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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Heater Controls and Fresh Air box assembly

Posted by: rdauenhauer Aug 11 2008, 11:04 PM

Well its been quite a long time since I took this thing apart and while I can figure out how it goes back Im hopefull someone will have BTDT and have some advice on the correct procedure.
Im talking about putting all the Heating venilation, defrost controls and such back on the car! sad.gif

Anyone?

for exanple when do you attach the controlling cables to the flappers / fan box, before or after thier installation ? confused24.gif
blink.gif

Posted by: Bleyseng Aug 12 2008, 01:09 AM

Thanks for dropping off the beer bottles Rich!

I can't answer your question.... bootyshake.gif

Posted by: SGB Aug 12 2008, 07:15 AM

this is WAY back, but I remember I had it all attached to the control panel but disconnected from the flappers up front. I THINK.

Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 12 2008, 08:23 AM

It's been way too long, but I remember I had a hell of a time getting the center section under the cowl. maybe because I had everthing connected? confused24.gif I added a piece of window screen under the cowl to keep out leaves and junk.

Posted by: r_towle Aug 12 2008, 09:04 AM

Cables get connected prior to install...otherwise you are not going to be happy.

Its a hard item to get into place...put the bottom in first, then lean the top into place.

Rich

Posted by: PanelBilly Aug 12 2008, 10:35 AM

When I took my car apart, I did a photo essay of the procedure. That way when I put it togeather again, I could just refer to the pictures. I took so many snap shoots. Too bad I put them on the family computer. Then I got divorced! I've asked many times, but the photos seem to have been deleted.

I plan that the re-assembly will be slow and I'll need to back track many times. I'm looking to this community to help me find my way too.

Posted by: Steve Snyder Aug 12 2008, 11:17 AM

I just went through this a few months ago. It was not a pleasant experience. Here is the order of operation that worked best...

1. Attach cable to bottom of blower. Plug in wiring harness to rear of blower.
2. If you have an early model, consider adding some mesh to the intake as mentioned above in this thread. If you have a later model, make sure the plastic grille is in place. Install blower & housing. It is a tight fit, so be careful.

IPB Image
IPB Image

3. The left valve has four cables connected to it, two in front and two in back. The top cable on the front goes through the funny-looking cable guide grommet to the control unit in the dashboard. The bottom cable in the front goes to the rear of the right valve. The top (I think - check this, as I may be remembering incorrectly and can't tell from the pics) cable on the back goes through the funny-looking cable guide grommet to the control unit in the dashboard. The bottom cable in the back goes to the front of the right valve. Attach the two rear cables to the left valve/defrost duct (remove the spring clip from the forward-facing side prior to install, but leave the other in place -- this allows a bit of flexibility, and you do not want to break the tabs) and install.

I found that Installation works best by fitting the defrost end first, then sliding the bottom of the valve into place in its hole with the assistance of some grease. I was not able to fit the valve first as suggested above (your results may vary, see which works best for you). In either case, this is a very tight fit. If you are not extremely patient, you will snap off the tabs that hold the defrost duct to the valve (via spring clips). I broke a set during installation, and it sucked (even with a parts car or four, it takes a bit of time and effort to get to and carefully remove a replacement... think about it headbang.gif ). Note that the securing hardware is in the form of metal tabs for the duct with bolts that also attach the plastic air deflectors in the interior.

IPB Image
IPB Image

4. Attach the remaining cable to the right valve/defrost duct assembly and install in the same manner as the left side.

IPB Image

5. Run and attach the remaining cable ends as described in step 3.

IPB Image

6. Install the little plastic elbow ducts in the corners shown in the pics above. NOTE: These ducts go to the vents in the lower dash on post-1971 cars. If you have a 1970-71 model, I'd expect you won't have these (and some other things might look a bit different).
7. Install the hoses. (Note that the long, large hoses that run from the valves to the longitudinal heater pipes (behind the speaker grilles) are not yet installed in the picture above... I forgot to take a "completed" picture... D'oh!)
8. Attach the three cable ends to the appropriate slides on your interior vent controller.
9. Hope it works. biggrin.gif

Good luck!

Posted by: watsonrx13 Aug 12 2008, 11:55 AM

Steve, excellent write up.... aktion035.gif

Admin, this post needs to go directly to the classics..... bye1.gif

Also, could someone retitle this?

-- Rob

Posted by: McMark Aug 12 2008, 12:36 PM

agree.gif It's on my list to put in the Classics once it's fallen off the first page...

Posted by: gopack Aug 12 2008, 12:41 PM

i cant see the attached images. Is it just me?

Posted by: rdauenhauer Aug 13 2008, 11:09 AM

Excellent aktion035.gif
Ill try to snap a few to fill in the procedure beer.gif

Posted by: jim_hoyland Aug 13 2008, 02:42 PM

The Haynes Manual has a decent diagram of where the cables go.

Posted by: geniusanthony Nov 22 2010, 01:12 AM

Is this in classics yet?

Posted by: geniusanthony Nov 22 2010, 01:13 AM

Is this in classics yet? If no, lets complete the procedure.

Posted by: jt914-6 Nov 22 2010, 06:34 AM

Loosen up the two cowl support brackets and remove the bolts to let the cowl flex a little when installing the fresh air blower assm. It makes it easier to install...

Posted by: championgt1 Nov 22 2010, 10:26 AM

QUOTE(geniusanthony @ Nov 21 2010, 11:12 PM) *

Is this in classics yet?


Already there.

Posted by: mcbrems Mar 18 2011, 01:03 PM

Much gratitude. I used this tutorial extensively during a complete reinstall of my blower and flappers. I do have some additions and a clarification, though.

The shortest control cable connects the middle dash panel slider to the driver flapper rear top link.
The medium length dash control cable connects the top dash panel slider to the fresh air blower flaps.

My clarification is regarding the longest control cable, which connects the red bottom dash lever to the driver side flapper front linkage, which channels hot air either to the floor, or to the defroster/dash vent.

With the red slider all the way to the right for maximum defrost, the driver flapper valve should be channeling all hot air from the up-tube to the defroster nozzle. The only configuration that delivers that result is when the control cable is connected to the driver flapper box front bottom link. idea.gif This is the one instance that differs from the above tutorial. Connecting the cross-link cable from the driver front top link to the passenger flapper box rear linkage will then make sure the same action is copied on the passenger side.

Here's a link to my blower/flapper reinstall:
http://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/

Cheers,
MarkB

Posted by: Alphaogre Mar 27 2014, 03:20 PM

Awesome thanks! Not looking forward to installing these all back in but once this is done, that that pretty much finishes it up!

Posted by: siverson Oct 26 2014, 10:44 PM

FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!

(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed)

-Steve

Posted by: BeatNavy Oct 27 2014, 05:21 AM

QUOTE(siverson @ Oct 27 2014, 12:44 AM) *

FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!

(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed)

-Steve

lol-2.gif Yeah, I've never felt like this about anything I've attempted on my 'teener.

Not laughing at you, more in sympathy, but this gave me a good laugh this morning. Good luck, hope you get it done.

Posted by: cary Oct 27 2014, 08:06 AM

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 27 2014, 04:21 AM) *

QUOTE(siverson @ Oct 27 2014, 12:44 AM) *

FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!

(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed)

-Steve

lol-2.gif Yeah, I've never felt like this about anything I've attempted on my 'teener.

Not laughing at you, more in sympathy, but this gave me a good laugh this morning. Good luck, hope you get it done.


I was going to write something last night too. What a PIA.

Posted by: jack20 Apr 10 2015, 05:57 PM

Took me nearly 2 hours to get one bolt in and then the nut fell into the box on the other...had to start over. An hour and a half later ,nothing.
Why is this thing so difficult to install? Any tricks??

Posted by: gereed75 Apr 10 2015, 09:50 PM

QUOTE(jack20 @ Apr 10 2015, 07:57 PM) *

Took me nearly 2 hours to get one bolt in and then the nut fell into the box on the other...had to start over. An hour and a half later ,nothing.
Why is this thing so difficult to install? Any tricks??


Not sure this has been mentioned.... I found it necessary to loosen all of the wiper drive arm holding hardware so that the wiper arms could "float" in the wiper drive post holes. This little bit of movement of the wiper assembly really helped getting the blower box in.

Posted by: jack20 Apr 11 2015, 12:13 AM

Thanks! I'll try anything...

Posted by: 914_teener Apr 11 2015, 01:14 PM

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 27 2014, 04:21 AM) *

QUOTE(siverson @ Oct 27 2014, 12:44 AM) *

FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!

(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed)

-Steve

lol-2.gif Yeah, I've never felt like this about anything I've attempted on my 'teener.

Not laughing at you, more in sympathy, but this gave me a good laugh this morning. Good luck, hope you get it done.




I have the friggin horror story of all that I have had with my car with that friggen thing.

After 6 six years of sitting on a replacement I finally got around to it. After two weekends of cleaning, gas tank rehab and multiple cuts from the cables ect. got it together.

Worked one time and then the little clip that holds the fan lever cable broke......


Still pissed off about it. Piss on it...I'll open the window. headbang.gif

Posted by: 914_teener Apr 11 2015, 01:16 PM

Tricks:


Lots of patience.

Posted by: falcor75 Apr 11 2015, 01:53 PM

QUOTE(914_teener @ Apr 11 2015, 09:16 PM) *

Tricks:


Lots of patience.



I ran out of patience....couldnt get the box to slide in without the new top seal sliding out of its position due to it being a hair or two too large. Had to slide in the passenger end first and then force the drivers side in then jam the whole assembly upwards with a crowbar while a friend entered the screws from the side.....

f#ciking pita..... headbang.gif

Posted by: rdauenhauer Apr 11 2015, 03:02 PM

One trick I learned after doing this a *FEW* times was to get a good set of snap ring pliers and remove the spring clips securing the lower to upper section of the box.
Carefull...! After 30+ years that plastic/Bakelite is VERY fragile.
Once separated it makes it a bit easier to remove install and maneuver the parts around.

Posted by: arkitect Apr 5 2016, 11:28 PM

I added some notes to a couple of picts for additional info.

Dave

Attached File  Heater___Ventilation_control.pdf ( 33.13k ) Number of downloads: 555


Attached File  Heater___Ventilation_control_2.pdf ( 84.24k ) Number of downloads: 541

Posted by: porschetub Apr 6 2016, 01:52 AM

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 28 2014, 12:21 AM) *

QUOTE(siverson @ Oct 27 2014, 12:44 AM) *

FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!

(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed)

-Steve

lol-2.gif Yeah, I've never felt like this about anything I've attempted on my 'teener.

Not laughing at you, more in sympathy, but this gave me a good laugh this morning. Good luck, hope you get it done.


agree.gif its a crap job,to be honest mine isn't completely back together,tryed to screw the control levers back on to the back dash and realized I didn't have 3 hands confused24.gif
Wee tip,had one cable binding up on one lever ...really firm when fully open,removed cable and found it tight when not attached to both ends.
Had a VW golf bonnent release cable lying around so cut that to length and fitted it .....smooth as,these cables have nylon liners and seem to work better than the stock ones.
beer.gif

Posted by: arkitect Apr 6 2016, 06:12 AM

I need to find two cables to complete my project. I had one with the end broke off, tried to rebend the s curve end on the control side back in...the wire is so brittle, it just breaks off. headbang.gif

Dave

Posted by: Darren C Apr 6 2016, 06:26 AM

QUOTE(falcor75 @ Apr 11 2015, 07:53 PM) *

QUOTE(914_teener @ Apr 11 2015, 09:16 PM) *

Tricks:


Lots of patience.



I ran out of patience....couldnt get the box to slide in without the new top seal sliding out of its position due to it being a hair or two too large. Had to slide in the passenger end first and then force the drivers side in then jam the whole assembly upwards with a crowbar while a friend entered the screws from the side.....

f#ciking pita..... headbang.gif


Yep, had the same issue. Bought a new seal and grille for the top from 914rubber, and had a real fight getting it in. I found it easier to glue the seal onto the grille with a little superglue then use liquid soap on the sides and top to get it to slide in. Otherwise it all jams up and everything falls out of place.
The new seals need compressing to get the bolts in from each side so in the end I had to use a softwood lever under the box to force it upwards enough to get the two bolts in each side (risking breaking the plastic box).
Not an easy job working alone.
Maybe Mark from 914rubber can chip in with some advice? It's almost as if the new top seals need to be a softer rubber compound or slightly more like a foam rubber to still expand and seal, but make it much easier to compress????

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 6 2016, 04:40 PM

QUOTE(arkitect @ Apr 6 2016, 05:12 AM) *

I need to find two cables to complete my project. I had one with the end broke off, tried to rebend the s curve end on the control side back in...the wire is so brittle, it just breaks off. headbang.gif

Dave

I think I have a set left over from my conversion. You talking about those 3 cables about 18" long?

Posted by: bandjoey Apr 7 2016, 07:19 AM

One week a few years ago I restored my box. It took a week to reinstall it. So I'm deathly afraid of even thinking about touching it again. Some of you talented people should come up with a modern metal box. You'll be rich smash.gif

Posted by: SA-914 Apr 7 2016, 07:49 AM

QUOTE(Darren C @ Apr 6 2016, 07:26 AM) *

QUOTE(falcor75 @ Apr 11 2015, 07:53 PM) *

QUOTE(914_teener @ Apr 11 2015, 09:16 PM) *

Tricks:


Lots of patience.



I ran out of patience....couldnt get the box to slide in without the new top seal sliding out of its position due to it being a hair or two too large. Had to slide in the passenger end first and then force the drivers side in then jam the whole assembly upwards with a crowbar while a friend entered the screws from the side.....

f#ciking pita..... headbang.gif


Yep, had the same issue. Bought a new seal and grille for the top from 914rubber, and had a real fight getting it in. I found it easier to glue the seal onto the grille with a little superglue then use liquid soap on the sides and top to get it to slide in. Otherwise it all jams up and everything falls out of place.
The new seals need compressing to get the bolts in from each side so in the end I had to use a softwood lever under the box to force it upwards enough to get the two bolts in each side (risking breaking the plastic box).
Not an easy job working alone.
Maybe Mark from 914rubber can chip in with some advice? It's almost as if the new top seals need to be a softer rubber compound or slightly more like a foam rubber to still expand and seal, but make it much easier to compress????


New grill also was to big for my box, so I cut some off all four sides. I too had problems compressing the new seal. One bolts goes in easy. The second needed a board under the box to compress the gasket enough to get the second bolt on.

Posted by: NS914 Apr 7 2016, 10:10 AM

Thanks for bringing this post back...I have saved it as I will into this in two weeks if I get all of my wiring complete. Grant

Posted by: rgolia Apr 7 2016, 11:24 AM

What needs to be added to this procedure is that you should have two air boxes on hand....one to install and the other to take your aggression out on. Since I started with only one, I had to get anther after the uncontrollable urge to destroy the thing came over me. smash.gif headbang.gif

Posted by: 3d914 Apr 7 2016, 12:57 PM

QUOTE(rgolia @ Apr 7 2016, 10:24 AM) *

What needs to be added to this procedure is that you should have two air boxes on hand....one to install and the other to take your aggression out on. Since I started with only one, I had to get anther after the uncontrollable urge to destroy the thing came over me. smash.gif headbang.gif


lol-2.gif lol-2.gif av-943.gif av-943.gif

Posted by: porschetub Apr 7 2016, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(Darren C @ Apr 7 2016, 01:26 AM) *

QUOTE(falcor75 @ Apr 11 2015, 07:53 PM) *

QUOTE(914_teener @ Apr 11 2015, 09:16 PM) *

Tricks:


Lots of patience.



I ran out of patience....couldnt get the box to slide in without the new top seal sliding out of its position due to it being a hair or two too large. Had to slide in the passenger end first and then force the drivers side in then jam the whole assembly upwards with a crowbar while a friend entered the screws from the side.....

f#ciking pita..... headbang.gif


Yep, had the same issue. Bought a new seal and grille for the top from 914rubber, and had a real fight getting it in. I found it easier to glue the seal onto the grille with a little superglue then use liquid soap on the sides and top to get it to slide in. Otherwise it all jams up and everything falls out of place.
The new seals need compressing to get the bolts in from each side so in the end I had to use a softwood lever under the box to force it upwards enough to get the two bolts in each side (risking breaking the plastic box).
Not an easy job working alone.
Maybe Mark from 914rubber can chip in with some advice? It's almost as if the new top seals need to be a softer rubber compound or slightly more like a foam rubber to still expand and seal, but make it much easier to compress????


Did mine the same way,my cowl seal was original and in great condition I hate to think what it would be like compressing a new one confused24.gif

Posted by: porschetub Apr 7 2016, 01:28 PM

QUOTE(arkitect @ Apr 7 2016, 01:12 AM) *

I need to find two cables to complete my project. I had one with the end broke off, tried to rebend the s curve end on the control side back in...the wire is so brittle, it just breaks off. headbang.gif

Dave


Dave the other good thing about the Golf hood release cable is the wire is softer and bends easily to fit the levers,its also more flexible and this helps when refitting.

Posted by: arkitect Apr 17 2016, 10:54 PM

I found a solution to my cable problem. Replaced the brittle old wire with some new galvanized 16ga wire. Was able to bend the s shape bend at the control. biggrin.gif

Dave

Posted by: draganc Dec 30 2016, 05:55 PM

Achtung achtung, here comes ze rant: you mofo-ker, who ever designed this f-ing blower/air box, yes I'm talk about you Klaus-Dieter or Hans or Helmut, I hope you never ever get one "...of those tasty Sauerkraut sandwiches..." again!!!!

What da funk is wrong with people design sheit likes this? This must be the worse German engineering EVER!

Posted by: morsmanlaw Mar 17 2017, 08:05 AM

QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Nov 22 2010, 07:34 AM) *

Loosen up the two cowl support brackets and remove the bolts to let the cowl flex a little when installing the fresh air blower assm. It makes it easier to install...


Not sure if you will get this reply, but your post from over 6 years ago was of great help in my being able to get the box back in.

Posted by: Olympic 1.7 Mar 17 2017, 06:31 PM

I just did this job today. Been dreading it for a while now.

it would have helped if I had seen this thread before I started, but I did some of the same tricks that worked for others.

first the plastic grill was a little too big and was holding the seal out too far. so I sanded it on all four sides until the rubber seal fit nicely.

I thought about loosening the wiper assembly but got it in without having to do that.

Had it in and out a couple three times because the seal kept getting pushed out of place. ended up slathering liquid hand soap on the seal to help it slide in past the wiper bar and cowl.

Ended up ovaling the mounting holes a little with a file (sorry Darren, But I gave up fighting it) and using a block of wood and a pry bar to get the second bolt started. All the while holding my breath hoping that I wouldn't bust the housing.....

Then came trying to connect the cable underneath the blower ... another adventure.

But it was successful. and then I walked away from it.... Glad that's done.

Posted by: Philip W. Aug 28 2017, 07:47 AM

QUOTE(draganc @ Dec 30 2016, 07:55 PM) *

Achtung achtung, here comes ze rant: you mofo-ker, who ever designed this f-ing blower/air box, yes I'm talk about you Klaus-Dieter or Hans or Helmut, I hope you never ever get one "...of those tasty Sauerkraut sandwiches..." again!!!!

What da funk is wrong with people design sheit likes this? This must be the worse German engineering EVER!

agree.gif barf.gif

I have been working on my connections on the slider mechanism and the indicator lights, but still only one speed- so I will pull the fan and try a different on I have- this thread should help get it all back together I hope!

Posted by: GregAmy Dec 5 2017, 09:09 AM

I'm laughing here, always wondered how much bier some of these engineers were having while designing this stuff...

But why I'm here...I remember as I was cruising around I remember seeing someone selling a kit of plates that over the holes in the under-dash when you remove the fresh air blower. I'm going to do this on the race car, since I'm running open-top anyway...I can't for the LIFE of me find those again. Coulda been ebay, maybe amazon, maybe one of our standard vendors? Just can't find it again.

Halp?

Posted by: Blue6 Dec 5 2017, 10:05 AM

I bought the Maddog set. Fit great. He's a vendor here. Website is Maddogs motor sports. Under 914 accessories.

Posted by: GregAmy Dec 5 2017, 10:28 AM

That's the one! Can't even imagine where I saw that...thanks!

Posted by: JFG Feb 21 2018, 02:59 PM

I've just completed this pig of a job.

I used the link below to identify which cable went where as I couldn't get a clear picture from the link on page 1

http://hartpenn.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/

Those little 7mm clamping bolts are like jelly!

Posted by: barefoot Oct 22 2018, 06:46 PM

QUOTE(mcbrems @ Mar 18 2011, 03:03 PM) *

Much gratitude. I used this tutorial extensively during a complete reinstall of my blower and flappers. I do have some additions and a clarification, though.

The shortest control cable connects the middle dash panel slider to the driver flapper rear top link.
The medium length dash control cable connects the top dash panel slider to the fresh air blower flaps.

My clarification is regarding the longest control cable, which connects the red bottom dash lever to the driver side flapper front linkage, which channels hot air either to the floor, or to the defroster/dash vent.

With the red slider all the way to the right for maximum defrost, the driver flapper valve should be channeling all hot air from the up-tube to the defroster nozzle. The only configuration that delivers that result is when the control cable is connected to the driver flapper box front bottom link. idea.gif This is the one instance that differs from the above tutorial. Connecting the cross-link cable from the driver front top link to the passenger flapper box rear linkage will then make sure the same action is copied on the passenger side.

I just completed a full mock-up on the bench and confirm the comments just above:
The cable commenting from the drivers side TOP front connection goes to the passenger side rear connection, & the bottom control cable from the red dash slider goes to the Bottom front drivers side flapper box.
Barefoot

Here's a link to my blower/flapper reinstall:
http://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/

Cheers,
MarkB

Posted by: barefoot Oct 22 2018, 06:58 PM

QUOTE(arkitect @ Apr 6 2016, 01:28 AM) *

I added some notes to a couple of picts for additional info.

Dave

Attached File  Heater___Ventilation_control_2.pdf ( 84.24k ) Number of downloads: 541



One correction:
The TOP of front left (drivers side) cable goes to the rear of the right (passengers side) box.
You're correct that bottom control (RED) from the dash slider goes to the bottom front of the left (drivers side)
Just mocked up the whole system on the bench to figure how to do the routing
Barefoot

Posted by: barefoot Oct 22 2018, 07:08 PM

delete

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