Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 9 2008, 01:35 AM

Well, I thought this would never happen, but she went up on the stands tonight.

-this may be a slower progress thread as I work and have practice till 8pm everday except friday. But, it will get done!!!!

Here are some pictures for now.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: rick 918-S Jul 9 2008, 07:56 AM

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 16 2008, 09:46 PM

So i have removed everything to drop the engine except the CV's.
I know I need a special 12 point start tool. What size is it? and does anyone have any good places to get one. Checked kragen already, and they didnt have any 12 point tools.


Also, i am trying to get the passenger seat out and it wont budge. The PO had the seats re-upholstered but upon re-installation the PO put the driver's seat on the passenger side and the passenger seat on the drivers side. The passenger seat is completely jammed and doesnt slide foward or back and only tilts in its current position. because it wont slide foward I cant access the 4 bolts that attach the seat bracket to the car. any ideas??

-Peter

Posted by: pankopp Jul 18 2008, 08:20 AM

good luck with the whole coversion, I have the ej-22 motor in my '70 914 and it is a blast! try using a long flat blade screw driver to wedge in between the seat lock and the rail and the passenger seat should slide forward. Thats what i have to do...

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jul 18 2008, 12:27 PM

Hazet is probably the best; PerfProd and the usual suspects will have them.
MetalNerd http://www.metalnerd.com also has good 12-point stuff. 8mm. Not really "12-point" they're 'triple-square' ...

But any NAPA store will probably have them - look on the pegboard of KD tools. You may find a version that you slip into an 8mm socket, in which case, get a good 6-point 8mm socket too.

Posted by: sk8kat1 Jul 18 2008, 12:29 PM

hey we can't leave our friends at P-parts off the list of a source of that tool either ...or a friendly local teener owner might let you just borrow it

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 20 2008, 01:35 AM

True....anyone close to Menlo Park, CA that wants to let me borrow the CV tool for an afternoon?

-Peter

Posted by: LvSteveH Jul 20 2008, 12:50 PM

Many auto parts stores actually carry the 12pts

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 20 2008, 01:28 PM

I just bought the tool online last night on metalnerd.com now back to the car to get that damn seat out!!

-Peter

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Jul 21 2008, 04:34 PM

Good luck with the conversion!!

-Tony

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 23 2008, 09:08 PM

Thanks tony!

-I got the motor today, i will post pics a little later

...and I got the seat out.

-Peter

Posted by: atomix8 Jul 24 2008, 07:48 PM

Any secrets on the seat (PB Blaster, etc), or did you just tug like hell?

Posted by: jimkelly Jul 24 2008, 09:03 PM

i have a v8 914 but with gas prices today - i am thinking it would be nice to put together a 1.8L or slightly better subaru conversion with radiator in engine bay, ducting air thru the passenger door and thru firewall. maybe no pass seat at all?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 25 2008, 11:22 PM

luckily I was able to remove the seat with the intention of putting in racing seats. But what I did was I removed the upholstery and the foam and then I drilled out the retaining nuts for the seat mount. My goal was to preserve the floor brackets I'll post pics later

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 26 2008, 02:40 AM

My car currently has a strong running 1.8L. (drove it home from Sacramento to Menlo Park..bout 3 hours... 75 the whole way no problems, and I also drove it pretty hard before it went on jackstands and it never hesitated or hick-up'd) It will be for sale...PM me if your interested

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 26 2008, 02:42 AM

Stripped interior---drilling out the nuts


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 26 2008, 02:43 AM

woops...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 26 2008, 02:45 AM

i am forever in debt to my parents for letting me takeover the garage...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 26 2008, 09:27 PM

Engine is out! will post pics later

-peter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 28 2008, 01:43 AM

So, updates for the weekend

-the engine is out!!!! my brother and my two friends came over to help with the removal. all went well. got a little hung up on some of the engine tin, but easily fixed with a little massaging of the tin.

-removed the rest of the floor tar, so now the entire floor and backpad is ready to be sanded/grinded down to bare metal then I will por-15 the entire inside.

here are some pics...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 28 2008, 01:44 AM

coming out...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 28 2008, 01:44 AM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 28 2008, 01:45 AM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:49 PM

Alright,

So here is what I have been up too. I started the process of grinding down all the rust and paint on the floor pans and firewall to find out exactly what is good metal and what will need to be replaced.

I took a quick brake of grinding and took about two days to re-fresh the gauge panel and the gauge bezels. I sanded them down to metal, primed, painted and clear coated.

I am almost done with the sanding/grinding of the paint and other 'stuff' that has accumulated on the car. After I am done it will get some POR-15....yeah baby!!!

I also got some more parts. I got the engine mounts from small car, the radiator (from a late 80's jetta, the same one that tonyakavw used in his second radiator setup). I also got a 16 gallon air compressor with a max 150psi from my friend who bought it for a fence he built and now has no use for it, so it is mine until further notice....hurray!!!!!!!!

So, I do have a few questions and then I will post pics.

-Can the POR-15 go directly onto the bare metal or do I need to add a coat of primer first??

-What type of sealer should I use to re-seal all of the joints where the previous white gooey material was or will the POR-15 be enough?

That is all for now, I know I will think of more questions as soon as I finish posting.

-Peter

pics to follow...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:50 PM

down to metal


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:51 PM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:52 PM

primed, painted, baking


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:53 PM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:54 PM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:54 PM

DONE!!!!


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:56 PM

Metal...lots o metal......and some rust


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:57 PM

...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 8 2008, 11:58 PM

rust....


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 9 2008, 12:01 AM

The tools I am using...

Various sizes of wire brush (crimped) wheels

2 paint/rust remover wheels

that big one is called a removal all brush or something like that...worked really well to get the first layer of bulky rust off

small grinding wheels, a couple different styles, VERY useful for getting the tiny joints and areas where the wheels couldnt get too.






Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: George H. Aug 9 2008, 11:43 AM

nice job keep it up

Posted by: malaga_red75 Oct 9 2008, 09:58 PM

So, nothing has really changed on the car since my last post since I have been away at school, I have had no chance to work on the car. However, I have been ordering parts for a while and was able to make it home last weekend between water polo games and look at my new parts, and yes I took pictures. So here ya go......

--Stage one clutch kit from KEP--
--Flywheel from KEP--
--Adapter plate from KEP--


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Oct 9 2008, 10:00 PM

--radiator--
--fans--
--parts porn--



-Peter


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Oct 9 2008, 10:01 PM

..


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Oct 10 2008, 04:58 PM

Excellent choice on the raditor And those fans look familar too. Those tools you are using for paint removal are identical to the ones I used. I'm actually amazed, you have literally the exact number and variety of tools as I do (except the small grinding stone bits).

Looking good!

-Tony

Posted by: malaga_red75 Oct 10 2008, 05:56 PM

Thanks tony, yea the small bits werent as useful as i thought but did help with some of the small corner style areas. I have a question for you actually. Where did you get your expansion tank and what style did you get?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Dec 1 2008, 12:02 AM

Hi,
updates:
The car has been to the body shop and back in a record 2 weeks for the hell hole repair work (it always helps when your mom went to high school with the body shop owner).
While it was in the body shop and while I was home on thanksgiving break, I did some work on the subaru engine. I took off the wiring harness and the power steering pump and the A/C pump. I also removed the intake and the alternator. I put on the KEP adapter plate and flywheel/clutch assembly. I mated up the tranny and just snugged down the nuts cause I am going to send the tranny out soon for a rebuild....Dr. Evil?


Anyways....My question is this:
When the tranny and engine are mated up, the clutch fork has way too much 'slop' before the clutch begins to engage. I then realized that this might be caused by the thickness of the adapter plate pushing the transmission out further than it used to be. So, do I have to compensate for the width of the adapter plate? Thanks in advance.


-Peter

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Dec 1 2008, 01:21 PM

I got my expansion tank from a local place (which has a web site) www.importedcarparts.com. Anyway, its the expansion tank from many late model Audi and VW cars. Its nothing special, just cheap. I think it was $15 or so.

-Tony

Posted by: malaga_red75 Dec 1 2008, 04:53 PM

Thanks Tony!

Anyone have an answer for compensating for the width of the adaptor plate?

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Dec 4 2008, 04:10 PM

The custom flywheel should compensate for this. I had no problems when putting my clutch in. I already had the adapter plate, so I ordered a flywheel and clutch kit from Kennedy and had no fit problems etc. That was perhaps the smoothest part of the conversion actually. Make sure you have all new parts in there including the bushing for the fork, etc.

-Tony

Posted by: malaga_red75 Dec 5 2008, 02:08 AM

Thanks Tony, I will not be at home for another two weeks...school....but when I get a chance I will replace the fork bushings...etc. and re-check my install.

Until then...studying for finals....I wonder sometimes why I am a CE major and not ME...seems more appropriate for my hobbies...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 17 2009, 06:03 PM

Hey guys,
Sorry I haven't posted in a while, I have been on my vacation and...well been vacating. haha!

Anyways, I have some things to post about the car so here we go-

-I tackled the radiator shroud and finished it. This was the biggest ???? for me and I am glad that I was able to do it. It was my first time working with sheet metal, so it isn't pretty but I think it will do the job.

-My uncle came over yesterday and today and welded in my floorpan, seat brackets, and tacked in place my engine mount for the subaru engine. He is now going to take the seat mount to his work and use the bigger 220 (we only had a 110) to weld it together. He did an amazing job and I don't know where I would be without his help thus far.


Next---

well, I am heading back to school in a few days and wont be able to work on the car for about a month but here is what will be next eventually.

-now that interior is done, paint with por-15
-paint front trunk with por-15
-run radiator lines (on the way from renegade) and install expansion tank
-hook up electrical and put the intake and alternator back on and then install the engine


that's the line-up for now. let me know what you think and oh yea....PICTURES!!! (and i have a clip of my uncle laying down a weld, but I'm not sure how to get that on here...youtube and then post link??)


First...test fitting and making panels



more.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 17 2009, 06:06 PM

Painted and finished


Seat bracket...spot welds drilled out...conveniently making holes for plug welds

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 17 2009, 06:08 PM

Welded in



Tacking in place



Welding

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 17 2009, 06:13 PM

last....finished



-Peter

Posted by: jimkelly Jan 18 2009, 10:47 AM

man - u should have been a plastic surgeon - that floor pan/ seat bracket weld job looks great! jim

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 18 2009, 07:21 PM

I wish I could claim it to be my doings....but it was my uncle. He was a welder in the navy and is still his profession. He raced in SCCA historic races with his Ford Cortina. Actually that whole side of the family was into cars. My grandpa owned a Ferrari/Packard dealership near Hillsborough, CA. Also, Phill Hill raced for him and was a family friend for many years (to my mother and her siblings). Spencer is the last name for anyone who wants to know.

-Peter

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Jan 19 2009, 12:39 PM

Looking great! Your sheetmetal work looks fine! Nicely done.

Posted by: cymaster007 Jan 20 2009, 11:06 AM

Nice job! Im in the process of putting the JDM EJ20 into my 1970 914, I used an old BMW radiator my father had laying around down i San Diego, and still need to clean up how the mounts look. How much did you spend on the kennedy adapter plate?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 28 2009, 12:17 AM

The KEP adapter plate/flywheel/pilot bearing and all necessary parts is about 500 shipped. I got a few other things that bumped up my cost.

www.kennedyeng.com


Looks good...I do have one concern with your radiator setup though (and others may agree) the radiator may be to close to the gas tank wall and have problems with getting the hot air out of the engine compartment assuming you are venting through the fenders.

going through the hood might be an ideal situation for your setup

not too sure... anyone else??

_peter

Posted by: jd74914 Jan 28 2009, 07:48 AM

I'd be concerned with both the lack of ducting and lack of exhaust area. Air will always try to go the path of least resistance which means that without good ducting it will flow right out your exhaust holes. As a rule of thumb you want much more exhaust area than intake area and I don't see how you can attain that with that radiator placement. In any case, those are just my opinions.

Peter,
The car is coming along nicely.

Posted by: charliew Jan 28 2009, 02:07 PM

007 all that setup will do is recirculate the hot air. There will not be enough area behind the rad. for the hot air to get away from the radiator. Sorry but you need a redo on that setup.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 28 2009, 10:17 PM

Peter,
The car is coming along nicely.
[/quote]


Thanks jd!!! I am now at school, so the car sits and will wait for me to return to hopefully fire her up. its getting close.

My uncle finished welding my engine mount bar so now the engine can be put in the car and will stay there. radiator lines are on the way, harness is ready to be put back on the car....oh boy.

I have one question about the fuel pump.

I have done some research and it sounds like a 5.0 mustang pump will work fine?

-do i need to get special fuel lines to accomodate size changes between 914 stock lines to pump to subaru lines??

Thanks in advance.

-Peter

ps. anyone go/went to Chico State?

Posted by: dlo914 Jan 29 2009, 03:01 AM

Great progress! Once i'm done with school n finances are steady imma start up a 914-subie project. Hopefully, i can find help with the electricals.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 29 2009, 12:43 PM

That was my second biggest concern (fabbing the radiator shroud was by far the most challenging). I took the easy and consequently more expensive route and had these guys take care of my wiring harness.

www.enginewiring.com
-my harness took a while to be completed becuase they had to order some more relays for me but very nice guy, really nice to talk to and he definately knows his stuff. now i have it back and it looks like a stock wiring harness for a 2.5 subaru 914!!

-Peter


anyone on the fuel pump?

Posted by: dlo914 Feb 4 2009, 05:20 AM

how much did it cost? b/c i think a friend of mine is thinking of starting a 914 project with the ej25. As far as cost so far how much have you spent? Engine, Harness, radiator and doo-dads. I think we might have found a roller for $500 out near riverside...MAN i wish i had kept that shell Tony gave me for free! CRAP!

Posted by: dlo914 Feb 4 2009, 12:40 PM

bump...

Posted by: pktzygt Feb 4 2009, 02:07 PM

From my experience so far(Just my opinions, not facts):
Tell your friend to go tohttp://www.renegadehybrids.com then give them a call to find out what a well made kit that needs very little fabrication costs. Search some threads on here for options that could be cheaper but probably more difficult (definately more skill needed). i.e. http://www.kennedyeng.com, but there as alot more to a kit that gust the adapter plate. TonyAKAVW's suby thread was very informative, but there are many others out there. Alot of dune buggy companies use suby engines. (http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com

As far as an engine search goes.... Concider other options than ej25, especially if price is a concern. I have seen those things go for free or over a thousand. Search http://car-part.com/ ebay, craigslist, ect. Look at the suby sites for a wealth of knowledge, parts and engines(http://www.nasioc.com)

Last words of wisdom (hopefully):
Oversearch....I had a motor delivered yesterday and just today I learned about a different place to get my wiring harness built. Expect to spend at least $1k more than you thought. I will be starting my own progress thread soon, but give him my screen name and tell him to contact me and I will talk to him in private about my lessons learned along the way.

Hopefully this helped. malaga red75 I'm following your progress and heres your thread back. Can't wait for the next update.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 4 2009, 09:17 PM

Hey guys...sorry for the delay, anyone ever take statics? really interesting but lots o' work!!


As far as cost goes. My computer got stolen a few months ago which had a nice spreadsheet with everything I bought on there....and no I didn't have an external...anyways I am still compiling a complete list of purchase etc.

But so far here is what I have bought:

Engine 1998 2.5 from an east bay dealer- 850, free shipping next day
--wiring harness/ECU and a few other things the engine needed--350

KEP (flywheel adapter kit, as well as stage 2 clutch package) ~1000

Renegade (cooling lines and hose adapters)~160

Smallcarperformance (engine mounts...vanagon mounts) - 240

Radiator - $75 ebay
--sheet metal to make shroud $25 (i got a 4'x4' sheet of 23 guage...and i have A LOT left over...probably enough for another radiator...ill have to make something)
--fans (both from ebay) - 50 for two
--assorted materials to create shroud(screws, steel...)~20

Wiring harness re-working - 500

Total 3225


Those are the main items...Ill try and attach my spreadsheet that I have that has some other little things that I bought.
 Porsche_cost_list.pdf ( 23.09k ) Number of downloads: 559



I still have a few purchases left such as the Exhaust stubs ~250 and the shortened oil pan~270 which will put me at about 4k even. I gave myself a cap of 5k to have the car running and driving the way I want it. So I still have another 1k that Im sure will get spent. My conversion is based GREATLY off of Tonyakavw-amenson- and budman and many others. I probably read Tony's 29-page thread 10 times, some pages more....like his radiator....notice the similarities?

just a side note to those who want to do a conversion....

I drove my first 914 when I was about 13....got my own at 15 1/2 and after driving my car for about 6 months and realized the potential of the car, I needed more power...since then I have been forever researching this site and the other sites, finding information on every single conversion. I can't tell you how many times I went from V8 to subie to rotary to v6 buick to 6 cylinder to big type 4 then to wanting a 240z...(im sure you can search my name and find a few threads about different conversions)...you know how it goes. Anyways, I guess what I am trying to say is that I spent a lot of time figuring out what I wanted in my car...I always kept an image in my head and day by day it would change. And now, 3 years later, after tons of research I am confidently building this car the way I want it and i know what I want my end product to look like.

And FYI...all you bay area folk...were going to have to have a drive out 84 to the beach when my car is done....by far my favorite road of all time.

Posted by: forrest39 Feb 4 2009, 10:20 PM

Peter,
I have a stock '73 teener that I upgraded to 2.0. But, I did put a EJ22 in my vanagon, so I know the subie side pretty well.
As for your fuel pump, the stock pump (front mounted) will work fine. Mine stock 73 pump let go a few months ago and lack of availablility led me to do the new pump 'conversion'. So I made up a door, bent some tubin, ran a wire... blah..blah...
I noticed it was the same pump in my vanagon.
An excellent recource on the subie side is the yahoo group subaruvanagon. Don't tell anyone it for a teener as you'll get thrown under the bus (no pun intended...)

Cheers!'-Kevin

Posted by: dlo914 Feb 10 2009, 04:18 AM

TTT...

Posted by: malaga_red75 May 28 2009, 12:46 PM

Hey guys-
I know it has been a while but I have been at school and finished finals last week and finally got back to working on my car. I decided to start the process of wiring the car. I had my wiring harness re-built by a company and have it back but I am having a little trouble figuring out what each connector goes too. There are also a few wires that need to be connected to the 914 that I need some help on. So, here are the pictures, hope you can help.

First, these are the 4 wires that need to be connected to the car (besides fuel pump and fans and gauge wiring). In order, left to right, the tags on the wire say:

Battery power (ok, i know this one)
Power during startup ( possibly for the starter motor connection??)
Ground in neutral
Iginition Power

The first 3 wires are about 20awg and the 'Ignition Power' wire is about 12awg





Next, these three pictures are of connectors that go into the engine bay.

Posted by: TonyAKAVW May 28 2009, 01:12 PM

"Ground in neutral" can just be left open all the time. Unless you want to figure out a way to detect neutral and close a switch But it really shouldn't affect anything.

Power during startup can go to where the starter relay gets its power, and the ignition should be connected appropriately to the 914 wiring harness. I forget where, but basically its power that is available when the car is running.

-Tony

Posted by: malaga_red75 May 28 2009, 01:23 PM

Thanks Tony! I was hoping you would answer. That is what I was thinking I just wanted to be sure before I started connecting wires.

I still feel like I have more connectors than you did on your harness. How does the subaru harness connect up to the 914 starter motor? I think these wires may have been capped with a subaru connector which I may need to take off.

All answers welcome!!

-Peter

Posted by: TonyAKAVW May 28 2009, 01:51 PM

I left the starter connected to the 914 I believe. Although I may have added a relay since I got rid of my relay board. I really should put my schematics on line somehow...

-Tony

Posted by: pktzygt May 29 2009, 03:48 PM

Please

Posted by: charliew May 29 2009, 11:25 PM

I would think the 914 starter wire would go to the starter as that never changed. Think about the stuff that hasn't been changed as going back like it was. Then think about the suby and what the motor needs to run. 12v power all the time, ground (a really good ground), the fuel pump wire that usually powers a relay that powers the fuel pump, and probably a switched 12 power wire from the starter switch when the key is on. The relay for the fans for the radiator. The old motor harness might have some gauge wires you might want to save to hook up on the suby after you get some gauges, Such as maybe you can use the oil light wire for a oil pressure gauge and you might be able to use the temp light wire for the water temp gauge wire. Just the wire not where the 914 had them ending up but to save running extra wires to the dash from the motor. I don't think you can run a water temp gauge off of the water sender for the suby ecu you will probably need a sender for the added gauge.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jun 3 2009, 05:00 PM

That schematic would be nice, as I have never seen such a well though out wiring system for a suby 914. I think I will need to get a relay for starter motor too as I have also taken out the engine bay relay board. Any ideas on where to get one, I saw a kit online.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/repsite/bosch~starter_relay_kit~reparts.html

Will this work?

also, I have been doing a lot of wiring lately, getting the suby harness in the car connecting appropriate wires and running the wires for fans, fuel pump and all that, I have been taking pictures along the way so hopefully I will try and get some up tonight after practice.

-Peter

Posted by: TonyAKAVW Jun 3 2009, 07:00 PM

That should work fine.

Now if I could only find time for those schematics I have several pages of hand drawn stuff that probably doesn't even make sense to me now

Posted by: cymaster007 Jan 30 2010, 12:48 PM

I hope all your progress is still going well!

Has there been any update to this?

Ive vented and ducted the radiator, in the engine bay, I will be running copper lines for cooling under the car. Gotten a valve job on the ej20 engine, rebuilt the head and replaced the hoses. Ive also gotten my renegade kit in for mounting the engine. For fuel, ive got an msd hi-flow in line pump, subaru swap fuel lines are coming in from tangerine. As for electronics, I bought a stinger ECU and just need the wiring harness from outfront (outback) motorsports, put in a autometer tach, a Hks EVC 5 boost controller, outback will be dyno tuning it. Currently figguring out my piping for the intercooler.... Ill be running air/water intercooler. I also dropped off the eisher plans for the cable shift system for the tail 914 at my machinist friend whos fabbing it up for me and rebuilding my tranny. Got my upholstery in a shop down in Irvine detting dressed back up and a new momo steering wheel.

If you want some pics or measurements of anything let me know.

Posted by: cymaster007 Jan 30 2010, 12:50 PM

also my budget has been tracking at about a final cost of 8000$ when everthing is complete not including the cost of the car itself.

Posted by: kg6dxn Jan 30 2010, 05:39 PM

Be careful with copper lines. Copper can crush and tear with speed bumps. Copper also does not like too much vibration and can break. Finally, Copper is a great heat conductor. It will directly transfer engine heat into your floor boards. Rubber hoses will be a better choice.

Posted by: Porcharu Jan 30 2010, 07:51 PM

That class drove me out of ME when I found out I had to take something like 7 more similar courses to graduate. Hated physics too - should be a facinating class but it's just more math and I was done with math after 4 quarters of calculus. My roommate loved the stuff and ended up working at Tilton for many years until he left to design windmills (I know it's a wind turbine but I like pushing that button.)
Good luck at school and your project, maybe you will beat me to driving the finished car.
Steve

Posted by: cymaster007 Jan 30 2010, 10:30 PM

[/quote]

Be careful with copper lines. Copper can crush and tear with speed bumps. Copper also does not like too much vibration and can break. Finally, Copper is a great heat conductor. It will directly transfer engine heat into your floor boards. Rubber hoses will be a better choice.
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice, I did not consider the heat transfer into the floor boards, I will most likely wrap it in Tundra pipe insulation good for Polyethylene foam. -90 to +210 deg. I I actually have the rubber hoses I purchased but just didnt like the idea of rubber hoses getting punctured by rocks/etc... plus I will be getting free medical grade copper from construction demolition at work.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 1 2010, 07:16 PM

Hey guys,
I know I haven't posted in a long time. So I will try to catch everyone up on what has been going on.

Well over the summer, I got everything installed into the car.
-engine mounted
-radiator in
-all plumbing done, except exhaust

It was pretty much ready to start and the motor turned, but would never fire. I ended up realizing that I had some serious mismatches with my wiring/engine/ecu combo and everything was all fuched up. So that kinda stopped me in my tracks for a while.

Soooo,

I have decided to go with a EMS stinger from outfront motorsports and a custom harness from them. It should be here today I think. I will hopefully be installing it this weekend.

Minus the giant price tag, the Stinger will be AWESOME!!!
-Full programmability
-live diagnostics
-live readouts
-data acquisition and analysis


I will let you know when it is all in.

-Peter

P.S.

Does anyone have the big concave washers for mounting 911 sport mounts at the engine mount points on the chassis?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 1 2010, 07:19 PM

Yea, that happens to a lot of people. I stuck with it and I am now taking:

ThermoDynamics
Dynamics
Structures Analysis
Fluid Mechanics

After getting through the physics and yes, the 3 semesters of calculus (and 1 of Differential Equations) I am now studying the stuff that I enjoy learning about. And next year will be even more focused on my area of interest.

-Peter

Posted by: pktzygt Feb 1 2010, 08:10 PM

I almost ordered the link until I realized that nobody on the east coast tunes it.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 11 2010, 06:25 PM

IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!

Well, after a year and a half, I got it to start up today. I just had a few issues with timing, but after i got the right wires connected... BAM, started up first crank.

I will post a video later, but it is LOUD!!! and awesome. Can't tell you how happy I am.

Big thanks to Tony, Budman, amenson, and several others who helped me along the way. It is not driveable yet but who cares!!!!!!!!!!


-Peter

Posted by: strawman Feb 11 2010, 06:32 PM

Very cool! I can't to hear how it drives compared to the T4 engine.

I'm jealous -- my Suby-powered teener is still a long way off...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 11 2010, 06:59 PM

I can't wait either!!! I had a 1.8 in highschool and this one was a 1.7. And I always wanted that extra 100hp, and now I do!!!!



-peter

Posted by: oz371 Feb 11 2010, 07:03 PM

Nice!!!

Posted by: Zaney Feb 12 2010, 02:47 PM

I am in the same boat as Geoff but, CONGRATS!!!

Post some pics when you can!

Nate

Posted by: malaga_red75 Feb 13 2010, 06:59 PM

Here is a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZedRz-Lmr8

Posted by: VOX Feb 18 2010, 06:28 PM

congrats on getting it started! mines a long way off, havnt worked on it for awhile now.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 19 2010, 07:34 PM

UPDATE!!!!!!!


IT WORKS!!! Today I drove it around the block for the first time. Pretty exciting. there is no exhaust on the car so I only drove it for a few minutes. But I am stoked.

First thing I notice is that I feel like I am missing power. I will wait till I hook up exhaust and everything to really test it out..

I will post a video soon

-Peter

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 19 2010, 09:50 PM

Congrats. You are way ahead of me. As far as missing power, you haven't run the tuning yet, right?

And do you have a Gtech? That will help to get an idea of what power you have.

-- brett

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 20 2010, 11:19 AM

No, I havent run any tuning or anything. However, after some quick research... I realized I had the PCV valve and blow-by hose connected wrong. Not sure if I have the correct plastic piece that connects into the crankcase, so i will have to get that situate out. The subaru service manual said that if there is "low output, hesitation, and poor acceleration" then to check the blow-by hose. I DIDN't EVEN HAVE MINE CONNECTED!!! So that should help... it really felt like it was running on two cylnders.

ANd I have heard of Gtech before. Is that the standalone unit?

-Peter

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 20 2010, 01:08 PM

Gtech is a standalone accelerometer for getting 0-60 times, HP, etc. Pretty close estimation of HP numbers. You have a laptop and the tuner software? I am using a netbook with the link software installed.

-- brett

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 20 2010, 03:52 PM

Yes, I have a stinger and the tuner software installed. I need to read up on the tuning though. I do have the manual, I just haven't gone through everything yet.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:23 PM

so, a little update.

My 'missing a little power' ordeal turned out that the engine was only running on two cylinders. After further investigation, there was no spark getting to the back two cylinders (closest to the 914 transmission). After talking with Outfront and trying to trouble shoot over the phone and sending parts back and forth, i could not get it running.

John told me to check the timing because if it is off just a little, the sensor will miss the timing signal and not fire. I checked this and I THOUGHT it was ok. Under the assumption the timing was ok, I sent in my computer to get checked out, my last hope of an 'easy' fix.... it wasn't the computer. After re-installing the alternator to make sure that the engine still was running on at least 2 cylinders, it wasn't anymore, and after checking the timing again, i was an idiot and rotated the engine via the camshaft bolt and not the crankshaft bolt... FML. (by rotating about the camshaft bolt, i heard a few 'pops'. these pops were me jumping a few teeth)

so, i had to tell myself to stop, put down the wrench, and go get help. I called up Outfront and told them I would be there monday morning. Loaded up the trailer and left.

Turns out that it was the timing all along, and that somehow over the past 2 years, it got off. A big relief to know it was nothing serious, but a little aggravating, knowing I could have fixed it myself. However, I had an AWESOME time at the outfront shop and got to hang out and chat with the guys.

the Outfront staff are really a great group of guys who love to work on cars and I recommend them to anyone that has a subaru conversion and has questions. Anyways, I took pictures of the trip and thought you guys would enjoy!!!

-Peter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:26 PM

The shop...


Attached image(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:28 PM

My car on the rack in the background. The owner's sand rail in front... (it has a turbocharged 6 cylinder subaru engine... puts out about 700hp)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:28 PM

My car on the rack in the background. The owner's sand rail in front... (it has a turbocharged 6 cylinder subaru engine... puts out about 700hp)


Attached image(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:29 PM

Engine building area...


Attached image(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:30 PM

my car on the rack..


Attached image(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:32 PM

the shop...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:33 PM

So, tomorrow the exhaust is being welded on. Then it will be putting the car back together and driving it for a while and work out any kinks. I have a few more pictures to post, which i will do later, and also resize some of those previous ones.


-PEter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 04:35 PM

oh, and a little matching bling i got for my car today...


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: bfrymire Jul 27 2010, 11:17 PM

Awesome looking shop!

When is your car going to be back on the road?

Going to be LOTS of fun.

-- brett

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 27 2010, 11:43 PM

Hopefully in 3 weeks. That is when I have to go back to school (3 hours away) and I plan on driving it there. I have been able to drive it around the block a few times and give it a few good pulls from 2nd... wholy s#$% it was awesome. It should be making about 190hp with the EMS computer(although I will probably get it tuned/dyno sometime after it is has been running for a little bit), and I can definitely feel it.

Exhaust goes on tomorrow, then I should be able to start giving it a lot of test drives...I CANNOT wait for that to happen.


-Peter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 30 2010, 07:46 PM

It was a very exciting day today! I got my car registered this morning and had to wait all day for the exhaust to arrive from my uncles shop. Finally, around 4, he showed up. I put on the exhaust and took for its first true test drive...


IT DROVE GREAT!!!! The temp stayed steady the entire drive, tons of power, shifted great and sounded great. oh, the sound.... After driving it, I have realized that the exhaust is going to be too loud in the long run. For now it is fine, but it will have to be changed. I will most likely drive it until I get pulled over, then switch up the exhaust system... Im thinking maybe a boxster muffler might work well.

anyway, I am so excited that after 2 YEARS my car is back on the road and driving...this time however, with a subaru motor. life is good!!!

-Peter

Posted by: charliew Jul 31 2010, 01:29 PM

After you get it running and quieter if it has a noisey valvetrain you've got some bent intake valves. My son's sti had 8 barely bent .008-.017 bent valves and still ran good but the valves were noisey at about 3k. Compression and leakdown was still pretty good we think the valve stems were flexing and allowing the valves to seat while it was at tdc when we were doing the testing. Amenson had a similiar situation.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 19 2010, 11:48 AM

charliew-
I will keep this in mind when I get the exhaust on there.

Also, I had been struggling with the cooling for the last week or so, but got it figured it with help from Mike and Chris. Thanks guys!! you can read about it in this thread..

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109827

Anyway, I now have the car in Chico and have been showing it to all my friends and they all dig it. Once school starts I am going to show it to my engineering buddies who will have a little more appreciation for what is actually going on in there. In the meantime I have been cruising around town causing trouble and all is well so far. I am just waiting for the next issue to present itself... but until then i am just enjoying it! Its not that I don't trust the car... I just know that after 2 years of working on it, something is bound to happen, hopefully it wont be to big a problem!!!

If anyone is ever in chico, or is close by and wants to get lunch or something and go for a ride in the car, let me know.

-Peter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Oct 12 2010, 02:34 PM

Hey guys-

Thought I would post an update on the car. I had the car in Chico for about a month and I took it back home to my parents house a few weeks ago for the winter... and because the starter motor is done. Right before its death, I started to notice it was cranking slower and slower each time, finally it just would barely crank once.

I kind of expected this, especially with a JDM (higher compression) motor. Anyways, not really a big deal, but what starter motor do you guys use? I am thinking about the 911 high torque motor, but have heard that there are some issues with clearance?

So, conversion guys, what starter motors are you using?

Thanks,

-Peter

p.s. a 914 subaru conversion is everything I imagined. it was awesome to drive around, and cant wait to get it running again.

Posted by: bfrymire Oct 12 2010, 08:03 PM

I can't speak for the conversion, as I am not at that point yet.

But, I bought a HT starter from GPR for my 914-6 and I love it.

-- brett

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 12 2010, 08:09 PM

I used one of the ebay high torque starters.. I tried a 911 starter in my v8 and it just wouldnt kick. Ebay starter has never left me stranded... However back when I bought it, it was ~ 150...

Posted by: cymaster007 Nov 1 2010, 01:47 PM

For my 914 ive been using the Porsche 911 930 Bosch Starter 1970-74 for the ej20 and have not had any problems yet.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 08:54 PM

So, since my car is off at paint with andyrew, I thought I would update this thread.

Over the last year I painted the car with rattle can black and drove it whenever I was home from school. I also painted the inside with POR-15. The car drove mechanically great for the last year and so I figured it was a good time to move forward and get it looking nice. I saw Andyrew's paint thread and I PM'd him right away and we started working out the details. I am VERY excited for him to work on my car. I saw his car up close and it looks amazing!

I am going to be going with GT3RS Green and matte black trim.

Still up for debate:

- matte black the sail panel/targa bar or replace with new vinyl
- matte black the chrome or leave as chrome
- rolling rear fenders
- matte black or body color for the window bar

Here are some pictures of everything...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:06 PM

how bout a little bigger...




Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:14 PM

marked out...





cut and fitted on...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:18 PM

laying down the POR-15.






finished inside

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:25 PM

removing things..





the heads of the window screws just twisted right off. I will have to probably drill these out.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:27 PM

...even labeled things with drawings so I wont forget which screws go where.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 4 2011, 09:30 PM

and right before loading it on the trailer...



ready to go!!!!




-peter

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 5 2011, 09:03 AM

The Window mirror screws are going to be a PITA, Im going to soak them in some blaster to try and loosen them up, We will need to get a reverse drill bit and it should pop these suckers out in no time if they have some lube in them. I'll leave that one to you

I know the subaru radiators dont take much cooling, but have you run that bumper on the car in stop and go or high speed traffic? I think you might need a little more than that. Also your wheel well openings are a little bit small We can talk about that next time you come down.

PS those little screws are pretty much all the same and probably need to be replaced.

- matte black the sail panel/targa bar or replace with new vinyl
Matte blacking the sail panel will take a couple hours of sanding smooth and maybe some filler, then again new vinal will cost money. Personally I dont think the vinyl will look good if you have matte black on the rest of the car as complimentary colors, I think you should matte black it.
- matte black the chrome or leave as chrome
Black
- rolling rear fenders
You'll kick yourself later if you dont do it now.
- matte black or body color for the window bar
Personally I think this area should be body color.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 5 2011, 09:30 AM

Andrew-

Funny you mention the size of the opening, my dad said the same thing. Up until I brought it to you, I had been running with the bumper on to check the cooling situation. I don't think I was ever in heavy stop and go traffic, but normal city driving (and a little freeway) the temps were a couple degrees warmer than usual (maybe running between 178-183 as opposed to 175-180), but it never overheated or felt like it was going to overheat. maybe I will cut a little more out of the lower valence or widen the opening on the bumper.

I figured those screws were the same, but I seperated them anyways.

I am leaning towards matte black too for the sail panels/chrome, just something that came up when I was taking things off the car.


-Peter

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 5 2011, 09:59 AM

You have a really big opening in the front of the body which helps a lot, but I really would think it would be a good idea to go bigger on your bumper opening, Taller and wider. Notching out the lower valance isnt a bad idea either. The last thing you want is to be driving on a hot summer day at 70mph and see that guage start to go up.. Because once it starts, It just wont stop. That and doing hill climbs or going over big hills like the grape vine can really take a toll on heating systems. You should anticipate this and make your system as efficient as it can be.

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Jul 5 2011, 10:43 AM

I'm running a EG33 with about the same total size air openings as this car has. If the rest of the cooling system is correct you don't need a opening any larger than the GT oil cooler opening. I see a lot of peolpe cut way bigger openings than they need.

Bob

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 5 2011, 11:01 AM

I guess it depends on what 'correct' means. I had the car running in chico for about two months where temps were around 95-105 daily and the car never broke 185-190 (with only 1 fan running). However, this was without the bumpers on. I am just using this as an example that I believe my cooling system is working correctly.

I too think that the opening will be OK, but I would hate to get the bumpers painted and then have to cut more out later.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 7 2011, 12:10 PM

So, while my car is away right now, I have been thinking about what I want to put back on the car when it comes back. Here is a list of things that I want to put on the car (and most likely will start ordering the stuff this weekend). Let me know what you think.

Seats:

- Corbeau Clubmans; going to get two of these in black cloth. has anyone had any experiences with these? good bad? I was going to buy them online, but i think i might give partsheaven a call today or tomorrow and see what they have.

harness:

- I think I want 5-pt harnesses, but I dont know which brand to get and which mounting style. my first thought is just eye hooks into the firewall. thoughts? comments?

Front Targa seal:

- no explanation needed. will be getting this from 914rubber.com

Roll bar:

- I really like the look of McMark's GT half-cage. Very clean look while still stiffening the body and adding safety. Thinking I will jsut drive the car to his shop and have him put it in on the spot. save money on shipping, and give him the business.

rear suspension:

- right now I have KYB's and they sit way too high and are obviously very stiff. I had Koni yellows with threaded collars on my last car and they were AWESEOME. They are a bit on the pricey side, so i might look for alternatives. My only criteria is that the ride height be adjustable and they remain stiff. (maybe not as stiff as the kyb's)

steering wheel/quick release:

i really have no idea what I want to do for the steering wheel, but I would like a suede grip. The quick release will be there because the seats and rollbar will make it harder to get in and out around the steering wheel. Not to mention it is added anti-theft device


thats all I can think of now. But I appreciate your guys' thoughts on the above stuff.

-Peter

Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 7 2011, 07:27 PM

Seats:

- Corbeau Clubmans; going to get two of these in black cloth. has anyone had any experiences with these? good bad? I was going to buy them online, but i think i might give partsheaven a call today or tomorrow and see what they have.
Parts Heaven is not always cheap. weigh the cost of shipping. nice seats though.
harness:

- I think I want 5-pt harnesses, but I dont know which brand to get and which mounting style. my first thought is just eye hooks into the firewall. thoughts? comments?
5 point with a cam lock. Make sure they have an SFI 16 rating minimum
Front Targa seal:

- no explanation needed. will be getting this from 914rubber.com

Roll bar:

- I really like the look of McMark's GT half-cage. Very clean look while still stiffening the body and adding safety. Thinking I will jsut drive the car to his shop and have him put it in on the spot. save money on shipping, and give him the business.

rear suspension:

- right now I have KYB's and they sit way too high and are obviously very stiff. I had Koni yellows with threaded collars on my last car and they were AWESEOME. They are a bit on the pricey side, so i might look for alternatives. My only criteria is that the ride height be adjustable and they remain stiff. (maybe not as stiff as the kyb's)
Bilstein's are cheap and adjustable.
steering wheel/quick release:

i really have no idea what I want to do for the steering wheel, but I would like a suede grip. The quick release will be there because the seats and rollbar will make it harder to get in and out around the steering wheel. Not to mention it is added anti-theft device
I like suede too. I'm going to run my 911 wheel for now. Make sure your quick release does not release too easy. Mine requires two hands to pull 2 pins on opposite sides. Very hard for it to fall off.

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 7 2011, 10:22 PM

Seats: Sit in a REAL clubman, They feel JUST like mine and have that issue I explained to you earlier. I believe they are steel framed as well. You might prefer something that doesnt cut off the circulation on the back of your leg..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-RACING-SPORT-BUCKET-SEAT-BLACK-CLOTH-JDM-PAIR-/180692834039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1221d6f7

These are like what I have.


Harness:
These should bold to the back, have the proper mounts, and then go over a roll bar or harness bar (like mine) so that the forward motion of your body doesnt compress your spine in an accident. Oh and camlock should be a given.

Rear susp:
I vote koni yellows and Ground control threaded collars. Then springs of your choice (You can go for universal springs at this point because of the collars)


Wheel:
I like my momo! No opinion on disconnects.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jul 8 2011, 04:10 PM

Do the bilsteins take the stock springs? or should I get new ones while i am at it? Also, does the size (height) of the spring depend on the height setting of the bilstein?

also, if i lower the front end, how do i compensate for bump-steer? I have seen the kits out there but do they work? What else should I worry about when lowering the car?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 8 2011, 04:56 PM

As far as durability is concerned, the Corbeaus are great in my opinion. We have 12 of them in a driver training site in Panama seeing 20-30 butts a day, they're pretty rugged.

As for the 5 point harness? As cool as it looks, good for the track, dangerous for the street. I know that's not what everyone likes to hear (including myself) especially our generation.

Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 8 2011, 07:13 PM

Bilsteins will take the stock springs or you can get adjustable pearches and go with custom ones. If you lower it too much you will have bumpsteer. There is a cheap spacer kit to raise the rack/pinion up or go the more exspensive route and use turbo tie rods.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 3 2011, 07:09 PM

a little update...

I bought a few things for the car while it has been over at andrew's getting painted.

corbeau clubmans... (2 of them and harnesses)




koni yellows with threaded collars (I need springs for these, does anyone have 2.5" ID springs between 140-200#??)




I also felt the need to re-paint my subaru wheels.

When it's not one car, its another...



painted wheel....




all together....

Posted by: matthepcat Aug 3 2011, 08:15 PM

Nice wagon. Now I understand your Subaru engine inspiration. My wagon makes me want an EJ25 in the 914 too!

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 4 2011, 12:41 AM

oddly enough, I actually had started the 914/subi project before I got my wagon. But I had always thought the wrx wagon was a great car.

227hp
4 wheel drive
enough room for my drums or 4 guys and ski gear.
and 30mpg.... errrr if im driving 65mph the whole time.

gotta love it.

Posted by: matthepcat Aug 4 2011, 05:55 AM

Your 914 will fly. With free flowing exhaust and a tune the wrx comes alive, couple that in a light 914 ...wow.

Have you considered putting a VF43 turbo from an STI on the motor? Can be had very cheaply off www.I-club.com or www.nasioc.com

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 4 2011, 09:35 AM

The 914 motor is actually N/A but still puts out around 200 at the crank.

I've actually seriously considered taking the turbo off of my wrx and putting it on the 914 and then getting an STI turbo for my wrx.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 5 2011, 09:31 AM

So I have the Koni Yellow's and I am looking for a set of springs for them.

What is the right height to get for the spring? I have about 4-6" of threads on the collar to work with, but I want to lower the car 1-2" overall from stock height.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 9 2011, 01:21 PM

I had my uncle cut some parts for me for when I get the car back.

When i mounted the engine, I realized that the shift bar was hitting the engine mount bar whenever I tried to shift into 4th. (The bar rotates up when going into 4th and was hitting the top of the hole through the mount bar).

So, I decided to space the engine up about 1/4" to help alleviate this issue. I was originaly going to just use washers, but quickly realized that the force would distribute evenly... so I designed these in SolidWorks and had my uncle cut them using his CNC machine.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:20 PM

So, I took delivery of my car from Andrew on saturday morning.

I got right to work and had the engine in and fired up within a few hours.

I spent the next 3 days doing as much as I could before having to come back to school. I didnt sleep much, but it was all worth it.

here are the pics


bringing it home from andrews...

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 31 2011, 08:21 PM

Reduce the size of your pics boy!

You stopped at in and out in modesto on your way out ?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:22 PM

another shot on the trailer

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:23 PM

ahhh... i know. i thought itd be ok but i guess they are too big. give me a few minutes and ill reduce them... i was just being lazy.

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 31 2011, 08:26 PM

Set the DPI to 72. That'll help ALOT.

Set them to 1000 wide and auto tall

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:30 PM

hows this for size...

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 31 2011, 08:35 PM

Did you reduce it?

(PS the car looks fantastic in those blown up pics..) What are you using to resize it? I use ifranview and do a batch conversion. Takes 20 seconds to do a ton of files.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:36 PM

still too big... ill have to upload these on my other computer that has a better photo app

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:54 PM

working on the engine with new paint = nerve wracking!!

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 08:57 PM

mikey's front targa seal installed with a little bit of silicone adhesive and taped down for 24 hours..


(a really nice product!!!)




Attached image(s)

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 31 2011, 08:59 PM

http://download.cnet.com/IrfanView/3000-2192_4-10021962.html?part=dl-IrfanView&subj=dl&tag=button


We dont want to wait...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:09 PM

ok here are some more....

pieces going on...



rockers..

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:10 PM

i have another proogram that i use.. are they turning out ok?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:17 PM

i like the black trim around the sail panels... i was originally thinking black sail panels... but this looks kinda cool.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:18 PM

...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:20 PM

painting panels..









Attached image(s)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:21 PM

the list....

Posted by: moparrob Aug 31 2011, 09:21 PM

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:23 PM

exhaust..

Posted by: kg6dxn Aug 31 2011, 09:25 PM

Cool!

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:25 PM

more...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:27 PM

... still need to mount the harnesses

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:29 PM

as i left her on monday....

Posted by: malaga_red75 Aug 31 2011, 09:30 PM

didnt mean to duplicate... here is the other shot...





Attached image(s)

Posted by: Andyrew Aug 31 2011, 09:37 PM

Pics are turning out great!

Posted by: VOX Aug 31 2011, 10:57 PM

looking awesome!! let me know if your down in my area, would love to check it out, hopefully i'll be done with mines soon.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Sep 1 2011, 12:13 AM

I do want to take a trip down the PCH at some point and get my car tuned at Outfront while im down there. I'll keep you in mind if i do.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Sep 1 2011, 08:48 PM

so i am looking at getting a new steering wheel.

I want a suede grip and an overall smaller diameter. I have a few in mind but I don't know exactly what size to get. I did some research on the forum and it sounds like most performance wheels are 350mm, noticeable smaller than stock and fit well for taller guys.

The wheel in question is the MOMO mod 88 - either the 320mm or the 350mm.

http://www.momousa.com/products/products/steering-wheels/mod-88-steering-wheel.html

I also saw this one while searching for disconnects..

http://www.tekniqauto.com/US/wheels/popup964.htm

i've also been thinking about the Monte Carlo (even though its not suede) because it looks really nice.

let me know what you guys think.

-Peter

Posted by: AZ914 Sep 2 2011, 08:42 AM

Peter.. if you like the Monte Carlo, check out the Momo MOD 69 (350mm).. it looks about the same and is suede.

Car looks great!

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 2 2011, 09:20 AM

I just measured mine at a little over 13" outside to outside, I have hit the wheel many times with my leg getting in and it certainly takes a certain technique. I dont know if I could do it with a larger wheel.

Control is still very nice and I have plenty of strength to move the 255 profile wheel up front.

However your wheel your looking at has a flat bottom so that probably would help.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Nov 23 2011, 12:47 AM

Hey guys,

Car has been running great, but I ran into an issue with my brakes.

I had the car at school for about a month and it drove perfect. I brought it home and it sat for about a month. When I went to drive it for the first time a few weeks ago, the brakes had a spongee feeling to them. (took a pump or two to get good pressure on the brakes)

I bled the brakes before I took the car to school and they worked fine. Somehow I think I am getting air in the system, but I don't know where to start looking.

What do you guys think?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 23 2012, 08:43 PM

Hey Guys,


So I have a few updates on the car after being able to work on it a little over my winter break.

1) I started to add carpet to the inside...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 23 2012, 08:43 PM

Hey Guys,


So I have a few updates on the car after being able to work on it a little over my winter break.

1) I started to add carpet to the inside...

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 23 2012, 08:46 PM

2) I wanted to do something with the dashboard because the basket-weave was coming off. So, I came up with this...(It will all be flat black eventually)

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 23 2012, 08:48 PM

3) I made the decision to go with a 5-lug setup after I came up on a great deal on some original 16x7 fuchs wheels with a black powder-coat and some used tires.






details: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=157331

- So, I read through the 5-lug thread in the Classic Thread Section, and have a basic understanding of what needs to be done, but I am interested in your guys' opinions and experiences with the various strut/caliper combinations. For the fronts, I just want to do struts/calipers/rotors. I also stopped by Parts Heaven just to see what they had, and they had a setup out of a '85 or '86 Carrera for $1400. Let me know what you think.


-peter

Posted by: Andyrew Jan 24 2012, 10:03 AM

Thats a bit expensive IMHO, But I havent bought 5 lug lately. I would think closer to 1k would be a good pricerange. Im pretty sure I bought my setup with the rear for ~$750.


Carpet install looks great!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 24 2012, 12:15 PM

Looking great on the carpet! I remember you commenting when I put down the matte layer beneath the carpet, are you going to do the same, or just the matting? Either way looks awesome! Love the contrast between the green, the black seat and the grey!

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 24 2012, 02:33 PM

I knew this would be on the high side of pricing, but I just wanted a retail value for the stuff. I'll keep my eyes in the classifieds and maybe post a WTB.

anyone else with what they are running?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 24 2012, 02:39 PM

Thanks! It is just the carpet there, nothing beneath. It will be nice when all the pieces are done. Trying to get the car ready for WCR... hopefully with the 5-lug done too.

Posted by: VOX Feb 21 2012, 01:56 AM

what kind of carpet did you use? how do you apply it? i like the look and want to do the same. im guessing adhesive spray? but idk how to get the carpet to go smoothly over all the bumps and bends.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 1 2020, 06:56 PM

Well, I've decided to revive this 8-year-old thread to document the next iteration of my 1974 Subaru conversion.

The last 8 years...

I drove the car a lot for the first 4-5 years or so. Drove all the way down the coast to LA, several trips to Tahoe and used it as a semi-daily driver during the summers. Unfortunately, it has mostly sat the last few years only getting driven a few miles every couple months.

I have a little more time right now, and just sold my other 'project' car (Audi B7 S4 Avant). So, I figured it was a good time to get this car back on the road with some upgrades....

What I have planned:

1. Turbo the EJ25

- outfront header
- OEM Subaru turbo (TD04) set to ~7psi boost
- custom exhaust (tbd)
- keep EMS engine computer
- should put me around 250-270hp at the crank

2. Interior Upgrade

- fix cracked dash
- flock dash
- new layout of switches/start button, radio delete, etc.
- maybe center console?
- would like to add a heater of some sort, something small and standalone

3. Other overdue maintenance items

- new brakes (disc and pads all around)
- new front struts
- replace brake lines with braided stainless (replaced 2 a while ago, need to replace remaining 2


There are probably other things I am forgetting, but this is the majority. I've already done some mockups of the turbo to see how it is going to fit, I'll show that in the next post. Here are some photos of the last 8 years....

Still with the old 4-lug setup:


5-lug setup on:


Had a few of these over the years..


On the coast somewhere:


some more...


And here is where the car has sat for the last few years...


And just for fun.. this was my other project. 4.2L V8 After completing the timing chain/guide service:



Next post for mockup of the new stuff!

Looking forward to getting back on the world... it's been too long.

Peter

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 1 2020, 07:12 PM

So here is my first mockup of the turbo parts.

I got the header and turbo from jRust. Super nice, un-installed, still shiny parts from outfront. Everything fits (with some minor adjustments) except for the turbo blow-off valve. It hits the firewall and will need to be offset..

Issues that will need to be corrected to fit the new header/turbo setup:

- general re-arrangement of wiring, no biggie.
- space the engine up another 1/2" so exhaust will clear engine mount bar
- find straight thermostat housing (I think the 3.0L subie has this) to clear the exhaust
- offset blow-off valve. if anyone has any suggestions on this, I would love to hear it.
- my current thought is to just space the valve off to the right with cylinder spacers and longer bolts, then re-thread/bend the arm to fit. thoughts?

///////////////////

Birds-eye view of engine bay with header installed:


Close-up:


Turbo set in place:




Clearance issue with bov. Should be flush against the turbo to the left


Thermostat housing inlet pipe interference with exhaust:


Exhaust just clearing engine bar:


Additional spacing required to achieve exhaust clearance: (engine is on a jack right now for mockup)



////////////

So the big thing is the blow-off valve. The rest of the items are pretty minor adjustments. Overall, I think this is going to be a really clean way to run the turbo.

Let me know what you think and what issues I may be missing.

Peter

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 1 2020, 07:43 PM

Paint looks nice *Cough*

Seriously this'll be a fun project to watch!!! Cant wait to see it!

Your clearance issue is with the wastegate actuator, BOV is another part.

You might need to go external wastegate.



Intercooler?

Posted by: malaga_red75 Mar 1 2020, 08:43 PM

Thanks, Andrew! yes, the paint is still holding up very nicely for almost 10 years! In case everyone hasn't figured it out, Andrew painted my car

And thanks for clarifying - my turbo knowledge is still limited. yes, it is the wastegate actuator that is hitting the firewall.

My plan is to go with no intercooler. I've read the info on outfront's website, and with this setup, as long as I stay ~7psi boost, it isn't needed. What do you think?

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 2 2020, 09:46 AM

You can get away with it. You'll need to log IAT's to make sure and you'll have to run lower timing. Also anything you can do for heat management will help. A small air to air wont help much as you dont have any flow. A small air to water will but it'll add weight and complexity to the system. I run a BIG air to water and my IAT's are Low low low.

Posted by: malaga_red75 Apr 11 2020, 09:49 AM

So, finally got some time to post some updates.

1. Got the car up on jack stands and got the engine/tranny out
2. started to clean up the engine so I can replace the water pump
3. I started to clean up the engine bay because I was lazy when I did this conversion 8 yrs ago.
4. made some renderings on how I want the interior to look after this.


Two issues I came across

1. I talked with the guys at Outfront, and they basically said that I could not turbo my motor because of the high compression compared to a turbo motor. My motor is at 10:1, and he said a turbo motor needs to be around 8:1 - unless I run race gas or E85 - or reduce the compression. Any thoughts on this?

2. I looked inside the cylinder with a scope (kinda wish I didn't) and I found some oil inside the cylinder. See photo below, this is taken looking in through the spark plug hole. Is this concerning? The engine always ran great and no smoke.


Photos:
Back on jack stands...

https://imgur.com/3dPVrP1


Dirty motor and Clean Motor:

https://imgur.com/n0ajX4W

https://imgur.com/oEwAMMn

Oil in the Cylinder:

https://imgur.com/iFTLR8d

Dash Render:

https://imgur.com/QH868tL

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 11 2020, 03:46 PM

Love the render and the progress!! Keep it goin!

Posted by: malaga_red75 Apr 11 2020, 04:39 PM

Thanks, Andy.

Any thoughts on the compression issue with the turbo? Or the Oil in the cylinder?

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 11 2020, 05:30 PM

Low compression turbo motors are old school. High compression is the new school. It just means a hell of a lot of timing pull. But what it does is give you LOW end power and fast boost response. You might have to drop your boost on the higher rpms but the sacrifice should be OK. You can always go with meth injection to help but be careful.... I would just say either tune for E85 and enjoy the extra 50-75hp or have a low/high boost setting and throw a couple gallons of e85 whenever you go high boost. Shoot for E20/25. Not enough to require a retune but it's about 100 octane and dirt cheap.



As far as the oil, with it being a flat motor I really don't know... I would think it would be a bad PCV or something that's letting crankcase oil get in there but the piston doesn't have excess carbon build up... Id ask the Subaru guys...


But Id run it till it pops...

Posted by: malaga_red75 May 4 2020, 09:28 PM

Got some more to update:

1. started to clean transmission. Just trying to get a layer of grime off while its out.
2. Figured out why I was having a coolant leak. There is a small rubber seal between the pump and engine housing - it must have dislodged when I replaced it several years ago. New seal ordered.
3. Replaced front rotors. Waiting on black caliper paint. Will paint calipers, replace pads, replace front brake lines with SS braided (rears already are SS) and then reinstall.
4. Got new bilstein strut inserts installed. I have a question here...

The old boge strut inserts had a pair of washers at the bottom to center it up (see photos). They didn't seem to fit the shape of the bottom of the bilsteins, so I did NOT reinstall them. The bilsteins now sit flush against the bottom of the strut housing. Is this correct? Let me know what you think.

Next on the ToDo List:
1. Finish front brakes
2. Start/Finish rear brakes.
3. Re-assemble engine once I have all the new seals (I got some other misc rubber gaskets to replace as well)
4. Start work on interior.


Photos to follow...

Posted by: malaga_red75 May 4 2020, 09:33 PM

New brake parts (Front/rear rotors and pads, brake fluid):

https://imgur.com/DyAFhhy


Transmission Cleaning:

https://imgur.com/WqhS7y4

https://imgur.com/wQ5CX2T


Removing Timing Belt to get to Water Pump:

https://imgur.com/RHyFMgZ


Rubber Seal that was never seated correctly:

https://imgur.com/2gOxGFa


New and Old Rotors....

https://imgur.com/b1za3vl


New / Old Struts:

https://imgur.com/QHL1fQU

https://imgur.com/ItUstYU


Pair of Washers I have a question on... Should these be in there with the bilsteins too?

https://imgur.com/9DOQ0ZR

https://imgur.com/0yj76j6