As mentioned earlier, the sucker wsa running fast because the cable was not quite right. I adjusted it the other day but it seems as if the pedal wasn't returning all the way back up; it was just shy about a mm or two.
Anyway, I drive to work today, when you get off the autobahn to go to Patch Barracks the exit has a light at the end, if you turn right you head downtown to Vaihingen. If you turn left, you head to Patch and a turn off onto Pascal strasse that takes you to Boeblingen; right in front of you is a big Audi and VW dealership.
As I slow and stop, the car is idling high again. OK, put it in neutral, engage the E-brake, now, reach down pull the gas pedal back a bit and voila! Idle goes down. Clearly I need to see what is going on there.
Light turns green and we creep up some more until there is only one car in front of me when the light turns red again. So, lets do the same thing...OOOOOPS! I pulled just a bit too hard and the pedal popped loose! Well, this isn't good OK, don't panic, try to put the pedal where it belongs and when the light turns green, pull straight into the car dealership to figure out what the hell just happened.
Well, I got her there, barely and cut the motor. I had my flashlight with me because I had to re-install the damn rear view mirror again this morning so I took a look down there. Well whatdya know, the pedal is a ball joint style set up; I would know this if I had done more work down there. At least thats a releive, it souldn't be too hard to fix. Well after a couple of tries, I got it lined up properly, pushed all the way down till it stopped moving and slapped the shit out of of it to make it go back into the socket! It worked!
So, start her back up and head to work. Hmm, the idle seems to have resolved itself as well Wonder if she just needed a mild beating? We will see if it truly resolved itself when I head home today.
Just thought I would share yet another misadventure of the yellow bomber
OK, phase 2 in this money pit and I need some help from the experts on this forum.
First, cylinder heads.
I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.
I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?
Finally, fuel injection.
Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?
I think the first project will be the tranny conversion then I will make a determination of what to tackle next depending on feedback to my other two questions.
Thanks for the info; as for the heads, from what I understand, they were machined to accept the larger cylinder and pistons but no other changes were made to either of the valves.
The cam is the stock original cam for the 1.7 motor; the crank and pistons are 2.0 and balanced.
Maybe the option is to just replace the existing carbs with the 1.7 FI and then maybe rebuild the existing tranny. #1 tends to be a bit tricky and #5 has been giving me some problems as of late.
I am heading over to a local guy here near Stuttgart that caries used 914 parts to see what he has. If I can find the side shift tranny et al. for a reasonable price I may pick it up.
The larger question is when to start; I am still trying to figure out where the Army is sending me next and have a job lined up to stay here in Stuttgart but that may change.
In an effort to get the car running SMOOTHLY I decided to rebuild the pedal cluster as that was causing some issues with the motor running at high rpms.
I used Erics write up to do the job and all was well until today; I had not removed the brake light indicator switch when I initially disassembled the cluster so I took it off this morning. Boy was that sucker dirty! OK, time to clean it up; the goal was to get the rebuilt cluster in today and everything adjusted so I would have the car this coming week. It's supposed to snow again so I can't ride the bike in.
Well, some days your the hammer and some days your the nail. I was the nail today ...again. My wife pointed out that I was usually the nail when it came to this car. I had dropped the switch in the sink and the metal tail on the bottom of the switch broke right off! Dangit!
Well, nothing I can do about, so I ordered a new switch, they ain't cheap, and went out to the garage and cleaned the area up in preparation for the eventual installation of the cluster. Just another day in my ongoing saga with this car, eventually the entire car will be brand new! Guess I'll go work on my MBA paper the rest of the day.
OK, so I got in the brake light indicator switch. Will get that installed along with the pedal cluster this weekend I hope. I was in Vicenza all last week so wasn't able to get to it. Now, next question for the brain trust, Fuel Injection.
I have a line on a 1.7 FI system but I have some questions since my main experience is with carbs and British vehicles that also ran carbs.
Distributor. I am pretty sure I have the original dizzy but the vacuum advance is no longer present since it was transferred to carbs and a petronix ignitor was dropped in. So, I understand that I will need the vacuum advance component and a set of 'trigger' points. Will the trigger points work with the petronix or do I need to convert back to the old points set up to run the FI?
What I want is to understand what I will need and make sure I have all the components before I replace the carbs for the FI system. Is there a write up anywhere on how the FI system works and how to convert back to the old system?
I'm afraid i cant help you with the petronix question (though i look forward to hearing the answer as i was wondering the same myself)
This is a good article for starters on the FI system:
The distributor runs the igniton system in the top of the dizzy, and the trigger points in the bottom of the dizzy. The ignition system is advanced/retarded by centripital weights and vaccuum, and needs to be in place for the fuel injection. The trigger points control the injection of fuel, and are not connected to the advance/retard mechanism required by the ignition system. They open and close as the dizzy shaft rotates to squirt fuel.
The trigger points control the squirts of fuel and they are not timed to squirt precisely as the valves open and close, they merely squirt into the intake so that the fuel is peresent when the intake valve opens.
Attached is a schematic of the 1.7 EFI parts and sensors. You will need all the stuff in the schematic the black center manifold and grey manifold pipes, the air cleaner and hoses, and a high pressure fuel pump. Probably some more stuff but that is a quick list.
Hope this helps.
Sounds like you have a 009 or 050 dizzy, you will need the stock one with the injector trigger points at the bottom of the can. The pertronix will work very well with the D-jet, since the Djet does not use that for the FI.
Here's a 1.7 dizzy.
It has a tall can to hold the trigger points in the bottom and the igniton stuff in the top.
Pertronix will work great. But, the fuel injection requires a special ignition curve to work properly and that is why the ignition parts include the pivoting weights 33 and vacuum can 13.
Well, after procrastinating and some other things like schoolwork and regular work, I finally got off my ass and put the pedal cluster back in the car. I'm not sure which was the bigger PIA taking it out or putting it back in.
I still need to adjust clutch play and the accelerator cable then make sure the brakes are good to go; will do that next weekend. I should have had this done yesterday but I decided to go riding in the Schwarzwald (black forest) with some other buddies of mine. We did about 200 miles through the area and hit everything from 60 degree temps to 35 degrees and 4 feet of snow still on the sides of the road.
My back end tried to highside me on a decent down a hairpin; I think she hit some black ice. Had to throw my food down like I was dirt trackin to keep from going down. Scared the bejeebus out of me!
Next project, fix the damn exhaust leak!!!! Then make sure the heater is working for the next winter.
Your car has come along way!
OK, friggin Murphy strikes again!!
So, get the initial clutch cable adjustment done, put the pedal board back in, adjust the throttle cable, now lets start her.
She's been sitting for a bit but she starts, gotta rev her to warm her up but she is running. So, as I sit there suddenly there is a loud BANG!!!
And she sounds very, very strange, not good, not good at all. OK, look around the underside, in the engine bay...still So, off I go to get the camera and record the sound more than anything to post for insight from the collective expertise of the group. Well after a bit of recording I go back to the engine bay, hey, what the hell? The spot marked 2 on the tin is missing something, yup the damn #2 plug basically blew out of the motor!
OK, maybe it shook itself loose, lets see if we can put her back in, did I mention trying to put a plug back into a cramped space is a PIA? So I get it started, and start to tighten it, so far so good....damn! Yep, threads are stripped.
Before I get into my options, some history, all the plugs are the same size except the #2 plug, it is larger. I was under the assumption that the PO stripped it before and hand it re-threaded to a larger plug, is this the case or is this the way it is supposed to be?
So now, what are my options? Take the head in and get it machined and fixed to allow a new plug or is it toast and I need to get new heads entirely? Thoughts from the collective? My German neighbor suggested dynamite...
depends... I'd have a machinist check it out and see if it can be properly repaired. if not, then I'd say new heads are in your future. sounds like it may have been time-serted once already, may not be wise to do it again
A good machinist can weld and redrill and tap the hole to the correct size plug.
Well gents, thanks. After I got over the initial shock I began to investigate what you were talking about. I will drop the motor tomorrow so I can pull the head and take it over to a machinist who is almost literally next door to me. Hopefully it can be saved. The worst part is some corrosion and rust is forming because I haven't been able to clean her from my rides to work this winter! I'm gonna have to figure something to get all the crap cleaned up. Hopefully this is just another minor bump on the road to restoration.
Annoying but fixable.
I've use a helicoil to fix stripped spark plug holes and it worked fine. Lasted 200,000miles in a type I.
OK, I got the car up, motor down, still trying to get the motor past the CV joints. Quick question; can I remove the joints to replace the boot and flange without pulling the entire axle assembly out? I can't find anything that mentions this just info on removing it after the whole assembly is out.
OK, got the motor out and the head off. Initial inspection shows no damage to the cylinders, pistons or head itself. Looks like I will just need to have the spark plug hole fixed. I will take it to the machinist on Tuesday. In the meantime, I have some other things that I will work on while the motor is out.
Well, after dropping off the cylinder head with a shop that specializes in aluminum and cylinder heads, I headed off to Vicenza, Italy. I got back yesterday and picked up the head and the problem with the sparkplug is now resolved. These guys filled in the hole and then re-drilled and threaded it to the correct size.
Now I just have to re-assemble the head, put it back on the motor, re-install everything, adjust valves and I should be back in business. Hopefully this weekend cause I won't have much time after this weekend with some trips planned to Africa and North Carolina the rest of this month.
Axles are re-assembled and waiting to be put in, head is cleaned up and ready for re-install.
Question, will it be an issue if I put in the motor first then install the axles? It would be much easier to get the motor under the car and into place without the axles installed but I am sure if it will cause a problem when I have to put the axles back in or not. Maybe a noob question , got that, any helpl is appreciated.
Not that I am an expert or anything, but I put my engine in first and then put
the axles in later. I had some issues fitting them around my exhaust so you
may want to check the order of those two.
When putting together my conversion six, I had put the eng./tranny up into the car with no axles attached. I went ahead and installed the headers only to find out that the axles wouldn't go on with the headers on. Had to remove the headers to get the axles in.....It's easy to get ahead of yourself at times.....
John, JT, thanks. I will probably try to put the engine in first. It is a royal pain go get the motor in and out with the axles hanging down especially given the fact that I am tool and equipment challenged here in Deutchland. Will do that after my myriad travel adventures.
Well ladies and gentlemen, after a couple of business trips I am now back and began working on the car again. I'll post some pictures later but I have the motor back in and will tackle the valve timing with other things tomorrow after work.
So, after I got the motor in and the axles hooked back up I decided to call it quits for today so I could get some dinner and do some other things. As I began to push the car back out of the garage in order to make room to get my bike back in, it wasn't rolling smoothly.
It would roll about an inch or two, stick then, after rocking it a bit, roll back some more. I could hear the piston's building up compression but that shouldn't affect it rolling in neutral should it?
Anyone have any idea what it is doing this? It feels like trying to turn the flywheel, you hit that sticking point where the piston has built up compression in the cylinder then it gives.
Would an improperly assembled CV joint do this? I am pretty sure I assembled all joints properly, I checked and rechecked before I put the joints and axles back together.
I can see the finish line!
I didn't get a chance to work on it last night; my new job actually has me doing stuff so I am back to the 12+ hour days that I was running before I got to Europe.
Nevertheless, I skated out relatively early and did some work for about an hour. Sure enough, I had the sucker in gear, amazing how smoothly she rolls when you take it out of gear! I am hoping that I can have everything but the exhaust put on by Friday.
I may post some questions on electrical connections, my weakest area, but I am going to try to figure it out first before I ask the question! If all goes well, I'll be taking her for a spin on Saturday and give her a good wash down!
Well, today has been a looooooooong day. First things first, IT'S ALIVE!!!!
I got the muffler on this morning, hooked up the battery, checked things over and fired her up. WOOHOO! Hey why isn't the tach moving? hmmm, let me re-connect the 'white' wire that I and some other people thought was to the FI system. Yup, that was it, go figure.
So, I took her out for a spin and wash. Spitting oil from the crankcase at the #2 cylinder push tubes. Need to fix that. Got her back, let her cool down and sealed the living shit out of the pushrod tubes! I'll crank her up again tomorrow to see if that helped fix the oil problem. I had to do this last time as well. So here are some pictures that I am finally getting around to posting. Still more work needs to be done but as long as she is running and I get her registered, I can take my time on the minutia stuff.
Almost ready; this would be the offending Zylinder Kopf
The problem hole, the guys did a good job of fixing this.
OK, time to put her back in!
Thar she goes!!
OH! This is why you put the axles on BEFORE you mount the motor!
Wound up having to pull the exhaust off to get the axle back in. I re-adjusted the throttle cable as I think it was a bit tight and not letting the mechanism fully return. I will check it again tomorrow to make sure she isn't idling too high. Also need to make sure I have the clutch adjusted properly, she seems to be shifting fairly smoothly but I want to make absolutely sure. Hope to get her registered on Monday then I can relax for at least another year.
Rats! Failed inspection, kinda thought I might but I had hope! Yeah, I know, hope is not a method. Three problems that I have to fix, two just recently manifested themselves.
1) Oil leak, push tubes are not the issue nor is the cylinder head cover and gasket. Will have to do more digging to find out where the oil is coming from.
2) Brakes are spongy and don't fully lock the wheels. This is the bigger concern. I will check fluid levels and then bleed them; I think maybe air is still in the lines?
3) E-Brake needs adjustment, it doesn't fully engage especially on the right hand side.
Unfortunately, I can't tackle these issues now as I head to Italy in the morning. It will have to wait until I get back. I think I will tackle the braking problem first as those issues are easier to resolve. Then I will dig into where the oil is seeping from. I'll get some pictures of the problem area when I get back and throw them up for the collective group to opine upon. Until then, I'm just gonna have to put it to the back of my thoughts and enjoy the motorcycle ride to Italy!
I'll be running down the Fern Pass then Timmelsjoch on the way down and running up North through Stelvio on the return. Also plan on taking a weekend trip over to Bohinj, Slovenia, this should be fun!
for your brake issue try some Porterfield pads. what side is the oil leak coming form? The pressure sender can be a source of a hidden leak.
One of the thermostat bellows bolts goes straight through the case, and could be leaking.
Hopefully not much damage to either you or the bike.... Any picts of your bike trip?
You're amazing Steve. This has been a long running saga filled with drama, suspense, heartbreak, euphoria, perseverance and humor. Just one question:
When will the movie version be released?
Good luck getting to the finish line. You deserve some quality time with that 914.
OK, I got out and started the car, of course she never does the leak thing when you just start it. So, I took it out for a 5 minute drive and got her good and warmed up. I am trying to load the vid I took to Youtube but they are not cooperating at the moment. Here are the pictures I took; as soon as I can upload the vid I will. I think I know where one of the leaks is coming from.
Wouldn't let me upload more than two pictures; here are some more.
Obviously, or at least in my mind, the oil screen cover area is leaking; easy fix. I think the shift mechanism towards the back may need some re-sealing as well.
The harder nut to crack is where the oil is coming from on the cylinder head. I know it isn't the push tubes, maybe the gasket isn't sealing right and letting some oil through?
I'll let the car cool down and then do some maintenance on what I think are obvious areas of leakage. Hopefully I can load up the video and post the link here soon.
Well, finally got the video uploaded; whether it helps or not I am not sure. Those of you who have way more experience and training than I may be able to pinpoint the suspected areas that are leaking.
Not sure it will help much, kinda crappy, es tut mir leid.
Well, I took the teener to the autocraft shop yesterday and lo and behold...they have a power bleeder! Talk about making it a lot easier! So, after bleeding, world of difference! No more sponginess. Still got oil though and I am pretty sure I know where it is coming from transmission wise.
This morning I tackled the emergency brake. Got the passenger side to work however, a caliper rebuild is in my future. I won't go into detail but Eric Shea's write up was quite helpful.
So here is the plan; I parked it in front of the inspection station. First thing Monday morning I will have her checked and hopefully pass. Since she doesn't really start to spit oil until she is nice and warm there should be no issues. Once it passes and I get it re-registered, I will bring her home and drop the motor...again.
From there I plan to completely tear her down and see if I can find where the oil is coming from. Then, clean everything up and re-assemble. I will have to replace some of the transmission gaskets so will do that as well. I don't plan on rebuilding the trans as it has caused me no problems. I want to make sure that their is not a single leak ANYWHERE in this car!!!
On another note, the engine lid bracket will have to get replaced as it is cracked, had it welded today but it didn't hold. Will work on that while I have the motor out. Also took the time to trace the wire from the electronic trunk release to find out why she wasn't working. Well, when you run a wire to ground and another wire just to the switch, you're kinda missing that important element known as...ELECTRICAL POWER! No, I didn't put it together; I'll work on that as well.
Finally, I was wondering why the defroster got no air, thought maybe the blower was bad. Still don't know if this is the case but, if there is a big hole where the air goes and then a hose that isn't connected to anything it kinda defeats the purpose of having heat exchangers. Yep gonna fix that as well. I love this car...really I do!
Of course, I will get everything torn down but will then have to wait until September to work on putting it back together since I'll be in Africa the entire month of August. Oh well, it is what it is. Wish me luck on Monday!
WOOHOO!! Passed inspection this morning! Of course, it helps that I know the guy fairly well and help him add to his military patch collection
So, the car is back in the garage, time to drop the motor and tear her back down again. Quick question; I read through Eric's brake rebuild thread and I have rebuilt brakes before however, the parts that I really need are not in the kit.
The outside adjuster screw and clip along with the inside screw in metal cap thingy are what I need for the rear brakes. How do I or can I get these parts?
Push come to shove, I'll send em off to Eric but I would prefer to do the job myself, you don't learn by having someone else do it. Anyone?
And it begins...again. Phase one of operation, 'find the F@#$%^@ oil leak' has commenced.
Looks purty don't she? Too bad it won't stay that way.
Hey look! I got my ass in the air! WOOHOO!
Phase one done, tear down starts next.
Couple of things that occurred during the drop. 3 exhaust studs came out, not stripped just unscrewed on me and the inside nut that holds the gear shift rod support bracket was stripped. I fiddled with it for an hour before I could get the actual bolt to unscrew out of the transmission. Guess I gotta fix that one.
Other than it being hot as hell here in Germany, we went from cold to damn near a heat wave It was fairly uneventful. I am unfortunately getting good at this.
I'll start initial tear down tomorrow and start trying to see if I can find out where the oil has been coming from. Unfortunately, I probably wont' start re-assembly until September as it looks like I'll be spending a month in Africa starting the end of July. Oh well, things happen, no sense getting uptight about it. I'm in no rush, want to make sure I find the problem and fix it once and for all. Wish me luck.
Well, things haven't progressed much on my end , have had a slew of other things to work on that have precluded me from doing anything on the motor.
I've also been in a battle with Christoph over money. Long story short, the German equivalent of the IRS audited his books and caught a discrepancy. He is now saying I still owe him about 2000 Euros. I have been going round and round with him and I am hoping that this last set of emails has resolved the issue. He stated that the 2000 Euros is for work done from July to December of 2009. Uhh, I picked the car up on 17 July and it has never been back to his shop!
I have the last invoice he sent me which was for all the work done up to the point I got the car back and I began checking numbers. He needs to fire his accountant! Not sure what he uses to to track his work expenses but what he billed me and what is actually reflected on the invoice don't match. I am thinking his people made a serious clerical error somewhere but I know I don't owe him any more money! Hopefully I can resolve this soon as I take off for Africa for a month here shortly. I can never seem to catch a break with this car
look for a oil leak on top of the engine as when it is blown out both bottom sides the fan is sucking oil on top usually and blowing it across the cylinders down across the pushrod tubes. Could be the oil filler tower gasket, the oil pressure sender...when you pull it apart look inside to see if its oily wet behind the fan housing on the case.
Don't feel bad about not having time to get the work done. I am sitting in Afghanistan again and my engine is still apart in my basement. I have put it together twice and had to tear it down to fix problems that I caused during assembly. Hopefully next year is the year for touring the EU in my 914. Do you still need the Historic plates for yours? I will send you an email when I get back about the inspection stuff.
Well, after a slew of other things and finally getting in all the parts save one which I will get locally, I am hoping to start the motor tear down this weekend.
The money issue with Christoph got resolved as the guys doing the book keeping were not using the correct numbers. Long story but I did quite a bit of numbers crunching and historical research on past documents and pointed out the mistakes they made.
So, the bike is back up and running, the ABS sensor on the van is fixed and I don't have any more trips to Africa until December. Time to get started...again!
The goal is to get the whole thing done before the end of October. Whether that happens or not we will see but I want it up and running so I can pull the wheels off the bike as I intend to get them powder coated black this winter. Tired of @#$%^ with the chrome! Only chrome I want is on the air cleaners and the auxiliary lights! Thinking of wrapping the exhaust is some special cloth or getting them powder coated as well.
Ok, after spending the morning making a castle out of cardboard and toilet paper roll tubes I finally got around to tearing the motor down. After separating the trans from the motor I pulled the clutch and flywheel and got quite a bit of oil, see picture.
So, is this normal or excessive? I had some oil leakage coming out of the area where the tranny and motor mated so I am of the thought that this is one of the oil leaks.
The oil cooler had not oil residue where the rubber gaskets were mounted so that is not the issue on the front. I will hopefully get around to breaking the motor down the rest of the way tomorrow. Hopefully I will find where the leak is from the front when I do this.
OK, so remember the plan I had to get the motor done by the end of October? Yeah....about that.
So, after a trip to San Antonio to deal with an ailing father, I am back in Germany and getting ready to tackle the motor rebuild again. Before I left I had completed cleaning most of the case up and had re-sealed and assembled the case.
I need to finish some final cleaning on the #1 cylinder area of the case before I call that complete. Once that is done I will move to the cleaning of the cylinders and pistons then installment of front and rear seals as well as re-checking end-play.
I am hoping that I can get the motor finished up and re-assembled during the long Thanksgiving weekend. I still need to tackle the transmission though so getting the car on the road will take a bit. Guess I'm riding the bike in the cold again this winter! Good think I got new rubber, brake pads and a new clutch put in!
Now, I need to re-do the mounting brackets for the engine lid as the driver's side L-bracket is cracked. I am thinking the best bet remove both old brackets and put in two new ones, preferably ones I bolt in. Anyone have any recommendations?
I also need to re-install new heater cable wires and check that the existing blower is actually working. It seems that I am never done with this thing but then I'm preaching to the choir on this forum. Let the madness continue!
Good to know you are still at it.
Um, cycling is good for you anyway....
Did you get the stripped holes issue figured out? How's your project coming along?
You need to do an RFO for sunny warm FT. Drum. You would have so much time on your hands.
Well, haven't had much time to work on the motor as of late but I did get the timesert kit in and fixed the small bolt issue. I was hoping to get more done than that but it's been a bit hectic as of late. Can't do much this weekend since the wife is in Copenhagen, Denmark with her friends and I have the denizen of destruction for all this past week and weekend. Working on teaching her how to pour a good scotch!
Wife gets back tomorrow but I then take off for NC for a conference next week and get back on Friday at which point I get the youngun again since the wife will be in Paris for the weekend with some other friends of her. I did get the oil in the Toyota changed this morning, took me a whopping 15 minutes to include filter change. Of course the knucklehead in front of me took a friggin hour! Some people should not be allowed to work on their cars...wait, I'm probably one of them
So, I guess this project is at a standstill at the moment; say la vie.
Well, I finally got started again...just in time to head to Africa...again. I did get the oil sump bolt holes for the taco plate done so that should be a non-issue.
After some vigorous cleaning and other work, I have the motor out of the basement and partially assembled. Cleaned up the pistons and cylinders, reinstalled them along with the seals and cylinder head. Need to put in the oil tubes and rods then can finish the rest of the motor assembly. I am pretty sure I have covered all the bases on oil leak possibilities!
Moved the gearbox to the basement yesterday, will clean that up and replace some seals when I get back from my foray into the wilds of Africa. Once that is done, I need to clean up the heat exchange system and do some brazing to fill in some holes in the exchanger. Haven't done brazing in years but I think I can figure it out without too much problems. It wasn't that hard as I recall....
Once that is done, on to the final assembly! I need to have it done before June as I have to re-register it on post. Once I get it past inspection the next project is to replace all 4 brake calipers with Eric's rebuilt ones. After that, I ain't touching her until I get it back stateside. Need to work on my MG motor so I can tackle that project when I return to the states.
Oh wait, I forgot, need to fix the engine bay mounting brackets after I get the car up and running. Otherwise she won't close. Will have to pull off both brackets and put in new ones. One is riveted in so won't be an issue, the other unfortunately is welded! That should be fun
Any progress is good progress. Good luck.
OK, started on the transmission yesterday. Fun...I got the rear plate off but then hit a snag. I have followed Red Beard's instructions as well as Bondo's in the classic's thread but the two shift rods refuse to allow me to 'tap' them in.
I can get either the 2/3 or the 4/5 rods down but when I get one down the other won't budge. So, frustrated, I did more on the motor. Got the tubes, rods, valve train and oil cooler installed. Even remembered to put the cylinder head tin on first this time!! Not that I have ever installed the tubes first...
So, I have a bit more on the motor and she is done, I just need to get the transmission torn down, inspect the gears and conduct repairs as needed. Anyone got any ideas on what I am possibly doing wrong on the transmission tear down? I sent Bondo a PM and left a note on the PP forum as well. Unfortunately, I am traveling again tomorrow so won't be able to pursue this more until I get back.
As a last question, anyone ever blast the trans case to clean it before painting? I don't have a cleaner available but I do have a blaster but want to get feed back before I tackle the case; if I can blast it the cleaning will be quicker otherwise, I do the old fashioned hand and wire brush method.
I think you need to review my pictorial on removing the stack. You can not select 4/5 and 2/3 if it is working correctly. You only need to select 5th (rod in) to pull the stack. The rest of them dont need to be messed with.
Click on my rebuild link below and I have instructions for pulling the stack.
Need a rebuild DVD???
OK, so, after three weeks of traveling to take care of my father who passed away this past May. I finally got back around to the car. Mike, AKA Dr. Evil, sent me his DVD for tranny rebuild which I began watching to see how the written tutorial coincided with the video. I like the video better as I learn better seeing the actual action so thanks Mike!
Now, the only thing I will complain about is the fact that the good doctor makes removing the snap rings off the dog teeth easy... not so much. Although, I think he had a bigger tool than I did Seriously, his snap ring removal tool was bigger than the dinky German one I have and I believe that size does make a difference in this case.
So where do we stand right now? Well, the case is being cleaned, will get it back next week and, the gear stack is completely broken down.
Well, I didn't understand the 'roof line' comment at first while watching the video but once I 'looked' at the gears and sliders I understood what he meant. As anticipated in Mike's comments, the slider for 4 and 5 wasn't in too bad shape but the 2/3 slider has some flat roof tops and need's replacement. I will probably replace both slider for good measure. What concerned me more was the 1/R slider which is the expensive one. I am think that this is toast, thoughts?
I will attach a picture of the synchro rings in the next post for comments.
OK, pictures of the synchro rings; I stacked them together and took the photo. I am thinking a couple will need replacement but I need to re-watch the inspection portion of the video before I complete the assessment.
Will probably order everything this week but have a heavy travel schedule for July so won't get to it until August. In the meantime, hope all you fathers out there had a happy father's day!
4 bad rings
Your first slider needs a shot across the flat side at the teeth, basically a profile shot from the outside in. It looks gone in the original pic.
I have parts for low $$
Oh ya, I will bet that you have a bad 2-5 slider, particularly on the 2nd gear side, and bad teeth on 1st and 2nd (maybe 3 and 4 as well looking at those rings). PM me and I will get you a parts list.
my email for pics is MakeMy914go at yahoo
OK, so, after close to two months on the road between Africa and the US I am finally back in Deutschland for almost a whole month!
So I began re-assembly of the transmission starting with the pinion gear.
As one can see, this went fairly smoothly. Of course it helped that I had Mike's DVD playing as I did it. I would stop, rewind, pause, then move forward again to make sure I had things straight.
Yes, that's a potty training seat in the background, anyone need one?
Next, on to the drive shaft assembly. Again, same thing, play, pause, reverse, play, pause, move forward. I thought I was doing well until I tightened down the stretch bolt.
What I noticed in Mike's video was the whole pinion assembly turned freely when he turned the drive shaft. Mine did too UNTIL I tightened the bolt the the required 80ft lbs. After that, it didn't turn like it did before.
So, I sent a note to Mike and what you see above is where I have stopped for today. I don't want to get too far along if I need to disassemble the gear stack again to make sure I put it together properly. Hopefully I can tackle it a bit more later tonight or tomorrow. Slowly moving forward and yes, I painted everything yellow, better to see leaks with!
Did you put the washer under the stretch bolts?? Sounds like they are missing and if so it will bind.
Sorry, scratch my last. I thought you were talking about the out put flanges.
If binding happens after tightening the main pinion bolt, then I am betting the impression that you may have mixed up the thrust washers under 1st, 2nd and over fifth.
A couple of other thoughts:
Are the gears with steps on them oriented correctly?
3 with step towards int plate
I can see 4 is correct
Is 5 correct?
Still thinking thrust washer issue. There are 3. The thinnest goes under 1st. Under 2 and over 5 needed to be kept not-mixed-up as doing sow will give you your symptoms.
I will check on everything you posted as a potential culprit and let you know what I discover.
So, upon inspection, Master Evil correctly deduced that I had boogered up the Pinion shaft assembly. Mixed up the spacer after 5th gear on the shaft. Fixed that, put it together, torqued it and TADA! Works like a champ.
So on to the rest of the assembly, got the forks on and adjusted according to Mikes intensely detailed procedure for tail shifters... he, he, he, he...will post pictures later. Began the inspection of the case and installed the seals and, as Mike pointed out is often the case, no throw out bearing guide clips were anywhere to be found. At least he had one in his video, I had none! So I'll be stopping by the local Porsche dealer to see if I can get my hands on a pair.
Shouldn't derail the rest of the assembly though so will move forward the rest of this week with the hopes of getting it put together by the end of the week! Famous last words
It's done! The Tranny that is, still have more work to do on the car but I got the final piece on this morning and then made sure all the bolts were torqued properly.
I almost had it done on Saturday but the tail cone gave me a bit of a challenge and I was tired so I figured I'd try again the next morning.
Mike's video was a tremendous help and he has the patience of a saint when dealing with retards like myself! Now, I need to get to work on the shift linkage, heating system and then re-do the engine bay brackets and she should be rolling. Once I get the motor married up and everything mounted we'll see if I put everything together correctly on the tranny.
Some pictures, again, yes, its 'sunflower yellow.' Easier for me to see leaks with!
We head to Tuscany for a mini-vacation then I am on the road again for work so the next step will have to wait a bit. Hopefully I can get it done before it gets to cold.
OK, so, after a rather frigid friggin winter here in Germany and a lot of travel, I finally started working on the car again. As noted previously, I got the transmission done thanks to the helpful advice of Herr Evil
So, I began working on the shift linkage assembly to hopefully remove some of the slop; yeah I know, the only way to really get rid of it is to get me a side shifter. Eventually but right now the Tail shifter is what I have to work with.
I looked up some of the threads on PP and began down that road rebuilding the shifter assembly first then moving on to doing some other parts inspections and replacements. I replaced some bushings and balls and, after close inspection and cleaning of the shift rod, had to replace that as well. towards the front of the rod where it mates to the balls on the back of the firewall, there was a rather large 'slice' for lack of a better word that split the rod. It was about 2 inches long and about 3mm wide. Luckily, there is a guy here in Germany who has a lot of used parts that I was able to get a new/used rod from.
After all that was done I began cleaning the engine tin screws. Discovered an interesting phenomenon. If you put the screws into 'rust treatment' solution, a German brand, and forget about it for a week, when you get back, you have what looks like a fossilized rock from a tar pit. The solution solidified around all the screws! Guess I'll be getting new screws.
So I decided to tackle the re-threading of the heater cables. WHAT A ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Not that I wasn't expecting that, as I searched the forum for 'solutions' to get the driver side cable through the bend it was clearly evident that this was not going to be easy. I did it though and got a good layer of grease on the inside of the tubes to keep em moving smoothly.
Time to replace the heater hoses, that was easy, check the flapper boxes, they are ugly but move fine. Still need to wire the heater lever to the control panel but I may actually have heat in the car this winter!
So what do I have left? Well here is my list at the moment.
1. Replace exhaust studs.
2. Install new exhaust gaskets.
3. Fill up transmission with fluid.
4. Finish assembling motor with transmission.
5. Clean up the carbs (they have been sitting so I am pretty sure the gas has crystallized on the needles.)
6. Finish wiring the heater lever to the control box.
7. install the motor.
8. Time the motor.
9. Get it inspected.
At this point I just need her to run reliably without any major exhaust or oil leaks. Once this is done, I can get her registered and then she is ready to ship back stateside next year. I have one more year here in Germany then I head back to the states.
After I put my MG back together, I'll completely tear the 914 down to the frame and start all over again! But this time it will be a methodical and deliberate process that gets her completely up to snuff. I sometimes wonder if I have taken leave of my senses but then I remember that I re-married and had another kid so the answer is...yes.
OK, I'm on the home stretch, exhaust studs...good, gaskets...good. Air flap roller...what? Well this sucks, I don't have one.
So, I can't finish putting in the bellows and hook it up to the cooling flap assembly without this piece. I have an email out to Patrik Hess here in Germany to see if he has one then it struck me, it's just a pulley wheel, wonder if I could just buy the wheel at a hardware store and retrofit it?
Here is my question, anyone know the diameter of the pulley wheel?
I have no idea what a air flap roller is. Gottsa picture?
OK, looks like we're going to plan 'B' for the roller as my supplier here doesn't have any so, off to Hornbach this week to find a suitable replacement.
I do have a question though, since the hole goes all the way through I would assume that the bolt holding the roller is fairly tight to keep oil from leaking. This of course means the 'roller' doesn't really 'roll' now does it.
So is it a safe assumption to say that I should, 'grease' the cable lightly and the surface of the roller where the cable makes contact heavily or is the friction so slight that it doesn't really matter?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Could be (I have no first-hand experience...) the roller has a sleeve bushing/bearing on which it rotates. That would be my guess.
Alternatively, your bolt #20 could be a shoulder screw with a long unthreaded portion to act as an axle.
If you're building up something from generic industrial parts, either approach could work. You could possibly just use a stud and add spacers to secure a bushing/bearing for the roller to spin on, with a locking nut on the outside.
I'd think there's no hope of a threadlocker actually sealing a threaded hole with oil in it.
Oh ya, Duh! Here's a bump. Maybe someone has the correct bolt and roller they can send you.
Well, the new clutch disc came in this past week and worked perfectly. Clearly, I managed to screw up the old clutch disc which is why she wasn't cooperating.
So, progress was made today and the motor and tranny are mated.
I need to put on the tin and she'll be ready for installation. In the mean time, I started tackling the engine lid bracket problem. The drivers side bracket was cracked at the bend and the passenger bracket was clearly an 'add on.' So I started to remove both.
After...not quite done yet:
As one can see, a bit of some metal work is going to be in order. Anyone got any tricks on this one before I continue? I miss my tools, I could have easily cut out the bad patch if I had just had all my tools brought over.
Guess I'll go and see if I can find someone with a 220 dremel so I can cut out the rest of the driver's side bracket. Then I'll need to do some patching and welding before I can get the new brackets in. Nothing is ever easy with this car!
Damn, Stephen! You are a heck of a trooper!! I just read the whole thread, what a journey. I hope you get it back together and get to finally enjoy it!
Thanks for your service
OK, got a lot of work done this past 4th of July. Spent it in the garage working on the teener...I can see the finish line!
So, got the other bracket cut out and treated both with a rust preventer to stop any flash rust.
Next I went to work on assembling the tin and getting things put back together.
She's pretty much ready to go; I will need to get the brackets for the engine lid put in first though before I reinstall the motor. Gonna go talk to the body shop down the street tomorrow to see how much the Germans will charge me to do the work. Hopefully I don't have to put a lien on the new car to get this done
Speaking of which...new car, picked it up today; 2013 Volvo XC70. We transer our 2005 Toyota Sienna to its new owner tomorrow.
So, I have looked at some threads but would like some recommendations on what type of oil to use. Mind you, I can't get the special stuff that Jake R has available as it won't ship here so looking for what is the best oil weight to use and brand. I'm a bit limited on what I can get here, recommendations?
So, the body shop down the street will be coming by to pick up the car and put in the new engine lid brackets today.
Had to roll her out of the garage in preparation of the pick up. I also got the carbs put back on this past weekend as well. I need to run the fuel lines to the carbs and get them ready then need to re-route and attach the wiring harness to there respective connections. I always forget what goes where, I guess this is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and a professional. I'll just have to do some reading and research to make sure I put everything back where they belong.
It will take some time but that is not an issue as I'll be in Africa again on Thursday and won't be back for about a week and a half. I am hoping the work is done when I get back so I can finish up a few other things and put the motor back in after I get back. I would like to get everything re-installed before my motorcycle trip in August as she'll need to get re-registered by September.
After searching I found the Jake Raby thread on oil. Well, I can't get Brad Penn oil here so I called Royal purple and talked to one of their technicians who recommended using their Maxcycle 20/50 oil. Anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils? My choices here in Deutschland are a bit limited so I'm looking for options. They also thought I could use their XPR 20/50 but thought it might be a bit of overkill.
OK, I've been a bit busy between traveling for work and working on two major exercises that I am running logistics for. Add on the fact that my eldest daughter came over from Italy last week and I just haven't had time to work on the teener.
Well, the eldest went back to Italy and the wife is off to meet her in Paris this week leaving me with the newly minted 7 year old, she had her birthday on the 8th of this month.
The neighbor has invited her for a sleep over so she'll be over there all day which means...I GET TO WORK ON THE CAR THIS WEEKEND!!
She came back from the body shop and they did a good job of re-welding and mounting the engine lid. My NCO who is a mechanic may come over to help but I think it is only so I give him free beer No matter, I told him he can't have beer until AFTER we get the motor in and hooked up. With any luck, I'll have her running by Sunday, hmm, where have I heard that before...
I'll post some pictures of the newly mounted lid tomorrow along with, hopefully, a remounted motor. Wish me luck!
OK, the plan didn't quite go as I wanted it to as the neighbor went shopping with Rianna's buddy so I had to find ways to keep the munchkin entertained while I worked on the car.
I did get pics of the work on the new mounting brackets for the lid.
So, after making sure I had all the necessary bolts, brackets, nuts, etc. I started the process of getting the motor in the car. First order of business, pull out the bikes, back out the car and center it in my tiny German garage. Because I share a driveway, I can't just pull her out and work on her in the driveway.
Ready to start.
OK, were ready to go!
During the process of jacking the car up I had Rianna come out about every 15 minutes, 'I'm bored! I have no one to play with!' OK, we can fix that...
OOPS! Pulled the bolt out and lost my balance!
I only let her unscrew and pull out two bolts on each wheel, she wanted to do all of them but I explained that the tire would fall on her so she was happy to do the two bolts on each tire instead. Since I was also waiting for some of the brackets to dry before I could proceed, I decided to cut the grass as it sorely needed it. Guess who wanted to help again...
I bet she won't want to do this when she is a teenager!
I probably would have gotten all the grass done a lot quicker had I not had her 'helping.' Oh well, it kept her busy until lunch. Thankfully she started on her Lego Friends kit after lunch so stayed self entertained the rest of the afternoon. At least most of the time. She'd come out every now and again to get me to help her with her little project.
By around 1800 I got the motor in and the axles connected to the gearbox. I still need to run the fuel electrical and oil collection lines. I don't know how much I will get done tomorrow since you aren't allowed to do anything on Sundays in Germany but I will do what I can. In the mean time, here are the remaining pics for the day.
I REALLY NEED A BIGGER WORK AREA!!
We'll see how much I get done tomorrow; gotta help Rianna with her homework and clean and oil the chain on the BMW. Hopefully I can tackle most of the electrical and fuel lines tomorrow.
Well now, here I sit in the lovely Atlanta airport. I'm waiting for my connecting flight to Fayetteville, NC. Thankfully, I was able to get quite a bit done on the car yesterday. I got the shift linkage hooked up, clutch cable hooked up, heat exchangers in place and the exhaust is ready to be put on. I had hoped to get more done but I had to clean up the heat exchangers before I could put them in and the previous weekend's snow didn't help.
I'll be in NC for about two weeks, a week at a planning conference and then a week on a track of sorts for high threat personnel tactical training. I get to spend the week doing silly shit in a car and learning to shoot out of them while moving. Should be fun!
Hopefully the weather will cooperate when I get back as the finish line isn't far away to getting her on the road and I have a feeling I'll be needing her this winter. So, what do I have left?
1. finish exhaust install
2. hook up heater box cables to the heat exchangers
3. hook up electrical wiring (my biggest weakness)
4. hook up fuel lines
5. hook up oil/vapor lines for carbs
6. adjust clutch and fuel pedal play
7. time the motor
Basically ankle biters. My biggest problem will be remembering where the damn wires go, as stated above, I suck at electrical wiring for the car. A house I can do, cars tend to befuddle me. I need to take a class on electrics.
I'm hoping that I get some time when I get back as I won't be back for long; I have to head to Africa again right after Turkey Day. I didn't get any pics this time, I'll get some after I get her back up and running.
So relaxing on Christmas day for me was working on the teener. I got the throttle cable hooked up, adjusted the gearshift rod and clutch pedal play. Then finished the heat exchanger hook up, partially, before I called it quits. I have to finish the heat exchanger cable hook up before that is done. I'm getting ready to tackle more this weekend but had a question on setting up the breather and no, I am not running this on the track.
I have the CB performance box which will do for now and have looked at several threads. My question is should the box drain back into the heads or into the carbs?
I saw several pictures of different hook ups, some complex some very simple but I thought the whole point of the breather was to catch the oil then let it drain back into the motor. If she drains into the carbs, doesn't that kinda gum them up a bit?
Just looking for some advice before I tackle this aspect of the rebuild, any info people can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Sorry to join this thread late, but you need to port your breather box BEFORE the throttle venturies/butterfly plates or else you'll have your whole crank case in a partial vacuum and you'll be chasing mixture issues as the engine loosens up.
Don't use the manifold ports for this. You can use them to equalize between the two sides, but it is bad idea to use them for crankcase breathing.
Just think, if ANY gasket starts to leak (top of a valve cover or the breather tower for examples) then you'll start sucking air through them and your mixture will go lean.
I think the port they speak of is the HEAD breather port which is found on D-Jet cars and vents the gasses from each head.
I hope this helps.
But do use a hose to connect those manifold vents on each side to the other. It smooths out side-to-side vacuum differences so the car idles a bit better.
There's a few concepts here, loosely related but they all come together.
The breather box is designed to relieve pressure from places it shouldn't be, but is. One is the crankcase. Positive pressure here is always bad, and all cars have some way of venting this pressure. In Ancient Tymes it was just routed to atmosphere. More recently (mid 1950's) it was necessary to route it back to the intake.
The other place pressure is bad, especially in boxer engines, is the valve covers. 914's are famous for blowing out valve cover gaskets, followed by all their oil. In some years of 914's - and I don't follow the /4's that closely so check the history somewhere - there are breather ports in the heads that lead to the rocker arm area. Lots of performance VW engines from before this time found ways to add breather ports to their valve covers.
If your heads have ports, use them. If not, you might want to find a way to add them, but at this point for you, it'd just be an unnecessary complication. Connect the crankcase breather - yes, that one at the oil filler - to one of the breather box ports, and the other to the AIRBOX. Or whatever you're using to keep rain out of the carb intakes. just (somehow) run the hose to a fitting that vents to the carb side of the air cleaner.
Moving on - if you think about boxer firing sequence, you see that adjacent cylinders fire consecutively. This means the first to fire has to start the air column moving through the venturis, making it run a little lean, and the second has the advantage of the moving air column's momentum (which is significant) and tends to run rich.
With single-throat carbs and manifolds, it's helpful to balance the airflow with a big pipe between the manifolds. That lets some of the vacuum from the other side of the engine keep the air column moving so the first-to-fire cylinder doesn't run so lean. VW has used this trick for a long some, back to at least the early twin-carb T-III engines.
So the _only_ place to connect the manifold ports is to each other. It will help a lot. If you can't arrange for an appropriate hose, plug the ports until you can find the right hose.
OK, got a lot of work done today. Got all but the battery hooked up, finished the heater box set up, had to pull the wires and re-route them. Luckily one of the guys on my team popped over cause he was bored and made it a lot easier with four sets of hands.
Got the exhaust on, pulled the driver seat out and installed the new seat adjustment handle. We'll see how long before it breaks based on comments from DD that I read when I looked up how to install the dang thing. Its the plastic handle.
So all I have left is to hook up the battery, run the breather lines, add oil, and time the motor. Tomorrow is put away all the Christmas stuff day so I won't get anything done tomorrow. Especially given the fact that we are moving in about 6 months so will go through everything to see what we can sell here in Germany before heading back stateside.
If I'm fortunate, I'll get to finish everything up on Monday. That being said and based on the plethora of comments for the breather, my plan is as follows.
1. Run a line from one intake port to the other per recommendations.
2. Drill and install a port on top of each carb lids and run lines from the sides of the CB breather to each carb.
3. Run a line from the front of the breather to the oil filler port and cap off the extra port on the breather.
Any issues with this plan? If all goes well, I'll have her registered by the end of this coming week. Provided the inspectors aren't fucktards. They got a new crew in and a couple of them are complete assholes who try to find ways to fail the 'Americans' cars during inspection.
You really only need to vent the breather to one carb. More is just weight, expense, clutter, and stuff to go wrong. Pick whichever is closest.
If you want two for the symmetry, go for it, but it won't buy you anything.
Well, back to work after the new year and other than annoying retards who are trying to get me to do their job, were doing well. That being said...
She's done! Well relatively speaking.
Everything is assembled I just have to check timing. Unfortunately, she'll crank but isn't starting at the moment. She's getting fuel, I can see it squirting into the carbs when I move the throttle lever between the carbs.
Anyone got any hints or suggestions?
Here is the picture of what I did for the breather unit and the engine bay.
Necessity being the mother of invention, I had to route a hose between ports since I couldn't find any caps to close them off.
I rechecked all the wiring and everything is good and you can here her cranking but she just isn't starting. If I can get her started and make sure the timing is good then I can get her registered this week.
static-time to 6º BTDC and it will start, then go from there.
if it doesn't start there, your problem is not timing.
I know you said you checked the wiring, and when I read you had trouble getting her started/running, it reminded me of an embarrassing personal experience for me about 30 years ago. So, not trying to insult here, just check the obvious. This is what happened to me.
I had just finished putting the heads back on and reinstalling a fuel injected 1974 2.0L. I remember worrying about checking everything on the fuel injection. I was so worried about it. After the engine was back in the car and everything was "ready" to go, it wouldn't start. I had a friend come over that weekend and we looked over all the potential trouble areas. So finally my friend says, looking at the wires running from the distributor to the spark plugs, are you sure you have this right, it looks wrong to him? I'm thinking, what, are you kidding me? How could I get something that simple incorrect after having put the rest of the engine back together? Well, he leans into the engine bay and just arbitrarily switched two of the plug wires.
The car started up easily and idled as smooth as a sewing machine. I never forgot that mistake.
I had my tachometer wire on the wrong terminal of the coil. That prevented start.
Same scenerio. Friend comes over after 2 days of trying....this isnt right....and away we go.
Do you have a second set of eyes to help out?
Check to see if you have spark. An extra plug can help with that. If not, troubleshoot the ignition system.
Thanks all, I have a friend of mine coming over this morning. He was a school house instructor for the Army mechanic school. After doing some research on setting static timing to 6 deg BTDC it occurred to me that I may not have installed the distributor correctly and have a misaligned drive gear.
I will begin the process this morning of making sure I have TDC marked correctly on the impeller as the mark is not clear and I am not totally sure it is right. Once I get that sorted, I will re-install the distributor and then have my buddy explain the nuances of setting static timing. I did forget to mention that the PO installed a petronix kit so there are no points. Hopefully, I'll have her up and running today, wish me luck!
Houston...we have ignition!
So after about 3hrs of trial and error, Paul, my buddy, and I finally got the dizzy set up properly. Once we got that aligned properly...tada! She starts up and runs like a champ. I had to adjust the idle as she was running at about 300 rpms but once that was fixed she held a steady and smooth 1500 rpms.
We delved into the dynamic timing next and got her smoothed out. So what are the finishing touches? I need to recheck shift rod adjustment and clutch adjustment, she wasn't going into gear very smoothly. I then need to make sure the emergency brake is adjusted to ensure it locks when they put her on the machine.
I'll work on that this week if I get a chance; I'd do more work today but I am woefully late on completing a report for an investigation I was tasked with a while back so I have to dedicate the rest of today to that.
Once I get her past inspection and registered I need to take her over to the shipping guys to get a preliminary assessment on what I need to do to get her ready for shipment back stateside. The backup plan if they are too difficult is to send her back the way she came. This would mean a road trip to Sigonella, Italy to put her on a Navy ship that is going back stateside and, since it looks like I am now locked in for Norfolk, VA as my next assignment, I'll be right where the ship will drop the car off. So far, things are going well, hopefully my luck holds.
Very cool and congratulations on getting the heart beating.
OK, so I did the gear shift rod adjustment then checked the clutch pedal, she still needs a couple of minor tweaks. So, go to start her, she isn't quite responding, could be the fact that it is 37 friggin degrees outside. After a while she begins to catch and then nothing. Kinda like she got stuck. OK, put her in 5th, push! She rolls and it feels like something unstuck itself. Get back in, crank her, she starts! Not sure what was sticking.
When i'd crank her it was like someone grabbed the flywheel for a sec then let go. Any ideas?
So, I get her running and warmed up, time to take her for a spin. She seems to be shifting OK, not great but OK. She goes into gear smoothly I just don't think I have the rod from the stick back to the rear set quite right yet. Then...she sticks and I get a high idle at 3000 RPM. Let off the gas and she keeps high idling. The problem is somewhere with the carbs. On a positive note, no oil leak or transmission fluid leak that I could find after driving her around for about 30 minutes.
Just gotta figure out the idle, the gearshift and clutch adjustment I can figure out without any issues. I really wish the PO hadn't taken the FI system out. Hopefully I can figure these last bits out so I can get her through inspection. Once that is done then I just gotta make sure she is clean and ready for the shipment back to the states. Frustrating to say the least.
Well, woke up to snow this morning. So I cleared a path and pulled the bikes out then started work on the teener. Pulled both carbs and found the issue with the high idle. The accelerator pump connection was getting hung up and leaving the butterfly open. Fixed that and reset each carb back to pre-tune setup according to the Dellorto manual.
Tackled the shift linkage next and got that sorted out then tried to start her up. Well, looks like I need a new starter...dang. Ran over to the Porsche dealer but this is Germany, they close early so at 1530 the SOBs were closed. My German neighbor is looking to see if she can find me someone who rebuilds starters but in the meantime I'll do a bit of a comparison to see who has the better price and can get it to me quicker online. Won't pull the trigger until Monday though; if I can't get a starter relatively quick and that's affordable here in Germany then I'll order it.
At least I know she runs, I just want to make sure I have found the cause of the high idle. Just when I think she is done...another issue pops up. Say la vie.
OK, pulled the starter and battery. When you bench test her she works fine, pinion gear shoots out and spins quickly. Battery is solid. Put her back in the car, try to start her; turn, catch, turn, catch, turn, catch now click. I think she is stuck forward.
So, what else could be the problem? The grounds are tight, any suggestions on what I should be checking/testing? I'm at a loss.
Did you try cranking over the engine by shorting out the leads on the starter? If when you short out the leads, thus connecting the battery directly to the starter and engage circuit, cutting out the loop involving the key, if it does not turn over and you know the battery is good then your starter is in need of replace/repair.
I forgot to try it with the headlights on. I do know that when I ran into this earlier I had it hooked up to my Volvo after I had run the battery down a bit. It still did it; so does this indicate starter?
Mike, I had not tried shorting it out; a bit more challenging without a lift. I'm thinking of getting a volunteer to do this...he, he, he, he...
Prior to this, I never had a problem which is why I am leaning towards this being a starter issue. The battery consistently tests at between 12.3 and 12.2 so I am sure the battery isn't the issue. I'll try again tomorrow and start her with the headlights on and see if she dims significantly...provided I'm not snowed in. German weather says snow tomorrow; we'll see if it holds true.
Is that 12.3-2 with a load on the battery? If it drops significantly with a load then your battery is done. Also, the circuit to activate the starter can drop a significant amount of voltage, enough to cause this. This problem is fairly common.
Yeah I was thinking about that; I may try that today.
Thanks, I'll hook her up to the Volvo and see if she'll charge up enough to try again. Hopefully I won't be doing this in snow but we will see, not the first time I've worked on her in the snow. It'd be nicer if the friggin garage had power but the guy who built the house used the lowest bidder so the power to garage shorts every time it rains or is really cold. Needless to say, I stay out of the snow but tend to work in the dark a lot!
Things that kicked my ass with the stock starter system...
1. old battery that drops to low voltage under a load.
2. bad ground connections.
3. too long of a positive supply wire.
4. age of the starter positive wire.
5. wear on the starter
These are the order of things... check all these. starter wear being really the last thing. I found that the original wire for the starter has had a hard life and sometimes never gets replaced. consider it good assurance to replace it eventually. I had a hot start issue that i thought was charge related and battery related. It mostly was the amount of draw when the motor was hot was too much for the old worn corroded cable to carry regardless of the state of the battery charge. And always check your ground cables/straps as people have mentioned.
OK, I think the starter is officially dead. I came home at lunch to see if I could get her to start. Hooked up the Volvo to the battery and had the wife run the RPMs up a bit, hit the ignition...Click. OK, put her in gear shove, she resists but rolls so the pinion gear doesn't seem to be stuck.
Pull off the ignition wire to the starter, put the E brake on, MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL, screwdriver in hand, crawl under...boy she sparks nicely! Scared the shit out of me! OK, calm down, try again, Click. It sounds like the solenoid is trying to push the gear forward but not having much success.
Well, screw it, lets see how much a new starter runs locally. Talked to the bane of free market existence otherwise known as AAFES. Yeah, they can get a starter, re manufactured one for $450! Are you assholes high?!
OK, I know it won't be much better however, lets call the local VW dealer. Yep, they can get it, it will take a week, they need the old starter and it's a bargain at a mere 450 Euros! So basically, they want $600 for a starter.
Well, looks like I just ordered the high torque one from PP and it cost me under $300. I can wait for it to get here. So the wiring harness from the battery to the starter is listed as NLA on PP; any recommendations on replacing it? I'll probably replace the battery too but won't do that until I install the new starter. When in doubt, replace all of it!
I just used a big starter wire from my FLAPS, with a bolt-on terminal for the battery end. The wire came with a ring terminal at one end and bare wire at the other, and the terminal has a clamp that goes onto the bare end of the wire. There are extra wires that provide power to the rest of the car's systems, and I put ring terminals on those and put them under the bolts for the clamp-on terminal.
Here's a pic of the clamp-on type of terminal I mean:
WOOHOO Starter came in! Fastest anything has come in from PP. Anyone have experience with the high torque starter?
From what I could tell, it is pretty much plug and play on this one. Hope to get to it this weekend, weather permitting. Ice and snow has finally started to melt but I think it is gonna be COLD! Which always makes it so much fun working in a frigid garage.
Not sure which starter that is. Some of the high torque starters need to be shimmed. Mine came with a shim included. In my case I needed it. Other then that it is plug and play.
OK, I got the starter put on. As I was working the starter to battery cable I hear 'CRACK!' Well, this isn't good. Cable housing just started to crack and come off. OK, pull it off the battery and off to ATU! As expected, the German's poor excuse for an auto parts store can't help me. At least this time however, they knew who could.
So I make my way down the street about 500M and there is a shop on the left called Jaeger Autotechnik und Elekronik. Walk in show the guy what I need and within 10 minutes he makes me a new one! SWEET!
So back to the house, finish hooking it up. Crank her over, she tries to start a few times but the battery is a bit drained. Hook her up to the Volvo and crank a few times...bingo! We have ignition! I have the wife keep the RPMs up while I adjust the carbs a bit to get the right idle but she ain't cooperating. OK, wife's gotta go and take the munchkin to skating lessons. Disconnect the jumpers, turn the car off, re-check which way I'm turning the screws...oh yeah, wrong way dumbass!
Adjust back the other way, crank, she starts but the idle is still too low. Shut her off, adjust, crank again..That works! Now the idle is high but, she doesn't sputter and die when I come off the gas. Make some adjustments to bring the idle to 1500 RPMs, balance the carbs...and this is the result.
OK, so, lets back her out and check the shifting. Dang, not shifting quite right. Get out the book; read the directions on adjusting the linkage, make adjustments, nope. Still not right. So here is where I am at. Per the Haynes manual for cars pre-1973.
"1. Remove the inspection cover panel then loosen the clamp between the front shift rod and the connector rod.
2. Move the shift lever to neutral and rest the shift lever against the left stop.
3. Remove the dust cap on the transmission end of the rear shift rod and move the selector to the neutral position. Center the selector lever by sliding the rear shift rod, as necessary.
4. Tighten the front shift rod clamp then select 3rd gear with the shift lever. Check that the selector lever at the transmission is correctly engaged, readjusting if necessary.
5. Check the operation of the linkage during a test drive."
Well, I followed the directions but she still won't engage in first or 3rd. When I put her in what I am sure is 1st and start to release the clutch I get absolutely nothing. No grinding sound, no catching, nothing. When I popped her into what should have been third, she caught just a bit but then it felt like she, 'kicked' it out of gear. My assumption is that she is not going properly into gear.
So, does anyone have a picture of what it should look like when 3rd gear is properly engaged? I am pretty sure that I don't have the gear shift rod properly aligned. I followed Mike's instructions to the tee when I re-built the transmission so I am certain that this is not the issue. Any suggestions?
There's always a bit of art to this.
I think your problem is in Step 4. You select 3rd gear with the lever and you don't get 3rd at the transmission. You're supposed to then adjust until you -do- engage the desired gear.
Pictures don't help much because all the cars are different - that's why it's an art and the instructions just say 'fiddle until it's right.'
Another alternative technique is to put the transmission into a known gear and then adjust the linkage so it's right. The standard technique tries for this with neutral, but that's a big vague area.
So if you can't hit 3rd, loosen the linkage, manually select 3rd at the hockey stick, and tighten it down. Verify you can still hit 2nd at the other end of the travel - usually you have to try to split the difference on the travel so you can hit both the 'up' and the 'down' gears.
Then, once you have the travel right, you concentrate on the 'twist' adjustment that aligns the 3 planes.
It's easy to get confused since you have the direction-reversing lever/pivot to deal with. Patience...
OK, got her sorted. I pulled both gearshift rods apart and started from scratch. After tightening her I checked every position running from Reverse up to 5 to see where the rod at the trans was positioned. Tightened her down and gave it a whirl. WOOHOO! It works!
Took her for a spin and stopped at the gas station to pump up the tires. The first trip was short, I had to come back because she was making a weird sound. I got back and, HOLY SHIT! The rear left wheel was trying to fall off! All the damn lugs loosened up. OK, tighten, torque, check the other lugs. Try again, ahh much brtter! Still high idling though, pull over and check the drivers side carb. Yup, dang accelerator pump on the carb is still sticking.
Get her home, back out the tiny nut and add some WD 40; that seems to have done the trick. I'll let her sit and try her again tomorrow. I need to check adjustment on the Emergency brake before I try to run her through inspection. Still no exhaust or oil leak that I can see so we are doing well thus far.
I'll re-torque the wheel nuts again tomorrow to make sure they are good then re-install the engine lid and adjust the E-brake. Lets see if she has any issues starting tomorrow. She definitely does not like the cold. I bet she was fine when she was still fuel injected, not a fan of carbs at the moment!
OK, failed inspection...knew it wasn't gonna pass though. The primary culprit was the rear right brake with parking brake engaged. She just didn't hold. Of course the reverse lights and high beams didn't come on either. Those caught me by surprise. No worries. I tore into the rear right brake and pulled the caliper as I adjusted the cable already and that is not the issue. This is what I found.
Yeah, pretty much toast. After doing the initial disassemble of the caliper I got stuck on how to get the piston out. Do a little search and BAM! THANK YOU ERIC SHEA! I came across his thread with the video that shows the tear down and reassembly with his kit. Well, Sorry Eric but I don't have time to order your full kit but I truly do appreciate the excellent video you did.
So I tore her down with the exception of the hand brake mechanism and pulling out the adjuster from the piston. You can see the 'gunk' at the bottom of both caliper bodies after the pistons are out.
Of course Eric makes it look easy, kinda like Mike makes it look easy in his gearbox rebuild. Got a good size gash up my left pointer finger from a slipped dental pick!
So, I just have to finish cleaning everything up and then check to see if the local Porsche dealer can get me the basic rebuild kit. Since ATE is a German company I think this should be fairly easy... Nothing in this friggin country is easy.
Quick question for the group or Eric whoever responds first, can I use lithium grease for the re-assembly or do I need to find assembly grease? Or, am I a dumbass and they are the same?
The dealer may not be able to get you a rebuild kit. The ones that are available over here are from some other car that has the right sized bits and pieces for the 914 rear caliper, and I don't know what car that is. It also doesn't have all of the parts for a complete rebuild (I think it's the E-brake mechanism bits that are lacking). Those have been reproduced or sourced alternately from someone else.
So you may be waiting for the kit from Eric anyway.
OK, Christoph at Boxer motors was able to get me the basic kit with the seals. The Porsche dealer could only get me the retaining ring and protector cap. Long story short, they ordered it without me telling them to do so then got mad and 'banned' me from their dealership when I told them that I did not want it as I found a complete kit from somewhere else. Really?
My neighbor was talking to them since his English wasn't that great he then told her that she couldn't shop there ever either. She told him, 'and? This is not a problem, I do not have a Porsche.'
OH yeah, they were gonna charge me 27 Euro or about $30 for a set of retaining rings and dust caps. I'll pay about 25 euros for the kit from Chritoph which the wife will get from him tomorrow. Meanwhile I'll finish cleaning up the caliper body and prep everything to be put back together tomorrow. Once I get that back together I'll reinstall, bleed (UGH!) and adjust and see where that puts us. I'll rebuild the left side AFTER I get it back through inspection. Just gotta figure out the light problem.
A common problem with the back-up lights is that the pin that activates the switch wears and winds up too short to activate it. I have heard of people making new pins out of appropriate-sized drill bits...
Dangit! I had gotten everything put together for the caliper and was trying to get the spring for the e-brake in when I noticed that the piston was no longer pushing forward when the lever was actuated. It was working before I put on the retaining ring what the hell!
OK, back out the plug, stick a 4mm allen head in there, turn...nothing. I recall Eric, in his video, mentioning that sometimes they get stuck so when you pull in the piston, back it out a bit. I did that, then adjusted it to get the retaining clip on...looks like I didn't back it out again. So now what? Eric stated that when this happens you need to use a high speed air wrench to get it out. I pulled the retaining ring and dust cover off of it and can shoot over to the auto hobby shop tomorrow but, just want to make sure what it is I need to do.
NEVERMIND! I get frustrated so post; then, after I post, I think of an idea, try it and, it usually works.
Dowsed it with penetrating oil, let it soak for a bit, turn her over and whack the backside with a hammer a couple of times to loosen it up. Put the adjusting gear in and turn...wella!
Pulled the piston all the way out and cleaned everything up again. Will re-assemble tomorrow and make sure I don't make the same mistake. If I had any sense, I would have sold this car a year after I got it! Well, no one said I had much sense. Besides, I do like a challenge
Just ignore the short Chinese guy pretending to be a mechanic...nothing to see...move along...
OK, caliper is back together and installed. I evidently didn't do a good job of stopping brake fluid from leaking after I pulled the caliper. Bit of a mess to clean up before I got everything put back together.
Needless to say, I need to add fluid tomorrow and bleed the brakes. After that, I'll do the final adjustments and set clearance between the pad and rotor. Haynes says .008 inches, does that sound correct? After that I'll start checking and adjusting the hand brake. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow and I can then tackle the electrical issue with the lights.
I use 0.004", I think the 0.008" is too loose. At least, for my taste.
This is a very impressive thread!
YOu have handled adversity like a champ and still fighting toward that goal...
I am impressed!!!
OK, first issue resolved. Brakes bled and hand brake adjusted to .004 inch clearance per DDs recommendation. Good to go!
Now on to electrical. Three questions.
1. pin length for the reverse light indicator switch, what should it be? The switch is working the pin isn't long enough. PO just stuck in a short 'roll' pin.
2. Parking lights. What color wire goes to the male connector in this picture? Is it the grey wire in the picture below?
3. Final question, low beam and high beam. Which switch triggers the high beam? Is it part of the main switch, i.e. you pull it out once it is low beam, you pull it out again and it is high beam. Or is it the switch next to it that lights up green when you pull it out?
The first position gives me headlamps but they are really low, the second position gives me very bright lamps. Just making sure that I am not a dumbass and that their was never an issue other than my old ass forgetting what made the high beams come on.
2. Parking Lamps
3. Headlights.... You pull the main switch once to get your running lights. You pull it all the way out to get low beams. You pull the turn signal stalk to get high beams.
I just checked a switch I have and the pin was 28mm. You'll probably have to fine tune yours to fit.
OK, reverse lights fixed! Cut a drill bit back end to 30mm, too long, cut it to 28mm, Doug's measurement, BINGO! So the three issues that failed the car were:
1. Right rear brake not holding with E-Brake engaged. FIXED
2. No high lights. FIXED (cause I'm a dumbass )
3. Reverse lights not coming on. FIXED
They didn't fail me for no parking lamps but I'll work on fixing that tomorrow. I plan on trying to get her inspected again on Monday, just in time for the snow! At least she's still got winter tires on her.
I measured the pin that was in the transmission for the reverse switch...18mm HALF of the length it is supposed to be!
So the last item is the parking lamps which should not be an issue since it is fairly evident they are just missing the connection from the wire to the lamp assembly. Heater motor doesn't seem to be working but that is a minor issue, I can drive with a big jacket on!
FINISHED! For now at least.
The PO had left the connectors for the parking lights intact however, he had taped them off. The wires were too short to fit through the boot to the assembly so I cut and spliced a longer length of wire on her and put on new connectors. Wella! We have parking lights!
They didn't fail me for them last time but if I get a different inspector, they might. I think I am safe though as I believe the only thing they will re-check is the three things they failed me on. High beams, Reverse lights and parking brake.
I did re-key the driver's side lock so she opens with the key, talk about tedious. I still have to do the passenger door but that is low priority. If she passes tomorrow I'll be a happy camper especially since there is supposed to be snow all this week. We'll see how things go tomorrow.
Christoph is supposed to email me when the other rebuild kit comes in; I have kits for the front as well but will wait till I get back stateside to rebuild those as I'll have ALL my tools and equipment once I get back. I'll run her like she is until I get the MG put back together. Then, depending on how long it takes me, I'll tear the teener all the way down to nothing. A lot depends on whether I am getting ready for my final move or not. I have a three year commitment at the next job, actually only one year but I plan on running it out until at least October 2016. That will put me at my 30 year mark for active duty retirement. I'll post on how things went tomorrow, wish me luck!
Houston...we have lift off!
She was covered in snow this morning but started up fitfully as was expected. Once warm it was off to Panzer Kaserne to get the inspection. Hit a major jam on the Autobahn.. Only problem is when you go slow...the windshield fogs up! Definitely need to fix the blower motor but I can ride with the windows down, just gotta keep them up enough so the snow doesn't get me!
When it was my turn I went out and warmed up the car while the inspector had a smoke break. He asked about he car year and we talked a bit about it then he took my paperwork and did his checks. I stood outside watching and holding my breath as the back wheels went on the spinner and he engaged the parking brake.
Up to the front of the inspection garage on the left there is a large dual analog gauge that measures braking force...Right side locked! Gauge displayed 150 on the left and 200! on the right! WOOHOO! That was my biggest concern and that went off without a hitch. I'll rebuild the left rear brake when the kit comes in but she's good for now.
The RPMs are still a bit high but I think it is based on the carb linkage. I think I need to adjust both sides a bit to elongate it when the throttle is realeased to fully close both butterflys. I think the linkage is not fully returning to proper idle position. I'll tackle that this weekend. In the meantime, I'm just gonna break her in and drive her around this week in the lovely snow here in Germany.
I swear ta god if I actually find Murphy and his gremlin little ass I am going to beat the holy hell out of him!
Got home, closed the door, turned the key to lock it and.....ya know that sound of a bolt dropping into the engine compartment? Shit.
The 10mm nut on the door handle securing it to the door came off and fell between the door and body. Well crap. OK, unlock it and go find it...OK, Unlock it and go find it...OK, UNFUCKING LOCK IT AND GO FIND IT!!! I can't unlock the door so, I can't open it. Calm down, walk to the house, grab some tools, wife comes home, she wants to yap...I am not really in my I wanna listen to her mode.
Go back out to the car and, work on keeping the door handle assembly stationary while I turn the key. After about minute I manage to get her unlocked. Get in and drive it to the house. I have to park on the street if I want to use the car.
Pull the assembly off and well, it wasn't just the nut.
OK, that sucks. No problem, drill out the hole all the way through, get an M5 bolt and nut, check the length, now re-assemble.
This works; it ain't pretty but it works.
Other than that, not a bad day.
Congrats on the inspection passing.
OK, after a week in the Alps learning to snowboard, did a header on the last day! No broken bones but a good sprained right wrist and very well bruised chest from the left clavicle up that hurts like hell! Now, I'm ready to tackle some final adjustments and rebuild the left rear caliper. Question, I checked the oil right before I left and it was pretty low. After a week of driving I was quite surprised how low the oil was. No leaks, any thoughts?
So, I took the time to work on adjusting the carburetor linkage this afternoon as I believe that this was part of the high idle problem. Bingo! No more high idle.
I adjusted the idle to the recommended 900 rpm then shut her off and used the PP template to find 27 Deg BTDC. I then enlisted the wife's help to check timing. She got her as close to 3200 RPM as possible and kept it as steady as she could and I adjusted the timing to 27 BTDC then locked down the dizzy. I read quite a few threads on the optimal timing for a carbed motor and also looked at the PP article. I think I am between 27 and 30 at 3200 with her running at about 6 BTDC at idle.
Took her out for a spin on the autobahn, much better! No more backfire at 60 or 80 mph and very smooth acceleration from zero to 60. I think I still need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as 1st is being a bit difficult but I can work that later.
I am having a bit of a challenge balancing the carbs though. I have a synch meter but just can't quite get them to synch up. I am betting I don't have both sides of the carb linkage equally set, I'll tackle that later and measure each linkage to make sure they are sitting at the same length between carb and linkage rod.
I picked up the left rear caliper rebuild kit this morning and had Christoph order me a set of rubber side seals for the targa top. They should be in tomorrow. I just have to focus now on cleaning the car up in preparation for shipment. I'll work that this week after I catch up to things at work. Need to do as much as I can this week as I fly to Africa again on Saturday and will be there for 2 weeks so my time is limited. I currently have the car scheduled to be dropped off for shipment on 20 March. I just have to clean every little speck of dirt I can find in the cab out. I'll tackle the left rear brake rebuild after I get back from my trip.
After two weeks in Africa I got back this past Saturday and it was relatively warm for one day then...BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!
I got a nice tan in Malawi, not so much back here in lovely Germany where it is currently 19 friggin degrees! In March!! At least the damn snow finally went away after dumping about an inch on us yesterday. I want to go back to Africa where it is warm!!!
OK, enough bitchin. I didn't get anything done this week other than pick up new targa top seals from Christoph yesterday, I've been neck deep in a final planning conference all week and the Frau has been stateside lining up housing and schools for our move. Looks like we'll be living in the Green Briar area of Chesapeake and moving into the new house sometime mid-June. In the meantime, I've been a single parent so its been a bit hectic.
Today I will start the process of tearing the car apart and cleaning every last bit of dirt I can find from the interior and the trunks. I'll then start on replacing the targa seals and tackle the carb balancing last. I'm hoping it will warm up when I tackle the carbs since she doesn't like the cold much.
Since they are draconian on the Agriculture inspection, i'm seriously thinking about pulling the carpeting out in its entirety. No carpet, no dirt! We'll see, I will pull the seats first then make the assessment. I'll post pics after I get done today. Now if any of you have some nice warm weather you'd like to share with Germany, I'm all for it!
Well now, I got most of what needed done on Saturday with the exception of trying to synch the carbs. I underestimated the amount of work I needed to do to clean out all the dirt and get the carb ready for shipment. Here are the before and after pictures.
As one can clearly see, a lot of work to be done! After working on it all day, I finally wound up with this.
I bought a cheap set of rubber mats to keep it from getting dirty at Toom this morning.
It's not a perfect fit but it will work.
I tackled the carb synch this morning and...failed miserably! Clearly there exists the other issues that Rich alluded too but, I don't have the time to fix it properly. For now, she runs. Well enough to get her on the boat and off the boat. I'll run her to the auto hobby shop tomorrow afternoon to finalize the cleaning then, with luck, I will drop it off on Wednesday for shipment to Norfolk.
Once I get to Norfolk, I'll tackle the carb issue but not until then. I'll post my success or failure after Wednesday and then this thread will go dormant for a couple of months until I can work on her again once I get stateside.
I did find a mess of wires that went absolutely nowhere once I pulled the carpet up. I think they were originally for the speakers and radio. I'm so looking forward to tearing this down to the bare metal and starting from scratch. Then I'll know exactly what goes where and why as opposed to the disaster that it currently is.
Well, it passed the ag inspection! I had to do some minor wipe downs to get at some dirt but other than that, she is sitting in the outbound lot waiting for a truck to take her to Bremerhaven. From there, she heads to Portsmouth, VA on a ship and will be in on or about 6 May 2013. I told the guy I won't be in Norfolk until June but, since it is due to my deployment to Africa, it is not a problem.
The right headlight did get some water in it from my washing at the self wash. Hopefully it dries out and works when it gets to VA. Otherwise, I'll be needing a new headlamp. For now, this thread is on hold until I get to VA and get settled. See y'all stateside soon!
Well, I'm now in Norfolk, Va. We got in on the 5th and I picked the car up on the 6th. The turn signals wouldn't work and the battery was deader than a door nail. So I jumped her at the distribution center and went straight to the nearest auto store, Pep Boys, and bought a new battery.
Made it back to the hotel and took the time today to see if I can sort out the problem with the lights. Well...COROSION! the entire inside of the turn signal socket and the bulb base were green. I cleaned it off best I could but it wasn't really enough so I will have to replace that part of the assembly but, I don't think anyone makes just that part anymore. I put in an an inquiry on a car being parted out on the forum to see if the turn signal assemblies are in good condition and still available.
Now the other problem is that the there is a short somewhere and the left light keeps popping up and down when the light knob is pushed in. Anyone have this issue before?
Then I tried to start the car, it is being difficult. No problem, I'll try again tomorrow. Basically, she didn't like the trip overseas on a boat. Guess I got my work cut out for me. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage until 20 June. Say la vie.
Welcome back! I'm sure you have alot of other things going on, but at least you've got some summer to sort things out and enjoy the car.
OK, so I went to Advanced Auto and grabbed a can of starter fluid to see if I could get her cranked over today. Nope
She turns but she just isn't catching. Unfortunately, I'm operating out of a hotel so don't have any tools or room to really trouble shoot things. The issue is that I won't have a car to get back and forth to work with this week so the wife will have to drop me off unless I can find someone that I can car pool in with. I'll work that angle today.
She started fine the day I picked her up, a bit rough, but started. She sat outside during a rather rough rain storm, any thoughts that water could have gotten in somewhere?
Not a big deal, I'll move her to the new house in the garage and work on her after I get my tools. Shit happens, i'm not stressing a deadline or inspection as I was in Germany. If my temp tags from Germany expire before I get her up and running that is fine, I'll register her when she is operational. Just another speed bump enroute to the final destination, annoying but not mission stopping.
OK, I got a chance to work on the car Monday then tackled it again yesterday. Long story short, I got a short somewhere in the wiring and I have no spark.
Tested the #1 plug first by pulling the plug and grounding it, no spark. I then used an inline spark tester with the plug back in the car, no light. Next used the inline tester to check the coil wire grounding it best I can, I got a light which indicates the coil is OK.
I also check the plug wire to make sure that I didn't have a break in the wire. I didn't have a specific wire tester so I did the standard ohms check with the multi-meter. Wire checked out OK.
Working backwards this would imply that the dizzy cap is bad or the rotor. Joy.
I also discovered, after I pulled the key, that the left rear tail light was on and would not shut off. When the light switch was pulled, only the right side lamp came up. Dang. Needless to say I now know why my battery got drained but now I have the joy of troubleshooting the electrical system WHICH I AM NOT VERY GOOD AT!!
Any advice from the collective before I head down this road??
Blinker left engaged becomes a parking light on forever.
See if that was it.
Check for 12vdc at the coil with the key in the run position...may be a fuse got knocked out or may be the ignition switch is broken from all the kind people that have touched your car.
be sure the center contact inside the cap is not worn down. it's spring loaded and when it's worn to it's limit it works sometimes, sometimes not. ask me how I know. RRC 2011
I'll do the checks this Sunday; I'm off to the hunt club to do some maintenance work on stands, etc. I'm quite excited that I get to hunt again!!
I should have the garage set up by the end of Sunday to put the the other car into the garage which will give me more room to work on the Porsche. Thanks for the input
The madness has taken hold...
Soooo, i've been doing a lot of research and was torn between trying to find a Porsche 6 Cyl or converting to a Subi motor. I looked around for motors, both Porsche and Subaru, and found three in the VA Beach area that I can pull from junked cars. I found 0, nada, null, kein motor, for the Porsche in a salvage yard. Yes, I know I can get them on Ebay and the like but they want an arm and a leg.
So, I believe I will go with the Subaru conversion. Now, to make sure I pull everything I need, I would like some feedback. It is my understanding that when I pull the motor, I must also pull the ECU and wiring harness to replace what I currently have. Is this a correct understanding of what is required?
SVX's are cheap. $400-2500 for a running car. There are always plenty around.
That depends on what you use. If you go Suby you can go OEM or AM ECU. Either way you will retain some of the OG wiring. I'm using the Suby engine harness (cut 'n spliced) and Suby ECU in combination with the OG wiring. If you have room I'd suggest buying an entire donor car that runs. You can shop for several Suby's @ http://www.copart.com/c2/copart_salvage_auto_auctions_car_finder.html. Find one with side or rear end damage. Avoid the head ons.
Yes SVXs are cheap, yet remember they are the only ones to use the EG33 motor, so after market support is not there as it is for the -4s. that being said, they are a sweet motor to have backed by a WRX 5MT. SVXs only came in autos over here. If your lucky you can find one that a person has swapped a 5MT into out of WRX already.
Get engine, all peripherals, harness, engine to ECU harness, ECU. If its a WRX grab the 5MT out of it also. Get the CVs and axles, anything else you think you might need. If you can get a whole clip that is always nice. I guess if you going 2.5 you can also grab the tranny, depending on the model and year they can have a very low final drive, and a short 5th gear.
My self, I looked in Craigslist, got a SVX, picked up a 5MT out of KY, and then grabbed another EG33 out of another yard. All told I have a 2K in this setup with a running SVX, that is currently my daily. Only issue is I really like the SVX, it is a fine driver. Even at the 1000 price point, it is still plenty fun every day. I am looking at finding another 5MT to put in the SVX.
OK, so the VA Beach pick and pull yard has two Subaru's.
1997 Legacy wagon with a 2.5L H4 motor
1992 Legacy sedan with a 2.2L H4 motor
Cost for motor and all accessories roughly $200-250.
I'm leaning towards the 2.5L motor, thoughts from the collective?
The 2.5s evidently love to blow head gaskets... And a huge PITA if/when they do.
OK, while I'm having these maddening thoughts...could I pull the entire power train, motor and tranny, from the legacy and convert the tranny to RWD?
I have been perusing many of the threads that talk about the conversion from an AWD to RWD tranny vice an adapter kit for the subi to 901 requirement. Since I have a tail shifter, I would think that the Subi conversion would shift better than my current set up.
Thoughts? Is this a bridge too far?
I had a '96 2.5L Legacy and it blew the head gasket and warped the head. Put in a used engine and it too had a blown head gasket. A third engine was fine. I sold the car immediately afterwards.
Apparently the head gasket issue was fixed in the '98 or '99 model year.
OK, so a guy I teach with is a fellow gearhead however, he is into Buicks. He gave me a site to do searches for parts on and I found a complete running 1.8 with FI motor for 300. I also found a side shift tranny however, it is just the trans and none of the other components. SOOOOO, how easy is it to get the rest of the components to convert my tailshifter to the side shift setup and is $500 a reasonable price for the tranny? I was thinking of $300 because he doesn't have any of the other components. Thoughts?
You need a shifter
Engine mount brackets for motor
Engine mount bar
Special conversion bushing for firewall
All new other bushings, buy the kit and toss the firewall bushing
Rear shifter coupler
Rear shift console plastic cover and metal clamp
So the guy I am buying the gearbox from also has a 2.4 six cyl that has been sitting for 2 years. He said he has a set of Nicksil 2.7 cyl and pistons to go with the motor and wants $200 for it. He also said that the reason it is sitting is that it has a spun bearing.
Soooo, I know what problems a spun bearing will introduce with a standard iron block motor, I assume the same problems would manifest themselves with the 6cyl 2.4 motors? Should I run and hide from this deal or is it worth a look?
I like the thought of converting to a 6 but not if it is gonna cost me an arm and a leg, I would like some opinions from the more knowledgeable out there as I am merely a shade tree mechanic!
No such thing as a $200 2.4L six. It'll be $10K+ by the time you get done with the motor...
Then again, that's true of most 911 motors.
A spun bearing can be fixed, all it takes is time and money. I know that Walt at Competition Engineering used to machine the mag cases so they could be re-used. He would take a shallow pass over the whole sealing surface between the case halves on a mill. Then he'd clamp the two halves together and re-bore the crank and intermediate shaft bores.
It's possible that there is too much damage inside to repair for any sane amount of $$, but I'm thinking it's worth the risk.
Frankly, $200 sounds on the cheap side for a core 911 motor. Especially if he throws in the new P&Cs. Does he know what the thing "should" be worth? (If he does, then why is it so cheap?)
Well, tranny is in NC. My buddy picked it up and talked to the guy. Turns out he does a lot of racing with foreign cars. The 2.4 has been sitting in a shop for the last two years and he just wants to get rid of it. If he can get the heads, we have a deal.
Surprisingly, the wife didn't object when I mentioned getting the motor. I think she has resigned herself to the fact that I'm just gonna do it anyway so she might as well stop fighting it!
I'll work on the car this weekend and sort out the electrical issues so I can get it up and running. Then I can drive it at least while I work on acquiring the rest of the side shift gearbox hardware and start prepping for the six conversion. I need to do some bodywork first though. At least I'll be a well trained welder when I start, I start TIG lessons in January. I may talk to the welding shop that straightened out my bed frame, I think I can talk him into letting me be a pseudo apprentice and practice MIG in the interim.
Also talked to 'Phil,' the guy with the rest of the parts. He said, 'you ever watch that show American pickers?' I said yeah, I've seen it. He said, 'I'm like the guy that those guys go and visit. I got a lot of shit.' Too include 3 Harleys and a Triumph that, from the sounds of it, may be antiques. This could be a very beneficial relationship. I'll link up with him on Sunday and see what he's got.
Well, the parts hunt for the rest of the items to convert the teener to a side shift trans is moving along splendidly. I went by to see Phil this afternoon and came away with the engine mounting bar with all hardware, transmission mounts, shift linkage (both parts) and two front signal light buckets for $255. My old buckets have the dang plastic duct taped on cause they cracked.
He didn't have the shifter assembly so I am still on the hunt for that. He had a complete FI system for a 1.7 sans injectors but I will pick that up at a later time. All in all a good day. I had hoped to work on the teener yesterday however, the Merc has some fuel issues so I need to sort that out before I can start on the Porsche.
I think I recall seeing a couple of 73 and older teeners being parted out on CL, I may see if they have the shifter assembly. Once I have that then I'll be ready to start the prep to transfer it over.
Don't forget the converter bushing in the firewall. Has the OD for the early car, the ID for the later shift rod.
Picked up the transmission from my brother in law, looks to be in good condition from the outside. I'll start tearing it down this week to see what the inside looks like. It was a good weekend, I also got my first deer after 8 years of not getting to hunt. Dressed out at about 100 lbs.
Looking forward to playing with her stack....
Now, where did I put Dr. Evil's DVD....
Chris Foley at tangerine racing manufactures a most excellent firewall bushing.
Don't be cheap in this spot, it's the key to good shifting.
The bushing that is sold as a conversion bushing is very loose fitting and very large inner dimension....and it sucks to put in place.
So I did some thread searching and found a thread posted by Chad Newton this past September asking what all was needed for the side shift conversion. Below is what was posted with my annotations on wheather I have the item or not.
Shifter - coming
shaft from shifter to firewall - Yes
Bent rod from firewall to tranny - Yes
Engine mount bar - Yes
Engine mounts (engine to bar) - Yes
Engine mounts (bar to body) - Yes
Linkage cover at firewall - Yes, same for tail and sideshift I assume
Linkage cover at tranny - Looking
Boots for linkage (both ends) - have one but needs replacement
two cone screws - Need to check
New firewall bushing - Will order from Tangerine
New bushing at tranny end - will order
New Ball for tranny end - Not sure on this
So, PP has an aftermarket linkage cover at the tranny, AA has linkage boots, any other options for the cover and boots out there? I will be ordering the gasket set for the tranny from PP here shortly, checked with the local Porsche dealer, they can get the gaskets BUT, they have to come from Germany and it will take a few weeks... Guess I won't be using these guys at all.
Also saw a note that I will need to change one of the heat exchanger units to an older model? Can someone please clarify?
The Tangerine spherical bushing is really nice.
FWIW, you can also sleeve the side shift rod with a piece of tubing that matches the OD of the stock tailshift rod (or just cut a section from the TS shift rod since you are not using it anymore) and use the regular tailshift bushing at the firewall instead of the conversion bushing.
you need to change one of the heat shields that attaches to the engine and heat exchanger on the drivers side to clear the shifter rod.
It comes from a 72 or later car....
I may have missed one thing.
Engine mount brackets (bolt to engine, underneath fan shroud)
Engine rubber mounts, check (should be new)
engine mounts, bar to body...check.
So, make sure you have the small special brackets that get bolted to the motor...
Thanks Dave and Rich for the input. I have all the brackets that go from the bar to the motor. I actually pulled the bar off of a 1.8 so grabbed the 'little bits' that went with it.
I couldn't tell what the difference was on the firewall cover though. So, does anyone have a picture of the two covers next to each other for comparison and the piece of the exchanger shield that is different?
The warm air guides:
Tail-shift version, the "bump" goes underneath the shift rod:
Side-shift version, the "bump" goes up and over the shift rod:
Shift coupler boot:
Side-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is a thicker rectangle, not as thin and squished as the early version:
Here is where the cover hooks onto the firewall:
Tail-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is very oblong:
And here is where the TS version hooks to the chassis:
Old is oval, new is round
I just hang it on there to protect the coupler from crud.
No solutions I have seen.
An article was written in Up-Fixin der Porsche, volume 9 page 44 on
side-shifter conversion and covered the early to late boot problem.
Basically, you grind some of the lip off around where the shift rod
sticks out from the firewall and fabricate a plate to fit the new boot.
Space the plate away from the firewall with a couple washers.
Steve - sent you pm. Mark
Alles klar! My confusion came in as I was clearly NOT looking at the correct picture comparison. I think I was having a brain fart . So, as I smack myself around a bit and look at the pictures, the little stubby ball that jets out to the left will go away and I will have to figure out a method to hold the new cover in place. Already percolating ideas. I'm acually excited about this project as it will be a lot of fun to dive into this! Yeah, some people would say I ain't right in the head. Then again, is anyone who buys this car and on this forum completely right in the head?
OK, so I did some troubleshooting on the car today. First issue dead battery and it won't hold a charge. So, I took it back to Pep Boys and they exchanged it. Install, try to crank, nothing. Check spark, none, check spark at coil, none.
Dizzy and rotor are a bit worn but the plug wires are new. So, off to O'Reilly's to get a new coil, cap and rotor. Replace, try to start...nothing.
She is getting fuel so that is not the issue, anyone got an thoughts? I haven't re-checked for spark, I'll do that in the morning; anything else I need to be looking at other than making sure all my ground connections are solid?
Try to crank, nothing. Says significant electrical connection problem to me. Time to re-check the connections at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and very especially the grounds.
WOOHOO! I have spark! And, she almost started...
So I took the time to find and check all the ground connections. I had to replace the bolt for the transmission ground strap as the bolt was stripped and the connection loose. Cleaned up the starter connections as well. Attach my in-line spark tester...no spark, dang.
OK, trace the wires to the coil and dizzy, check continuity, they are good, clean up the connections, try again...no spark.
Check relay board, hmm let's take it off and thoroughly clean it! Put it back on, secure all connections, crank... SPARK!! Next, phase, disconnect tester and reconnect the plug wire and lets see if I can get her to start up. She almost started but not quite. After a few cranks it stopped cranking and all I got was a click. Soooo, should I replace the power supply relay? Would this be a potential problem? The two relay's I have on the board, are the power supply and the fuel pump. The other two slots are empty. As I have stated before, I suck at electrical troubleshooting so could use some suggestions. As it is, I will need to order a relay for the heater blower as it isn't there. Probably why the blower didn't work to begin with!
Ya know...sometimes I wonder about our cars. In my effort to figure out why the stupid left side rear light was staying on I went in search of a diagram for the wire hookups. Not the wiring diagram, I got that but the actual connections to the light.
As I searched I came across a preview that said something to the effect of, 'turn signal left on drain's battery after ignition key is removed...' Wait, what??? Oh shit. Go back out to the car, open the door...flip the turn signal up...well, I feel like a dumbass!
Needless to say, that issue is resolved. Of course, in the process of trying to figure it out, both taillight assemblies broke on me as I pulled them out. So I'm looking for a new set of tail light assemblies with lenses now.
I also took the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the power relay, yup, need new relays. Gonna order those. She is still not quite starting yet, but at least I am closer. I'll try to tackle it this week to see if I can get her to start. The plugs are new so I know that isn't the problem.
Well, we had guest speakers all day yesterday for my students so I left early and dropped off the Volvo at the dealer, it is creaking, and then went home and did some work on the Teener.
I finally broke down and picked up a remote starter, compresson tester and new timing light with advance. Yeah, I know, I should have already had these things.
I decided to pull the dizzy and start from scratch so as to line everything up properly. So, first order of business, pull the #1 plug and screw in the compression tester. Next, hook up the remote starter...not an easy damn task with the new starter! Finally, pull the dizzy.
Time to find TDC, using the remote starter and the compression tester made it a hell of a lot easier! Had I gotten these items before it probably would have saved me a lot of headaches early on while I was in Germany.
I re-marked TDC on the fan with white, it was already marked in red but much harder to see. Before I did this though, I crawled under the car to feel for the notch in the flywheel that should correspond to TDC on the fan. Yup, got it and the notch where the dizzy goes is also pointing in the correct direction. Looking good so far.
Now, time to re-install the dizzy, line up the rotor with the mark on the housing, check to make sure it lines up with a plug...fuck with it for the next 30 minutes trying to get it in and lined up properly! I finally got it in and lined up properly after a bit though. Unfortunately, at this point I needed to head off to my welding class so didn't get much further.
Prior to putting the dizzy cap back on, I wrapped new white electrical tape around each tower so I can properly mark the firing order. Now, after some checking, firing order rotating clockwise is 1,4,3,2; clockwise direction is with me standing behind the car. Unless anyone says differently this is how I will proceed.
I will mark the cap accordingly but before I hook the wires up, I plan on running compression tests on each cylinder first. Then I'll hook up the wires and see if we can get her to crank. I'm hoping that re-setting everything to baseline will do the trick, if she starts then I'll work on re-timing the motor and then balance the carbs. Wish me luck, i'm gonna need it!
So, put the car up to adjust valve's based on the Cap'ns methodology. Pull the cover for #3 and 4...SHIT. We got oil coming out big time! Correct me if I'm wrong but, it shouldn't do this right? I recall having the covers off before to adjust valves and not have friggin oil spewing out the #4 pushtube. Anyone ever experience this?
Not spewing, but there can be some leaking. If the tail of the car is up, there is something odd for the #4 cylinder's pushrod tube to be spewing, because #1 and #3 would both be lower than #4.
Do you have power to the coil?
Are your points opening and closing?
Do they provide a ground to the coil and then disconnect it?
Back to basics...
Could also be a fried Pertronix, then. Those seem to be a wee bit fragile. Especially if the power is left on without the engine running.
OK, so, got home and checked the coil before I ran any continuity tests. I got spark from the coil. I am pretty sure that the electronic ignitor is the issue. Pulled the cap and took a look, hmm, doesn't look like a Petronix to me. Pull it, nope, ain't a Petronix and I have NO CLUE who the hell makes it.
I'll pick up a Petronix kit this week and see how she does, hopefully this resolves the issue.
Try a set of points so you can at least keep troubleshooting.
How's this one?
Well, my wife gave me whatever she had so I feel like hell. So what do I do? Take drugs and work on the teener of course! Probably not one of my better ideas as I lost the dang distributor drive spring in the motor while I was lining up the gear. Sometimes you're the hammer and sometimes, you're the nail. I get to be the nail today.
Needless to say, I'm gonna have to now drop the motor to see if I can find the dang spring unless someone has any better ideas. I guess I could drain the oil and pull the pan and see if it made it's way all the way through. Anyone got any suggestions?
On the flipside, I did finish the distributor re-furbishment. She looks a lot better than when I started.
I think I'll watch a movie for a bit and wait for the frau to get home.
Well, after nearly two weeks I am finally almost normal with the exception of a lingering cough that I am trying to get over. Haven't gotten much done with the teener other than put the back up on jacks to take some measurements. I read through Andys LS1 Retrospective build thread and saw the jack adapter he made to lower and raise the motor. Soooo, I am going to now build one of those. I have a source of square tubing that I can get what I need at BMG so now all I have to do is get an Oxyacetylene setup since that is what I have been doing in class for the last 3 months.
I will take TIG next semester as well as finally start down the automotive program path. Since my wife is concerned about 'safety' she let me spend a bit more on a helmet for the next course.
Its a Miller Digital Performance Series helmet so will do the trick and allow me a lot of flexibility.
I've got to drop the motor and trans so I have them out before February's clinic in Richmond with Mike so may get it all done over the holiday season. I'm going to add an Oxyactlene cutting/heating & welding rig to my Christmas list for the wife to get me. I have already done up the plans for the motor jack adapter, I just need the rig to weld it all together. Looking at using 1 1/2 inch square tube 1/8 thick for the adapter. This will be my first project with the welding rig. Second and third will be a gun vise to sight in my rifles and an engine stand. I plan on having the motor tuned and running BEFORE I put it back in the car this time!
I'll also be converting over to the side shift so will do some modifications before I put the motor in however, I will use a MIG for that one. My buddy has a MIG that should work for what I want to do. Guess I'll have to roll the car out of the garage so I have room to work on the motor once it is out. I have a cover but it sucks, I think I'll put a good tarp over the cover to keep it out of the elements. Here we go again! I think this is the 5th or 6th time I have had the motor out of the car. With any luck, the spring will flush to the sump and come out there so I don't have to pull the whole motor apart...yeah, right I have yet to be that lucky with this car!
for storing outdoors, go to the auto parts store and buy a DRI-Z-AIR and place the whole thing in a bucket on the floor of the car. check and pour off the water every 1 or 2 weeks. basically moisture absorbing crystals in their own little catch basin device. use the bucket as you'll likely forget to empty the basin and enough water will collect and over fill. as stated in the instructions the 'water' will be "corrosive" so the bucket is pretty important.
actually, i found the ones i have at my local hardware store when they were on sale. over time the crystals dissolve and you have to add new. i have one of the units in my truck that's stored under a tarp.
I finally got around to dropping the motor and tranny. I wanted to build a lift adapter but just ran out of time so I improvised and used my motorcycle lift on one end and my jack on the other to achieve the same thing without having to 'walk' the car up on the left and right. It worked.
As one can see the tranny is pretty tore up, I think they left the car on the top of the ship when they shipped it from Germany. Case in point, all 6 *&^%^$##%^& bolts snapped off when I went to remove the muffler!!! They were rusted solid! If I can't extract them then I guess I'll be getting a new muffler.
I drained the oil and, after I help my buddy with his transmission tomorrow, we have to replace the 2 and 4 band on his Chevy tranny, I'll start to tear into the motor. I figure She needs to be cleaned up so I'll just tear it all the way down and rebuild her...again. Besides, I'll need to do quite a bit of work on the body to get it ready for the conversion to a side shifter. Might as well start now. Maybe I'll eventually take it up to Scotty B's to have him shoot it. We'll see.
I still intend to build an engine test stand that I can throw the Teener motor, MG motor and big ole V8 Merc motor on. I got my oxy welding kit in, just need to get some cylinders with fuel and material and off I go!
In the meantime, I will clean up this tranny along with the newly acquired side shifter in prep for Mike's clinic in Feb. Should be a good time.
Soo, I was thinking, 'a dangerous pastime I know...' Everytime I would pull the valve cover retaining bars off to check valve timing they would take paint off of the valve covers.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep this from happening? Slather in petroleum jelly before I pull off and push back on?
Well, after a full weekend at Dr. Evil's transmission clinic, the side shift gearbox is ready to go. I kept the bell housing portion of the donor trans and will be cutting that off and setting it up to be a future mounting bracket for the engine stand and engine test stand.
Donor innards on the left
Dr. Evil mentoring his hapless victims
She is ready to go back in
WOOHOO! It is back together
Still need to finish tearing down the motor to fish out the dizzy spring and, as luck would have it, I may be getting lucky with a 2.0 core set of heads from Mike (Mblizzard) who I met at the clinic. Hopefully they are workable so I can do a complete transfer to a 2.0 motor. Speaking of conversions...the current set up has Delorto IDF 40 single barrel carbs, would it be better for power and a smoother running motor to transfer to Webers? Thoughts on this?
Sooooooooo....my fellow instructor, colleague and gearhead is replacing his Accel Gen 6 EFI with a Gen 7 and will sell me the Gen 6 with harness for probably a $100 or so. I have NO experience with FI systems other than the one in my 78 Merc which is a mechanical CIS.
So, the question is, who has experience with this set up, what type of fuel injectors would work with this setup and what else is needed to convert it all over to an EFI?
My understanding, which is usually wrong, is that the stock FIs won't work well with the newer EFI systems. This being said, I am under the assumption that I would have to find an aftermarket setup that would work with a programmable EFI system to include intake manifold and all associated sensors.
Can anyone point me to a good discussion on converting over to an aftermarket EFI system? I have a feeling I will have to set up what I have in the current carb configuration and slowly build the components to transfer it over to EFI.
Had some time today to tear down the driver's side bank. Initial look is not good. So, what would cause the 'shiny' sections of the pushrods? Rod tube retainer? If so, what is the fix or is this even an issue? Looks to me like it might eventually wear through the rod tubes?
Also looks like the cylinder head did not seal properly based on black spray pattern on the cylinder head.
Piston tops are pretty black as well.
I guess I'll just clean it all up again. Luckily I have a lead on a set of 2.0 heads from MBlizzard so I may be converting to those. I'll take my time and make sure I get things right this time as I obviously didn't on the last rebuild.
Still looking for anyone who has used the Accel Gen 6 EFI for some thoughts on its compatibility and useability in our cars. I'll tear down the passenger side bank tomorrow if I get the chance.
Shiny spots are normal. it's from the retainer rubbing the rods. Make certain they re all straighrt. Easiest way is by rolling them over a true surface. If you need the heads machined call me. the Machinist across the lot used to own an import repair shop and knows these things inside and out
The shiny spots are not normal. They're from not getting the retaining wire for the tubes seated on the shoulders of the tubes. If the lower part of the bent wire sticks down into the tube, the pushrod wears on it and you get that shiny area.
The fix is to pull the wire back outward. Pull far enough and the bent corners will "click" into place against the shoulder of the pushrod.
OK, after my TIG welding class (I love this class!) and completing the 'Honey Do' list I got to continue the tear down. Seems as if the passenger side cylinder bank and heads also didn't seal. I used the gasket for both sides, don't think I'll do that with the 2.0 heads.
Also noticed that the underside of the rocker arms looked like they were worn away by rubbing on the valve spring assembly? Didn't see any wear on the valve spring assembly though so it may have already be there. It was just the ones to the #4 cylinder.
Got all the bolts off and have her up on the bench, I will separate the halves tomorrow and find the errand dizzy spring then start cleaning things up.
Nice thing about these motors is I have no problem manhandling them up onto the bench, sure as hell couldn't do that with my cast iron MG motor or the big ole V8 in the Merc!
At least I am not in a rush like I was in Germany, I'll take my time and make sure it is together right, hopefully Mike doesn't find any issues with the 2.0 heads he's selling me.
I will need to resolve the SRS light issue with the son's car as well as fix the window regulator, I think I'll do that after I finish tearing down the motor.
Well, the 2.0 heads fell through. After a good inspection by Mike (MBlizzard) he sent me a note saying they were crap so didn't get them for me. Bummer. On the flip side, i'm glad he made the call before I wasted the money on them.
So, we're back to square one with the motor and a new plan. Rebuild the existing motor with the fly cut heads and do the Megasquirt conversion with the current set up. Mike is looking for a set of used intakes and a plenum for the 1.7 motor while I work on getting things cleaned up.
The motor is completely apart and I started to clean things up but then got side tracked with work on the Mercedes, son's JEEP and my new GEO Tracker. I'm rebuilding the steering gear on the Merc and had to replace the bearings on the Tracker to which I found that the locking hubs were shit so now have those on order. I will pull the son's transfer case out tomorrow morning and then check lengths for both input shafts to figure out whether or not I need to do a swap. Hopefully I don't.
Once I get the boy's Jeep squared away and the Merc done I can re-engag the Teener. I'm waiting on an adjustable pin spanner wrench so I can pull the bearing cap on the steering worm gear assembly. It normally comes right off but someone torqued the damn thing in!
I've also started to read up on the Megasquirt conversion, I want to see if I can set up a sequential fire system vice a batch fire system. If anything, the experience I will get from doing this will pay dividends in understanding FI systems and how they are set up. And yes, I'm also a glutton for punishment. Thus...the saga continues...
Did you lap the area to be sure your jugs were mating to the head properly?
Hey Stephen. I was checking out your pistons. I am not 100%, but those look like they are from a bus? They seem pretty deeply dished.
After reading this saga, I don't know if the Army needs to issue you a special medal or if you need to be committed. Wow, your perseverance is simply amazing!
I bet you can find someone doing a 6 conversion willing to sell a good running 2.0 with stock FI for $1-1.5K. That's the direction I would go. Have money ready and use freightquote.com to ship xcountry if needed. Should be around $250 to ship. JMO and good luck. mark
Or skip ebay and place a WTB for stock FI on World and spend around $500 inc ecu.
WOOHOO! Got the new FI system from KC, AKA mrfourteen. Needs some cleaning and minor reconditioning but she is in good shape. Now, when you get a call from your son and he say's, 'you got a big box in the mail' and you say, 'it's my FI system for the Porsche.' The follow up should be, 'OK, where do you want me to put it?'
His response, 'do you want me to open the box and put it on the freezer?' Think in terms of large low deep freezer, not the upright type. Sounds reasonable right? At least I thought so. Now, most people would assume that this means he is going to open the box, peer inside and then put the box on the freezer. NOPE! Not my son.
I got home to a complete FI system strung out and piled up all over the damn freezer! It didn't help that I was tired as I was on the podium teaching all day! Long story short, I made his ass get back out into the garage and re-box everything back up again. Note to self, define the intent before agreeing to the task!
Soooo...not much has been done with the car, she has sat languishing in the driveway under a car cover and waterproof tarp. So many other things have interfered with me getting anything done, it has been a bit maddening!
Monday however, I took the heads, cylinders and pistons to a local machine shop called Magnum Machine shop to get an evaluation and estimate on the heads. They called me yesterday and the owner said the valve guides needed replacement. I checked online today and found them on PP as well as Partsgeek. I called him back and he is going to do some measuring to determine whether or not we need to get oversize valve guides or standard ones.
I should know later today and will order the guides so he can start the work on the heads. He will also check the fit of the cylinder to the head and determine if he has to do any machining. I am estimating about $500 worth of work. Maybe i'll get lucky and it will be cheaper...yeah....right.
I guess I'll continue cleaning everything else up and prepping it for the rebuild. Anyone paint their case? If so, how did it hold up and what type of paint did you use? I am assuming a self-etching primer is needed along with a high temp paint. Any recommendations on this would be appreciated.
Don't just use any "self etching primer" you find. Make sure it's rated for high heat. VHT makes a flame-proof primer for this specific purpose.
Like painting anything, prep work is going to determine how long it lasts. Make sure you de-grease properly...and then do it again....before you prime.
OK, need some valve guide help.
As a reminder, my motor started life as a 1.7L. The heads were fly cut to fit 2.0 jugs and, as I discovered, the valves were changed to 2.0 valves with a 36mm Ex and 42mm In valve.
The guy at Magnum did some measuring and came up with 13.13mm Exhaust ID valve guide measurement and a 12.12mm Intake ID valve guide measurement. Now, I know nothing when it comes to valve guide replacement but it is my understanding that I will need to replace the old guides with oversize guides. SOOOOOO...where the heck do I get them and what will work? Doesn't look like PP has anything that will work. The only one I could find there was 12.09mm for the intake.
Any help would be appreciated!
European Motorwerks in CA.
Thanks Rich! Found them, I will get them on order later today.
OK, so, I stopped by the machine shop and got smart on the valve guides and, thanks to Rich Towle, got new ones on order. Now we wait for them to come in so we can get the heads finished up and the cylinder's honed and cleaned up.
In the meantime, I need to run by autozone, advance or O'Reilly's to find the VHT brand primer that was mentioned. I talked to the people at the Sherwin Williams store and they don't get VHT in much. They recommended the auto stores so, I'm gonna go hit them up.
Now that the bike is back together I can focus on the teener and try to get her back together. Since it will probably be a bit before I can re-assemble her I may tackle the brakes and finish rehabbing those suckers. Might as well, they need to get done anyway.
Piston rings! OK, I have the 94mm pistons, don't need any oversize rings just a standard set. PP has a single set for $22, Rock auto has two sets, one for $8 and the other for $15 but, I can't figure out which set is for a 94mm as Goetze has them for 80mm as well. Finally, I found a set of 4 for $29 from AA performance products. Anyone have any recommendations and the dang Goetze part number for the 94mm rings? PP doesn't show you the manufacturer part number.
Never mind! Didn't have a choice as PP were the only ones I could find who had them in stock!
You can buy Hastings rings from:
Type 4 store - Way over priced, and they actually have a $50 minimum order if you can believe it..... Sorry but that is pathetic.
European Motor Works - Great guys, much more available than is listed on website.
Perfect Engine.com - Best price ( 1/2 cost of others)
I tried unsuccessfully to get the Hastings, several other brands available, but I prefer Hastings. US made, great quality control.
Due to being a ham fisted maroon, I had to order a second set of the Hastings #3402. I see you needed 94mm, I have 96mm, but if anyone needs, I have some rings left over....
Hope you don't find this out the hard way but, the original pistons had metric sized ring grooves and some aftermarket pistons have SAE sized grooves. This is regardless of the piston diameter that is always metric.
Got the Goetze rings so we should be good to go. If I have to replace them again, I hope not anytime soon, I'll look at the other sites you mentioned Steve.
Soo, it's been a long while since posting anything. I am currently two weeks out from my move to TN. I put the MG and Teener into a storage unit yesterday and today I am working to make the movers mad by loading a tuff box with Porsche parts!
Had to take a break as a major lightning and thunderstorm came through and I didn't want to be in the garage with the door open when it hit. I'm back at it but needed to check a couple of things first.
I think the plan at this time is to focus on the MG when I get settled, then, tear the Teener completely down and do a ground up resto on her. The MG just needs some minor motor work, mostly clean up and some head work, then assembly. The Teener needs a lot more so I will put her on hold until I can concentrate on getting her done right the first time.
Now, I just need to find a job and a place to settle... Amazon is not dead yet and I go into the second round of interviews shortly and Oracle is courting me as well. I'm also trying to find something in the Knoxville area so we will see what happens. Good thing I got a retirement paycheck from Uncle Sam. It ain't much but it will work for now.
I'mmmm baaaaaaack! Well kinda. We got to lovely Knoxville, TN shortly after I retired from the Army and I got roped into helping Herr Blizzard with Okteenerfest 2015. I had a lot of fun though.
So after searching for a job and doing a short stint with Academy Sports out of pure boredom we decided that this is where we are going to put down roots. So far the new year has started with a bang.
We bought a house that we close on in February and, I found a real job managing a couple of projects in the Oak Ridge, TN area. Now I am in the midst of getting ready for our next and FINAL move to a house that I intend to stay in until I die! No more will I pick up and move after a couple of years as I left that life behind when I took off the uniform. I guess I better update my signature. I'm also looking at four post lifts to install in my rather large garage so I can stack and work on cars.
I have conscripted Herr Blizzard into coming with me to VA to pick up the Teener and my MG and we shall bring it back to Knoxville where it is then a mad rush to get it up and running before Okteenerfest 2016. This being said, if anyone finds themselves in the Knoxville, TN area please look me up and we'll have a beer together. Or wine, or scotch, whatever it takes to get you to help work on my car...
I'll start updating this thread more once I get the Teener back and start putting her back together. BANZAI!!
Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.
OK, let's try again, my computer just up and restarted on me so I lost what I had typed earlier.
Anyway, I've been a bit busy with the new job and purchase of a new house. We closed on the house about 2 1/2 weeks ago and have been trying to get organized with a ton of deliveries. Furniture, appliances, household goods that were in storage, etc.
It hasn't helped that the two projects that I manage were complete basket cases when I took them over because the previous Project Manager was a useless dirtbag! Makes it hard to organize a house when you have to spend all your time cleaning up work issues.
Nevertheless, it is slowly coming around but the garage is still a bit of a mess.
Look! My tool chest! But, I can't get to it!
Thar be 914 parts in that there mess!
This weekend the goal is to tear out the closets you see in the picture so I can make space for the 4 post lift. Once I get that done I can organize tools and equipment then go and get the Teener and MG from VA.
Once that is done, time to get the Teener running for Okteenerfest! Or at least that is the goal. That may be hard to do as I just got a note that I'm being offered a Program Manager position based in Florida. If that comes through, I'll be doing a lot of traveling and won't have near as much freedom as I do now. Add to this that I will probably find myself moving to the St. Petersburg area in about a year...
So much for our 'forever home.' Oh well, we'll see what happens, I'll just have to find a new house with lots of room for the cars and bikes again if we wind up moving. Rest assured, I'll be pinging our Florida members if things go that direction.
I am supposed to remember this from January?
I cant remember what I did last week....
Might want to hold off on remodeling....just saying.
Also, that wall might be structural, so proceed accordingly.
Soooo...I got a lot of things moved around last night and finished moving things out of the way to start the demo of the garage closet this morning.
Here is where we started, close to 3 1/2 feet were taken up by the closet as far as space going to the back wall. It was about 20 feet to the point that we took out the wall right next to the water heating unit.
My daughter, Rianna, made sure I woke her up around 0730 so she could help. Mike, MBlizzard, showed up around 0745 and you can see the destruction taking place.
It took us about 4 hours to tear everything out and clean up. The garage looks much larger now!
We also found some issues that I will have to deal with, termite trail up one 2x4 stud that I need to check to see if it needs replacement.
And what looks to be mold in the ceiling insulation.
I'll need to get into the attic and investigate. Needless to say, I can't do much more until I remedy these issues. I'll probably pull the rest of the drywall down tomorrow to check on the stud and make sure there are no other termite trails. I called it quits for today as I'm beat.
Getting closer to being able to get the Teener and MG so I can get back to work on them!
Well...The cars are back!! Headed to VA yesterday and met my buddy Leo at the storage unit. It took us about an hour and a half to load the MG and Teener. The Teener was easy, it went on the auto transport; the MG however was an entirely different story!
I didn't have the steering unit connected on the MG and neither wheels were connected to the steering rack so the first attempt to bring her up had the front wheels turning the wrong way. OK, lets try bringing her up from the back. NOPE! She would have bottomed out. Damn, now what?
Then Leo had a brilliant idea, lets connect the wheels with a ratchet strap! So we ran the straps to the connecting ends of the wheel tie rod arms, tighten just enough so that one wheel causes the other to turn and...VOILA!! Wheels stay straight and we can get her up into the truck!
We had a 5000 lb ratchet strap we initially used as a come a long but once we got it up on the ramps we both just got behind her and pushed her up the rest of the way. Good thing its just a chassis on wheels!
I got back this afternoon and got the Teener off the auto transport and then moved and unhooked the transport. MBBlizzard will be coming to help me unload the MG tomorrow then we start work on the Teener Motor. I'll need a new clutch cable and speedometer cable though. They came loose and 450 miles of dragging on the road kinda hosed them. Now I gotta go and order me the lift!
I start at General Dynamics on the 11th of April so I need to get as much work done now before I start as I will be doing a lot of traveling. I'm thinking it won't be until May now until I get the lift ordered, delivered and installed.
Let the madness begin again!!!!
GD, good place to land.
OK, so Mike came over this morning and we pulled the MG off. I had things pretty much set up and was installing the tie rod ends when he arrived. We hooked up a big ass ratchet strap to the front to control the car coming down then he and I slowly backed it off the trailer and down the ramps. When we got within 6 inches or so of the ratchet strap having tension we chocked each rear wheel and one of us would go up and loosen the strap some more. She came down a lot easier than she went up!
So here is what a truck with two cars loaded up looks like.
Here is what is left of the clutch and speedo cables that drug on the ground. Good thing Mike has a couple of spares for me!
And now the garage is full! I will have the four post ordered next month and hopefully installed before the end of May. I'll start putting the Teener motor together this week.
It's kinda hard to see but on the right fender their is a perfect line of rust and paint bubbling. Methinks the previous owner did a shitty repair on the fender! I'm gonna have to grind off the paint and see what I am dealing with but I felt a strip of something on the underside of the fender so I'm thinking whoever 'fixed' it only applied a bandaid fix. I'm hoping that I can still salvage it and don't have to do any major repair work, we'll see.
Let the madness begin! Again!
After a week on the road with my new job I got back late Friday night. I wanted to start on Saturday but I had some honey do's that I needed to get done and I watched a movie with my daughter. Unfortunately, she also has walking pneumonia so things have been a bit hectic.
I finally got the chance to pull the motor out of the tuff box this afternoon. I cleaned up each case half and will wrap them in plastic to keep any dirt, dust or debri from accumulating. It will have to stay that way until next weekend as I hit the road again tomorrow to work on some production line issues with the vehicle we were contracted to build. Hopefully, my daughter will be well by the time I get back so I can get more done. At least its a start!
OK, need some help. Evidently the dowel pin, 111-101-123, straight pin for crankshaft bearing, has fallen out of one of my crankcase halves. I kinda need that to keep the bearing from spinning and ensuring it lines up with the oil lubrication holes.
PP has them for about a $1 but then wants $4.75 to ship the damn thing!
I don't suppose anyone has an extra one they'd like to part with or knows the measurements so I can try to source it that way?
Unfortunately, I don't have anything I need to order from them to make the shipping worthwile.
[quote name='stephenaki' date='Apr 24 2016, 11:26 AM' post='2335036']
OK, need some help. Evidently the dowel pin, 111-101-123, straight pin for crankshaft bearing, has fallen out of one of my crankcase halves. I kinda need that to keep the bearing from spinning and ensuring it lines up with the oil lubrication holes.
PP has them for about a $1 but then wants $4.75 to ship the damn thing!
I don't suppose anyone has an extra one they'd like to part with or knows the measurements so I can try to source it that way?
Get all new ones and make sure they fit well,order say a couple of oil fiters and other consumables you will always need them,by the way Autohaus have free shipping on orders over $48 dollars at the moment.
OK, it's much harder to put a car together when you're on the road all the time.
Anyway, back for the weekend and got some work done.
Got these cleaned up, new rings installed and they are ready for install.
Got the crank and cam in but the front pulley seal is deformed so I ordered another front and main rear just in case. I had gotten in the locating pins so everything is now good on the crank bearings.
May have been able to use this but I wasn't taking any chances.
I'm on the road again tomorrow but hopefully my seals will be in by the time I get back so I can finish putting the case together and install the pistons and cylinders. Slow but steady.
Been a busy month but got some time to work on the motor. Need to add a few more bolts and nuts then torque and she is ready for they cylinder and pistons. Thankfully Mike Blizzard remembered to ask the question about the timing marks on the Cam and crank; I had forgotten about that. It would not have ended well as I had the marks 180 out!
I need to pick up a couple more bolts as I bought the wrong length and I'll have everything bolted up and ready to torque. Next the fun begins with installing the cylinder's and pistons, that was always a pain in the butt.
All rotating smooth and easy now?
Hope everyone is having a great 4th of July celebration!
I spent a long week over in St. Petersburg, FL last week with wife and daughter in tow. They got to go and see things while I spent the week in meetings and working groups at our corporate headquarters. At least I spent time out on my bosses boat on Saturday before we came back on Sunday.
I got to work on the motor today and got the passenger's side done with the exception of installing the rocker assembly and push rods. I'll do those after I get the other side put together.
I didn't realize that when you have the case cradle that it hinders your ability to just slide on the piston and cylinder assembly and put in the wrist pins and circlips to connect the piston rods. NOW I understand why Porsche uses the piston ring compressor design they do! Thankfully, I found the damn thing! So here is today's effort, I am taking a break and may go out in a bit and work on the other side.
Not how I wanted to put it on!
I had removed the head studs to make it easier to maneuver.
Time to torque the head.
One side down, one side to go!
I chased the exhaust studs before I assembled it to ensure I had no crud built up on it. I'll clean up the intake studs before I start assembling anything else. With any luck, I'll have the base motor done before I have to start traveling again on Wednesday then I get to mess with the FI system.
Well, I've been a bit busy this weekend. I've been on the road for pretty much four weeks straight and finally got to come home for a week or so. I had done some work about three weeks ago when I was home for the weekend so was able to finish the rest off this weekend.
First off, one must remember that engine tin goes on UNDER push tubes! It's even worse when you put oil in it then have to take things apart to fix your screw up!
That being said, got most of the tin on yesterday but had to pull her off the stand as the cradle interfered with the rest of the tin.
Well, my first thought wasn't so smart. I had thought the wife could help, she gave me the, 'your on serious fucking crack!' look. She said, call Mikey! (MBlizzard)
Nope, not gonna bother Mikey, I just had to think it through. She came down perfect!
Got a lot put on yesterday before I called it a day. I can tell I am way out of shape, I was aching yesterday after I was done!
So today I finished her up and got the dizzy in, all the tin on and gearbox mated up.
I have a box full of FI parts that I'll start going through this weekend to see what I have, what needs some help and cleaning, etc. I'm hoping to get it all sorted before I head off to Florida again in a couple of weeks. I am not doing two week stints at our corporate HQ so it makes things a bit more challenging to get to. Progress is being made. Once I get this all sorted it will be time to start prepping the bay for the transition to a side shift setup.
Well, things are moving fast here in TN at least with regards to getting ready to move to Florida. Mike, MBLizzard, came over yesterday and we got three cars ready to move. Put the hard top on the Merc, got the motor into the Teener and got the steering assembly put together for the MG.
We learned that there is a significant difference in motor position on the Teener if you don't swap over the front motor mounts from the tail shift to the side shift mounts. Motor sits quite a bit lower!
Well this is just to move the car as a unit so it will work; just ordered two from Pelican since I will need them eventually. Also was reminded that the standard bolt size for the MG is 5/16 x 24tp.
House goes on the market in February, just about a year after we bought it, then it is time to search the Florida market! Good thing we don't have to do much for prep as I am playing production and program manager this month since my production manager departed for a different position in VA. Been living in Anniston, AL and commuting home o weekends.
And so it begins; house is now on the market. If anyone is looking for a house in the Halls area of Knoxville, let me know and I'll send you the link on Realtor.com!
Now lets see how long this will take to sell; we'd like a quick sale but we haven't figured out quite yet what we would do if it did sell quickly since we can't leave until the end of May.
Well, after a couple of inspections it looks like we are moving ahead with a house in Palmetto, FL. We have to have the VA inspection done before it is all clear but, if all goes well, we'll be closing mid-June.
We've had a couple of offers on our house in TN but we didn't accept them as they were absolutely worthless. Not sure why people think that offering $50K less than the market value and asking for closing costs is an acceptable offer especially in a seller's market.
She'll sell but it may take a bit. I did find a company that will put in my workshop. They'll do the slab and put up the metal building. I plan on putting in a 40x30 slab for a workshop with a metal building. Since we are sitting on a bit over an acre of land I have plenty of room for it! It will also allow me to put in a two post lift which is less expensive than a four post. Can't wait to get things started!
Looking for a lift dealer and installer in the Tampa and south area! Anyone got any recommendations?
So we have sold our house here in TN and will be closing on the house in the Palmetto area mid-June. We have to put a new roof on it but I am also putting in a workshop about 30'x50' and looking for a two post lift. I like the rotary lifts but am open to other options. Anyone know of a good dealer down in the Tampa or Bradenton area that they can recommend?
Were here! Been here about two weeks and still unpacking. Should have the new shop up in about three months. And then I can clear out the garage and move everything over. Went with a 30' x 5'' insulated metal building. I'll have to figure out AC as it is hotter than hades and only gonna get hotter.
I know we have members in the area, any St. Pete, Tampa, Palmetto area Teener events coming up?
Sooooo...I've been a bit busy. We moved down to lovely Florida this past June and I have been swamped with both work and house projects. I kinda focused on getting the MG Midget put back together and put the teener on the back burner. I did however manage to finally get my workshop up.
It is a 30' x 50' in the back of the house. I have to run electrical to it which I am working on now and eventually get the plumbing hooked up. I have to finish the interior and will put up OSB to protect the insulation from damage and will eventually put down Polyurea flooring.
I have a lift coming and will hopefully get that installed this coming week. I'm happy with the building, I just need to get some things cleaned up before I start moving everything over. I'm hoping to be able to start operating out of it by the end of January if not sooner.
That's huge. Fillit up with cars and enjoy the Hell out of it.
Between you and the Doc's cool garage additions. It has me thinking. Some day
Awesome garage. Congrats
That’s a great space. Congrats!
Thanks for the tip in the garage floor coating. I read up on it and it’s what I will lay down in the spring.
Bit the bullet and dropped the dough on the Polyurea coating system. Wife said it was my Christmas present.
I spent the last few days prepping the workshop for the coating. It took two full days to grind the concrete and another day to chemically etch the areas that I couldn't get to with the grinder and clean all the dust up.
I got the last part of the system today and will lay the coating down tomorrow. Pictures to follow when I have it done and I'm writing up my experience so I can share it with others, hopefully someone will find it useful when they decide to do it as well. I read a lot of other people's experiences so figured I should share mine once it is done.
OK, the floor is done. First up observations.
1. 1500 SqFt is an ass kicker!
2. Use proper PPE (personal protective equipment) when putting down the coating especially the paint respirator. The fumes are pretty heavy, you NEED a respirator! Use gloves, lots of them. Get a box of nitrile, latex or whatever but use them. You will go through a lot of them. Make sure you have a dust mask if grinding the cement.
3. Take the time to properly prep the floor. Grinding is the most preferred but also the most labor intensive. I did a chemical etch on the areas that the grinder could not get to.
4. Section off your work and lay the coating by sections. This helps determine how much is needed per section, and gives you a good feel for how thick it should be. I did not do this initially so some areas are heavier than others.
5. Use a hand held quart measure, painter's helper cup, and pour a quart at a time to work with especially the base coat. Don't pour a big glop on the floor, make a ribbon that you work with, it is easier and spreads better.
6. Use spikey shoe strap-ons, you will have to walk on areas where you have laid coating, you will need the spike shoes.
7. Clear coat is really friggin slick!!! Be very cautious when you walk on it with the spike shoes. The anti-skid ingredient, if used, doesn't work until after the floor dries.
8. Clear coat goes on a lot easier and quicker than the base coat.
9. If you grind and use water with the grinder, use two people. The slurry masks the area as you go so you lose site of where you need to grind. The second person can work the hose and help spray the slurry away so you can see what you are doing.
10. If you are dry grinding, get a good vacuum to help keep the dust down. Same issue with slurry, the dust will obscure the area so you can't see what you have done and what you need to do.
11. Make sure the roller you use is for epoxy/polyurea application. DO NOT use just a regular roller. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes or order them on Amazon.
12. When using the anti-skid in the clear coat, always stir it well before applying to the floor. It is a heavy metal that will sink and settle, you need to make sure you keep stirring it before you scoop any up and apply it.
This is not a couple of hour project! It took me two days to grind the concrete and about a half day to remove all the dust and chemical etch the rest of the floor. It took me 7 HOURS to lay down the base coat. So basically, 3 1/2 hours for about 750 SqFt, it is very labor intensive and the base coat is the most challenging to lay down.
It took me only about 3 1/2 hours to lay down the clear coat as the base is relatively smooth so the clear coat glides on easier. It is a bit more difficult to see the areas you have covered with the clear coat, make sure you have good lighting so you can see the "sheen" of the freshly applied clear coat.
Pictures will follow shortly, they aren't a lot but they will give you the general idea.
I used this on my new buildings. Super easy to apply and you can see an immediate difference.
I've had my tractors on it and several trucks and it appears to be working as advertised.
At some point I may add tiles for my working space for comfort and aesthetics.
The concrete is new but it is very smooth so will not hold the coating, it needs to be prepped.
This is a regular floor polisher with a Diamabrush concrete prep tool attached. It works well and is cheaper than a grinder. If you have a large space, I recommend a grinder. I switched to a grinder to finish the job
The dust mask is simple but needed, a lot of dust was kicked up, my vacuum couldn't keep up!
Fucking Leaves!! The concrete contractor didn't make sure the leaves were out of the slab so I had several that I had to pick out of the slab prior to laying the floor.
Grinding done, you can see a difference in the floor texture.
Swapped masks for a paint mask. No way you can handle the fumes without one and I had all three garage doors and pedestrian door open!
Halfway done with the base coat.
Base coat done!
You are supposed to wait a minimum of 6 hours before applying the clear coat. I gave it a complete day as I was sore as hell the next day. I finished up the clear coat today in about half the time and not nearly as labor intensive.
Last of the pictures.
These are pictures of the clear coat. You can see the sheen of the coat which is a good way to tell where you have missed. The base coat is somewhat glossy but the clear coat is much shinier when you are applying it and you can see the difference.
Additionally, with the anti-skip applied, the coating is somewhat yellowish so this also helps a bit when applying. With this product it takes 72 hrs to completely cure. There are other products out there from their competitors that take less time to cure but they are almost double the cost.
All I have left is to build cement ramps (easy to do yourself), get the electrical hooked up and start moving things in. I'll probably have things in before the ramps and electrical are in and it looks like the two post lift will go in next weekend. Perfect timing.
If anyone has any specific questions send me a PM and I will answer it best I can.
Soooooo...a lot happened the last few weeks. We just got back from scheduled vacation today, we did a cruise to Honduras, Belize and Mexico. I start back tomorrow then on Friday, April 6th I no longer work for General Dynamics.
No, I didn't get fired, on the contrary my boss and the rest of the team tried to keep me but after two years of banging my head against a wall I finally decided I was done. Since I already have a retirement check it's not that big a deal unlike a lot of my co-workers. I have a lot of respect for them as they put up with a lot but, I don't have to.
I'll take some time off to get the garage finished off and I already have an offer from one of our suppliers to be a consultant for them which is I think the road I will go down. I also have a former subordinate of mine who is now retired and running his families coffee farm in Nicaragua who is interested in having me work with him to start doing some strategic messaging and social media outreach for his business. He was my top lieutenant out of the ones I had as a commander and we have stayed in touch throughout the years so I am excited at the chance to work with him again.
Hopefully I can finally start back up on the Teener as well as the MG and get these suckers back on the road! I couldn't do it at GD, I spent an ungodly amount of time at work and on the road. I learned a lot but I had less stress going into combat than I did running the Tactical Vehicle Program I was in charge of! Now I need to go and schedule a doc's appointment to figure out why my thumb and two fingers next to it keep going numb and tingly. I would wager 30 years of service contributed to whatever is causing this.
congrats on the re-retirement! -
fyi you numbness pattern in 1,2.3 fingers is C6 and C7 - it could be peripheral-pronation syndrome(entrapment of the nerve in the forearm) or lower neck- cervical stenosis from disc and joint degeneration is possible but it crosses 2 nerve levels so if your having symptoms in all 3 fingers its possible its multi-level involvement - x-rays and CT or MRI - most GP's will just refer to neurologist, which is probably the way to go if its coming from the neck- good luck, hope its just nerve irritation-
Alright, alright alright... breaker box and wiring is in from shop to transformer. Inspection is scheduled for Wednesday then I can have Florida Power and Light hook up the wiring and I will have power to the workshop. WOOHOO!
First order of business will be to wire up the lift once I have power. I plan on finishing up the cross members and getting the drywall up hopefully by the end of the week so I can start running conduit and wire to the breaker box. My goal is to have the shop completely wired up by the end of the month.
Since I am no longer working my ass off and traveling I should be able to get it all done then, I can start on the cars!
Soooo...I've been a bit busy with the workshop and finally got all the wiring done and it passed inspection. I have the plumber coming out today to give me a quote on plumbing a bathroom and sink. All the walls are painted, J-trim is in place on the drywall and I put in a 4" vinyl wall base that I sealed with silicone to keep water out. Here is a small snapshot of what it looks like, I'm putting things away now and organizing.
So here is my question for those in the know, I need to plan the air compressor system, I plan on running a line from one end to the other and on each side and a ceiling drop near the lift. All in all about 150 feet of line will be needed. Copper seems the way to go but I also saw some info on Rapid Air. Anyone have any recommendations on this?
I'm old school did it all in copper.
Iron pipe can also be used. Don't forget to put drop legs in it, and have it slope to allow condensation to drain out of the system and collect in the drops.
Also run one by the garage doors, and along the walls. Air is a great resource to have at hand. One by the door has 50 feet of hose on it. Wish it was 100 ft as 50 can be a stretch on a truck and trailer combo.
What no 220v for your compressor?
OK, finally done. Well, with the exception of the air system but I will get that done later. I can now start working on the cars, first up will be the MG then I'll tackle the Teener.
I will start with the wiring harness as it needs to be cleaned up and re-wrapped. Then I need to lay some heat matting before I put the harness into the vehicle. Lets see how quickly I can get things done! Helps that I'm retired and have nothing better to do
Looks awesome. Congrats!
that is really looking sharp!!
LOTs of space to clutter up- btw hows the hand numbness? hope its resolved
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