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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ AAR results, need some verification if its good ty

Posted by: tod914 Oct 3 2008, 01:16 PM

Was doing some testing on my AAR to see if it's ok.

When unplugged and cold 13 ohms

AAR Warm 12-14 pounds of vaccume at idle from the cold start end hose
AAR Warm 22 pounds of vac @ 3500 rpm from the cold start end hose

AAR Warm on closed end; when you blow through it, seems closed.
Yet, when I do a vaccume test on it, it will go to 11.25 pounds in about
2 seconds and hold steady. By pulling off the line from the air cleaner end,
and blocking it, it seems to have no effect on idle when it's warm.

Do they all leak a little like this, or should there be zero vaccume comming
through ? If someone could verify with a good know AAR that would be great.

Trying to determine if I need a new one.

Thanks,

Tod

Posted by: toon1 Oct 3 2008, 03:45 PM

the way a AAR fails is if the 12v+ wire breaks inside. It will not activate the piston and cause a lean condition until the engine bay heats up and then it will close.

does operate like it supposed to?

Posted by: blitZ Oct 3 2008, 03:52 PM

The shaft may be seized so the valve won't close. There are no new ones, but you may be able to repair the one you have.

This link may help.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=70865&hl=

Posted by: tod914 Oct 3 2008, 04:05 PM

The cold idle is lower than when warm. So maybe it's sticking a bit do you think? The Haynes was saying 30 ohms disconnected. This one is showing 13 ohms. The 13 is about the same ohm's as an old one i have with a shorted wire. Although I can blow through it when cold, there seems to be a big jump in rpm's when I remove the air/vacumme hose from the cold start valve side when cold. I'm wondering if the air flow is suppose to be some what restrictived, or if the valve is faulty. I did the pblaster and wd40 to it a while ago. Didn't notice any difference in behavior.
Thanks for the rebuild link. I'll keep for eyes peeled for a nos one on ebay or try to find a good used one and A-B that way I suppose.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Oct 3 2008, 05:41 PM

I test the AAR by removing it from the car cold. It will be about 1/3 to 1/2 open at ambient temp. Hook up a couple of wires from the battery to the AAR. It should close in about 1 1/2 minutes.

The valve does not form a perfect seal---you can blow air by it; but that seem to be the way they work.

I give mine PB blaster when I have it out. I also have a vac gauge permanently mounted in the engine compartment to catch vac leaks.

Attached image(s)

Posted by: tod914 Oct 3 2008, 09:49 PM

Thanks, guys. Jim, it takes about 7 minutes to heat up when connecting
directly to the battery.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 4 2008, 12:34 AM

The D-jet AARs have 13 ohms resistance between the input wire and the case. Measured quite a few, and they were pretty much all at 13 ohms.

The L-jet AARs have 30 ohms between the two pins in the electrical plug.

Simple way to test the function of the AAR: There's a hose from the AAR up to the air cleaner. Pull it off the air cleaner. When the engine is cold, quite a bit of air should get sucked into that hose, and the idle should not change. When the engine is warm, it should be difficult to tell if any air at all is getting sucked into the hose.

If it does both correctly, it's fine. If it fails one or the other, it's not fine.

--DD

Posted by: jim_hoyland Oct 4 2008, 07:48 AM

Seven minutes seems long; I have L-Jet and they could be different. My question to you is: Did the valve in the AAR close after 7 minutes ? If you find another AAR, you can do the same test and have a benchmark.

Good Luck..