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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Steve's unending Progress thread

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 5 2008, 04:39 AM

OK, this will be the thread that I keep updated as I make progress. I showed up at 0800 at Christoph's place and he was ready for me with a not so glamorous chunk of metal that is my cars heart and soul.

With a little assistance, we loaded it into my Toyota Sienna, not quite I envisioned a mini-van for, and I was headed back to the house. Upon getting home I had to first make coffee then clear out some space in my tiny German garage. So that everyone has a frame of reference to the area that I am working in I have enclosed this lovely 4x6 glossy of my garage in Germany.
IPB Image

And, for those of you not familiar with the Toyota Sienna, a shot of the engine in the back of the van. There's a lot of room back there for the motor but, it is awkward to get in and out of when loading a motor.
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Now to summarize what was accomplished on the 4th of July, engine brought home, tin, impeller and housing, exhaust, cylinder head and cylinders removed. I had difficulty removing the impeller hub. OK, I didn't get it removed, will need a puller and I don't have one unless anyone can give me any ideas how to get it off without a puller.

Now for the requisite pictures of the motor unmolested.
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Now based on the initial tear down two problems presented it self first the primary issue with a lack of compression...HOLY SHIT!!! Here is what I found.
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blink.gif blink.gif blink.gif blink.gif
Now the cylnder itself was not pitted, it had a build up of corrosion but otherwise in good condition. So I was thinking, maybe I can just clean hone and replace the piston. Well that thought went out the window when I pulled the cylinder directly opposite to it. As you can see by the photo, problem #2.
IPB Image

More importantly, where did that piece of metal go? An initial look behind the piston shows a knick in the inner portion of the crankcase.
IPB Image

I will see if there is more significant damage when I split the case; so it begins and were off to a rocket start here at the 914 follies! Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of "never buy a car sight unseen" later in the week! happy11.gif

Gonna go shower and start working on the motor some more. Plan is to have it completely torn down befor the end of this weekend. I will load up some pictures to my photo bucket album and post the link a bit later.

Posted by: Gustl Jul 5 2008, 06:18 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 5 2008, 11:39 AM) *

Gonna go shower and start working on the motor some more. Plan is to have it completely torn down befor the end of this weekend. I will load up some pictures to my photo bucket album and post the link a bit later.

Steve, this looks like a lot of work rolleyes.gif
so ... I guess you won't show up at Toni's BBQ today idea.gif

I'll start within the next couple of minutes and will be there at about 1600 - already talked on the phone with Toni, the weather is brilliant, as he told me

I hope I can take some nice photos and show 'em tomorrow

bye1.gif Gustl

Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 5 2008, 07:04 AM

This whole scene looks very familiar. Your garage is exactly the same as mine. I have my 914 in there up on jack stands and I have been rebuilding the motor in the basement of my house.

If it turns out your block is not good let me know. I have a good one sitting at my house right now. It is all cleaned up and tapped for the oil galley plugs.

Don't feel too bad about not being able to drive it. I pulled my engine last august but work and the wife have conspired to keep me from finishing the install. I am close now. Next couple weeks.

Good luck.

Gustl, I can't wait to see pictures from Austria.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Jul 5 2008, 08:59 AM

I bet you will find all that metal in the sump when you split the case. You need new P/C for sure. Build a 1911/2056? May as well, as you have to buy new parts anyhow.

Zach

Posted by: ericread Jul 5 2008, 02:09 PM

Get serious. With a bit of Mother's, it'll buff right out.... biggrin.gif


Posted by: stephenaki Jul 5 2008, 03:23 PM

OK, so I didn't get as much done today as I wanted. Wife went off somewhere so I was watching the crazy child part of the morning; at least until she went over to play at the neighbors.

I did get all the pistons out, clutch plate and flywheel pulled and started to loosen the bolts to crack the case. Clutch was cracked so I will have to replace that, not a big issue.

So, as I read through Jake's process of doing the conversion from 1.7 to 2.0 I recall the mention of machining the heads to a "105mm register." I am not sure I fully understand what is meant by "register." Are we talking about the area where the valves sit that forms part of the combustion chamber? Just want to make sure I know what were talking about.

If this is the case, I did measure the area and it is measuring at 105. So the next question will be the type of crank I have and the piston rod sizes. The pistons are measuring at 94 but I don't know how much the PO prior to the PO I bought if from knew about doing a proper conversion as outlined by Jake. I have the journal and rod specs so can do the measurement for the most part with the exception of the journals as I don't have a micrometer set...yet.

I am hoping that I can formulate a plan and establish what parts I will need by Monday. I will post more pictures tomorrow.

Chris,
I'll let you know if the case is toast or not. My hope is that the chunk of metal made it down to the sump as Zach predicts and didn't tear things up on its way there. Hope to find out tomorrow.

Gustl,
Sorry I didn't make it to Toni's shindig, let me know how it went.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 5 2008, 10:59 PM

Impeller hub: Get some fender washers or other large tough pieces of flat metal. Remove the fan, thread the fan bolts back into the hub. Trap the metal pieces between the ends of the bolts and the crankcase. Give each bolt 1/4 turn at a time, and the hub will pop off.

Register: That's the area of the head that the cylinder fits into.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 6 2008, 01:42 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 5 2008, 08:59 PM) *

Impeller hub: Get some fender washers or other large tough pieces of flat metal. Remove the fan, thread the fan bolts back into the hub. Trap the metal pieces between the ends of the bolts and the crankcase. Give each bolt 1/4 turn at a time, and the hub will pop off.

Register: That's the area of the head that the cylinder fits into.

--DD


Dave,
Thanks, I would have never thought of that for the hub removal, I believe I have several washers down in the basement that will work.

Thanks for confirming what I thought the "register" was. So now I know for sure the requisite head work was done at least partially. Will need to check valve sizes after I pull them. Hopefully will get the case split today to assess the case interior and the crank.

Posted by: Gustl Jul 6 2008, 06:49 AM

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 5 2008, 02:04 PM) *

Gustl, I can't wait to see pictures from Austria.


in fact, the BBQ took place in Germany, about 20 min from Munich (direction Stuttgart)

biggrin.gif Gustl

Posted by: Gustl Jul 6 2008, 06:51 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 5 2008, 10:23 PM) *

Gustl,
Sorry I didn't make it to Toni's shindig, let me know how it went.


I'll start a new thread - it would be too much OT here smile.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 6 2008, 01:29 PM

Case is split! biggrin.gif So after we ran around this morning, I finally got to work on the motor some more. You know, Haynes isn't kidding when they say if it doesn't come apart easily there is still a bolt or nut somewhere that you missed! Good lord! I hope I can remember where the hell all the nuts and bolts go!

I did find the missing cylinder pieces, they got kinda chopped up and pieces were in the sump as Zach predicted. So, I did some reading after I split the case and, someone correct me if I am wrong, based on the rods on the crank I would say that I have a 1.7 crank and rod set. Picture below.
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Anyone think otherwise? So here then is my question for the group and I am looking for your thoughts and recommendations.

Based on the fact that the head register was machined out to accommodate the larger cylinders but the crank and connecting rods are for a 1.7 vice 2.0. What is the way ahead? I am assuming I can't take her back down to a 1.7 and, based on Jakes article on his site, the 1.7 crank and connecting rods don't work very well with the 2.0 cylinder and re-machined heads.

Recommendations on the way ahead? My gut feeling is to pony up the dough and get a 2.0 crankshaft and just build a semi stock 2.0 with correct cylinders, pistons and connecting rods. What say ye oh omnipotent 914 Meisters? pray.gif

Finally the distributor gear has some nicks, photo below, major problem or can I just lightly file the sucker and smooth it out? I am assuming I will just use the existing gears on the 1.7 crank if I transfer to a 2.0 crank.
IPB Image

For those that want more engine porn, the link to my photo bucket album is as follows:
http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/

Looking forward to hearing some suggestions from the group.

Posted by: ! Jul 6 2008, 01:55 PM

If you're married to that motor, get LN Engineering to do up a set of Nickies. Then rebuild it.

Otherwise, I would start with a fresh motor...one THAT YOU want and have it shipped over, use the parts like the carbs. Sell the rest on evilBay.

Doesn't military get a deal on shipping via MAC?

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 6 2008, 02:51 PM

QUOTE(! @ Jul 6 2008, 11:55 AM) *

If you're married to that motor, get LN Engineering to do up a set of Nickies. Then rebuild it.

Otherwise, I would start with a fresh motor...one THAT YOU want and have it shipped over, use the parts like the carbs. Sell the rest on evilBay.

Doesn't military get a deal on shipping via MAC?


Fresh motor is not an option at this point. I am assuming that I can't just pick up a 1.7 mm set of cylinder's and pistons and throw them on based on the fact that the heads were machined out to a 105 register...or is this still an option? BLUF: just want to get it running long enough to finish out my tour in Germany and a year back stateside so I can get my MG put together. After that, I will do a complete tear down and restoration of the engine or buy a rebuilt one from Jake.

Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 6 2008, 05:04 PM

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.

Posted by: Jake Raby Jul 6 2008, 06:02 PM

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.

I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 6 2008, 10:50 PM

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jul 6 2008, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.

I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Chris, Jake,
So if I stick to 94s instead of going to 96s I assume that I don't have to reset the deck height and can stick with the same pushrods? I planned on getting new bearings regardless but will stick with the Dellorto carbs I have now.

I set everything up and kept them in order labeling each part so I know where it goes back to with the exception of the case bolts. What about the distributor gear, salvageable with cleaning up or toss and get a new one? I know that this is the cheap way out but I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! screwy.gif

Thanks for all the help.

Posted by: ericread Jul 7 2008, 03:31 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 6 2008, 09:50 PM) *

I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! screwy.gif

Thanks for all the help.


Now I understand why you picked a 914 to work on. You needed a vehicle designed to perform well in the snow lol3.gif

You might think of beefing up the heater...

Eric


Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 7 2008, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 7 2008, 12:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jul 6 2008, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.

I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Chris, Jake,
So if I stick to 94s instead of going to 96s I assume that I don't have to reset the deck height and can stick with the same pushrods? I planned on getting new bearings regardless but will stick with the Dellorto carbs I have now.

I set everything up and kept them in order labeling each part so I know where it goes back to with the exception of the case bolts. What about the distributor gear, salvageable with cleaning up or toss and get a new one? I know that this is the cheap way out but I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! screwy.gif

Thanks for all the help.


I may be able to get you a 2.0 crank and rods if you need for real cheap. I would have to extract them from a junk core in my friends garage, but if it will help I would be glad to do it.

Posted by: r_towle Jul 7 2008, 05:37 PM

I agree.

what parts do you need? I am sure we all have enough to get you going again.

Rich

Posted by: rick 918-S Jul 7 2008, 07:10 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 6 2008, 08:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jul 6 2008, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.

I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Chris, Jake,
So if I stick to 94s instead of going to 96s I assume that I don't have to reset the deck height and can stick with the same pushrods? I planned on getting new bearings regardless but will stick with the Dellorto carbs I have now.

I set everything up and kept them in order labeling each part so I know where it goes back to with the exception of the case bolts. What about the distributor gear, salvageable with cleaning up or toss and get a new one? I know that this is the cheap way out but I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! screwy.gif

Thanks for all the help.



Someone will answer your questions soon. icon_bump.gif

popcorn[1].gif

List the parts you need. I'm sure I don't have much but there are alot of guys here that do.

Posted by: kwales Jul 7 2008, 07:50 PM

Buy a new one- dstributor gears are cheep. They might even be a beetle part.
Parts book says p/n 111.105.223- Driving gear- same for all years

You have to pull the old gear off to get the old bearings off the crank. The removal can involve heating, a puller and a little cussing. Or a big ass press.

Ken

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 8 2008, 01:06 AM

QUOTE

Someone will answer your questions soon. icon_bump.gif

popcorn[1].gif

List the parts you need. I'm sure I don't have much but there are alot of guys here that do.


OK, in order to do the proper conversion that Jake outlines I am in need of the following items.

2.0 Crank
2.0 connecting rods

I found a set of AA 94mm piston cylinder set so all I need to fully convert this sucker is the crank and connecting rods. If anyone has them please let me know and how much with shipping of course. I would rather do a proper conversion than just a half assed job.

The remaining items, bearings etc, I can get easy once I do the requisite measurements on the crank, etc.
I'll be standing by for any assistance you all can give me. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Smitty911 Jul 8 2008, 09:58 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 8 2008, 12:06 AM) *

QUOTE

Someone will answer your questions soon. icon_bump.gif

popcorn[1].gif

List the parts you need. I'm sure I don't have much but there are alot of guys here that do.


OK, in order to do the proper conversion that Jake outlines I am in need of the following items.

2.0 Crank
2.0 connecting rods

I found a set of AA 94mm piston cylinder set so all I need to fully convert this sucker is the crank and connecting rods. If anyone has them please let me know and how much with shipping of course. I would rather do a proper conversion than just a half assed job.

The remaining items, bearings etc, I can get easy once I do the requisite measurements on the crank, etc.
I'll be standing by for any assistance you all can give me. beerchug.gif


http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_4a.htm

Here is a place in Santa Ana that has 2.0 cranks and connecting rods. There about 10 miles away from me.

Smitty

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 9 2008, 01:00 AM

QUOTE(Smitty911 @ Jul 8 2008, 07:58 PM) *


http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_4a.htm

Here is a place in Santa Ana that has 2.0 cranks and connecting rods. There about 10 miles away from me.

Smitty


Thanks, pretty reasonable price for the stock stuff, any experience with them at all?

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 9 2008, 02:06 AM

OK, edumacate me everyone. I looked at the site that Smitty sent me and on the connecting rods there were two options, stock 2.0 and balanced 2.0. What is the difference and, if I just get a stock 2.0 crank, which set of connecting rods is better? blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 13 2008, 03:28 PM

Two things to update today; first is status of crank and connecting rods, second is did some cleaning up of the crankcase and heads.

I called the guys in Santa Ana that Smitty provided the website to and then emailed them requesting a total quote for the crank, a set of connecting rods and shipping. Haven't gotten anything yet; Smitty, I may be hitting you up to go and get what I need from them and arrange to pay you instead.

I took the crankcase and heads over to post today to clean them up and planned on removing the valves and springs to inspect the head further. Didn't get to the valve removal, ran out of time. I did get a good amount of the crankcase cleaned up but still have more to go. The cooling fins are a bit rough but not unserviceable. Cleane quite a lot of gunk off the case halves but sill have more to go. Also got a basic cleaning done on the heads and hope to pull the valves off this week.

I did notice on one of the exhaust manifolds that I was missing a set of studs and one of those holes already had evidence of a helicoil in it. The other hole was completely baren so will need a new stud put in. No problem, I will do that before I re-assemble the engine.

I did a search on media blasting for the case and heads and couldn't find much as most of the posts were on media blasting the car shell. I know that Andy is not a big fan of media blasting, anyone else have any experience? I want to make sure the heads and case are clean enough to eat off of and all the gunk is gone completely and, the solvent tank isn't completely cutting it. Feedback please, thanks. biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 20 2008, 09:44 AM

OK, so after doing some studying yesterday morning I headed out for the autocraft shop to work on the cylinder heads. piratenanner.gif

The goal was to finish the dismantle and clean up the heads and valves for inspection. First problem, none of the valve compressors they had worked for the cylinder! They didn't have a pneumatic one like I used back state side so after about an hour of screwing around I wound up using a big ass "C" clamp and socket to compress the valve then shake the shit out if to get the keepers to fall off. Typical Army solution to a lack of proper tools. It worked. And for those that are wondering, here is a picture of my solution.
IPB Image

Needless to say I screwed around trying to get the spring compressors to work before I did the "C" clamp solution so only got a couple of valve springs and keepers off. I had to go to Ikea with the wife to get some other things so didn't get to stay as long as I wanted too.

So, today, I finished the job. Again, had to do some studying first for my exam. That's always fun translating sentences into Sie, du and Ihr form then making them questions and imperatives in each form. blink.gif

I went back to the autocraft shop around noon and immediately got a socket and "C" clamp to finish the job. So got all the springs and keepers off but none of the valves would come out. Feel around the top and there was an edge built up of metal, not carbon. Well, no sandpaper so I took a fine file and carefully worked off all the edges. Had to do this to every valve.

After about 3 hours of work I got all the valves our and cleaned up and also cleaned up the heads a bit. As you can see by the pictures, no cracks in the heads, this a good thing! They will still need a valve job though just for GP.
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IPB Image
IPB Image
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I don't have any good pictures of the valves but they are in good shape overall and can be re-used. The biggest issue is on one of the heads the valve guide on the bottom was flat for a lack of a better description. If you look closely at the picture you will see what I mean.
IPB Image

So, does this mean I will need to replace the guides on this sucker? my assumption is yes but I would like some more experienced input on this. Only one head had this problem, the other head was fine. Play in the valves was very minimal from what I could feel but I didn't have a dial indicator to double check this.

I head back this week after my exam to finish cleaning the crankcase and, when all the Germans come back from vacation, will take the heads and valve's in for cleaning up and a valve job and the crankcase in to be checked for alignment. Will probably take the tin in this week as well and get it cleaned up. I am going to cheap out on the tin and paint it myself once it is completely cleaned and rust treated. When I do the body off restoration I will have it powder coated.

I did get my crankshaft and connecting rods ordered thanks to Smitty's link to the place in California. Once those parts come in I will take everything to get balanced. Slowly making progress; the biggest pain is waiting for parts because even though you can find them here in Deutschland, it is cheaper to buy and ship them from the states. Go figure. Gotta do more studying. beer3.gif

Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 20 2008, 06:17 PM

Glad to see you are making progress. I feel your pain on getting parts. I have spent a lot of time searching for parts over here with very little success. The parts are here but they are usually twice the price at best.

I also feel your pain on getting work done here. I have actually sent stuff back to the states for machine work and gotten it back faster and cheaper than I would here.

I should have mine up and running soon. I hope yours goes well too.

Posted by: r_towle Jul 20 2008, 08:12 PM

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 21 2008, 02:12 AM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 20 2008, 06:12 PM) *

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

I don't think the autocraft shop has a dial indicator but I plan on checking. I need to get a new scotch pad to clean up the heads a bit more, this weekend was the first cleaning.

I will have Christoph do a better check for cracks as I don't have the ability to heat up the head as you recommend. Now, if the valves measure within tollerance the question is do the two guides on the one head have to be changed regardless based on one side being kinda flat.

Posted by: Smitty911 Jul 21 2008, 02:34 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 21 2008, 01:12 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 20 2008, 06:12 PM) *

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

I don't think the autocraft shop has a dial indicator but I plan on checking. I need to get a new scotch pad to clean up the heads a bit more, this weekend was the first cleaning.

I will have Christoph do a better check for cracks as I don't have the ability to heat up the head as you recommend. Now, if the valves measure within tollerance the question is do the two guides on the one head have to be changed regardless based on one side being kinda flat.



Forget the ink, if your in an Aircraft Shop or have one nearby ANY of the inspectors should have some Liqued Penetrant. Ask them to check your heads or borrow it. For Aluminum you shouldn't need to heat them up if you use a level I pen. It's either BLUE or RED. You can also ask a Welder for some except you may have to ahh an Explitive to the Blue or Red word. biggrin.gif

Smitty

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 9 2008, 09:19 AM

Well, the crankshaft and rods came in last week Tuesday however, I was on a plane to Tel Aviv, Israel on Wednesday and just got back today. Needless to say I haven't don't anything yet with the engine. I am hoping to drop off the parts to be balanced this week as Christoph should be back from vacation. Will have him order the bearings since their cost is negligible.

If my luck holds I'll have everything back by the end of the month and start re-assembly. beerchug.gif We shall see what the future brings. By the way, Israel, lot like southern California in its terrain except they speak Hebrew. Tel Aviv was similar to NY City in that they didn't seem to sleep there, I got up at 0200 this morning to take an early morning flight and there were all kinds of people out and about. blink.gif

Posted by: ThinAir Aug 9 2008, 04:36 PM

This is a great thread. I really appreciate all the photos and descriptions of what you are finding.

Can you post a link to the article on Jake's site that you've mentioned? I seem to have a collection of 1.7s that could be candidates for 2.0 conversions. I'm really glad to know about DPR since I have a 2.0 with a frozen rod bearing (don't ask) and I know that when I eventually rebuild this engine I'll need their services.

Posted by: stephenaki Sep 10 2008, 01:15 PM

QUOTE(ThinAir @ Aug 9 2008, 02:36 PM) *

This is a great thread. I really appreciate all the photos and descriptions of what you are finding.

Can you post a link to the article on Jake's site that you've mentioned? I seem to have a collection of 1.7s that could be candidates for 2.0 conversions. I'm really glad to know about DPR since I have a 2.0 with a frozen rod bearing (don't ask) and I know that when I eventually rebuild this engine I'll need their services.


Sorry it took me so long to respond but I have been a bit busy at work as of late and not exactly in country. The link is:

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=2328

you may have to sign up for a free membership to view the forums but he has a lot of great info there.

On a different note, the engine component parts were sent for balancing last week and should be ready. I ordered the gaskets, seals, etc from Jake and they are on the way. Unfortunately, the rebuild is now on hold as I got told this afternoon to pack my stuff cause I'm heading to a country that shall remain un-named to stand a team up to do??? Needless to say I will be gone until mid-October if not longer. Just when I thought I was making progress!! av-943.gif

I had managed to avoid a third trip to Israel but by doing so got tagged with this new mission. Son of a bitch! I am gonna get a quote from Christoph to see how much he'll charge me if I just give him the rest of the parts and let him finish the rebuild and install the engine. I head out this Sunday so need to make some quick arrangements as my wife is currently stateside and my middle son, he's 19, is here. He gets to live alone for a couple of weeks until my wife gets back.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 13 2008, 07:09 AM

OK, I'm back from my adventures in the Republic of Georgia. piratenanner.gif Did you know that a two lane road can fit 4 cars abreast if you really try? I thought Italians were crazy drivers! blink.gif

I got back this past Friday and, after some honey do's, started to take stock of what I have to to on the engine. I need to pick up some lubricants and get the appropriate assembly chemicals together before I can start. Looks like Christoph ordered me a set of gaskets and seals so now I have two sets.

Took all the tin and pushrod tubes to the powder coater for blasting, metal straightening and powder coating. Doing the tin in Ferarri red! Hope to re-assemble the heads this week once I can find someone with a decent valve spring compressor, may have to buy one as the 'C' clamp and socket solution works great getting the springs off but not so well getting them back on.

I wanted to start this weekend but the wife wants to go to a crystal factory sale near Ansbach and then we are driving over to the Czech Republic for the day so I won't get anything done this weekend.

As I start down the engine re-assembly road, any advice, tips or tricks that will make this job a bit easier? I really miss NAPA, O'Reily's, Autozone, etc.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 9 2008, 06:59 AM

OK, Tin's back along with the fan housing and push tubes from the powder coater. Yes I know, need pics, will try to get and post some this weekend. I am hoping the Crankcase and rod bearings will be in tomorrow. If everything is in I can finish putting the crankshaft back together this week and hopefully start motor assembly this Sunday.

I would do it on Saturday but we are hosting a party at the house so I have to cook and clean. It's a very non-traditional Christmas with Ceviche, Kalua pig and Chook. chowtime.gif That's what you get from half a Chinaman raised in Hawaii. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and maybe I'll get the motor done before then! santa_smiley.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 15 2008, 07:09 AM

OK, I think my car has a curse on it or something to that effect. huh.gif I called Christoph this morning, bearings are in...WOOHOO! He wants me to bring a connecting rod with me so we can test fit the rod bearings as well, no problem. Take off at ten, swing by the house, pick up the connecting rod and wife and off we go.

Get to Dotternhausen and walk into the shop; for those that are interested, his website is www.boxmot.de, ist nur auf Deutsch.

Christoph pulls out the crank bearings and we slide them on...perfect! He yells for Udo to undo the nuts on the connecting rod then wanders off while Udo takes a rod bearing and puts it in...ok, tries to put it in. NOPE headbang.gif

So he measures the inside of the connecting rod assembled, 52, measures the bearings put together 55. Holy shiessa! Thats waaaaaaaaaay off! Well the next 30 minutes are spent trying to figure out what happened but when it is all said and done the crank and connecting rod are at Christoph's place so he can make sure the next set of bearings are the right fit. Damnit, so close!.

On a positive note, I borrowed a metric tap and die set from the autocraft shop and cleaned up all the holes and studs. Need to finish cleaning the left half of the case and then will stick it into a platic bag to keep the dust off of it. Had the boy clean all the studs before I put them back on and had him cleaning the impeller as well. I had hoped that I could have the engine reassembled before the 24th but that I think is now out the window. Good thing my wife is understanding, for that matter good thing I am otherwise Christoph would have gotten an ear full. Oh well, stuff happens, no sense getting too worked up about it cause it won't change it.

Stay tuned for more misadventures of the 914 chronicles screwy.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Dec 15 2008, 09:41 AM

Sounds like you got 1.7/1.8 bearings instead of the 2.0 ones...

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 15 2008, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 15 2008, 07:41 AM) *

Sounds like you got 1.7/1.8 bearings instead of the 2.0 ones...

--DD

Dave,
Yep, that would be exactly the problem. I wrote the part number on my hand then cross referenced it with the AA catalog and that is exactly what popped up. Right size, wrong rod. Not sure if I wasn't clear with Christoph that I had 2.0 rods or if the guy he place the order with didn't understand it. Regardless, she ain't getting put together before Christmas as the French say, "Say la vie."

I'll just clean up some of the other parts while I wait for the correct bearings...oh yeah and I gotta drink the beer I have left from my party! Andecks Doppel Bock, 7.1% alcohol content it kicks ass! beer3.gif I'll definitely miss the beer when I leave Germany. huh.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 8 2009, 09:45 AM

Called Christoph today, again I need to reiterate my hypothesis that my car is cursed, he was able to get 2 connecting rod bearings in the right size but was having trouble finding 2 more. Needless to say, I still can't put my damn motor back together yet! mad.gif headbang.gif

So, he is still looking and I sent a couple of emails out and finally found a set at PP; their web-page said they had 4 sets of 2.0L (.25) German bearings in stock and I got an email stating they would ship on Monday. I'm not going to believe it until I get the notification that they actually shipped. So much for my weekend plans to do some final cleaning and then start assembly.

I may yet do the cleaning and do an inventory of parts to make sure I have everything I need then lay it out for assembly. Problem I will run into is I am taking my son skiing end of next week and when I get back we roll into a big exercise that will keep me busy for the next couple of weeks. It is looking now like February before I get the car up and running.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 15 2009, 08:40 AM

The bearings are in and they fit! The crank is re-assembled, were ready to rock and roll baby!! piratenanner.gif

I got the rod bearings in yesterday and took them out to Christoph at lunch today along with the distributor drive gear Circlip (it was hiding in the packing popcorn of the box that I had the old crank in). So, while I was there, we checked fitment of the rod bearings...perfect and then Christoph began the crank re-assembly while I stood by and observed.

OK, everything says "press" this off, "press" this on...yada, yada, yada. So far none of the Germans that I have worked with have used a press. They used a puller to get the drive gear and timing gear off and then Christoph brought out a high speed heat gun, big ass adjustable wrench and soft face hammer to put the gears back on. They also had the Porsche 914 factory book out and used it as a reference to make sure they put things back together correctly.

Unfortunately, they got the timing gear on the wrong side forward the first time and had to pull the gear and redo it. Christoph did offer to give me the factory book to use for motor re-assembly but between this forum, my Haynes and the other books I have I think I should be good. Besides, mein Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut und, I would spend more time translating than actually working on the car.

I plan on laying everything out and setting up my workspace tomorrow but wont' be able to get to re-assembly until probably next weekend as I head to Oberamergau to go skiing and snowboarding this weekend. Will try to get a picture of everything layed out tomorrow time permitting. Its been almost a full year from the time I picked the car up in Sicily, Italy and this adventure began. Hopefully I will be able to close the first chapter by the end of February and have her on the road. Wish me luck. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 16 2009, 05:38 AM

Finally got around to getting some pictures of the powder coating work that I had done on the tin. The color is Ferarri red for most of it with the push tubes being high temp flat black.

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Will take the crankcase halves in this afternoon for a final steam cleaning and wrap them up until I start assembly.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 25 2009, 01:42 PM

Progress is being made, slow, deliberate and educational but progress never the less. So Friday evening I cleaned up all the case bolts by soaking them in simple green then brushing them with a toothbrush and brass wire brush. Also soaked them in Evaporust to get any rust off them and treat them.

Saturday I got the crankshaft assembled with the rods mounted and properly torqued. I spent the rest of the day reading, researching and taking daughter to a birthday party so didn't get to do much more other than set the garage up for assembly. A picture of the assembled crank.

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Put it together in the basement.

After a posting and some answers I was ready to start assembly...oh wait, I don't have a stand that will fit it. Crap, not only was my stand occupied but it wouldn't work for the Porsche motor. So, after some careful thought I chose the redneck solution and built a stand out of 2x2s.
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Its actually sitting on oil absorbing material which is set on a furniture mover! Simple and efficient only one problem. I built it for the wrong case half! Dangit! Well, I don't have time to re-build another one so...we move to contingency plan 'b' or what I call the 'ghetto redneck' solution.
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Just grab the scrap 2x2 wood, turn the original redneck stand around and carefully place things and...wella!

Thus began the insertion of the bearings, lube, etc. OK, lining up the #1 and 4 crank bearings with the dowel rod is easier said than done. After initial assembly with what I thought was a properly lined up bearing I turned the crank. Didn't turn easy, maybe it's just this type of motor? So, post another question about turn resistance, sit, contemplate, get annoyed, go back out and pull the case apart again and start over!

This time I took off the bearings, placed them in the case and then made alignment tics on the bearing and case. This time when the crank went in my son and I lined up the tick marks before putting the case back on. Finger tighten the nuts and bolts, spin the crank. BEAUTY!! Spun much easier, clearly didn't have the bearings lined up to the dowel pin correctly the first go around. Finished torquing the case bolts and nuts and called it a day. Covered the motor with plastic to keep dust out and closed up the garage.

Would have liked to do more but it was 33 degrees here in Stuttgart and my little heater couldn't keep up. Besides the outlet in the garage and the light don't work very well. Landlord paid the lowest bidder to wire the place so it tends to flip the breaker consistently. Well before I close this out, one last picture. My son Alex with his broken wrist; he broke it snowboarding last weekend which kinda set back his basic training date for the air force.
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Hopefully I can slap on the pistons and cylinders next weekend and finish most of it off. Have to check endplay of the crank but will need to get a dial gauge as the autocraft shop here doesn't have one. I feel better now that I am moving closer to finishing the engine. smile.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 15 2009, 10:57 AM

OK, so, after discussion and reading on deck height and some other things I made some progress today. Unfortunately, not as far as I wanted as I was missing some washers. So, I will head out to Boxter tomorrow and get some cylinder head stud nuts and washers.

Still, I got the pistons and cylinders in and heads on along with the oil pump. Of course I had to roll the motor into the living room in the house to do it but it got done. It was a balmy 20 degrees here this morning and there was no way I was going to work in the garage without heat! Good thing the wife had errands to run but she still came back to a bit of a mess that I cleaned up later on. So for those interested, some photos. Yes, that's a Dora the explorer backpack in the background. Had to move the daughters table and chairs out of the way!

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Posted by: stephenaki May 7 2009, 11:14 AM

Well, did you ever get the feeling the automotive gods gazed down on you and with a twinkle in their omnipotent eyes and smirk they say..."he is not worthy, smite him and cause him pain!!" Yep, I would be the ire of which they speak, the sliver in their finger, the thorn in their side, the fly in their chardonay...

So, I finally got the endplay worked out and had the case cleaned as well as the broken oil dipstick tube removed. The plan was to assemble today, drop off at Christoph's tomorrow and pick up a running car upon my return from Scotland. Well, we have a saying in the Army, maybe I have said it before, I can't remember but, it is simply, "no plan survives first contact." ar15.gif

This is why we develop contingency plans, branches and sequels...That may work in tactical operations but it doesn't do so well with motor assembly. I came home at lunch, cut the grass and then slapped in the crank and put the two case halves together to check end play. Now, my son is now gone, he is probably getting yelled at right now by a drill sergeant so I don't have a second set of hands to help me out. No problem, carefully line up the bearings, check to make sure they are in the correct position, feels good, looks good, must be good! NOT! lol-2.gif lol-2.gif

Crank turns easily and the bearings don't rotate. I am positive number 3 and number 4 are seated and number 1 isn't moving either. Put on the other half and torque the 6 thru bolts. Damn, she doesn't turn! Hell! now what. OK, don't panic, loosen the nuts, take the case apart and make sure things are seated correctly.

hmm, crank still won't turn, damn, I gotta go back to work. Will check when I get back.

So back to work, leave at about 1500 and head home to work on the motor. Pull the crank out of the case, dang, the #1 bearing is stuck! This isn't good, well a little tapping and she comes off. Inspect the crank, no burrs or any damage, inspect the bearing, dang its damage! You can see where its pushed in just a bit and an edge flat. What the hell just happened?! WTF.gif

Well it took me a bit until I figured it out, well, I hadn't noticed it before but there is small hole right next to the dowel pin hole that is just a bit shallower but the same diameter as the dowel pin. Sooooo, when I was checking to see if the bearing was seated it was in the shallow hole and not the correct dowel pin hole. headbang.gif

Because of this when I put the case together and torqued it down the pin pushed the bearing in. Guess I need a new #1 bearing. I can't seem to catch a break on this car! It's a good thing I have become much more patient as I got older or I would have probably torched the car and motor by now. blink.gif

So, tomorrow, since I have off, I will be scrambling to find a new #1 bearing. If I can find one then I can get the motor assembled and get it to Christoph's shop Saturday morning. If not, I'll get it on order and put it together when I get back from Scotland. I will run over to the VW dealer in the morning and see what they can do for me. Wish me luck! In the meantime, I'm gonna drink me a Belgium beer and clean the house so I don't have to do it tomorrow before I depart. beer3.gif beer3.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 10 2009, 11:20 AM

Well, after a couple of weeks and a motorcycle trip to Scotland and back I'm back on track to finishing the motor. I received the new set of crank bearings yesterday from Type IV and got a chance to fit everything together today.

I would have done it yesterday but, I was a bit immobile. I pulled my lower back out of wack at the gym so couldn't really do much other than hobble around and lay around. When the bearings came in it was a bit of a slap in the face as the box looked at me and said, 'HA, WHATCHA GONNA DO ABOUT IT BROKE DICK!!!!' bootyshake.gif

Well, what I did about it was go see the Doc on post who proceeded to unpretzel me with some chiropractic type moves. He said my spine and miscellaneous bones were out of wack and he proceeded to correct that.

It wasn't until I left the office though and stuck the Tens machine on me that the pain went away and I was able to actually do shit! WOOHOO!! piratenanner.gif First things first, check to make sure the bearings are the right size! Yep, now, put the half up with the dowel rods and fit all the bearings properly then mark them!

After that I spent the next couple of hours hand cleaning the mating surfaces and transferring some studs from the old case halves to the new one. Once everything was cleaned up and dry I began to assemble the case with bearings to check endplay. This time I make sure everything was lined up and the crank spun freely before I torqued it down.

That went well but had to have the wife help me get the assembled case down from the work bench. Normally an easy task for me but not when you have a hurt lower back and don't want to re-injure it.

Slapped on three shims, thick ones all at .38mm, torqued the flywheel down and took some measurements. .004mm WOOHOO!! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif I didn't mess with it anymore but I have more shims than I can shake a stick at in some smaller sizes so all I have to do now is mix and match till I get the right measurement. I will do this tomorrow but sitting on the ground made my back sore so stopped for today.

Hopefully things will go well tomorrow and I can start final assembly; keep your fingers crossed!

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 12 2009, 01:49 PM

Well, after a full day the motor is 98% complete! Why not a 100%? Because the &*&(*&^%$# valve adjustment screw on the #2 cylinder exhaust valve busted!!! I swear their is some mischievous Menehune (Hawaiian Leprechaun) running around my place just mucking things up! mad.gif

Well, be that as it may, he will not defeat me, if nothing else I'm a persistent SOB and will never surrender to defeat! happy11.gif

So, I just finished installing the shims, and flywheel with the seal and put in the front seal as well. I only got the #1 cylinder valve clearance adjusted before the #2 cylinder valve screw issue.

I loaded her up into the van along with the tin and remaining parts and will take it over to Boxter tomorrow to have them finish it up. Not much has to be done but they can get it done faster than I can.

I'm thinking when I get my MG finished and tear the 914 down for a complete resto of doing a subie conversion or just forking out the dough and getting a motor from Jake. Depends on where I am at in the next few years. In the meantime, I am hoping Christoph and his crew can get it up and running by the end of next week. Stay tuned for more 914 follies! blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 10 2009, 11:37 AM

Hot damn! After almost about a year and a half she is back up and running! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

I called Christoph on Monday and the motor was running great, he was finalizing some brake details and plumbing the heat exchanger system and told me it should be done today.

I called him today, yup, she's done! Couldn't pick her up yet though as he was waiting for the TUV to get me the historical certification so I can be exempt from the Umwelt laws.

So, I am to call him tomorrow to see if the TUV guys need to come out to see the car again, hopefully not and I can pick her up tomorrow. Still will need to do some things like put in new seals to the targa top so she doesn't leak but I can do that after I get her back. Will have to maneuver the car and bike both into the small garage but I am sure it won't be a problem.

Will get some pictures when I get her back. I'm just glad she's finally done! At least until I get my MG back together and strip her down completely for a full resto-mod! But that will have to wait a bit. Anyone want a pair of centerline racing rims? I got 4 that I want to get rid of! I'm going to see what I can find on the local market here in Deutschland. With so many small 4 lug cars I may be able to find a nice set of rims that work.

Posted by: Gustl Jul 10 2009, 01:06 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 10 2009, 06:37 PM) *

Hot damn! After almost about a year and a half she is back up and running! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

congrats smilie_pokal.gif

let me know when you're ready for a little tour driving.gif

beerchug.gif Gustl

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 11 2009, 08:01 AM

QUOTE(Gustl @ Jul 10 2009, 11:06 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 10 2009, 06:37 PM) *

Hot damn! After almost about a year and a half she is back up and running! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

congrats smilie_pokal.gif

let me know when you're ready for a little tour driving.gif

beerchug.gif Gustl


Hopefully, I'll get a chance to run up your way late July or sometime in August. I called and talked to Christoph and the TUV guy wanted him to do some minor welding on the floorboard to repair a crack and there was some fluid leaking out of one of the calipers. I need to call him again on Monday as I forgot to ask which one as he was trying to figure out the English word for caliper. Scheiben?

He did think I would be able to pick it up on Wednesday. I will probably put her up on the lift at the auto shop and do a complete brake system inspection when I get her back to make sure all the pads, rotors, calipers and lines are good. Will more than likely replace all the rotors and pads then rebuild the calipers later on down the road. Especially if I get re-assigned back stateside and plan on running all the way down to Sicilia to put the car on a boat to the states.

Will let you know how things turn out and, once I get the car back, plan a trip to visit you!

Posted by: Gustl Jul 11 2009, 08:48 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 11 2009, 03:01 PM) *

I need to call him again on Monday as I forgot to ask which one as he was trying to figure out the English word for caliper. Scheiben?

AFAIK caliper is the english word for "Bremssattel"
"Bremsscheibe" would be break disk

If you have time and your car is ready we could meet somewhere half way between us. Maybe Tannheimertal, Sonthofen or something else in this area?

Good luck with your car and the TÜV inspection aktion035.gif

driving.gif Gustl

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 11 2009, 01:37 PM

QUOTE(Gustl @ Jul 11 2009, 06:48 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 11 2009, 03:01 PM) *

I need to call him again on Monday as I forgot to ask which one as he was trying to figure out the English word for caliper. Scheiben?

AFAIK caliper is the english word for "Bremssattel"
"Bremsscheibe" would be break disk

If you have time and your car is ready we could meet somewhere half way between us. Maybe Tannheimertal, Sonthofen or something else in this area?

Good luck with your car and the TÜV inspection aktion035.gif

driving.gif Gustl

That makes sense.

Posted by: roadster fan Jul 12 2009, 04:50 PM

smilie_pokal.gif Love your persistence! Hope you have many happy hours of driving.gif

Jim

Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 12 2009, 08:11 PM

Congratulations! I am really jealous. I got my car up and running just in time to miss the whole summer. We will have to meet up and go for a drive when I get back. Unless it is snowing when I get back in October.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 17 2009, 08:09 AM

Well ladies and gentlemen, it's home. piratenanner.gif Christoph had to do some major work before it could be released and I am not sure I want to see the bill!

So, what else did he do? Let see.

- Replace the rotors and bolts on front wheels
- Replace the right front strut and shock
- Replace the right front brake caliper
- Replace the brake master cylinder
- Replace the brake proportioning valve
- under body welds and various places
- electrical work, did I mention the PO totally jacked up the wiring harness and electrical connections? Christoph said that they had a hard time because the wiring didn't match the diagram!
- Replaced all 5 wheels and rims, TUV wanted a more original rim for the historical cert so he gave me 4 new/used pegrini rims. Still got the old ones, gonna sell em on ebay as they will fit a VW beetle.

So what is left to do?
- Rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced eventually. Anyone got a set of used ones I can send for rebuild?
- I seem to have a minor oil leak I think in the front seal, need to track it down.
- leak in targa top needs to be identified and fixed.

She runs OK, little rough when she is cold and I am pretty sure I will need to rebuild the tranny eventually but for now she runs and is registered. Now I just have to mortage a house to pay for the German labor costs! Will get a picture this weekend and post.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 19 2009, 08:19 AM

OK, I got a chance to check some things on the car today; had to put my wife on a plane yesterday to head to the states so didn't have the chance yesterday. The wife is heading to San Antonio to help my dad as my mom is in the hospital and he is having a tough time.

So, first thing, check on the oil leak. Well, looks like it is either leaking from several locations or dripping onto metal and then moving down the metal until it falls on the ground. I won't really get a better picture until I put her on the lift sometime this week or next weekend.

Seals on the targa top and around the window and rear area are just about dry rotted and shot. Will need to replace all the seals; should solve the leak that I got when it was raining on me. Not a big leak but significant enough to piss me off.

Lights need alignment with the body but the seals on the front hood also need replacement as it's harder than a rock!

I gave Christoph 4 quarts of oil but the dipstick is reading significantly low...WTF? Well, will just go and buy more oil and put some in. I am hoping this week will be nice so I can run her with the top off and work out some of the kinks.

In truth, I think the work has just begun. blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 21 2009, 03:48 AM

OK, I now know why the cost of living is so expensive here, I just got the repair bill and this is after discounts.

Even after steadily bringing him money to the tune of 2300 Euro my final bill that I have left is still 7186 Euro or a little over $10k with the current exchange rate. sad.gif

The wife is going to freak! blink.gif We have the means to pay the bill but it will wipe out some money we have put aside. I may be putting this car on the German market for about 5k Euros as that will give me back at least $7k.

I hate to do it but I may not have a choice. The parts were not the issue, I wracked up close to 7700 Euros in labor alone! OUCH!!!

Anyone got a winning lottery ticket? Gonna go bang my head on a wall now, already sent an email to the wife and gave her some courses of action. She is in the states having to deal with my parents, I really didn't want to drop this on her.

Posted by: Gustl Jul 21 2009, 04:17 AM

oh man, I'm really sorry about this sad.gif

I knew from my own experience that professional labor on the 914 is very expensive, but I didn't think that it would be so much in your case ...

I hope that you could keep the teener ...

good luck

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 21 2009, 04:19 AM

QUOTE(Gustl @ Jul 21 2009, 02:17 AM) *

oh man, I'm really sorry about this sad.gif

I knew from my own experience that professional labor on the 914 is very expensive, but I didn't think that it would be so much in your case ...

I hope that you could keep the teener ...

good luck


Sent you a PM exploring the sale in Germany possibility.

Posted by: Cupomeat Jul 21 2009, 08:35 AM

Damn, This is a shame about the bill total and the need to dump the car.

My dad recently had his 1930 Model A Ford professionally restored (exterior) and they gave him an original quote of $6,000-$8,000.

Well, over the course of the resto, he paid them $11k in progress payments and they never mentioned that they estimate was significantly off.

Well, at the end of it, they hit him with a $27,000 bill for the work. That was well beyone what was expected and of course my dad didn't have enough money to pay it (he is retired) so he left them the car and went back to regroup.

In the end, he found the money and got the car, but I am a big fan of having the shop tell you when they reach certain money thresholds, just to make sure both can survive the final outcome.

Then again, as any restoration should be expected to be 3x the original time and dollar amounts, it wasn't that far off. Conventional wisdom is right.

So, sorry about your situation, good luck in the final outcome, and it would be a shame for you to sell the 914, especially after getting this far with it.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 22 2009, 04:33 AM

QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Jul 21 2009, 06:35 AM) *

Damn, This is a shame about the bill total and the need to dump the car.

My dad recently had his 1930 Model A Ford professionally restored (exterior) and they gave him an original quote of $6,000-$8,000.

Well, over the course of the resto, he paid them $11k in progress payments and they never mentioned that they estimate was significantly off.

Well, at the end of it, they hit him with a $27,000 bill for the work. That was well beyone what was expected and of course my dad didn't have enough money to pay it (he is retired) so he left them the car and went back to regroup.

In the end, he found the money and got the car, but I am a big fan of having the shop tell you when they reach certain money thresholds, just to make sure both can survive the final outcome.

Then again, as any restoration should be expected to be 3x the original time and dollar amounts, it wasn't that far off. Conventional wisdom is right.

So, sorry about your situation, good luck in the final outcome, and it would be a shame for you to sell the 914, especially after getting this far with it.


It wouldn't be so bad if the dollar was on par with the Euro but since the EU artificially inflates the Euro's value it makes the bill much larger.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 22 2009, 05:39 AM

So, I talked to household 6, for those of you that are former military you understand the call sign! We're gonna sell her or at least try.

I took her out this morning and washed her, she really is fun to drive! I still need to put her on the lift and figure out where the oil leak is coming from as the oil drips onto the exhaust and then burns and smokes.

Hopefully it is an easy fix, yeah right!

I did some checking on ebay.de, mobile.de and autoscout24.de and the average price for a 1.7 or 1.8 is about 5500 Euro and, the ones listed are not in very good shape. The couple of 2.0L ones listed went from 5k up to 15k Euro. I don't think the one for 5K was driveable.

So, here are some pictures of the car as it stands now; I will list some info on what has been done and what needs to be done then solicit some opinions on price.

EXTERNAL PICTURES
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MOTOR
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INTERIOR
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Here is what work has been done.
-Motor converted to 2.0; heads are machined 1.7 heads - motor was balanced
-All the tin was blasted and powdercoated
-Brake master cylinder and proportioning valve replaced along with some of the brake lines
-brake pads replaced
-windshield wiper motor and arms replaced, works beautifully unlike when I got her in Italy!
-windsheild washer unit replace with electric unit
-wheel studs replaced and Pedrini wheels installed
-fuel sending unit pulled and completely cleaned - now works, didn't before.
-new exhaust system, converted back to original system with heat exchanger
-Engman fuse panel installed
-seat belts converted to 3 point system
-right front strut and brake caliper replaced
-new clutch pressure plate

What still needs to be done
-replace side mirrors, drivers side mirror just kinda droops.
-replace windshield trim plan on ordering it from member vendor
-targa top rubber needs replacement - may or may not do
-window seals need relacement - may or may not do
-trailing arm bushings need replacement.

After talking to Christoph he thinks he may have someone interested in buying the car and he recommended 9800Euro as the price. He said that it is very hard to find a 914 that both passes the TuV AND has the historical certification which this car has. Thoughts from the collective group?


Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 22 2009, 05:55 AM

Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 22 2009, 06:41 AM

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 22 2009, 03:55 AM) *

Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.


Remember, you only need the historic inspection. Talk to your registration bubbas on exactly what you need, you don't need a complete TuV inspection.

Their are certain things that are allowable on a historic car to make it more driveable. I had a new steering wheel, electric washer system, Engman fuse box and three point seat belts. These changes enhance vehicle safety and drivability so are not a big deal.

You will run into trouble if you have a 5 lug set up and the original car was a 4 lug, they may also want you to have original rims (you can change them out after the inspection). Not sure what their thoughts are on the exhaust system but I had a stock system put back on the car. I think the big issue is that the car can't be modified so much that it loses its originality and now looks like a street rod versus a historicaly restored car.

If you want, I will ask Christoph if there are any RED flags that you need to avoid.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 25 2009, 08:19 AM

OK, so I put her on the lift today to find the oil leak. Well, I am pretty sure I have a slight main seal leak as a drop of oil accumulated on the bottom of the fan shroud. I am also getting a good amount from the pushrod tubes on the driver side once she has been moving and is warmed up. I didn't see a lot when she was running and up in the air but when I got home from a long drive you could see a good amount on the ground where the push tubes are located.

So, how easy is it to pull the tubes and change the seals without dropping the motor? Looks a little tight in there from where I was looking up. I know that it sounds sacrilegious but would using the Mittelmotor technique of just using high heat auto seal/calk in there do the trick? Looking for some suggestions because I don't think it will sell if she has a big oil leak problem. A small bit is fine but this isn't what I consider a small bit.

I also think I have an exhaust leak on the drivers side, I took a video and I'll try to figure out how to embed the video after I get back from cleaning my bike.

I did manage to fix the rear view mirror and side mirror thanks to a very informative write up on how to tighten up the side view mirror in the Lapawuli section. I also got the passenger side door handle working again but I don't think the key matches the lock because I can't lock the doors. I will see if there is a thread on this in the forum later.

Gustl has been very helpful in translating and making suggestions for the add to sell the car and I will post it to the 914freunde site later today. Will post some pictures and the video when I get back later.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 25 2009, 03:04 PM

Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 27 2009, 06:41 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 25 2009, 01:04 PM) *

Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.

--DD

Dave,
So I assume that I have to do this from under the car thus, put her on the lift, engage the gear and spin the rear tire to hit TDC then go for it. I am assuming that I will have to remove the valve train or will I be able to pull the tubes out enough to not need to do this?

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 14 2009, 02:33 PM

So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.

Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?

The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.

It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.

What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.

If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!

Posted by: ME733 Aug 16 2009, 06:32 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 7 2008, 12:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jul 6 2008, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.
PLEASE do not reuse that distributor GEAR..!!..it,s trashed.
I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Chris, Jake,
So if I stick to 94s instead of going to 96s I assume that I don't have to reset the deck height and can stick with the same pushrods? I planned on getting new bearings regardless but will stick with the Dellorto carbs I have now.

I set everything up and kept them in order labeling each part so I know where it goes back to with the exception of the case bolts. What about the distributor gear, salvageable with cleaning up or toss and get a new one? I know that this is the cheap way out but I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! screwy.gif

Thanks for all the help.


Posted by: Bleyseng Aug 17 2009, 01:51 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Aug 14 2009, 01:33 PM) *

So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.

Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?

The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.

It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.

What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.

If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!

rear crankcase seam leaks ususally are the rear main oil seal leaking past the flywheel sometimes the sealing surface on the flywheel is scored creating a leak.
I was just in Stuttgart to see the Porsche Museum!

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 17 2009, 10:53 AM

QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Aug 16 2009, 11:51 PM) *


rear crankcase seam leaks ususally are the rear main oil seal leaking past the flywheel sometimes the sealing surface on the flywheel is scored creating a leak.
I was just in Stuttgart to see the Porsche Museum!


OK, your not making me happy here! blink.gif At least I have a couple of new seals that are still good. I am definitely keeping the car so will have to pull it off the other site. I am working on setting up a 3 day that I can park the car in the autocraft lift bay and drop the motor, inspect and fix oil leaks, then put back in the car.

HEY CHRIS WANNA DO A 3 DAY IN STUTTGART? He, he, he...Gustl, how about you? Probably won't be until after Mid-September as I have an Ireland and UK trip planned in a couple of weeks.

So the new priorities on the car are as follows:
1. get windshield trim and fix leak
2. fix oil leak
3. start taking care of spots of rust that are bubbling the paint
4. replace rear trailing arms

Let the madness begin...again rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Sep 23 2009, 01:09 PM

OK, the new windshield is in and trim is on, shouldn't leak anymore. Took her out for a spin with my daughter and ran down the back way and towards Nurtingen before we turned around. I was checking to see if I was still having oil problems. Yep.

So, I got her back and looked under the car, drivers side of the engine mount had some oil drip off of it and the shift linkage had droplets of oil all along its length. I am thinking front main seal by the impeller? Anyone else have any thoughts? huh.gif huh.gif

Of course this means I will have to drop the motor to get to it. mad.gif Not sure when I am going to find the time though. I may have to take a week of leave to get it done.

Posted by: stephenaki Sep 28 2009, 01:10 PM

So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.

I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.

Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.

If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!

Posted by: stephenaki Sep 29 2009, 02:36 PM

2 hours my ass! mad.gif So I found a CV joint removal tool or 'triple' square socket driver at the autoshop. Came home got the CV bolts out fairly easily and separated the stub axles from the tranny. The harder part was being a contortionist to get the engine mount bolts out! The furniture cart wasn't quite in the right position so I will be replacing the cart but the motor is down and the rear on stands.

The axle stubs are preventing me from rolling the motor out the ass end but I will deal with that tomorrow. After two days and I would say about 6 hours of work I finally got the motor out. Now that I have done it I see how it could take only a couple of hours but when you're doing it for the first time, it takes a while.

Tomorrow's plan is to pull the motor out from under the car and start tearing down the front so I can replace the seal. Although I don't want to, I will have to separate the motor from the tranny to make sure the rear seal is OK as well. I have the seals, so I may as well replace them both and take care of all the oil leaks which I am pretty sure are from the seals. Will post some pictures tomorrow, hopefully.

Posted by: stephenaki Sep 30 2009, 12:20 PM

OK, had to pull the carbs in order to get the axle stubs clear and pull her out. Before I go into what I found, first question; best way to marry the tranny back up with the motor? Some help please! When I did my MG motor and tranny I had the motor on a stand and the tranny on a crane so it was easy, not quite as easy this time around.

So, taking one thing at a time, I pulled the impeller and took a look at the seal. Dry as a bone. hmm, but there is oil all over the oil pump. Well, I took off the housing and after careful inspection came to the conclusion that the oil pump was the culprit on the front end. The body wasn't leaking where it mated to the crankcase but I evidently didn't do a good job sealing the cover to the oil pump. I got the cover off and resealed it and threw a bead of high heat seal around the pump body just in case.

Put that back together and then went to the rear seal. There was a pool of oil looking at me when I pulled the flywheel off. I don't think I seated the seal properly but, in the interest of making sure, I pulled it out, cleaned up the area and put in a new seal instead of trying to seat the old one. This time I made sure it was seated properly.

I also replaced the O-ring in the flywheel and threw on a new crush washer. This brings us to the mating of the motor with the tranny. I just quite couldn't' get it right, is there a trick? Thoughts? Here are some pictures of the motor and my tranny mating method, i.e. put the tranny on a floor jack and try to roll it to the motor.

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Posted by: stugray Sep 30 2009, 10:40 PM

HA HA! when I read the title of this thread I immediately thought of what tripped me up on my first 914 engine removal..... The F&%ed up bolts they used for the CV joints.

Since then ( college days many years ago ), I could have the engine out of my 914 in less than 2 hours by myself & a floorjack & two jackstands.


The good old days ;-)

Stu


QUOTE(stephenaki @ Sep 28 2009, 01:10 PM) *

So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.

I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.

Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.

If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!


Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 30 2009, 11:02 PM

You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 1 2009, 01:14 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 30 2009, 09:02 PM) *

You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.

--DD


Thanks Dave, will try that, did you lube the input shaft up with a light coat of oil grease to help her slide in better?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 1 2009, 07:01 PM

I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 2 2009, 07:22 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 1 2009, 05:01 PM) *

I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.

--DD

Will go ahead and do that. I was looking up info and read through the tail end of the clutch adjustment and replacement how to on PP written by Wayne Dempsey. Based on what I read, the tranny was removed only and then re-installed with the motor still in the car. I am thinking this may be easier for me to do since I am one man team.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Would it be easier or harder to get the tranny married up with the motor already installed?

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 2 2009, 01:42 PM

Well, necessity being the mother of invention, I went out to tackle the tranny and motor marry up again. Cleaned the input shaft then put a light coat of grease on it to lube the pilot bushing. Lined up the jack then slowly brought it together. Dang, not quite lined up; back out the jack turn the input shaft just a tick then line up and try again. This time they seem to be mating well but I can't get them to slide together.

Hmm, maybe if I take a clamp and clamp both sides then slowly turn the clamp I can bring them together slowly without having to shove anything! So off I go in search of a clamp...damn, their all in storage! mad.gif Now what? Hmm, ya know that one bolt is pretty long...wonder if I can get it through the motor and tranny case and just tighten the bolt? Should do the same thing as using a clamp; brilliant! aktion035.gif

So, I thread the bolt through but it is a bit long so I take a wrench and thread the bolt through the wrench and then the tranny to the motor...BINGO! Start to tighten and she begins to slowly move together. Stop and check alignment then grab both sides and try to slide them together knowing that it ain't gonna happen...Well hot damn! Slide together like a a well greased........Yeah, well leave it at that. So, I got the motor put back together and began the process of re-mounting the motor to the car. Here is where I have a question.

I got the car and motor lined up and the tranny mounts were easy but I don't think I have the engine mounts quite right. According to the PP diagram:
Attached Image

I should have only one number 15; well, I got two on there. One facing cupside down and the other was on there cupside up and covering the rubber mount. This has caused a problem with getting the dang bolt through the mount, base upper and washer as it doesn't provide me much room to thread the nut onto the bolt.

Any reason I should leave the second base lower on there? Based on the diagrams I only need one base lower and it fits cupside down with the notch pointing inward towards the motor. I am hoping I can get the car back on the road either tomorrow or Sunday as I have to take my bike in to get the front wheel re-balanced and an oil change so need trans!

Now, once I get the mount installed properly, 21ft lbs of torque? That is what Haynes is showing but I am not totally sure and it is a royal PITA to get in there to torque the damn nut. Any help from the peanut gallery would be appreciated.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 2 2009, 11:01 PM

Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 3 2009, 01:25 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 2 2009, 09:01 PM) *

Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.

--DD

That's what I thought. Well, after meeting up with Johannes this afternoon I got the engine mounts installed properly, big difference. Tomorrow I am hoping to finish connecting everything up and getting on the road. Wish me luck.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 4 2009, 09:45 AM

Well, today didn't quite go as planned, I got the right side CV bolts back in but had to stop to go find the torque settings as I couldn't find them in my books. I may have been looking in the wrong place. Found them on the PP site though. So, I decided to tackle the exhaust bolt; cleaned up the bolt and the hole, slapped some loctite on it then reinstalled the bolt. About this time I start getting the chills. I've been fighting a virus all week.

Today is also supposed to be my daughters 4th birthday party; well, I went downhill fast and by the time my wife came home from getting some things for the party I was running a high fever and had about 5 blankets piled on me. Needless to say I did not make it to the party and my poor wife had to set everything up herself. It is not 1700 my time here in Deutschland and I have finally broken my fever and all I have left is a sore throat and headache. Being stupid, I am debating going back out to work on the car some more. blink.gif

Worst part is I have night shift starting tomorrow, Volkfest (local version of Octoberfest) on Thursday and then we ride to Prague on Friday. I don't have time to be sick! Done ranting now, I'm gonna go root around in the fridge and find something to eat. Then I think I will head out to the garage...No one said I was smart. confused24.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 10 2009, 12:10 PM

IT'S ALIVE!!!! Well, kinda, for the most part. Got everything put together with the exception of the motor lid. Started her up, damn that sucker is running rough! I know that I preset the carbs before installation last time and that the Boxer guys have no clue what to do with them so that isn't the problem.

I am pretty sure I need to set the idle and then balance both carbs but I need to get her up and running to operating temps first. So, the plan tomorrow is to put on the lid, start her up and go for a drive. Good way to check that I have no oil leaks as well. During the time I had her running I didn't see any oil developing anywhere so I think I finally got that fixed. The valves were adjusted prior to motor installation so I don't think this is a problem but, after I make some adjustments, we shall see.

I'll finish putting on the rear valance and motor lid tomorrow then after balancing the carbs we shall see how she does.

Quick question, still have a small exhaust leak just off the #1 cylinder I believe. This has been a problem, anyone got any suggestions on fixing this problem? The other side is fine and the #2 has no leaks just the one cylinder.a

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 15 2009, 11:51 AM

So, I've evidently I have bronchitis, great. Needless to say they tell me to go home and stay home. I can do that. Now, being the stubborn SOB and since I receive a lot of help getting the valves done and the car is running....time to synch the carbs!

First off, my damn archaic SU Carbs are easier to synch than these Delortos; not because they are complicated but because it is awkward to get to the fast idle screw.

So the car is running, so far no oil, I'm screwing around with the damn carbs, kinda smokey in here blink.gif must be that damn exhaust leak. Well, the passenger side carb is being a pain cause the screw is on the inside and I have to lean over the engine bay and do the contortionist thing to get to the screw. Well, need to take a break for a minute, lets see if I got any oil leaks....can you see where this is going??

HOLY SHIT! I got me a pool and it's under the number two cylinder! GODDAMNIT!!! headbang.gif headbang.gif headbang.gif

So, I turn off the car, jack it up, clean up the pool of oil and crawl under there with a flashlight. Definitely not from the push rod tubes, those are good, nothing pooling on the bottom of the impeller fan housing, nothing on the rear main (at least that is fixed). What the hell? There are droplets on the engine mount and the tin right below the number 2 cylinder. Hmm, is it possible that their is a leak between the head and the #2 cylinder?

Well, looks like I'll be dropping the motor...again. So any suggestions on what I should be looking for? I can see the seam between the crankcase and the cylinders but I don't see any oil there. I am pretty sure it is from the cylinder and head; I didn't 'lap' the head but used a gasket.

I will take a break tomorrow, doctors orders, then look at dropping the motor on Saturday. If anyone has any words of wisdom it would be appreciated. Just when I think I finally got things licked. I guess it's a good thing i'm a stubborn asshole, otherwise this car would have been at the bottom of a lake somewhere.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 17 2009, 12:57 PM

OK, so today was a rather dismal day in Germany, cold, wet and friggin hail! Needless to say, I loaded up the Pedrinis, Centerlines and winter tires and made a run for post. I dropped the wife and wee one off at an indoor playground called Sensapolis then did what I needed to do with the tires.

After returning home I put the new rubber on the car and decided to see if I could pinpoint the oil leak. I removed the connecting pipe that goes up into the engine tin and the heating air supply or warm air guides as some call them so I could better see where the oil was coming from.

Re-connect the carb linkage on the driver side so I can get her started and crank her up. Once she was warm and idling at about 1500 rpm I looked under the car. No oil. OK, lets finish what I was doing the other day and start synchronizing the carbs.

What I forgot to mention is that Boxter had run the vacuum lines from the carbs into a PVC valve and also run another tube off the oil filler assembly into a perforated plastic oil container. I had connected the lines to two tubes that were sticking out of the left side of the car as I assumed that this is where they went. Well, I disconnected the tubes and set it back up the way Boxter had it done.

So, she's running, I disconnect the driver's side carb linkage and begin synchronizing the carbs checking under the car every now and again. Finally, after about 20 minutes I start to see some oil form on the cooling fins of the #2 cylinder. I get a spit every now and again but nothing like the other day.

Check the pushrod tubes, dry, check the valve cover gasket, dry, check near the impeller, dry. #3 & 4 are also good to go. #1 cylinder fins show no oil forming on them. So my thoughts are,
1) the seal ring/gasket between the head and cylinder didn't seat right or I blew a that gasket
2) I don't have the head torqued down properly but I would think that this would affect both cylinders if this was the case
3) blowby created when I connected the tubes incorrectly from the carbs?

Either way, it is primarily a spitting leak and nothing major at this point so I will re-check torque in the morning and see what she does. I will also do some research on how the tubes are supposed to be hooked up. From the Delorto manual I am supposed to have the vacuum tube connected between the carbs. This would leave the, I assume overflow tube, from the oil filler assembly to connect somewhere else.

Once I recheck things and make sure they are set up properly I'll start her up again and see what happens. If she still leaks then I will order new seals for both cylinders, clean up the head, replace and reseal the head and cylinders. Will obviously have to recheck valve adjustment but at least I don't have to drop the motor. I need to double check to see if I already have the seals since I had acquired two seal sets; maybe i'll be lucky but that is usually not the case for me.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions this is the plan that I will proceed with. Eventually this car will be back on the road again permanently!




Posted by: hcdmueller Oct 17 2009, 01:51 PM

Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 17 2009, 02:07 PM

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Oct 17 2009, 11:51 AM) *

Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.


I sealed the case with the Curil K2; I have to check the pulley, I don't think I saw one for the cooling flap. In fact, I don't recall seeing a thermostat with cable that connects to the flap set up now that you mention it.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 18 2009, 10:52 AM

OK, after a slow start this morning, I watched Mongol instead of working on the car, good movie by the way, I headed out to tackle the teener again.

First, lets adjust the shift linkage. Boy what a PITA! Whoever designed the access panel and clamp assembly needs to be shot! Got it done but I am surprised I didn't throw out my back doing the different contortions to get to the bolt and nut on the clamp.

Next, pull the cylinder cover and check torque of nuts. Oh crap, I forgot, If I want to get some of the nuts I gotta take off the tin! Well, lets check the couple I can reach. Yup they were good so I am pretty sure head to cylinder torque is not the problem.

So, lets start her up and take her for a spin, so she's running, so far no oil. Get in, push in the clutch, put her in reverse.....GRIND GRIND GRIND! What the hell? How about 1st? GRIND GRIND GRIND! Well that's not good.

OK, I clearly need to adjust the clutch cable as I obviously didn't get it right when I reinstalled it. So after some checking here and there I found where I screwed up and made the adjustment. Lets try again, OH HONEY! "WHAT?!" Come out here and push the clutch in so I can make sure it is engaging!

Out comes the wife, she gives me the long suffering look, I get under the car, "now?" Yes dear, now. She pushes, still a bit loose; send the wife on her way and make some additional adjustments. This time I clear everything out of the way again, start her up, clutch....put in reverse...WOOHOO! piratenanner.gif Back her out of the garage!

Now, lets take her for a little spin shall we?! So I run her about 5 miles, get her up to about 50 and hit some stop and go traffic until I finally get back, about 10 minutes total time. Pull her in, leave her running and check under the car. All I got is an occasional drip with some splatter from the vibration of the motor. I still think she is coming from the #2 cylinder but it is very, very minor.

Well, before I re-attach the warm air guide and connecting tube, I plan to run her into work tomorrow which will be a good 15 mile trip that takes about 30 minutes on the back road. If I am getting just a minor drip then I am not going to worry about it. I'll just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get worse. Should get me through the winter. I do need to make sure the HEs and the defroster work but I'll have to tackle that next weekend as I have a trip to Garmisch this week for a conference. No, not taking the teener, riding the bike down cause I'm a glutton for punishment! Should be a cold ride.

I am due to move in June of next year, she just needs to behave until I get her back to the states, once I get her back and have all my tools out of storage she can act up again. I am sure I'll have questions as I dig into the defroster and heating system, the saga is not over, just on temporary leave. lol-2.gif

Time for a beer, especially since I am feeling much better and seem to be getting over the bronchitis. beer3.gif

Posted by: ILM914 Oct 18 2009, 06:20 PM

just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 19 2009, 01:29 AM

QUOTE(ILM914 @ Oct 18 2009, 04:20 PM) *

just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe

Nope, that center bolt was solid.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 19 2009, 01:56 AM

So what does one learn when they head out at 0645 and the temps are near freezing? Well, a working defroster is a must especially when there is fog and the water from the windshield washer freezes on the window!

Other than that, the car did well, there was some smoke as the little bit of oil hit the exhaust and burned off but she definitely does not like the cold when starting in the morning.

Since there is no choke I have to pump the gas and try to keep her RPMs up enough to warm the engine but this is not an option at O-dark thirty when you are trying not to disturb the neighbors.

Couple of questions for the group.

1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

Looking for thoughts and suggestions.

Posted by: Gint Oct 19 2009, 08:37 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 19 2009, 12:56 AM) *
1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

1. Forget it. Put a flat drip pan under the car in the garage and call it good. Until you can repair the leak that is. Couple of times a year I take mine to the car wash and blast off the underside and then bring it home and clean up by hand. This motor I have now probably won't be in the car that long anyway.

2. Never ending battle with a carb'd type IV. Twiddle the throttle a little to get it going. Then I just let it idle really low until I'm sure oil pressure is up and then bring it up to 1-1.3k and let it run for a minute. Then I take off and try to keep it under 2.5k or 3k (at the most) for the first 5 minutes of drive time.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 19 2009, 11:30 PM

QUOTE(Gint @ Oct 19 2009, 06:37 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 19 2009, 12:56 AM) *
1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

1. Forget it. Put a flat drip pan under the car in the garage and call it good. Until you can repair the leak that is. Couple of times a year I take mine to the car wash and blast off the underside and then bring it home and clean up by hand. This motor I have now probably won't be in the car that long anyway.

2. Never ending battle with a carb'd type IV. Twiddle the throttle a little to get it going. Then I just let it idle really low until I'm sure oil pressure is up and then bring it up to 1-1.3k and let it run for a minute. Then I take off and try to keep it under 2.5k or 3k (at the most) for the first 5 minutes of drive time.


I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. Still only a minor oil leak when I got home after running the autobahn, the bigger problem now is the fact that the number 2 cylinder has developed a major exhaust leak! Will have to tackle that when I get back from Garmisch. It's gonna be a coooooooooold ride down on the bike! My buddy and I push out at 0730ish, it is 0636 and my outside thermometer is showing 28 friggin degrees! This ought to be fun! blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 19 2009, 10:24 AM

Well, after a long Thanksgiving and some other things to do I finally got around to working on the exhaust. I ran the tap I got with the helicoil kit into the exhaust stud hole, no problems there. Then I put in the helicoil, hardest part? Getting the friggin tang to come out of the hole.

After putting the exhaust back on and starting to tighten down the nuts the one stud started to spin again. Damn! Since it is about 8 friggin degrees here in Deutschland and the outlets to the garage don't work, I called it quits for the day. Maybe I'll get back to it before Christmas, maybe not. We are going to Nurenburg tomorrow so I don't know when I'll have at it again. As it is, I also have to do some trouble shooting on my motorcycle as the start switch is not responding. Might be taking the bus into work for a bit.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 31 2009, 08:14 AM

Well, the weather was warm enough for me to tackle the teener again. So, I got back under her and tried to figure out the problem with the stud. Turns out the actual nut was stripped; crap. sad.gif

Off to the basement in search of a spare nut, lo and behold I found one! smile.gif Back up to the car, lets see now, carefully turn...yep she works. So it wasn't the stud that turned on me a few days back but the actual nut. So now lets tighten things down and see if we fixed the exhaust leak.

Start her up, crawl under, seems to be ok, I don't see any exhaust coming out of the #2 cylinder. OK, lets put the heat exchanger back together and take her out for a run shall we. driving.gif

So I get it all put together and run it about 2 miles, she is shifting well and I don't smell any smoke when I stop. Get her back to the garage, pull her in and crawl under and have a look...Damn! Still leaking exhaust headbang.gif ! OK, I really need to take it into the shop and get it up on the lift to fix this problem and it will entail putting in new gaskets. I'm not gonna get it done here so lets see if the blower for the defroster and heater is at least working.

Well, I pulled the red lever, and pushed the controls over but it didn't feel like any air was coming from the defroster vent. Hmm, guess I'll need to trouble shoot that as well. Anyone got any recommendations on troubleshooting the blower system?

For now, she is driveable, I will just have to leave the windows cracked. Considering my bike needs a new battery I will be taking the Teener into work this week. The weather is also turning to slush which does not make a good motorcycle riding experience! blink.gif I will just need to make sure I take her to a car wash each week and hose the underside down real well with the chemicals on the road to prevent icing.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 12 2010, 01:15 AM

So, it's been snowing here since last Friday and only stops to take a breather. We have at least 18 inches if not more and I have been driving the teener, now heat, windows cracked so the windshield doesn't fog up.

As mentioned earlier, the sucker wsa running fast because the cable was not quite right. I adjusted it the other day but it seems as if the pedal wasn't returning all the way back up; it was just shy about a mm or two.

Anyway, I drive to work today, when you get off the autobahn to go to Patch Barracks the exit has a light at the end, if you turn right you head downtown to Vaihingen. If you turn left, you head to Patch and a turn off onto Pascal strasse that takes you to Boeblingen; right in front of you is a big Audi and VW dealership.

As I slow and stop, the car is idling high again. OK, put it in neutral, engage the E-brake, now, reach down pull the gas pedal back a bit and voila! Idle goes down. Clearly I need to see what is going on there.

Light turns green and we creep up some more until there is only one car in front of me when the light turns red again. So, lets do the same thing...OOOOOPS! I pulled just a bit too hard and the pedal popped loose! headbang.gif Well, this isn't good blink.gif OK, don't panic, try to put the pedal where it belongs and when the light turns green, pull straight into the car dealership to figure out what the hell just happened.

Well, I got her there, barely and cut the motor. I had my flashlight with me because I had to re-install the damn rear view mirror again this morning so I took a look down there. Well whatdya know, the pedal is a ball joint style set up; I would know this if I had done more work down there. At least thats a releive, it souldn't be too hard to fix. Well after a couple of tries, I got it lined up properly, pushed all the way down till it stopped moving and slapped the shit out of of it to make it go back into the socket! smash.gif It worked! cheer.gif

So, start her back up and head to work. Hmm, the idle seems to have resolved itself as well idea.gif Wonder if she just needed a mild beating? We will see if it truly resolved itself when I head home today.

Just thought I would share yet another misadventure of the yellow bomber biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 23 2010, 04:20 AM

OK, phase 2 in this money pit and I need some help from the experts on this forum.

First, cylinder heads.

I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.

Transmission.

I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?

Finally, fuel injection.

Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?

I think the first project will be the tranny conversion then I will make a determination of what to tackle next depending on feedback to my other two questions.


Posted by: Racer Chris Jan 23 2010, 05:58 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 23 2010, 05:20 AM) *

I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.

What do you mean "machined for a 2.0"? Be more specific.
If the displacement is still 1.7 and the cam is near stock, stick with the 1.7 heads.
QUOTE
I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?

You need the later engine support crossbar along with the later center and outer mounts. You need the complete shift linkage and shift lever. You need a firewall bushing made for the conversion, since the rod diameters are different in that location.
QUOTE
Finally, fuel injection.
Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?

If you have 2.0 heads you need to use the 2.0 FI runners since the bolt pattern is different. Then you also need the 2.0 plenum because the runners are larger diameter. Etc.
If the displacement is only 1.7 don't change the heads, and stick with 1.7 injection.
If the displacement is 1.9 or more, switch to the 2.0 heads and go with the 2.0 injection.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 23 2010, 06:08 AM

Chris,
Thanks for the info; as for the heads, from what I understand, they were machined to accept the larger cylinder and pistons but no other changes were made to either of the valves.

The cam is the stock original cam for the 1.7 motor; the crank and pistons are 2.0 and balanced.

Maybe the option is to just replace the existing carbs with the 1.7 FI and then maybe rebuild the existing tranny. #1 tends to be a bit tricky and #5 has been giving me some problems as of late.

I am heading over to a local guy here near Stuttgart that caries used 914 parts to see what he has. If I can find the side shift tranny et al. for a reasonable price I may pick it up.

The larger question is when to start; I am still trying to figure out where the Army is sending me next and have a job lined up to stay here in Stuttgart but that may change.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 7 2010, 05:54 AM

In an effort to get the car running SMOOTHLY I decided to rebuild the pedal cluster as that was causing some issues with the motor running at high rpms.

I used Erics write up to do the job and all was well until today; I had not removed the brake light indicator switch when I initially disassembled the cluster so I took it off this morning. Boy was that sucker dirty! OK, time to clean it up; the goal was to get the rebuilt cluster in today and everything adjusted so I would have the car this coming week. It's supposed to snow again so I can't ride the bike in.

Well, some days your the hammer and some days your the nail. I was the nail today mad.gif ...again. My wife pointed out that I was usually the nail when it came to this car. I had dropped the switch in the sink and the metal tail on the bottom of the switch broke right off! Dangit!

Well, nothing I can do about, so I ordered a new switch, they ain't cheap, and went out to the garage and cleaned the area up in preparation for the eventual installation of the cluster. Just another day in my ongoing saga with this car, eventually the entire car will be brand new! Guess I'll go work on my MBA paper the rest of the day.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2010, 07:50 AM

OK, so I got in the brake light indicator switch. Will get that installed along with the pedal cluster this weekend I hope. I was in Vicenza all last week so wasn't able to get to it. Now, next question for the brain trust, Fuel Injection.

I have a line on a 1.7 FI system but I have some questions since my main experience is with carbs and British vehicles that also ran carbs.

Distributor. I am pretty sure I have the original dizzy but the vacuum advance is no longer present since it was transferred to carbs and a petronix ignitor was dropped in. So, I understand that I will need the vacuum advance component and a set of 'trigger' points. Will the trigger points work with the petronix or do I need to convert back to the old points set up to run the FI?

What I want is to understand what I will need and make sure I have all the components before I replace the carbs for the FI system. Is there a write up anywhere on how the FI system works and how to convert back to the old system?


Posted by: Mr Pharmacist Mar 16 2010, 09:17 AM

I'm afraid i cant help you with the petronix question (though i look forward to hearing the answer as i was wondering the same myself)

This is a good article for starters on the FI system:

http://www.rennlist.com/techarticles/djetronicfuel.htm

Posted by: kwales Mar 16 2010, 09:17 AM

The distributor runs the igniton system in the top of the dizzy, and the trigger points in the bottom of the dizzy. The ignition system is advanced/retarded by centripital weights and vaccuum, and needs to be in place for the fuel injection. The trigger points control the injection of fuel, and are not connected to the advance/retard mechanism required by the ignition system. They open and close as the dizzy shaft rotates to squirt fuel.

The trigger points control the squirts of fuel and they are not timed to squirt precisely as the valves open and close, they merely squirt into the intake so that the fuel is peresent when the intake valve opens.

Attached is a schematic of the 1.7 EFI parts and sensors. You will need all the stuff in the schematic the black center manifold and grey manifold pipes, the air cleaner and hoses, and a high pressure fuel pump. Probably some more stuff but that is a quick list.

Hope this helps.

Ken


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Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2010, 10:30 AM

QUOTE(kwales @ Mar 16 2010, 07:17 AM) *

Hope this helps.

Ken


Ken,
Thanks, it does help. Hopefully someone has an answer on the petronix question of course, I may just have to figure it out once I get all the parts and pieces in.


Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2010, 10:31 AM

QUOTE(Mr Pharmacist @ Mar 16 2010, 07:17 AM) *

I'm afraid i cant help you with the petronix question (though i look forward to hearing the answer as i was wondering the same myself)

This is a good article for starters on the FI system:

http://www.rennlist.com/techarticles/djetronicfuel.htm


I found the article earlier doing a google search, should definitely come in handy while I wrap my head around the FI system, thanks.

Posted by: underthetire Mar 16 2010, 10:35 AM

Sounds like you have a 009 or 050 dizzy, you will need the stock one with the injector trigger points at the bottom of the can. The pertronix will work very well with the D-jet, since the Djet does not use that for the FI.


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Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2010, 12:12 PM

QUOTE(underthetire @ Mar 16 2010, 08:35 AM) *

Sounds like you have a 009 or 050 dizzy, you will need the stock one with the injector trigger points at the bottom of the can. The pertronix will work very well with the D-jet, since the Djet does not use that for the FI.


hmm, that doesn't look anything like the dizzy currently on the car!

Posted by: kwales Mar 16 2010, 12:22 PM

Here's a 1.7 dizzy.

It has a tall can to hold the trigger points in the bottom and the igniton stuff in the top.

Pertronix will work great. But, the fuel injection requires a special ignition curve to work properly and that is why the ignition parts include the pivoting weights 33 and vacuum can 13.


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Posted by: stephenaki Mar 17 2010, 02:45 AM

QUOTE(kwales @ Mar 16 2010, 10:22 AM) *

Here's a 1.7 dizzy.

It has a tall can to hold the trigger points in the bottom and the igniton stuff in the top.

Pertronix will work great. But, the fuel injection requires a special ignition curve to work properly and that is why the ignition parts include the pivoting weights 33 and vacuum can 13.


Thanks.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 21 2010, 11:49 AM

Well, after procrastinating and some other things like schoolwork and regular work, I finally got off my ass and put the pedal cluster back in the car. I'm not sure which was the bigger PIA taking it out or putting it back in. mad.gif

I still need to adjust clutch play and the accelerator cable then make sure the brakes are good to go; will do that next weekend. I should have had this done yesterday but I decided to go riding in the Schwarzwald (black forest) with some other buddies of mine. We did about 200 miles through the area and hit everything from 60 degree temps to 35 degrees and 4 feet of snow still on the sides of the road. blink.gif

My back end tried to highside me on a decent down a hairpin; I think she hit some black ice. Had to throw my food down like I was dirt trackin to keep from going down. Scared the bejeebus out of me! yikes.gif

Next project, fix the damn exhaust leak!!!! Then make sure the heater is working for the next winter.


Posted by: rick 918-S Mar 21 2010, 05:23 PM

Your car has come along way! smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 27 2010, 03:51 AM

OK, friggin Murphy strikes again!! headbang.gif headbang.gif

So, get the initial clutch cable adjustment done, put the pedal board back in, adjust the throttle cable, now lets start her.

She's been sitting for a bit but she starts, gotta rev her to warm her up but she is running. So, as I sit there suddenly there is a loud BANG!!! WTF.gif WTF.gif

And she sounds very, very strange, not good, not good at all. OK, look around the underside, in the engine bay...still WTF.gif So, off I go to get the camera and record the sound more than anything to post for insight from the collective expertise of the group. Well after a bit of recording I go back to the engine bay, hey, what the hell? The spot marked 2 on the tin is missing something, yup the damn #2 plug basically blew out of the motor!

OK, maybe it shook itself loose, lets see if we can put her back in, did I mention trying to put a plug back into a cramped space is a PIA? So I get it started, and start to tighten it, so far so good....damn! Yep, threads are stripped.

Before I get into my options, some history, all the plugs are the same size except the #2 plug, it is larger. I was under the assumption that the PO stripped it before and hand it re-threaded to a larger plug, is this the case or is this the way it is supposed to be?

So now, what are my options? Take the head in and get it machined and fixed to allow a new plug or is it toast and I need to get new heads entirely? Thoughts from the collective? My German neighbor suggested dynamite... blink.gif lol-2.gif lol-2.gif

Posted by: tat2dphreak Mar 27 2010, 06:58 AM

depends... I'd have a machinist check it out and see if it can be properly repaired. if not, then I'd say new heads are in your future. sounds like it may have been time-serted once already, may not be wise to do it again

Posted by: rick 918-S Mar 27 2010, 07:24 AM

A good machinist can weld and redrill and tap the hole to the correct size plug.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 27 2010, 09:40 AM

Well gents, thanks. After I got over the initial shock I began to investigate what you were talking about. I will drop the motor tomorrow so I can pull the head and take it over to a machinist who is almost literally next door to me. Hopefully it can be saved. The worst part is some corrosion and rust is forming because I haven't been able to clean her from my rides to work this winter! I'm gonna have to figure something to get all the crap cleaned up. Hopefully this is just another minor bump on the road to restoration.

Annoying but fixable. dry.gif

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Mar 27 2010, 10:29 AM

I've use a helicoil to fix stripped spark plug holes and it worked fine. Lasted 200,000miles in a type I.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 4 2010, 02:04 AM

OK, I got the car up, motor down, still trying to get the motor past the CV joints. Quick question; can I remove the joints to replace the boot and flange without pulling the entire axle assembly out? I can't find anything that mentions this just info on removing it after the whole assembly is out.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 4 2010, 10:15 AM

OK, got the motor out and the head off. Initial inspection shows no damage to the cylinders, pistons or head itself. Looks like I will just need to have the spark plug hole fixed. I will take it to the machinist on Tuesday. In the meantime, I have some other things that I will work on while the motor is out.

Posted by: stephenaki May 6 2010, 05:41 AM

Well, after dropping off the cylinder head with a shop that specializes in aluminum and cylinder heads, I headed off to Vicenza, Italy. I got back yesterday and picked up the head and the problem with the sparkplug is now resolved. These guys filled in the hole and then re-drilled and threaded it to the correct size.

Now I just have to re-assemble the head, put it back on the motor, re-install everything, adjust valves and I should be back in business. Hopefully this weekend cause I won't have much time after this weekend with some trips planned to Africa and North Carolina the rest of this month.

Posted by: stephenaki May 10 2010, 02:26 AM

Axles are re-assembled and waiting to be put in, head is cleaned up and ready for re-install.

Question, will it be an issue if I put in the motor first then install the axles? It would be much easier to get the motor under the car and into place without the axles installed but I am sure if it will cause a problem when I have to put the axles back in or not. Maybe a noob question dry.gif , got that, any helpl is appreciated. biggrin.gif

Posted by: FourBlades May 10 2010, 05:51 AM

Not that I am an expert or anything, but I put my engine in first and then put
the axles in later. I had some issues fitting them around my exhaust so you
may want to check the order of those two.

John

Posted by: jt914-6 May 10 2010, 07:50 AM

When putting together my conversion six, I had put the eng./tranny up into the car with no axles attached. I went ahead and installed the headers only to find out that the axles wouldn't go on with the headers on. Had to remove the headers to get the axles in.....It's easy to get ahead of yourself at times.....

Posted by: stephenaki May 10 2010, 10:37 AM

John, JT, thanks. I will probably try to put the engine in first. It is a royal pain go get the motor in and out with the axles hanging down especially given the fact that I am tool and equipment challenged here in Deutchland. Will do that after my myriad travel adventures. blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki May 31 2010, 10:00 AM

Well ladies and gentlemen, after a couple of business trips I am now back and began working on the car again. I'll post some pictures later but I have the motor back in and will tackle the valve timing with other things tomorrow after work.

So, after I got the motor in and the axles hooked back up I decided to call it quits for today so I could get some dinner and do some other things. As I began to push the car back out of the garage in order to make room to get my bike back in, it wasn't rolling smoothly. WTF.gif

It would roll about an inch or two, stick then, after rocking it a bit, roll back some more. I could hear the piston's building up compression but that shouldn't affect it rolling in neutral should it?

Anyone have any idea what it is doing this? It feels like trying to turn the flywheel, you hit that sticking point where the piston has built up compression in the cylinder then it gives.

Would an improperly assembled CV joint do this? I am pretty sure I assembled all joints properly, I checked and rechecked before I put the joints and axles back together.

Thoughts?

Posted by: ArtechnikA May 31 2010, 10:25 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ May 31 2010, 12:00 PM) *

...I could hear the piston's building up compression but that shouldn't affect it rolling in neutral should it?

Would an improperly assembled CV joint do this? I am pretty sure I assembled all joints properly, I checked and rechecked before I put the joints and axles back together.

CV's assembled wrong give you instant feedback, as they are locked in place and offer no angular or annular misalignment. If they moved, you're OK.

If you can feel compression as you roll, the transmission is -not- in neutral...

Posted by: stephenaki May 31 2010, 10:38 AM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ May 31 2010, 08:25 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ May 31 2010, 12:00 PM) *

...I could hear the piston's building up compression but that shouldn't affect it rolling in neutral should it?

Would an improperly assembled CV joint do this? I am pretty sure I assembled all joints properly, I checked and rechecked before I put the joints and axles back together.

CV's assembled wrong give yo instant feedback, as they are locked in place and offer no rotational or annular misalignment. If they moved. you're OK.

If you can feel compression as you roll, the transmission is -not- in neutral...


I was thinking that might be an issue, I must have somehow managed to put her in gear when I disassembled the shift rod. I will check tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback; I'm just happy I didn't dork up the CV joints.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 2 2010, 11:10 AM

I can see the finish line! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

I didn't get a chance to work on it last night; my new job actually has me doing stuff so I am back to the 12+ hour days that I was running before I got to Europe.

Nevertheless, I skated out relatively early and did some work for about an hour. Sure enough, I had the sucker in gear, amazing how smoothly she rolls when you take it out of gear! I am hoping that I can have everything but the exhaust put on by Friday.

I may post some questions on electrical connections, my weakest area, but I am going to try to figure it out first before I ask the question! If all goes well, I'll be taking her for a spin on Saturday and give her a good wash down! driving.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 5 2010, 10:09 AM

Well, today has been a looooooooong day. First things first, IT'S ALIVE!!!! piratenanner.gif
I got the muffler on this morning, hooked up the battery, checked things over and fired her up. WOOHOO! Hey why isn't the tach moving? WTF.gif hmmm, let me re-connect the 'white' wire that I and some other people thought was to the FI system. Yup, that was it, go figure. confused24.gif

So, I took her out for a spin and wash. Spitting oil from the crankcase at the #2 cylinder push tubes. Need to fix that. Got her back, let her cool down and sealed the living shit out of the pushrod tubes! I'll crank her up again tomorrow to see if that helped fix the oil problem. I had to do this last time as well. So here are some pictures that I am finally getting around to posting. Still more work needs to be done but as long as she is running and I get her registered, I can take my time on the minutia stuff.

Almost ready; this would be the offending Zylinder Kopf
IPB Image

The problem hole, the guys did a good job of fixing this.
IPB Image

OK, time to put her back in!
IPB Image

Thar she goes!!
IPB Image

OH! This is why you put the axles on BEFORE you mount the motor!
IPB Image

Wound up having to pull the exhaust off to get the axle back in. I re-adjusted the throttle cable as I think it was a bit tight and not letting the mechanism fully return. I will check it again tomorrow to make sure she isn't idling too high. Also need to make sure I have the clutch adjusted properly, she seems to be shifting fairly smoothly but I want to make absolutely sure. Hope to get her registered on Monday then I can relax for at least another year. lol-2.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 8 2010, 04:42 AM

Rats! Failed inspection, kinda thought I might but I had hope! Yeah, I know, hope is not a method. Three problems that I have to fix, two just recently manifested themselves. blink.gif

1) Oil leak, push tubes are not the issue nor is the cylinder head cover and gasket. Will have to do more digging to find out where the oil is coming from.

2) Brakes are spongy and don't fully lock the wheels. This is the bigger concern. I will check fluid levels and then bleed them; I think maybe air is still in the lines?

3) E-Brake needs adjustment, it doesn't fully engage especially on the right hand side.

Unfortunately, I can't tackle these issues now as I head to Italy in the morning. It will have to wait until I get back. I think I will tackle the braking problem first as those issues are easier to resolve. Then I will dig into where the oil is seeping from. I'll get some pictures of the problem area when I get back and throw them up for the collective group to opine upon. Until then, I'm just gonna have to put it to the back of my thoughts and enjoy the motorcycle ride to Italy! biker.gif

I'll be running down the Fern Pass then Timmelsjoch on the way down and running up North through Stelvio on the return. Also plan on taking a weekend trip over to Bohinj, Slovenia, this should be fun! shades.gif

Posted by: tradisrad Jun 8 2010, 07:28 AM

for your brake issue try some Porterfield pads. what side is the oil leak coming form? The pressure sender can be a source of a hidden leak.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 8 2010, 09:48 AM

QUOTE(tradisrad @ Jun 8 2010, 05:28 AM) *

for your brake issue try some Porterfield pads. what side is the oil leak coming form? The pressure sender can be a source of a hidden leak.


Pads are new but I don't know the manufacturer, I'll inspect them. The oil leak is on the driver side. I thought it was originally coming out of the pushrod tubes but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'll post pictures and maybe a short vid on what she looks like when I get back.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Jun 8 2010, 09:59 AM

One of the thermostat bellows bolts goes straight through the case, and could be leaking.

Zach

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 18 2010, 01:20 AM

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 8 2010, 07:59 AM) *

One of the thermostat bellows bolts goes straight through the case, and could be leaking.

Zach

That has been mentioned before and I will give it a check. I had hoped to work on the brakes this weekend but AAFES is out of DOT 4 brake fluid. I can get it on the economy but, instead of paying say $6 for a gallon of DOT 4 at AAFES, I would have to pay almost 30 Euro, about $35 USD for the same amount on the economy. barf.gif I think I'll wait till they get more fluid in at AAFES.

Needless to say, I guess I'll tackle the oil issue this weekend; need to get the bike into the shop as well to get a damage estimate done. Laid her down on the backside of a mountain in Italy on the trip down last week. Minor damage to me and the bike. blink.gif

Wish me luck tracking the oil problem down.

Posted by: arkitect Jun 18 2010, 11:04 AM

Hopefully not much damage to either you or the bike.... Any picts of your bike trip?

Dave

Posted by: KELTY360 Jun 18 2010, 11:19 AM

You're amazing Steve. This has been a long running saga filled with drama, suspense, heartbreak, euphoria, perseverance and humor. Just one question:

When will the movie version be released? popcorn[1].gif

Good luck getting to the finish line. You deserve some quality time with that 914. driving.gif


Posted by: stephenaki Jun 19 2010, 10:31 AM

QUOTE(arkitect @ Jun 18 2010, 09:04 AM) *

Hopefully not much damage to either you or the bike.... Any picts of your bike trip?

Dave

I am trying to get my act together and do up a ride report; I'll post the link when I get it done. I have some pretty good pictures of the trip to Italy and my side trip to Slovenia.

Been raining all day today so haven't done much with the car; had to focus on schoolwork instead. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny...yeah right. It's June and when I walked outside this morning I could see my breath. I just love Germany weather. slap.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2010, 06:12 AM

OK, I got out and started the car, of course she never does the leak thing when you just start it. So, I took it out for a 5 minute drive and got her good and warmed up. I am trying to load the vid I took to Youtube but they are not cooperating at the moment. Here are the pictures I took; as soon as I can upload the vid I will. I think I know where one of the leaks is coming from.

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Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2010, 06:13 AM

Wouldn't let me upload more than two pictures; here are some more.
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Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2010, 06:14 AM

last picture.
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Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2010, 06:19 AM

Obviously, or at least in my mind, the oil screen cover area is leaking; easy fix. I think the shift mechanism towards the back may need some re-sealing as well.

The harder nut to crack is where the oil is coming from on the cylinder head. I know it isn't the push tubes, maybe the gasket isn't sealing right and letting some oil through?

I'll let the car cool down and then do some maintenance on what I think are obvious areas of leakage. Hopefully I can load up the video and post the link here soon.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2010, 06:34 AM

Well, finally got the video uploaded; whether it helps or not I am not sure. Those of you who have way more experience and training than I may be able to pinpoint the suspected areas that are leaking.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rR-erltXqUQ

Not sure it will help much, kinda crappy, es tut mir leid.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 26 2010, 08:03 AM

Well, I took the teener to the autocraft shop yesterday and lo and behold...they have a power bleeder! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Talk about making it a lot easier! So, after bleeding, world of difference! No more sponginess. Still got oil though and I am pretty sure I know where it is coming from transmission wise.

This morning I tackled the emergency brake. Got the passenger side to work however, a caliper rebuild is in my future. I won't go into detail but Eric Shea's write up was quite helpful. beerchug.gif

So here is the plan; I parked it in front of the inspection station. First thing Monday morning I will have her checked and hopefully pass. Since she doesn't really start to spit oil until she is nice and warm there should be no issues. Once it passes and I get it re-registered, I will bring her home and drop the motor...again.

From there I plan to completely tear her down and see if I can find where the oil is coming from. Then, clean everything up and re-assemble. I will have to replace some of the transmission gaskets so will do that as well. I don't plan on rebuilding the trans as it has caused me no problems. I want to make sure that their is not a single leak ANYWHERE in this car!!!

On another note, the engine lid bracket will have to get replaced as it is cracked, had it welded today but it didn't hold. Will work on that while I have the motor out. Also took the time to trace the wire from the electronic trunk release to find out why she wasn't working. Well, when you run a wire to ground and another wire just to the switch, you're kinda missing that important element known as...ELECTRICAL POWER! headbang.gif headbang.gif No, I didn't put it together; I'll work on that as well.

Finally, I was wondering why the defroster got no air, thought maybe the blower was bad. Still don't know if this is the case but, if there is a big hole where the air goes and then a hose that isn't connected to anything it kinda defeats the purpose of having heat exchangers. Yep rolleyes.gif gonna fix that as well. I love this car...really I do! smoke.gif

Of course, I will get everything torn down but will then have to wait until September to work on putting it back together since I'll be in Africa the entire month of August. Oh well, it is what it is. Wish me luck on Monday!

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 28 2010, 10:05 AM

WOOHOO!! Passed inspection this morning! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Of course, it helps that I know the guy fairly well and help him add to his military patch collection biggrin.gif

So, the car is back in the garage, time to drop the motor and tear her back down again. Quick question; I read through Eric's brake rebuild thread and I have rebuilt brakes before however, the parts that I really need are not in the kit.

The outside adjuster screw and clip along with the inside screw in metal cap thingy are what I need for the rear brakes. How do I or can I get these parts? confused24.gif

Push come to shove, I'll send em off to Eric but I would prefer to do the job myself, you don't learn by having someone else do it. Anyone?

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 3 2010, 11:52 AM

And it begins...again. Phase one of operation, 'find the F@#$%^@ oil leak' has commenced.

Looks purty don't she? Too bad it won't stay that way.
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Hey look! I got my ass in the air! WOOHOO!
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Phase one done, tear down starts next.
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Couple of things that occurred during the drop. 3 exhaust studs came out, not stripped just unscrewed on me and the inside nut that holds the gear shift rod support bracket was stripped. I fiddled with it for an hour before I could get the actual bolt to unscrew out of the transmission. Guess I gotta fix that one.

Other than it being hot as hell here in Germany, we went from cold to damn near a heat wave blowtorch.gif It was fairly uneventful. I am unfortunately getting good at this. blink.gif

I'll start initial tear down tomorrow and start trying to see if I can find out where the oil has been coming from. Unfortunately, I probably wont' start re-assembly until September as it looks like I'll be spending a month in Africa starting the end of July. Oh well, things happen, no sense getting uptight about it. I'm in no rush, want to make sure I find the problem and fix it once and for all. Wish me luck. shades.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 13 2010, 12:02 AM

Well, things haven't progressed much on my end dry.gif , have had a slew of other things to work on that have precluded me from doing anything on the motor.

I've also been in a battle with Christoph over money. Long story short, the German equivalent of the IRS audited his books and caught a discrepancy. He is now saying I still owe him about 2000 Euros. I have been going round and round with him and I am hoping that this last set of emails has resolved the issue. He stated that the 2000 Euros is for work done from July to December of 2009. Uhh, I picked the car up on 17 July and it has never been back to his shop! blink.gif

I have the last invoice he sent me which was for all the work done up to the point I got the car back and I began checking numbers. He needs to fire his accountant! Not sure what he uses to to track his work expenses but what he billed me and what is actually reflected on the invoice don't match. I am thinking his people made a serious clerical error somewhere but I know I don't owe him any more money! hissyfit.gif Hopefully I can resolve this soon as I take off for Africa for a month here shortly. I can never seem to catch a break with this car headbang.gif


Posted by: Bleyseng Jul 13 2010, 06:43 AM

look for a oil leak on top of the engine as when it is blown out both bottom sides the fan is sucking oil on top usually and blowing it across the cylinders down across the pushrod tubes. Could be the oil filler tower gasket, the oil pressure sender...when you pull it apart look inside to see if its oily wet behind the fan housing on the case.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 14 2010, 02:55 AM

QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Jul 13 2010, 04:43 AM) *

look for a oil leak on top of the engine as when it is blown out both bottom sides the fan is sucking oil on top usually and blowing it across the cylinders down across the pushrod tubes. Could be the oil filler tower gasket, the oil pressure sender...when you pull it apart look inside to see if its oily wet behind the fan housing on the case.

Thanks, will check that as I start the tear down.

Posted by: hcdmueller Jul 14 2010, 12:35 PM

Don't feel bad about not having time to get the work done. I am sitting in Afghanistan again and my engine is still apart in my basement. I have put it together twice and had to tear it down to fix problems that I caused during assembly. Hopefully next year is the year for touring the EU in my 914. Do you still need the Historic plates for yours? I will send you an email when I get back about the inspection stuff.

Chris

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 1 2010, 09:12 AM

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 14 2010, 10:35 AM) *

Don't feel bad about not having time to get the work done. I am sitting in Afghanistan again and my engine is still apart in my basement. I have put it together twice and had to tear it down to fix problems that I caused during assembly. Hopefully next year is the year for touring the EU in my 914. Do you still need the Historic plates for yours? I will send you an email when I get back about the inspection stuff.

Chris


Hey Chris, I did get the historic plate so I am good to go, let me know when you're ready and I'll shoot you the info on the process, fairly straight forward.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 1 2010, 09:19 AM

Well, after a slew of other things and finally getting in all the parts save one which I will get locally, I am hoping to start the motor tear down this weekend.

The money issue with Christoph got resolved as the guys doing the book keeping were not using the correct numbers. Long story but I did quite a bit of numbers crunching and historical research on past documents and pointed out the mistakes they made.

So, the bike is back up and running, the ABS sensor on the van is fixed and I don't have any more trips to Africa until December. piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Time to get started...again! rolleyes.gif

The goal is to get the whole thing done before the end of October. Whether that happens or not we will see but I want it up and running so I can pull the wheels off the bike as I intend to get them powder coated black this winter. Tired of @#$%^ with the chrome! Only chrome I want is on the air cleaners and the auxiliary lights! Thinking of wrapping the exhaust is some special cloth or getting them powder coated as well.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 2 2010, 09:15 AM

Ok, after spending the morning making a castle out of cardboard and toilet paper roll tubes I finally got around to tearing the motor down. After separating the trans from the motor I pulled the clutch and flywheel and got quite a bit of oil, see picture.
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So, is this normal or excessive? I had some oil leakage coming out of the area where the tranny and motor mated so I am of the thought that this is one of the oil leaks.

The oil cooler had not oil residue where the rubber gaskets were mounted so that is not the issue on the front. I will hopefully get around to breaking the motor down the rest of the way tomorrow. Hopefully I will find where the leak is from the front when I do this.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 17 2010, 05:58 AM

OK, so remember the plan I had to get the motor done by the end of October? av-943.gif av-943.gif Yeah....about that. blink.gif

So, after a trip to San Antonio to deal with an ailing father, I am back in Germany and getting ready to tackle the motor rebuild again. Before I left I had completed cleaning most of the case up and had re-sealed and assembled the case.

I need to finish some final cleaning on the #1 cylinder area of the case before I call that complete. Once that is done I will move to the cleaning of the cylinders and pistons then installment of front and rear seals as well as re-checking end-play.

I am hoping that I can get the motor finished up and re-assembled during the long Thanksgiving weekend. I still need to tackle the transmission though so getting the car on the road will take a bit. Guess I'm riding the bike in the cold again this winter! Good think I got new rubber, brake pads and a new clutch put in!

Now, I need to re-do the mounting brackets for the engine lid as the driver's side L-bracket is cracked. I am thinking the best bet remove both old brackets and put in two new ones, preferably ones I bolt in. Anyone have any recommendations?

I also need to re-install new heater cable wires and check that the existing blower is actually working. It seems that I am never done with this thing but then I'm preaching to the choir on this forum. rolleyes.gif Let the madness continue! screwy.gif

Posted by: SGB Nov 17 2010, 09:22 AM

Good to know you are still at it.

Um, cycling is good for you anyway....
smile.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 17 2010, 01:42 PM

QUOTE(SGB @ Nov 17 2010, 07:22 AM) *

Good to know you are still at it.

Um, cycling is good for you anyway....
smile.gif

cycling? Are you on crack?! happy11.gif Unless it's got a motor, I ain't interested! I gotta friggin run in the cold as it is cause the Army says I have too, I ain't gonna cycle to work!!!

I did run into a slight problem this evening, finished cleaning the last cylinder area and started to re-install the oil strainer, oil drain plug and oil sump plate. Well, the friggin oil sump plate nuts stripped out the hole in the case...dangit! headbang.gif

Such is my luck. Anyone replace those with studs instead of re-tapping the dang things?

Posted by: RJMII Nov 20 2010, 03:25 PM

Did you get the stripped holes issue figured out? How's your project coming along?

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 22 2010, 12:45 AM

QUOTE(RJMII @ Nov 20 2010, 01:25 PM) *

Did you get the stripped holes issue figured out? How's your project coming along?


Jim,
I have a timesert kit on order, yeah, it may be overkill but I don't want to have to do it again. I did read on the forum where it was advised against using studs so I decided not to go that route. Until the kit comes in I'll just focus on cleaning up the heads, cylinders and pistons in preparation for re-assembly.

I do need to order the crush washer's for the oil strainer cap and drain plug though. Maybe I'll order a dozen or so, that way I'll have them when I change the oil.

For a car that was supposed to spare me the hassle of riding in the cold, rain and sometimes snow here in Germany, it hasn't helped much. On the other hand, I have learned quite a bit from this project so I won't really complain, I'll leave that to the wife! biggrin.gif I'm sooo gonna have to let her buy a nice BMW sedan before we leave Germany dry.gif

Posted by: abayer1969 Nov 22 2010, 03:48 AM

You need to do an RFO for sunny warm FT. Drum. You would have so much time on your hands. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 22 2010, 05:00 AM

QUOTE(abayer1969 @ Nov 22 2010, 01:48 AM) *

You need to do an RFO for sunny warm FT. Drum. You would have so much time on your hands. rolleyes.gif

OH, you mean the place where you get issued a snow blower with your on-post housing? blink.gif Yeah, that ain't happenin! My buddy tried to pull me along with him but I think I will stay away from Watertown for as long as I can avoid it!

Lived in Buffalo for a couple of years, no desire to go back to NY; just not the state for me.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 11 2010, 10:20 AM

Well, haven't had much time to work on the motor as of late but I did get the timesert kit in and fixed the small bolt issue. I was hoping to get more done than that but it's been a bit hectic as of late. Can't do much this weekend since the wife is in Copenhagen, Denmark with her friends and I have the denizen of destruction for all this past week and weekend. Working on teaching her how to pour a good scotch! biggrin.gif

Wife gets back tomorrow but I then take off for NC for a conference next week and get back on Friday at which point I get the youngun again since the wife will be in Paris for the weekend with some other friends of her. I did get the oil in the Toyota changed this morning, took me a whopping 15 minutes to include filter change. Of course the knucklehead in front of me took a friggin hour! blowup.gif Some people should not be allowed to work on their cars...wait, I'm probably one of them av-943.gif

So, I guess this project is at a standstill at the moment; say la vie. bye1.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 3 2011, 03:54 AM

Well, I finally got started again...just in time to head to Africa...again. I did get the oil sump bolt holes for the taco plate done so that should be a non-issue.

After some vigorous cleaning and other work, I have the motor out of the basement and partially assembled. Cleaned up the pistons and cylinders, reinstalled them along with the seals and cylinder head. Need to put in the oil tubes and rods then can finish the rest of the motor assembly. I am pretty sure I have covered all the bases on oil leak possibilities! blink.gif

Moved the gearbox to the basement yesterday, will clean that up and replace some seals when I get back from my foray into the wilds of Africa. Once that is done, I need to clean up the heat exchange system and do some brazing to fill in some holes in the exchanger. Haven't done brazing in years but I think I can figure it out without too much problems. It wasn't that hard as I recall.... happy11.gif

Once that is done, on to the final assembly! I need to have it done before June as I have to re-register it on post. Once I get it past inspection the next project is to replace all 4 brake calipers with Eric's rebuilt ones. After that, I ain't touching her until I get it back stateside. Need to work on my MG motor so I can tackle that project when I return to the states.

Oh wait, I forgot, need to fix the engine bay mounting brackets after I get the car up and running. Otherwise she won't close. Will have to pull off both brackets and put in new ones. One is riveted in so won't be an issue, the other unfortunately is welded! That should be fun lol-2.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Apr 3 2011, 08:02 AM

Any progress is good progress. Good luck.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 17 2011, 10:27 AM

OK, started on the transmission yesterday. Fun...I got the rear plate off but then hit a snag. I have followed Red Beard's instructions as well as Bondo's in the classic's thread but the two shift rods refuse to allow me to 'tap' them in.

I can get either the 2/3 or the 4/5 rods down but when I get one down the other won't budge. So, frustrated, I did more on the motor. Got the tubes, rods, valve train and oil cooler installed. Even remembered to put the cylinder head tin on first this time!! Not that I have ever installed the tubes first... rolleyes.gif

So, I have a bit more on the motor and she is done, I just need to get the transmission torn down, inspect the gears and conduct repairs as needed. Anyone got any ideas on what I am possibly doing wrong on the transmission tear down? I sent Bondo a PM and left a note on the PP forum as well. Unfortunately, I am traveling again tomorrow so won't be able to pursue this more until I get back.

As a last question, anyone ever blast the trans case to clean it before painting? I don't have a cleaner available but I do have a blaster but want to get feed back before I tackle the case; if I can blast it the cleaning will be quicker otherwise, I do the old fashioned hand and wire brush method. unsure.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Apr 17 2011, 07:44 PM

I think you need to review my pictorial on removing the stack. You can not select 4/5 and 2/3 if it is working correctly. You only need to select 5th (rod in) to pull the stack. The rest of them dont need to be messed with.

Click on my rebuild link below and I have instructions for pulling the stack.

Need a rebuild DVD???

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 19 2011, 03:18 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Apr 17 2011, 05:44 PM) *

I think you need to review my pictorial on removing the stack. You can not select 4/5 and 2/3 if it is working correctly. You only need to select 5th (rod in) to pull the stack. The rest of them dont need to be messed with.

Click on my rebuild link below and I have instructions for pulling the stack.

Need a rebuild DVD???


I though you were out, I will PM you. Will look at your thread, hopefully I can tackle it when I get back to Germany this weekend. Thanks.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 19 2011, 08:45 AM

OK, so, after three weeks of traveling to take care of my father who passed away this past May. I finally got back around to the car. Mike, AKA Dr. Evil, sent me his DVD for tranny rebuild which I began watching to see how the written tutorial coincided with the video. I like the video better as I learn better seeing the actual action so thanks Mike!

Now, the only thing I will complain about is the fact that the good doctor makes removing the snap rings off the dog teeth easy... dry.gif not so much. Although, I think he had a bigger tool than I did laugh.gif Seriously, his snap ring removal tool was bigger than the dinky German one I have and I believe that size does make a difference in this case.

So where do we stand right now? Well, the case is being cleaned, will get it back next week and, the gear stack is completely broken down.
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Well, I didn't understand the 'roof line' comment at first while watching the video but once I 'looked' at the gears and sliders I understood what he meant. As anticipated in Mike's comments, the slider for 4 and 5 wasn't in too bad shape but the 2/3 slider has some flat roof tops and need's replacement. I will probably replace both slider for good measure. What concerned me more was the 1/R slider which is the expensive one. I am think that this is toast, thoughts?
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I will attach a picture of the synchro rings in the next post for comments.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 19 2011, 08:52 AM

OK, pictures of the synchro rings; I stacked them together and took the photo. I am thinking a couple will need replacement but I need to re-watch the inspection portion of the video before I complete the assessment.
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Will probably order everything this week but have a heavy travel schedule for July so won't get to it until August. confused24.gif In the meantime, hope all you fathers out there had a happy father's day! biggrin.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Jun 19 2011, 10:32 AM

4 bad rings sad.gif

Your first slider needs a shot across the flat side at the teeth, basically a profile shot from the outside in. It looks gone in the original pic.

I have parts for low $$ wink.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Jun 19 2011, 10:47 AM

Oh ya, I will bet that you have a bad 2-5 slider, particularly on the 2nd gear side, and bad teeth on 1st and 2nd (maybe 3 and 4 as well looking at those rings). PM me and I will get you a parts list.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 19 2011, 11:41 AM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 19 2011, 08:32 AM) *

4 bad rings sad.gif

Your first slider needs a shot across the flat side at the teeth, basically a profile shot from the outside in. It looks gone in the original pic.

I have parts for low $$ wink.gif

Yeah, I re-viewed the part about the rings and figured I'd need 4 new ones. I'll get you some better shots tomorrow after work of the #1/R slider. Of the other two sliders, one is what I would consider toast and the other looks usable. Will get some better pictures to you tomorrow to evaluate via PM.

I'm gonna price out the parts at the local Porsche dealer down the road from me for shits and giggles but have a feeling it will be a bit exorbitant! rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Jun 19 2011, 11:51 AM

my email for pics is MakeMy914go at yahoo

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 20 2011, 10:23 AM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 19 2011, 09:51 AM) *

my email for pics is MakeMy914go at yahoo

Pictures sent.

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 20 2011, 11:00 AM

OK, so, after close to two months on the road between Africa and the US I am finally back in Deutschland for almost a whole month! biggrin.gif

So I began re-assembly of the transmission starting with the pinion gear.
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As one can see, this went fairly smoothly. Of course it helped that I had Mike's DVD playing as I did it. I would stop, rewind, pause, then move forward again to make sure I had things straight.

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Yes, that's a potty training seat in the background, anyone need one?

Next, on to the drive shaft assembly. Again, same thing, play, pause, reverse, play, pause, move forward. I thought I was doing well until I tightened down the stretch bolt.

What I noticed in Mike's video was the whole pinion assembly turned freely when he turned the drive shaft. Mine did too UNTIL I tightened the bolt the the required 80ft lbs. After that, it didn't turn like it did before. sad.gif
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So, I sent a note to Mike and what you see above is where I have stopped for today. I don't want to get too far along if I need to disassemble the gear stack again to make sure I put it together properly. Hopefully I can tackle it a bit more later tonight or tomorrow. Slowly moving forward and yes, I painted everything yellow, better to see leaks with!

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 20 2011, 03:20 PM

Did you put the washer under the stretch bolts?? Sounds like they are missing and if so it will bind.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 20 2011, 03:33 PM

Sorry, scratch my last. I thought you were talking about the out put flanges.

If binding happens after tightening the main pinion bolt, then I am betting the impression that you may have mixed up the thrust washers under 1st, 2nd and over fifth.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 20 2011, 03:48 PM

A couple of other thoughts:

Are the gears with steps on them oriented correctly?
3 with step towards int plate
I can see 4 is correct
Is 5 correct?

Still thinking thrust washer issue. There are 3. The thinnest goes under 1st. Under 2 and over 5 needed to be kept not-mixed-up as doing sow will give you your symptoms.

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 20 2011, 11:25 PM

Mike,
I will check on everything you posted as a potential culprit and let you know what I discover.

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 22 2011, 12:36 AM

So, upon inspection, Master Evil correctly deduced that I had boogered up the Pinion shaft assembly. dry.gif Mixed up the spacer after 5th gear on the shaft. Fixed that, put it together, torqued it and TADA! smilie_pokal.gif Works like a champ.

So on to the rest of the assembly, got the forks on and adjusted according to Mikes intensely detailed procedure for tail shifters... blink.gif he, he, he, he...will post pictures later. Began the inspection of the case and installed the seals and, as Mike pointed out is often the case, no throw out bearing guide clips were anywhere to be found. At least he had one in his video, I had none! So I'll be stopping by the local Porsche dealer to see if I can get my hands on a pair.

Shouldn't derail the rest of the assembly though so will move forward the rest of this week with the hopes of getting it put together by the end of the week! Famous last words dry.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 28 2011, 11:02 AM

It's done! piratenanner.gif The Tranny that is, still have more work to do on the car but I got the final piece on this morning and then made sure all the bolts were torqued properly.

I almost had it done on Saturday but the tail cone gave me a bit of a challenge and I was tired so I figured I'd try again the next morning.

Mike's video was a tremendous help and he has the patience of a saint when dealing with retards like myself! lol-2.gif Now, I need to get to work on the shift linkage, heating system and then re-do the engine bay brackets and she should be rolling. Once I get the motor married up and everything mounted we'll see if I put everything together correctly on the tranny.

Some pictures, again, yes, its 'sunflower yellow.' Easier for me to see leaks with!
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We head to Tuscany for a mini-vacation then I am on the road again for work so the next step will have to wait a bit. Hopefully I can get it done before it gets to cold.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 28 2011, 06:48 PM

thumb3d.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 1 2012, 08:35 AM

OK, so, after a rather frigid friggin winter here in Germany and a lot of travel, I finally started working on the car again. As noted previously, I got the transmission done thanks to the helpful advice of Herr Evil beerchug.gif

So, I began working on the shift linkage assembly to hopefully remove some of the slop; yeah I know, the only way to really get rid of it is to get me a side shifter. Eventually but right now the Tail shifter is what I have to work with.

I looked up some of the threads on PP and began down that road rebuilding the shifter assembly first then moving on to doing some other parts inspections and replacements. I replaced some bushings and balls and, after close inspection and cleaning of the shift rod, had to replace that as well. towards the front of the rod where it mates to the balls on the back of the firewall, there was a rather large 'slice' for lack of a better word that split the rod. It was about 2 inches long and about 3mm wide. Luckily, there is a guy here in Germany who has a lot of used parts that I was able to get a new/used rod from.

After all that was done I began cleaning the engine tin screws. Discovered an interesting phenomenon. If you put the screws into 'rust treatment' solution, a German brand, and forget about it for a week, when you get back, you have what looks like a fossilized rock from a tar pit. blink.gif The solution solidified around all the screws! Guess I'll be getting new screws. happy11.gif

So I decided to tackle the re-threading of the heater cables. WHAT A ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Not that I wasn't expecting that, as I searched the forum for 'solutions' to get the driver side cable through the bend it was clearly evident that this was not going to be easy. I did it though and got a good layer of grease on the inside of the tubes to keep em moving smoothly.

Time to replace the heater hoses, that was easy, check the flapper boxes, they are ugly but move fine. Still need to wire the heater lever to the control panel but I may actually have heat in the car this winter!

So what do I have left? Well here is my list at the moment.

1. Replace exhaust studs.
2. Install new exhaust gaskets.
3. Fill up transmission with fluid.
4. Finish assembling motor with transmission.
5. Clean up the carbs (they have been sitting so I am pretty sure the gas has crystallized on the needles.)
6. Finish wiring the heater lever to the control box.
7. install the motor.
8. Time the motor.
9. Get it inspected.

At this point I just need her to run reliably without any major exhaust or oil leaks. Once this is done, I can get her registered and then she is ready to ship back stateside next year. I have one more year here in Germany then I head back to the states.

After I put my MG back together, I'll completely tear the 914 down to the frame and start all over again! av-943.gif av-943.gif But this time it will be a methodical and deliberate process that gets her completely up to snuff. I sometimes wonder if I have taken leave of my senses but then I remember that I re-married and had another kid so the answer is...yes. rolleyes.gif


Posted by: stephenaki Apr 6 2012, 07:52 AM

OK, I'm on the home stretch, exhaust studs...good, gaskets...good. Air flap roller...what? Well this sucks, I don't have one.

So, I can't finish putting in the bellows and hook it up to the cooling flap assembly without this piece. I have an email out to Patrik Hess here in Germany to see if he has one then it struck me, it's just a pulley wheel, wonder if I could just buy the wheel at a hardware store and retrofit it?

Here is my question, anyone know the diameter of the pulley wheel?

Posted by: rick 918-S Apr 6 2012, 07:59 AM

I have no idea what a air flap roller is. confused24.gif Gottsa picture? thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 6 2012, 08:20 AM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Apr 6 2012, 05:59 AM) *

I have no idea what a air flap roller is. confused24.gif Gottsa picture? thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif


Attached Image ITEM# 19

Porsche Part# 021 119 769 A. The thermostat attaches to the lower portion of the crankcase, the cable runs up towards the cooling flaps but goes 'around' the roller to facilitate the expansion and collapse of the bellows as the motor heats up and cools down.

Most no longer have this on their cars, I got the set up so see if it would help with starting in the lovely cold weather here in Germany.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 10 2012, 10:34 AM

OK, looks like we're going to plan 'B' for the roller as my supplier here doesn't have any so, off to Hornbach this week to find a suitable replacement.

I do have a question though, since the hole goes all the way through I would assume that the bolt holding the roller is fairly tight to keep oil from leaking. This of course means the 'roller' doesn't really 'roll' now does it. blink.gif

So is it a safe assumption to say that I should, 'grease' the cable lightly and the surface of the roller where the cable makes contact heavily or is the friction so slight that it doesn't really matter?

Inquiring minds want to know! popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: ArtechnikA Apr 10 2012, 10:46 AM

Could be (I have no first-hand experience...) the roller has a sleeve bushing/bearing on which it rotates. That would be my guess.

Alternatively, your bolt #20 could be a shoulder screw with a long unthreaded portion to act as an axle.

If you're building up something from generic industrial parts, either approach could work. You could possibly just use a stud and add spacers to secure a bushing/bearing for the roller to spin on, with a locking nut on the outside.

I'd think there's no hope of a threadlocker actually sealing a threaded hole with oil in it.

Posted by: Racer Chris Apr 10 2012, 10:47 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Apr 10 2012, 11:34 AM) *

OK, looks like we're going to plan 'B' for the roller as my supplier here doesn't have any so, off to Hornbach this week to find a suitable replacement.

I do have a question though, since the hole goes all the way through I would assume that the bolt holding the roller is fairly tight to keep oil from leaking. This of course means the 'roller' doesn't really 'roll' now does it. blink.gif

So is it a safe assumption to say that I should, 'grease' the cable lightly and the surface of the roller where the cable makes contact heavily or is the friction so slight that it doesn't really matter?

Inquiring minds want to know! popcorn[1].gif

The bolt has a shoulder so when its tight the pulley will move freely.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 11 2012, 12:22 AM

QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Apr 10 2012, 08:47 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Apr 10 2012, 11:34 AM) *

OK, looks like we're going to plan 'B' for the roller as my supplier here doesn't have any so, off to Hornbach this week to find a suitable replacement.

I do have a question though, since the hole goes all the way through I would assume that the bolt holding the roller is fairly tight to keep oil from leaking. This of course means the 'roller' doesn't really 'roll' now does it. blink.gif

So is it a safe assumption to say that I should, 'grease' the cable lightly and the surface of the roller where the cable makes contact heavily or is the friction so slight that it doesn't really matter?

Inquiring minds want to know! popcorn[1].gif

The bolt has a shoulder so when its tight the pulley will move freely.

hmm, well, I can't get the original bolt so I'll just do some experimenting but if I understand you correctly the roller should actually roll at least enough to facilitate cable movement.

I have an engineer in my office who builds airplanes; he recommended using the sleeve for a bicycle cable to run the cable through with grease. He used this type of set up for his ultra-light aircraft and stated that the sleeve would be resistent to heat.

The concept is secure the puller, run the cable over it to the cooling flaps or, use some type of clip to secure the cable in place using the existing bolt and do away with the puller entirely. Thoughts?

Posted by: rick 918-S Apr 11 2012, 04:19 PM

Oh ya, Duh! icon_bump.gif Here's a bump. Maybe someone has the correct bolt and roller they can send you.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 14 2012, 03:54 AM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Apr 11 2012, 02:19 PM) *

Oh ya, Duh! icon_bump.gif Here's a bump. Maybe someone has the correct bolt and roller they can send you.

Thanks Rick problem solved though. I went to the trusty ol Hornbach here in Germany and then did some creative problem solving.

So, Hornbach didn't have any 'rollers' or pulley type wheels that were not attached to something. After looking around, I found this.
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It has the right size roller, now I just gotta get it out for use. So the following ensued.
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Resulting in...
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Of course the M6 bolt didn't quite fit so I had to drill it out a smidge to make it work. Once this was done, I took a day of rest. 6 Year old decided to share here stomach virus with me...not fun. barf.gif

Today, I feel better, some minor stomach cramping but nothing I can't deal with. Time to install my new roller and set up the cooling flaps. But before I started that, I tested the bellows I got a while back. YEP, it works! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

So off to the tiny space the Germans consider a garage, move the Beemer out, flip up the motor onto a thick rubber pad and lets get to work. When it was all said and done I was left with the following.
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So we're making progress. I'm heading off to ATU to see if I can find a paint pen to better mark TDC and then hopefully get the motor, transmission and all that is the FUPP (Army term for Full Up Power Pack, refers to M1 engines and transmission assemblies) assembled and ready for installation into the car.

I have to finish cleaning one of the carbs and will need to install new hinges for the motor deck lid as well as install the oil catcher but should be ready for the motor to go in by next weekend. Need to do as much as possible as I start traveling again towards the end of April and will be gone through most of May. Goal now is to have it operational and re-registered by the end of June. We'll see what happens!

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 9 2012, 12:37 PM

Well, the new clutch disc came in this past week and worked perfectly. Clearly, I managed to screw up the old clutch disc which is why she wasn't cooperating.

So, progress was made today and the motor and tranny are mated.
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I need to put on the tin and she'll be ready for installation. In the mean time, I started tackling the engine lid bracket problem. The drivers side bracket was cracked at the bend and the passenger bracket was clearly an 'add on.' So I started to remove both.

Before:
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After...not quite done yet:
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As one can see, a bit of some metal work is going to be in order. Anyone got any tricks on this one before I continue? I miss my tools, I could have easily cut out the bad patch if I had just had all my tools brought over. headbang.gif

Guess I'll go and see if I can find someone with a 220 dremel so I can cut out the rest of the driver's side bracket. Then I'll need to do some patching and welding before I can get the new brackets in. Nothing is ever easy with this car! rolleyes.gif

Posted by: seanery Jun 9 2012, 03:15 PM

Damn, Stephen! You are a heck of a trooper!! I just read the whole thread, what a journey. I hope you get it back together and get to finally enjoy it!

Thanks for your service flag.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 5 2012, 10:55 AM

OK, got a lot of work done this past 4th of July. Spent it in the garage working on the teener...I can see the finish line!

So, got the other bracket cut out and treated both with a rust preventer to stop any flash rust.
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Next I went to work on assembling the tin and getting things put back together.
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She's pretty much ready to go; I will need to get the brackets for the engine lid put in first though before I reinstall the motor. Gonna go talk to the body shop down the street tomorrow to see how much the Germans will charge me to do the work. Hopefully I don't have to put a lien on the new car to get this done rolleyes.gif

Speaking of which...new car, picked it up today; 2013 Volvo XC70. We transer our 2005 Toyota Sienna to its new owner tomorrow.
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So, I have looked at some threads but would like some recommendations on what type of oil to use. Mind you, I can't get the special stuff that Jake R has available as it won't ship here so looking for what is the best oil weight to use and brand. I'm a bit limited on what I can get here, recommendations?


Posted by: stephenaki Jul 10 2012, 08:56 AM

So, the body shop down the street will be coming by to pick up the car and put in the new engine lid brackets today. piratenanner.gif

Had to roll her out of the garage in preparation of the pick up. I also got the carbs put back on this past weekend as well. I need to run the fuel lines to the carbs and get them ready then need to re-route and attach the wiring harness to there respective connections. I always forget what goes where, I guess this is the difference between a shade tree mechanic and a professional. happy11.gif I'll just have to do some reading and research to make sure I put everything back where they belong.

It will take some time but that is not an issue as I'll be in Africa again on Thursday and won't be back for about a week and a half. I am hoping the work is done when I get back so I can finish up a few other things and put the motor back in after I get back. I would like to get everything re-installed before my motorcycle trip in August as she'll need to get re-registered by September.

After searching I found the Jake Raby thread on oil. Well, I can't get Brad Penn oil here so I called Royal purple and talked to one of their technicians who recommended using their Maxcycle 20/50 oil. Anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils? My choices here in Deutschland are a bit limited so I'm looking for options. They also thought I could use their XPR 20/50 but thought it might be a bit of overkill.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 18 2012, 10:59 PM

OK, I've been a bit busy between traveling for work and working on two major exercises that I am running logistics for. Add on the fact that my eldest daughter came over from Italy last week and I just haven't had time to work on the teener. sad.gif

Well, the eldest went back to Italy and the wife is off to meet her in Paris this week leaving me with the newly minted 7 year old, she had her birthday on the 8th of this month. birthday3.gif

The neighbor has invited her for a sleep over so she'll be over there all day which means...I GET TO WORK ON THE CAR THIS WEEKEND!! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

She came back from the body shop and they did a good job of re-welding and mounting the engine lid. My NCO who is a mechanic may come over to help but I think it is only so I give him free beer beer3.gif No matter, I told him he can't have beer until AFTER we get the motor in and hooked up. With any luck, I'll have her running by Sunday, hmm, where have I heard that before... dry.gif

I'll post some pictures of the newly mounted lid tomorrow along with, hopefully, a remounted motor. Wish me luck!

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 20 2012, 12:09 PM

OK, the plan didn't quite go as I wanted it to as the neighbor went shopping with Rianna's buddy so I had to find ways to keep the munchkin entertained while I worked on the car. dry.gif

I did get pics of the work on the new mounting brackets for the lid.
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So, after making sure I had all the necessary bolts, brackets, nuts, etc. I started the process of getting the motor in the car. First order of business, pull out the bikes, back out the car and center it in my tiny German garage. Because I share a driveway, I can't just pull her out and work on her in the driveway.
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Ready to start.

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OK, were ready to go!

During the process of jacking the car up I had Rianna come out about every 15 minutes, 'I'm bored! I have no one to play with!' OK, we can fix that... happy11.gif
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OOPS! Pulled the bolt out and lost my balance!

I only let her unscrew and pull out two bolts on each wheel, she wanted to do all of them but I explained that the tire would fall on her so she was happy to do the two bolts on each tire instead. Since I was also waiting for some of the brackets to dry before I could proceed, I decided to cut the grass as it sorely needed it. Guess who wanted to help again...
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I bet she won't want to do this when she is a teenager!

I probably would have gotten all the grass done a lot quicker had I not had her 'helping.' Oh well, it kept her busy until lunch. Thankfully she started on her Lego Friends kit after lunch so stayed self entertained the rest of the afternoon. At least most of the time. She'd come out every now and again to get me to help her with her little project.

By around 1800 I got the motor in and the axles connected to the gearbox. I still need to run the fuel electrical and oil collection lines. I don't know how much I will get done tomorrow since you aren't allowed to do anything on Sundays in Germany but I will do what I can. In the mean time, here are the remaining pics for the day.
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I REALLY NEED A BIGGER WORK AREA!!

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We'll see how much I get done tomorrow; gotta help Rianna with her homework and clean and oil the chain on the BMW. Hopefully I can tackle most of the electrical and fuel lines tomorrow.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 4 2012, 03:40 PM

Well now, here I sit in the lovely Atlanta airport. dry.gif I'm waiting for my connecting flight to Fayetteville, NC. Thankfully, I was able to get quite a bit done on the car yesterday. I got the shift linkage hooked up, clutch cable hooked up, heat exchangers in place and the exhaust is ready to be put on. I had hoped to get more done but I had to clean up the heat exchangers before I could put them in and the previous weekend's snow didn't help. hissyfit.gif

I'll be in NC for about two weeks, a week at a planning conference and then a week on a track of sorts for high threat personnel tactical training. I get to spend the week doing silly shit in a car and learning to shoot out of them while moving. Should be fun! piratenanner.gif

Hopefully the weather will cooperate when I get back as the finish line isn't far away to getting her on the road and I have a feeling I'll be needing her this winter. So, what do I have left?

1. finish exhaust install
2. hook up heater box cables to the heat exchangers
3. hook up electrical wiring (my biggest weakness)
4. hook up fuel lines
5. hook up oil/vapor lines for carbs
6. adjust clutch and fuel pedal play
7. time the motor

Basically ankle biters. My biggest problem will be remembering where the damn wires go, as stated above, I suck at electrical wiring for the car. A house I can do, cars tend to befuddle me. I need to take a class on electrics.

I'm hoping that I get some time when I get back as I won't be back for long; I have to head to Africa again right after Turkey Day. I didn't get any pics this time, I'll get some after I get her back up and running.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 28 2012, 08:00 AM

So relaxing on Christmas day for me was working on the teener. I got the throttle cable hooked up, adjusted the gearshift rod and clutch pedal play. Then finished the heat exchanger hook up, partially, before I called it quits. I have to finish the heat exchanger cable hook up before that is done. I'm getting ready to tackle more this weekend but had a question on setting up the breather and no, I am not running this on the track.

I have the CB performance box which will do for now and have looked at several threads. My question is should the box drain back into the heads or into the carbs?

I saw several pictures of different hook ups, some complex some very simple but I thought the whole point of the breather was to catch the oil then let it drain back into the motor. If she drains into the carbs, doesn't that kinda gum them up a bit?

Just looking for some advice before I tackle this aspect of the rebuild, any info people can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 28 2012, 08:27 AM

QUOTE
I saw several pictures of different hook ups, some complex some very simple but I thought the whole point of the breather was to catch the oil then let it drain back into the motor. If she drains into the carbs, doesn't that kinda gum them up a bit?

there should be 4 ports.
one from each head. these are 'in'
one drainback to the case - this is kind of an in/out, as it relieves crankcase pressure in operation and provides a return path for collected oil, condensed from the mist.
one _vent_ to the air cleaner, to burn the partially oxidized blowby and some of the oil vapor. Some simply vent this to the atmosphere. I ran mine to the air cleaner, the way carbureted Porsche engines always were from the factory. With - I should note - a flame arrestor, because having an intake backfire propagate into the possibly combustible crankcase vapor is definitely A Bad Thing.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 28 2012, 09:26 AM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Dec 28 2012, 06:27 AM) *

QUOTE
I saw several pictures of different hook ups, some complex some very simple but I thought the whole point of the breather was to catch the oil then let it drain back into the motor. If she drains into the carbs, doesn't that kinda gum them up a bit?

there should be 4 ports.
one from each head. these are 'in'
one drainback to the case - this is kind of an in/out, as it relieves crankcase pressure in operation and provides a return path for collected oil, condensed from the mist.
one _vent_ to the air cleaner, to burn the partially oxidized blowby and some of the oil vapor. Some simply vent this to the atmosphere. I ran mine to the air cleaner, the way carbureted Porsche engines always were from the factory. With - I should note - a flame arrestor, because having an intake backfire propagate into the possibly combustible crankcase vapor is definitely A Bad Thing.

Yes, there are 4 ports. I have seen people use the two sides and one in the center blocking off the 4th. Now, I am running dual Dellorto 40 Carbs and the intake manifold on each one has a vent port.
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There is one on each side; would these suffice for the "one from each head?" I assume that I will need to run one drain line back into the oil filler neck as there is a port already there.

If I run one line each from the side ports to the intake vent and then one to the oil filler neck vent, I have one port left. Here is what I am thinking.
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Sorry for the crude drawing, will this work? She needs to pass inspection so I can ship her home. I will PCS this June and need to get her operational so I can put her on a boat headed back stateside.

I can probably create a "Y" junction and run a single line to the junction and then split them out to each carb on the top. Thoughts? Do I need to do this or will a three line system suffice?

Posted by: Cupomeat Dec 28 2012, 10:54 AM

Sorry to join this thread late, but you need to port your breather box BEFORE the throttle venturies/butterfly plates or else you'll have your whole crank case in a partial vacuum and you'll be chasing mixture issues as the engine loosens up.

Don't use the manifold ports for this. You can use them to equalize between the two sides, but it is bad idea to use them for crankcase breathing.

Just think, if ANY gasket starts to leak (top of a valve cover or the breather tower for examples) then you'll start sucking air through them and your mixture will go lean.

I think the port they speak of is the HEAD breather port which is found on D-Jet cars and vents the gasses from each head.

I hope this helps.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 28 2012, 11:27 AM

QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Dec 28 2012, 08:54 AM) *

Sorry to join this thread late, but you need to port your breather box BEFORE the throttle venturies/butterfly plates or else you'll have your whole crank case in a partial vacuum and you'll be chasing mixture issues as the engine loosens up.

Don't use the manifold ports for this. You can use them to equalize between the two sides, but it is bad idea to use them for crankcase breathing.

Just think, if ANY gasket starts to leak (top of a valve cover or the breather tower for examples) then you'll start sucking air through them and your mixture will go lean.

I think the port they speak of is the HEAD breather port which is found on D-Jet cars and vents the gasses from each head.

I hope this helps.

Hmm, OK, will look at other options. I'm looking at old photos and their are hoses running into what looks like a PCV valve. There is then a hose running from the PCV to an empty quart of oil container. The port from the oil filler neck also has a hose running from it to the empty oil container and no, I didn't do this, the Germans did!

I have a new NCO that is working in a sister ALE that is a school house instructor for the Army for mechanics. I'll enlist his help to come up with the best solution for this sucker.

Tomorrow I'll finish up the electrical, fuel lines and heater controls. All I'll have left is the breather box set up after that.

Posted by: SirAndy Dec 28 2012, 11:44 AM

QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Dec 28 2012, 08:54 AM) *
Sorry to join this thread late, but you need to port your breather box BEFORE the throttle venturies/butterfly plates

agree.gif

The breather box needs to vent into the air-cleaner portion, not the intake runners. The oil vapors should go through the venturis, not bypass them.
shades.gif

Posted by: DBCooper Dec 28 2012, 12:39 PM

agree.gif But do use a hose to connect those manifold vents on each side to the other. It smooths out side-to-side vacuum differences so the car idles a bit better.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 28 2012, 01:00 PM

There's a few concepts here, loosely related but they all come together.

The breather box is designed to relieve pressure from places it shouldn't be, but is. One is the crankcase. Positive pressure here is always bad, and all cars have some way of venting this pressure. In Ancient Tymes it was just routed to atmosphere. More recently (mid 1950's) it was necessary to route it back to the intake.

The other place pressure is bad, especially in boxer engines, is the valve covers. 914's are famous for blowing out valve cover gaskets, followed by all their oil. In some years of 914's - and I don't follow the /4's that closely so check the history somewhere - there are breather ports in the heads that lead to the rocker arm area. Lots of performance VW engines from before this time found ways to add breather ports to their valve covers.

If your heads have ports, use them. If not, you might want to find a way to add them, but at this point for you, it'd just be an unnecessary complication. Connect the crankcase breather - yes, that one at the oil filler - to one of the breather box ports, and the other to the AIRBOX. Or whatever you're using to keep rain out of the carb intakes. just (somehow) run the hose to a fitting that vents to the carb side of the air cleaner.

Moving on - if you think about boxer firing sequence, you see that adjacent cylinders fire consecutively. This means the first to fire has to start the air column moving through the venturis, making it run a little lean, and the second has the advantage of the moving air column's momentum (which is significant) and tends to run rich.

With single-throat carbs and manifolds, it's helpful to balance the airflow with a big pipe between the manifolds. That lets some of the vacuum from the other side of the engine keep the air column moving so the first-to-fire cylinder doesn't run so lean. VW has used this trick for a long some, back to at least the early twin-carb T-III engines.

So the _only_ place to connect the manifold ports is to each other. It will help a lot. If you can't arrange for an appropriate hose, plug the ports until you can find the right hose.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 29 2012, 02:05 AM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Dec 28 2012, 11:00 AM) *

There's a few concepts here, loosely related but they all come together.

The breather box is designed to relieve pressure from places it shouldn't be, but is. One is the crankcase. Positive pressure here is always bad, and all cars have some way of venting this pressure. In Ancient Tymes it was just routed to atmosphere. More recently (mid 1950's) it was necessary to route it back to the intake.

The other place pressure is bad, especially in boxer engines, is the valve covers. 914's are famous for blowing out valve cover gaskets, followed by all their oil. In some years of 914's - and I don't follow the /4's that closely so check the history somewhere - there are breather ports in the heads that lead to the rocker arm area. Lots of performance VW engines from before this time found ways to add breather ports to their valve covers.

If your heads have ports, use them. If not, you might want to find a way to add them, but at this point for you, it'd just be an unnecessary complication. Connect the crankcase breather - yes, that one at the oil filler - to one of the breather box ports, and the other to the AIRBOX. Or whatever you're using to keep rain out of the carb intakes. just (somehow) run the hose to a fitting that vents to the carb side of the air cleaner.

Moving on - if you think about boxer firing sequence, you see that adjacent cylinders fire consecutively. This means the first to fire has to start the air column moving through the venturis, making it run a little lean, and the second has the advantage of the moving air column's momentum (which is significant) and tends to run rich.

With single-throat carbs and manifolds, it's helpful to balance the airflow with a big pipe between the manifolds. That lets some of the vacuum from the other side of the engine keep the air column moving so the first-to-fire cylinder doesn't run so lean. VW has used this trick for a long some, back to at least the early twin-carb T-III engines.

So the _only_ place to connect the manifold ports is to each other. It will help a lot. If you can't arrange for an appropriate hose, plug the ports until you can find the right hose.


Thanks for the discussion on this subject. It has definitely made me a lot smarter on this issue. Based on your and everyone elses comments, I believe I have a way ahead.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 29 2012, 11:37 AM

OK, got a lot of work done today. Got all but the battery hooked up, finished the heater box set up, had to pull the wires and re-route them. Luckily one of the guys on my team popped over cause he was bored and made it a lot easier with four sets of hands.

Got the exhaust on, pulled the driver seat out and installed the new seat adjustment handle. We'll see how long before it breaks based on comments from DD that I read when I looked up how to install the dang thing. Its the plastic handle.

So all I have left is to hook up the battery, run the breather lines, add oil, and time the motor. Tomorrow is put away all the Christmas stuff day so I won't get anything done tomorrow. Especially given the fact that we are moving in about 6 months so will go through everything to see what we can sell here in Germany before heading back stateside.

If I'm fortunate, I'll get to finish everything up on Monday. That being said and based on the plethora of comments for the breather, my plan is as follows.

1. Run a line from one intake port to the other per recommendations.
2. Drill and install a port on top of each carb lids and run lines from the sides of the CB breather to each carb.
3. Run a line from the front of the breather to the oil filler port and cap off the extra port on the breather.

Any issues with this plan? popcorn[1].gif If all goes well, I'll have her registered by the end of this coming week. Provided the inspectors aren't fucktards. They got a new crew in and a couple of them are complete assholes who try to find ways to fail the 'Americans' cars during inspection. sheeplove.gif

Posted by: ArtechnikA Dec 29 2012, 12:23 PM

You really only need to vent the breather to one carb. More is just weight, expense, clutter, and stuff to go wrong. Pick whichever is closest.

If you want two for the symmetry, go for it, but it won't buy you anything.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2012, 01:38 AM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Dec 29 2012, 10:23 AM) *

You really only need to vent the breather to one carb. More is just weight, expense, clutter, and stuff to go wrong. Pick whichever is closest.

If you want two for the symmetry, go for it, but it won't buy you anything.


Sounds like a plan. I'll just use one and see how she goes. Not worried about the other stuff just need her running long enough for me to get her back stateside. Thanks.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 5 2013, 10:33 AM

Well, back to work after the new year and other than annoying retards who are trying to get me to do their job, were doing well. That being said...
She's done! Well relatively speaking.

Everything is assembled I just have to check timing. Unfortunately, she'll crank but isn't starting at the moment. She's getting fuel, I can see it squirting into the carbs when I move the throttle lever between the carbs.

Anyone got any hints or suggestions?
Here is the picture of what I did for the breather unit and the engine bay.
Attached Image
Necessity being the mother of invention, I had to route a hose between ports since I couldn't find any caps to close them off.

Attached Image
I rechecked all the wiring and everything is good and you can here her cranking but she just isn't starting. If I can get her started and make sure the timing is good then I can get her registered this week.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jan 5 2013, 10:42 AM

static-time to 6º BTDC and it will start, then go from there.
if it doesn't start there, your problem is not timing.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 5 2013, 11:12 AM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Jan 5 2013, 08:42 AM) *

static-time to 6º BTDC and it will start, then go from there.
if it doesn't start there, your problem is not timing.


I'll give her a try tomorrow. Lets see how many Germans I can piss off; Sundays are 'don't do anything' days. You can do hobbies but they don't consider me working on the car a hobby even though I do. biggrin.gif

Posted by: fastfingers Jan 5 2013, 12:36 PM

I know you said you checked the wiring, and when I read you had trouble getting her started/running, it reminded me of an embarrassing personal experience for me about 30 years ago. So, not trying to insult here, just check the obvious. This is what happened to me.

I had just finished putting the heads back on and reinstalling a fuel injected 1974 2.0L. I remember worrying about checking everything on the fuel injection. I was so worried about it. After the engine was back in the car and everything was "ready" to go, it wouldn't start. I had a friend come over that weekend and we looked over all the potential trouble areas. So finally my friend says, looking at the wires running from the distributor to the spark plugs, are you sure you have this right, it looks wrong to him? I'm thinking, what, are you kidding me? How could I get something that simple incorrect after having put the rest of the engine back together? Well, he leans into the engine bay and just arbitrarily switched two of the plug wires.

The car started up easily and idled as smooth as a sewing machine. I never forgot that mistake.

Posted by: cwpeden Jan 5 2013, 01:57 PM

I had my tachometer wire on the wrong terminal of the coil. That prevented start.

Same scenerio. Friend comes over after 2 days of trying....this isnt right....and away we go.

Do you have a second set of eyes to help out?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 5 2013, 09:55 PM

Check to see if you have spark. An extra plug can help with that. If not, troubleshoot the ignition system.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 6 2013, 01:10 AM

Thanks all, I have a friend of mine coming over this morning. He was a school house instructor for the Army mechanic school. After doing some research on setting static timing to 6 deg BTDC it occurred to me that I may not have installed the distributor correctly and have a misaligned drive gear.

I will begin the process this morning of making sure I have TDC marked correctly on the impeller as the mark is not clear and I am not totally sure it is right. Once I get that sorted, I will re-install the distributor and then have my buddy explain the nuances of setting static timing. I did forget to mention that the PO installed a petronix kit so there are no points. Hopefully, I'll have her up and running today, wish me luck!

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 6 2013, 06:05 AM

Houston...we have ignition! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif drunk.gif drunk.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif

So after about 3hrs of trial and error, Paul, my buddy, and I finally got the dizzy set up properly. Once we got that aligned properly...tada! She starts up and runs like a champ. I had to adjust the idle as she was running at about 300 rpms but once that was fixed she held a steady and smooth 1500 rpms.

We delved into the dynamic timing next and got her smoothed out. So what are the finishing touches? I need to recheck shift rod adjustment and clutch adjustment, she wasn't going into gear very smoothly. I then need to make sure the emergency brake is adjusted to ensure it locks when they put her on the machine.

I'll work on that this week if I get a chance; I'd do more work today but I am woefully late on completing a report for an investigation I was tasked with a while back so I have to dedicate the rest of today to that.

Once I get her past inspection and registered I need to take her over to the shipping guys to get a preliminary assessment on what I need to do to get her ready for shipment back stateside. The backup plan if they are too difficult is to send her back the way she came. This would mean a road trip to Sigonella, Italy to put her on a Navy ship that is going back stateside and, since it looks like I am now locked in for Norfolk, VA as my next assignment, I'll be right where the ship will drop the car off. So far, things are going well, hopefully my luck holds. biggrin.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jan 6 2013, 08:05 AM

Very cool and congratulations on getting the heart beating.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 9 2013, 10:48 AM

OK, so I did the gear shift rod adjustment then checked the clutch pedal, she still needs a couple of minor tweaks. So, go to start her, she isn't quite responding, could be the fact that it is 37 friggin degrees outside. After a while she begins to catch and then nothing. Kinda like she got stuck. OK, put her in 5th, push! She rolls and it feels like something unstuck itself. Get back in, crank her, she starts! Not sure what was sticking.

When i'd crank her it was like someone grabbed the flywheel for a sec then let go. Any ideas?

So, I get her running and warmed up, time to take her for a spin. She seems to be shifting OK, not great but OK. She goes into gear smoothly I just don't think I have the rod from the stick back to the rear set quite right yet. Then...she sticks and I get a high idle at 3000 RPM. sad.gif Let off the gas and she keeps high idling. The problem is somewhere with the carbs. On a positive note, no oil leak or transmission fluid leak that I could find after driving her around for about 30 minutes.

Just gotta figure out the idle, the gearshift and clutch adjustment I can figure out without any issues. I really wish the PO hadn't taken the FI system out. Hopefully I can figure these last bits out so I can get her through inspection. Once that is done then I just gotta make sure she is clean and ready for the shipment back to the states. Frustrating to say the least. headbang.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 12 2013, 02:06 PM

Well, woke up to snow this morning. dry.gif So I cleared a path and pulled the bikes out then started work on the teener. Pulled both carbs and found the issue with the high idle. The accelerator pump connection was getting hung up and leaving the butterfly open. Fixed that and reset each carb back to pre-tune setup according to the Dellorto manual.

Tackled the shift linkage next and got that sorted out then tried to start her up. Well, looks like I need a new starter...dang. sad.gif Ran over to the Porsche dealer but this is Germany, they close early so at 1530 the SOBs were closed. My German neighbor is looking to see if she can find me someone who rebuilds starters but in the meantime I'll do a bit of a comparison to see who has the better price and can get it to me quicker online. Won't pull the trigger until Monday though; if I can't get a starter relatively quick and that's affordable here in Germany then I'll order it.

At least I know she runs, I just want to make sure I have found the cause of the high idle. Just when I think she is done...another issue pops up. Say la vie. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Gint Jan 12 2013, 02:26 PM

914's law.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2013, 05:10 AM

QUOTE(Gint @ Jan 12 2013, 12:26 PM) *

914's law.

You're not helping here dry.gif

Since I will have to pull the sucker anyway, I'll pull it this afternoon and bench test it. That way I am certain that it is the starter, don't want to spend money to replace something I don't have to.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2013, 07:25 AM

OK, pulled the starter and battery. When you bench test her she works fine, pinion gear shoots out and spins quickly. Battery is solid. Put her back in the car, try to start her; turn, catch, turn, catch, turn, catch now click. I think she is stuck forward.

So, what else could be the problem? The grounds are tight, any suggestions on what I should be checking/testing? I'm at a loss. confused24.gif

Posted by: old dog Jan 13 2013, 09:01 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 13 2013, 05:25 AM) *

OK, pulled the starter and battery. When you bench test her she works fine, pinion gear shoots out and spins quickly. Battery is solid. Put her back in the car, try to start her; turn, catch, turn, catch, turn, catch now click. I think she is stuck forward.

So, what else could be the problem? The grounds are tight, any suggestions on what I should be checking/testing? I'm at a loss. confused24.gif

It could be a battery problem or a voltage to the starter. Testing on the bench doesn't simulate a load on the battery. If the headlights are on while you are trying to crank the engine, do they go out or get very dim ? That would point more towards a battery problem. You did mention snow and batteries hate the cold !

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 13 2013, 09:10 AM

Did you try cranking over the engine by shorting out the leads on the starter? If when you short out the leads, thus connecting the battery directly to the starter and engage circuit, cutting out the loop involving the key, if it does not turn over and you know the battery is good then your starter is in need of replace/repair.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2013, 10:14 AM

I forgot to try it with the headlights on. I do know that when I ran into this earlier I had it hooked up to my Volvo after I had run the battery down a bit. It still did it; so does this indicate starter?

Mike, I had not tried shorting it out; a bit more challenging without a lift. I'm thinking of getting a volunteer to do this...he, he, he, he...

Prior to this, I never had a problem which is why I am leaning towards this being a starter issue. The battery consistently tests at between 12.3 and 12.2 so I am sure the battery isn't the issue. I'll try again tomorrow and start her with the headlights on and see if she dims significantly...provided I'm not snowed in. German weather says snow tomorrow; we'll see if it holds true.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jan 13 2013, 10:32 AM

Is that 12.3-2 with a load on the battery? If it drops significantly with a load then your battery is done. Also, the circuit to activate the starter can drop a significant amount of voltage, enough to cause this. This problem is fairly common.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2013, 11:49 AM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 13 2013, 08:32 AM) *

Is that 12.3-2 with a load on the battery? If it drops significantly with a load then your battery is done. Also, the circuit to activate the starter can drop a significant amount of voltage, enough to cause this. This problem is fairly common.

no, 12.3-2 no load. I'll try to hook it up to the Volvo again and see if there is a significant dim on the lights when I try to start her. Thanks for the feedback, it is helps a lot.

Posted by: Gint Jan 13 2013, 04:32 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 13 2013, 09:14 AM) *
Mike, I had not tried shorting it out; a bit more challenging without a lift. I'm thinking of getting a volunteer to do this...he, he, he, he...
I've done it laying on the ground outside the car. You don't need a lift. It is a little intimidating, lay on the ground, reaching your arm all the way under the car, short 12 volts, exhaust next to your head.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 13 2013, 05:48 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 13 2013, 09:49 AM) *

no, 12.3-2 no load.


That's a fairly drained battery. Should be more like 12.65V no load. (After a load is applied for a minute to bleed off the surface charge.)

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2013, 11:32 PM

Gint,
Yeah I was thinking about that; I may try that today.

Dave,
Thanks, I'll hook her up to the Volvo and see if she'll charge up enough to try again. Hopefully I won't be doing this in snow but we will see, not the first time I've worked on her in the snow. It'd be nicer if the friggin garage had power but the guy who built the house used the lowest bidder so the power to garage shorts every time it rains or is really cold. Needless to say, I stay out of the snow but tend to work in the dark a lot! smash.gif

Posted by: Ductech Jan 14 2013, 12:29 AM

Things that kicked my ass with the stock starter system...

1. old battery that drops to low voltage under a load.

2. bad ground connections.

3. too long of a positive supply wire.

4. age of the starter positive wire.

5. wear on the starter

These are the order of things... check all these. starter wear being really the last thing. I found that the original wire for the starter has had a hard life and sometimes never gets replaced. consider it good assurance to replace it eventually. I had a hot start issue that i thought was charge related and battery related. It mostly was the amount of draw when the motor was hot was too much for the old worn corroded cable to carry regardless of the state of the battery charge. And always check your ground cables/straps as people have mentioned.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2013, 06:38 AM

OK, I think the starter is officially dead. sad.gif I came home at lunch to see if I could get her to start. Hooked up the Volvo to the battery and had the wife run the RPMs up a bit, hit the ignition...Click. OK, put her in gear shove, she resists but rolls so the pinion gear doesn't seem to be stuck.

Pull off the ignition wire to the starter, put the E brake on, MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL, screwdriver in hand, crawl under...boy she sparks nicely! Scared the shit out of me! OK, calm down, try again, Click. It sounds like the solenoid is trying to push the gear forward but not having much success.

Well, screw it, lets see how much a new starter runs locally. Talked to the bane of free market existence otherwise known as AAFES. Yeah, they can get a starter, re manufactured one for $450! Are you assholes high?! ar15.gif

OK, I know it won't be much better however, lets call the local VW dealer. Yep, they can get it, it will take a week, they need the old starter and it's a bargain at a mere 450 Euros! lol-2.gif So basically, they want $600 for a starter. blink.gif

Well, looks like I just ordered the high torque one from PP and it cost me under $300. I can wait for it to get here. So the wiring harness from the battery to the starter is listed as NLA on PP; any recommendations on replacing it? I'll probably replace the battery too but won't do that until I install the new starter. When in doubt, replace all of it! lol-2.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 14 2013, 10:03 AM

I just used a big starter wire from my FLAPS, with a bolt-on terminal for the battery end. The wire came with a ring terminal at one end and bare wire at the other, and the terminal has a clamp that goes onto the bare end of the wire. There are extra wires that provide power to the rest of the car's systems, and I put ring terminals on those and put them under the bolts for the clamp-on terminal.

Here's a pic of the clamp-on type of terminal I mean:

IPB Image

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2013, 11:44 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 14 2013, 08:03 AM) *

I just used a big starter wire from my FLAPS, with a bolt-on terminal for the battery end. The wire came with a ring terminal at one end and bare wire at the other, and the terminal has a clamp that goes onto the bare end of the wire. There are extra wires that provide power to the rest of the car's systems, and I put ring terminals on those and put them under the bolts for the clamp-on terminal.

Here's a pic of the clamp-on type of terminal I mean:

IPB Image

--DD

She's got that clamp on terminal now. I see some serious electrical work when I strip her all the way down. We'll see how the new starter works first then tackle the battery and finally cable if need be. Thanks.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 23 2013, 09:47 AM

WOOHOO piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Starter came in! Fastest anything has come in from PP. Anyone have experience with the high torque starter?
Attached Image

From what I could tell, it is pretty much plug and play on this one. Hope to get to it this weekend, weather permitting. Ice and snow has finally started to melt but I think it is gonna be COLD! Which always makes it so much fun working in a frigid garage. dry.gif

Posted by: Millerwelds Jan 23 2013, 10:02 AM

Not sure which starter that is. Some of the high torque starters need to be shimmed. Mine came with a shim included. In my case I needed it. Other then that it is plug and play.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 23 2013, 10:32 AM

QUOTE(Millerwelds @ Jan 23 2013, 08:02 AM) *

Not sure which starter that is. Some of the high torque starters need to be shimmed. Mine came with a shim included. In my case I needed it. Other then that it is plug and play.

Its from IMI performance products; no shims included in the box.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 26 2013, 07:01 AM

OK, I got the starter put on. As I was working the starter to battery cable I hear 'CRACK!' WTF.gif Well, this isn't good. Cable housing just started to crack and come off. OK, pull it off the battery and off to ATU! As expected, the German's poor excuse for an auto parts store can't help me. rolleyes.gif At least this time however, they knew who could.

So I make my way down the street about 500M and there is a shop on the left called Jaeger Autotechnik und Elekronik. Walk in show the guy what I need and within 10 minutes he makes me a new one! SWEET! piratenanner.gif aktion035.gif

So back to the house, finish hooking it up. Crank her over, she tries to start a few times but the battery is a bit drained. Hook her up to the Volvo and crank a few times...bingo! We have ignition! I have the wife keep the RPMs up while I adjust the carbs a bit to get the right idle but she ain't cooperating. OK, wife's gotta go and take the munchkin to skating lessons. Disconnect the jumpers, turn the car off, re-check which way I'm turning the screws...oh yeah, wrong way dumbass! wacko.gif

Adjust back the other way, crank, she starts but the idle is still too low. Shut her off, adjust, crank again..That works! Now the idle is high but, she doesn't sputter and die when I come off the gas. Make some adjustments to bring the idle to 1500 RPMs, balance the carbs...and this is the result.
http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/?action=view¤t=P1030099.mp4

OK, so, lets back her out and check the shifting. Dang, not shifting quite right. Get out the book; read the directions on adjusting the linkage, make adjustments, nope. Still not right. So here is where I am at. Per the Haynes manual for cars pre-1973.

"1. Remove the inspection cover panel then loosen the clamp between the front shift rod and the connector rod.
2. Move the shift lever to neutral and rest the shift lever against the left stop.
3. Remove the dust cap on the transmission end of the rear shift rod and move the selector to the neutral position. Center the selector lever by sliding the rear shift rod, as necessary.
4. Tighten the front shift rod clamp then select 3rd gear with the shift lever. Check that the selector lever at the transmission is correctly engaged, readjusting if necessary.
5. Check the operation of the linkage during a test drive."

Well, I followed the directions but she still won't engage in first or 3rd. When I put her in what I am sure is 1st and start to release the clutch I get absolutely nothing. No grinding sound, no catching, nothing. When I popped her into what should have been third, she caught just a bit but then it felt like she, 'kicked' it out of gear. My assumption is that she is not going properly into gear.

So, does anyone have a picture of what it should look like when 3rd gear is properly engaged? I am pretty sure that I don't have the gear shift rod properly aligned. I followed Mike's instructions to the tee when I re-built the transmission so I am certain that this is not the issue. Any suggestions?

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jan 26 2013, 07:44 AM

There's always a bit of art to this.
I think your problem is in Step 4. You select 3rd gear with the lever and you don't get 3rd at the transmission. You're supposed to then adjust until you -do- engage the desired gear.

Pictures don't help much because all the cars are different - that's why it's an art and the instructions just say 'fiddle until it's right.'

Another alternative technique is to put the transmission into a known gear and then adjust the linkage so it's right. The standard technique tries for this with neutral, but that's a big vague area.

So if you can't hit 3rd, loosen the linkage, manually select 3rd at the hockey stick, and tighten it down. Verify you can still hit 2nd at the other end of the travel - usually you have to try to split the difference on the travel so you can hit both the 'up' and the 'down' gears.

Then, once you have the travel right, you concentrate on the 'twist' adjustment that aligns the 3 planes.

It's easy to get confused since you have the direction-reversing lever/pivot to deal with. Patience...

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 26 2013, 09:54 AM

OK, got her sorted. I pulled both gearshift rods apart and started from scratch. After tightening her I checked every position running from Reverse up to 5 to see where the rod at the trans was positioned. Tightened her down and gave it a whirl. WOOHOO! It works! beerchug.gif

Took her for a spin and stopped at the gas station to pump up the tires. The first trip was short, I had to come back because she was making a weird sound. I got back and, HOLY SHIT! ohmy.gif The rear left wheel was trying to fall off! All the damn lugs loosened up. OK, tighten, torque, check the other lugs. Try again, ahh much brtter! driving.gif Still high idling though, pull over and check the drivers side carb. Yup, dang accelerator pump on the carb is still sticking.

Get her home, back out the tiny nut and add some WD 40; that seems to have done the trick. I'll let her sit and try her again tomorrow. I need to check adjustment on the Emergency brake before I try to run her through inspection. Still no exhaust or oil leak that I can see so we are doing well thus far.

I'll re-torque the wheel nuts again tomorrow to make sure they are good then re-install the engine lid and adjust the E-brake. Lets see if she has any issues starting tomorrow. She definitely does not like the cold. I bet she was fine when she was still fuel injected, not a fan of carbs at the moment! ar15.gif

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jan 26 2013, 10:38 AM

QUOTE
She definitely does not like the cold. I bet she was fine when she was still fuel injected, not a fan of carbs at the moment!

And now you know why /6's came with a fast-idle/warmup control !

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 28 2013, 01:30 PM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Jan 26 2013, 08:38 AM) *

QUOTE
She definitely does not like the cold. I bet she was fine when she was still fuel injected, not a fan of carbs at the moment!

And now you know why /6's came with a fast-idle/warmup control !

Yep. She is starting, gives a bit of a fit but once she is warmed up she is good to go.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 28 2013, 01:47 PM

OK, failed inspection...knew it wasn't gonna pass though. dry.gif The primary culprit was the rear right brake with parking brake engaged. She just didn't hold. Of course the reverse lights and high beams didn't come on either. blink.gif Those caught me by surprise. No worries. I tore into the rear right brake and pulled the caliper as I adjusted the cable already and that is not the issue. This is what I found.

Attached Image
Attached Image

Yeah, pretty much toast. After doing the initial disassemble of the caliper I got stuck on how to get the piston out. Do a little search and BAM! THANK YOU ERIC SHEA! pray.gif pray.gif I came across his thread with the video that shows the tear down and reassembly with his kit. Well, Sorry Eric but I don't have time to order your full kit but I truly do appreciate the excellent video you did.

So I tore her down with the exception of the hand brake mechanism and pulling out the adjuster from the piston. You can see the 'gunk' at the bottom of both caliper bodies after the pistons are out.
Attached Image
Attached Image

Of course Eric makes it look easy, kinda like Mike makes it look easy in his gearbox rebuild. Got a good size gash up my left pointer finger from a slipped dental pick! sad.gif

So, I just have to finish cleaning everything up and then check to see if the local Porsche dealer can get me the basic rebuild kit. Since ATE is a German company I think this should be fairly easy... lol-2.gif Nothing in this friggin country is easy. rolleyes.gif

Quick question for the group or Eric whoever responds first, can I use lithium grease for the re-assembly or do I need to find assembly grease? Or, am I a dumbass and they are the same?



Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 28 2013, 06:34 PM

The dealer may not be able to get you a rebuild kit. The ones that are available over here are from some other car that has the right sized bits and pieces for the 914 rear caliper, and I don't know what car that is. It also doesn't have all of the parts for a complete rebuild (I think it's the E-brake mechanism bits that are lacking). Those have been reproduced or sourced alternately from someone else.

So you may be waiting for the kit from Eric anyway.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 28 2013, 11:28 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 28 2013, 04:34 PM) *

The dealer may not be able to get you a rebuild kit. The ones that are available over here are from some other car that has the right sized bits and pieces for the 914 rear caliper, and I don't know what car that is. It also doesn't have all of the parts for a complete rebuild (I think it's the E-brake mechanism bits that are lacking). Those have been reproduced or sourced alternately from someone else.

So you may be waiting for the kit from Eric anyway.

--DD

Dave,
Yeah, I know that the PP kit is just the dust cover and seals but at this point that is all I need. When I get her back stateside, I may pick up the big kit from Eric but it all depends on the future configuration of the car when I start the body off resto.

I have a couple of sources here that I'll ping today, if I can't get them quickly or affordable, I'll probably order them from the states.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 29 2013, 11:30 AM

OK, Christoph at Boxer motors was able to get me the basic kit with the seals. The Porsche dealer could only get me the retaining ring and protector cap. Long story short, they ordered it without me telling them to do so then got mad and 'banned' me from their dealership when I told them that I did not want it as I found a complete kit from somewhere else. blink.gif Really?

My neighbor was talking to them since his English wasn't that great he then told her that she couldn't shop there ever either. She told him, 'and? This is not a problem, I do not have a Porsche.' lol-2.gif

OH yeah, they were gonna charge me 27 Euro or about $30 for a set of retaining rings and dust caps. WTF.gif I'll pay about 25 euros for the kit from Chritoph which the wife will get from him tomorrow. Meanwhile I'll finish cleaning up the caliper body and prep everything to be put back together tomorrow. Once I get that back together I'll reinstall, bleed (UGH!) and adjust and see where that puts us. I'll rebuild the left side AFTER I get it back through inspection. Just gotta figure out the light problem.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jan 29 2013, 12:14 PM

QUOTE
the reverse lights and high beams didn't come on either.

With the ignition on, when you pull back on the flasher stalk, does the high-beam indicator light?

If yes, your problem is on the output side of the relay.
If no, it's the flasher switch, the lead to the relay, or the relay.

Do the reverse lights come on when you bridge / jumper the switch leads? If yes, switch is bad. If no, it is power to that circuit. IIRC (could be wrong, don't have a wiring diagram at hand) the power is shared with the license light circuit, so check that too. If it's separate, check the fuse.

The switch is easy to replace (and a fairly common failure) but the bullet connectors are _not_ common and you may have to fabricate something in case they're bad or missing. (But forgetting to reconnect the backup switch following a driveline replacement has been known to happen too...)

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 29 2013, 01:26 PM

QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Jan 29 2013, 10:14 AM) *

QUOTE
the reverse lights and high beams didn't come on either.

With the ignition on, when you pull back on the flasher stalk, does the high-beam indicator light?

If yes, your problem is on the output side of the relay.
If no, it's the flasher switch, the lead to the relay, or the relay.

Do the reverse lights come on when you bridge / jumper the switch leads? If yes, switch is bad. If no, it is power to that circuit. IIRC (could be wrong, don't have a wiring diagram at hand) the power is shared with the license light circuit, so check that too. If it's separate, check the fuse.

The switch is easy to replace (and a fairly common failure) but the bullet connectors are _not_ common and you may have to fabricate something in case they're bad or missing. (But forgetting to reconnect the backup switch following a driveline replacement has been known to happen too...)


Thanks, that will be helpful. I got the bullet connectors hooked up, what I couldn't tell is which bullet goes where or, does it matter?

The high beam indicator does light when pulled back so I'll take a look at the output side of the relay as you stated. I would like to get this sucker re-registered but it is not the end of the world if I can't resolve the light problem as I can ship the car in what is considered a 'non-op' status. It just has to move on its own power and the E-brake needs to work. Should have the caliper rebuilt tomorrow night and get things put back together this weekend.

My temp tags expire on 6 Feb so if I get things sorted this weekend I should be good to go.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jan 29 2013, 03:01 PM

QUOTE
which bullet goes where or, does it matter?

It's a switch - it does not matter.
On the high beams - if the low beams do not shut off when the highs are on, it's almost certainly the relay. The blue indicator comes from the relay, so you know the signal is getting from the column switch to the relay.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jan 29 2013, 09:29 PM

A common problem with the back-up lights is that the pin that activates the switch wears and winds up too short to activate it. I have heard of people making new pins out of appropriate-sized drill bits...

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 29 2013, 11:31 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 29 2013, 07:29 PM) *

A common problem with the back-up lights is that the pin that activates the switch wears and winds up too short to activate it. I have heard of people making new pins out of appropriate-sized drill bits...

--DD

Thanks Dave, don't suppose you know how long the pin is supposed to be do you?

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 30 2013, 12:43 PM

Dangit! headbang.gif I had gotten everything put together for the caliper and was trying to get the spring for the e-brake in when I noticed that the piston was no longer pushing forward when the lever was actuated. It was working before I put on the retaining ring what the hell!

OK, back out the plug, stick a 4mm allen head in there, turn...nothing. I recall Eric, in his video, mentioning that sometimes they get stuck so when you pull in the piston, back it out a bit. I did that, then adjusted it to get the retaining clip on...looks like I didn't back it out again. So now what? Eric stated that when this happens you need to use a high speed air wrench to get it out. I pulled the retaining ring and dust cover off of it and can shoot over to the auto hobby shop tomorrow but, just want to make sure what it is I need to do.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 30 2013, 01:06 PM

NEVERMIND! I get frustrated so post; then, after I post, I think of an idea, try it and, it usually works. dry.gif

Dowsed it with penetrating oil, let it soak for a bit, turn her over and whack the backside with a hammer a couple of times to loosen it up. Put the adjusting gear in and turn...wella!

Pulled the piston all the way out and cleaned everything up again. Will re-assemble tomorrow and make sure I don't make the same mistake. If I had any sense, I would have sold this car a year after I got it! Well, no one said I had much sense. Besides, I do like a challenge blink.gif

Just ignore the short Chinese guy pretending to be a mechanic...nothing to see...move along... rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 1 2013, 10:16 AM

OK, caliper is back together and installed. I evidently didn't do a good job of stopping brake fluid from leaking after I pulled the caliper. dry.gif Bit of a mess to clean up before I got everything put back together.

Needless to say, I need to add fluid tomorrow and bleed the brakes. After that, I'll do the final adjustments and set clearance between the pad and rotor. Haynes says .008 inches, does that sound correct? After that I'll start checking and adjusting the hand brake. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow and I can then tackle the electrical issue with the lights.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 1 2013, 01:58 PM

I use 0.004", I think the 0.008" is too loose. At least, for my taste.

--DD

Posted by: Cupomeat Feb 1 2013, 05:33 PM

This is a very impressive thread!

YOu have handled adversity like a champ and still fighting toward that goal...

I am impressed!!! first.gif

Posted by: TJB/914 Feb 1 2013, 06:26 PM

QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Feb 1 2013, 06:33 PM) *

This is a very impressive thread!

YOu have handled adversity like a champ and still fighting toward that goal...

I am impressed!!! first.gif


agree.gif
Every time Stephen posts I can't wait to see how he handles issue's. I feel safe knowing the military is protecting our homefront with guys like Stepehen.
Tom

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 12:56 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Feb 1 2013, 11:58 AM) *

I use 0.004", I think the 0.008" is too loose. At least, for my taste.

--DD

Thanks Dave, I'll try that. I had originally adjusted to .008 before I called it quits and adjusted the handbrake cable as well. The pistons are working but not holding solid as you can still force the tire to spin by hand.

I was thinking that a lack of fluid in the system may be the issue so I will tackle that first then re-adjust. I'll need to shoot down to Polo-Motorrad and grab a vacuum bleeder. I have one but, as is the story of my existence in Germany, it's in storage. dry.gif

I figure I can always use a spare biggrin.gif I find in interesting that I can get more tools from the motorcycle store than the crappy version of NAPA called ATU here in Germany. With any luck, I'll resolve all issues with the car today and then try to get it re-inspected on Monday. first.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 08:32 AM

OK, first issue resolved. Brakes bled and hand brake adjusted to .004 inch clearance per DDs recommendation. Good to go! piratenanner.gif

Now on to electrical. Three questions.

1. pin length for the reverse light indicator switch, what should it be? The switch is working the pin isn't long enough. PO just stuck in a short 'roll' pin.

2. Parking lights. What color wire goes to the male connector in this picture? Is it the grey wire in the picture below?
Attached Image
Attached Image

3. Final question, low beam and high beam. Which switch triggers the high beam? Is it part of the main switch, i.e. you pull it out once it is low beam, you pull it out again and it is high beam. Or is it the switch next to it that lights up green when you pull it out?

The first position gives me headlamps but they are really low, the second position gives me very bright lamps. Just making sure that I am not a dumbass and that their was never an issue other than my old ass forgetting what made the high beams come on.

Posted by: dlee6204 Feb 2 2013, 08:46 AM

2. Parking Lamps


Attached Image

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

Posted by: dlee6204 Feb 2 2013, 08:49 AM

3. Headlights.... You pull the main switch once to get your running lights. You pull it all the way out to get low beams. You pull the turn signal stalk to get high beams.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 09:25 AM

QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Feb 2 2013, 06:49 AM) *

3. Headlights.... You pull the main switch once to get your running lights. You pull it all the way out to get low beams. You pull the turn signal stalk to get high beams.


Thanks Doug, that answers 2 of the 3 questions! biggrin.gif I forgot about Jeff's site, headbang.gif and I have it bookmarked. confused24.gif

I'll work the parking light issue while I wait for some input on the reverse switch pin length answer.

Posted by: dlee6204 Feb 2 2013, 09:50 AM

I just checked a switch I have and the pin was 28mm. smile.gif You'll probably have to fine tune yours to fit.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 10:00 AM

QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Feb 2 2013, 07:50 AM) *

I just checked a switch I have and the pin was 28mm. smile.gif You'll probably have to fine tune yours to fit.

Thanks, now to find me a sacrificial drill bit! I got a bunch just gotta choose one. biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 11:06 AM

OK, reverse lights fixed! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Cut a drill bit back end to 30mm, too long, cut it to 28mm, Doug's measurement, BINGO! So the three issues that failed the car were:
1. Right rear brake not holding with E-Brake engaged. FIXED
2. No high lights. FIXED (cause I'm a dumbass dry.gif )
3. Reverse lights not coming on. FIXED

They didn't fail me for no parking lamps but I'll work on fixing that tomorrow. I plan on trying to get her inspected again on Monday, just in time for the snow! At least she's still got winter tires on her.

I measured the pin that was in the transmission for the reverse switch...18mm blink.gif HALF of the length it is supposed to be! WTF.gif

So the last item is the parking lamps which should not be an issue since it is fairly evident they are just missing the connection from the wire to the lamp assembly. Heater motor doesn't seem to be working but that is a minor issue, I can drive with a big jacket on! happy11.gif

Posted by: dlee6204 Feb 2 2013, 11:22 AM

Good work! thumb3d.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 2 2013, 11:24 AM

QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Feb 2 2013, 09:22 AM) *

Good work! thumb3d.gif

A great many thanks on your input. beerchug.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 3 2013, 11:19 AM

FINISHED! For now at least. biggrin.gif

The PO had left the connectors for the parking lights intact however, he had taped them off. The wires were too short to fit through the boot to the assembly so I cut and spliced a longer length of wire on her and put on new connectors. Wella! We have parking lights! aktion035.gif

They didn't fail me for them last time but if I get a different inspector, they might. I think I am safe though as I believe the only thing they will re-check is the three things they failed me on. High beams, Reverse lights and parking brake.

I did re-key the driver's side lock so she opens with the key, talk about tedious. wacko.gif I still have to do the passenger door but that is low priority. If she passes tomorrow I'll be a happy camper especially since there is supposed to be snow all this week. We'll see how things go tomorrow.

Christoph is supposed to email me when the other rebuild kit comes in; I have kits for the front as well but will wait till I get back stateside to rebuild those as I'll have ALL my tools and equipment once I get back. I'll run her like she is until I get the MG put back together. Then, depending on how long it takes me, I'll tear the teener all the way down to nothing. A lot depends on whether I am getting ready for my final move or not. I have a three year commitment at the next job, actually only one year but I plan on running it out until at least October 2016. That will put me at my 30 year mark for active duty retirement. I'll post on how things went tomorrow, wish me luck!

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 4 2013, 05:02 AM

Houston...we have lift off! cheer.gif driving.gif

She was covered in snow this morning but started up fitfully as was expected. Once warm it was off to Panzer Kaserne to get the inspection. Hit a major jam on the Autobahn.. headbang.gif Only problem is when you go slow...the windshield fogs up! Definitely need to fix the blower motor but I can ride with the windows down, just gotta keep them up enough so the snow doesn't get me! blink.gif

When it was my turn I went out and warmed up the car while the inspector had a smoke break. He asked about he car year and we talked a bit about it then he took my paperwork and did his checks. I stood outside watching and holding my breath as the back wheels went on the spinner and he engaged the parking brake.

Up to the front of the inspection garage on the left there is a large dual analog gauge that measures braking force...Right side locked! Gauge displayed 150 on the left and 200! on the right! WOOHOO! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif That was my biggest concern and that went off without a hitch. I'll rebuild the left rear brake when the kit comes in but she's good for now.

The RPMs are still a bit high but I think it is based on the carb linkage. I think I need to adjust both sides a bit to elongate it when the throttle is realeased to fully close both butterflys. I think the linkage is not fully returning to proper idle position. I'll tackle that this weekend. In the meantime, I'm just gonna break her in and drive her around this week in the lovely snow here in Germany.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 4 2013, 11:26 AM

I swear ta god if I actually find Murphy and his gremlin little ass I am going to beat the holy hell out of him! chair.gif chair.gif

Got home, closed the door, turned the key to lock it and.....ya know that sound of a bolt dropping into the engine compartment? blink.gif Shit.

The 10mm nut on the door handle securing it to the door came off and fell between the door and body. Well crap. OK, unlock it and go find it...OK, Unlock it and go find it...OK, UNFUCKING LOCK IT AND GO FIND IT!!! I can't unlock the door so, I can't open it. Calm down, walk to the house, grab some tools, wife comes home, she wants to yap...I am not really in my I wanna listen to her mode.

Go back out to the car and, work on keeping the door handle assembly stationary while I turn the key. After about minute I manage to get her unlocked. Get in and drive it to the house. I have to park on the street if I want to use the car.

Pull the assembly off and well, it wasn't just the nut.
Attached Image
Attached Image
OK, that sucks. No problem, drill out the hole all the way through, get an M5 bolt and nut, check the length, now re-assemble.

This works; it ain't pretty but it works.
Attached Image

Other than that, not a bad day.


Posted by: Spoke Feb 4 2013, 11:37 AM

Congrats on the inspection passing.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 17 2013, 10:27 AM

OK, after a week in the Alps learning to snowboard, did a header on the last day! No broken bones but a good sprained right wrist and very well bruised chest from the left clavicle up that hurts like hell! Now, I'm ready to tackle some final adjustments and rebuild the left rear caliper. Question, I checked the oil right before I left and it was pretty low. After a week of driving I was quite surprised how low the oil was. No leaks, any thoughts?

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 18 2013, 09:36 AM

So, I took the time to work on adjusting the carburetor linkage this afternoon as I believe that this was part of the high idle problem. Bingo! No more high idle. beerchug.gif

I adjusted the idle to the recommended 900 rpm then shut her off and used the PP template to find 27 Deg BTDC. I then enlisted the wife's help to check timing. She got her as close to 3200 RPM as possible and kept it as steady as she could and I adjusted the timing to 27 BTDC then locked down the dizzy. I read quite a few threads on the optimal timing for a carbed motor and also looked at the PP article. I think I am between 27 and 30 at 3200 with her running at about 6 BTDC at idle.

Took her out for a spin on the autobahn, much better! driving.gif No more backfire at 60 or 80 mph and very smooth acceleration from zero to 60. I think I still need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as 1st is being a bit difficult but I can work that later.

I am having a bit of a challenge balancing the carbs though. I have a synch meter but just can't quite get them to synch up. I am betting I don't have both sides of the carb linkage equally set, I'll tackle that later and measure each linkage to make sure they are sitting at the same length between carb and linkage rod. dry.gif

I picked up the left rear caliper rebuild kit this morning and had Christoph order me a set of rubber side seals for the targa top. They should be in tomorrow. I just have to focus now on cleaning the car up in preparation for shipment. I'll work that this week after I catch up to things at work. Need to do as much as I can this week as I fly to Africa again on Saturday and will be there for 2 weeks so my time is limited. I currently have the car scheduled to be dropped off for shipment on 20 March. I just have to clean every little speck of dirt I can find in the cab out. I'll tackle the left rear brake rebuild after I get back from my trip.

Posted by: Cupomeat Feb 18 2013, 10:02 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 17 2013, 11:27 AM) *

OK, after a week in the Alps learning to snowboard, did a header on the last day! No broken bones but a good sprained right wrist and very well bruised chest from the left clavicle up that hurts like hell! Now, I'm ready to tackle some final adjustments and rebuild the left rear caliper. Question, I checked the oil right before I left and it was pretty low. After a week of driving I was quite surprised how low the oil was. No leaks, any thoughts?


Not sure about this, but don't jump to any conclusions yet.

Get the oil to the line (baseline) and keep checking it after each run for changes (only after the car sits for a minute).
Report back after a few runs to see what has changed. Newly rebuilt motors tend to burn more oil until the rings seat, but not sure how many km you've run since the rebuild.

Posted by: r_towle Feb 18 2013, 06:19 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 18 2013, 10:36 AM) *

So, I took the time to work on adjusting the carburetor linkage this afternoon as I believe that this was part of the high idle problem. Bingo! No more high idle. beerchug.gif

I adjusted the idle to the recommended 900 rpm then shut her off and used the PP template to find 27 Deg BTDC. I then enlisted the wife's help to check timing. She got her as close to 3200 RPM as possible and kept it as steady as she could and I adjusted the timing to 27 BTDC then locked down the dizzy. I read quite a few threads on the optimal timing for a carbed motor and also looked at the PP article. I think I am between 27 and 30 at 3200 with her running at about 6 BTDC at idle.

Took her out for a spin on the autobahn, much better! driving.gif No more backfire at 60 or 80 mph and very smooth acceleration from zero to 60. I think I still need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as 1st is being a bit difficult but I can work that later.

I am having a bit of a challenge balancing the carbs though. I have a synch meter but just can't quite get them to synch up. I am betting I don't have both sides of the carb linkage equally set, I'll tackle that later and measure each linkage to make sure they are sitting at the same length between carb and linkage rod. dry.gif

I picked up the left rear caliper rebuild kit this morning and had Christoph order me a set of rubber side seals for the targa top. They should be in tomorrow. I just have to focus now on cleaning the car up in preparation for shipment. I'll work that this week after I catch up to things at work. Need to do as much as I can this week as I fly to Africa again on Saturday and will be there for 2 weeks so my time is limited. I currently have the car scheduled to be dropped off for shipment on 20 March. I just have to clean every little speck of dirt I can find in the cab out. I'll tackle the left rear brake rebuild after I get back from my trip.

To sync them, consider removing both drop links from the carbs.
that is the linkage that connects the cross bar arms to the carbs.

With that off, then sync the carbs.
If they are not in sync, consider adjusting your valves again.
Then use the small lower air screw at the bottom side of each venturi (bottom of the carbs, screw with jam nut on it)
This allows you to sync the carbs to each other.
each carb should match front and rear.

Once this is complete, put the linkage back in place and sync each carb to the other carb.

You sometimes need to start at the beginning to gets carbs right.

The motor is an air pump.
All four cylinders, at idle, warm, should pump the same amount of air.
If the carbs are setup properly, at idle, with no linkage, you should be able to measure the same airflow through each carb.

You need that to work first.
Get the car warm with the linkage in place.
Let it idle.
then remove BOTH drop links...they cause friction in some cases.
Then measure the airflow.

If you find a large variation at idle, with no linkage attached...you may have an air leak you need to find.
This could be manifold leak, head to cylinder leak, or a poorly adjusted valve.
All matter.

The drop links on each side will end up different lengths just based upon geometry...and that is fine.
You need idle to be perfect.

From there, the cross bar linkage is a compromise that will never be perfect across the whole range of motion..
The best setup I have seen to date (I have tried most of them) is the cable system that Chris Foley manufactures and sells.
It is super accurate, and its simple to adjust.




rich

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 18 2013, 11:03 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 18 2013, 04:19 PM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 18 2013, 10:36 AM) *

So, I took the time to work on adjusting the carburetor linkage this afternoon as I believe that this was part of the high idle problem. Bingo! No more high idle. beerchug.gif

I adjusted the idle to the recommended 900 rpm then shut her off and used the PP template to find 27 Deg BTDC. I then enlisted the wife's help to check timing. She got her as close to 3200 RPM as possible and kept it as steady as she could and I adjusted the timing to 27 BTDC then locked down the dizzy. I read quite a few threads on the optimal timing for a carbed motor and also looked at the PP article. I think I am between 27 and 30 at 3200 with her running at about 6 BTDC at idle.

Took her out for a spin on the autobahn, much better! driving.gif No more backfire at 60 or 80 mph and very smooth acceleration from zero to 60. I think I still need to adjust the shift linkage a bit as 1st is being a bit difficult but I can work that later.

I am having a bit of a challenge balancing the carbs though. I have a synch meter but just can't quite get them to synch up. I am betting I don't have both sides of the carb linkage equally set, I'll tackle that later and measure each linkage to make sure they are sitting at the same length between carb and linkage rod. dry.gif

I picked up the left rear caliper rebuild kit this morning and had Christoph order me a set of rubber side seals for the targa top. They should be in tomorrow. I just have to focus now on cleaning the car up in preparation for shipment. I'll work that this week after I catch up to things at work. Need to do as much as I can this week as I fly to Africa again on Saturday and will be there for 2 weeks so my time is limited. I currently have the car scheduled to be dropped off for shipment on 20 March. I just have to clean every little speck of dirt I can find in the cab out. I'll tackle the left rear brake rebuild after I get back from my trip.

To sync them, consider removing both drop links from the carbs.
that is the linkage that connects the cross bar arms to the carbs.

With that off, then sync the carbs.
If they are not in sync, consider adjusting your valves again.
Then use the small lower air screw at the bottom side of each venturi (bottom of the carbs, screw with jam nut on it)
This allows you to sync the carbs to each other.
each carb should match front and rear.

Once this is complete, put the linkage back in place and sync each carb to the other carb.

You sometimes need to start at the beginning to gets carbs right.

The motor is an air pump.
All four cylinders, at idle, warm, should pump the same amount of air.
If the carbs are setup properly, at idle, with no linkage, you should be able to measure the same airflow through each carb.

You need that to work first.
Get the car warm with the linkage in place.
Let it idle.
then remove BOTH drop links...they cause friction in some cases.
Then measure the airflow.

If you find a large variation at idle, with no linkage attached...you may have an air leak you need to find.
This could be manifold leak, head to cylinder leak, or a poorly adjusted valve.
All matter.

The drop links on each side will end up different lengths just based upon geometry...and that is fine.
You need idle to be perfect.

From there, the cross bar linkage is a compromise that will never be perfect across the whole range of motion..
The best setup I have seen to date (I have tried most of them) is the cable system that Chris Foley manufactures and sells.
It is super accurate, and its simple to adjust.




rich

Rich,
Great info and write up. I will give that a shot when I return from my trip unless I have time before I go, thanks a lot. beer.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2013, 12:56 AM

I'm baaaaaaaaaaack! evilgrin.gif

After two weeks in Africa I got back this past Saturday and it was relatively warm for one day then...BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!! WTF.gif

I got a nice tan in Malawi, not so much back here in lovely Germany where it is currently 19 friggin degrees! In March!! At least the damn snow finally went away after dumping about an inch on us yesterday. I want to go back to Africa where it is warm!!! hissyfit.gif

OK, enough bitchin. I didn't get anything done this week other than pick up new targa top seals from Christoph yesterday, I've been neck deep in a final planning conference all week and the Frau has been stateside lining up housing and schools for our move. Looks like we'll be living in the Green Briar area of Chesapeake and moving into the new house sometime mid-June. In the meantime, I've been a single parent so its been a bit hectic.

Today I will start the process of tearing the car apart and cleaning every last bit of dirt I can find from the interior and the trunks. I'll then start on replacing the targa seals and tackle the carb balancing last. I'm hoping it will warm up when I tackle the carbs since she doesn't like the cold much.

Since they are draconian on the Agriculture inspection, i'm seriously thinking about pulling the carpeting out in its entirety. No carpet, no dirt! We'll see, I will pull the seats first then make the assessment. I'll post pics after I get done today. Now if any of you have some nice warm weather you'd like to share with Germany, I'm all for it! rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 18 2013, 07:23 AM

Well now, I got most of what needed done on Saturday with the exception of trying to synch the carbs. I underestimated the amount of work I needed to do to clean out all the dirt and get the carb ready for shipment. Here are the before and after pictures.
Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image
As one can clearly see, a lot of work to be done! After working on it all day, I finally wound up with this.
Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image

I bought a cheap set of rubber mats to keep it from getting dirty at Toom this morning.
Attached Image
It's not a perfect fit but it will work.

I tackled the carb synch this morning and...failed miserably! Clearly there exists the other issues that Rich alluded too but, I don't have the time to fix it properly. For now, she runs. Well enough to get her on the boat and off the boat. I'll run her to the auto hobby shop tomorrow afternoon to finalize the cleaning then, with luck, I will drop it off on Wednesday for shipment to Norfolk.

Once I get to Norfolk, I'll tackle the carb issue but not until then. I'll post my success or failure after Wednesday and then this thread will go dormant for a couple of months until I can work on her again once I get stateside.

I did find a mess of wires that went absolutely nowhere once I pulled the carpet up. I think they were originally for the speakers and radio. I'm so looking forward to tearing this down to the bare metal and starting from scratch. Then I'll know exactly what goes where and why as opposed to the disaster that it currently is. dry.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 20 2013, 10:03 AM

Well, it passed the ag inspection! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif I had to do some minor wipe downs to get at some dirt but other than that, she is sitting in the outbound lot waiting for a truck to take her to Bremerhaven. From there, she heads to Portsmouth, VA on a ship and will be in on or about 6 May 2013. I told the guy I won't be in Norfolk until June but, since it is due to my deployment to Africa, it is not a problem.

The right headlight did get some water in it from my washing at the self wash. dry.gif Hopefully it dries out and works when it gets to VA. Otherwise, I'll be needing a new headlamp. For now, this thread is on hold until I get to VA and get settled. See y'all stateside soon! aktion035.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 8 2013, 03:44 PM

Well, I'm now in Norfolk, Va. We got in on the 5th and I picked the car up on the 6th. The turn signals wouldn't work and the battery was deader than a door nail. So I jumped her at the distribution center and went straight to the nearest auto store, Pep Boys, and bought a new battery.

Made it back to the hotel and took the time today to see if I can sort out the problem with the lights. Well...COROSION! the entire inside of the turn signal socket and the bulb base were green. sad.gif I cleaned it off best I could but it wasn't really enough so I will have to replace that part of the assembly but, I don't think anyone makes just that part anymore. I put in an an inquiry on a car being parted out on the forum to see if the turn signal assemblies are in good condition and still available.

Now the other problem is that the there is a short somewhere and the left light keeps popping up and down when the light knob is pushed in. Anyone have this issue before?

Then I tried to start the car, it is being difficult. No problem, I'll try again tomorrow. Basically, she didn't like the trip overseas on a boat. Guess I got my work cut out for me. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage until 20 June. Say la vie. happy11.gif



Posted by: okieflyr Jun 8 2013, 06:25 PM

Welcome back! I'm sure you have alot of other things going on, but at least you've got some summer to sort things out and enjoy the car. driving.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 9 2013, 09:01 AM

QUOTE(okieflyr @ Jun 8 2013, 04:25 PM) *

Welcome back! I'm sure you have alot of other things going on, but at least you've got some summer to sort things out and enjoy the car. driving.gif


I think the summer is gonna be consumed with getting settled. At least I will have a decent garage to work on the car in. piratenanner.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 9 2013, 09:12 AM

OK, so I went to Advanced Auto and grabbed a can of starter fluid to see if I could get her cranked over today. Nope sad.gif

She turns but she just isn't catching. Unfortunately, I'm operating out of a hotel so don't have any tools or room to really trouble shoot things. The issue is that I won't have a car to get back and forth to work with this week so the wife will have to drop me off unless I can find someone that I can car pool in with. I'll work that angle today.

She started fine the day I picked her up, a bit rough, but started. She sat outside during a rather rough rain storm, any thoughts that water could have gotten in somewhere?

Not a big deal, I'll move her to the new house in the garage and work on her after I get my tools. Shit happens, i'm not stressing a deadline or inspection as I was in Germany. If my temp tags from Germany expire before I get her up and running that is fine, I'll register her when she is operational. Just another speed bump enroute to the final destination, annoying but not mission stopping. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 15 2013, 08:21 AM

OK, I got a chance to work on the car Monday then tackled it again yesterday. Long story short, I got a short somewhere in the wiring and I have no spark.

Tested the #1 plug first by pulling the plug and grounding it, no spark. I then used an inline spark tester with the plug back in the car, no light. Next used the inline tester to check the coil wire grounding it best I can, I got a light which indicates the coil is OK.

I also check the plug wire to make sure that I didn't have a break in the wire. I didn't have a specific wire tester so I did the standard ohms check with the multi-meter. Wire checked out OK.

Working backwards this would imply that the dizzy cap is bad or the rotor. Joy. mad.gif

I also discovered, after I pulled the key, that the left rear tail light was on and would not shut off. When the light switch was pulled, only the right side lamp came up. Dang. dry.gif Needless to say I now know why my battery got drained but now I have the joy of troubleshooting the electrical system WHICH I AM NOT VERY GOOD AT!! headbang.gif

Any advice from the collective before I head down this road?? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: r_towle Aug 15 2013, 05:41 PM

Blinker left engaged becomes a parking light on forever.
See if that was it.

Check for 12vdc at the coil with the key in the run position...may be a fuse got knocked out or may be the ignition switch is broken from all the kind people that have touched your car.

Rich

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 15 2013, 06:31 PM

be sure the center contact inside the cap is not worn down. it's spring loaded and when it's worn to it's limit it works sometimes, sometimes not. ask me how I know. RRC 2011 dry.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Aug 15 2013, 06:56 PM

I'll do the checks this Sunday; I'm off to the hunt club to do some maintenance work on stands, etc. I'm quite excited that I get to hunt again!! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif

I should have the garage set up by the end of Sunday to put the the other car into the garage which will give me more room to work on the Porsche. Thanks for the input beerchug.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 8 2013, 06:40 AM

The madness has taken hold... blink.gif

Soooo, i've been doing a lot of research and was torn between trying to find a Porsche 6 Cyl or converting to a Subi motor. I looked around for motors, both Porsche and Subaru, and found three in the VA Beach area that I can pull from junked cars. I found 0, nada, null, kein motor, for the Porsche in a salvage yard. Yes, I know I can get them on Ebay and the like but they want an arm and a leg.

So, I believe I will go with the Subaru conversion. Now, to make sure I pull everything I need, I would like some feedback. It is my understanding that when I pull the motor, I must also pull the ECU and wiring harness to replace what I currently have. Is this a correct understanding of what is required? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: mepstein Oct 8 2013, 06:42 AM

SVX's are cheap. $400-2500 for a running car. There are always plenty around.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 8 2013, 07:59 AM

That depends on what you use. If you go Suby you can go OEM or AM ECU. Either way you will retain some of the OG wiring. I'm using the Suby engine harness (cut 'n spliced) and Suby ECU in combination with the OG wiring. If you have room I'd suggest buying an entire donor car that runs. You can shop for several Suby's @ http://www.copart.com/c2/copart_salvage_auto_auctions_car_finder.html. Find one with side or rear end damage. Avoid the head ons.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 8 2013, 12:25 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 8 2013, 05:59 AM) *

That depends on what you use. If you go Suby you can go OEM or AM ECU. Either way you will retain some of the OG wiring. I'm using the Suby engine harness (cut 'n spliced) and Suby ECU in combination with the OG wiring. If you have room I'd suggest buying an entire donor car that runs. You can shop for several Suby's @ http://www.copart.com/c2/copart_salvage_auto_auctions_car_finder.html. Find one with side or rear end damage. Avoid the head ons.


The pictures of the ones in VA beach look like they are primarily side or rear damage vehicles. I need to go down to their yard and have a look at them to make an initial assessment. Soooooo, what are partially converted 2.0 Type IV motors going for nowadays??? Figure I might as well sell my motor to partially finance the conversion. happy11.gif

Posted by: 914forme Oct 8 2013, 02:00 PM

Yes SVXs are cheap, yet remember they are the only ones to use the EG33 motor, so after market support is not there as it is for the -4s. that being said, they are a sweet motor to have backed by a WRX 5MT. SVXs only came in autos over here. If your lucky you can find one that a person has swapped a 5MT into out of WRX already.

Get engine, all peripherals, harness, engine to ECU harness, ECU. If its a WRX grab the 5MT out of it also. Get the CVs and axles, anything else you think you might need. If you can get a whole clip that is always nice. I guess if you going 2.5 you can also grab the tranny, depending on the model and year they can have a very low final drive, and a short 5th gear.

My self, I looked in Craigslist, got a SVX, picked up a 5MT out of KY, and then grabbed another EG33 out of another yard. All told I have a 2K in this setup with a running SVX, that is currently my daily. Only issue is I really like the SVX, it is a fine driver. Even at the 1000 price point, it is still plenty fun every day. I am looking at finding another 5MT to put in the SVX. driving.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 8 2013, 02:27 PM

OK, so the VA Beach pick and pull yard has two Subaru's.

1997 Legacy wagon with a 2.5L H4 motor
1992 Legacy sedan with a 2.2L H4 motor

Cost for motor and all accessories roughly $200-250.

I'm leaning towards the 2.5L motor, thoughts from the collective?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 8 2013, 03:29 PM

The 2.5s evidently love to blow head gaskets... And a huge PITA if/when they do.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 8 2013, 04:27 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 8 2013, 01:29 PM) *

The 2.5s evidently love to blow head gaskets... And a huge PITA if/when they do.

--DD

hmm, I'll have to look that bit of info up before making a decision, thanks Dave.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 8 2013, 06:28 PM

OK, while I'm having these maddening thoughts...could I pull the entire power train, motor and tranny, from the legacy and convert the tranny to RWD?

I have been perusing many of the threads that talk about the conversion from an AWD to RWD tranny vice an adapter kit for the subi to 901 requirement. Since I have a tail shifter, I would think that the Subi conversion would shift better than my current set up.

Thoughts? Is this a bridge too far? idea.gif

Posted by: 914forme Oct 8 2013, 06:37 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 8 2013, 05:29 PM) *

The 2.5s evidently love to blow head gaskets... And a huge PITA if/when they do.

--DD

av-943.gif Dave, you remember when your type-4 dropped a valve seat. That was also a PITA was it not.

Point being not to give Dave to much crap for his issues, we have all had them, its part of owning mechanical devices. I would go 2.5L, easier to find parts as the 2.2s are getting a little older.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 8 2013, 06:39 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 8 2013, 08:28 PM) *

OK, while I'm having these maddening thoughts...could I pull the entire power train, motor and tranny, from the legacy and convert the tranny to RWD?

I have been perusing many of the threads that talk about the conversion from an AWD to RWD tranny vice an adapter kit for the subi to 901 requirement. Since I have a tail shifter, I would think that the Subi conversion would shift better than my current set up.

Thoughts? Is this a bridge too far? idea.gif


Answer is do it happy11.gif you will regret it latter if you don't.

Posted by: Spoke Oct 8 2013, 07:50 PM

I had a '96 2.5L Legacy and it blew the head gasket and warped the head. Put in a used engine and it too had a blown head gasket. A third engine was fine. I sold the car immediately afterwards.

Apparently the head gasket issue was fixed in the '98 or '99 model year.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 9 2013, 08:22 AM

QUOTE(Spoke @ Oct 8 2013, 05:50 PM) *

I had a '96 2.5L Legacy and it blew the head gasket and warped the head. Put in a used engine and it too had a blown head gasket. A third engine was fine. I sold the car immediately afterwards.

Apparently the head gasket issue was fixed in the '98 or '99 model year.

I found a good article about the problem and the solution which was a new modified head gasket that eliminated this issue. Question remains though, pull with or without Subi gearbox? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 9 2013, 09:51 AM

OK, so a guy I teach with is a fellow gearhead however, he is into Buicks. He gave me a site to do searches for parts on and I found a complete running 1.8 with FI motor for 300. idea.gif I also found a side shift tranny however, it is just the trans and none of the other components. SOOOOO, how easy is it to get the rest of the components to convert my tailshifter to the side shift setup and is $500 a reasonable price for the tranny? I was thinking of $300 because he doesn't have any of the other components. Thoughts?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 9 2013, 11:30 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 8 2013, 05:37 PM) *
Dave, you remember when your type-4 dropped a valve seat. That was also a PITA was it not.


Which time? There've been three of them so far.... dry.gif At least I got a lot faster at dropping the engine and tearing the heads off...

(BTW, I haven't owned a Scooby. But I know at least two people personally who have had the 2.5 engines with head gasket problems, and have read about many more.)

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 10 2013, 02:51 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 9 2013, 09:30 PM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 8 2013, 05:37 PM) *
Dave, you remember when your type-4 dropped a valve seat. That was also a PITA was it not.


Which time? There've been three of them so far.... dry.gif At least I got a lot faster at dropping the engine and tearing the heads off...

(BTW, I haven't owned a Scooby. But I know at least two people personally who have had the 2.5 engines with head gasket problems, and have read about many more.)

--DD

For now I have to put a hold on the Subi conversion. I picked up a side shift gearbox so need to get that converted over first. If I can find a 2.0 head and a decent FI system I may just stick with that. I did read your long post on hydraulic lifters in the PP forum. My work buddy was suggesting that we transition the motor to a hydraulic lifter set up so I was just doing some research and found your post on the PP thread. Interesting read.

I have way to many ideas and not enough time, sense or money to bring them all to fruition. I really need to re-focus my efforts to finishing off one project at a time on this car! happy11.gif

Posted by: r_towle Oct 10 2013, 09:14 PM

Well,

You need a shifter
Front rod
Rear rod
Engine mount brackets for motor
Engine mount bar
Special conversion bushing for firewall
All new other bushings, buy the kit and toss the firewall bushing
Rear shifter coupler
Rear shift console plastic cover and metal clamp

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 11 2013, 06:25 AM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 10 2013, 07:14 PM) *

Well,

You need a shifter
Front rod
Rear rod
Engine mount brackets for motor
Engine mount bar
Special conversion bushing for firewall
All new other bushings, buy the kit and toss the firewall bushing
Rear shifter coupler
Rear shift console plastic cover and metal clamp

Yeah, I'm in the process of tracking those items down. The guy here in Norfolk may have all of those parts. I sent him what I needed and will link up with him this Saturday to see what I can find in his stash. I think he's a 914 parts hoarder. blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 11 2013, 06:34 AM

So the guy I am buying the gearbox from also has a 2.4 six cyl that has been sitting for 2 years. He said he has a set of Nicksil 2.7 cyl and pistons to go with the motor and wants $200 for it. He also said that the reason it is sitting is that it has a spun bearing. blink.gif

Soooo, I know what problems a spun bearing will introduce with a standard iron block motor, I assume the same problems would manifest themselves with the 6cyl 2.4 motors? Should I run and hide from this deal or is it worth a look?

I like the thought of converting to a 6 but not if it is gonna cost me an arm and a leg, I would like some opinions from the more knowledgeable out there as I am merely a shade tree mechanic!

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 11 2013, 10:41 AM

No such thing as a $200 2.4L six. It'll be $10K+ by the time you get done with the motor... wink.gif

Then again, that's true of most 911 motors.

A spun bearing can be fixed, all it takes is time and money. I know that Walt at Competition Engineering used to machine the mag cases so they could be re-used. He would take a shallow pass over the whole sealing surface between the case halves on a mill. Then he'd clamp the two halves together and re-bore the crank and intermediate shaft bores.

It's possible that there is too much damage inside to repair for any sane amount of $$, but I'm thinking it's worth the risk.

Frankly, $200 sounds on the cheap side for a core 911 motor. Especially if he throws in the new P&Cs. Does he know what the thing "should" be worth? (If he does, then why is it so cheap?)

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 11 2013, 11:15 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 11 2013, 08:41 AM) *

No such thing as a $200 2.4L six. It'll be $10K+ by the time you get done with the motor... wink.gif

Then again, that's true of most 911 motors.

A spun bearing can be fixed, all it takes is time and money. I know that Walt at Competition Engineering used to machine the mag cases so they could be re-used. He would take a shallow pass over the whole sealing surface between the case halves on a mill. Then he'd clamp the two halves together and re-bore the crank and intermediate shaft bores.

It's possible that there is too much damage inside to repair for any sane amount of $$, but I'm thinking it's worth the risk.

Frankly, $200 sounds on the cheap side for a core 911 motor. Especially if he throws in the new P&Cs. Does he know what the thing "should" be worth? (If he does, then why is it so cheap?)

--DD

I'm thinking he really doesn't know the value of what he is selling. He wanted $500 for the tranny and I offered him $300 which he took.

Hell the damn cylinders and pistons are going for $400 or more on ebay by themselves! The deal killer is whether or not he can get the heads back from his ex-girlfriend. blink.gif If he can't do that then no deal.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 11 2013, 08:09 PM

Well, tranny is in NC. My buddy picked it up and talked to the guy. Turns out he does a lot of racing with foreign cars. The 2.4 has been sitting in a shop for the last two years and he just wants to get rid of it. If he can get the heads, we have a deal. piratenanner.gif

Surprisingly, the wife didn't object when I mentioned getting the motor. blink.gif I think she has resigned herself to the fact that I'm just gonna do it anyway so she might as well stop fighting it! happy11.gif

I'll work on the car this weekend and sort out the electrical issues so I can get it up and running. Then I can drive it at least while I work on acquiring the rest of the side shift gearbox hardware and start prepping for the six conversion. I need to do some bodywork first though. At least I'll be a well trained welder when I start, I start TIG lessons in January. aktion035.gif I may talk to the welding shop that straightened out my bed frame, I think I can talk him into letting me be a pseudo apprentice and practice MIG in the interim. idea.gif

Also talked to 'Phil,' the guy with the rest of the parts. He said, 'you ever watch that show American pickers?' I said yeah, I've seen it. He said, 'I'm like the guy that those guys go and visit. I got a lot of shit.' Too include 3 Harleys and a Triumph that, from the sounds of it, may be antiques. This could be a very beneficial relationship. I'll link up with him on Sunday and see what he's got. biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 13 2013, 01:18 PM

Well, the parts hunt for the rest of the items to convert the teener to a side shift trans is moving along splendidly. I went by to see Phil this afternoon and came away with the engine mounting bar with all hardware, transmission mounts, shift linkage (both parts) and two front signal light buckets for $255. biggrin.gif My old buckets have the dang plastic duct taped on cause they cracked.

He didn't have the shifter assembly so I am still on the hunt for that. He had a complete FI system for a 1.7 sans injectors but I will pick that up at a later time. All in all a good day. I had hoped to work on the teener yesterday however, the Merc has some fuel issues so I need to sort that out before I can start on the Porsche. dry.gif

I think I recall seeing a couple of 73 and older teeners being parted out on CL, I may see if they have the shifter assembly. Once I have that then I'll be ready to start the prep to transfer it over.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 13 2013, 08:16 PM

Don't forget the converter bushing in the firewall. Has the OD for the early car, the ID for the later shift rod.

--DD

Posted by: mepstein Oct 13 2013, 08:22 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 13 2013, 03:18 PM) *

Well, the parts hunt for the rest of the items to convert the teener to a side shift trans is moving along splendidly. I went by to see Phil this afternoon and came away with the engine mounting bar with all hardware, transmission mounts, shift linkage (both parts) and two front signal light buckets for $255. biggrin.gif My old buckets have the dang plastic duct taped on cause they cracked.

He didn't have the shifter assembly so I am still on the hunt for that. He had a complete FI system for a 1.7 sans injectors but I will pick that up at a later time. All in all a good day. I had hoped to work on the teener yesterday however, the Merc has some fuel issues so I need to sort that out before I can start on the Porsche. dry.gif

I think I recall seeing a couple of 73 and older teeners being parted out on CL, I may see if they have the shifter assembly. Once I have that then I'll be ready to start the prep to transfer it over.


I'm pretty sure I still have the shifter from my flared car at Scotty b's. If it's there, it's yours. $n/c - Mark

Posted by: mepstein Oct 13 2013, 08:36 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 13 2013, 10:22 PM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 13 2013, 03:18 PM) *

Well, the parts hunt for the rest of the items to convert the teener to a side shift trans is moving along splendidly. I went by to see Phil this afternoon and came away with the engine mounting bar with all hardware, transmission mounts, shift linkage (both parts) and two front signal light buckets for $255. biggrin.gif My old buckets have the dang plastic duct taped on cause they cracked.

He didn't have the shifter assembly so I am still on the hunt for that. He had a complete FI system for a 1.7 sans injectors but I will pick that up at a later time. All in all a good day. I had hoped to work on the teener yesterday however, the Merc has some fuel issues so I need to sort that out before I can start on the Porsche. dry.gif

I think I recall seeing a couple of 73 and older teeners being parted out on CL, I may see if they have the shifter assembly. Once I have that then I'll be ready to start the prep to transfer it over.


I'm pretty sure I still have the shifter from my flared car at Scotty b's. If it's there, it's yours. $n/c - Mark


ps - also have a stock 914 shift knob in decent condition.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 14 2013, 12:44 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 13 2013, 06:36 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 13 2013, 10:22 PM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 13 2013, 03:18 PM) *

Well, the parts hunt for the rest of the items to convert the teener to a side shift trans is moving along splendidly. I went by to see Phil this afternoon and came away with the engine mounting bar with all hardware, transmission mounts, shift linkage (both parts) and two front signal light buckets for $255. biggrin.gif My old buckets have the dang plastic duct taped on cause they cracked.

He didn't have the shifter assembly so I am still on the hunt for that. He had a complete FI system for a 1.7 sans injectors but I will pick that up at a later time. All in all a good day. I had hoped to work on the teener yesterday however, the Merc has some fuel issues so I need to sort that out before I can start on the Porsche. dry.gif

I think I recall seeing a couple of 73 and older teeners being parted out on CL, I may see if they have the shifter assembly. Once I have that then I'll be ready to start the prep to transfer it over.


I'm pretty sure I still have the shifter from my flared car at Scotty b's. If it's there, it's yours. $n/c - Mark


ps - also have a stock 914 shift knob in decent condition.

Mark,
Got a shift knob, thanks though. Your steering wheel should be to you tomorrow.

Time to work on the teener, after several hours of trouble shooting the Merc, we found two issues. Connections to electrical distribution box were not connected properly and...distributor cap and rotor were shit. Going to pick up a new cap and rotor from O'Reilly's in a few. I'll need to eventually replace all the hoses on this car as they are all cracking from age.

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 20 2013, 03:49 PM

Picked up the transmission from my brother in law, looks to be in good condition from the outside. I'll start tearing it down this week to see what the inside looks like. It was a good weekend, I also got my first deer after 8 years of not getting to hunt. piratenanner.gif Dressed out at about 100 lbs.

Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image

Looking forward to playing with her stack.... biggrin.gif

Now, where did I put Dr. Evil's DVD.... idea.gif

Posted by: r_towle Oct 20 2013, 03:57 PM

Chris Foley at tangerine racing manufactures a most excellent firewall bushing.
Don't be cheap in this spot, it's the key to good shifting.

The bushing that is sold as a conversion bushing is very loose fitting and very large inner dimension....and it sucks to put in place.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 21 2013, 08:13 AM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 20 2013, 01:57 PM) *

Chris Foley at tangerine racing manufactures a most excellent firewall bushing.
Don't be cheap in this spot, it's the key to good shifting.

The bushing that is sold as a conversion bushing is very loose fitting and very large inner dimension....and it sucks to put in place.

Rich

Just looked at what they got, sounds like a plan, thanks for the recommendation. beer.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 21 2013, 09:41 AM

So I did some thread searching and found a thread posted by Chad Newton this past September asking what all was needed for the side shift conversion. Below is what was posted with my annotations on wheather I have the item or not.

Shifter - coming
shaft from shifter to firewall - Yes
Bent rod from firewall to tranny - Yes
Engine mount bar - Yes
Engine mounts (engine to bar) - Yes
Engine mounts (bar to body) - Yes
Linkage cover at firewall - Yes, same for tail and sideshift I assume
Linkage cover at tranny - Looking
Boots for linkage (both ends) - have one but needs replacement
two cone screws - Need to check
New firewall bushing - Will order from Tangerine
New bushing at tranny end - will order
New Ball for tranny end - Not sure on this


So, PP has an aftermarket linkage cover at the tranny, AA has linkage boots, any other options for the cover and boots out there? I will be ordering the gasket set for the tranny from PP here shortly, checked with the local Porsche dealer, they can get the gaskets BUT, they have to come from Germany and it will take a few weeks... blink.gif Guess I won't be using these guys at all.

Also saw a note that I will need to change one of the heat exchanger units to an older model? Can someone please clarify?

Posted by: shuie Oct 21 2013, 09:50 AM

The Tangerine spherical bushing is really nice.

FWIW, you can also sleeve the side shift rod with a piece of tubing that matches the OD of the stock tailshift rod (or just cut a section from the TS shift rod since you are not using it anymore) and use the regular tailshift bushing at the firewall instead of the conversion bushing.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 21 2013, 02:52 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Oct 21 2013, 08:41 AM) *

Linkage cover at firewall - Yes, same for tail and sideshift I assume


Not the same. The stuff they cover is shaped differently, so the cover is shaped differently. The bad news is that the flange on the early firewall will not fit the rubber boot over the later cover. I'm not sure how people hold the cover onto the early firewall...


QUOTE
Also saw a note that I will need to change one of the heat exchanger units to an older model? Can someone please clarify?


That information is incorrect. You can use your heat exchangers.

You will need to change the piece that goes under the exchangers, though. It bolts to the sump on one side, and to the heat exchanger on the other side. The left side version is different on the tailshifters versus the sideshifters, in order to provide clearance for how the SS linkage moves. It's known as a "warm air guide". You may be able to find one under that name.

--DD

Posted by: r_towle Oct 21 2013, 03:29 PM

you need to change one of the heat shields that attaches to the engine and heat exchanger on the drivers side to clear the shifter rod.
It comes from a 72 or later car....

I may have missed one thing.
Engine bar..check
Engine mount brackets (bolt to engine, underneath fan shroud)
Engine rubber mounts, check (should be new)
engine mounts, bar to body...check.

So, make sure you have the small special brackets that get bolted to the motor...

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 21 2013, 06:01 PM

Thanks Dave and Rich for the input. I have all the brackets that go from the bar to the motor. I actually pulled the bar off of a 1.8 so grabbed the 'little bits' that went with it.

I couldn't tell what the difference was on the firewall cover though. So, does anyone have a picture of the two covers next to each other for comparison and the piece of the exchanger shield that is different?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 21 2013, 06:39 PM

The warm air guides:


Tail-shift version, the "bump" goes underneath the shift rod:
IPB Image







Side-shift version, the "bump" goes up and over the shift rod:
IPB Image





Shift coupler boot:


Side-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is a thicker rectangle, not as thin and squished as the early version:
IPB Image

Here is where the cover hooks onto the firewall:
IPB Image



Tail-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is very oblong:
IPB Image

And here is where the TS version hooks to the chassis:
IPB Image



--DD

Posted by: r_towle Oct 21 2013, 07:15 PM

Old is oval, new is round
I just hang it on there to protect the coupler from crud.
No solutions I have seen.

Posted by: zig-n-zag Oct 21 2013, 11:18 PM

An article was written in Up-Fixin der Porsche, volume 9 page 44 on

side-shifter conversion and covered the early to late boot problem.

Basically, you grind some of the lip off around where the shift rod

sticks out from the firewall and fabricate a plate to fit the new boot.

Space the plate away from the firewall with a couple washers.

Posted by: mepstein Oct 22 2013, 05:33 AM

Steve - sent you pm. Mark

Posted by: stephenaki Oct 22 2013, 06:43 AM

Alles klar! beer.gif My confusion came in as I was clearly NOT looking at the correct picture comparison. I think I was having a brain fart dry.gif . So, as I smack myself around a bit and look at the pictures, the little stubby ball that jets out to the left will go away and I will have to figure out a method to hold the new cover in place. Already percolating ideas. I'm acually excited about this project as it will be a lot of fun to dive into this! aktion035.gif Yeah, some people would say I ain't right in the head. Then again, is anyone who buys this car and on this forum completely right in the head? lol-2.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 2 2013, 06:20 PM

OK, so I did some troubleshooting on the car today. First issue dead battery and it won't hold a charge. So, I took it back to Pep Boys and they exchanged it. Install, try to crank, nothing. Check spark, none, check spark at coil, none.

Dizzy and rotor are a bit worn but the plug wires are new. So, off to O'Reilly's to get a new coil, cap and rotor. Replace, try to start...nothing. headbang.gif

She is getting fuel so that is not the issue, anyone got an thoughts? I haven't re-checked for spark, I'll do that in the morning; anything else I need to be looking at other than making sure all my ground connections are solid?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 3 2013, 12:38 AM

Try to crank, nothing. Says significant electrical connection problem to me. Time to re-check the connections at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and very especially the grounds.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 3 2013, 05:38 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 2 2013, 10:38 PM) *

Try to crank, nothing. Says significant electrical connection problem to me. Time to re-check the connections at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and very especially the grounds.

--DD

I will start down that road again this morning and check all the connections. It is very fustrating . I need to track down the issue with the light anyway.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 3 2013, 02:42 PM

WOOHOO! I have spark! And, she almost started... dry.gif

So I took the time to find and check all the ground connections. I had to replace the bolt for the transmission ground strap as the bolt was stripped and the connection loose. Cleaned up the starter connections as well. Attach my in-line spark tester...no spark, dang. headbang.gif

OK, trace the wires to the coil and dizzy, check continuity, they are good, clean up the connections, try again...no spark.

Check relay board, hmm idea.gif let's take it off and thoroughly clean it! Put it back on, secure all connections, crank... piratenanner.gif SPARK!! Next, phase, disconnect tester and reconnect the plug wire and lets see if I can get her to start up. She almost started but not quite. After a few cranks it stopped cranking and all I got was a click. Soooo, should I replace the power supply relay? Would this be a potential problem? The two relay's I have on the board, are the power supply and the fuel pump. The other two slots are empty. As I have stated before, I suck at electrical troubleshooting so could use some suggestions. popcorn[1].gif As it is, I will need to order a relay for the heater blower as it isn't there. Probably why the blower didn't work to begin with! blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 3 2013, 04:21 PM

Ya know...sometimes I wonder about our cars. blink.gif In my effort to figure out why the stupid left side rear light was staying on I went in search of a diagram for the wire hookups. Not the wiring diagram, I got that but the actual connections to the light.

As I searched I came across a preview that said something to the effect of, 'turn signal left on drain's battery after ignition key is removed...' Wait, what??? Oh shit. Go back out to the car, open the door...flip the turn signal up...well, I feel like a dumbass! dry.gif

Needless to say, that issue is resolved. Of course, in the process of trying to figure it out, both taillight assemblies broke on me as I pulled them out. headbang.gif So I'm looking for a new set of tail light assemblies with lenses now.

I also took the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the power relay, yup, need new relays. Gonna order those. She is still not quite starting yet, but at least I am closer. I'll try to tackle it this week to see if I can get her to start. The plugs are new so I know that isn't the problem.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 5 2013, 09:33 AM

Well, we had guest speakers all day yesterday for my students so I left early and dropped off the Volvo at the dealer, it is creaking, and then went home and did some work on the Teener.

I finally broke down and picked up a remote starter, compresson tester and new timing light with advance. Yeah, I know, I should have already had these things. rolleyes.gif

I decided to pull the dizzy and start from scratch so as to line everything up properly. So, first order of business, pull the #1 plug and screw in the compression tester. Next, hook up the remote starter...not an easy damn task with the new starter! Finally, pull the dizzy.

Time to find TDC, using the remote starter and the compression tester made it a hell of a lot easier! Had I gotten these items before it probably would have saved me a lot of headaches early on while I was in Germany. headbang.gif

I re-marked TDC on the fan with white, it was already marked in red but much harder to see. Before I did this though, I crawled under the car to feel for the notch in the flywheel that should correspond to TDC on the fan. Yup, got it and the notch where the dizzy goes is also pointing in the correct direction. Looking good so far.

Now, time to re-install the dizzy, line up the rotor with the mark on the housing, check to make sure it lines up with a plug...fuck with it for the next 30 minutes trying to get it in and lined up properly! hissyfit.gif laugh.gif I finally got it in and lined up properly after a bit though. Unfortunately, at this point I needed to head off to my welding class so didn't get much further.

Prior to putting the dizzy cap back on, I wrapped new white electrical tape around each tower so I can properly mark the firing order. Now, after some checking, firing order rotating clockwise is 1,4,3,2; clockwise direction is with me standing behind the car. Unless anyone says differently this is how I will proceed.

I will mark the cap accordingly but before I hook the wires up, I plan on running compression tests on each cylinder first. Then I'll hook up the wires and see if we can get her to crank. I'm hoping that re-setting everything to baseline will do the trick, if she starts then I'll work on re-timing the motor and then balance the carbs. Wish me luck, i'm gonna need it! rolleyes.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 11 2013, 12:18 PM

So, put the car up to adjust valve's based on the Cap'ns methodology. Pull the cover for #3 and 4...SHIT. We got oil coming out big time! WTF.gif Correct me if I'm wrong but, it shouldn't do this right? I recall having the covers off before to adjust valves and not have friggin oil spewing out the #4 pushtube. Anyone ever experience this? blink.gif


Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 11 2013, 04:18 PM

Not spewing, but there can be some leaking. If the tail of the car is up, there is something odd for the #4 cylinder's pushrod tube to be spewing, because #1 and #3 would both be lower than #4.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 11 2013, 06:21 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 11 2013, 02:18 PM) *

Not spewing, but there can be some leaking. If the tail of the car is up, there is something odd for the #4 cylinder's pushrod tube to be spewing, because #1 and #3 would both be lower than #4.

--DD

I had nothing come out of the other side. dry.gif Needless to say I re-checked and re-adjusted the valves then put her back together. So I figured I'd try to fire her up after everything I have done.

She almost caught then gave up. I checked spark again, dangit! I ain't got no spark again! WTF.gif I re-checked all the connections, they are solid, I'm at a complete loss. confused24.gif

Wires are new
Coil is new
Cap and rotor are new
Dizzy was re-aligned with TDC
Relay's are new

What the hell am I missing? She is turning over so power is getting to the solenoid and starter, anyone got any suggestions??? This is frustrating the shit out of me!! headbang.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 11 2013, 09:01 PM

Do you have power to the coil?
Are your points opening and closing?
Do they provide a ground to the coil and then disconnect it?

Back to basics...

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 12 2013, 07:54 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 11 2013, 07:01 PM) *

Do you have power to the coil?
Are your points opening and closing?
Do they provide a ground to the coil and then disconnect it?

Back to basics...

--DD

I will start tracing wires later today. I don't have any points as it was converted to a petronix set up.

I was looking at the wiring diagram this morning so will start down the path of first checking continuity of wires going from coil to regulator plate. I think I may have done that before but will double check.

I will need to find the ground wire to see if it is disconnected anywhere. It is frustrating the hell out of me but then again, nothing unusual with that now is there? After all, it is a 914 AND over 40 years old. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 12 2013, 09:42 AM

Could also be a fried Pertronix, then. Those seem to be a wee bit fragile. Especially if the power is left on without the engine running.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 12 2013, 11:17 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 12 2013, 07:42 AM) *

Could also be a fried Pertronix, then. Those seem to be a wee bit fragile. Especially if the power is left on without the engine running.

--DD

I started thinking down that line. It seems to be one that is 'riveted' vice screwed in so not sure if that is easy to replace or not. Guess I'll read up on how to trouble shoot the sucker after I check everything else. Or maybe check the petronix first? Either way, I'll figure it out eventually.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 12 2013, 04:38 PM

OK, so, got home and checked the coil before I ran any continuity tests. I got spark from the coil. I am pretty sure that the electronic ignitor is the issue. Pulled the cap and took a look, hmm, doesn't look like a Petronix to me. Pull it, nope, ain't a Petronix and I have NO CLUE who the hell makes it.

I'll pick up a Petronix kit this week and see how she does, hopefully this resolves the issue.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 12 2013, 07:23 PM

Try a set of points so you can at least keep troubleshooting.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 13 2013, 07:21 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 12 2013, 05:23 PM) *

Try a set of points so you can at least keep troubleshooting.

--DD

Hadn't thought of that. I am not totally sure that the distributor has all the parts needed to convert it back to the standard points system. I know I need a set of points and a condenser which I can get at O'reilly's.

Don't suppose anyone has a good set of pictures of the components so I can make sure I have what I need to retro-fit the dizzy, anyone? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 13 2013, 12:29 PM

How's this one?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/engine/distributor_big.htm

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 13 2013, 02:04 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 13 2013, 10:29 AM) *

How's this one?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/engine/distributor_big.htm

--DD

Doesn't look ANYTHING like mine! I have a 009 version. This aside, I can use that link with some other things I found to re-assemble the dizzy.

I tore it down today and, after removing the contact plate and pulling the shaft and advance mechanism, found this...
Attached Image
See anything missing? Maybe another spring on the other part of the advance weights???? Sooooo, isn't there supposed to be two springs?? I'll wait for someone who re-builds these things to chime in. popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 16 2013, 01:18 PM

Well, my wife gave me whatever she had so I feel like hell. So what do I do? Take drugs and work on the teener of course! biggrin.gif Probably not one of my better ideas as I lost the dang distributor drive spring in the motor while I was lining up the gear. headbang.gif Sometimes you're the hammer and sometimes, you're the nail. I get to be the nail today. smash.gif

Needless to say, I'm gonna have to now drop the motor to see if I can find the dang spring unless someone has any better ideas. I guess I could drain the oil and pull the pan and see if it made it's way all the way through. Anyone got any suggestions?

On the flipside, I did finish the distributor re-furbishment. She looks a lot better than when I started.
BEFORE:
Attached ImageAttached Image

AFTER
Attached ImageAttached Image

I think I'll watch a movie for a bit and wait for the frau to get home.

Posted by: stephenaki Nov 27 2013, 07:55 AM

Well, after nearly two weeks I am finally almost normal with the exception of a lingering cough that I am trying to get over. Haven't gotten much done with the teener other than put the back up on jacks to take some measurements. I read through Andys LS1 Retrospective build thread and saw the jack adapter he made to lower and raise the motor. Soooo, I am going to now build one of those. I have a source of square tubing that I can get what I need at BMG so now all I have to do is get an Oxyacetylene setup since that is what I have been doing in class for the last 3 months.

I will take TIG next semester as well as finally start down the automotive program path. Since my wife is concerned about 'safety' she let me spend a bit more on a helmet for the next course.
Attached Image
Its a Miller Digital Performance Series helmet so will do the trick and allow me a lot of flexibility.

I've got to drop the motor and trans so I have them out before February's clinic in Richmond with Mike so may get it all done over the holiday season. I'm going to add an Oxyactlene cutting/heating & welding rig to my Christmas list for the wife to get me. I have already done up the plans for the motor jack adapter, I just need the rig to weld it all together. Looking at using 1 1/2 inch square tube 1/8 thick for the adapter. This will be my first project with the welding rig. Second and third will be a gun vise to sight in my rifles and an engine stand. I plan on having the motor tuned and running BEFORE I put it back in the car this time!

I'll also be converting over to the side shift so will do some modifications before I put the motor in however, I will use a MIG for that one. My buddy has a MIG that should work for what I want to do. Guess I'll have to roll the car out of the garage so I have room to work on the motor once it is out. I have a cover but it sucks, I think I'll put a good tarp over the cover to keep it out of the elements. Here we go again! I think this is the 5th or 6th time I have had the motor out of the car. rolleyes.gif With any luck, the spring will flush to the sump and come out there so I don't have to pull the whole motor apart...yeah, right dry.gif I have yet to be that lucky with this car! av-943.gif

Posted by: rhodyguy Nov 27 2013, 08:32 AM

for storing outdoors, go to the auto parts store and buy a DRI-Z-AIR and place the whole thing in a bucket on the floor of the car. check and pour off the water every 1 or 2 weeks. basically moisture absorbing crystals in their own little catch basin device. use the bucket as you'll likely forget to empty the basin and enough water will collect and over fill. as stated in the instructions the 'water' will be "corrosive" so the bucket is pretty important.


Attached thumbnail(s)
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Posted by: stephenaki Nov 27 2013, 09:06 AM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Nov 27 2013, 06:32 AM) *

for storing outdoors, go to the auto parts store and buy a DRI-Z-AIR and place the whole thing in a bucket on the floor of the car. check and pour off the water every 1 or 2 weeks. basically moisture absorbing crystals in their own little catch basin device. use the bucket as you'll likely forget to empty the basin and enough water will collect and over fill. as stated in the instructions the 'water' will be "corrosive" so the bucket is pretty important.


hmm, I'll have to see where I can find this stuff, wonder how well it would work in my gun safe... idea.gif

Posted by: rhodyguy Nov 27 2013, 09:10 AM

actually, i found the ones i have at my local hardware store when they were on sale. over time the crystals dissolve and you have to add new. i have one of the units in my truck that's stored under a tarp.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 19 2014, 07:45 PM

I finally got around to dropping the motor and tranny. I wanted to build a lift adapter but just ran out of time so I improvised and used my motorcycle lift on one end and my jack on the other to achieve the same thing without having to 'walk' the car up on the left and right. It worked.
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As one can see the tranny is pretty tore up, I think they left the car on the top of the ship when they shipped it from Germany. Case in point, all 6 *&^%^$##%^& bolts snapped off when I went to remove the muffler!!! headbang.gif They were rusted solid! If I can't extract them then I guess I'll be getting a new muffler.

I drained the oil and, after I help my buddy with his transmission tomorrow, we have to replace the 2 and 4 band on his Chevy tranny, I'll start to tear into the motor. I figure She needs to be cleaned up so I'll just tear it all the way down and rebuild her...again. Besides, I'll need to do quite a bit of work on the body to get it ready for the conversion to a side shifter. Might as well start now. Maybe I'll eventually take it up to Scotty B's to have him shoot it. We'll see.

I still intend to build an engine test stand that I can throw the Teener motor, MG motor and big ole V8 Merc motor on. I got my oxy welding kit in, just need to get some cylinders with fuel and material and off I go!

In the meantime, I will clean up this tranny along with the newly acquired side shifter in prep for Mike's clinic in Feb. Should be a good time. beerchug.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 31 2014, 08:24 AM

Soo, I was thinking, 'a dangerous pastime I know...' Everytime I would pull the valve cover retaining bars off to check valve timing they would take paint off of the valve covers.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep this from happening? Slather in petroleum jelly before I pull off and push back on?

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 10 2014, 09:11 AM

Well, after a full weekend at Dr. Evil's transmission clinic, the side shift gearbox is ready to go. I kept the bell housing portion of the donor trans and will be cutting that off and setting it up to be a future mounting bracket for the engine stand and engine test stand.
Attached Image
Donor innards on the left

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Dr. Evil mentoring his hapless victims

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She is ready to go back in

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WOOHOO! It is back together

Still need to finish tearing down the motor to fish out the dizzy spring and, as luck would have it, I may be getting lucky with a 2.0 core set of heads from Mike (Mblizzard) who I met at the clinic. Hopefully they are workable so I can do a complete transfer to a 2.0 motor. Speaking of conversions...the current set up has Delorto IDF 40 single barrel carbs, would it be better for power and a smoother running motor to transfer to Webers? Thoughts on this? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: KELTY360 Feb 10 2014, 11:21 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 10 2014, 07:11 AM) *

Still need to finish tearing down the motor to fish out the dizzy spring and, as luck would have it, I may be getting lucky with a 2.0 core set of heads from Mike (Mblizzard) who I met at the clinic. Hopefully they are workable so I can do a complete transfer to a 2.0 motor. Speaking of conversions...the current set up has Delorto IDF 40 single barrel carbs, would it be better for power and a smoother running motor to transfer to Webers? Thoughts on this? popcorn[1].gif


Since you're obviously a glutton for punishment and have a high tolerance for detail and frustration...go back to djet. Once you've got it sorted out it will give the best performance, economy and reliability. And, until you have it sorted out, you can keep us entertained with your new adventure. biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 10 2014, 11:52 AM

QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Feb 10 2014, 09:21 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 10 2014, 07:11 AM) *

Still need to finish tearing down the motor to fish out the dizzy spring and, as luck would have it, I may be getting lucky with a 2.0 core set of heads from Mike (Mblizzard) who I met at the clinic. Hopefully they are workable so I can do a complete transfer to a 2.0 motor. Speaking of conversions...the current set up has Delorto IDF 40 single barrel carbs, would it be better for power and a smoother running motor to transfer to Webers? Thoughts on this? popcorn[1].gif


Since you're obviously a glutton for punishment and have a high tolerance for detail and frustration...go back to djet. Once you've got it sorted out it will give the best performance, economy and reliability. And, until you have it sorted out, you can keep us entertained with your new adventure. biggrin.gif

I thought about that but the cost for the ECU is a bit high unless you got one for a steal ya wanna give me...that works! idea.gif

Posted by: KELTY360 Feb 10 2014, 03:45 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 10 2014, 09:52 AM) *

QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Feb 10 2014, 09:21 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Feb 10 2014, 07:11 AM) *

Still need to finish tearing down the motor to fish out the dizzy spring and, as luck would have it, I may be getting lucky with a 2.0 core set of heads from Mike (Mblizzard) who I met at the clinic. Hopefully they are workable so I can do a complete transfer to a 2.0 motor. Speaking of conversions...the current set up has Delorto IDF 40 single barrel carbs, would it be better for power and a smoother running motor to transfer to Webers? Thoughts on this? popcorn[1].gif


Since you're obviously a glutton for punishment and have a high tolerance for detail and frustration...go back to djet. Once you've got it sorted out it will give the best performance, economy and reliability. And, until you have it sorted out, you can keep us entertained with your new adventure. biggrin.gif

I thought about that but the cost for the ECU is a bit high unless you got one for a steal ya wanna give me...that works! idea.gif


I haven't priced out ECUs but it surprises me that they are pricey; what with all the ones that have been pulled out for carb conversions. What is the going price for a djet setup these days?

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 11 2014, 07:37 AM

QUOTE


I haven't priced out ECUs but it surprises me that they are pricey; what with all the ones that have been pulled out for carb conversions. What is the going price for a djet setup these days?


For a used one I have seen anything from $450 to $850 on Evil bay. The $850 unit didn't even have the ECU as part of the set up! I'll probably just run the Dellorto's for the near future and keep an eye out for a reasonable 2.0 FI system. The last time I went down that road I had to threaten someone with a law suit as they got my money and never gave me the parts.

When I sent the individual a note that I would be stopping by to file the suit in his town while on TDY from Germany, the money suddenly showed back up in my Paypal account.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 18 2014, 11:54 AM

Sooooooooo....my fellow instructor, colleague and gearhead is replacing his Accel Gen 6 EFI with a Gen 7 and will sell me the Gen 6 with harness for probably a $100 or so. I have NO experience with FI systems other than the one in my 78 Merc which is a mechanical CIS.

So, the question is, who has experience with this set up, what type of fuel injectors would work with this setup and what else is needed to convert it all over to an EFI?

My understanding, which is usually wrong, is that the stock FIs won't work well with the newer EFI systems. This being said, I am under the assumption that I would have to find an aftermarket setup that would work with a programmable EFI system to include intake manifold and all associated sensors.

Can anyone point me to a good discussion on converting over to an aftermarket EFI system? I have a feeling I will have to set up what I have in the current carb configuration and slowly build the components to transfer it over to EFI.

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 19 2014, 06:33 PM

Had some time today to tear down the driver's side bank. Initial look is not good. So, what would cause the 'shiny' sections of the pushrods? Rod tube retainer? If so, what is the fix or is this even an issue? Looks to me like it might eventually wear through the rod tubes?
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Also looks like the cylinder head did not seal properly based on black spray pattern on the cylinder head.
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Piston tops are pretty black as well.
Attached Image

I guess I'll just clean it all up again. rolleyes.gif Luckily I have a lead on a set of 2.0 heads from MBlizzard so I may be converting to those. I'll take my time and make sure I get things right this time as I obviously didn't on the last rebuild. unsure.gif

Still looking for anyone who has used the Accel Gen 6 EFI for some thoughts on its compatibility and useability in our cars. I'll tear down the passenger side bank tomorrow if I get the chance.

Posted by: scotty b Feb 19 2014, 08:30 PM

Shiny spots are normal. it's from the retainer rubbing the rods. Make certain they re all straighrt. Easiest way is by rolling them over a true surface. If you need the heads machined call me. the Machinist across the lot used to own an import repair shop and knows these things inside and out

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 20 2014, 07:16 AM

QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 19 2014, 06:30 PM) *

Shiny spots are normal. it's from the retainer rubbing the rods. Make certain they re all straighrt. Easiest way is by rolling them over a true surface. If you need the heads machined call me. the Machinist across the lot used to own an import repair shop and knows these things inside and out

Thanks Scotty, probably not these heads as I will be hopefully picking up a pair of 2.0 heads from Mike (MBlizzard). Depending on their state, I may take you up on it.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 20 2014, 10:14 AM

The shiny spots are not normal. They're from not getting the retaining wire for the tubes seated on the shoulders of the tubes. If the lower part of the bent wire sticks down into the tube, the pushrod wears on it and you get that shiny area.

The fix is to pull the wire back outward. Pull far enough and the bent corners will "click" into place against the shoulder of the pushrod.

--DD

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 20 2014, 10:58 AM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Feb 20 2014, 08:14 AM) *

The shiny spots are not normal. They're from not getting the retaining wire for the tubes seated on the shoulders of the tubes. If the lower part of the bent wire sticks down into the tube, the pushrod wears on it and you get that shiny area.

The fix is to pull the wire back outward. Pull far enough and the bent corners will "click" into place against the shoulder of the pushrod.

--DD

hmm, OK, I'll make the adjustment when I get to that point and post a pic to make sure I have it in the right location.

------------------------break------------------------------
Scotty,
Does your machinist bubba clean up case halves and can he make sure the surfaces are perfectly flat prior to re-assembly?

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 22 2014, 06:59 PM

OK, after my TIG welding class welder.gif (I love this class!) and completing the 'Honey Do' list I got to continue the tear down. Seems as if the passenger side cylinder bank and heads also didn't seal. I used the gasket for both sides, don't think I'll do that with the 2.0 heads.
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Also noticed that the underside of the rocker arms looked like they were worn away by rubbing on the valve spring assembly? Didn't see any wear on the valve spring assembly though so it may have already be there. It was just the ones to the #4 cylinder.
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Got all the bolts off and have her up on the bench, I will separate the halves tomorrow and find the errand dizzy spring then start cleaning things up.
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Nice thing about these motors is I have no problem manhandling them up onto the bench, sure as hell couldn't do that with my cast iron MG motor or the big ole V8 in the Merc! blink.gif

At least I am not in a rush like I was in Germany, I'll take my time and make sure it is together right, hopefully Mike doesn't find any issues with the 2.0 heads he's selling me.

I will need to resolve the SRS light issue with the son's car as well as fix the window regulator, I think I'll do that after I finish tearing down the motor.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 29 2014, 04:13 PM

Well, the 2.0 heads fell through. After a good inspection by Mike (MBlizzard) he sent me a note saying they were crap so didn't get them for me. Bummer. sad.gif On the flip side, i'm glad he made the call before I wasted the money on them.

So, we're back to square one with the motor and a new plan. Rebuild the existing motor with the fly cut heads and do the Megasquirt conversion with the current set up. Mike is looking for a set of used intakes and a plenum for the 1.7 motor while I work on getting things cleaned up.

The motor is completely apart and I started to clean things up but then got side tracked with work on the Mercedes, son's JEEP and my new GEO Tracker. I'm rebuilding the steering gear on the Merc and had to replace the bearings on the Tracker to which I found that the locking hubs were shit so now have those on order. I will pull the son's transfer case out tomorrow morning and then check lengths for both input shafts to figure out whether or not I need to do a swap. Hopefully I don't.

Once I get the boy's Jeep squared away and the Merc done I can re-engag the Teener. I'm waiting on an adjustable pin spanner wrench so I can pull the bearing cap on the steering worm gear assembly. It normally comes right off but someone torqued the damn thing in! headbang.gif

I've also started to read up on the Megasquirt conversion, I want to see if I can set up a sequential fire system vice a batch fire system. If anything, the experience I will get from doing this will pay dividends in understanding FI systems and how they are set up. And yes, I'm also a glutton for punishment. screwy.gif Thus...the saga continues... av-943.gif av-943.gif av-943.gif

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 29 2014, 06:53 PM

Did you lap the area to be sure your jugs were mating to the head properly?

Posted by: Krieger Mar 29 2014, 07:00 PM

Hey Stephen. I was checking out your pistons. I am not 100%, but those look like they are from a bus? They seem pretty deeply dished.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 30 2014, 06:49 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 29 2014, 04:53 PM) *

Did you lap the area to be sure your jugs were mating to the head properly?

originally, while in Germany, no. I will this time though. I just haven't had the time to run them down to a place called Abacus racing.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 30 2014, 06:52 AM

QUOTE(Krieger @ Mar 29 2014, 05:00 PM) *

Hey Stephen. I was checking out your pistons. I am not 100%, but those look like they are from a bus? They seem pretty deeply dished.

I'm not totally sure if they are bus or Porsche 2.0s. I read where both were dished but the bus pistons had a deeper dish than 2.0 Porsche heads. At this point it doesn't really matter. I just need to get everything cleaned up, machined where needed and put back together. I'll run the carbs while I work on getting the components for the Megasquirt conversion and do the mods to pop in the new side shift transmission.

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 30 2014, 10:14 AM

After reading this saga, I don't know if the Army needs to issue you a special medal or if you need to be committed. Wow, your perseverance is simply amazing!

Posted by: mepstein Mar 30 2014, 10:24 AM

I bet you can find someone doing a 6 conversion willing to sell a good running 2.0 with stock FI for $1-1.5K. That's the direction I would go. Have money ready and use freightquote.com to ship xcountry if needed. Should be around $250 to ship. JMO and good luck. mark

Or skip ebay and place a WTB for stock FI on World and spend around $500 inc ecu.

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 30 2014, 03:43 PM

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 30 2014, 08:14 AM) *

After reading this saga, I don't know if the Army needs to issue you a special medal or if you need to be committed. Wow, your perseverance is simply amazing!

Wouldn't have made it this far in the Army if I just quit when things got difficult. biggrin.gif Career Army bubbas like myself don't tend to be smart enough to know when to quit, we just keep pluggin away until either the mission is complete or we die. Since I don't plan on dying anytime soon, I'll just keep pluggin away. aktion035.gif

As for medals...naw, got plenty, some meaningful some not. Never put much worth in what was on a person's chest, no, I tend to assess people based on their competence, integrity and intestinal fortitude. You can have a stack of medals going over your shoulder but they don't always represent the true nature of the man OR woman.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 18 2014, 06:03 AM

WOOHOO! piratenanner.gif piratenanner.gif Got the new FI system from KC, AKA mrfourteen. Needs some cleaning and minor reconditioning but she is in good shape. Now, when you get a call from your son and he say's, 'you got a big box in the mail' and you say, 'it's my FI system for the Porsche.' The follow up should be, 'OK, where do you want me to put it?' dry.gif

His response, 'do you want me to open the box and put it on the freezer?' Think in terms of large low deep freezer, not the upright type. Sounds reasonable right? At least I thought so. Now, most people would assume that this means he is going to open the box, peer inside and then put the box on the freezer. NOPE! Not my son.

I got home to a complete FI system strung out and piled up all over the damn freezer! headbang.gif It didn't help that I was tired as I was on the podium teaching all day! Long story short, I made his ass get back out into the garage and re-box everything back up again. Note to self, define the intent before agreeing to the task! happy11.gif

Posted by: scotty b Apr 18 2014, 06:10 AM

cool mellow.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 17 2014, 01:06 PM

Soooo...not much has been done with the car, she has sat languishing in the driveway under a car cover and waterproof tarp. So many other things have interfered with me getting anything done, it has been a bit maddening! headbang.gif

Monday however, I took the heads, cylinders and pistons to a local machine shop called Magnum Machine shop to get an evaluation and estimate on the heads. They called me yesterday and the owner said the valve guides needed replacement. I checked online today and found them on PP as well as Partsgeek. I called him back and he is going to do some measuring to determine whether or not we need to get oversize valve guides or standard ones.

I should know later today and will order the guides so he can start the work on the heads. He will also check the fit of the cylinder to the head and determine if he has to do any machining. I am estimating about $500 worth of work. Maybe i'll get lucky and it will be cheaper...yeah....right. happy11.gif

I guess I'll continue cleaning everything else up and prepping it for the rebuild. Anyone paint their case? If so, how did it hold up and what type of paint did you use? I am assuming a self-etching primer is needed along with a high temp paint. Any recommendations on this would be appreciated. popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: CptTripps Dec 17 2014, 01:18 PM

Don't just use any "self etching primer" you find. Make sure it's rated for high heat. VHT makes a flame-proof primer for this specific purpose.

Like painting anything, prep work is going to determine how long it lasts. Make sure you de-grease properly...and then do it again....before you prime.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 17 2014, 05:54 PM

QUOTE(CptTripps @ Dec 17 2014, 11:18 AM) *

Don't just use any "self etching primer" you find. Make sure it's rated for high heat. VHT makes a flame-proof primer for this specific purpose.

Like painting anything, prep work is going to determine how long it lasts. Make sure you de-grease properly...and then do it again....before you prime.


Yeah, I figured it would have to be a high heat primer as well. Sherwin Williams has an auto paint store near me, I'll pop in and talk to them.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 17 2014, 06:03 PM

OK, need some valve guide help.

As a reminder, my motor started life as a 1.7L. The heads were fly cut to fit 2.0 jugs and, as I discovered, the valves were changed to 2.0 valves with a 36mm Ex and 42mm In valve.

The guy at Magnum did some measuring and came up with 13.13mm Exhaust ID valve guide measurement and a 12.12mm Intake ID valve guide measurement. Now, I know nothing when it comes to valve guide replacement but it is my understanding that I will need to replace the old guides with oversize guides. SOOOOOO...where the heck do I get them and what will work? Doesn't look like PP has anything that will work. The only one I could find there was 12.09mm for the intake.

Any help would be appreciated!

Posted by: r_towle Dec 17 2014, 06:38 PM

European Motorwerks in CA.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 18 2014, 10:34 AM

Thanks Rich! biggrin.gif Found them, I will get them on order later today.

QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 17 2014, 04:38 PM) *

European Motorwerks in CA.

Rich


Posted by: stephenaki Dec 19 2014, 01:24 PM

OK, so, I stopped by the machine shop and got smart on the valve guides and, thanks to Rich Towle, got new ones on order. Now we wait for them to come in so we can get the heads finished up and the cylinder's honed and cleaned up.

In the meantime, I need to run by autozone, advance or O'Reilly's to find the VHT brand primer that was mentioned. I talked to the people at the Sherwin Williams store and they don't get VHT in much. They recommended the auto stores so, I'm gonna go hit them up.

Now that the bike is back together I can focus on the teener and try to get her back together. Since it will probably be a bit before I can re-assemble her I may tackle the brakes and finish rehabbing those suckers. Might as well, they need to get done anyway.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2015, 11:47 AM

Piston rings! OK, I have the 94mm pistons, don't need any oversize rings just a standard set. PP has a single set for $22, Rock auto has two sets, one for $8 and the other for $15 but, I can't figure out which set is for a 94mm as Goetze has them for 80mm as well. Finally, I found a set of 4 for $29 from AA performance products. Anyone have any recommendations and the dang Goetze part number for the 94mm rings? PP doesn't show you the manufacturer part number. dry.gif


Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2015, 12:30 PM

Never mind! Didn't have a choice as PP were the only ones I could find who had them in stock!

Posted by: Steve Pratel Jan 14 2015, 01:54 PM

You can buy Hastings rings from:

Type 4 store - Way over priced, and they actually have a $50 minimum order if you can believe it..... Sorry but that is pathetic.

European Motor Works - Great guys, much more available than is listed on website.

Perfect Engine.com - Best price ( 1/2 cost of others)

I tried unsuccessfully to get the Hastings, several other brands available, but I prefer Hastings. US made, great quality control.

Due to being a ham fisted maroon, I had to order a second set of the Hastings #3402. I see you needed 94mm, I have 96mm, but if anyone needs, I have some rings left over....

Posted by: Valy Jan 15 2015, 02:25 PM

Hope you don't find this out the hard way but, the original pistons had metric sized ring grooves and some aftermarket pistons have SAE sized grooves. This is regardless of the piston diameter that is always metric.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 16 2015, 04:15 PM

Got the Goetze rings so we should be good to go. If I have to replace them again, I hope not anytime soon, I'll look at the other sites you mentioned Steve.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 2 2015, 11:33 AM

Soo, it's been a long while since posting anything. I am currently two weeks out from my move to TN. I put the MG and Teener into a storage unit yesterday and today I am working to make the movers mad by loading a tuff box with Porsche parts! biggrin.gif

Had to take a break as a major lightning and thunderstorm came through and I didn't want to be in the garage with the door open when it hit. I'm back at it but needed to check a couple of things first.

I think the plan at this time is to focus on the MG when I get settled, then, tear the Teener completely down and do a ground up resto on her. The MG just needs some minor motor work, mostly clean up and some head work, then assembly. The Teener needs a lot more so I will put her on hold until I can concentrate on getting her done right the first time.

Now, I just need to find a job and a place to settle... Amazon is not dead yet and I go into the second round of interviews shortly and Oracle is courting me as well. I'm also trying to find something in the Knoxville area so we will see what happens. Good thing I got a retirement paycheck from Uncle Sam. It ain't much but it will work for now. sunglasses.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 13 2016, 05:13 PM

I'mmmm baaaaaaack! Well kinda. We got to lovely Knoxville, TN shortly after I retired from the Army and I got roped into helping Herr Blizzard with Okteenerfest 2015. I had a lot of fun though.

So after searching for a job and doing a short stint with Academy Sports out of pure boredom we decided that this is where we are going to put down roots. So far the new year has started with a bang.

We bought a house that we close on in February and, I found a real job managing a couple of projects in the Oak Ridge, TN area. Now I am in the midst of getting ready for our next and FINAL move to a house that I intend to stay in until I die! No more will I pick up and move after a couple of years as I left that life behind when I took off the uniform. I guess I better update my signature. I'm also looking at four post lifts to install in my rather large garage so I can stack and work on cars.

I have conscripted Herr Blizzard into coming with me to VA to pick up the Teener and my MG and we shall bring it back to Knoxville where it is then a mad rush to get it up and running before Okteenerfest 2016. This being said, if anyone finds themselves in the Knoxville, TN area please look me up and we'll have a beer together. Or wine, or scotch, whatever it takes to get you to help work on my car... biggrin.gif

I'll start updating this thread more once I get the Teener back and start putting her back together. BANZAI!! aktion035.gif

Posted by: r_towle Jan 13 2016, 06:14 PM

Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2016, 06:18 AM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 13 2016, 04:14 PM) *

Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.

Rich

Rich,
Yeah, but right now they are only looking for engineers and scientists. The gig I got right now will be nice as it is pure PM work using MS Project and Primavera which will give me a lot of civilian experience. The last PM was let go as he was only a paper pusher vice an actual leader and manager, there is a lot that I will have to do to get this project straight but I'm looking forward to the challenge. screwy.gif

By the way, if y'all are looking, I have a 17 year MI vet that is gonna start classes on cyber security that is looking for something better than Academy Sports. He might be a good fit for that industry, he got out as a Major after he got married to keep from getting a divorce and ironically made it only two years before he had a divorce. blink.gif

Very proactive and aggressive which of course gets him in trouble as he is far smarter and way more organized than the current management at the store I did my stint at.

Posted by: BeatNavy Jan 14 2016, 06:50 AM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 14 2016, 07:18 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 13 2016, 04:14 PM) *

Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.

Rich

Rich,
Yeah, but right now they are only looking for engineers and scientists. The gig I got right now will be nice as it is pure PM work using MS Project and Primavera which will give me a lot of civilian experience. The last PM was let go as he was only a paper pusher vice an actual leader and manager, there is a lot that I will have to do to get this project straight but I'm looking forward to the challenge. screwy.gif

By the way, if y'all are looking, I have a 17 year MI vet that is gonna start classes on cyber security that is looking for something better than Academy Sports. He might be a good fit for that industry, he got out as a Major after he got married to keep from getting a divorce and ironically made it only two years before he had a divorce. blink.gif

Very proactive and aggressive which of course gets him in trouble as he is far smarter and way more organized than the current management at the store I did my stint at.

He got out 3 years shy of twenty to avoid a divorce and ended up divorced anyway? blink.gif

Stephen, I'll send you a PM with my contact info. Don't have anything immediate but always looking.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 14 2016, 07:49 AM

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Jan 14 2016, 04:50 AM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 14 2016, 07:18 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 13 2016, 04:14 PM) *

Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.

Rich

Rich,
Yeah, but right now they are only looking for engineers and scientists. The gig I got right now will be nice as it is pure PM work using MS Project and Primavera which will give me a lot of civilian experience. The last PM was let go as he was only a paper pusher vice an actual leader and manager, there is a lot that I will have to do to get this project straight but I'm looking forward to the challenge. screwy.gif

By the way, if y'all are looking, I have a 17 year MI vet that is gonna start classes on cyber security that is looking for something better than Academy Sports. He might be a good fit for that industry, he got out as a Major after he got married to keep from getting a divorce and ironically made it only two years before he had a divorce. blink.gif

Very proactive and aggressive which of course gets him in trouble as he is far smarter and way more organized than the current management at the store I did my stint at.

He got out 3 years shy of twenty to avoid a divorce and ended up divorced anyway? blink.gif

Stephen, I'll send you a PM with my contact info. Don't have anything immediate but always looking.


Yeah, not only that, he would have been considered for LTC the year he got out and probably would have gotten selected. I think he is still kicking himself for that. dry.gif

Posted by: r_towle Jan 14 2016, 07:16 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jan 14 2016, 07:18 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 13 2016, 04:14 PM) *

Have you looked into ORNL?
Big lab, lots of projects.

Rich

Rich,
Yeah, but right now they are only looking for engineers and scientists. The gig I got right now will be nice as it is pure PM work using MS Project and Primavera which will give me a lot of civilian experience. The last PM was let go as he was only a paper pusher vice an actual leader and manager, there is a lot that I will have to do to get this project straight but I'm looking forward to the challenge. screwy.gif

By the way, if y'all are looking, I have a 17 year MI vet that is gonna start classes on cyber security that is looking for something better than Academy Sports. He might be a good fit for that industry, he got out as a Major after he got married to keep from getting a divorce and ironically made it only two years before he had a divorce. blink.gif

Very proactive and aggressive which of course gets him in trouble as he is far smarter and way more organized than the current management at the store I did my stint at.

Send him my email address.
I will hook him up to a few recruiters that are looking.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 16 2016, 02:44 PM

OK, let's try again, my computer just up and restarted on me so I lost what I had typed earlier. mad.gif

Anyway, I've been a bit busy with the new job and purchase of a new house. We closed on the house about 2 1/2 weeks ago and have been trying to get organized with a ton of deliveries. Furniture, appliances, household goods that were in storage, etc.

It hasn't helped that the two projects that I manage were complete basket cases when I took them over because the previous Project Manager was a useless dirtbag! headbang.gif Makes it hard to organize a house when you have to spend all your time cleaning up work issues.

Nevertheless, it is slowly coming around but the garage is still a bit of a mess.
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Look! My tool chest! But, I can't get to it!

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Thar be 914 parts in that there mess!

This weekend the goal is to tear out the closets you see in the picture so I can make space for the 4 post lift. Once I get that done I can organize tools and equipment then go and get the Teener and MG from VA. aktion035.gif

Once that is done, time to get the Teener running for Okteenerfest! Or at least that is the goal. That may be hard to do as I just got a note that I'm being offered a Program Manager position based in Florida. If that comes through, I'll be doing a lot of traveling and won't have near as much freedom as I do now. Add to this that I will probably find myself moving to the St. Petersburg area in about a year... dry.gif

So much for our 'forever home.' Oh well, we'll see what happens, I'll just have to find a new house with lots of room for the cars and bikes again if we wind up moving. Rest assured, I'll be pinging our Florida members if things go that direction.



Posted by: r_towle Mar 16 2016, 05:14 PM

I am supposed to remember this from January?
I cant remember what I did last week....

Might want to hold off on remodeling....just saying.

Also, that wall might be structural, so proceed accordingly.

Rich

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 17 2016, 02:25 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 16 2016, 03:14 PM) *

I am supposed to remember this from January?
I cant remember what I did last week....

Might want to hold off on remodeling....just saying.

Also, that wall might be structural, so proceed accordingly.

Rich


Naw, push come to shove, I'll tear down the lift and move it with me! biggrin.gif

As far as the wall, it's not load bearing. The previous owner added it in after the fact. He used to have a boat that went all the way to the back but when he got rid of it, he built the two closets.

Posted by: r_towle Mar 17 2016, 10:19 PM

smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif givemebeer.gif givemebeer.gif givemebeer.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 18 2016, 07:14 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 17 2016, 08:19 PM) *

smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif givemebeer.gif givemebeer.gif givemebeer.gif


Yup, tear down starts tomorrow! aktion035.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Mar 19 2016, 03:09 PM

Soooo...I got a lot of things moved around last night and finished moving things out of the way to start the demo of the garage closet this morning.
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Here is where we started, close to 3 1/2 feet were taken up by the closet as far as space going to the back wall. It was about 20 feet to the point that we took out the wall right next to the water heating unit.

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My daughter, Rianna, made sure I woke her up around 0730 so she could help. Mike, MBlizzard, showed up around 0745 and you can see the destruction taking place.

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It took us about 4 hours to tear everything out and clean up. The garage looks much larger now!

We also found some issues that I will have to deal with, termite trail up one 2x4 stud that I need to check to see if it needs replacement.

And what looks to be mold in the ceiling insulation.
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I'll need to get into the attic and investigate. Needless to say, I can't do much more until I remedy these issues. I'll probably pull the rest of the drywall down tomorrow to check on the stud and make sure there are no other termite trails. I called it quits for today as I'm beat.

Getting closer to being able to get the Teener and MG so I can get back to work on them! sawzall-smiley.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 2 2016, 07:18 PM

Well...The cars are back!! Headed to VA yesterday and met my buddy Leo at the storage unit. It took us about an hour and a half to load the MG and Teener. The Teener was easy, it went on the auto transport; the MG however was an entirely different story!
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I didn't have the steering unit connected on the MG and neither wheels were connected to the steering rack so the first attempt to bring her up had the front wheels turning the wrong way. OK, lets try bringing her up from the back. NOPE! She would have bottomed out. Damn, now what? headbang.gif

Then Leo had a brilliant idea, lets connect the wheels with a ratchet strap! idea.gif So we ran the straps to the connecting ends of the wheel tie rod arms, tighten just enough so that one wheel causes the other to turn and...VOILA!! Wheels stay straight and we can get her up into the truck! aktion035.gif

We had a 5000 lb ratchet strap we initially used as a come a long but once we got it up on the ramps we both just got behind her and pushed her up the rest of the way. Good thing its just a chassis on wheels! blink.gif

I got back this afternoon and got the Teener off the auto transport and then moved and unhooked the transport. MBBlizzard will be coming to help me unload the MG tomorrow then we start work on the Teener Motor. I'll need a new clutch cable and speedometer cable though. They came loose and 450 miles of dragging on the road kinda hosed them. stromberg.gif Now I gotta go and order me the lift!

I start at General Dynamics on the 11th of April so I need to get as much work done now before I start as I will be doing a lot of traveling. I'm thinking it won't be until May now until I get the lift ordered, delivered and installed.

Let the madness begin again!!!! lol-2.gif lol-2.gif


Posted by: mb911 Apr 2 2016, 07:38 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Apr 2 2016, 05:18 PM) *

Well...The cars are back!! Headed to VA yesterday and met my buddy Leo at the storage unit. It took us about an hour and a half to load the MG and Teener. The Teener was easy, it went on the auto transport; the MG however was an entirely different story!
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I didn't have the steering unit connected on the MG and neither wheels were connected to the steering rack so the first attempt to bring her up had the front wheels turning the wrong way. OK, lets try bringing her up from the back. NOPE! She would have bottomed out. Damn, now what? headbang.gif

Then Leo had a brilliant idea, lets connect the wheels with a ratchet strap! idea.gif So we ran the straps to the connecting ends of the wheel tie rod arms, tighten just enough so that one wheel causes the other to turn and...VOILA!! Wheels stay straight and we can get her up into the truck! aktion035.gif

We had a 5000 lb ratchet strap we initially used as a come a long but once we got it up on the ramps we both just got behind her and pushed her up the rest of the way. Good thing its just a chassis on wheels! blink.gif

I got back this afternoon and got the Teener off the auto transport and then moved and unhooked the transport. MBBlizzard will be coming to help me unload the MG tomorrow then we start work on the Teener Motor. I'll need a new clutch cable and speedometer cable though. They came loose and 450 miles of dragging on the road kinda hosed them. stromberg.gif Now I gotta go and order me the lift!

I start at General Dynamics on the 11th of April so I need to get as much work done now before I start as I will be doing a lot of traveling. I'm thinking it won't be until May now until I get the lift ordered, delivered and installed.

Let the madness begin again!!!! lol-2.gif lol-2.gif



General dynamics of predator drone fame???

Former life did a lot of work with them..

Posted by: r_towle Apr 2 2016, 09:51 PM

GD, good place to land.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 3 2016, 07:41 AM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 2 2016, 07:51 PM) *

GD, good place to land.


Yup. I was recruited by previous subordinates that I worked with in 5th Special Forces Group. They wanted a Program Manager that they knew would get the job done and already understood the SOF community. I'm looking forward to getting started. beerchug.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 3 2016, 07:53 AM

OK, so Mike came over this morning and we pulled the MG off. I had things pretty much set up and was installing the tie rod ends when he arrived. We hooked up a big ass ratchet strap to the front to control the car coming down then he and I slowly backed it off the trailer and down the ramps. When we got within 6 inches or so of the ratchet strap having tension we chocked each rear wheel and one of us would go up and loosen the strap some more. She came down a lot easier than she went up! happy11.gif

So here is what a truck with two cars loaded up looks like.
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Here is what is left of the clutch and speedo cables that drug on the ground. Good thing Mike has a couple of spares for me! blink.gif
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And now the garage is full! I will have the four post ordered next month and hopefully installed before the end of May. I'll start putting the Teener motor together this week.
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It's kinda hard to see but on the right fender their is a perfect line of rust and paint bubbling. Methinks the previous owner did a shitty repair on the fender! mad.gif I'm gonna have to grind off the paint and see what I am dealing with but I felt a strip of something on the underside of the fender so I'm thinking whoever 'fixed' it only applied a bandaid fix. I'm hoping that I can still salvage it and don't have to do any major repair work, we'll see.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 17 2016, 04:36 PM

Let the madness begin! Again!

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After a week on the road with my new job I got back late Friday night. I wanted to start on Saturday but I had some honey do's that I needed to get done and I watched a movie with my daughter. Unfortunately, she also has walking pneumonia so things have been a bit hectic.

I finally got the chance to pull the motor out of the tuff box this afternoon. I cleaned up each case half and will wrap them in plastic to keep any dirt, dust or debri from accumulating. It will have to stay that way until next weekend as I hit the road again tomorrow to work on some production line issues with the vehicle we were contracted to build. Hopefully, my daughter will be well by the time I get back so I can get more done. At least its a start! beer.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 23 2016, 05:26 PM

OK, need some help. Evidently the dowel pin, 111-101-123, straight pin for crankshaft bearing, has fallen out of one of my crankcase halves. I kinda need that to keep the bearing from spinning and ensuring it lines up with the oil lubrication holes.

PP has them for about a $1 but then wants $4.75 to ship the damn thing! headbang.gif

I don't suppose anyone has an extra one they'd like to part with or knows the measurements so I can try to source it that way? confused24.gif

Unfortunately, I don't have anything I need to order from them to make the shipping worthwile.

Posted by: porschetub Apr 23 2016, 09:07 PM

[quote name='stephenaki' date='Apr 24 2016, 11:26 AM' post='2335036']
OK, need some help. Evidently the dowel pin, 111-101-123, straight pin for crankshaft bearing, has fallen out of one of my crankcase halves. I kinda need that to keep the bearing from spinning and ensuring it lines up with the oil lubrication holes.

PP has them for about a $1 but then wants $4.75 to ship the damn thing! headbang.gif

I don't suppose anyone has an extra one they'd like to part with or knows the measurements so I can try to source it that way? confused24.gif

Quote;

Get all new ones and make sure they fit well,order say a couple of oil fiters and other consumables you will always need them,by the way Autohaus have free shipping on orders over $48 dollars at the moment.



Posted by: stephenaki Apr 24 2016, 06:22 AM

QUOTE(porschetub @ Apr 23 2016, 07:07 PM) *


Get all new ones and make sure they fit well,order say a couple of oil fiters and other consumables you will always need them,by the way Autohaus have free shipping on orders over $48 dollars at the moment.


I was heading that way but Autohaus doesn't have everything I need. I did find a site where I got a couple of other parts that PP and Autohaus doesn't carry. I now have them on order so I can work on it when I get back as I am back on the road Tuesday for business. New position at GD has me traveling quite a bit.

Posted by: stephenaki May 21 2016, 08:58 AM

OK, it's much harder to put a car together when you're on the road all the time. dry.gif

Anyway, back for the weekend and got some work done.
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Got these cleaned up, new rings installed and they are ready for install.

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Got the crank and cam in but the front pulley seal is deformed so I ordered another front and main rear just in case. I had gotten in the locating pins so everything is now good on the crank bearings.

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May have been able to use this but I wasn't taking any chances.

I'm on the road again tomorrow but hopefully my seals will be in by the time I get back so I can finish putting the case together and install the pistons and cylinders. Slow but steady.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 18 2016, 04:09 PM

Been a busy month but got some time to work on the motor. Need to add a few more bolts and nuts then torque and she is ready for they cylinder and pistons. Thankfully Mike Blizzard remembered to ask the question about the timing marks on the Cam and crank; I had forgotten about that. It would not have ended well as I had the marks 180 out! blink.gif

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I need to pick up a couple more bolts as I bought the wrong length and I'll have everything bolted up and ready to torque. Next the fun begins with installing the cylinder's and pistons, that was always a pain in the butt. dry.gif

Posted by: DavidSweden Jun 18 2016, 04:27 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jun 18 2016, 02:09 PM) *

Been a busy month but got some time to work on the motor. Need to add a few more bolts and nuts then torque and she is ready for they cylinder and pistons. Thankfully Mike Blizzard remembered to ask the question about the timing marks on the Cam and crank; I had forgotten about that. It would not have ended well as I had the marks 180 out! blink.gif

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I need to pick up a couple more bolts as I bought the wrong length and I'll have everything bolted up and ready to torque. Next the fun begins with installing the cylinder's and pistons, that was always a pain in the butt. dry.gif



Its looking good. Its great fun putting an engine together even with the inevitable problems that always seem to turn up.

Posted by: r_towle Jun 18 2016, 04:41 PM

All rotating smooth and easy now?

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 18 2016, 06:55 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 18 2016, 02:41 PM) *

All rotating smooth and easy now?

Yep. This part is actually easy when I make sure I do it right. The challenge will be with installing the FI system. I'm a total newb to that set up so it should be interesting.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 4 2016, 01:24 PM

Hope everyone is having a great 4th of July celebration! beer.gif 351.gif

I spent a long week over in St. Petersburg, FL last week with wife and daughter in tow. They got to go and see things while I spent the week in meetings and working groups at our corporate headquarters. dry.gif At least I spent time out on my bosses boat on Saturday before we came back on Sunday.

I got to work on the motor today and got the passenger's side done with the exception of installing the rocker assembly and push rods. I'll do those after I get the other side put together.

I didn't realize that when you have the case cradle that it hinders your ability to just slide on the piston and cylinder assembly and put in the wrist pins and circlips to connect the piston rods. NOW I understand why Porsche uses the piston ring compressor design they do! Thankfully, I found the damn thing! So here is today's effort, I am taking a break and may go out in a bit and work on the other side.

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Not how I wanted to put it on!

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I had removed the head studs to make it easier to maneuver.

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Time to torque the head.

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One side down, one side to go!

I chased the exhaust studs before I assembled it to ensure I had no crud built up on it. I'll clean up the intake studs before I start assembling anything else. With any luck, I'll have the base motor done before I have to start traveling again on Wednesday then I get to mess with the FI system.

Posted by: stephenaki Jul 9 2016, 04:14 PM

Other side done, partially installed impeller. fan Will adjust valve clearance tomorrow then, on the road again!

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Posted by: stephenaki Aug 21 2016, 03:20 PM

Well, I've been a bit busy this weekend. I've been on the road for pretty much four weeks straight and finally got to come home for a week or so. I had done some work about three weeks ago when I was home for the weekend so was able to finish the rest off this weekend. aktion035.gif

First off, one must remember that engine tin goes on UNDER push tubes! headbang.gif It's even worse when you put oil in it then have to take things apart to fix your screw up! dry.gif

That being said, got most of the tin on yesterday but had to pull her off the stand as the cradle interfered with the rest of the tin.

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Well, my first thought wasn't so smart. I had thought the wife could help, she gave me the, 'your on serious fucking crack!' look. She said, call Mikey! (MBlizzard)

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Nope, not gonna bother Mikey, I just had to think it through. She came down perfect!

Got a lot put on yesterday before I called it a day. I can tell I am way out of shape, I was aching yesterday after I was done!
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Posted by: stephenaki Aug 21 2016, 03:24 PM

So today I finished her up and got the dizzy in, all the tin on and gearbox mated up.
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I have a box full of FI parts that I'll start going through this weekend to see what I have, what needs some help and cleaning, etc. I'm hoping to get it all sorted before I head off to Florida again in a couple of weeks. I am not doing two week stints at our corporate HQ so it makes things a bit more challenging to get to. Progress is being made. Once I get this all sorted it will be time to start prepping the bay for the transition to a side shift setup.

Posted by: stephenaki Jan 29 2017, 07:36 AM

Well, things are moving fast here in TN at least with regards to getting ready to move to Florida. Mike, MBLizzard, came over yesterday and we got three cars ready to move. Put the hard top on the Merc, got the motor into the Teener and got the steering assembly put together for the MG. piratenanner.gif

We learned that there is a significant difference in motor position on the Teener if you don't swap over the front motor mounts from the tail shift to the side shift mounts. Motor sits quite a bit lower! blink.gif

Well this is just to move the car as a unit so it will work; just ordered two from Pelican since I will need them eventually. Also was reminded that the standard bolt size for the MG is 5/16 x 24tp.

House goes on the market in February, just about a year after we bought it, then it is time to search the Florida market! Good thing we don't have to do much for prep as I am playing production and program manager this month since my production manager departed for a different position in VA. Been living in Anniston, AL and commuting home o weekends. dry.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Feb 19 2017, 08:00 AM

And so it begins; house is now on the market. If anyone is looking for a house in the Halls area of Knoxville, let me know and I'll send you the link on Realtor.com! biggrin.gif

Now lets see how long this will take to sell; we'd like a quick sale but we haven't figured out quite yet what we would do if it did sell quickly since we can't leave until the end of May. blink.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 22 2017, 10:58 AM

Well, after a couple of inspections it looks like we are moving ahead with a house in Palmetto, FL. We have to have the VA inspection done before it is all clear but, if all goes well, we'll be closing mid-June.

We've had a couple of offers on our house in TN but we didn't accept them as they were absolutely worthless. Not sure why people think that offering $50K less than the market value and asking for closing costs is an acceptable offer especially in a seller's market. screwy.gif

She'll sell but it may take a bit. I did find a company that will put in my workshop. They'll do the slab and put up the metal building. I plan on putting in a 40x30 slab for a workshop with a metal building. Since we are sitting on a bit over an acre of land I have plenty of room for it! cheer.gif It will also allow me to put in a two post lift which is less expensive than a four post. Can't wait to get things started! piratenanner.gif

Posted by: stephenaki May 29 2017, 06:34 AM

Looking for a lift dealer and installer in the Tampa and south area! Anyone got any recommendations?

So we have sold our house here in TN and will be closing on the house in the Palmetto area mid-June. We have to put a new roof on it but I am also putting in a workshop about 30'x50' and looking for a two post lift. I like the rotary lifts but am open to other options. Anyone know of a good dealer down in the Tampa or Bradenton area that they can recommend? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 30 2017, 08:25 PM

Were here! Been here about two weeks and still unpacking. Should have the new shop up in about three months. And then I can clear out the garage and move everything over. Went with a 30' x 5'' insulated metal building. I'll have to figure out AC as it is hotter than hades and only gonna get hotter.

I know we have members in the area, any St. Pete, Tampa, Palmetto area Teener events coming up?

Posted by: carr914 Jul 2 2017, 08:10 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ May 29 2017, 08:34 AM) *

Looking for a lift dealer and installer in the Tampa and south area! Anyone got any recommendations?

So we have sold our house here in TN and will be closing on the house in the Palmetto area mid-June. We have to put a new roof on it but I am also putting in a workshop about 30'x50' and looking for a two post lift. I like the rotary lifts but am open to other options. Anyone know of a good dealer down in the Tampa or Bradenton area that they can recommend? popcorn[1].gif


I have a Rotary Lift and used them when I had it installed 12 years ago - I haven't needed them since.

Our Tampa numbers are down as URY, Chad & snakemain moved. SMG, thePaintedMan & I are around.

If you need professional help with a 914, my buddy Carlos has CRS Motorsports in Bradenton. He has 2 914s there now. My Camaro is there too

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 10 2017, 08:46 AM

QUOTE(carr914 @ Jul 2 2017, 06:10 PM) *

QUOTE(stephenaki @ May 29 2017, 08:34 AM) *

Looking for a lift dealer and installer in the Tampa and south area! Anyone got any recommendations?

So we have sold our house here in TN and will be closing on the house in the Palmetto area mid-June. We have to put a new roof on it but I am also putting in a workshop about 30'x50' and looking for a two post lift. I like the rotary lifts but am open to other options. Anyone know of a good dealer down in the Tampa or Bradenton area that they can recommend? popcorn[1].gif


I have a Rotary Lift and used them when I had it installed 12 years ago - I haven't needed them since.

Our Tampa numbers are down as URY, Chad & snakemain moved. SMG, thePaintedMan & I are around.

If you need professional help with a 914, my buddy Carlos has CRS Motorsports in Bradenton. He has 2 914s there now. My Camaro is there too


Does he do MG motors? I need some block and head work on the MG. Haven't done much with the 914 recently.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 10 2017, 08:57 AM

Sooooo...I've been a bit busy. We moved down to lovely Florida this past June and I have been swamped with both work and house projects. I kinda focused on getting the MG Midget put back together and put the teener on the back burner. I did however manage to finally get my workshop up.

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It is a 30' x 50' in the back of the house. I have to run electrical to it which I am working on now and eventually get the plumbing hooked up. I have to finish the interior and will put up OSB to protect the insulation from damage and will eventually put down Polyurea flooring.

I have a lift coming and will hopefully get that installed this coming week. I'm happy with the building, I just need to get some things cleaned up before I start moving everything over. I'm hoping to be able to start operating out of it by the end of January if not sooner.

Posted by: 76-914 Dec 10 2017, 09:17 AM

That's huge. Fillit up with cars and enjoy the Hell out of it. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Krieger Dec 10 2017, 09:59 AM

Between you and the Doc's cool garage additions. It has me thinking. Some day idea.gif

Posted by: Coondog Dec 10 2017, 11:07 AM

Awesome garage. Congrats

Posted by: mepstein Dec 10 2017, 11:40 AM

That’s a great space. Congrats!

Thanks for the tip in the garage floor coating. I read up on it and it’s what I will lay down in the spring.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 11 2017, 06:51 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 10 2017, 09:40 AM) *

That’s a great space. Congrats!

Thanks for the tip in the garage floor coating. I read up on it and it’s what I will lay down in the spring.


There are three suppliers of the polyurea coating that sell to the general public, I did the math and thus far garageflooringllc.com is the most economical however, they also have the longest cure time, 72 hours. Still, I will probably be going with them.

When you are ready, do a lot of reading on floor prep, this is the most critical aspect of any coating whether it is epoxy or polyurea. The previous owner threw down a cheap epoxy coating in the main garage then stuck self-stick carpet on over it. Because he failed to prep the floor, all the coating came up when the carpet was removed. headbang.gif

Here is the article that I happened upon that explained the difference between epoxy and polyurea. It also lists the other two vendors which although they are more expensive, their cure time is a lot shorter.
http://allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/

Posted by: mepstein Dec 11 2017, 07:19 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Dec 11 2017, 07:51 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 10 2017, 09:40 AM) *

That’s a great space. Congrats!

Thanks for the tip in the garage floor coating. I read up on it and it’s what I will lay down in the spring.


There are three suppliers of the polyurea coating that sell to the general public, I did the math and thus far garageflooringllc.com is the most economical however, they also have the longest cure time, 72 hours. Still, I will probably be going with them.

When you are ready, do a lot of reading on floor prep, this is the most critical aspect of any coating whether it is epoxy or polyurea. The previous owner threw down a cheap epoxy coating in the main garage then stuck self-stick carpet on over it. Because he failed to prep the floor, all the coating came up when the carpet was removed. headbang.gif

Here is the article that I happened upon that explained the difference between epoxy and polyurea. It also lists the other two vendors which although they are more expensive, their cure time is a lot shorter.
http://allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/

I will grind the floor. Once I clean it out, it really doesn't matter if it takes a day or 3. Its not my main garage.
I read all the articles. Lots of good info. Seems perfect for what I want.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 27 2017, 06:24 PM

Bit the bullet and dropped the dough on the Polyurea coating system. Wife said it was my Christmas present. beerchug.gif

I spent the last few days prepping the workshop for the coating. It took two full days to grind the concrete and another day to chemically etch the areas that I couldn't get to with the grinder and clean all the dust up.

I got the last part of the system today and will lay the coating down tomorrow. Pictures to follow when I have it done and I'm writing up my experience so I can share it with others, hopefully someone will find it useful when they decide to do it as well. I read a lot of other people's experiences so figured I should share mine once it is done.

BANZAI!!!! happy11.gif happy11.gif happy11.gif

Posted by: mepstein Dec 27 2017, 06:38 PM

QUOTE(stephenaki @ Dec 27 2017, 07:24 PM) *

Bit the bullet and dropped the dough on the Polyurea coating system. Wife said it was my Christmas present. beerchug.gif

I spent the last few days prepping the workshop for the coating. It took two full days to grind the concrete and another day to chemically etch the areas that I couldn't get to with the grinder and clean all the dust up.

I got the last part of the system today and will lay the coating down tomorrow. Pictures to follow when I have it done and I'm writing up my experience so I can share it with others, hopefully someone will find it useful when they decide to do it as well. I read a lot of other people's experiences so figured I should share mine once it is done.

BANZAI!!!! happy11.gif happy11.gif happy11.gif

Interested. Thanks!

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2017, 04:45 PM

OK, the floor is done. First up observations.

1. 1500 SqFt is an ass kicker! blink.gif
2. Use proper PPE (personal protective equipment) when putting down the coating especially the paint respirator. The fumes are pretty heavy, you NEED a respirator! Use gloves, lots of them. Get a box of nitrile, latex or whatever but use them. You will go through a lot of them. Make sure you have a dust mask if grinding the cement.
3. Take the time to properly prep the floor. Grinding is the most preferred but also the most labor intensive. I did a chemical etch on the areas that the grinder could not get to.
4. Section off your work and lay the coating by sections. This helps determine how much is needed per section, and gives you a good feel for how thick it should be. I did not do this initially so some areas are heavier than others.
5. Use a hand held quart measure, painter's helper cup, and pour a quart at a time to work with especially the base coat. Don't pour a big glop on the floor, make a ribbon that you work with, it is easier and spreads better.
6. Use spikey shoe strap-ons, you will have to walk on areas where you have laid coating, you will need the spike shoes.
7. Clear coat is really friggin slick!!! Be very cautious when you walk on it with the spike shoes. The anti-skid ingredient, if used, doesn't work until after the floor dries.
8. Clear coat goes on a lot easier and quicker than the base coat.
9. If you grind and use water with the grinder, use two people. The slurry masks the area as you go so you lose site of where you need to grind. The second person can work the hose and help spray the slurry away so you can see what you are doing.
10. If you are dry grinding, get a good vacuum to help keep the dust down. Same issue with slurry, the dust will obscure the area so you can't see what you have done and what you need to do.
11. Make sure the roller you use is for epoxy/polyurea application. DO NOT use just a regular roller. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes or order them on Amazon.
12. When using the anti-skid in the clear coat, always stir it well before applying to the floor. It is a heavy metal that will sink and settle, you need to make sure you keep stirring it before you scoop any up and apply it.

This is not a couple of hour project! It took me two days to grind the concrete and about a half day to remove all the dust and chemical etch the rest of the floor. It took me 7 HOURS to lay down the base coat. So basically, 3 1/2 hours for about 750 SqFt, it is very labor intensive and the base coat is the most challenging to lay down.

It took me only about 3 1/2 hours to lay down the clear coat as the base is relatively smooth so the clear coat glides on easier. It is a bit more difficult to see the areas you have covered with the clear coat, make sure you have good lighting so you can see the "sheen" of the freshly applied clear coat.

Pictures will follow shortly, they aren't a lot but they will give you the general idea.




Posted by: billh1963 Dec 30 2017, 05:17 PM

I used this on my new buildings. Super easy to apply and you can see an immediate difference.

I've had my tractors on it and several trucks and it appears to be working as advertised.

https://www.concretesealersusa.com/ps104-lithium-silicate-densifying-wb-penetrating-sealer-w-siliconate-repellent-5-gal/

At some point I may add tiles for my working space for comfort and aesthetics.

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Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2017, 05:30 PM

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The concrete is new but it is very smooth so will not hold the coating, it needs to be prepped.
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This is a regular floor polisher with a Diamabrush concrete prep tool attached. It works well and is cheaper than a grinder. If you have a large space, I recommend a grinder. I switched to a grinder to finish the job
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The dust mask is simple but needed, a lot of dust was kicked up, my vacuum couldn't keep up!

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2017, 05:36 PM

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Fucking Leaves!! The concrete contractor didn't make sure the leaves were out of the slab so I had several that I had to pick out of the slab prior to laying the floor.
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Grinding done, you can see a difference in the floor texture.
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Swapped masks for a paint mask. No way you can handle the fumes without one and I had all three garage doors and pedestrian door open!
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Halfway done with the base coat.
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Base coat done!

You are supposed to wait a minimum of 6 hours before applying the clear coat. I gave it a complete day as I was sore as hell the next day. I finished up the clear coat today in about half the time and not nearly as labor intensive.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2017, 05:44 PM

Last of the pictures.

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These are pictures of the clear coat. You can see the sheen of the coat which is a good way to tell where you have missed. The base coat is somewhat glossy but the clear coat is much shinier when you are applying it and you can see the difference.

Additionally, with the anti-skip applied, the coating is somewhat yellowish so this also helps a bit when applying. With this product it takes 72 hrs to completely cure. There are other products out there from their competitors that take less time to cure but they are almost double the cost.

All I have left is to build cement ramps (easy to do yourself), get the electrical hooked up and start moving things in. I'll probably have things in before the ramps and electrical are in and it looks like the two post lift will go in next weekend. Perfect timing.

If anyone has any specific questions send me a PM and I will answer it best I can.

Posted by: stephenaki Dec 30 2017, 05:46 PM

QUOTE(billh1963 @ Dec 30 2017, 03:17 PM) *

I used this on my new buildings. Super easy to apply and you can see an immediate difference.

I've had my tractors on it and several trucks and it appears to be working as advertised.

https://www.concretesealersusa.com/ps104-lithium-silicate-densifying-wb-penetrating-sealer-w-siliconate-repellent-5-gal/

At some point I may add tiles for my working space for comfort and aesthetics.

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Nice, I had looked at several sealers but decided that this is my man cave so I want it to look a bit nicer than just concrete. biggrin.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 1 2018, 02:45 PM

Soooooo...a lot happened the last few weeks. We just got back from scheduled vacation today, we did a cruise to Honduras, Belize and Mexico. I start back tomorrow then on Friday, April 6th I no longer work for General Dynamics. cheer.gif

No, I didn't get fired, on the contrary my boss and the rest of the team tried to keep me but after two years of banging my head against a wall I finally decided I was done. Since I already have a retirement check it's not that big a deal unlike a lot of my co-workers. I have a lot of respect for them as they put up with a lot but, I don't have to.

I'll take some time off to get the garage finished off and I already have an offer from one of our suppliers to be a consultant for them which is I think the road I will go down. I also have a former subordinate of mine who is now retired and running his families coffee farm in Nicaragua who is interested in having me work with him to start doing some strategic messaging and social media outreach for his business. He was my top lieutenant out of the ones I had as a commander and we have stayed in touch throughout the years so I am excited at the chance to work with him again.

Hopefully I can finally start back up on the Teener as well as the MG and get these suckers back on the road! I couldn't do it at GD, I spent an ungodly amount of time at work and on the road. I learned a lot but I had less stress going into combat than I did running the Tactical Vehicle Program I was in charge of! Now I need to go and schedule a doc's appointment to figure out why my thumb and two fingers next to it keep going numb and tingly. I would wager 30 years of service contributed to whatever is causing this. dry.gif

Posted by: Philip W. Apr 2 2018, 08:10 AM

congrats on the re-retirement! -
fyi you numbness pattern in 1,2.3 fingers is C6 and C7 - it could be peripheral-pronation syndrome(entrapment of the nerve in the forearm) or lower neck- cervical stenosis from disc and joint degeneration is possible but it crosses 2 nerve levels so if your having symptoms in all 3 fingers its possible its multi-level involvement - x-rays and CT or MRI - most GP's will just refer to neurologist, which is probably the way to go if its coming from the neck- good luck, hope its just nerve irritation-

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 2 2018, 04:10 PM

QUOTE(Philip W. @ Apr 2 2018, 06:10 AM) *

congrats on the re-retirement! -
fyi you numbness pattern in 1,2.3 fingers is C6 and C7 - it could be peripheral-pronation syndrome(entrapment of the nerve in the forearm) or lower neck- cervical stenosis from disc and joint degeneration is possible but it crosses 2 nerve levels so if your having symptoms in all 3 fingers its possible its multi-level involvement - x-rays and CT or MRI - most GP's will just refer to neurologist, which is probably the way to go if its coming from the neck- good luck, hope its just nerve irritation-

We shall see, I have an appointment on Thursday and will probably get referred out. Hopefully it is an easy fix but ya never know. Met a fellow vet at the dog park a couple of weeks ago with the same thing and he said something similar to what you are saying but a lot less technical.

Posted by: stephenaki Apr 9 2018, 04:10 PM

Alright, alright alright... biggrin.gif breaker box and wiring is in from shop to transformer. Inspection is scheduled for Wednesday then I can have Florida Power and Light hook up the wiring and I will have power to the workshop. WOOHOO!

First order of business will be to wire up the lift once I have power. I plan on finishing up the cross members and getting the drywall up hopefully by the end of the week so I can start running conduit and wire to the breaker box. My goal is to have the shop completely wired up by the end of the month.

Since I am no longer working my ass off and traveling I should be able to get it all done then, I can start on the cars! aktion035.gif aktion035.gif

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 13 2018, 08:42 AM

Soooo...I've been a bit busy with the workshop and finally got all the wiring done and it passed inspection. I have the plumber coming out today to give me a quote on plumbing a bathroom and sink. All the walls are painted, J-trim is in place on the drywall and I put in a 4" vinyl wall base that I sealed with silicone to keep water out. Here is a small snapshot of what it looks like, I'm putting things away now and organizing.

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So here is my question for those in the know, I need to plan the air compressor system, I plan on running a line from one end to the other and on each side and a ceiling drop near the lift. All in all about 150 feet of line will be needed. Copper seems the way to go but I also saw some info on Rapid Air. Anyone have any recommendations on this?

Posted by: 914forme Jun 13 2018, 10:30 AM

I'm old school did it all in copper.

Iron pipe can also be used. Don't forget to put drop legs in it, and have it slope to allow condensation to drain out of the system and collect in the drops.

Also run one by the garage doors, and along the walls. Air is a great resource to have at hand. One by the door has 50 feet of hose on it. Wish it was 100 ft as 50 can be a stretch on a truck and trailer combo.

What no 220v for your compressor?

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 13 2018, 01:10 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Jun 13 2018, 08:30 AM) *

I'm old school did it all in copper.

Iron pipe can also be used. Don't forget to put drop legs in it, and have it slope to allow condensation to drain out of the system and collect in the drops.

Also run one by the garage doors, and along the walls. Air is a great resource to have at hand. One by the door has 50 feet of hose on it. Wish it was 100 ft as 50 can be a stretch on a truck and trailer combo.

What no 220v for your compressor?


I may have to hit you up on the fittings needed. The plug in the picture is for the compressor and it is 220v. biggrin.gif

I also have a 220v drop center of the shop in the rear for the welder.

I plan on putting four drops on the back wall, two on each side wall and one from the ceiling near the lift connected to a retractable air hose. Did you run 1/2" or 3/4" pipe? For the distance I am covering I think the recommendation is 3/4" pipe.

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 18 2018, 03:27 PM

OK, finally done. Well, with the exception of the air system but I will get that done later. I can now start working on the cars, first up will be the MG then I'll tackle the Teener.
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I will start with the wiring harness as it needs to be cleaned up and re-wrapped. Then I need to lay some heat matting before I put the harness into the vehicle. Lets see how quickly I can get things done! Helps that I'm retired and have nothing better to do biggrin.gif

Posted by: mepstein Jun 18 2018, 04:03 PM

Looks awesome. Congrats!

Posted by: Philip W. Jun 18 2018, 05:28 PM

that is really looking sharp!!
LOTs of space to clutter up- btw hows the hand numbness? hope its resolved

Posted by: stephenaki Jun 18 2018, 05:49 PM

QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jun 18 2018, 03:28 PM) *

that is really looking sharp!!
LOTs of space to clutter up- btw hows the hand numbness? hope its resolved


Still working it, had an MRI but I need to follow up on the results. It is still there, some days are better than others.


Posted by: stephenaki Sep 22 2018, 03:37 PM

WOOHOO! Had a blast at Okteenerfest even if I was sweating my ass off helping with cars. Too bad mine couldn't make it. I don't know if I will make it next year but I am gonna try a bit harder to get there. I did start plumbing the airlines for the compressor system so when I get that done it will be a big help.

Nothing like sweating copper to remind you about heat control! I was nervous about soldering the pipes against the wall when I stepped over some left over heat mat for the MG and had the idea of tacking it up behind the joint I was soldering to protect the wall. Worked quite well! piratenanner.gif

First two pics are of the pipes being prepped and readied for soldering.
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Soldered "T" joint for the second drop.
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One side wall completed.
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This is the far side wall, I have a regulator and dual filter/dryer in place as the last drop will be for paint equipment hookup. I am working my way backwards from the last drop to the air compressor. The back wall will have three drops and is 50 feet long so will be a long run.

The wall with the compressor will only be one drop but there will be a leg that goes up to the ceiling where I will have a retractable hose and reel hooked up. That one should be fun. Once it is all together I will check for leaks and re-solder any joints that I didn't get done correctly. Fun, fun fun... blink.gif

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