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Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 10 2008, 09:26 PM

I want to do my cabin. Floors, interior firewall. Not planning on doing doors.

I'll use either Fatmat or Dynamat, but I don't know how much to buy.

Which of the two do people like best these days.

Zach

Posted by: turnaround89 Aug 10 2008, 10:57 PM

If you want your car to be dead silent, dynamat is what you would want. This is coming from my experience from using dynamat in a 71 vw bug. I have never used fatmat but i have used edead, which is a heck of a lot cheaper than dynamat and does the exact same thing. Dynamat is really thick stuff, so you will add a lot of weight to the car but will do more than edead since it is thicker. I plan on edead since i have some left over, or just leave the stock stuff in the car. But if you want the car totally silent, i would suggest dynamat.

On ebay you can buy a box of dynamat that has like 36 sq ft in the box. That covered the entire inside of my doors, the rear luggage shelf and then some further forward in my vw, also the inside the rear quarter panels, and i still have one sheet left over plus some scraps.
here are some pictures, i hope this helps.
Here you can see the dynamat covering the inside of both doors



Here is what i ended up with coverage wise with one sheet still left over. You can see the dynamat on the inside of the rear quarter panel.

Posted by: boxstr Aug 10 2008, 11:11 PM

I would use fatmat, it is better priced than Dynamat and it works just as well if not better. I have used Dynamat and it works great but is expensive. They sell only in either small batches or large batches.I do not know what edead is???
CCLINSHHHHH

Posted by: orange914 Aug 10 2008, 11:23 PM

i've heard there is a commonly sold material sold in harware stores that used under roofing in snowy areas. it is supposed to be way cheaper?? and very simular to dynamat

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 07:15 AM

How much do I need to do the cab of my car, though?

I don't want to buy more then I have to. If 36 sq feet covered a bug interior, that should also do a 914 right?

Zach

Posted by: blitZ Aug 11 2008, 07:20 AM

I bought the FatMat bulk pack, I think it was 50 sq ft. There was enough to do my floor and interior/exterior fire wall. If you just wanted to do the interior, I believe 36 sq ft would be enough.

Posted by: SLKWrx Aug 11 2008, 07:59 AM

You could also check out Raamat. Its cheaper and just as good

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 08:53 AM

Wow. Here is a killer site for sound deadening comparison!

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/

Fatmat is one of the worst products tested. It had nearly earliest failure on every test.

Looks like RAAMmat is the best option if you don't want to spent a ton of cash.

Zach

Posted by: So.Cal.914 Aug 11 2008, 09:16 AM

I noticed that RAAMmat is butyl rubber. Now this may be obvious and I am just

catching up But is not the whole point of removing the old sound material because

it became brittle, cracked and allowed water to get between it and the metal.

Causing Rust.

What is going to keep the same thing from happening under this butyl based

sound proofing?

Posted by: PRS914-6 Aug 11 2008, 09:24 AM

I have never personally tried it but I hear that there is a cheaper solution....way cheaper. You can buy a roll of roof repair sheeting. It's about 12" wide, is designed to go under composition shingles to patch holes in the plywood, is adhesive backed and dense with similar composition to the deadening materials. I have one friend who tried it and said it was a big improvement at a fraction of the price. YMMV

http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11338

Posted by: azbill Aug 11 2008, 09:33 AM

I used B-Quite it is less then half the price of Dynamat and has better performance. Check it out.

Bill

Posted by: turnaround89 Aug 11 2008, 09:50 AM

A lot of people talk about using peel n seal, the roofing material you can buy at lowes, home depot, etc. I have never heard of anyone claiming how well it works, but its worth a shot if you trying for a budget. But then you could just buy edead which is as cheap as peel n seal, and designed to be put in automobiles.

Posted by: mstein95 Aug 11 2008, 10:19 AM

I used 3 Dynamat Xtreme Wedge Paks (12 sqft) to cover the back firewall if that helps in estimating how much you need.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 10:26 AM

Butyl is supposed to be the way to go these days.

According to the site is posted that did testing, the asphault based products fail (ie - fall off your car) if it gets too hot or cold.

What surprised me is that FatMat, which gets a LOT of praise here, got really slammed in the reviews.

Testing was not done to see how the Butyl products stand the test of time. The implication is that they will last longer then asphault based products.

Peel and seal was mentioned in the testing. Appearently, FatMat is very similar to peel and seal.

Zach
Zach

Posted by: michaelt55 Aug 11 2008, 01:11 PM

I have been thinking about this also...tell me which you way you decide to go and how it works for you. I be very interested in the results..


Michael

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 01:15 PM

I bought RAAMmat. It is sold in 62 sqft rolls. I should have enough for my 914 and maybe enough to do the cab of my m715. I will bump the thread once I see how things work out.

Zach

Posted by: djm914-6 Aug 11 2008, 02:12 PM

Me too. Does anyone have any photos of a 914 done up?

Since I'm working on getting my interior back into place (and other stuff) I'm rethinking the 'lighter is better' bit and may go with 'quiet is nice' instead.

Posted by: melnyk Aug 11 2008, 04:29 PM

its called ice shield. after i do my floor pans i plan on putting this stuff on inplace of that tar carp they have on

Posted by: melnyk Aug 11 2008, 04:32 PM

oh btw my neighbor works at the factory where they make this so i get it cheap. if it works im thinking about making pre cut pieces...

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 05:46 PM

Is it asphault based? If it is roofing material, then it probably is.

If so, you might want to rethink it. All the better soundproofing is going away from asphault due to its failure rate. If your car sits in the summer sun, your solution may melt and come off the car.

Zach

Posted by: r_towle Aug 11 2008, 06:02 PM

I will try to be brief...but it gets harder as I get older.

Ice and Water shield (grace chemicals) is butyl based and its actually uncured rubber. This allows it to stretch around the nail heads and it sticks like glue and eventually is impossible to remove with a little bit of heat.

Sound deadening is done with two approaches.
One is to thicken the base metal and therefore elimintate vibration noise that is transfered via the panel. This is why trunk floors and floorboards are not just flat...they would vibrate to much. This is also why most door panels have some thickening done in the middle of the panel to negate the vibration.

The second thing to stop is sound waves. Sound waves travel at a certain frequency like waves. These waves have certain spacing between crests. Certain waves can be stopped by certain materials. Not all waves will be stopped by one material...
So, use rubber to not only thicken the base material, but this will also stop a certain number of waves...so it halts a certain sound spectrum.
Now, use aluminum glued to the top of the rubber.
This stops certain waves that the rubber wont stop.

Its not perfect, but by using both rubber and aluminum foil you will stop more sound waves.

I have used Ice and Water shield and it really does work fine, but I am not an audiofile guy looking for a setup for audio system that is smoking hot.

Use Ice and Water shield for simple sound deadening, it works great.
It has no aluminum layer, so it will not block the additional sound waves that aluminum does block.

There is alot more to look at, but you can cover both sides of the firewall with ice and water shield and it will be very very quiet.

Rich

Posted by: PRS914-6 Aug 11 2008, 06:05 PM

Posted by: r_towle Aug 11 2008, 06:08 PM

Tis what your wife said last time she dropped by....

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 11 2008, 10:45 PM

Thanks for the down-low on that Ice and Water seal.

Zach

Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 12 2008, 07:34 AM

On the asphalt melting issue...car companys have been using it for years and still are.
I'm going to look at the ice and water stuff when I do the bug floor.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Aug 12 2008, 08:35 AM

You live in Canada. It does not get warm enough there to melt water, let alone asphalt.

Zach

Posted by: r_towle Aug 12 2008, 08:47 AM

Mark...

Two types of rubber (you may not be able to get Grace Chemical stuff)
Its easy to spot.

Cured rubber is what an inner tube is...its dry.
Uncured rubber is soft and can be rolled into a ball, made into any shape you want...then once cured...hold that shape.

The Ice and Water shield is just uncured rubber...with a significant glue on one side that makes it stick to air, you, your hair (that one sucks) or pretty much anything...its really sticky.

Touch one sticky face to the other stick face and you will learn what the work sticky really means....it fuses together instantly.

One way to get it to work is freeze it...(leave it outside)
Put it on a frozen surface (cold car, no heat in shop that day)
You will buy a little bit of time to move it around.
Then use a heat gun and it will fuse with the panel forever...

I have a porch roof I built that I used the stuff on.
I changed a portion of that roof and no matter what I used I could not get the stuff to seperate from the wood substrate...its amazing stuff.

Same treatment goes for Dynamat...but I suspect the glue is more forgiving with Dynamat given its intended application.

Rich

Posted by: retrofit Aug 12 2008, 07:46 PM

I went into Home Depot today just to see if they carried a similar product. Surprise, surprise, they carry Quick Roof. Packaged in a roll that is 6" x 25' or 12 1/2 sq ft per roll, out the door for $15.00 at $1.20 per sq ft. Cheap! And, it does have the aluminum top sheet so you are getting a multidimensional product. I'm going to install it in my '74 2.0 and the '95 Chev dually.
Allen

Posted by: Dominic Aug 12 2008, 08:21 PM

Zach,
Here is a picture of the firewall (engine side) that I did in Dynamat super, I had good results with it. Of course it does not look original any longer.
Dominic






Attached image(s)

Posted by: stateofidleness Aug 12 2008, 08:42 PM

well i tried looking for you, but the search function has always returned 8973 pages of results for me so...

there's a member with a beautiful orange 914 (flared) that has pictures with dynamat installed.

the title of the thread was something about (how low can you go).. don't remember exactly, but it was showing it rolling out of the shop in the sun!

im sure somewhere here knows and can post the pic or link!

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 12 2008, 11:04 PM

I am finally getting the hang of the search function. The link was the second one on the page if you entered the phrase in parenthesis
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=81920&hl=how+low+can+you

Posted by: stateofidleness Aug 12 2008, 11:46 PM

you > me

thank you sir!

Posted by: Wilhelm Aug 13 2008, 12:38 AM

I'm going to do some type of sound deadener as well. I just don't want to get back into the rusty postion I was before with water trapped below the tar paper or whatever was in place before. So I see as my options as epoxy priming and using some catylzed paint to really seal the floor before I put anything over it or... I really think I'm going to do spray-in bedliner to the floor which I think will both deaden sound and create a nice fish pond for me.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 13 2008, 12:43 AM

I coated my whole cabin with POR-15 before I put the sound deadener pain (water based) on the floor and fire wall.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 3 2008, 07:50 AM

Zach, Did you get your Raamat? I ordered some after reading this thread Aug 22nd and still haven't gotten anything.

T.C.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 3 2008, 08:06 AM

I got it, but it took about 10 days to get to me.

I'm about 3/4 done installing it - assuming I don't break down and do the doors. It is really sticky stuff.

Zach

Posted by: charliew Sep 3 2008, 11:09 AM

In the 60's I redid a 39 chev and made a floor covering from asphalt 30lb. roofing and tin foil in layers, glueing it with black mastic, it really made it sound a lot quieter. It was the best I could come up with at the time. In texas it wasn't any cooler then than now.
I wonder why you would add a roll cage and also put in sound proofing which must add a lot of weight?
How much did the raamat kit weigh?

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 3 2008, 11:30 AM

I don't have a roll bar. ???

Anyway, the shipping weight was 36 pounds, maybe 40. I have no intentions of putting all of it on. Just the floor and firewall. It will be about 1/2 the roll, so between 18 and 20 pounds. Slightly more if I end up doing the doors (and I currently am not, but may in the future.)

Zach

Posted by: charliew Sep 3 2008, 12:57 PM

The guy with pictures of the vw had the roll cage.
I just called a friend who does early corvettes and he uses 72 sq. ft. and says it cost 440.00 for dynamat. He said from Eastwood where he gets free shipping for a yearly fee.
It looks like the raammat and the ensolite with two cans of adhesive is about 170.00, Thats 1 roll of raammat 62.5 sq. ft., 3 yds ensolite 36.00 and two cans adhesive 16.00 not counting freight.
Thanks for the link

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 3 2008, 01:08 PM

^^^^
unless you are sealing the doors, you don't need the ensolite or the adhesive spray. Raammat is seriously sticky stuff. Wear disposable gloves, and put on a fresh pair often.

I would suggest a roller, though. I am going to get one to go over my work. Its hard to get the mat to stick in all the nooks and crannies w/o one - even though Raammat says that you don't need one.

Zach

Posted by: charliew Sep 3 2008, 02:52 PM

Ok I have kinda wasted a really cool day in sep. which is bad. I found a product called Damplifier Pro, made by second skin, kinda sounds raunchy, that many claim is the best. Two guys could split a order for 80 sq. ft. from www.3rdstrike.biz it's 270.00 not counting freight. They get 155.00 for 40 sqft. They also have a neat stuff called motor mat for firewalls. My friend reminded me that we have free shipping at Eastwood so the dynamat price is somewhat less but still costly.

While your on the 3rd. site check out the babe for the day, it'll be worth the trip. At the bottom it says the shipping wt. is 110 lbs.

Posted by: Rod Sep 3 2008, 05:26 PM

HI Guys, I'm over in the UK and am just about to embark on a complete interior refit on my 914. I have bought a bulk pack of Dynamat extreme which is a foil backed sticky matt, then two rolls of Motormat, which goes on top. these two together combine to cut out a hell of a lot of road noise. I've ordered a carpet set from appearance and performance, so hopefully the interior will be smart when done. I'll do a thread over here for you if you like, so you can see what I'm up too.

Here's my new car -



And this is why I need to soundproof the interior

Posted by: turnaround89 Sep 3 2008, 06:29 PM

Im the one that put the dynamat in my vw. it has a roll cage bc it is a baja bug, so if i flip the thing off road i don't kill myself. the reason there is dynamat in the car is because i also use the car as a daily driver to college and work, so its nice to be able to listen to music and hold a conversation without yelling inside the car(same reason i am putting the sound deadener in my 914). the roll cage didn't add that much weight, the car doesn't need to be fast, thats why i bought a 914. Fun off road car, fantastic on road car. Best of both worlds!!

Posted by: carr914 Sep 3 2008, 07:17 PM

Rod, Your car is beautiful, but I'm partial as I have owned two Olympic Blue 914s

FYI: I talked to Rick at Raamaudio and they had lost my order. He was very nice on the phone, gave me a few tips on install which I will try and let everyone know about as I use the product.

T.C.

Posted by: Heeltoe914 Sep 3 2008, 07:36 PM

[quote name='turnaround89' date='Sep 3 2008, 05:29 PM' post='1074797']
the car doesn't need to be fast, thats why i bought a 914.



I take offense to that statement? As soon as I get all four cylinders running and my car off jack stands I am going to race you. move over.

Posted by: turnaround89 Sep 3 2008, 08:24 PM

Whoops, i should have added more to the sentence. The VW doesn't need to be fast(roll cage, dynamat, 60HP engine, big tires), thats why i bought i 914 because it is a quick/agile car. sorry!!

I am right where you are Heeltoe914, i drove my car for a week and it is now on jackstands. Im in the phase of replacing rusty floorpans and repainting, but it will soon be back on the road again. In the week that i was able to drive the car it beat the crap out of all my friends little ricer POS's, i haul around corners while they have to slow down. Its great, my 36 year old car sounds better and handles better and LOOKS way better than cars that are 3 years old(hon-duh). Gotta love German engineers.

X2, I love that color!!

Posted by: carr914 Sep 10 2008, 06:51 PM

I got my RaaMmat today, so will be starting to install tomorrow. I'll post some pictures.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 10 2008, 09:29 PM

Another thing about RaaMmat or the owner. Great customer service. Rick the owner has sent me 2 emails concerning how to properly install the product.

Also there was a small mistake on my order; I got 2 cans of adhesive instead of 3. I emailed Rick the owner, got an email right back apologizing and gave me a bigger than deserved credit for his mistake.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 11 2008, 08:23 AM

Here is a picture of what I ordered. I start as soon as I get my coffee fix.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 11 2008, 02:35 PM

First, you only need a few tools; a utility knife, a small sqeezge, and I used a wallpaper roller. You need gloves, as this stuff will stick. I put a pair of latex gloves on then a set of leather gardening gloves over them. If you just use latex, the adhesive will rip them off your hands.

Second, take out your interior.

Third, make sure your surface is clean. I KaBOOM'd it. Then I started laying the RaaMMat. Pretty easy. You get used to how long of pieces to use. I laid down the mat, pressed it down with my hands, then used my sqeezge, then the wallpaper roller.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 11 2008, 02:42 PM

Next if your going to add another layer of RaaMmat (heck they give you alot of the stuff) (I am as the engine is right behind me and I'm going to be running headers into Mega-Phones and I still want to hear the stereo.) you cut strips of the Ensolite and glue them to your 1st layer of Mat. The MAT will stick to itself, but does not like to stick to the Ensolite, that's why you use strips.

Then put your second layer of RaaMmat.

T.C.

I'm on a beer break , next update in an hour or so.

Posted by: Root_Werks Sep 11 2008, 03:57 PM

Sweet! Let us know if it helps in the noise department. I'd love to know. Another tip somone told me works great is to get a thicker, safety glass rear window. Helps increase the "R" value of the glass cutting even more noise.

Posted by: turnaround89 Sep 12 2008, 08:21 AM

I don't really understand what the Ensolite is used for. Wouldn't you want the RaaMmat to stick more to itself instead of creating a pocket where it won't stick? could you explain why you used the ensolite because i want to put some edead in my car and just want to know if the ensolite helps kill more sound? thanks

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 12 2008, 08:28 AM

Ensolite is just used to seal the doors.
You don't put it under the Raamat, as far as I can tell.

The spray can is how you glue the Ensolite to the doors. It acts as a sound deadening moisture barrier.

Zach

Posted by: carr914 Sep 12 2008, 08:51 AM

I got the info about the strips of Ensolite from the owner of RaaMaudio Rick. Basically the Ensolite sandwich gives a different sound deadening effect.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 12 2008, 09:12 AM

I didn't get a pocket where it didn't stick. Rick explained to me that if I were to put a full sheet of Ensolite in the sandwich there could pockets. I sprayed adhesive over the strips and then put another layer of RaaMmat.

The way I see it, the RaaMmat keeps sounds from coming into the cabin and the Ensolite stops reverberation inside. If you look at a professional recording studio, the walls will be constructed with a ton of insulation and then will have foam walls.

Here is my Ensolite final layer. I'm letting the adhesive dry before I trim it.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 12 2008, 09:18 AM

I'll be doing the doors next. While I'm out in the garage, I'm switching exhaust systems, put different air cleaners on. It's like 95 degrees out, so I can only take the heat in the garage so long before I take a break. And for someone that needs a knee replaced, crawling in and out of the car is tough.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 13 2008, 05:37 PM

Ensolite is now trimmed then I put a layer of Perlon to look like a GT. The Velcro will be used to hold the the center section of the backpad.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 13 2008, 05:39 PM

The interior back in. I also put on headers and Mega-phones, but even with the gnarly exhaust I can hear the stereo.

T.C.

Posted by: URY914 Sep 13 2008, 09:35 PM

T.C. came over to my hose today. It looks real good.

The car is loud as shit.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 14 2008, 11:05 AM

With the center section of the backpad installed.

I'll be doing the doors soon.

I'm going out for a ride before football starts.

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 23 2008, 12:15 PM

Now for the doors.

Remove your door panels

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 23 2008, 12:21 PM

Now cut some strips of the RaaMat. You will get used to how big of strips you can use.

REMEMBER, put your gloves on - this stuff is stickier than elephant snot

Put the strips in and overlap as you go



Then I put a few strips on the inner panel. You have to be careful not to put the RaaMat over the door release rods.

Then I cut a piece of Ensolite and glued in place

Posted by: carr914 Sep 23 2008, 12:24 PM

Clean up your door panel (it's easier to do while off) and reinstall



You will notice the weight you added to the door

And it will now close with a thud instead of a ping

Repeat with the passenger door. Each door took me less than a 1/2 hour

T.C.

Posted by: carr914 Sep 23 2008, 02:09 PM

Here is the passenger door panel put back on.



And how much RaaMat I have left. I would bet I have enough to do another 914 if I don't double-up the back wall.

T.C.

Posted by: tronporsche Sep 23 2008, 02:48 PM

can yoiu show us the rest of your stereo system that makes those amps necassary ?

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 23 2008, 02:54 PM

Did you do your floors as well?
That is about how much RaaMat I have left now, and I did not do my doors, but I did do my floors.

Zach

Posted by: carr914 Sep 23 2008, 03:04 PM

Zach I did not do the floors, But I double layered the back wall in this car. I'm undecided on the floors. What is your opinion on the floors?

T.C.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 24 2008, 09:08 AM

Ive been told that the cabin floors ring like a bell while you are driving down the road if nothing is on them. I put 1 layer down.

I also just put l layer on the firewall, and am going to try that before I add more. I'm not tempting fate with stingers though.

On review, I do have more material left over then you do. I need to hit mine with a roller.

Zach

Posted by: cobra94563 Sep 24 2008, 10:29 AM

how does it sound , relative to the OEM rubber mat?

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 24 2008, 11:11 AM

No clue, yet. Should be far superior, though, due to the foil.

Zach

Posted by: Rav914 Sep 1 2009, 06:55 PM

It's been a year, any updates?

I too have ordered RAAMat. I looked at Dynamat initially, but was immediately turned off by the website. Every square inch is covered with pictures and endorsements by this guy Foose. Then I saw the prices. Come on....really?

So I came here and got the real scoop.

I really didn't want to pad the checking account of this guy.





Attached image(s)

Posted by: nbscooters Sep 1 2009, 07:12 PM

I have been wanting to add one of these fancy sound deadener mats but, I too have been puzzled on which one is both cost effective and efficient.

I have heard good things about Second Skin but I haven't heard anyone mention anything about which one is the best for a 914 application.

Posted by: Mark Henry Sep 1 2009, 08:01 PM

I went with B-Quite Extreme, cheap and did the job....well sort of.... went from 130db to 110db in my way too fuching loud hippy bus.
Then I figured out my amp was stuck on like 11 man....

Best for me it was in Canada, no border hassles.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/100-sq-ft-EXTREME-deadener-w-Dynamat- roller_W0QQitemZ360183536356QQihZ023QQcategoryZ67760QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmd
ZViewItem#ht_1732wt_1165

Posted by: dflesburg Sep 1 2009, 08:55 PM

I have dynamat in my car

Erik has fat mat in his car

standard bulk pack does it all

his car is quieter than mine.

also used hoodliner on firewall inside engine bay.

cant see a diff except price.

Posted by: Gint Sep 7 2009, 09:04 AM

Chip Foose is extremely talented and deserves to make all the money he can. I don't fault him for that. And the Dynamat site isn't that bad. I saw a couple of Foose endorsements that's all. But I don't need to spend all the money either.

Zach is ytour car on the road yet?

Posted by: 9146986 Sep 7 2009, 09:53 AM

I have some B-Quiet "Brown Bread" in stock. I'll double check price and post back. It is foil faced.

Posted by: kconway Sep 7 2009, 12:31 PM

I don't think I read in this thread the total amount of material needed. I'm thinking of doing the interior firewall, floors and doors. Probably would want to double up the firewall as I removed the exterior FW pad.

Kev

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 7 2009, 04:43 PM

My car has seen blacktop, but only just. ~ 10 miles, give or take. No time. Just got home from a MUCH needed weekend getaway. I am going to do some tuning tomorrow when after I put little guy to bed.

I can't tell yet how good the single layer of RAAmat I used is. My rides so far have been mostly "it works it works it works" and not "can I talk to the passenger?"

Zach

Posted by: kconway Sep 17 2009, 09:48 AM

Zach/T.C.
Did you guys leave the firewall pad on and apply the mat over the interior rubber mat?

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 17 2009, 09:50 AM

It needs to go on the metal to work properly.

otherwise, the sound waves may vibrate the metal against the rubber pad, making more noise.

Zach

Posted by: carr914 Sep 17 2009, 10:00 AM

I left the rubber pad. I don't have that car anymore, but it had a pretty good stereo and open exhaust. No problems.

T.C.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 26 2009, 06:38 PM

So, after driving the car around a bit, I have decided that it is still a bit loud in the cabin. When the weather turns cold and the car goes back on those evil jack stands to keep my tires from flat spotting, I intend to put another layer of RaaMat in the cabin.

I never put any in the doors, so some will go there. Another layer will go on the fire wall, and maybe a layer on the engine side as well. I don't think I am going to put another layer on the floor.

Right now, for a longer trip I'd want ear plugs. I hate putting weight back into the car, but I also want to arrive at my destination w/o a headache due to noise.

Zach

Posted by: Daiberl Sep 27 2009, 12:57 PM

Has someone ever tried this mat from Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/50-sqft-R-BLOX-Sound-Deadener-Dynamat-Sample_W0QQitemZ280402117482QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414944c36a&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14? I plan to put some in into my Bumblebee and I think about buying it, any experience?

- Juergen

Posted by: kconway Oct 5 2009, 09:18 PM

I went with the Raamat and was able to do two layers on the firewall and a single layer on the floors and the doors with one roll. Just enough.

I also added the stips of Ensolite on the firewall and it made a huge difference with it on with the "knock" test.