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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ front seal removal
Posted by: nycchef Sep 5 2008, 01:58 PM
how do you remove the fan hub to get to the front seal? the 914 manual says i need a special tool. i don,t have one, i don,t even know what kid of tool it is or why itis special. any alternatives? 
Posted by: type47 Sep 5 2008, 03:43 PM
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
Posted by: nycchef Sep 5 2008, 04:28 PM
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
Posted by: turboman808 Sep 5 2008, 04:30 PM
special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
Posted by: Phoenix 914-6GT Sep 5 2008, 04:33 PM
special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
That's dangerous.
Posted by: nycchef Sep 5 2008, 04:36 PM
special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
That's dangerous.that's nate he is the poster child for dangerous.
Posted by: r_towle Sep 5 2008, 05:05 PM
my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
Yes, exactly zactly breath...
Rich
Posted by: nycchef Sep 5 2008, 05:13 PM
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
[/quote]
Yes, exactly zactly breath...
Rich
[/quote]
so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 5 2008, 07:18 PM
Or, you could go to your FLAPS and get a 3 arm gear puller for like 20 bucks and safely pull it that way.
Zach
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
looks like this, but three arms. I got mine at Autozone.
2 arm version might work as well, but 3 arm adjustable works more better.
Zach
Posted by: r_towle Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
Yes, exactly zactly breath...
Rich
so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?
Yes, its a tapered fit that gets held in with the single bolt.
You can heat it to expand it a bit, but I have never needed to do that.
I cant remember the torque specs, but you really dont want to go over that spec...its a threaded hold in the end of the crankshaft.. not cool to futz up.
There is also a key, dont loose it.
Rich
Posted by: r_towle Sep 5 2008, 07:23 PM
the special tool it a flat plate about 3 inches wide with a "U" cut out of the middle. You drop that plate down around the crank and use the bolts to push the hub off.
Rich
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Sep 5 2008, 08:07 PM
Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n
Posted by: nycchef Sep 5 2008, 09:47 PM
Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n
gonna see if autozone has the tool. started to do it the makeshift way usiing some light metal but the bolt started to go through. got scared, gave up. thanks for the info will let you guys know how it pans out tomorrow
rich
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 5 2008, 10:27 PM
make sure you remove the big washer directly behind the bolt before you try pulling it.
Also, get some PB Blaster in a spray bottle and spray it down really good to make the job a little easier. They are under a lot of pressure. The first one I removed literally shot across the room when it finally popped.
Make sure that the bolt is threaded in all the way or it will bend. Put the "point" of the puller on the bolt. If you end up bending the bolt, let me know. McMaster sells them in 5 packs. I have 4 of them left over. :-)
Zach
Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 5 2008, 10:33 PM
Three nice thick fender washers work well. Anything that's decently strong and wide enough to spread out the load is great.
If you have a puller already, you can try that. But washers are cheaper yet than any puller. I think they're also easier in this case, because they'll hold themselves in place with no fussing.
--DD
Posted by: r_towle Sep 5 2008, 10:37 PM
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..
Rich
Posted by: nycchef Sep 6 2008, 10:20 AM
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..
Rich
special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Sep 6 2008, 01:52 PM
two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..
Rich
special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all
Hope you didn't honk up the end of the case that retains the seal. BTW, be sure to replace the o-ring behind the hub. The Cap'n
Posted by: Jeff Bowlsby Sep 6 2008, 02:45 PM
Do it once, do it right. I bet this tool is still available and I further bet a good P-car or VW parts shop has them.
Try http://baumtools.com/
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Posted by: dflesburg Sep 23 2008, 08:35 AM
They dont have any. I called them.
Nobody has them.
Need to find some High Carbon Steel (hard stuff) as the piece I made last night from mild steel bent under the pressure of the bolts.
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