After talking to Brad and Jake, I think I'll be passing on converting my /4 to crankfire and just go with the crankdriven distributor instead.
A brand new billet Mallory unit would be ideal, but for now, a stock 1.8 will have to make due.
I'm running Megasquirt FI, so I don't need the FI trigger points and I thought I read that the 1.8 distributor had a better advance curve(yes, no, maybe???)
To get a little more precision, I thought a new drive gear would be nice.
We have them they are $15. Steve
http://www6.instantestore.net/merchant5605/cat_porsche_914.cfm
The 1.8 distributor offers a better advance curve for most Type IV applications than a 1.7 or 2.0 one, yes.
--DD
The 1.8's all are vacuum advance too right?
what's wrong with crankfire?
I can balance your mass and then balance the accessory later. The nice thing about my machine is that it can load your old specs and I can match your new part on a mandrel just like if I had your assembly!
So when I balance someones stuff , and they grenade a part I can easily match the part.
As for the distributor drive, NEVER USE A NEW BRASS GEAR... I have seen atleast 50 fail by stripping completely away..
As for crankfire- Only one system has worked well for me and thats electromotive... I use them alot. I also make the trigger mount for them.
AAAAAHHHHH!! I just bought and installed a NEW brass gear. It was made in Brazil by aplic. Is it going to melt or what? Also how many what size and where of my "frost" plugs should I replace. I am sorry if this one has been gone over before. I am slow so type slow and post pics please
I bought the gear here in Calgary at a local shop. No good used ones to be found. What's funny is I did this today.
Mueller
Here's the 36 tooth wheel I'm working on. It's the Ford Escort (EDIS) 35-1 wheel pulled off the ford pulley. I then machined a recess into the back side of the pulley and fit a disk of chrome molly, drilled and tapped the disk and wheel and attached the disk to the wheel. The disk is drilled to fit onto the fan hub. I mounted the VR sensor to the inside of the cooling shroud under the oil cooler.
I decided to wait for UMS so I only have change things once.
Dave
Attached image(s)
Sorry to steal the thread. Could Jake or some of the other engine builders chime in on the gear I bought? Am I going to have big probs?
BTW this is where it came from looks like they do cams as well.http://www.aplicresolit.com.br/
Dylan, like I said I haven't seen one yet, but Jake said they're crap so I'd rather be safe than sorry, yank it.
If you can't find a good used one send me a PM and I'll find one for ya bud.
Mark
Thanks, I may have to take you up on that. I will look some more here. I will ask the shop I got it from if they have any "in the field". This shop is reputable I know the owner.
I use 40 year old gears all the time.. I had 5 failures of the new gears and threw the entire stock away- Junk. Way too soft!
Jake / Mark what are you guys using for case sealant? 574 k2 h3? Jake do you remember if the gears you had were from the guys I mentioned? Thanks
Mike,
I assume that with the megasquirt you can map the ignition curve. Why not use one of the jap 4 cyl distributors which has already chopper wheel and hall sensor in it.
Have done the rear bearings, front this morning.
Mueller - for the type IV motor you can use MegaSquirt-n-spark - for which you only need a pulse from the dizzy per firing, and the actual spark distribution.
I will be doing the MS-n-EDIS shortly - Dave's trigger wheel looks great, if you replicate that you could do a nice dizzyless setup. I'd love to see a T4 with that on it.
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