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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ My Official Project thread

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 06:48 PM

I realized that the thread I had started originally was mostly my introduction to the site, so I ignored it, so here's my build thread. Pics to come.

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 06:51 PM

This is basically the car when I first got it, minus the layers, upon layers......upon layers of paint.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 06:55 PM

Flares and installation

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 06:56 PM

Flares, check!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 06:58 PM

Alumi-lead before bond-O

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2008, 08:03 PM

Ok, as of right now, this is currently my car as is, please, comments welcome!

Today (10.11.08) painted the wall underneath the dash, the dash mount, and the glovebox....

Before.....
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After....
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After that, moved onto the dash-mount...
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While I was at it, I taped off and hit up the Fuel Tank...
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And since I did that, I thought I might as well hit up the wiper assembly...
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While doing that, my front Valiance arrived! Yay eBay!
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And to end on a high note, I found the 5 lugs, and the 6 steering wheel my Dad had stored away....
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Posted by: Gint Oct 11 2008, 08:56 PM

Nice work!

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Posted by: Lou W Oct 11 2008, 09:59 PM

Looking good. smile.gif

Posted by: jmill Oct 11 2008, 11:18 PM

Very nice. What color are you going with? Back to Zambezi?

Posted by: Phoenix 914-6GT Oct 12 2008, 12:59 AM

aktion035.gif Nice work. If you keep this up your car will be very clean and well sorted. piratenanner.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2008, 12:59 AM

Haha, good question, I'm either going Black or a Grey/dark grey OR if I go Signal Orange to match my dad's six, I can get a 6 cyl.

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2008, 04:58 PM

Well, did´nt get much done today, Homework to do and such.

Further cleaned all the old goo off the dash.
Pulled more of the 911 suspension out.
Cleaned off the motor for the wipers.

Tomorrow I´ll be digging out the headlamps and mounts and cleaning and installing them.

Posted by: championgt1 Oct 12 2008, 11:02 PM

Nice work. Make sure to keep us posted.

Posted by: FourBlades Oct 13 2008, 08:14 AM


That can't be a real 914, it doesn't have enough rust on it!!! happy11.gif

Seriously, that is looking good, should be an excellent car when you are done.

John


Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 13 2008, 10:04 AM

Roll the fender lips under now, before you start the finishing process. If your not sure what I'm talking about, check my threads. I took some pictures and posted a thread on this subject a few months ago.

Posted by: jc914 Oct 13 2008, 10:13 AM

Great job looking good. you are lucky not that much rust keep us posted

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 13 2008, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Oct 13 2008, 09:04 AM) *

Roll the fender lips under now, before you start the finishing process. If your not sure what I'm talking about, check my threads. I took some pictures and posted a thread on this subject a few months ago.



Which thread is that?

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 20 2008, 12:11 PM

Didn't end up getting much done this weekend with the car. All I was able to do was spend about an hour cleaning the Wiper motor and cleaning the old glue of the dash mount and such.

Posted by: Root_Werks Oct 20 2008, 02:25 PM

Cool! Steel flares! welder.gif

Posted by: dw914er Oct 20 2008, 02:47 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Oct 11 2008, 11:59 PM) *

Haha, good question, I'm either going Black or a Grey/dark grey OR if I go Signal Orange to match my dad's six, I can get a 6 cyl.


id go with the /6 option smile.gif

good work though.

Posted by: Joe Sharp Oct 20 2008, 03:50 PM

Aaron: while you have the whiper assembly out grease the piviots and shafts with white litho. You don't ever want to take it out again.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 11 2008, 11:23 AM

Finally some updates.....

So this weekend, I was actually able to work on the car, Mid-terms in school and stuff at work have been holding me back, but I was finally able to put in a few un-interrupted hours.

Took the 911 suspension I got and was able to scrape to previous cars crap off the top, and get them ready to throw in a parts washer. More importantly, got one of the sets of headlights that my dad has lying around (I think there's enough for 4 cars, lol) and stripped and fixed those up really nice. Pictures to follow in 2 minutes.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 11 2008, 11:32 AM

Just a few pictures that I took....


The headlights when I found them, they where pretty thrashed and such....
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I ended up having to drill out the heads of the screws because they where just simply TOO rusted to do anything with.....

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A couple of pictures before I completely disassembled everything, and sandblasted....

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Post sandblasted, painted them with hammered rustoleum, looks realyl cool and shiny!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 15 2008, 08:11 PM

So I realized after last week, that my post was rather boring, this week, I decided to throw in some metal, sparks, and fire! sawzall-smiley.gif

This week, I got to fix the trunk, which I, erm, messed up previously. To match the left side, I also welded the right.

Some before pictures....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 15 2008, 08:20 PM

And, as I promised, metal, fire, and sparks!

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Tomorrow, I'll be grinding them down and such, as to make them match. For now, it's Saturday, and we're heading to Downtown San Diego!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 16 2008, 12:54 PM

Well, decided I did'nt like the battery tray, so I thought I'de execute a little "Weight Reduction." sawzall-smiley.gif

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Posted by: JRust Nov 16 2008, 01:12 PM

You are making great progress. Keep it up smile.gif

Posted by: southernmost914 Nov 16 2008, 01:47 PM

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I swear I see a ignition switch on that dash board aktion035.gif

Steve

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 17 2008, 12:41 AM

biggrin.gif would'nt have any idea what you are talking about biggrin.gif

So today, I went back to the trunk and smoothed out all the welds from yesterday and placed Alumi-lead on the seams. Also, used the cut out and traced a new piece for the battery tray.

Tomorrow, I'll be sanding down that Alumi-lead and getting it ready for Bond-o, then I move onto the engine bay, which is pretty well off, all it needs is preping and possibly this weekend I can spray the trunk, undercoating, and engine bay. I think it´s safe to say (except for the tray) the welding is done.

Posted by: Gint Nov 17 2008, 08:40 AM

QUOTE(southernmost914 @ Nov 16 2008, 12:47 PM) *
I swear I see a ignition switch on that dash board aktion035.gif
Steve

And that ignition switch you painted rattle can black is worth a couple hundred bucks...

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 17 2008, 09:28 AM

QUOTE(Gint @ Nov 17 2008, 06:40 AM) *

And that ignition switch you painted rattle can black is worth a couple hundred bucks...



Good thing it's mine and it's staying in the family. Lol, nah, I did'nt paint it, I just got jumpy with the camera and took a few pics before I was completely done assembling it.

Posted by: Root_Werks Nov 17 2008, 10:18 AM

I actually like the battery tray idea. Having it open like that doesn't reduce the strength and you can keep the area below it clean and painted.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 17 2008, 12:36 PM

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Nov 17 2008, 08:18 AM) *

I actually like the battery tray idea. Having it open like that doesn't reduce the strength and you can keep the area below it clean and painted.


I too agree. Meh, I'm not sure, I'll either leave it open as such or close it up. If I do leave it open, I'll be trimming it to right where it meets the suppot around the three sides, which is only about another 1/2 an inch.

Like I said, if anything, it's part of my "weight reduction"! lol sawzall-smiley.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2008, 11:23 AM

Of that ignition switch you guys where speaking of, where you refering top the picture witht the dashboard already mounted? Or the one that is just newly painted? I ask because these are two different supports, one being originally from the car, and the other being from a Six.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2008, 11:28 AM

Yesterday, I did'nt get to do much, as I got to the shop around 4:30, and it gets darker alot earlier now. I did, however, sand and clean up underneath the flares.

Originally, when we installed the flares, this area did'nt look to hot, with all the ground-down welds and such, so I once again wen to the Alumi-lead, applied it, and cleaned it up yesterday, to make it look more "seamless"....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 27 2008, 09:13 PM

Ok, so today, Thanksgiving, actually got to work for a few hours.

Finished completely taking the Powder Coating/dirt/old paint from the suspension (correction from before, the new suspension is from a Six, not a 911). Took of the rotors, and the bearings inside, turned out they where bent out of shape. Sandblasted that plate that mounts behind the rotors, and everything is ready to paint on Saturday or Sunday.

Pictures to come, for now, more Turkey!

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 30 2008, 04:33 PM

Some pictures of the Six suspension. Scraped all the old Powder Coating off, will paint soon. Also took those shrowds, sandblasted them and such.

What do you think for the struts, green or black...... or red?



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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 1 2008, 03:35 PM

Did'nt get much done this weekend, as I had to work, however, coming up, I'll be prepping the Engine area, as well as doing Rubberized undercoating in the trunk.

What do you guys think for the Engine Bay? I'm thinking in the way of undercoating in Black.

Posted by: SGB Dec 1 2008, 09:07 PM

Keep after it!

I too loose motivation when it is dark when I get up, sunrise as I go to work, and dark when I get home. And I just HATE cold. At least I have a garage, but it isn't heated. By the time I work out a little, eat some grub and have a beer, it is too late to get motivated...

oh well. At least I have a job.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 2 2008, 11:50 AM

QUOTE(SGB @ Dec 1 2008, 07:07 PM) *

Keep after it!

I too loose motivation when it is dark when I get up, sunrise as I go to work, and dark when I get home. And I just HATE cold. At least I have a garage, but it isn't heated. By the time I work out a little, eat some grub and have a beer, it is too late to get motivated...

oh well. At least I have a job.


I know exactly what you are saying. During the days when the sun is out longer, I used to work til' Nine, but now, it's too hard!

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 20 2008, 09:05 PM

Ok, finals are over, so now I can transfer, but more importantly, work on my car for the next month before I go back to class!

Today, I was actually able to get some parts completed.

Stripped down the suspension to bare metal using the wire brush, not sure to make it red or black, leaning more to black, what do you think?

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Also, started to work on the engine bay. It looks really good underneath. We had checked it before, but this is the first time I've been able to see the details.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 26 2008, 11:51 AM

Since the site got nocked down, I don't know how many people saw my last updates, but heres more...

There was a pretty good size dent here that I knocked out....
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No more rattle-can-blue-fender!
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Prepped the trunk and removed all the sealant, gonna put in undercoating and such here.
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Fount a few rust spots....
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The previous owner must have had stock in Bond-O, because this dent was filled heavily with it
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Posted by: PanelBilly Dec 26 2008, 12:07 PM

You have so much work ahead of you. Have you thought about just replacing the trunk rather than repairing all the rust holes?

I'd be afraid of the rust growing in the places you can't get to

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 26 2008, 03:32 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Dec 26 2008, 10:07 AM) *

You have so much work ahead of you. Have you thought about just replacing the trunk rather than repairing all the rust holes?

I'd be afraid of the rust growing in the places you can't get to



Originally, I had thought about it, but others have told me that I'm lucky to have such a rust free car.

When I actually do find rust, it is so isolated, it is rarely a problem.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 5 2009, 11:00 AM

Update after a months of nothing-ness. I guess my Father decided to bless me with a bigger engine, though we are not sure yet.

In the past month....

Bought the engine mount
Prepped the engine bay (to be painted this weekend)
Bought Zenith carbs
Cut away the rust in the middle of the trunk (Welding this weekend)
Stripped the whole trunk in fear of rust

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 8 2009, 09:32 PM

Let me just start off by saying, I love Snap-On tools. My Dad just bought a whole shop collection, and I think I'm the first to use it.
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Finally added some Alumi-Lead to the trunk, as well as fixed that rust spot in the rear middle.
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Took off all the stuff from the trunk area and sand blacted them. Also took off the original trunk shocks, anyone need the old rods?
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And got the motor mount out.
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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 7 2009, 10:58 PM

Finally the body guy is starting on my car! Pictures galore!

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New seat!!!!
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Posted by: Phoenix 914-6GT Mar 7 2009, 11:10 PM

Looks like things are coming along. Nice score on the tools. I have about 95% Snap-on an love the feel of them.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 8 2009, 12:18 AM

QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Mar 7 2009, 10:10 PM) *

Looks like things are coming along. Nice score on the tools. I have about 95% Snap-on an love the feel of them.


If only they where mine, but there my Dads....

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 13 2009, 08:13 PM

So since I started Spring Break yesterday, I was able to get in a good 4 hours on my car today.

Finally lift it up, and got all the undercoating on the front two wheel wells off.

Seemed kinda pointless, because I'll be putting it back on.

Pictures tomorrow.

Oh! And tomorrow, I pick up my engine!

Posted by: FourBlades Mar 13 2009, 08:25 PM


Great project...keep the pictures coming.

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So what engine are you getting?

John

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 13 2009, 08:33 PM

QUOTE(FourBlades @ Mar 13 2009, 07:25 PM) *

Great project...keep the pictures coming.

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So what engine are you getting?

John


I think I might have fallen victim to my Dads bribe, and I'll go Orange and get the 2.2 (he wants two Orange 6's).

Either that, or a 2.0

I'm excited!

My plan is to have it done by April 20th, my bday

Posted by: nein14 Mar 14 2009, 07:43 AM

Nice Job aktion035.gif

what seats are they?

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 18 2009, 10:34 PM

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Posted by: al weidman Mar 18 2009, 11:56 PM


How do you open the photo bucket pictures?

Posted by: jcambo7 Mar 19 2009, 02:14 AM

QUOTE(al weidman @ Mar 19 2009, 12:56 AM) *

How do you open the photo bucket pictures?

I'm wondering the same thing. A lot of them say its been moved or deleted. Sad cuz I would like to see all the progess of the work and not just part of it. poke.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 09:22 AM

Unfortunatly, Photobucket is being a jerk. I had all my pictures of my project in a general folder. Deciding that I wanted to be more organized, I put them in a specific folder, this caused them to be seen as 'moved'. I'll post them back.

For now, here's more...

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 09:25 AM

Joe adding some primer to the front, I hope to get the front portion under the bumper covered in Rubberized undercoating.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 09:29 AM

Painted trunk, I want to do Rubberized Undercoating here too, and leave it black, despite the color of the car.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 09:47 AM

Forgot to add these from Friday.

Got under the wheels, took off the front suspension, and got at that old undercoating!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 03:13 PM

Pictures of the 2.0L that was came with the car. Totally rebuilt with alot of new goodies, came with the car...... Anyone need a 2L with all paperwork?

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 03:54 PM

The new Engine that is going in it. I think it's a 2.0L-6?

I'll know tonight when my Dad gets back.

More pics to come tonight, as for now, gotta run to the Airport.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2009, 10:00 PM

Some pictures of the polyester application...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 20 2009, 09:42 AM

So as of today, I have One month until I hear birthday3.gif

I really have to haul ass in the next thirty days so I can get this done!


Moving on, the end result of the Polyester on the back fenders and top...

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Posted by: VOX Mar 20 2009, 11:54 PM

good luck! i hope you finish on time!

Posted by: So.Cal.914 Mar 21 2009, 06:31 AM

I like this guy, spring break and he's humping on his teener. smash.gif hands.gif blowtorch.gif whip[1].gif welder.gif blowup.gif sawzall-smiley.gif Keep up the fine work, it should be a great car.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 21 2009, 11:22 AM

Haha, yeah. My 914 is def the important Girlfriend.

Well, we started on the doors yesterday (sorry I forgot to update yesterday). Brief overview. We took the doors off our 75 Sim project, and slapped them on mine. They turned out to be really good with little paint and great primer, so much so that we used this as a base.

Also, I'll have pictures in a bit of a one of my favorite parts. Took some of my Dads 911 mirrors, and plan to put them on the 914. Used the old doors as a mock up, and found a different way to do it, atleast from what I've seen.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 21 2009, 01:29 PM

Ok, so, the mirrors.

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I've never really liked the stock ones, so those are out. Grabbed some of Dads 911's and did a mock up on the old doors, and Joe welded the original holes for the stock ones shut.

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Took of the bottom supports, and I plan on doing this a little differently than I have seen. Me and my Dad did a dry run on the old doors....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 21 2009, 06:06 PM

Todays list.

Polyester-ed the front Driver fender/Door. Looked AWESOME, so awesome, that I brought out the old tires (which are being replaced by 6's and 7's) just to see what it looked like.

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Also, got the rear suspension off, and it will be ground down tomorrow.

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Oh, and of course, can't forget when the doro decided to ever-so-slightly open, and just barely touch the Forklift. headbang.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 22 2009, 03:20 PM



Moving on, started taking apart the Rear suspension. The Haynes manual wasn't much help, so I kinda had to figure it out.

Oh, and of course, the Compressor isn't turning on for some reason, so bead blasting the Rear Suspension is out of the question.... stromberg.gif dry.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 24 2009, 09:42 PM

Finally moving again....

We are SANDBLASTING today kids!

Joe is so happy, he thinks my lid is a Guitar!

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More pictures to come in a few min!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 24 2009, 10:13 PM


Our.....um...... "Sandblasting Booth" ... thank you Waste Management...

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A little repair.....
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Oh yeah, we took out the windshield....
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Posted by: charliew Mar 24 2009, 10:17 PM

Your door had a small flat area where the forklift got to it anyway. I feel sorry for that poor guy in that closed area sandblasting with no air movement. He must like you a lot.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 24 2009, 10:24 PM

QUOTE(charliew @ Mar 24 2009, 09:17 PM) *

Your door had a small flat area where the forklift got to it anyway. I feel sorry for that poor guy in that closed area sandblasting with no air movement. He must like you a lot.


Huh?



He has a mask. He'll live. Lol.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 24 2009, 10:59 PM

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Again, we thank WM!

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Posted by: dlo914 Mar 25 2009, 12:45 AM

LOL...keep up the good work. Lets hope we both finish in time for WCR!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 10:37 AM

QUOTE(dlo914 @ Mar 24 2009, 11:45 PM) *

LOL...keep up the good work. Lets hope we both finish in time for WCR!


Haha, we'll race to finish FOR WCR, and then race AT WCR.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 10:42 AM

By the way, this is what I look like... bootyshake.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 10:55 AM

So we finally headed out last night around Midnight. Fortunatly, we still have the sandblaster here, so I think I'll accidentally forget to return it and hit the engine bay.


I know, I know, I should have done this in the first place, but really, we are only hitting the REALLY hard areas, like that space between the front fenders and the windshield, or inside the air vent just below the windshield. But I really wanna smooth out the sanding I did in the engine bay and make it look just that much better, even though I'll be doing RU in there.

Ordering paint today too! Yeah, I FINALLY decided on a color!



Some pictures to keep you busy when you should be WORKING!


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Posted by: ssstikircr Mar 25 2009, 02:14 PM

Still got a ways to go... but keep up the good work!!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 06:44 PM

Update of todays work:

Broke out both the front and the rear hood, Joe is working on them as we speak. We decided to spot weld the beams on the undersides, as this makes it much stronger and harder to cause a crease lest someone push down on my rear. Also, put a ton of aluma-lead on the top of the trunk for the same reason.

I hate it when that happens. ar15.gif

Joe is beating out the front hood and gonna seal up those emblem holes, though I plan on making more later...


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Posted by: jc914 Mar 25 2009, 06:59 PM

Keep up the good work popcorn[1].gif popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 07:05 PM

QUOTE(jc914 @ Mar 25 2009, 05:59 PM) *

Keep up the good work popcorn[1].gif popcorn[1].gif


Well, I don't know if it's GOOD work, hahhaha!

26 days until 21st Birthday....

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2009, 08:54 PM

Some pictures of the Engine Lid, and the Hood. Deleted the *cough* crooked *cough* holes made by the PO, addes Aluma-Lead and Bondo to both....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 26 2009, 03:41 PM

Apparently, I may need a new front hood. Atleast since my Father is a Porsche freak, we don't have any shortage, but still.

headbang.gif

Stuff is getting done, bondo sanded. As for tonight, I have to help the JDM guys down the way do some vynl for their cars, their going to Willow tomorrow. driving.gif

Posted by: VOX Mar 26 2009, 04:43 PM

why a new hood? damn we need to catch up, we havnt even started our drivetrain yet, then theres the wiring we gotta tackle. im still working on striping/painting the trunks. havnt even started to bondo/prep the exterior for paint.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 27 2009, 09:40 AM

QUOTE(VOX @ Mar 26 2009, 03:43 PM) *

why a new hood? damn we need to catch up, we havnt even started our drivetrain yet, then theres the wiring we gotta tackle. im still working on striping/painting the trunks. havnt even started to bondo/prep the exterior for paint.


Yeah, I'm here at the shop all day, and when I'm not working on the car, the body guy is.

The support that is under the hood caused a ripple, and I might need a lot of bondo if we cant straighten it out more. Things might be looking up though, I'll know in a few hours.


I'm avoiding the wiring. When I was originally taking out the tar from the cabin floor, I was using a Blow torch, before I discovered the magic of Dry Ice. I'm pretty sure I passed over the harness a few times.

As for the trunks, I would just recommend getting about a gallon of painted rubberized undercoating, and spraying the trunk, I think it looks really nice. But of course, thats only if your sure there's no rust.

Posted by: 3d914 Mar 27 2009, 07:59 PM

It's lookin very good!

Be sure to invest plenty of time in that wiring harness. None of the four 914's I've owned were without some wild and crazy re-wiring tricks by the PO's. That would make an interesting post - What was the craziest electrical mod made by the PO?

I must have spent nearly 12 hours on the engine harness for my SHO V6 conversion. And that's the smallest of the three harnesses I need to go through.

Enjoy!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 27 2009, 08:41 PM

I'm starting to slow down. But I plan on putting this back into the gear I was in.... tomorrow, lol.

Primed the rear hood today, it looks really good.

Tomorrow, Suspension is getting painted and put back on. As is the Rear Suspension. All this, while Joe finishes the door, both hoods, and engine lid, and seam seals the jams and the trunk. I'm not compromising, that all will be done tomorrow.

Oh! Helped out some of the JDM Guys down the way with some vinyl, check it out! But first, the Hood!

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Some of the vinyl that I whipped out, I did it mirrored, so it looks like you are looking through the car.....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 28 2009, 04:47 PM

I know I shouldn't, but I really must brag and tell SOMEBODY! Apparently, the Porsche Gods decided to give Enrique an early Birthday present. pray.gif

pray.gif Bilstein Shocks
pray.gif 911 SC Calipers
pray.gif 911 Steering

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 29 2009, 11:31 AM

Painter didn't show up yesterday.... and today he's 30 min late and still no show.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 29 2009, 03:20 PM

I needed to get under the car, but I didnt feel like being on my back all day....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 29 2009, 03:27 PM

Also, got under the car to finish off the spots with bad undercoating...

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Before

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After

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 29 2009, 08:32 PM

Painted under the trunk, will do undercoating as well!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 29 2009, 08:38 PM

Also got the bottom of the Lid!

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Things where so much fun, the Girlfriend wanted to get into some Sandblasting!

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Posted by: SGB Mar 29 2009, 09:49 PM

very sweet.

gonna be a nice car too. smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 30 2009, 09:57 AM

QUOTE(SGB @ Mar 29 2009, 08:49 PM) *

very sweet.

gonna be a nice car too. smile.gif


I hope so, I've been putting in 10-12 hour days on it to get it ready.

3 weeks!




Posted by: RiqueMar May 16 2009, 07:08 PM

Finally, an update.

i've been super busy with school, hopefully, I'm only a week away from a minor Political Science degree.

Now, onto the important stuff.

Car is painted, as is the engine bay undercoated along with the trunk, etc.

One side is wet sanded, and the engine just need the tin put on it.



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Posted by: sendjonathanmail May 16 2009, 08:48 PM

Looking awesome dude! Can't wait to see more progress. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 10 2009, 05:45 PM

Stuff is coming together! And all my sandblasted and repainted parts are really looking good!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 10 2009, 06:04 PM

Completely took apart the horns, and painted them.
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Took of the Light motors of a 75, and made em' look nice. I was really disappointed the black rubber covers off the later cars didnt fit sad.gif
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Cleaned the air system, and the wiper motor....
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Looks really good in the sun. I think it's a different Orange than Sig. Orange though?
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Posted by: VOX Jun 10 2009, 06:17 PM

sweet! progress! i guess because its summer time right? we will soon be able to continue our project as well, my last finals tomorrow. hopefully both of us will finish before summers over and can take a cruise.

Posted by: Gint Jun 10 2009, 08:12 PM

Nice work! Looks great.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 10:12 AM

For that drive, I'm thinking LA to SD along the coast?

Thanks Gint!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 10:54 AM

I have a dash.... kinda. Sorry for the crappy photos, I took them with my iPhone while doing the dash.

I decided to not use foam under the cover, because I want it to look a bit sharper, rather than 'cushy'.

Had to sand out a few bumps.
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The patient is ready...
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Spray adhesive...
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My Dad and I rubbing it down and cutting....
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The finished product this morning!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 10:46 PM

Some movement!

And we are undercoating as we speak! These pictures are fresh! Be back in a few mins!

Updated Windows!

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Added the fog lamps and horn that I sandblasted and painted!
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Sandblasted/painted turn signals!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 11:06 PM

Finally almost done with the undercoating! And some really good taping if I might say so!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 11:08 PM

Inside is done done!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 11:11 PM

Our setup for doing the bottom, as it is in the middle...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 11 2009, 11:27 PM

Last pics for tonight. I have some from underneath that you will see tomorrow, and we will also see how it looks once it has dried and in the sunlight.

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Also, did the inside of the rear hood a few days ago, not the best pic, because the tape is still on the orange....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2009, 10:50 AM


I think it looks really good!

This is the pic I just took about 5 min ago on my phone!

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Posted by: MDG Jun 12 2009, 11:17 AM

Looking good - color is great! What are you using for undercoating?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2009, 11:26 AM

QUOTE(MDG @ Jun 12 2009, 10:17 AM) *

Looking good - color is great! What are you using for undercoating?


Dyna-Pro by Dynatron, #544.

I love it really, and it really helps to deaden sound. However, I'm still considering using Dynamat as well

Posted by: tat2dphreak Jun 12 2009, 12:01 PM

wow, I just got caught up and read the whole thread! great job!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2009, 01:27 PM

QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Jun 12 2009, 11:01 AM) *

wow, I just got caught up and read the whole thread! great job!


Thanks! More pics coming in 5 min!

Posted by: Derek Seymour Jun 12 2009, 01:54 PM

I'm jealous... she's looking really sweet!


Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2009, 03:47 PM

Seat bracket, sand blasted and repainted.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2009, 09:01 PM

Just now I opened up the doors, and sprayed some undercoating in there. I really want to avoid rust, and not worry about driving the car in the rain. Also, I think this plus some dynamat, will be good steps towards making it quite.

I took some pictures, but of course, the iPhone died... dry.gif

Basically, since I have the later reinforced doors, it's undercoating from the bars down.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 13 2009, 10:16 PM

So today, we took a break from the car and did a coast run in the 355, awesome.

Afterwards, we dug out the 5 lug trailing arms. Those are going on tomorrow. Also, pulled the sheet metal out, and that will be going to powder coat on Monday.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 13 2009, 10:54 PM

Ok! So I got the pictures from my iPhone!

These are from yesterday. As you probably know after reading, I updated the doors to 75's because they are reinforced. These pictures are of us spraying undercoating inside the doors. I was going to do them on the inner door, but then I would have trouble putting on the handles. I think I'm going to do Dynamat too.

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Posted by: nsr-jamie Jun 13 2009, 11:10 PM

Wow! This is a cool project! Looking really good too, love it!!!

Posted by: Lou W Jun 13 2009, 11:15 PM

Very nice job beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 15 2009, 01:13 AM

Thanks guys! I really like your 72 in Japan!

More pictures from today! Painted the rest of the inside of the doors, I really like how they look, nice and complete. My Dad actually undercoated the outer part of the doors, but actually had a lot of trouble reattaching things because of the thickness, so this led me to simply paint this part....

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Found the 5 lugs! Just need a little cleaning up!


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Going to start putting the windows together. Darker tint, and blacking out the chrome.


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Lookin' pretty good!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 15 2009, 01:27 PM

As of right now, I'm looking at two sets of trailing arms, the ones pictured below, and another set that is reinforced. I'm not sure what I'll go with, and I have to decide today.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 01:29 AM

Got my hood and trunk shocks! Yay!!!


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Today, I sanded down the vent window chromed bars. I don't want them to be chrome. Pictures to come tomorrow morning!





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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 10:32 AM

Ok, so as I said last night, on my car, I don't much car for the chrome vents.

here is a picture of what I was working with....

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Completely disassembled the actual chrome parts, it's rather easy, just remove the two bolts....

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Sanded down the whole post with 220....

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In this picture, you can actually see the high spots on the post....

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And painted. I don't know if I like this finish, or a more matte one....

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Posted by: my928s4 Jun 16 2009, 10:41 AM

I like the way you finished off the inside of the doors black, nice.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 10:49 AM

QUOTE(my928s4 @ Jun 16 2009, 09:41 AM) *

I like the way you finished off the inside of the doors black, nice.


Thanks, yeah, I think it is one of those small things that really looks nice, and it makes the undercoating inside the door look nicer.

I was just looking at your Project Thread, I really like your progress.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 01:18 PM

Look what I found! Soon to be black to match the bumpers!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 08:32 PM

2 things to add to today, I'm not finished for the day yet, but I thought I would take a break, and then really organize all my parts to see what extra parts I have, and what I need to order.

I know organizing is gonna suck, but I figure if I take a few hours to do it now, I'll be done with it, and wont have to step over stuff anymore.

Anyway, first thing for today is that the 23mm Master Cyl. came in, which was pretty cool. I don't know why the picture I took has an orange glow on it, but the part is brand new.

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The next is that I painted under the dash to get rid of all that overspray.


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Posted by: VOX Jun 16 2009, 09:32 PM

i dont care for the chrome pieces either, i'm going to paint them more of a matte color tho. probably a satin black.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 16 2009, 10:50 PM

QUOTE(VOX @ Jun 16 2009, 08:32 PM) *

i dont care for the chrome pieces either, i'm going to paint them more of a matte color tho. probably a satin black.


SEM paint works awesome, trim black.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 18 2009, 04:01 PM

Updates:

I don't know if you saw my other thread, but I made a little adjustment on the seats.....

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And BAM! Rique has an adjustable seat.

Posted by: 6freak Jun 18 2009, 04:07 PM

Dude your kick`n ass looks great

Posted by: tat2dphreak Jun 18 2009, 04:32 PM

QUOTE(6freak @ Jun 18 2009, 05:07 PM) *

Dude your kick`n ass looks great

agree.gif great job!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 18 2009, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Jun 18 2009, 03:32 PM) *

QUOTE(6freak @ Jun 18 2009, 05:07 PM) *

Dude your kick`n ass looks great

agree.gif great job!!


Thanks guys, I just hope it holds up in a crash, otherwise I'll need to get a new girlfriend!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 29 2009, 10:38 PM

Went to a crazy concert this weekend, so I didnt get any work done on the car, however, today I was able to grab a few things.....

Torsion bars!
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Reinforced suspension.....
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Oh, and this off a 75'.....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 2 2009, 07:50 PM

Some new additions. Reinforced rear suspension. They weren't in that bad of shape, so i just barely touched them up.

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Also, Joe has started Wet sanding. Once he gets around this area, I will be adding all the stuff under the cowl, plus air system and fuel system.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 2 2009, 09:02 PM

Cleaned all the engine rubber....

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This is what they looked like before...
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And the water after I got done cleaning them....
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Do they normally staple these together???
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Posted by: geniusanthony Jul 2 2009, 11:25 PM

Great progress Rique, I truly wish I had the time to take on what you have. Keep up the good work man...

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 2 2009, 11:46 PM

QUOTE(geniusanthony @ Jul 2 2009, 10:25 PM) *

Great progress Rique, I truly wish I had the time to take on what you have. Keep up the good work man...


Thanks! I just want to get it on the road now so I can meet more people with 914s.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2009, 12:13 AM


Some pictures of the result of wet sanding. These dont do any justice, as they where just taken from my iPhone.

I'll take more tomorrow with the Canon.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2009, 10:26 AM

Came in today to see the the rear suspension I painted last night is lookin' good.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2009, 11:07 AM

I FINALLY won an auction on Ebay, and I'm glad it's this one!




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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2009, 02:53 PM

Also, cleaning out the office, look what I found!

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Posted by: PanelBilly Jul 3 2009, 03:30 PM


That's what I need, a car I can finish in a weekend

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2009, 04:08 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jul 3 2009, 02:30 PM) *
That's what I need, a car I can finish in a weekend

I know how you feel Billy. How are you doing? I think we are at about the same area on our builds.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 6 2009, 04:50 PM

My newest win on Ebay....

Also, the Euro tail lights came in today, and they have good housings as well!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 8 2009, 10:57 PM

Finally got in some time to work on the car today, about a good 4 hours. Joe worked on the front hood, laying down the last layer of Polyester.

Also, did something different with thte back hood, think it looks really cool. Pictures to come.

Alsio disassembled the Euro Tail lights, and cleaned and resprayed the housings.

Pics on the way...

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 9 2009, 10:38 AM

As promised, pictures.


Got the new tail lights and cleaned them out. Lots of overspray of many different colors. Painted the inside silver, and it's pretty reflective!


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 9 2009, 10:40 AM

Pic of the backside too. Roughed up the outside with some Scotchbrite, and touched up the black...

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Also, here are the tail lights that arrived with the housings...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 9 2009, 10:45 AM

We wanted to work on the rear hood, but had to do some touch up on the undercoating we sprayed, so instead, we finished off the front with another layer of the alumi-lead and polyester.


What do you think of the two colors under the rear hood?

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The Front hood....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 11 2009, 09:28 PM

Today, Joe finished up the two hoods, they are to be sprayed tomorrow, after we pick up the sheet metal off another 1.8 we have laying around attached to my (future) Side-Shifter! piratenanner.gif

Only problem is, it's attached to an exhaust that is rusted through..... nothing a Sawzall can't fix, right? sawzall-smiley.gif

Found all the (heater?) parts, and sandblasted them. man, did that suck, because they where powdercoated OVER a layer of high temp paint. bs.gif
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These next few shots are from my own little caliper clinic! After reading that how-to by Eric Shea, I leaned and actually completed a little check through, and these turned out to be rather nice
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Oh yeah, and the Girlfriend.... cheer.gif
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 12 2009, 12:42 PM

Today, we are going to another shop of ours and picking the engine tin off a 1.8 we have there so that it can get Powder Coated tomorrow!

Pics later!

Posted by: messix Jul 12 2009, 12:54 PM

your gonna tease a bunch of lecherous dirty old men with that picture?


cruel little punk! happy11.gif lol-2.gif

Posted by: PanelBilly Jul 12 2009, 03:08 PM

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"Get your mind out of the gutter old man, you could be my father!"

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 12 2009, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jul 12 2009, 02:08 PM) *

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"Get your mind out of the gutter old man, you could be my father!"


Bwahahahaha!!!!

We are both laughing av-943.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 12 2009, 05:24 PM

As promised.... pics!


We had a little trouble getting the old exhaust (which was wasted) off... sawzall-smiley.gif
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Engine and side-shift bar....
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Work area...
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New Side-Shift Trans.....
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All good sheet metal to go to Powder Coating!
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Painted Engine lid... Joe is taking the two hoods to the paint booth!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 13 2009, 10:40 AM

You know, it's pretty cool when you come into work, and the first thing you see is your hood, trunk, and engine lid all painted beautifully. aktion035.gif

Pics in a second....

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 13 2009, 10:56 AM

The painter actually made a make shift paint booth, so I had to move them outside while being careful, as they are still tacky.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 14 2009, 10:30 AM

A few pictures of the Engine shrowd before sandblasting.... in a few hours it is being sent to Powdercoat for wrinkle black.

Turns out, I get the PCing for free, as we have some sims to send, so it gets mixed in with the batch.

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Also might send the Engine bar? Not sure yet if I want it to match the engine shrowd or if I want to do the color of the car, OR something different, like red....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 14 2009, 06:40 PM

Just dropped all the engine tin off for Powder Coating and I realized I forgot the Engine Bar. Oh well, looks like it's gonna be a dif color.... Yellow? Orange? White?

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jul 15 2009, 03:07 AM

very nice

Posted by: faux916 Jul 15 2009, 02:12 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 14 2009, 04:40 PM) *

Just dropped all the engine tin off for Powder Coating and I realized I forgot the Engine Bar. Oh well, looks like it's gonna be a dif color.... Yellow? Orange? White?


I say paint it body color or satin black. Don't go gettin all goddy with it. Just my opinion. Cool project. I can't wait to see it all together. driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2009, 03:05 PM

QUOTE(faux916 @ Jul 15 2009, 01:12 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 14 2009, 04:40 PM) *

Just dropped all the engine tin off for Powder Coating and I realized I forgot the Engine Bar. Oh well, looks like it's gonna be a dif color.... Yellow? Orange? White?


I say paint it body color or satin black. Don't go gettin all goddy with it. Just my opinion. Cool project. I can't wait to see it all together. driving.gif


I know! I'm stoked about it! Probably either of those, but I would think it would have to be high temp paint, right?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2009, 05:37 PM

I just realized this thread is 9 pages.... Wow.




Got the fuse panel today! Yeah!

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Posted by: Sleepin Jul 15 2009, 05:52 PM

Nice! I need to get one of Engmans fuse boxes one of these days!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2009, 07:41 PM

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Jul 15 2009, 04:52 PM) *

Nice! I need to get one of Engmans fuse boxes one of these days!


It is a nice little addition. I really like it for my car, because I want my car to reflect the young part of me, being my first build, and show a few updates here and there.


As for right now, I currently just finished (loosely) installing the right rear suspension, but I'm looking for the two bolts for the other side. A little while back, we totally went through all the nuts and bolts in the entire shop, I've already found a few that where organized with the shop ones, so i think thats where they disappeared to....

Pics later....

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2009, 10:36 AM

Loosely installed Rear Right, everything nice and painted, even the bolts....

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Turns out, we had an extra Six suspension, and it was a real hassle trying to figure why certain torsion bars wouldn't fit....
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And as the Porsche Gods would have it, we just so happen to have brand new joints laying around
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Posted by: Sleepin Jul 16 2009, 10:45 AM

Nice! Well, you have about 64 days until RRC! biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2009, 02:13 PM

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Jul 16 2009, 09:45 AM) *

Nice! Well, you have about 64 days until RRC! biggrin.gif


Maybe yeah.... It's a long drive to CO, but I've never been so we will see!


These JUST came in the mail thanks to ebay/GPR and Panel Billy! We have a set of new Hella turn signals, and air ducting....


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Posted by: JazonJJordan Jul 16 2009, 04:05 PM

shades.gif Nice work Rique~ we are enjoying your great progress. Thanks for the freq updates to progress. -Jzn shades.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2009, 06:04 PM

QUOTE(JazonJJordan @ Jul 16 2009, 03:05 PM) *

shades.gif Nice work Rique~ we are enjoying your great progress. Thanks for the freq updates to progress. -Jzn shades.gif



Thanks, thats cool to hear!

It helps to to hear the suggestions/comments/etc on here as well.

More updates later....

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2009, 09:38 PM

914/6 Suspension with Torsion bars found/sandblasted/painted. Also have all new joints.

I really dig the Satin black. I was thinking of silver, but went with this.


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Posted by: MDG Jul 16 2009, 09:45 PM

Keep it going; it's all looking fantastic!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 22 2009, 02:22 PM

Just got the powder coated engine tin back!

Pics in a few mins!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 22 2009, 02:31 PM

The engine tin before....


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And now, in wrinkle black, I really like the texture and how the whole set looks...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 02:02 PM

Some brand new parts...


Clutch Cable
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Accelerator Cable
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Speedo Cable
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Front wheel bearings
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E brake cables
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 02:11 PM

Very funny Jrust....

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Box seems a little big for my nuts....
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Posted by: MDG Jul 23 2009, 02:21 PM

even the, um, bag seems a little too big for your nuts.

keep your chin up - you're young, maybe they'll grow.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 03:05 PM

QUOTE(MDG @ Jul 23 2009, 01:21 PM) *

even the, um, bag seems a little too big for your nuts.

keep your chin up - you're young, maybe they'll grow.


Guess I should be spending less time with my car and this progress thread, and more time with the girls, huh?

As for the pictures, I had to add them, Jrust really helped me out and he demanded I add them, can't say no.

Posted by: MDG Jul 23 2009, 03:05 PM

Well, some girls yes. But some can actually make them smaller. Govern yourself accordingly.

oh, and your nuts aside, keep it going - this build is looking killer!

Posted by: JRust Jul 23 2009, 03:08 PM

I was sending those out & thought that might be worth a laugh! biggrin.gif I forgot about it until he sent me a pic with a NICE lol-2.gif . I laughed for a good 5 minutes driving down the road. Make good use of those nuts dude. NO vise grips okay blink.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 03:12 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 23 2009, 02:08 PM) *

I was sending those out & thought that might be worth a laugh! biggrin.gif I forgot about it until he sent me a pic with a NICE lol-2.gif . I laughed for a good 5 minutes driving down the road. Make good use of those nuts dude. NO vise grips okay blink.gif


Nope only Snap-On for my nuts.

Posted by: MDG Jul 23 2009, 03:14 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 23 2009, 05:08 PM) *

Make good use of those nuts dude. NO vise grips okay blink.gif



you might go blind

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 03:53 PM

QUOTE(MDG @ Jul 23 2009, 02:14 PM) *

QUOTE(JRust @ Jul 23 2009, 05:08 PM) *

Make good use of those nuts dude. NO vise grips okay blink.gif



you might go blind



Well, now that the rear suspension issue is to be solved by tonight, the next order of business is the front suspension, of course, I have to wait for the torsion bar adjusters that should be here tomorrow.

Already have the tires for all four out of my Dad's infinite stash. I'm thinking 6's and 7's?

After that, the new cables go in, as well as the new bushing for the Side-shift.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2009, 10:55 PM

The car is back up on the Snap-On lift, and I plan to have it rolling next....

For now, alot of pics...

Setting up the suspension. Came off a Six....
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What's this? It looks to be a treasure box?
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It is!!!!
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Assembling the suspension....
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Touched up the hubs
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Parts to go on tomorrow...
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2 cool pics....
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While it's up there, a few pictures of the undercoating we did, but never got a chance to see...

That bar is going to be Silver....
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I really like how that separation turned out...
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I will NOT have rust on this car...
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 24 2009, 02:32 PM

Got a package in today from The Cap'n. Torsion bar adjusters for a 6. Also, going to be putting on a bump steer kit....

A while ago, I also picked up some new bolts that bolt in the headlights. They are black and treated and just look better overall.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 26 2009, 03:07 AM

Today I made great progress. I installed the front suspension completely. It was completely aligned, and set really well. I also was able to find a place to get my brake rotors turned.

However (there's always a however) the steering column didnt go though the hole that leads to the inside of the cabin, so I had to take the whole front susp. off headbang.gif This completely discouraged me.

Oh well, start again tomorrow on the trim. Also, I have to wait for the steering bushing to arrive from Pelican Parts. dry.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 27 2009, 12:27 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 26 2009, 02:07 AM) *

Today I made great progress. I installed the front suspension completely. It was completely aligned, and set really well. I also was able to find a place to get my brake rotors turned.

However (there's always a however) the steering column didnt go though the hole that leads to the inside of the cabin, so I had to take the whole front susp. off headbang.gif This completely discouraged me.

Oh well, start again tomorrow on the trim. Also, I have to wait for the steering bushing to arrive from Pelican Parts. dry.gif



You can see here where I scratched the undercoating while putting in the front suspension headbang.gif
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Rubber liner for the engine bay, scratched the holding part a little bit, but I'm not as concerned, this is under the car and is going to get really dirty/scuffed/dented anyway....
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Dug these old things out of storage 16 x 7's all around.....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 01:03 AM

Don't know if I posted this yet, but these are the brakes I'll be using on the front. I already have the whole setup including rotors, struts, upgraded Master Cyl, etc.


I'm thinking red?



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Posted by: VOX Jul 28 2009, 03:25 AM

everythings looking great, man i've been slacking off out of money. gotta go to palmdale tomorrow and buy the adapter plate.

Posted by: jetboy Jul 28 2009, 05:20 AM

I'm simply astonished at the work and detail you are doing. Looks great. Jealous indeed.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 02:35 PM

Yes! I found the steering wheel bearing! Front Suspension going on in 4 hours!

For now, it's soaking in penetrating lubricant, and I'll re-grease it before it goes in.

Also, called Pelican and had to order new wheel bearing clamp nuts for the 914/6 fronts that I have.... $180 bucks for those, hub to rotor screws, caliper rebuild kits, and 2 thrust washers..... Gay

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 06:37 PM

Yay for eBay!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 06:54 PM

I'll be working on bearings alot right now, I think there will be a short section in here on how to properly load/grease bearings, as I have make a mistake in trying to do this before.

Should I do this and if so, should I make it here or a separate thread?

Again, I might or might not take pictures, because I want to get this done AND still have it for the this summer, now that I'm 21.

Posted by: PanelBilly Jul 28 2009, 07:50 PM

Your working way too fast! I need for you to take a few days off so I can catch up to you.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 08:54 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jul 28 2009, 06:50 PM) *

Your working way too fast! I need for you to take a few days off so I can catch up to you.


Looks like you're working late tonight billy, because my Suspension is on!

To sum it up, I have a 914/6 front end. In the last week of hunting parts, I've learned that this is basically a 911 front end, as I have Bilstein struts with Carrera A Calipers and rotors, and the Torsion bars and adjusters are that of a type 911. Also learned that I NEED a steering wheel bearing and that torsion adjusters of a pre 69 911 will not work on this setup..... wish I knoew that before buying them on eBay.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 08:55 PM

Pics.....


Steering boot with bearing. Before I put the bearing in, cleaned it with penetrating lubricant, and re-greased it. Also, before you lock it in there, be sure to put a little grease on the half moon bracket. Cuts down on squeeking....

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The suspension, look good?
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Painted the caps silver, thought this was a nice little touch...

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The ones that WONT fit.... Any buyers?

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2009, 10:19 PM

Started painting the brake calipers, decided on Red. Pics to come.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 10:33 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 28 2009, 09:19 PM) *

Started painting the brake calipers, decided on Red. Pics to come.


Partially painted brakes. Started off with a small brush to get the difficult areas. Will finish the bottom and inside today, and probably give everything a second coat.

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Posted by: Twise Jul 29 2009, 12:19 PM

Looking forward to seeing your car next to mine at the SoCal BBQ - You think your gonna make it?


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 12:32 PM

QUOTE(Twise @ Jul 29 2009, 11:19 AM) *

Looking forward to seeing your car next to mine at the SoCal BBQ - You think your gonna make it?


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I'm really really trying. If anything, I'll tow it out!

Posted by: 6freak Jul 29 2009, 01:01 PM

Look`n good man keep plug`n away gonna be super nice when done

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 02:02 PM

QUOTE(6freak @ Jul 29 2009, 12:01 PM) *

Look`n good man keep plug`n away gonna be super nice when done


Thanks! Thats really appreciated coming from a guy with a car as nice as yours, hope I can be comparable to it someday.

New parts just arrived! Front Wheel clamp nuts and thrust washers. These are needed when upgrading your front suspension to type 911. I was trying to make the ones off a conversion work, but they are not the right size. Don't not make my mistake!!!


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Also got in 2 Caliper rebuild kits for my rear brakes.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 07:28 PM

Just picked these up at a secret rendezvous. I guess they will due....

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Also, this diamond plate material is going to be the 'floor' for my battery tray...



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Posted by: MDG Jul 29 2009, 07:34 PM

I know a lot of guys swear by Koni shocks; I have Bilstein on all four corners too - Love 'em!

It's all looking great

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 10:00 PM

Rears are on....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 10:05 PM

Hubs on, along with Bilstein front struts, mounting and all ready to go for rubber....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 10:07 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2009, 10:09 PM

And we are on wheels!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 30 2009, 09:49 AM

Thought this was a cool picture...


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Posted by: Derek Seymour Jul 30 2009, 05:44 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 29 2009, 09:00 PM) *

Rears are on....


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Looking great.... but don't forget to zip tie the springs and perches together.

Posted by: Sleepin Jul 30 2009, 05:50 PM

Red Rocks... biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 30 2009, 08:15 PM

More stuff has come in!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2009, 10:18 AM

Sorry there haven't been pics for a few days, but I have been working.

Saturday: Went to get a bolt for the front tie rods. Ended up scoring a set of Turbo tie rods for 75 bucks!

Sunday: Got all the wheels on and checked the suspension. It is REALLY stiff.

Monday: Since we are moving the shop, we had to trailer the car to the new place (only about a mile)

Oh, BTW, ignore the upside-down front turn signal. I put the lens on before I put it on the car.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 2 2009, 10:50 PM

Ok, so it's been the better part of a month, and I havent posted anything.

I know, I know poke.gif

Ok, so here we go, I plan to have the wiring done by this weekend or so, while still making time to go to the BBQ in Escondido. Anyone else going?

Tonight, we identified and seperated most of the wires and I cleaned up the overspray. We also connected up the rear tail lights.

Tomorrow, we are getting my battery, as well as new battery cables and plastic wire wraps.

Just one picture for right now, and that is my Dad doing an inventory of what we need to finish up the wiring.
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On another note, Dads excited to finally have his 328 prepped and sent off. This was about a week ago, so we expect it back tomorrow.
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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 9 2009, 11:05 AM

Havent updated in a few days, but I HAVE been working.

Some pics now and later (for all of you in your offices)

WIRES! WIRES!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 9 2009, 11:08 AM

Optima Batt.

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Also took apart this old thing. Cleaned and painted it.


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Thought this was a cool picture of my Dads 328 and the 914

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 9 2009, 11:11 AM

A pictures of my elegant list making for wiring. This is for the plug that connects to the steering wheel....

More to come in the next few hours, have to upload them and the iPhone is dead at the moment.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 9 2009, 07:12 PM

I decided I didnt like the look of the basic plastic sheathing that originally came on the car so I updated it with this newer type that coiles and comes off and on easier.

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Had to go with a bigger size in the tunnel....

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It was not fun to get that oold plastic off as it's really hard and thick....

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Also, the accel./clutch/brake cables are coming out and gettting replaced with all new ones....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 15 2009, 10:35 AM

Some pics from this last week.

Big thanks to my Dad for helping me with the wiring.


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BTW, I'm replacing ALL the wiring sheathing.

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And as you may know, Football season started again, so of course, a Plasma went up in the new shop. Joe took full advantage of it.

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Lastly, we decided to go with conectors for the horn and fog lights.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 30 2009, 11:37 PM

Found a pump for the windshield wipers

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I'll be using the three small VDO gauges (Volts, Clock, Head temp) in my new center divider. I like this one I found (minus the wood and switches) which I'll probably replace with black gelcoat.

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Stainless steel brake lines!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 30 2009, 11:40 PM


New headlamps. Although these wont do, becfause they don't fit. H4's instead.

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We 'transported' the 76' to the new shop...

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Hoods on the car for the first time....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 10 2009, 02:10 PM

Engine work starts today.

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 10 2009, 09:13 PM

Some pics of my engine as of today....

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Also, we picked up a 75 that had a Ferrari Dino body kit on it (bought it for the molds, it will become a simulator) and I pulled the 1.8 out of it. Need a 1.8? Check in the classifieds or PM me...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2009, 10:12 AM

Engine assembled yesterday!!!

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Posted by: faux916 Oct 12 2009, 09:46 PM

Your project is coming along nicely. With all that work I guess you did not have time to start on the T-Bird yet?

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 13 2009, 10:38 AM

QUOTE(faux916 @ Oct 12 2009, 08:46 PM) *

Your project is coming along nicely. With all that work I guess you did not have time to start on the T-Bird yet?


I did a very small amount of work on the Thunder Chicken.

Took off all the trim and got rid of the mold/rust underneath.
Rebuilt the carb.
Got the trunk open and resprayed inside (where my Grandfather left fertilizer).
Got all the lights working.

To me, the tbird is secondary. I want to get the 914 done so I can drive and finish it. THe Bird is going to need alot of love, probably in the form of media blasting. welder.gif

Posted by: faux916 Oct 13 2009, 06:37 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Oct 13 2009, 09:38 AM) *

QUOTE(faux916 @ Oct 12 2009, 08:46 PM) *

Your project is coming along nicely. With all that work I guess you did not have time to start on the T-Bird yet?


I did a very small amount of work on the Thunder Chicken.

Took off all the trim and got rid of the mold/rust underneath.
Rebuilt the carb.
Got the trunk open and resprayed inside (where my Grandfather left fertilizer).
Got all the lights working.

To me, the tbird is secondary. I want to get the 914 done so I can drive and finish it. THe Bird is going to need alot of love, probably in the form of media blasting. welder.gif



Thanks for the update. Please add some photos when you have time. We have an all original baby blue '63 in storage beggin to be tubbed. I would add a photo but I lost a hard drive a few weeks ago and there ain't no more driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 13 2009, 07:48 PM

I think I have a pic or two off hand from the show I took it to. It was so nice, they put me in the display area! Sweeet! icon_bump.gif



Anyway, heat exchangers. Grabbed them from the other shop yesterday evening when I took my cousin to her citizenship class. They where pretty shotty to begin with....




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Threw them in the sandblaster, but the rust was really tough, I was worried for a second, and also, the blaster was kinda loosing power, so I had to grind about half of each....



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Turns out they weren't bad at all, thank God! biggrin.gif Painted them with high temp, and I think they look pretty good, no?



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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 15 2009, 02:01 AM

Didn't get really anything done on the car today, as we went to K1Speed for a little indoor Karting! Pics to come!!! driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 15 2009, 08:12 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Oct 15 2009, 01:01 AM) *

Didn't get really anything done on the car today, as we went to K1Speed for a little indoor Karting! Pics to come!!! driving.gif


Some pictures from yesterday, my Dad won 2nd Place!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 15 2009, 08:17 PM

Also, thanks to siverson for the deal on the Magnaflow Muffler, it will be loved.

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Posted by: jcambo7 Oct 15 2009, 08:43 PM

popcorn[1].gif You car is coming along very nicely riquemar. Very nice job.

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 15 2009, 09:48 PM

QUOTE(jcambo7 @ Oct 15 2009, 07:43 PM) *

popcorn[1].gif You car is coming along very nicely riquemar. Very nice job.


Thanks man! And thanks for commenting, it really is motivation when I get input from others, because this is my first build.

Today, after I got the Magnaflow, I ran out to San Marcos to VW Paradise and grabbed a little bling for the engine as well as some stuff to help me assemble the Heat Exchangers this weekend. By this weekend, I plan to have the exhaust and engine done together, as well as carbs on the car....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 19 2009, 01:03 PM

Had a rather large shopping list this weekend that got larger when I went to Paradise VW... "Oh! I'll need that!.... and that.... and that.... Oh! This is on sale!?"

$427 bucks later......

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 19 2009, 01:32 PM

Heat exchanger assembly..... Much easier instead of doing it vertically.

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Also, engine is complete with trans. We tried starting it, but the starter is worn. No worries, I have 2 more though....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 21 2009, 12:46 AM

Its ALIVE!!!! It's ALIVE!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Difr6gxeHME&feature=youtube_gdata

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_ZMfZSZGVg&feature=youtube_gdata

Posted by: Rand Oct 21 2009, 12:52 AM

Very exciting! Git some air cleaners on there. What's the break-in plan?

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 21 2009, 10:10 AM

QUOTE(Rand @ Oct 20 2009, 11:52 PM) *

Very exciting! Git some air cleaners on there. What's the break-in plan?


Oh, for sure. I already have them and they will go on tonight. I had some sparks coming from the bottom, where the transmission meets the engine, anyone have an idea what this is from? I'm thinking I did something wrong with the throwout bearing?

As for break in, a few weeks ago at the German Auto Fest, we bought a magnetic filter to take care of all those metal shards.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2009, 10:10 AM

Space is prepped.....

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Car is up!


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Engine is in place....


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My Dad and I placing it (I'm on the left, Dad on right).....


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It's in!!!! drunk.gif piratenanner.gif beerchug.gif cheer.gif flag.gif aktion035.gif smash.gif smilie_pokal.gif

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Fitting for 48's????? pray.gif
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Now the car sits approx where I want it to be....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2009, 10:52 AM

New location of the fuel pump....

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Posted by: MDG Nov 9 2009, 11:01 AM

Congratulations!!!! smilie_pokal.gif

Oh, and color me purple with envy on that fringed doily thing hanging out of your trunk.

always wanted one of those . . . .

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2009, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(MDG @ Nov 9 2009, 09:01 AM) *



always wanted one of those . . . .



That didnt make sense until I read that you're from Toronto..... KMA.gif

Kidding, kidding. All in good fun.

Posted by: dakotaewing Nov 9 2009, 01:37 PM

I am not a type IV expert by anyone's standards, but I was wondering how big your motor was...? 48 IDA's tend to be way too big for most applications, causing flooding, running rich, backfires, etc.

Just a thought...

Posted by: MDG Nov 9 2009, 02:19 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Nov 9 2009, 02:22 PM) *

That didnt make sense until I read that you're from Toronto..... KMA.gif


dry.gif

It's looking great - can't wait to see pics of it under it's own power.

Posted by: tat2dphreak Nov 9 2009, 02:44 PM

QUOTE(dakotaewing @ Nov 9 2009, 01:37 PM) *

I am not a type IV expert by anyone's standards, but I was wondering how big your motor was...? 48 IDA's tend to be way too big for most applications, causing flooding, running rich, backfires, etc.

Just a thought...

agree.gif it looks great, Congrats!! driving.gif smilie_pokal.gif

but 48s? holy-exxon I think most of jakes 2.4s are using 44s! 48s are fckin huge. tell us about the engine! aktion035.gif

Posted by: Van Nov 9 2009, 03:44 PM

Will that fuel pump move enough fuel for those carbs?

Awesome build - I just read your thread from start to finish!

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2009, 09:14 PM

In response to your questions on the 48s, without getting too technical, it all has to do with the venturi size, emmulsion tubes, and the primary jets.

..... This all equals a good running engine with that uncomparable IDA woot sound.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 17 2009, 12:10 PM

Ok, so I have a boring update, but an update non-the-less.

Whoever the PO was, he decided to Powder Coat the heating tube parts without removing the paint. screwy.gif

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Worked on these for a bit and plan on putting them on the car either tonight or tomorrow.


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Also, spruced up the brake lines a bit. Unfortunatly, the ones on my car I over looked before painting, so now they are uncoated and Orange dry.gif Luckily, the 76 had some good ones.

I was originally going to go with braided, but after that thread last week, I decided to hold off.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 21 2009, 03:09 PM

Headlights are in and mounted, chrome is polished. Really like the look of the H4's.

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Sanded down the headlight shrouds, and put a base on them, might go a little more flat....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 21 2009, 03:10 PM

My fault, double post.

:edit::

Posted by: type47fan Nov 21 2009, 08:37 PM

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Headlight surrounds:

Looks like you have the original 1970 white ones that had been painted black.

If you want, I have black ones off of my '76 that have <85,000 miles that you can have. I'm back dating with the early white ones on my car, as pictured above. You might want to attempt restoring the white surrounds, at a later time. They're rare and correct for your model year.

Let me know. I'm in Carlsbad.

Great progress thread!

Thanks,

Posted by: PanelBilly Nov 22 2009, 02:33 PM

Your finishing your car so fast now. When your done I hope you're planning to come up to Seattle to help me finish mine...

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2009, 02:50 PM

You are missing the big cup washers on your transmission mounts ...

shades.gif Andy

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 23 2009, 07:38 PM

Billy, that would be really cool! I'm def gonna look into a drive up the coast.

Andy, thanks, I couldn't find the cups when we where putting it up, but it is on the list! Then again..... EVERYTHING is on the list.

smash.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 24 2009, 12:47 AM

Finishing up the heating tubes and everything under the car, does this look right so far?

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Posted by: Gint Nov 24 2009, 08:39 AM

Do you have a washer on that engine bar mounting bolt? Doesn't look like it from here. Heater stuff looks fine.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 24 2009, 09:55 AM

QUOTE(Gint @ Nov 24 2009, 06:39 AM) *

Do you have a washer on that engine bar mounting bolt? Doesn't look like it from here. Heater stuff looks fine.


Gint, thanks for the reply. I actually do have the washer on there, just checked.

Would anyone happen to have a picture of all the tubing, I ran a search, but I don't thmk it's a popular item to photograph.

Posted by: Zaney Nov 24 2009, 01:04 PM

For the heater piping I was missing the gaskets (if there were ever any there) so, I carefully used the orange RTV high temp gasket maker to help seal up the pipes. It is a little cooler up here in the Seattle area than So-cal so, it is your call.

I used pics from cars on this site to help confirm the set-up of the heater system.

Looks awesome! beer.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 24 2009, 11:39 PM

QUOTE(Zaney @ Nov 24 2009, 11:04 AM) *

For the heater piping I was missing the gaskets (if there were ever any there) so, I carefully used the orange RTV high temp gasket maker to help seal up the pipes. It is a little cooler up here in the Seattle area than So-cal so, it is your call.

I used pics from cars on this site to help confirm the set-up of the heater system.

Looks awesome! beer.gif



Are referung to the brass gaskets that go between the heat exchangers and the engine?

Thanks by the way!

Posted by: Zaney Nov 25 2009, 11:44 AM

No, I was referring to the connections between the flappers and the J-pipes to the heat exchangers themselves. I used the high temp RTV because I was tired of Carbon monoxide and car fumes getting pumped into the cabin. (Older VW drivers will understand) My heat components were not as nice and straight as yours so, there was some room for 'making it fit'.

The copper nuts were used to secure the HE's to the studs at the bottom of the engine.

Looks Great! driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 26 2009, 12:36 AM

Starting to update a little more. Trying to recuperate as I took my cousin to the Lady GaGa concert the other night, which was REALLY awesome.

Took apart the shifter/carb choke from my Dads six, as he is going with a different tranny system, and I like the idea of a choke.

Some before and after pics....


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Sidenote: Checking out how the brakes look....



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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 6 2010, 09:44 PM

So finally after about a month of no updates, here we are again.


We have a Dually that we use for work, and coming back from an event, it broke down. Not a big deal, just bought a similar one and changed over the body panels, it's just deal with the guy that does it, as he is a tornado in our shop.....

First off, completely took apart, cleaned, and repainted the air blower that goes under the cowl....

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And of course, upon putting it in, I tightened it too much and cracked it....... so I had to get a new cover, paint that, etc.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 8 2010, 01:35 PM

Few more updates....

Pulled the tank out of storage, cleaned it, and welded up the return nozzle from the fuel injection. Also painted the sensor. There was a very small amount of gas-crap in the tank, but I'm not worried as it was only in the screen which is to be expected, and furthermore, I have already opened up and checked the tank....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 8 2010, 07:34 PM

As I mentioned before, I'm going to carbs, so this is the return valve that I clamped and welded shut.

Can not WAIT to hear the sound of those carbs! aktion035.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 10 2010, 11:37 PM

A small progress today, but it was in one of those areas that will let me get alot done. Almost completed putting in the heater controls and defrost vents, just have to attach the drivers side wire controls. Took the lower assemblies off a 76', as well as the controls.

I'm really happy with this progress. Although small, it's a big hump that will allow me to put in the air blower, gas tank, brake reservoir, and windshield washer bottle, all of which I can put in relatively quickly.

For the defrost vents, I went to Lowes and bought some foam door weather stripping that has an adhesive on one side, to act like tape. I think this will do well to black the cold air...



The 76' donor....
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Cleaned and grabbed the best defrost vents I could find.....
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Mounting them in my car
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Posted by: oz371 Feb 18 2010, 01:57 AM

I can't wait to see this thing. Keep it up! aktion035.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2010, 12:05 AM

QUOTE(oz371 @ Feb 17 2010, 11:57 PM) *

I can't wait to see this thing. Keep it up! aktion035.gif



Thanks man!

Finally started to tackle the wiring. It's cool to see my headlights turning on, and the wiper motor going. Heater assembly is also in. Pictures to come tomorrow!

As for now, it's the Dad's 49th birthday, so I'll be needing a special smily for this.....


drunk.gif beer3.gif beerchug.gif birthday3.gif


Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 21 2010, 08:27 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 21 2010, 12:05 AM) *

QUOTE(oz371 @ Feb 17 2010, 11:57 PM) *

I can't wait to see this thing. Keep it up! aktion035.gif



Thanks man!

Finally started to tackle the wiring. It's cool to see my headlights turning on, and the wiper motor going. Heater assembly is also in. Pictures to come tomorrow!

As for now, it's the Dad's 49th birthday, so I'll be needing a special smily for this.....


drunk.gif beer3.gif beerchug.gif birthday3.gif


birthday3.gif To your Dad! The work is looking great! popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2010, 09:55 PM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Feb 21 2010, 06:27 AM) *



birthday3.gif To your Dad! The work is looking great! popcorn[1].gif



Thank you sir.

As for the project thread, we got ALOT done today....

Finished up the heater vent work by adding new tubing, love the way it looks. Also put in the brake resevoir....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2010, 10:08 PM

It's weird to see this back on the car again....

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Windshield wiper assembly back in it's place, and it works! Had it running today, even though I need to do some alterations to make it fit to the /6 steering wheel we have....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2010, 10:26 PM

Grabbed a few things off an extra /6 harness we have laying around, ignition, relays, etc.....

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Also, found a /6 relay board (top right)....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2010, 10:38 PM

Lights are working as well!

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Also, broke out the CAMP 914 kit that my Dad got for the turn signals....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2010, 11:54 AM

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Got these earlier. A USB charger to keep my iPhone charging even when the car is off, and a set of relays for the center console. Eventually, I'll be adding a 'cradle' for my iPhone to go in the center dash.

Starting off this new week, I'm checking into alarms and automatic door locks. I guess it all goes to the 'while I'm here' mentality.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2010, 09:45 PM

Didn't get a chance to really work on the car today, was a little busy putting vynil on our new truck....

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The other day, in anticipation, pulled the new master cylinder out (21mm). This and the clutch/accelerator/brake cables will go in tomorrow, in addition to the brake wiring and pedal assembly....



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Posted by: veltror Feb 23 2010, 03:24 AM

Where did you get the USB charger, any details etc?

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2010, 11:40 AM

QUOTE(veltror @ Feb 23 2010, 01:24 AM) *

Where did you get the USB charger, any details etc?



Hey veltror, it's DAQstuff.com, got the address for you here below....

http://www.daqstuff.com/automotive.htm

Hope that helps! bye1.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2010, 10:15 PM

Got an hour tonight, so I was able to do a few minor things....

First, got lucky and found the original relay board for my car, and it's in really good condition, even has the cover....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2010, 10:25 PM

Took the dash material off the 76'. Even though it's not period correct, I like the later dash material better. Cleaned off the back, and gave it a rinse. Excellent condition, the pictures really don't do it justice, color is still perfect, no fading. This will go in the car next so I can put in my switches....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2010, 10:27 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2010, 10:31 PM

Also, put the door stops on. A while back I completely took these apart and cleaned them, just need to find some pins..... Donations welcome!


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Posted by: veltror Feb 24 2010, 06:55 AM

Thanks Rique !! just what I was lookign for... now to try and find it in the UK

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 24 2010, 11:18 AM

QUOTE(veltror @ Feb 24 2010, 04:55 AM) *

Thanks Rique !! just what I was lookign for... now to try and find it in the UK



According to their site, they ship to Uk with no problems.

It was def a necessity for me, as my iPhone is my sidekick.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 1 2010, 12:19 PM

Was able to drag my Dad to the shop for a day to help me out, it's amazing what happens and gets done when he's with me.....

A pic of the pedal cluster that I rebuilt (about a year ago dry.gif ). On the other side of that is my new 23mm Master Cylinder....

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Did a little adjustment on the torsion bars, as well as added that foam insert that goes between the cap and the housing, I really dig how the car sits now, and even think I'll go for that 'rake' look, where it's lower in the front than the back....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 1 2010, 12:23 PM

... putting in the new Speedo' Cable, as well as the new Accel./Brake/Clutch Cables.... My Dad hurt his knee a few weeks back, right before he turned 49... Happy Birthday to him....

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A picture of the new 23mm MC....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 1 2010, 12:36 PM

Finally putting in the switches and able to actually route them, this will def clean things up.....

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Fog lights working, but I think I'm going to get the Pilot Lights from CAMP. As a side-note, we are wiring these to be 'on/off', as I like to be able to turn them on and not use my headlights....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 1 2010, 12:38 PM

Finally! My car is getting some sunlight! It's crazy how much different the Signal Orange looks in the sun, I can't wait til it's sanded and buffed out to get all the dust off of it.....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 3 2010, 12:16 PM

Ok, so something interesting things I've learned recently regarding /6 conversions....

Apparently, the /6 steering wheel has it's own connector to attach to the windshield wiper motor, which on /6's are different. This makes sense as the wiper controls on a /6 are different.



Luckily, I've found a /6 wiper motor, although dirty, that cleaned up nicely. You can see the connectors in the pictures and how they differ from the /4 connectors. Now it's just a matter of mapping this to my car....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 14 2010, 03:11 AM

Been digging a few things out of storage this weekend...

Ordered a set of Pilot lights for both me and my Dad. Switch needs a small amount of work, but I'm not too worried about that....

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Kudos to my Dad for finding a few brand new pieces of rubber...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 14 2010, 03:15 AM

I *literally* stumbled on this....

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Bumpers!

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Speaker grilles!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 15 2010, 12:29 AM

Pilot lights installed, just need to make a few small alterations to the harness to fit the switch to the new wiring.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 15 2010, 12:34 AM

Moving some things around today so that the Gas company can put in a 'smart' mater this week. Next project....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 15 2010, 12:41 AM

Did not really do anything on my car today, as we decided to move it to the house to do the finishing touches on it. Of course, had to clean a bit first...


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 16 2010, 12:05 AM

So, even though you really cant tell from the picture, I gave the car a thorough wash down today, what a difference in color! signal914.jpg Now all the bondo and fiberglass dust from the shop is gone!

Also, as I said before, I moved the car to the house to finish up, love it. Even though it's a little less room, it's alot easier to work in, especially since daylight savings has come, and I can work later....


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Posted by: RiqueMar May 16 2010, 07:41 PM

Finally got out there and did some work on the car. Its at that point where it's SO close!

I want everything to be very clean, so I've been obsessive with my wire routing!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 16 2010, 07:50 PM

I'm thinking this for the dash insert instead of the basket weave...


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Posted by: veltror May 18 2010, 02:15 AM

Exactly!! i have bought m,yself a Carbon Fibre sheet and will do the same, i always hated that passanger seat belt light thing, bloody Safety Wankers!!! now I will be able to get rid of it.

Posted by: 6freak May 18 2010, 07:22 AM

IMO that last pix of the brown ground is questionable ..with all that rino liner under the washer .....other then that very nice work ...happy wrenching smile.gif your coming right along

Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2010, 09:45 AM

QUOTE(veltror @ May 18 2010, 01:15 AM) *

Exactly!! i have bought m,yself a Carbon Fibre sheet and will do the same, i always hated that passanger seat belt light thing, bloody Safety Wankers!!! now I will be able to get rid of it.


Agreed. On my car, the warning light for the seat belts is disconnected, as well as the seat sensors.


QUOTE(6freak @ May 18 2010, 06:22 AM) *

IMO that last pix of the brown ground is questionable ..with all that rino liner under the washer .....other then that very nice work ...happy wrenching smile.gif your coming right along


Good observation,I made sure to have cleaned all the grounds though, so I'm not too worried about it.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 19 2010, 10:33 PM

Saturday night and where is this 22 year old single guy? Just got finished working on wiring.....

Pulled out the ignition today. Had a little trouble with the top pop rivet, but nothing a little fab wont fix. Took it to a locksmith to get rekeyed and should have it back in a few days. Just enough time to get all the wiring in....

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Posted by: Jon Fernandes Jul 2 2010, 10:43 PM

Any progress? popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: mepstein Jul 3 2010, 05:53 AM

And what about your fathers car?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 5 2010, 01:27 AM

QUOTE(Jon Fernandes @ Jul 2 2010, 09:43 PM) *

Any progress? popcorn[1].gif


QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 3 2010, 04:53 AM) *

And what about your fathers car?



Hey sorry for the lack of update(s) guys, there's more to come, I promise. I want to have the car done by August, so I want to get back up to daily updates like I was a while back.

As for information, I took the ignition in to get rekeyed the same day I took it out, and the locksmith told me it would be done by Wednesday at the latest. Didnt call. Finally I called the following Wednesday, and he said it would be another week, as he didnt have the proper keys. So we will see this Wednesday.... blink.gif

My Dads car is still there, he might transplant the engine from this car into his /6. Luckily, we've made my car our priority, he has his other 'toys' to keep him busy....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 6 2010, 01:33 AM

As promised....

My Dad and I (ok, mostly my Dad) put up the dash vynil today, I'm really liking the way it looks....

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Also, started to re-start (?) the work on the wiring harness....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 6 2010, 01:36 AM

Also popped in the relay board for the first time since it's been out. Still needs a bit of cleaning, and to find the harness, but all is there!

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Did some 'wire management' in the engine area, cutting off the old hard plastic sheat and putting one that is removable....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 6 2010, 10:21 PM

A few pictures from putting on the dash vynil the other day. We stayed away from the spray adhesive, and went for the Woodweld contact cement.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 01:29 AM

Trying to decide on the carpet. Whether to go with something like this, charcoal, or black.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 01:52 AM

Only got a small but important task done today. Found one of the plugs that goes from the relay board to the engine off one of the other cars. It was alittle rough, so I took off most of the old plastic, and cleaned everything off.

Before/After

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 01:57 AM

Also, as I was cleaning that portion of the harness, a neighbor walked by and we got to talking about my car. He noticed my dash, and told me he had some Carbon Fiber that, if I promised to put to 'good use' I could have. 10 minutes later, he comes back with this! Can anyone say new dash plates? Center divide insert? Maybe rear '914-6' script between the tail lights?

beerchug.gif piratenanner.gif aktion035.gif drooley.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 09:48 PM

After having gone through that 75' 3.6 my Father purchased the other day, we both realized how nice we've done our cars (atleast we think so). We both came to the conclusion that my car deserves a /6. The reasoning behind it is that people will see it, and like, it until they realize, "Oh, it's a Four cylinder..." dry.gif

Today I pulled out this original /6 engine that has been sitting around for a few years. It's been converted to 2.2 liters. I think I've mentioned it before, but atleast now, I actually know the significance of it having been stored inside, having turbo valve covers, and Carrera chain tensioners. I know at the minimum I'm going to need a new fan shroud.

I'm taking out to Vista tomorrow to have it checked out...... Fingers crossed! Let us PRAY to the Porsche Gods!!! pray.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 09:50 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 09:53 PM

I'm still a Rookie (couldn't you tell?) but I believe the number on the engine is *6300063* I'm looking it up, but I believe this does in fact correspond to a 914/6.

Comments/questions/"Stupid rookie jokes" welcome

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2010, 10:50 PM




More numbers. I still have yet to find out what this engine is. I've been trying to find an 'Engine Decoder' headbang.gif







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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2010, 01:28 AM



Fixing up/ sandblasting the trim. No chrome on this one.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2010, 01:29 AM



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2010, 09:24 AM


Hopped across the street to get an alarm system and door-lock actuators....

Only bought 2 actuators, but I'm going to need a thrid, probably for the front trunk. If I go 3.0L with CIS, I'm going to grab one more actuator, and hook it to the engine lid, as it's my understanding that you have to 'delete' the latch.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 19 2010, 08:59 PM

Trim is going on!

Say, 'no' to Chrome!

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Posted by: jcambo7 Jul 19 2010, 09:47 PM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 23 2010, 09:41 AM


Continuing my, 'Say no to chrome' campaign.....

Window bars are now black


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Posted by: charliew Jul 23 2010, 11:19 AM

This reminds me of a 40 ft boat in the gulf around florida right now

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 27 2010, 02:25 AM

QUOTE(charliew @ Jul 23 2010, 10:19 AM) *

This reminds me of a 40 ft boat in the gulf around florida right now


?




Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 27 2010, 02:29 AM

Package came today!!!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 27 2010, 02:29 AM

Package came today!!!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 5 2010, 12:34 AM

It's coming down to the time to decide, and, after seeing a YouTube video of a carbed /6 engine today, I think I'm going with a 3.0l carbed engine.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 15 2010, 09:32 PM

Got some time to work on the car today, and made some progress.


Got the wiring in the front trunk cleaned up.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 15 2010, 09:49 PM

Door locks installed, and I started on the windows. Also, I'm and idiot, and the two windows bars I painted black are both for the passenger side door.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 15 2010, 09:52 PM

Also, I found much to my surprise, that someone has run oil lines in this car before, and it's done rather well! ... Atleast, thats what I think

These were tajen under the driver side door, and just infront of the left-rear wheel, looking toward where the oil tank will be.

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Posted by: SirAndy Aug 15 2010, 10:18 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 15 2010, 08:52 PM) *
Also, I found much to my surprise, that someone has run oil lines in this car before, and it's done rather well! ...

Not oil lines. Those are the factory holes for the gas tank expansion tank plastic lines.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108524

bye1.gif Andy


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 15 2010, 11:05 PM

Aaaaah, ok, that makes sense. Well, seeing as I'm going to carbs either way, I suppose I could use these or, mirror this on the passenger side. Thanks for the correction, Andy.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 5 2010, 10:59 PM

I finish the bodywork on my car! piratenanner.gif .... Only to start it on another headbang.gif


::sigh:: oh well, here's to RRC.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 20 2010, 11:18 AM

RRC was a blast!! .... Except for my 'parting gift' on the way back....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 20 2010, 11:22 AM

RRC definitely got me motivated on the original project. This weekend, I trailered the car BACK to the shop, and got both windows in. Man, they look great with the new rubber from 914rubber.com. Also, I decided on the late style windows. I really like the color of the tint on the Orange car. For me, this was a big hurdle because now I can get my door speakers, alarm wiring, radio, etc in.

Maaaaaaybe some Dynamat/Fatmat????


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Posted by: Jon Fernandes Oct 18 2010, 05:48 PM

Any recent progress? Keep it up!

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 12 2010, 04:13 AM

Although it's a very delayed response, there's been a few developments, yes, all with pictures to come.... tomorrow!

Basically we've fitted a Euro-Spec SC engine with carbs, and that will be going into my car. Also, both my Dad and I went through the driving school through the local PCA, awesome event, I have plenty of pictures and videos.

Also, got my speeding ticket in the mail. Not bad too bad. It was about half of what I thought it to be.

Like I said, pictures tomorrow.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 14 2010, 12:32 AM



The Engine....



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The Zenith carbs (pre-cleaning)....

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Cleaner...

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Post cleaning...

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Posted by: JRust Dec 14 2010, 10:47 PM

Nice Rique! Good to see progress on it. The 3.0 is a great motor. Not bulletproof but pretty damn close. Great fit for a 914 popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 15 2010, 03:03 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Dec 14 2010, 08:47 PM) *

Nice Rique! Good to see progress on it. The 3.0 is a great motor. Not bulletproof but pretty damn close. Great fit for a 914 popcorn[1].gif


Thanks man!

I'm really stoked about it. I'm trying to find out more about the 'Euro' aspect of it.

I eventually either want to drop in that extra S Motor, or this other 3.2 we have sitting around.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 15 2010, 03:05 AM

Update! Found the other Weber! So now it's a decision between the Zeniths or Webers. Got both the rebuild kits today, so we'll see!


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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 15 2010, 03:06 AM

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Also, got some Homework to do!

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Posted by: Root_Werks Dec 15 2010, 12:20 PM

People have pretty strong opinions on Zenith vs Weber. I preffered Zenith for street cars where you didn't 'fiddle' with jets and adjustements all the time like you would on a dedicated track car. Zeniths are better carbs than Webers, smoother transition from idle to part to full throttle. There was just more R&D spent because they were installed on factory sold cars.

Zeniths are harder to find parts for, but you can get everything you need to feed a 3.0. I sourced all the parts I needed to feed a destroked 2.7 (2.5) and they worked very, very well.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 15 2010, 02:18 PM

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Dec 15 2010, 10:20 AM) *

I preffered Zenith for street cars where you didn't 'fiddle' with jets and adjustements all the time like you would on a dedicated track car. Zeniths are better carbs than Webers, smoother transition from idle to part to full throttle.



That basically goes along with what I'm hearing, that Zeniths have a smoother feel an for the street, they're great.

As for finding parts for them, both these sets are pretty complete. We are cleaning both of them right now, and the only thing I need so far is a float for each of them, as one was crushed (Weber) and the other was just old (Zenith).


I have a Youtube video I'll be putting up from the other night when I first took off the CIS and we were messing with the Zeniths before cleaning/rebuild, and they sounded pretty good, and that was without even touching them!

Posted by: Root_Werks Dec 15 2010, 02:30 PM

Zeniths have more adjustements you can make. It takes more time, but once you get them dailed in, they are a pretty sweet carb setup for 911 engines.

One of the tips I picked up from a local VW shop was source Solex parts. I stopped asking for "Zenith" parts and was able to find in stock at a local VW performance shop little things like jets and seals etc.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 28 2010, 01:34 PM

Ding! Carbs are done!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 28 2010, 01:42 PM

Shot of the inside before......


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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 28 2010, 01:42 PM

Shot of the inside before......


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Posted by: J P Stein Dec 28 2010, 01:51 PM

I never touched the jetting on my Webers for 8-9 years.......and seldom did the mixture screws after the "final" set up....that took a couple months. They are/were smooth top to bottom...no surge, flat spots,yada. Internet dabblers & carbs are a joke for anyone that takes the time to learn what makes them work.

The only problem I had was occasionally over G loading them and pulling gas away from the mains. Dabblers know even less about that.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 28 2010, 02:19 PM

QUOTE(J P Stein @ Dec 28 2010, 11:51 AM) *

I never touched the jetting on my Webers for 8-9 years.......and seldom did the mixture screws after the "final" set up....that took a couple months. They are/were smooth top to bottom...no surge, flat spots,yada. Internet dabblers & carbs are a joke for anyone that takes the time to learn what makes them work.

The only problem I had was occasionally over G loading them and pulling gas away from the mains. Dabblers know even less about that.




Um..... Are you calling me an 'internet dabbler'? cool_shades.gif

Posted by: SLITS Dec 28 2010, 02:52 PM

All of that coming from the "Drivelmeister" ..... hmmmmmmmm

Posted by: J P Stein Dec 28 2010, 03:18 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Dec 28 2010, 12:19 PM) *





Um..... Are you calling me an 'internet dabbler'? cool_shades.gif



You didn't say something absurd like "Webers are fiddly", so no, you're not included ...unless you wanna be. biggrin.gif

You like the Zeniths, fine. You'll learn that they are "fiddly" till you learn what it takes to make them work.

Posted by: messix Dec 28 2010, 03:34 PM

JP is sounding more and more like a "crusty" old man!

take a Geritol and get over it JP! happy11.gif av-943.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 29 2010, 05:30 PM

QUOTE(J P Stein @ Dec 28 2010, 01:18 PM) *


You didn't say something absurd like "Webers are fiddly", so no, you're not included ...unless you wanna be. biggrin.gif

You like the Zeniths, fine. You'll learn that they are "fiddly" till you learn what it takes to make them work.





Thank you J P, you're proving Root Werks to be absolutely correct bye1.gif ......




QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Dec 15 2010, 10:20 AM) *

People have pretty strong opinions on Zenith vs Weber......



Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 6 2011, 06:26 PM

Working on this now....

Went to the other shop to grab a pair of HE's.... and came back with 2/5 pairs. Guys are gone for the day, so I have the whole shop to myself..... Heeeeeello 80's mixtape!






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Set 3... Looks like headers that someone started to make into HE's? I dunno...


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Posted by: mepstein Jan 6 2011, 07:17 PM

Do you need those in sunny San Diego? They would bring a pretty penny in colder parts of the country/overseas.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 6 2011, 07:58 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 6 2011, 05:17 PM) *

Do you need those in sunny San Diego? They would bring a pretty penny in colder parts of the country/overseas.


I'm going ahead and sandblasting all of them. I might part with one, but I dunno. They're coming out REALLY good, just giving the compressor a bit of a break.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 7 2011, 12:25 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 6 2011, 05:58 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 6 2011, 05:17 PM) *

Do you need those in sunny San Diego? They would bring a pretty penny in colder parts of the country/overseas.


I'm going ahead and sandblasting all of them. I might part with one, but I dunno. They're coming out REALLY good, just giving the compressor a bit of a break.


Got one set done, took about 2 hours to do two.... Small puncture in one, but I'm gonna turn out the other set tomorrow, and see how it is. Amazing how 40 years of crap can come off in 2 hours




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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 7 2011, 12:32 AM



I should note, I'm not COMPLETELY done cleaning them, but mostly. What are some ideas for coating? Just high temp paint?



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Posted by: mepstein Jan 7 2011, 05:30 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 7 2011, 01:32 AM) *
I should note, I'm not COMPLETELY done cleaning them, but mostly. What are some ideas for coating? Just high temp paint?
Ceramic paint/Jet Hot coating. Inside and out. Spend the money, make them look nice and last another 40 years.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 9 2011, 09:42 PM

Took it a bit easy today and organized and put on these door panels. I think they look pretty sharp. Still have to put on the handle/pocket on the drivers side....



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 9 2011, 09:49 PM

Oh! Also, I took the valve covers and chain tensioner covers off the 3.2 as well, I'll swap these when they get powder coated....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 10 2011, 01:19 PM

Video of engine running. Gotta love that sound!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVHdABfd3hM&hd=1

Posted by: Krieger Jan 10 2011, 07:32 PM

Sounds good! What exhaust are you running?

Posted by: Mr.242 Jan 10 2011, 09:02 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 6 2011, 11:32 PM) *

I should note, I'm not COMPLETELY done cleaning them, but mostly. What are some ideas for coating? Just high temp paint?


I just dropped off my HEs to PERFORMACE COATINGS here in Auburn, WA. http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html

If you wait a bit, 2 weeks, I'll show you pics of what mine look like when done. And give you an opinion. Quoted $275 for both to be done. Figured they need the extra protection since it is a SIX. picked silver titanium as the color.


Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2011, 12:40 AM

QUOTE(Krieger @ Jan 10 2011, 05:32 PM) *

Sounds good! What exhaust are you running?


Thanks! Thats actually the stock muffler with the cat still on it. I swear, it was glowing red after a few go's, I hear they don't do well with carbs, who knew? huh.gif . For now, I'll be running stock /6 exhaust and am going to see if I can do the same muffler, I'm hoping it sounds just as good or better inside the engine bay of the 914, and I definitely think it sounds better in person, the GoPro can't capture what it really sounds like.



QUOTE(Mr.242 @ Jan 10 2011, 07:02 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 6 2011, 11:32 PM) *

I should note, I'm not COMPLETELY done cleaning them, but mostly. What are some ideas for coating? Just high temp paint?


I just dropped off my HEs to PERFORMACE COATINGS here in Auburn, WA. http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html

If you wait a bit, 2 weeks, I'll show you pics of what mine look like when done. And give you an opinion. Quoted $275 for both to be done. Figured they need the extra protection since it is a SIX. picked silver titanium as the color.


Sounds cool, I'll check it out. We may have some stuff from the shop going out to a coating shop this week, so if that's so, I want to throw my stuff in there as well. $275 doesnt seem bad.


Posted by: ONTHEGRIND Jan 11 2011, 01:18 AM

We use dispersant coatings which are a performance based coating and help radiate heat from the valve train and cylinder heads only problem is it only comes in black..

Pm me for more info..

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2011, 11:25 PM

Starting putting in the carpet. But before that, I wanted to have some 'padding' to go beneath it, plus I don't like how you can see beneath the seats and such in the 914....

At my Dads advice, I got some cheap felt carpet and started laying it down. This allows for padding and some sound absorption, and the black backround looks much 'neater' and clean than just seeing the panel.

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Started off by cleaning the area, then taping around the wiring harness and anywhere that the glue can go....


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The felt with no backing is really easy to 'form' to the spaces and crevices...


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Then, after everything is is set, cut out the spaces around the harness so you have access.....


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Repeat for the whole pan.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2011, 09:48 PM


Carpet kit went in the car today. Black plush carpet....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2011, 09:52 PM

Oil tank looking good after some paint touch up, I was actually surprised how little work it needed. Has oil sitting in it now with everything plugged up....

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Took me about 30 minutes, but I got all the sheet metal... I'm one happy camper biggrin.gif

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Posted by: malaga_red75 Jan 17 2011, 11:30 PM

what kind of carpet was the stuff that you glued in? I am looking for the thin, GT style carpet for my project.


Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2011, 11:55 PM

QUOTE(malaga_red75 @ Jan 17 2011, 09:30 PM) *

what kind of carpet was the stuff that you glued in? I am looking for the thin, GT style carpet for my project.



I think it's just black matting of some type. I think it was about $9 a yard. I think it would be pretty cool for a GT project, I would def recommend contact cement though.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 18 2011, 11:56 PM

With the carpet crossed off, this is the next item on the list.....


This is basically what I'm dealing with right now.... I'm kinda bitching, but the rest of the car is done, and everything is good, it's just getting everything nice and neat and back to stock....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 24 2011, 05:14 PM

Shameless plug...

The 4cyl (2.0) I was originally going to put in my car is up for sale in the classified section


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=114948





Posted by: Mr.242 Jan 24 2011, 11:10 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 6 2011, 11:32 PM) *

I should note, I'm not COMPLETELY done cleaning them, but mostly. What are some ideas for coating? Just high temp paint?



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Here's my HE that I just got back from Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA.

beerchug.gif Well worth the $230 to have 'em done!
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 25 2011, 09:22 AM

QUOTE(Mr.242 @ Jan 24 2011, 09:10 PM) *

Here's my HE that I just got back from Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA.

beerchug.gif Well worth the $230 to have 'em done!
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Yep, those definitely look awesome! I'm taking some stuff to powder coating, and I'm gonna see what they can do for my HE's there.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 27 2011, 10:31 AM

Few new developments and 'finds'...


Forget MOMO, Dad found and gave me this.... Its 'Personal' shades.gif



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Also acquired 2 lifts that we are putting up now, a Four-post and a Two-post...

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We are looking into doing an RSR tribute car to promote our racing simulators... and we got this with the car... I was originally going to go with a 3.0 SC engine, but this 2.7 looks to be more fresh, as everything appears to be new on it (tensioners, powdercoated valve covers, etc). It shows only little signs of use and was recently converted to 2.9, leading me to think that it's been recently gone over. I'll be taking the CIS off later today....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 27 2011, 03:25 PM



Off Topic Sidenote: Congratulations to my Father on another beautiful car..... Now if only I could get him more motivated on his 914!!!




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Posted by: MoveQik Jan 27 2011, 07:24 PM

Will it be done in time Route 66? biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 27 2011, 08:21 PM

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jan 27 2011, 05:24 PM) *

Will it be done in time Route 66? biggrin.gif



Hmmm, I hadn't thought of that... it's in April right?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 28 2011, 12:11 AM

The Engine when I started earlier....



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Midway through...


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Now.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 28 2011, 12:27 AM

Question: Why does it say '911 S CID'?

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 31 2011, 11:18 PM

Now I'm not, by any means, looking to enter this engine in a beauty contest. However, I am trying to get all the junk off of it, so I've resorted to 'Engine Bright' and industrial strength Simple Green.

On a side note, I have realized one thing recently..... Life is SO much easier with an engine stand.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 31 2011, 11:34 PM

Sidenote: We finally got in our lifts. I hope to drop the four cylinder thats currently in my car (the one on the right), put in this engine, and also a Rennshift shifter and linkage kit..


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 1 2011, 04:23 PM

My Father happened to find this online for only $100 dollars!

Now if I can just find it's twin, I'll be set!




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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 1 2011, 04:46 PM

Looks good Rique! Where all did you put the FatMat? I have a new carpet kit I'm going to install this month and was thinking of FatMat(ing) the car first. How much did you end up using?

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 2 2011, 10:31 AM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Feb 1 2011, 02:46 PM) *

Looks good Rique! Where all did you put the FatMat? I have a new carpet kit I'm going to install this month and was thinking of FatMat(ing) the car first. How much did you end up using?



Hey AZ,

The Fatmat is going go on the firewall and in the doors. If I remember correctly, I ordered 25 ft. If you check back, I'll be putting it in either today or tomorrow.


As for last night, I decided on some 'Engine Bling'....

Before.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 2 2011, 10:33 AM

Mid....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 2 2011, 10:35 AM

After...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 2 2011, 08:03 PM

Wow, my 1,000th post..... and I'm still not done.... crazy...


Tonight we are laying sound deadener..... It's not as fun as I thought it was going to be.

This is where I am right now, and I'm about an hour and a half into it. Decided that I'm going to be doing the floors just below the seats, as that seems more 'tinny' than the doors.


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Posted by: McMark Feb 2 2011, 08:54 PM

Lookin' good. Can't wait to sound deaden my car.

Posted by: Bee Jay Feb 2 2011, 10:49 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 2 2011, 06:54 PM) *

Lookin' good. Can't wait to sound deaden my car.

I put felt on top of Fatmat in my Corvette. Then I put the carpet kit in. Yes, it really worked great. Wasn't my idea. Someone with an acoustic engineering degree on the Corvette Forum suggested it.
Bee Jay

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 2 2011, 10:58 PM

QUOTE(Bee Jay @ Feb 2 2011, 08:49 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 2 2011, 06:54 PM) *

Lookin' good. Can't wait to sound deaden my car.

I put felt on top of Fatmat in my Corvette. Then I put the carpet kit in. Yes, it really worked great. Wasn't my idea. Someone with an acoustic engineering degree on the Corvette Forum suggested it.
Bee Jay



Bee Jay,

Yeah, I was going to go with just the felt on the floor, then the carpet kit, but they give you ALOT of Fatmat. I just got done, and I covered the firewall, the lower firewall, the floor under the seats, and both doors. I already had the felt on there but then said 'screw it' and ripped it off. I'll be putting on more tomorrow.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2011, 10:36 AM

All done. Ok, so with 25sqft, you're able to do the firewall, the lower firewall, the rear part of the center tunnel, below both seats, and both doors. I actually wasted a few feet getting pieces stuck together, had I not messed up I could have probably done the forward part of the center tunnel. It's pretty easy, as this only took me about 4-5 hours. I used Fatmats 'Mega Mat' which was about $70 for 25sqft

A few points...
-The stuff doesnt start to stick until you really put it on there and roll it
-If it gets stuck to itself, forget about it, it's stuck, move on to the next piece
-Measure, measure, measure. Lay down the piece and use it as a stencil if you have to
-Do it with your carpet kit out..... ask me how I found this out dry.gif
-The doors are noticeably heavier, and now close with a 'thud'


I forgot my iPhone at home yesterday, so I took these pictures by holding my laptop up.... It's harder than it looks.

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Posted by: J P Stein Feb 3 2011, 11:18 AM

163.9 cubic inch displacement =2.7L roughly.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2011, 11:43 PM

Of course, the trimming of the valve covers.

A few weeks back, I asked about taking down the valve covers. I'de seen alot of answers, but could'nt find a definite about to trim, so I just put it on the machine, and took it down to about .005 about the mounting holes, in order to shave off a little more tomorrow.

..... I suppose I could have done it with a sander, but that just freaks me out.


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More and more progress!!

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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 4 2011, 09:04 AM

looks awesome! Thanks for the FatMat info. I think I'm going to do the full firewall and floors/tunnel.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 4 2011, 09:49 AM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Feb 4 2011, 07:04 AM) *

looks awesome! Thanks for the FatMat info. I think I'm going to do the full firewall and floors/tunnel.



25sqft is definitely enough, with 50 I could see you doing the whole car and the firewall and rear floors 2-3 times or the car twice.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 4 2011, 09:55 AM

Came in this morning, and found my valve covers sheeplove.gif humping sheeplove.gif another engine....

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Lower covers...

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Posted by: Gudhjem Feb 4 2011, 11:33 AM

Just finished reading the whole thread. Nice work!

I can't wait to see how your no-chrome mission turns out. I'm considering going the same way for mine.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 5 2011, 02:18 PM

QUOTE(Gudhjem @ Feb 4 2011, 09:33 AM) *

Just finished reading the whole thread. Nice work!

I can't wait to see how your no-chrome mission turns out. I'm considering going the same way for mine.


Thanks man! I'm stoked to drive it atleast by this summer! I'm su=ick of looking at it....






Decided to tackle the fan and shroud last night before going out on a Friday night. This was also a good opportunity to check out the condition and clean the alternator.

Disassembling the fan from the alternator is quite easy, ESPECIALLY when you have Wayne Dempseys book 101 Projects for your Porsche 911. All you have to do is remove the nuts on the back of the fan housing, disconnect (and mark) the wires that go to the alternator, disconnect the main nut on the front of the fan, and 'tap' out the fan/alternator from it's housing. I took this opportunity to sandblast and clean the fan, housing and alternator......

Keep in mind when painting the fan, this is gonna be the coolest part.... that absolutly no one sees dry.gif





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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 5 2011, 02:24 PM

Engine bits going on probably next week as I have to go back to Panama on a business trip mad.gif



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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2011, 09:42 AM

Well, I'm back from Panama. We were finishing up a sim center down there and hopefully this will be one of the last trips I had to make. It's a good thing I went too and not my Father, as the day before I left, he was having problems with his Kidneys (he has chronic Kidney stones).

Here's a few pics from the 'family business'. We design and manufacture driving simulators and on this project, our customer was the Panamanian government for whom we built 12 Volvo Bus Simulators for there public transit system. They are updating their Public transportation system and use our simulators for evaluation and training of new drivers. It's not our 'Race Division' but it was certainly a cool project building this sim center complete with a conference room, multimedia class-room, and 12 sim labs. I Hope someday the US gets on track with driver training through simulation.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2011, 09:43 AM

Now that the business trip is outta the way, I'm able to get back to the REALLY important stuff, like my car!

Ordered a leakdown tester from the Snap-On rep, and I'm very happy with the results, which lead me to believe this engine is pretty 'fresh'...

Cylinder 1
5% leakage

Cylinder 6
5% Leakage

Cylinder 2
7% Leakage

Cylinder 4
7% Leakage

Cylinder 3
7% Leakage

Cylinder 5
7% Leakage


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Running a little rich were we?



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Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Feb 16 2011, 02:54 PM

piratenanner.gif Cool to hear about the family biz.

Those plugs look fine blink.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2011, 05:32 PM

QUOTE(PeeGreen 914 @ Feb 16 2011, 12:54 PM) *

piratenanner.gif Cool to hear about the family biz.

Those plugs look fine blink.gif



Thanks! A few more pics.....

Right before I left we had a 'shooting day' for some promotional trailers we are doing for our Race Sims. What a fun work day driving cars with my Dad and Grandfather.

The Production company is called KwikFilms, and they do great work for events, products, and even personal cars. Some of their short videos are just awesome and very reasonably priced....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2011, 06:29 PM

Slightly related....

JUST sold my engine today! piratenanner.gif beer3.gif cheer.gif first.gif sunglasses.gif

Looks like Riques getting a Jwest linkage kit, Rennshifter and maaaaaaybe some PMB brakes?

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2011, 11:34 PM

Spent today cleaning the hell out of the fiberglass, even bead blasted the metal part VERY carefully.

Trying to figure out if I want to paint the shrowd.... Did a semi mock-up today. I'm thinking maybe grey, or just leaving it, but the fan is definitely being painted black.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 17 2011, 06:13 PM

Thanks Jamie! We're 'classy' with a 'k'...


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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 18 2011, 12:13 PM

Looks great!!! I wish I had skills sad.gif

Re: the Shroud - Color match your orange? Or are you running rain-hats or a stockish air cleaner box? Maybe mix orange and black.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 18 2011, 03:31 PM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Feb 18 2011, 10:13 AM) *

Looks great!!! I wish I had skills sad.gif

Re: the Shroud - Color match your orange? Or are you running rain-hats or a stockish air cleaner box? Maybe mix orange and black.



Yeah, I might color match the orange, but it's in pretty good condition and I like the green as a 'nod' to history.

Posted by: Gint Feb 18 2011, 07:39 PM

Nice man!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 1 2011, 03:22 PM

Thanks Gint, I'm trying!


I posted in the Garage, but I'll double up.


Here is the video from the shoot I mentioned earlier. Hoping to get some feedbakc from you guys as this is only the first in a long process, our 'rough draft'.


http://youtu.be/wMeizrIgmC8?hd=1


Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 14 2011, 12:05 AM

Lot's happened since the last post.

Dropped and sold the engine, and transported it with 'Riques Engine Delievery service....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 14 2011, 12:18 AM

Also, I got to work on my carbs and manifolds. Since I'm switching to carbs from CIS, and seeing as how I don't want to recurve my distributor, I added the nozzles for the vacuum advance.

Luckily, the manifolds I was going to use originally already had the outlets for them, and I just happened to find another set of manifolds that look to be in better condition with (factory) coating on them?

It's really very simple, just drill the hole (I think it's about 1/2' and the smaller is 1/8) and then tap the threads.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 14 2011, 12:26 AM

Next in line, the carbs. The guy who rebuilt them forgot about the immolation tubes as well as the squirters, so I had to grab them from another set that we bought that turned out to have a huge crack dry.gif

Re-assembled them, and I was going to go with the stock covers, but those K&N Cleaners look SO cool!


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 16 2011, 09:01 PM

I'm a sucker for new engine bits..... as meaningless as they may be.....

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My current headache, the new engine mount. I THINK I have the Rich Johnson mount, but I'm not sure as we found it on eBay. Today was spent reading other peoples threads, figuring out the height, and researching. To add on to that, now that the 4 cyl is gone, I really have no excuse to start hacking away...

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Regardless of which mount I have, I'm not about to unplug everything just to get it into that mount, so I'm fabbing up a sort of 'bridge' like I've seen in other mounts, so I can simply lay the mount on top and start welding away....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 18 2011, 11:58 PM

The mailman is my new best friend, I swear, I nearly trampled the guy when I saw the box he had in his hands....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2011, 01:53 PM

Finished work on the engine mount, I'm really liking how it turned out. In a 'well while I'm here' move, we also welded up the seems on the mount.... that thing isn't going anywhere....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 19 2011, 02:01 PM

Having that welded, it was time to cut the original back piece....


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The final product....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 20 2011, 11:14 PM

So one minute we are having fun at St. Patricks Day, drinking Green beer, listening to Irish rock... Next minute someone runs or falls into me, I fall and hear a 'pop'..... Life hurts

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Posted by: MoveQik Mar 20 2011, 11:52 PM

You pansy! Get back to work on the car so we can make fun of you at Route 66. biggrin.gif

Get well soon! beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 21 2011, 04:38 PM

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Mar 20 2011, 10:52 PM) *

You pansy! Get back to work on the car so we can make fun of you at Route 66. biggrin.gif

Get well soon! beerchug.gif



sad.gif I'm not gonna make it to Route 66. I was going to take the 3.6, but I have a 6:45 flight Monday morning out of Orange County. barf.gif

I wanna have this car up for RRC.... maaaaaybe I'll even steal your design for an oil cooler? idea.gif

Posted by: Gint Mar 21 2011, 04:51 PM

Dude... we break up Sunday morning usually. You should have plenty of time to get home Sunday afternoon/evening.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 23 2011, 12:07 AM

idea.gif hmmmmm


Found this relay board, looks to be out of a /6? Not quite sure, anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

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Also, getting stuff ready for a trip to the cad platers....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 23 2011, 07:51 PM

Walking out of the office today, and someone says, 'You got a package, don't forget it"

Seeing as I already know what it is, I hop in the car and throw it on my cousins lap and tell her, "Openit. Openitrightnow!"

I think you all can guess who's 'handy work' this is.....







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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 23 2011, 07:53 PM

Alot bigger in real life.....



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Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Mar 23 2011, 08:48 PM

I remember when I opened a package like that drooley.gif Eric does such nice work. Those brakes were one of the hottest things on the phoenix. drooley.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 23 2011, 09:44 PM

QUOTE(PeeGreen 914 @ Mar 23 2011, 07:48 PM) *

I remember when I opened a package like that drooley.gif Eric does such nice work. Those brakes were one of the hottest things on the phoenix. drooley.gif


agree.gif


Since 'vendor thank you threads' and 'vendor complaint threads' are the new thing around here....



Thank you ERIC SHEA!

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 24 2011, 10:21 PM

LOL... thank YOU.

I'm looking for some pins and springs for you. If all else fails Carrera kits work. wink.gif

Posted by: Sleepin Mar 24 2011, 11:20 PM

Dude, you better get your ass up to Route 66! You know that if you skip a Route 66 or a Red Rocks, that you become an event virgin again! laugh.gif


Nice brakes! Eric is (hopefully) doing a set of S-Calipers for me as well starting next month! drooley.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 25 2011, 04:46 PM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Mar 24 2011, 09:21 PM) *

LOL... thank YOU.

I'm looking for some pins and springs for you. If all else fails Carrera kits work. wink.gif



Can't wait to put these on! Kinda feel like my car has a bit of history now!

Thanks Eric, sounds great.



QUOTE(Sleepin @ Mar 24 2011, 10:20 PM) *

Dude, you better get your ass up to Route 66! You know that if you skip a Route 66 or a Red Rocks, that you become an event virgin again! laugh.gif


Nice brakes! Eric is (hopefully) doing a set of S-Calipers for me as well starting next month! drooley.gif



RRC is definetly on the calendar.... Route 66 is probably a no go, I have a 7am flight the next morning.... To Ohio blink.gif

Posted by: Sleepin Mar 25 2011, 08:18 PM

At least send the better looking one of you to Route 66...... we will ensure that she stays out of trouble. rolleyes.gif smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 26 2011, 09:53 AM

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Mar 25 2011, 07:18 PM) *

At least send the better looking one of you to Route 66...... we will ensure that she stays out of trouble. rolleyes.gif smile.gif



Haha, yeeeeeah about that...... she's now an ex...... Oops? confused24.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 28 2011, 09:11 AM

My dad and I built this table for the back area of the shop, which is the designated car area. Almost done, and it's turning out pretty nice....

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Also using this pallet rack to build a bit lower of a table with additional shelves on top. Almost done making this area organized. Thinking of carpeting the table top....


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Sandblasted the /6 engine sheet metal

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Cleaned and mounted the /6 oil cooler....

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Reading, reading, reading...

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Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 28 2011, 10:21 AM

QUOTE
Haha, yeeeeeah about that...... she's now an ex...... Oops?


You can't "Ex" your cousin. She's the cutest. wub.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 28 2011, 05:19 PM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Mar 28 2011, 09:21 AM) *

QUOTE
Haha, yeeeeeah about that...... she's now an ex...... Oops?


You can't "Ex" your cousin. She's the cutest. wub.gif



Lol, I thought he was talking about the girl I brought to RRC headbang.gif



I can't really speak for you 'Utah folk' and your cousins though...... wub.gif

.... that being said, she is coming to RRC with me beerchug.gif Looooook out Moab! aktion035.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 28 2011, 07:08 PM

By the way...

As of today, small change of plan on that engine mount question....

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Posted by: mepstein Mar 28 2011, 07:19 PM

What are we looking at? confused24.gif

Posted by: MDG Mar 28 2011, 07:59 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 28 2011, 09:19 PM) *

What are we looking at? confused24.gif


A section of the lower firewall from a 914-6 with the factory engine mount still attached.

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Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 28 2011, 08:11 PM

use the aftermarket mount and sell the factory one and spend the money on your girl,,,,,,,hell ya.

let me know.




BTW that oil line around the back or the cooler wont work. ao 70-71 911 one will though, even though it is a soft line, and cheep.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 28 2011, 09:38 PM

Yep, factory /6 mount..... I started drilling out the spot welds, and will probably do the same on the type 4 mounts

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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Mar 28 2011, 07:11 PM) *

use the aftermarket mount and sell the factory one and spend the money on your girl,,,,,,,hell ya.

let me know.




BTW that oil line around the back or the cooler wont work. ao 70-71 911 one will though, even though it is a soft line, and cheep.



Thanks for the heads up on the oil line sixnotfour, it's on the list. As for the mount, I'm pretty sure I'm going to keep it. Kinda cool, and now I "match" my Fathers. If I had a girlfriend, I would definitely think about it idea.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 2 2011, 02:27 PM

pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif Dear Porsche Gods..... I promise never again to question the structural integrity of the stock 914/6 engine mount. Just please..... please never put me through that firewal removal process again..... amen.... hands.gif hands.gif hands.gif


It wasn't THAT hard, but still it was not fun to get that thing off the remaining firewall.... Totally worth it though....




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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 2 2011, 07:48 PM

Did a bit of an emergency thread about the Jwest linkage. I don't know if it's ever been put on a car (a /6) with the original /6 engine mount. I know I've seen it on the aftermarket ones, but not the originals....

I had to take down the 'oval' around the hole where the shift rod comes out, and I'll have to offset the bracket that holds the bushing, but I think we are in business. Instead of just 'chopping up' the oval, I think I did I nice blend....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 2 2011, 07:53 PM

My Father and I discussing how we are going to tackle this whole thing......



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Welding..... It was at this point he says, 'Check in the cab to make sure nothing is... you know.... on fire!"



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Too Far...

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Better...


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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 14 2011, 06:47 PM

Been a little lax on the updates recently. I actually TOOK A DAY OFF!!! blink.gif poke.gif yellowsleep[1].gif and snuck away with my niece/nephew and cousin to the Good Guys Car Show, pretty cool! Especially this truck that was Porsche pink!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 14 2011, 07:13 PM

The day after the car show (and the reason I missed Route 66) I had a business trip in Ohio to take, which actually turned out quite well because my friends got married!



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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 14 2011, 07:14 PM

Well,now back to important stuff!


Engine bay cosmetics.....


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Posted by: RiqueMar May 3 2011, 10:46 AM

I've been really lagging on this thread, we've been super busy at work getting a Formula1 type simulator out as well as 'researching' at the Long Beach Grand Prix. We conducted a 'test run' at a Ferrari club event for a veterans organization here in San Diego, The Warrior Foundation, which provides a transition service to veterans coming back from the Middle East. It was alot of work, but it definitely felt good!

Originally, it was a Williams type Formula1, but for this event, we added a bit of red and the charities logo, and it was transformed into an 'American Warrior' Formula1. Each of the sponsors you see on the car bought 'Sponsorship space' and all the proceeds went to the Foundation.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 3 2011, 11:11 AM

A few Long Beach Grand Prix pictures. Originally, I went with my Father and we where staying with the Ferrari Club and 458 Italia team. Unfortunatly, after the first day he got sick, so my cousin drove up and joined me for the 2 remaining days. What a great weekend!

The team was really accommodating, and we had a great view above turn 8, which is the turn between the 2nd and 3rd longest straight aways! We even got a tour of the pits, team trailer, and staging area. Thats not to say we didnt walk the track about 4 times each day!

My cousin....

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The 458 team...

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Indy....

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ALMS

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 3 2011, 02:30 PM

Now on to the important things....

Engine bay back to black. I touched up the area I was working on with Rustoleum rubberized undercoating, it's a very close match, and I think after it sets up, you wont be able to tell the difference....

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Now moving on to the engine harness. Anyone have any ideas/prior experience on how to make this as quick/painless/easy/neat as possible? There's ALOT of mismatched wires and butt connectors on this thing.... headbang.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 10 2011, 06:38 PM

Ok, so once you open the wiring diagrams, and understand what you're looking at, it's not as hard as it looks. This is my first real experience with wiring, and I'm still rolling confident. Much thanks so far to the Cap'n, SLITS, and Perry Kiehl. Almost done assigning wires, just need to do the alternator and CD Box.

I'm also going through the harness which I have completely stripped, and soldering and shrink tubing ev-ery-thing

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 10 2011, 07:00 PM

Also, I think I'll be adding this Perma-Tune box, which just so happens to also have the original mounting bracket! Opened it up earlier and all the internals look pretty good.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 10 2011, 07:04 PM

Small 'gift' from my Father....

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Posted by: Cairo94507 May 11 2011, 06:48 AM

Very nice progress and work. I like that combo-gauge too; I definitely want to do a gauge like that on my car.

OH...is that the cousin getting into 914's? If so, and even if not, we are going to need a lot more pictures of her - she is a cutie.

Posted by: Eric_Shea May 11 2011, 07:11 AM

QUOTE
is that the cousin getting into 914's?


av-943.gif You've opened up Pandora's box Enrique!

"Hey, nice build... got any more pictures of your cousin?" av-943.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 11 2011, 07:42 AM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 11 2011, 06:11 AM) *

QUOTE
is that the cousin getting into 914's?


av-943.gif You've opened up Pandora's box Enrique!

"Hey, nice build... got any more pictures of your cousin?" av-943.gif



Hey, if toting her around at 914 events gets more people to come, then I guess it's a necessary evil!

We are trying to have a 'runner' for her for RRC. It's a longshot but still a possibility as she's not doing a full on project, just something that she can clean up.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 12 2011, 08:24 AM

Alright, so this is where we are at so far with the wiring. Making a 'new alternator harness' that will be included within the engine wiring harness, like a /6....



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I'll be running these to the alternator, I just need to figure out how to run the blue wire (idiot light) to the #2 pin on the 14-pin connector.


Posted by: RiqueMar May 13 2011, 12:12 AM

Wired the alternator today. After all is said and done, if you are keeping the relay board on your /6 conversion, this is the correct way to wire the alternator (in laymen terms). I hope this helps anyone trying to do a conversion:

- The Black wire connects to the top 'DF' connector at the top of the Alternator, and goes to the left most connector, as seen in picture 2 and 3.
- The two Red wires (one thick, one medium) connect to the 'B+' connector. The thick Red wires goes to the Starter, which at the Starter connects to the battery. The thin(ner) Red wire goes to the Board as seen in picture 3.
- The Ground wire connects to the 'D-' part with one of the wires going to the board, and the others going to ground on the engine.



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Posted by: Cairo94507 May 13 2011, 07:12 AM

Enrique: Please see the thread posted re the two rolling CA chassis, a '70 and a '75 (I think) that are in great condition by Thomas J. Bliznik. I was thinking of the '70 for your cousin unless she is looking for one that is already a driver.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 13 2011, 10:15 AM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ May 13 2011, 06:12 AM) *

Enrique: Please see the thread posted re the two rolling CA chassis, a '70 and a '75 (I think) that are in great condition by Thomas J. Bliznik. I was thinking of the '70 for your cousin unless she is looking for one that is already a driver.


Hmmm, I'm not seeing the thread, is it in the classifieds?

Posted by: RiqueMar May 14 2011, 02:13 AM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ May 13 2011, 06:12 AM) *

Enrique: Please see the thread posted re the two rolling CA chassis, a '70 and a '75 (I think) that are in great condition by Thomas J. Bliznik. I was thinking of the '70 for your cousin unless she is looking for one that is already a driver.



I did see that, but we are looking for something more complete and more local. Thanks for the heads up though! It's much appreciated!

Posted by: RiqueMar May 14 2011, 02:44 AM

Buttoned up the Alternator today. I took my Dads advice, he said the Red and Grey on the fan and ring made the engine look like a fruit salad, so now they match the valve covers.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 31 2011, 05:07 PM

Little lax on the updates, but I'm still working away! Got the /6 steering wheel out of it's storage bin, disassembled it, cleaned it, and it's now on the car. Same goes for the linkage. What a b**ch to get on the car though! Mostly because;A) The splines have to line up, and B) the ridge for the bolt has to match up. Much easier with the steering wheel off, and the seat out of the car.

The way I did it was pushing thew rod in first (with both U-joints attached to each end) and hooked it to the steering rack. Then I put in the /6 steering setup. A little trickier then doing it in reverse order, but much more comfortable as your looking down into the steering mount, rather than upside-down looking up into the dash.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 31 2011, 05:12 PM

Note for those using the stick /6 motor mount with newer engines. You MUST either backdate the pulley ring (ie, find an older one) or 'shave' the current one you have. The newer ones will NOT work with the STOCK /6 mount, as they had an additional 'trench' for what I assume is a smog pump, AC, or something of the sort.

My Grandfather really likes being able to help me, as he is here with the lathe and the lower pulley wheel....



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Also note: remember to not only 'shave' the pulley so that it will fit in the motor mount, but also to shave enough so you can fit the belt inside. Almost forgot about this, which would result having to pull the engine every time I would need to change the belt.


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Posted by: MDG May 31 2011, 06:51 PM

That would be for the AC; you can do what you did or go to the dealership and get a single pulley for a non-AC car like I did for my 3.2

Then it fits just fine.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 2 2011, 12:24 PM

Few new updates later today, but for those of you who enjoyed hearing about the 'family business' I just created a Facebook page for our new division, DriveSkills.

We just launched our new racing sim, and I'd appreciate it if you would check it out!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/DriveSkills-LLC/226326380717441

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Posted by: mepstein Jun 2 2011, 06:10 PM

Enrique - Gonna be around this Sunday? Thanks, mark

Just got in to San Diego - God it's nice out here!!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 2 2011, 07:24 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jun 2 2011, 05:10 PM) *

Enrique - Gonna be around this Sunday? Thanks, mark

Just got in to San Diego - God it's nice out here!!!



Mark, just saw your message, you'll hear from me soon!

edit: misspelled 'hear'

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 7 2011, 11:42 PM

'S' Calipers installed! Again, thanks to Eric Shea!

Thinking of doing a installation thread on these (?) as there are a few changes you have to make sure to do, I can honestly say I learned alot on this portion (trimming the shields, spacing, etc)



Trimmed shields before/after....

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Checking to make sure the fitment is correct....

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Again with the hub/rotor to make sure nothing is rubbing...

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Pin, spring, pads, and clips!

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Finished!

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Posted by: VOX Jun 8 2011, 12:51 AM

hurry up and drive it already! then come visit me! and help me finish mine lol.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2011, 02:02 PM

QUOTE(VOX @ Jun 7 2011, 11:51 PM) *

hurry up and drive it already! then come visit me! and help me finish mine lol.



lol, I'm givin' her all she's got Cap'n! I jus' don't have the power!!!! smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif type.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2011, 03:13 PM

Also, forgot to mention that 051103-stupid4.gif

Had the carbs, manifolds, and linkage assembled..... and forgot to put in the isolators.... So of course, I have to take the entire assembly apart to put in the isolators and gaskets..... please learn from my mistake....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2011, 03:22 PM

Additionally, another lesson to learn from my mistakes....


I was getting a clearance issue that I didn't realize until I tried to put on my brakes. I had previously converted to 911 style suspension. Checked the bearings, all good. Tightened? Yeah, it's correct. Thrust washer? Check, got it. I was left there scratching my head until I got ahold of Eric Shea... within about 40 minutes I get a message back, and what do you know, he was right. I was missing the O-ring and spacer that you put on to the spindle FIRST, followed by the inner bearing, etc, etc.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 9 2011, 05:19 PM

Ordered a bunch of stuff from PMB Performance today, rear brake resto, rotors, lines, etc. Man do I love ordering from Eric, everything is so simple, and I swear the man has infinite patients even for questions he probably hears 30 times a day from 30 different people.


While waiting on the stuff to arrive, I've decided to tackle my front Sway bar. I'm not quite sure the brand, but I do know it's a 22mm. I've already drilled one side, and am about to set up the other.

From what I understand about sway bars so far, is that it is better to have the type that 'sandwich' the fender well; that is, having the triangular supports on the outside and in the recess below the gas tank. Unfortunately, even though my sway bar is aftermarket and 'bigger', it either didn't have the inside support plates or the PO of the 73' I pulled it off of didn't think it necessary to install them.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2011, 01:13 PM

More on the swaybar installation....


I don't like the look of having a cut hole below the gastank (like they do on the Pelican board) If your going to cut into your body, you should patch it up, and do it right, just my opinion. I know now one will ever see it, but I'll still know its there...

Took this cut a little deeper and straighter. After everything fabricated up, I'll 'box' the sheet metal back in so that everything is nice and 'pretty' again. the hardest part was getting the 'seam' portion where the spot welds are, it's very tight in there, and not the best angle for working.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 14 2011, 06:46 PM

On Friday for the last 2 hours of the day, I had my Grandfather and Uncle in the Machine Shop portion of the business was running this ignition part, sway bar plates I asked for, and setting up the tooling for the rear rotors to be drilled to 5 lug. I'm keeping the drilled hubs until I get on the road, then I'll be adding some 911 gear.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 14 2011, 06:48 PM

Finished up the front sway bar and suspension!


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 14 2011, 09:29 PM

Here's the money shot! Thanks Eric!


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Posted by: Eric_Shea Jun 14 2011, 09:51 PM

Right On! smilie_pokal.gif

Happy to have some of my goodies on your car. thumb3d.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 15 2011, 12:19 AM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Jun 14 2011, 08:51 PM) *

Right On! smilie_pokal.gif

Happy to have some of my goodies on your car. thumb3d.gif



Thanks Eric! I was working on the rear suspension today new bearings, brake lines, etc. Your videos were very helpful! I've posted the link below. short, concise, great!

http://www.pmbperformance.com/videos.html




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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 28 2011, 11:57 PM

Small vacation in Las Vegas, but I've still been working hard at the car!


Drilled the 5-lugs onto the new rotors. Thinking of offering this service if anyone is intersted? Also, call me anal, but I painted the rotors, and the rear suspension is complete.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 29 2011, 12:03 AM

Hit a small 'speedbump' on the driverside rear suspension.... Apparently, between using the torque wrench on the passenger side, and the driver side, someone else used it and uped the setting..... causing the bolts to break "SONofaB****!!" headbang.gif

CHECK YOUR SETTINGS!!!! 18 Ft/Lbs on these!



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 29 2011, 12:07 AM

Trying to stay focused for tomorrow! Engine placement!!!


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Posted by: JRust Jun 29 2011, 12:31 AM

Looking way to good the Rique dry.gif . Could you throw some dirt on that stuff or something. It's hurting my eyes icon8.gif

Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Jun 29 2011, 12:34 AM

Lookin good beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 29 2011, 08:31 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 28 2011, 11:31 PM) *

Looking way to good the Rique dry.gif . Could you throw some dirt on that stuff or something. It's hurting my eyes icon8.gif


QUOTE(PeeGreen 914 @ Jun 28 2011, 11:34 PM) *

Lookin good beerchug.gif



Thanks guys! Means alot coming from both of you! Hope you had fun at WCR! Where's the next one? Any chance it'll be closer to Meh-hee-co?!

Jamie: As for looking good, if you look closely where the bumber area is undercoated, you can see where the guys in the shop 'bumped' into it already... Not a big deal as it's just undercoating, but still. headbang.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 29 2011, 03:55 PM

And I'm back in a 914!!! smilie_pokal.gif


Just picked up this 'old thing' from the guys at European Motorsports. They did a great job with a few problems that the 3.6 engine was having!



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 3 2011, 08:57 PM

Friday, Brent (wertygrog) and I took a small break....

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As for this weekend, oil tank is in, and the brakes are hooked up Also, today I spent about 3 hours just cleaning all the dust that has accumulated. It's one of the downsides to building in the shop, with all the bondo, fiberglass and particles floating in the air. It's crazy how different the color is when it's clean! wub.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 4 2011, 04:46 PM

Getting ready for this engine to go in this week, just as soon as I get the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate kit I ordered.

I'm loving the way that this engine sheet metal and Heat Exchangers came out. I think it goes to show that not everything has to be powder-coated and that painting isn't bad, as long as you do the prep work correctly.

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Posted by: 9146986 Jul 4 2011, 11:45 PM

Looks very nice!

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jul 5 2011, 06:47 AM

Very nice progress; I can't wait to see that engine in the car and hear the video when you start it. Nice.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 5 2011, 09:12 AM

QUOTE(9146986 @ Jul 4 2011, 10:45 PM) *

Looks very nice!


QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Jul 5 2011, 05:47 AM) *

Very nice progress; I can't wait to see that engine in the car and hear the video when you start it. Nice.



Thanks guys, I'm pounding away here smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif and I'm hoping to have a video this weekend. As soon as I find a good flywheel/pressure plate/clutch package, I'll be in business and have this thing in.

All that's left after that is to finish the wiring under the dash, the gauges, and put on the hoods and glass.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 7 2011, 12:20 PM

Sheetmetal? Check! piratenanner.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 8 2011, 08:16 AM

Still waiting on the flywheel/clutch package I ordered dry.gif

Apparently, the guy I bought it off of on eBay wont ship it until he gets the check from the broker service (Moneybookers), even though that service confirmed I processed the payment on Tuesday, and here we are on Friday and it hasn't even been shipped. Nice. Asshole. jerkit.gif

Whatever. Yesterday, we where trying to look for other things to do, so we power bled the brakes and I hunted down the hard oil line that connects to the bottom of the engine.... only to find out it doesn't fit. Looks like braided lines it is....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2011, 10:40 PM

Finally got the Flywheel, Clutch, and Pressure Plate from the seller on eBay.

I can not stress this enough, but 'BUYER BEWARE" of a seller by the name of air.cooled.356.911, he is extremely rough, verbose, overbearing, and vague, trying to get you off the phone with the minimum details possible It took him 10 days to ship my product as he was 'waiting for the payment to clear'. Which I later found out by calling the payment company that it clears instantly. dry.gif

After multiple phone calls, and him finally having a 'cleared payment' (after 7 days) he agreed to ship the item.... until he claimed I had'nt paid shippign on the item that he listed as 'shipping free'. He further went on to swear that he had sent me an invoice, and when he could'nt find said invoice, he insisted that I had hacked into eBay, and deleted it from his messages, or that I was lying to him that I had it.

Eventually, after filing an eBay buyer protection case, he sent me a tracking number on Wedsnesday insisting that I send him an additional $18 for shipping after I received the item (however, he didn't ship the item until Thursday night). I later found out by looking at my online banking that he automatically charged me shipping, so whether it was free or I already paid for it, I suppose that little fact is irrelevant.

Either way, please dont make the same mistake I did, and simply don't purchase from this guy.




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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 16 2011, 10:41 PM

Sidenote: it's 'weird' to see my engine off the engine stand! It's Saturday night, time to celebrate. beer3.gif drunk.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 18 2011, 06:20 PM

It seems as though this seller is still maintaining that I owe him shipping. He has also 'insinuated' that he is sending his Son-in-Law to 'pay me a visit as he lives in my area.... To which I responded, "Will it take him 2 weeks to get here too?"

But in all seriousness, I truly did have to file a complaint against him, and insist he not contact me anymore, or I would call the Police and take it as a formal threat (I don't know who or how crazy this guy really is).

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 28 2011, 08:00 PM

Engine is in..... finally!

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Posted by: AZ914 Jul 29 2011, 07:57 AM

aktion035.gif piratenanner.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2011, 09:43 AM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Jul 29 2011, 06:57 AM) *

aktion035.gif piratenanner.gif



Thanks Jason, how's the 3.2 coming? I wanna hear all the details from you as that will be the eventual 'upgrade' for this car.


Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2011, 10:04 AM

Back tracking a little, as I promised myself I wouldn't update this until the engine was in.... So i'm going to rewind a bit and explain the process leading up to the engine actually getting in the car.....

See as I wanted to get all the components ready, I made sure to first clean the transmission. This took about 2-3 hours of hardcore scrubbing with brushes, engine cleaner, and rags. Though it still has an aged look, all the 'gunk' is removed from the transmission. Brents (wertygrog) came over the same day I was doing this and look at me in shock with the amount of filth I was covered in.

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On Monday my Dad and I effectively took most of the the day off, and finally installed the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. Compliments to this as you may have read earlier in the thread, where a new pilot bearing, new rear main seal, and cleaning of the area behind the flywheel, and in a 'while we are here' move, we ended up installing a high torque starter... why not, right?

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At this point, the engine was just about ready to go in, when we realized we had to install the Jwest shift linkage kit. Important note: If you have a stock /6 motor mount, this requires a bit of alignment and creativity.

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Posted by: eric9144 Jul 29 2011, 10:26 AM

cheer.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif cheer.gif

Getting close!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2011, 10:28 AM


With the Jwest kit installed, and the engine below the car, we almost forgot about the fan belt, it was here that caused a bit of delay.

Important part: Unfortunately for me, the stud coming out of my original alternator had only 3-4 'spacer rings' on it for mounting the belt 'pulley'. Whoever installed this previously while the engine was in the car must have had one hell of a time, because the stud was nearly stripped. YOU MUST HAVE 6 RINGS ON THE STUD AT ALL TIMES.

This setback forced me to 'update' my alternator. I had to take the entire fan component off a 3.0 SC (this had the 'newer style' stud, with an allen bolt in the center for better control), that we have sitting around, disassemble the mount, pop off the fan, remove the cone, disassemble my original, rewire the new alternator and re-assemble everything. Rather annoying when you have your engine ready to go into the car. headbang.gif

However, the silver lining of all this was that the 3.0 alternator was recently rebuilt. Nice.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2011, 02:56 PM

Finally, with the alternator installed, pulley on, and starter on, it was time for the engine to go in the car, right after a quick photo for posterity.

I made sure to put the bolt facing down, I think it's easier to access it and take off the nut if you should need to drop the engine. As for the rear mounting portion, we added new 911 style mounts.

It was actually rather easy to get the /6 in. Using the stock mount, you do not have to take off any sheet metal during your installation.

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Posted by: Socalandy Jul 29 2011, 05:38 PM

your almost ready for RRC. Looks great!!!

I still have your shirt

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 29 2011, 11:51 PM

Now that the engine is in, I think i've 'turned the corner' and the project is going to go much faster.

One of my favorite things to do on this project has been to find components of the car that look horrible, torn apart, essentially gone, and bring them back to life. Today, I concentrated on a set of Factory /6 heater flapper boxes I found in storage.

After a bath in the parts cleaner, I pulled them out to discover that while one was alright, the other was in pretty bad shape, having been welded together at one point, the lever bent, and the 'top' coming off.




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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2011, 08:28 AM

It's time to move on to 'fun stuff'! Like braided lines. I think for now, I'm going to route the oil lines almost as a stock /6, with the exception of adding the thermostat (not sure which one yet). Once I have the car on the road, I'l either add a GT style cooler, or a fan cooler near the transmission. Any opinions on either?

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Posted by: AZ914 Aug 4 2011, 09:33 AM

Looks great Rique! The up front cooler is probably the preferred method, especially if you are going to track the car. Unfortunately you need to plumb all the way up front and lose some of your front trunk. If its just a street ride, you can probably get by with the fan mounted cooler in the back. That is what I'm going to do.
If for some reason it doesn't work out, you only have a few bolt holes in your trunk to deal with.

Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Aug 4 2011, 11:30 AM

Great work so far. Keep it up beerchug.gif

Posted by: AZ914 Aug 4 2011, 11:52 AM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Aug 4 2011, 08:33 AM) *

Looks great Rique! The up front cooler is probably the preferred method, especially if you are going to track the car. Unfortunately you need to plumb all the way up front and lose some of your front trunk. If its just a street ride, you can probably get by with the fan mounted cooler in the back. That is what I'm going to do.
If for some reason it doesn't work out, you only have a few bolt holes in your trunk to deal with.


I'm quoting my own post! Thinking more about it, you have basically created a GT, which would have the cooler up front. Are you doing a cage, race seats, etc?

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2011, 01:18 PM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Aug 4 2011, 10:52 AM) *


I'm quoting my own post! Thinking more about it, you have basically created a GT, which would have the cooler up front. Are you doing a cage, race seats, etc?



I'm thinking more along the line of a 'sport' package. I mean, I have the proper upgrades to do some occasional AX and such, but it's certainly not a race car, just stuff I like that kept the originality of the car while still being 'different'.

No cage for me, but I did come across a real Konig seat for $100! Now I just need to find a twin for it, or sell it and get a nice set of seats.

My only challenge as I see it with placing the cooler up front is modifying the front valence, as I really like the look of the LE type. However, this is all in the future, as for right now, I'm just going to run the stock cooler on board the engine, as it seems to be 'safe' for engines under 3.0. Any thoughts on this? It seems to be what I keep coming back to on other peoples builds.

Posted by: AZ914 Aug 4 2011, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 4 2011, 12:18 PM) *

I'm thinking more along the line of a 'sport' package. I mean, I have the proper upgrades to do some occasional AX and such, but it's certainly not a race car, just stuff I like that kept the originality of the car while still being 'different'.

No cage for me, but I did come across a real Konig seat for $100! Now I just need to find a twin for it, or sell it and get a nice set of seats.

My only challenge as I see it with placing the cooler up front is modifying the front valence, as I really like the look of the LE type. However, this is all in the future, as for right now, I'm just going to run the stock cooler on board the engine, as it seems to be 'safe' for engines under 3.0. Any thoughts on this? It seems to be what I keep coming back to on other peoples builds.


I've heard that 2.4 and lower do not require a cooler, but I guess it really depends on where you live, how you drive, etc. Obviously you can just monitor the temps and get a cooler if it looks like you need it.

Posted by: mepstein Aug 4 2011, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 4 2011, 03:18 PM) *

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Aug 4 2011, 10:52 AM) *


I'm quoting my own post! Thinking more about it, you have basically created a GT, which would have the cooler up front. Are you doing a cage, race seats, etc?



I'm thinking more along the line of a 'sport' package. I mean, I have the proper upgrades to do some occasional AX and such, but it's certainly not a race car, just stuff I like that kept the originality of the car while still being 'different'.

No cage for me, but I did come across a real Konig seat for $100! Now I just need to find a twin for it, or sell it and get a nice set of seats.

My only challenge as I see it with placing the cooler up front is modifying the front valence, as I really like the look of the LE type. However, this is all in the future, as for right now, I'm just going to run the stock cooler on board the engine, as it seems to be 'safe' for engines under 3.0. Any thoughts on this? It seems to be what I keep coming back to on other peoples builds.


I've read up a lot on the oil cooler debate and there is no right answer for all situations. Your location, driving style, transmission ratios, shift points, city vs. highway, long hills, competition use, finances and certainly engine all come into play. Some engines run hotter than others no matter what the size. Some people rev their engines and work them harder.

My thought is to take your worst case scenario and build for that. Mine is a sunny 95 degree day, 10 mile traffic jam that is moving at 0-5 mph for 3+ hours.
It's happened to me before so that’s what I'm planning for.

To play it safe, I'll use the oil cooler on the engine, a GT style front oil cooler, GT front valance, thermostat, stock steel front bumper, GT hard lines, probably enlarge the holes behind the bumper, fiberglass GT shroud, hot air exhaust under car and probably an electric fan or 2 that kicks on manual or auto for slow moving traffic. I'll also test the oil temp sensor and gauge to make sure it's calibrated correctly.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2011, 02:41 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 4 2011, 12:46 PM) *


I've read up a lot on the oil cooler debate and there is no right answer for all situations. Your location, driving style, transmission ratios, shift points, city vs. highway, long hills, competition use, finances and certainly engine all come into play. Some engines run hotter than others no matter what the size. Some people rev their engines and work them harder.

My thought is to take your worst case scenario and build for that. Mine is a sunny 95 degree day, 10 mile traffic jam that is moving at 0-5 mph for 3+ hours.
It's happened to me before so that’s what I'm planning for.

To play it safe, I'll use the oil cooler on the engine, a GT style front oil cooler, GT front valance, thermostat, stock steel front bumper, GT hard lines, probably enlarge the holes behind the bumper, fiberglass GT shroud, hot air exhaust under car and probably an electric fan or 2 that kicks on manual or auto for slow moving traffic. I'll also test the oil temp sensor and gauge to make sure it's calibrated correctly.


The sad thing is, I'm probably just spinning my wheels thinking about alternatives, and will end up doing the front mounted cooler.

I had a similar instance last month, Mark. I was heading to Vegas, and prior to the trip I was trying to get my car done, with my fall-back being the 3.6 if the 2.9 wasn't finished. Turned out, that I ended up taking the Wagon as some friends needed a ride, but thats not the important part of the story. Somewhere North-East of Riverside, we hit traffic for about an hour, with temperatures at around 105, and I remember thinking to myself, "Wow, I'm gonna need a cooler".

I'm fairly certain that the guy who was running this engine before me (in a 911) had an additional cooler set-up, because the oil line was modified to bend around the back of the engine.


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Posted by: mepstein Aug 4 2011, 02:55 PM

My epiphany was driving up to VT and seeing a 10 mile backup in the other direction. It made me remember all the times I've been caught in a jam. Guys talk about running a 3.2 with no extra cooling but my luck doesn't work that way.

Posted by: SLITS Aug 4 2011, 04:18 PM

That oil line "bent around the back of the engine" is the stock 911 setup. Think about it!

It didn't go to a cooler .... it went to the oil tank.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2011, 05:24 PM

QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 4 2011, 03:18 PM) *

That oil line "bent around the back of the engine" is the stock 911 setup. Think about it!

It didn't go to a cooler .... it went to the oil tank.



Hmm, I always thought it went similar to a /6 on a 911, just without the bend next to the cooler. But then again, I was basing that off of the 3.2 I have on a stand here in the shop.

Posted by: SLITS Aug 4 2011, 05:38 PM

when I said think about it, I meant for you to realize that the engine installed in a 911 is opposite a /6.

I modified the line by cutting it at the top of the hoop, soldering a fitting on to run to the cooler that I have in the rear trunk. Keeps the oil line away from the heat exchangers.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2011, 06:57 PM

Now I'm confused, because I just checked on the SC outside, and the oil line is different than the one originally on my engine. I was under the impression that this was the stock setup on a 911, which is similar to a 914, only without the 90 degree bend at the end below the oil tank...

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Whereas the following picture is of the line that was connected to my engine when I got it, it bends and exits under the flywheel and has a 90 turn next to the onboard oil cooler.



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Posted by: wertygrog Aug 4 2011, 10:46 PM

Looks good! beerchug.gif

Finish that bad boy up already!! I can't wait to go for a ride. It'll motivate me to install the 2.7L in Bluetiful. beerchug.gif

Posted by: SLITS Aug 5 2011, 06:44 AM

They changed the orientation with the SC.

You want a stock 914/6 hard line? .... have one in the garage.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 5 2011, 04:20 PM

QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 5 2011, 05:44 AM) *

They changed the orientation with the SC.

You want a stock 914/6 hard line? .... have one in the garage.



I actually do have one, but I'm concerned about the line diameter, my reason being that the original /6 was a 2.0, whereas mines a 2.9, thus the conversion to braided...

Any thoughts?

And by the way.... Now that the engine is in, can I finally pop this on? I've had it for about 2-3 years!

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Posted by: SLITS Aug 5 2011, 05:38 PM

Porsche went from 18mm? to 22mm on the oil pump feed line. Thought was that the larger engine might starve for oil at higher RPMS I suppose. Most use the later size or -16 (3/4") for the feed as it is not under pressure only gravity feed and what suction the oil pump creates. I have heard that "real" racers use -22.

Mine is -16. I will be changing to 22mm stock line.

They also increased the scavenge line size to 22mm, but the fitting at the block is still the same internal size ... go figure. I run larger diameter block connector into 3.4" flex line. Scavenge line is under pressure.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 11 2011, 10:04 AM

Now the fun part..... More engine wiring.

I've installed the relay board (the bottom with a new layer of resin/gelcoat), and I've started on the engine wiring. It's alot of work, but I'm essentially creating a new harness, and I'm committed to using the same wire colors and codes with new heat shrink tubing.

I've essentially broken it up into three branches. Starting at the 12-pin connector for the engine wiring, all the wires are bundled into one harness. About 6 inches into the harness, the first 'branch' containing the oil pressure and temperature wires brakes off.

The remaining harness contains reverse lights, starter, 2 coil wires, and your idiot light, and stays that way until it reaches the sheet metal hole nearest the starter, and thus exits the starter wire, and reverse lights, we'll call this the second 'branch'

The third and final branch contains the 2 coil wires and your 'idiot light' that connects to the sensor that is centered on top of the engine. Once the 'idiot light' exits the final branch, the two coil wires run up the fan shroud, under the carb crossbar, and to the coil.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 11 2011, 10:06 AM


All thats left now is wiring the CDI box, and I've not checked on how to tackle that, any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm assuming they go mainly to the coil and are not connected to the relay board?

Posted by: eric9144 Aug 11 2011, 10:22 AM

popcorn[1].gif

So close! Can't wait until you post the video or it running!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 15 2011, 09:47 AM

Wiring, wiring, and more wiring.

This weekend, when I wasn't trying to figure out my CDI Box wiring (see my other thread here http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=139671 ) I was sitting in the cab sorting through wires. As I think I've said before, I was the dumbass that unplugged all my wires and unwound my loom during the paint and repair phase..... big mistake.

I now have to essentially sit here with my wiring harness and diagram and separate each connection into groups (tach, speedo, 12 pin connector) as well as figure how to tie in my /6 ignition switch.... fun, fun fun. headbang.gif



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In the meantime (usually at night) I've been trying to wrap my head around my CDI box wiring... It's a mess..



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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 17 2011, 09:21 AM

I'm pretty bummed.... So basically, I've been sitting in the cab for 3 days now, while it's on the lift above my Dads /6. I've decided to start from scratch as far as the wiring goes, as I keep finding myself pulling one wire, only to find it's hooked up to a tangled mess.

It's going to mean some back-tracking, as almost everything is completely hooked up and tested, but it's the right way to do it, and presents a good oportunity to run the harness correctly.... It just sucks though... **sigh**

As for now, I think the best course of action is to take it from the top, wiring all the gauges first, then to move onto to the switches and work right to left across the dashboard. After each of those is complete and tested, I'll then integrate the /6 stuff like the ignition switch and wiper motor. It's the long way of going about it, but I think in the end I'll have a clean wiring setup with everything run correctly and alot less confusing.

Since starting this approach last night, I have the Combo gauge isolated, tagged, and run nicely. Hopefully today I can get the tach and speedo done, and start moving onto to switches.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2011, 09:12 AM

Being my first 'wiring job' this is certainly trial by fire. Getting organized is half the battle. Since having updated last, everyday at three PM I head to the car and plant myself for 4-5 hours. After 'taking everything from the top' I completely disconnected all the leads leading to the board and divided everything up nice and neat in different runs; Ground wires, wires coming from front, wires coming from back, and wires that have a union that connect to the board but run front-to-back.

In my limited experience, I find it easiest to disconnect all the leads that run either simply connect to the relay board to a switch or gauge, or leads that run between gauges. Save these as well as the 12-pin leads for last and they'll be out of the way, and you don't have to worry about 20-something leads flying around and getting tangled.

I've also come to realize that it is easiest to connect all the 'simple' leads. These are the leads that have 1 connection, and either come up the center tunnel of the car, or come from the front trunk.

The goal is that once I have everything nicely organized, and positioned and connected, I'll remove the zip ties and either run safety sheathing or wire wrap.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 29 2011, 04:36 PM

I'm still hard at work wiring, but that didn't stop the 'SoCal group' from making an impromptu trip to Cars and Coffee this last weekend. And it's a good think I went too! The next night, the car along with my Dads 355 was vandalized .... We live next to a High School, and it appears school is definitely back in session.... I guess mustard is the new 'cool car award' smilie_pokal.gif

Unfortunately for me, I left the window a bit cracked, so they where able to stick the bottle nozzle just inside the car and spray. Also, I don't run a rain tray....



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Posted by: MoveQik Aug 29 2011, 04:50 PM

What dicks.....

The older I get, the more I dislike punk ass kids.

Posted by: dlee6204 Aug 29 2011, 04:58 PM

ar15.gif ar15.gif ar15.gif

Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Aug 29 2011, 05:03 PM

Why the hell would you do that confused24.gif

That sucks. Sorry to hear of the trouble sad.gif Dumb punks doing dumb things. chair.gif

Posted by: nsr-jamie Aug 29 2011, 05:12 PM

I am so sorry that happened, stupid kids!! What is that? Mustard? Can it wash out? I sure hope so.....

Posted by: Lou W Aug 29 2011, 05:22 PM

ar15.gif

Posted by: eric9144 Aug 29 2011, 05:27 PM

WTF.gif

WOW! Very bummed to hear and see...very tough to shoot them and get away with it too... ar15.gif

Hopefully no permanent damage was done--I know some of those things can eat away at finishes and leave a reminder of the fukt up antics that you were subject to.

Hopefully your dad's car is OK too, I can only imagine the $$ toll on that one...

Posted by: mojorisen914 Aug 29 2011, 05:32 PM

Dude, I would personally fuch someone up for doing that. I know all about Karma but I would definitely help Karma and speed up the process if I knew who did that.
Homey don't play that sh*t! Pay back is a mutherfucher!

Hope you find out who did it and you hang the little bast*rds up by their ovaries!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 29 2011, 05:57 PM

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Aug 29 2011, 03:50 PM) *

What dicks.....

The older I get, the more I dislike punk ass kids.


QUOTE(PeeGreen 914 @ Aug 29 2011, 04:03 PM) *

Why the hell would you do that confused24.gif

That sucks. Sorry to hear of the trouble sad.gif Dumb punks doing dumb things. chair.gif


QUOTE(nsr-jamie @ Aug 29 2011, 04:12 PM) *

I am so sorry that happened, stupid kids!! What is that? Mustard? Can it wash out? I sure hope so.....

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Aug 29 2011, 04:27 PM) *

WTF.gif

WOW! Very bummed to hear and see...very tough to shoot them and get away with it too... ar15.gif

Hopefully no permanent damage was done--I know some of those things can eat away at finishes and leave a reminder of the fukt up antics that you were subject to.

Hopefully your dad's car is OK too, I can only imagine the $$ toll on that one...


QUOTE(mojorisen914 @ Aug 29 2011, 04:32 PM) *

Dude, I would personally fuch someone up for doing that. I know all about Karma but I would definitely help Karma and speed up the process if I knew who did that.
Homey don't play that sh*t! Pay back is a mutherfucher!

Hope you find out who did it and you hang the little bast*rds up by their ovaries!


Thanks guys!

Yes, it was Mustard. The 914 got the Mustard treatment, and the Ferrari got the eggs. Unfortunately for my Dad, whoever threw the eggs got OUT of the car, stood infront of his hood, and slammed it down on the hood, cracking the clear coat and messing up the hood. Fortunately, it's the 'old car' and it's getting sold soon.

As for the 914, my main concern was the seats, as it has fabric and not vinyl centers. Other than that, it was a bitch to clean out the engine bay.... but whatever.

I guess I console myself in the thought that people who do this will never have nice things because they can't respect them... unfortunately, it's the tagline for my generation

Posted by: swood Aug 29 2011, 07:11 PM

That sucks...i just don't get it. A couple weeks ago i came out to leave for work and my truck was basted in barbeque sauce...and there was a pile of pancake batter on the rear right tire...???!!! I tried to decipher a message in that but i just couldn't.

Hope you get it cleaned up with no permanent effects. Sucks to smell like Weinerschnitzel :/

Posted by: championgt1 Aug 29 2011, 09:36 PM

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Aug 29 2011, 03:50 PM) *

What dicks.....

The older I get, the more I dislike punk ass kids.


agree.gif ar15.gif fighting19.gif

Posted by: wertygrog Aug 29 2011, 09:54 PM

Holy assholes batman! That blows. Mustard doesn't even taste good. sad.gif

Good luck on the cleanup. I have some sweet yellow plaid seats you can install in the meanwhile.

I'll be putting some rounds through my SKS this weekend if you need to relieve some frustration. ar15.gif

Posted by: '73-914kid Aug 29 2011, 10:17 PM

Damn that sucks man! So sorry to hear that..

Who's ready for a stakeout!? ar15.gif If you have issues getting the mustard out, I've had excellent luck using tide to go on white shirts from random mustard and ketchup stains...

It doesn't help that you're next to that highschool... They dont have a good reputation for anything at El Camino.. Of course I can say that after going to Rancho.... haha


Posted by: eric9144 Aug 30 2011, 08:09 AM

Oooo 914's at the gun range day!? ar15.gif ar15.gif ar15.gif

Lets...

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 30 2011, 12:42 PM

Thanks again guys.

I was able to get all of the Mustard out by letting it slightly dry, and then getting at it with a small knife, and getting the rest out with warm water. Other than that, it just sucked getting in the engine bay.

Whatever, I'm over it.

As for the project car, it's really crunch time. I want to have the car on the road in the next month, so I can have 2-3 weeks to clean-up and fine tune everything before Rennsport. I've been hard at work on wiring, and I'm trying to make additional wiring notes and translations for this conversion, as there are a few passing notes and tips, but nothing really on Paper.

The closest I really came was a set of notes Cap'n Krusty sent me, which have been pretty helpful, but other then that, there's not much in the way of something someone can pass on.

Below is an example of what I want to do for a conversion wiring diagram (albeit small), and my hope is that it will help more people in the future with their /6 conversions. I also hope to have other members involved, so that we can make it as accurate as possible.

I want to create diagrams for matching the relay baord to engine function, pin connections, /6 dahs switches, etc.


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Posted by: Thestigz06 Aug 30 2011, 02:26 PM

QUOTE('73-914kid @ Aug 29 2011, 09:17 PM) *

Damn that sucks man! So sorry to hear that..

Who's ready for a stakeout!? ar15.gif If you have issues getting the mustard out, I've had excellent luck using tide to go on white shirts from random mustard and ketchup stains...

It doesn't help that you're next to that highschool... They dont have a good reputation for anything at El Camino.. Of course I can say that after going to Rancho.... haha

agree.gif They're Pricks

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 5 2011, 12:54 PM

We got hit again, this time the Smart got spray painted. Luckily, after the incident last week, we had already put up 5 video cameras and got the whole thing on film. Additionally, they dropped a receipt from Wal-Mart showing them buying 5 dozen eggs, spray paint, masks, gloves, and mustard.

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Posted by: SirAndy Sep 5 2011, 01:04 PM

WTF.gif


Somebody doesn't like you! blink.gif

Posted by: mepstein Sep 5 2011, 01:06 PM

Way to go. Payback time. ar15.gif

Posted by: '73-914kid Sep 5 2011, 01:38 PM

I'm tellin' you Enrique.. it's time for an armed stakeout... ar15.gif

Posted by: mepstein Sep 5 2011, 04:32 PM

QUOTE('73-914kid @ Sep 5 2011, 03:38 PM) *

I'm tellin' you Enrique.. it's time for an armed stakeout... ar15.gif


I think once he gives the video to the po-po, that won't be necessary.

Posted by: KELTY360 Sep 5 2011, 04:46 PM

That is just wrong!

Posted by: roadster fan Sep 5 2011, 04:57 PM

Well,in my experience Walmart has terrific surviellance cameras and it is easy to match up sales transactions with the video, especially if you have the reciept! If they paid with a debit card even better!

Pass on the info to your friendly po-po and make sure you follow up with them to keep them motivated!

Some parents are gonna be pissed when they get that cleanup and repair BILL! Good luck!

Jim

Posted by: siverson Sep 5 2011, 11:28 PM

> WTF.gif
> Somebody doesn't like you! blink.gif

I agree! WTF?!?!

-Steve

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 6 2011, 09:31 AM

Luckily, the cops caught the guys, and here's the story....

After our cars were vandalized last week, we put up security cameras that cover the entire house, and 1 of 2 entries to our neighborhood. At about 4am, you see a lifted truck pull up and park across the street, and about 3 seconds later, an SUV pulls up. After that, you see 3-4 guys saunter over and proceed to spray paint the hell out of the Smart car. No rush at all, and they even sit around by the cars for a few minutes shooting the breeze.

After they tagged our Car, the Cops picked them up egging a house about 15 minutes later, and didn't catch on that they had been doing this and spray painting other cars. they took down their information, and released them to their parents.

Fast forward to 10am the next morning when we see the car, call the cops, and see the video. We also found a receipt from Wal-Mart from Midnight, all crumpled up, showing someone purchasing spray paint, 5 dozen eggs, masks, eggs, etc. The Cops take the receipt, the video, information, and our case number from LAST week, as it's pretty obvious from the video that they where specifically targeting us.

As of yet, the kids have only been cited for throwing eggs at cars, however, the evidence technician (CSI) has our tape, the Wal-Mart cashiers tape, and the Wal-Mart parking lot tape that show the same suspects in the same cars. Furthermore, the CSI has checked the tapes from Wal-Mart from last week, and it just so happens that the group was there as well.

So as of right now, they are getting all the evidence together and getting ready to bring a case against these guys. Turns out, anything over $400.00 damage is a Felony offense, so in the mean time, we have to gather all our receipts for a 914 interior and door respray, new panels and body work on a Smart car, a new Ferrari hood and paint, and garage door damage.

In the end, I'm glad they caught the guys, but ti's just another pain-in-the-ass to deal with.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Sep 6 2011, 09:46 PM

RiqueMar- I am so happy to hear they caught the assholes. Please take the time to document the damage thoroughly. Make sure you have some nice photos of the damage as well as the repair estimates.

Once everything is repaired forward all of those receipts (copies) to the police officer dealing with your case and be sure to put your case number on the items in the event they are misplaced.

Find out who at the District Attorney's Office is assigned the matter once charges are filed and call them personally and let them know you are wiling to cooperate in the prosecution of these assholes and ask if their is anything else they will need for a successful prosecution. If you remain vigilant about the case, they will be less likely to drop the case down to a misdemeanor to resolve it with restitution.

If you haven't already done so, seriously consider requesting a restraining order to keep these kids away from your property, 100 yards or something. Whatever their issues are with you or your family, you don't want/need them coming by your place, ever. TRO's can now be had for 10 years I believe. Inquire of the police to find out what cars these kids have so you can set your cameras to catch street traffic and the cars these kids drive should they be so stupid as to come by again. Every time they come by once a restraining order is in effect is a misdemeanor violation and judges have been know to sentence those consecutively when warranted.

I love that you installed a security system that provided evidence for the prosecution of these disrespectful, irresponsible pieces of crap.

Best wishes my friend.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 6 2011, 10:04 PM

Damn Ricky, lo siento and I'm glad they caught the guys. Now you know why Tigers eat their young. beerchug.gif I got run over one time and the cops caught the guy before I went into surgery. No shit. Those guys are amazing.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 14 2011, 09:42 AM

Thanks guys! I'm glad we caught them too, and all that stuff is over with.

As for the car, I literally have a month before Rennsport, so it's full speed ahead whenever I'm not at work, which is basically from 3pm until 9pm, and even then I'm still 'available' dry.gif

I've been working on the hard oil line for the engine. Originally, I was simply going to get a converter for the oil inlet on the bottom of the engine and run the stock /6 oil line, however, I'm concerned about oil volume, as my engine is a 2.9 where-as the stock /6 was 2.0.

After trying to find a few alternatives, and effectively getting 'blown off' by the guys at Patrick Motorsports, even after I bluntly told them, "Look, what do you recommend? Tell me, and I'll buy it....' I decided to-hell-with-it and I'm making my own. bootyshake.gif

So here we go....

My main issues regarding the hard oil lines are:
-Volume
-Adaptors
-Space limitations (due to me using stock HE's)
-Alignment (clutch cables, shift rods, etc).

At first, I thought I would simply use braided lines with a 90 or 45 degree connector, as I've seen this done, but that runs me right into the HE's and is really loose. At that point, I realized that many of the photos where I have seen this done, the author of the conversion was running headers, which give you significant more space.

The next approach was using an oil line off a 3.2 engine, as it is the correct fitting to go into the bottom of the engine, and follows a very similar routing to the stock /6. However, this again had issues, as I would have to 'ding in' the HE sheet metal about 1/2' on the left side (acceptable and still maintaining stock look) but more importantly, the tube ran right in front of the shift rod outlet, which killed that plan all-togther.


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Just before I was about to say 'screw it' and go with headers, I resolved to try a hybrid idea by cutting the bigger oil line shorter just below the chain tensioners, welding a fitting onto the end (an adaptor for braided lines) and running the braided line to a thermostat mounted on the body on the passenger side, in preparation for when I eventually put in an oil cooler. For the time being, the thermostat ( which will be located where the Fuel Pump is currently, see pictures) will have one line going into it from the oil tank, then a 'U-turn' on the other side, to redirect to the exit, where it will go into the engine.

I'm not completely finished, as I have to weld on the fitting today, however, I've cut the tube, rolled in the HE sheet metal, and mocked everything up. OFr good measure, I sandblasted and rinsed out the oil line and had it sitting overnight in the part cleaner to get rid of any metal scraps, gunk, or sand.

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Posted by: Scott Schroeder Sep 14 2011, 10:19 AM

So................... was it fun building that line? So much fun that you are just craving to build another one?
wink.gif bye1.gif biggrin.gif

Had a similar experience with PM last month. All I wanted to know was if they could build thier short hard line with a metric fitting where it meets the soft line. Tried 3 times - no call back.

I want things nice and tidy undernieth, and I am concerend about having a soft line next to the headers, or having it sag.

All joking aside, if you are interested in making another, I would love to chat with you about it.

Great work!

Posted by: mepstein Sep 14 2011, 10:23 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 5 2011, 06:20 PM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Aug 5 2011, 05:44 AM) *

They changed the orientation with the SC.

You want a stock 914/6 hard line? .... have one in the garage.



I actually do have one, but I'm concerned about the line diameter, my reason being that the original /6 was a 2.0, whereas mines a 2.9, thus the conversion to braided...

Any thoughts?

And by the way.... Now that the engine is in, can I finally pop this on? I've had it for about 2-3 years!

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I have one set aside too. smile.gif


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Posted by: mepstein Sep 14 2011, 10:36 AM

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Sep 14 2011, 12:19 PM) *

So................... was it fun building that line? So much fun that you are just craving to build another one?
wink.gif bye1.gif biggrin.gif

Had a similar experience with PM last month. All I wanted to know was if they could build thier short hard line with a metric fitting where it meets the soft line. Tried 3 times - no call back.

I want things nice and tidy undernieth, and I am concerend about having a soft line next to the headers, or having it sag.

All joking aside, if you are interested in making another, I would love to chat with you about it.

Great work!


Here's a PMS 914-6 oil line. It was listed for $38 on ebay so I bought it. I think it was supposed to be $138. I think it could be made locally. I've called PMS before and Jim Patrick called back and sent info I asked for. Seemed very nice and patient with me on the phone.

Still wondering if the stock 914-6 hardline will work with a 3.2? Since the Cararra line is bigger, I'm thinking not but I have heard no real world experience or wisdom...


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Posted by: Scott Schroeder Sep 14 2011, 10:56 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 14 2011, 08:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Sep 14 2011, 12:19 PM) *

So................... was it fun building that line? So much fun that you are just craving to build another one?
wink.gif bye1.gif biggrin.gif

Had a similar experience with PM last month. All I wanted to know was if they could build thier short hard line with a metric fitting where it meets the soft line. Tried 3 times - no call back.

I want things nice and tidy undernieth, and I am concerend about having a soft line next to the headers, or having it sag.

All joking aside, if you are interested in making another, I would love to chat with you about it.

Great work!


Here's a PMS 914-6 oil line. It was listed for $38 on ebay so I bought it. I think it was supposed to be $138. I think it could be made locally. I've called PMS before and Jim Patrick called back and sent info I asked for. Seemed very nice and patient with me on the phone.

Still wondering if the stock 914-6 hardline will work with a 3.2? Since the Cararra line is bigger, I'm thinking not but I have heard no real world experience or wisdom...



Wanna double your money? biggrin.gif

Posted by: mepstein Sep 14 2011, 11:07 AM

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Sep 14 2011, 12:56 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 14 2011, 08:36 AM) *

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Sep 14 2011, 12:19 PM) *

So................... was it fun building that line? So much fun that you are just craving to build another one?
wink.gif bye1.gif biggrin.gif

Had a similar experience with PM last month. All I wanted to know was if they could build thier short hard line with a metric fitting where it meets the soft line. Tried 3 times - no call back.

I want things nice and tidy undernieth, and I am concerend about having a soft line next to the headers, or having it sag.

All joking aside, if you are interested in making another, I would love to chat with you about it.

Great work!


Here's a PMS 914-6 oil line. It was listed for $38 on ebay so I bought it. I think it was supposed to be $138. I think it could be made locally. I've called PMS before and Jim Patrick called back and sent info I asked for. Seemed very nice and patient with me on the phone.

Still wondering if the stock 914-6 hardline will work with a 3.2? Since the Cararra line is bigger, I'm thinking not but I have heard no real world experience or wisdom...



Wanna double your money? biggrin.gif


It's 50/50 that it will go on my car but I bet you can buy the 911 line on pelican (or half a dozen porsche salvage yards) for $25 and get whatever steel fitting you want welded on. It's a pretty heavy guage steel pipe so welding should be easy.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 14 2011, 01:31 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 14 2011, 09:36 AM) *


Still wondering if the stock 914-6 hardline will work with a 3.2? Since the Cararra line is bigger, I'm thinking not but I have heard no real world experience or wisdom...




I'm going to quote my Dad on this one, as we had this same conversation last week while standing under my car, and basically sums up my decision to go with the Carrera oil line...

Me: Look, the oil lines don't have to be 18mm, just 16. There's people that have done the exact same thing, and it works!
My Father: I would agree with you except that it's Germans that built this. If it were Italians, I'de say, "Yeah, okay, maybe" But with Germans, they did it for a reason, so just go with it.

smilie_flagge6.gif

I seriously considered the same thing, as was simply looking for an adaptor, as I've heard the same thing in regards to people using the stock /6 lines. However, the oil line I took off my engine originally (that it originally ran with) and this modified one are the same diameter, I guess I'm channeling the emotion of, "if isn't broken, don't fix it."

Posted by: mepstein Sep 14 2011, 01:43 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Sep 14 2011, 03:31 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 14 2011, 09:36 AM) *


Still wondering if the stock 914-6 hardline will work with a 3.2? Since the Cararra line is bigger, I'm thinking not but I have heard no real world experience or wisdom...




I'm going to quote my Dad on this one, as we had this same conversation last week while standing under my car, and basically sums up my decision to go with the Carrera oil line...

Me: Look, the oil lines don't have to be 18mm, just 16. There's people that have done the exact same thing, and it works!
My Father: I would agree with you except that it's Germans that built this. If it were Italians, I'de say, "Yeah, okay, maybe" But with Germans, they did it for a reason, so just go with it.

smilie_flagge6.gif

I seriously considered the same thing, as was simply looking for an adaptor, as I've heard the same thing in regards to people using the stock /6 lines. However, the oil line I took off my engine originally (that it originally ran with) and this modified one are the same diameter, I guess I'm channeling the emotion of, "if isn't broken, don't fix it."


I'll buy in to your dad's line of thinking. Just remind him of that little orange 914-6 that he used to love.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 14 2011, 01:44 PM

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Sep 14 2011, 09:19 AM) *

So................... was it fun building that line? So much fun that you are just craving to build another one?
wink.gif bye1.gif biggrin.gif

Had a similar experience with PM last month. All I wanted to know was if they could build thier short hard line with a metric fitting where it meets the soft line. Tried 3 times - no call back.

I want things nice and tidy undernieth, and I am concerend about having a soft line next to the headers, or having it sag.

All joking aside, if you are interested in making another, I would love to chat with you about it.

Great work!


It seems rather straight forward, and I should be finishing this up between now and Friday. I'm going to be documenting the whole thing as I want to make sure I have the whole process down, so yeah, I might consider doing another.

Would you be running a thermostat too?

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 14 2011, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 14 2011, 12:43 PM) *


I'll buy in to your dad's line of thinking. Just remind him of that little orange 914-6 that he used to love.


He's on it, I assure you, we are just waiting for the mechanic to finish the engine.

He's actually seen how much I like doing a progress thread, and did the same with a conversion he did on his 360.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 15 2011, 09:02 AM

So, continuing on with my oil lines, I've finally got the fitting. After some final adjustments and cuts, all that was required was to widen the mouth a bit on the mill, and then attach the male end to the hard line. I've used a short piece of the braided hose to make a long 90 degree turn into the thermostat, which I'm mounting later today, as soon as the bracket is complete.

In hindsight, I wish I would have been able to bend the hard line about 5-10 degrees to the right after the bend drops down. Not an issue really, just more an observation and preference for clearing.





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Posted by: eric9144 Sep 15 2011, 09:11 AM

Ahh getting so close!! piratenanner.gif

Posted by: AZ914 Sep 15 2011, 09:44 AM

Nice! I'm using that hard stub line as well, I think mine runs a little closer to the firewall (flex hose is shorter). It should work great.

Dude, need to take that 'vandalized again' tag off of your title.. I keep thinking 'Oh NO!'

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 15 2011, 11:36 AM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Sep 15 2011, 08:44 AM) *

Nice! I'm using that hard stub line as well, I think mine runs a little closer to the firewall (flex hose is shorter). It should work great.

Dude, need to take that 'vandalized again' tag off of your title.. I keep thinking 'Oh NO!'



Lol, will do! Now I just have to do the lines from the tank to the thermostat, and from the engine cooler to the tank.

The fittings for each are the largest of the problems, as I'de like to eliminate the original hoses. Seeing as how I'm not using the hardline, why split up the 'set' of hoses and hardlines as they are original?

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 23 2011, 09:12 AM

Still pluggin' along! Lots to do in the next 3 weeks!

Relocated the fuel pump up to the front after I took the measurements for the access hole on a 76'. I hear this is what all the cool kids are doing these days....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 23 2011, 09:13 AM

As for the oil lines, I took a trip to Parker, and had them make this for me. I thought to myself, 'Why am I trying to re-invent the wheel when I can just copy it?' What I've done here, is retained the same size hose and factory fittings on one end, however, on the other end, it's a male input to a -12 fitting, allowing me to standardize the entire oil system to the same connections and fittings, rather than mix old with new and save some of these valuable /6 parts.

In conclusion, I'll essentially have a stock looking oil system (minus the hardline because of the oil cooler) but with newer/wider hoses and 'modern' connections. I'm thinking about doing a 'oil line kit' anyone interested? Anyone? Bueller?

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 10:40 AM

Long time no update, everybody. Last update, I was trying to get my car ready for Rennsport, in short, that didn't happen. I ended up taking the 3.6, and man, what a trip. As much as I like carbs and 'old school' equipment, there's something to be said about the 3.2/3.6 engines.

For those of you interested, I've had to delay the project a bit, due to travelling alot. About 24 hours after returning from Rennsport, I was on a flight to Panama for a week for a check up of our systems down there, and upon returning, I was headed directly to Las Vegas for SEMA just to walk the show and make an appearance, what a huge event! Parellel to all that, we've finally begun to launch our Racing Simulator line, which I'm looking forward to very much (can anyone say 914-6 GT Racing Sim???). We've already shipped three units to Spain, and are opening next week!

For now, I'm looking forward to taking it easy for a few weeks, and hopefully I'll be able to stay put in San Diego through the holidays...

A few pictures of Rennsport....

Brent 'Wertygrog' outside LA on the way up to the event (Thursday)
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Our awful scenery for the drive....
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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 10:44 AM

Rennsport, Day 1. Man were there alot of cars, every Porsche you could think of, and then some!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:10 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:12 PM

After touring around the Paddock and looking at all the great cars, we found an awesome spot on the Corkscrew and had our own little, 'Moment of Zen" for the day.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:19 PM

Day 1 was capped off with a round (or 4 rounds for that matter) though the 17-Mile Drive. We found other Porsches, Starfish, Sunsets, and Cougars!


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:32 PM

With day one in the bag after many hours of Porsche-philing, and a few more involving Beer beer3.gif beerchug.gif drunk.gif (see British Pub). It was time for day two, which involved the actual race involving 914-6's, the Eiffel Cup. Of course the 914's won.

After the race and days festivities, we had a great dinner with fellow World members in Downtown Monterey. Sidenote: Sorry for the 'Prison Pose' on my part, I'm half Mexican, and thus incapable of smiling in a photo....

Needless to say, we eventually wound up back at said pub, this time, there was alot more Female companionship.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:35 PM

With day one in the bag after many hours of Porsche-philing, and a few more involving Beer beer3.gif beerchug.gif drunk.gif (see British Pub). It was time for day two, which involved the actual race involving 914-6's, the Eiffel Cup. Of course the 914's won.

After the race and days festivities, we had a great dinner with fellow World members in Downtown Monterey. Sidenote: Sorry for the 'Prison Pose' on my part, I'm half Mexican, and thus incapable of smiling in a photo....

Needless to say, we eventually wound up back at said pub, this time, there was alot more Female companionship. And just between the World members, Brent and I may or may not have gotten every once else except us completely plastered. Cheers! beerchug.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 01:49 PM

All in all, it was a great weekend, and certainly one for the books. I'll be sure to be at the next Rennsport Reunion, no matter where it is!

I had a blast, and was very excited to meet-up with all the members, Eric Shea, Ed Arango, Dave Kawashima, Sixnotfour, Paul (pt_700), GeorgeRud, and everyone else I'm forgetting to mention!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 02:24 PM

With that out of the way, back to the 'Never-Ending Project' now that we are on page 30 of this Progress Thread.....

Last we left off, I was finishing off the oil lines, and now I've moved onto the CDI box, Exhaust, and Fuel system. I've purchased a set of SS fuel lines, and will be adapting male -6 fittings to the end of each, with braided lines between each of the hard lines...

As far as exhaust goes, I finally produced a set of SS 'spacers' to make up for the difference in exhaust systems between the 911 SSI's and the stock /6 exhaust. A word to the wise, make sure to use thread compound as those nuts/barrel nuts will be Hell to get off.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 18 2011, 02:27 PM

In reference to the CDI box, I'll be mounting a Permatune unit in the stock location for the /6 (which is the location for the FI unit in a /4). I've fabbed up a nice unit because, unfortunatly, I can't find the original /6 part that I have....

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Posted by: pt_700 Nov 18 2011, 03:18 PM

great pics from you rennsport adventure, thanks for posting!

i'm still pinching myself (not in that way!) trying to convince it wasn't just a dream.

great meeting some of the so-cal contingent!

next time, we'll need to come up with a silly t-shirt or something. i'm sure i was passing by fellow teeners all day and not realizing it...

Posted by: EdArango Nov 18 2011, 05:53 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Nov 18 2011, 11:49 AM) *

All in all, it was a great weekend, and certainly one for the books. I'll be sure to be at the next Rennsport Reunion, no matter where it is!

I had a blast, and was very excited to meet-up with all the members, Eric Shea, Ed Arango, Dave Kawashima, Sixnotfour, Paul (pt_700), GeorgeRud, and everyone else I'm forgetting to mention!


Nice shout out E!

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 20 2011, 05:39 PM

Working through the Sunday, as I try to tear myself away from the San Diego/Chicago game going on. Trying to clean things up a little bit; Mounted the CDI Box with a fresh set of nuts/bolts and the plate with a nice coating on it. As for wires, I'm doing my best to subtly color code the major wire 'arteries'....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 25 2011, 10:56 AM

Ok, small update and a 'don't make my mistake' advisement for anyone reading this, in reference to the heating system.

In post-1974 engines, the heating system is a tad bit different in means of flow. For those of you running headers, this post really doesn't apply; slap some air block off plates, and you're set. For those of you that are a wuss like me, and need heat even here in SoCal, read on.

Unless you fab up a sort of warm air guide on each side of you're fiberglass shroud, you'll need to find a set of early warm-air guides (atleast in cases similar to mine, where you're running a post-74 engine, and stock /6 heat exchangers). If you're handy and confident (get it handy and confident? jerkit.gif ) you can probably easily adapt the drivers side 911 block off plate with a 90 degree tube to match the left-side heat exchanger. All thats required is to drill a hole, and weld in the bended tube. However, the passenger side is a bit more tricky, as it came with a plastic warm air guide, and fabing up a block off plate may prove difficult as the distributer is right infront of said outlet. Luckily, the early style block off plate bolts right on. They can be had over at Pelican Parts, however, it's a bit pricey ($90), especially for us young-ones who are fiscally impaired at the moment. Should you need one, I recommend posting a WTB in the classified here or over at Pelican in the 911 section.

I've posted pictures below of the differences between early and late warm air outlets, as you can see, the hole diameter is a bit larger on the later style...

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 25 2011, 09:24 PM

Had a bit of free time today, stopped by the storage area to check out the accelerator cable situation on a /6, and happend to find a bellcrank! Although I think it's to a 911, I'm fairly certain I can cut and readjust the angle.

/6 gurus: Do I need the small drop-down bar that I see bolted to the transmission just above the clutch pulley?


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 26 2011, 04:39 PM

icon_bump.gif for bellcrank and accelerator questions; it looks as though the one I found yesterday has an angle just abit more the 90 degrees, while a 911 one is about or less than 90 degrees, could I have ACTUALLY have found one of the parts I need?! Also, I see that on a /6, the bellcrank stud is drilled into the Intermediate plate, however my side shift does'nt have a spot for this, can I drill it anyway?

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 9 2011, 10:01 AM

Been a little bit of time, but I'm finally getting in some of the stuff that I needed to finish the engine and get a test run going....

Much to the constant goading of Brent (wertygrog) I finally bought a CB rotary fuel pump (about $70) after everything is said and done. This weekend, I'll be relocating it to the front trunk, and running a new set of SS Fuel lines (if I can ever figure out how to get them into the tunnel.

Also, I've purchased an older set of warm air guides. I want to use the stock set-up as it was in the real /6's. They are a little rough, but nothing a little sandblasting, shaping, and coating wont fix....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 10 2012, 05:52 PM

Slight change of plans..... again. Thanks to my Father, my end of the year bonus is the 3.6 engine/drivetrain out of the black car! With the condition that I 'actually get that thing on the road' aktion035.gif

Currently reading multiple progress threads; SirAndys, PRS914-6, Marv's3.6six, etc I think I might have my homework cut out for me. Even though the black car is done, and it's mostly a matter of bringing equipment over, there are still a few things that need to be addressed on it. So far as I can think, I need to...

- Upgrade the brakes (alot, the black car has a large problem stopping)
- Address the oil lines (I don't like feeling them near the dead pedal)
- Electrical gremlins
- Transmission issues


It's intimidating, but I'm excited! Any and all advice is really appreciated right now!

Posted by: eric9144 Jan 10 2012, 05:54 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 10 2012, 03:52 PM) *

Slight change of plans..... again. Thanks to my Father, my end of the year bonus is the 3.6 engine/drivetrain out of the black car! With the condition that I 'actually get that thing on the road' aktion035.gif


So what's going into the black car? Don't say mustard happy11.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2012, 12:29 AM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Jan 10 2012, 03:54 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 10 2012, 03:52 PM) *

Slight change of plans..... again. Thanks to my Father, my end of the year bonus is the 3.6 engine/drivetrain out of the black car! With the condition that I 'actually get that thing on the road' aktion035.gif


So what's going into the black car? Don't say mustard happy11.gif



Maaaaybe my 2.9? Or if I come across a 'ready' 2.0 /4? Not quite sure yet. It's all set up for a /6, it's just the body and original conversion work isn't 100% there.... And it needs the flares for the tire, it's too much on a narrow body.

I'm starting to get the feeling you did the mustard, Eric.... I'm watchin' you. shades.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 16 2012, 07:05 PM

Ok, so here we go with 'Projekt 3.6'. For the last week or so, I've been gathering up information, reading conversion threads, and trying to get a whole bead on how I'm going to tackle this thing.

I really, really hope to have this done for http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=162729 and drive it out there!

So far, this is how the black car sits right now. I'm doing my best to document everything from pulling out my 2.9 to putting in the 3.6. Although the car and work is a little rough around the edges, the logic and the implementation is pretty well executed. A little clean up, powder coat and some organization, and I think this will look great in my car!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 16 2012, 07:08 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 16 2012, 07:21 PM

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That's about it for beginning pictures. I'm really excited to start this project, and cannot wait to hopefully someday get it on the road.

I know that I haven't yet completed it yet, but I'de like to thank the likes of Joe and Series9 and Eric Shea for their initial help thus far. Without any correspondence from either of them, I'de still be lost in questions in everything from brakes to transmissions. Furthermore, others such as Andy, PRS914-6 and Marv's3.6six who have already embarked on the 3.6 conversion, reading your threads helps alot, thanks for documenting so much!

Posted by: JmuRiz Jan 16 2012, 08:55 PM

What's the story on that oil tank in the front of the black car?

It's kindda cool, how/where is it filtered?

Some really cool parts on that car!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2012, 12:16 AM

QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Jan 16 2012, 06:55 PM) *

What's the story on that oil tank in the front of the black car?

It's kindda cool, how/where is it filtered?

Some really cool parts on that car!



Car was used very much for AutoX, if I remember correctly, I believe having the tank up front freed up engine bay space for hoses, and acted as a bit of weight distribution.

The oil cooler setup is awesome, the only thing I do not like is that the oil lines run through the drivers dead pedal like the GT's, I'm going to try to work around that. Other than that, it's a great setup and never gets too hot, and I've been in Vegas/Utah in August as well as at Rennsport in traffic on a hill, awesome setup. Even has a mech to disable the system in a crash!

Thanks Nathan! Can't wait to dig in!

Posted by: JmuRiz Jan 17 2012, 09:38 AM

Good to know it doesn't get hot, always a plus.

If you find the name/size of the tank let me know. I have a full Patrick Motorsports oil-tank setup I have yet to install, but if I can make something work for less $$ I'd give it a try.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2012, 11:28 AM

QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Jan 17 2012, 07:38 AM) *

Good to know it doesn't get hot, always a plus.

If you find the name/size of the tank let me know. I have a full Patrick Motorsports oil-tank setup I have yet to install, but if I can make something work for less $$ I'd give it a try.



I'll let you know in the coming weeks. If your interested, I'de rather see it go to someone who could use it rather than it collect dust. I'm fairly certain it's custom, so no name/size reference here. I already have a factory tank installed with the holes cut, otherwise I'de be using it, it's a very good system, I just don't like feeling the oil lines beneath my foot.

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Posted by: JmuRiz Jan 17 2012, 01:40 PM

Sure thing, let me know when you get to that point in your project. I'd probably need a diagram on what hoses go where too...not quite a stock-looking line setup, haha.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 25 2012, 01:12 AM

I'm jumping into this project with both feet!

Took off both the front and rear trunk lids and deck lids today, as to better access everything. Man is it easier to work like that, and I don't have to worry about any paint scratches and such!



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Jumping right into it, it seems to me that the intake was flipped upside-down, and I'm not sure why. It looks as though it would fit the original way, and the way it sits now, it is loose and incorrect, as it looks like it should be bolted to the manifold by a bracket or directly, I believe how i have it positioned below is the correct way. Should I need to, for space management, I think i can also flip around the injection system, but I'll have to look more into that.



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My main concern are the unfinished items with the engine, such as the oil/fuel lines that are not a single piece, the extra/unkept wiring with leads that are just hanging out, and the (what seems to be) lengthened tube that leads to the air intake.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 25 2012, 01:14 AM

Regarding the air intake, is it possible that the lengthened tube is causing the engine to run rich?



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 26 2012, 12:23 AM

Continued work on the car today, trying to completely understand a few things, and I'm a bit stuck on a few items, such as oil breathers. Currently, the car has two oil breathers, one near the oil tank in the front, and one where the battery would normally be, that is connected to (what I believe to be) the 'puke' reservoir, and it is the end of the line as far as oil is concerned as the system ends there

If I can, I'de like to eliminate one of these. In the first photo, you can see the breather, and in the second, you can see the reservoir I'm referring to just above where the relay board would be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



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It's obviously very good quality, and I think from Patrick Motorsports, but do I need this 2nd breather? I drained it today, and it seems that there wasn't that much. If I do keep it, you better believe the fittings will be changed to AN, as right now, it was only hose with clamps over the plumbing thread blink.gif

Posted by: oldschool Jan 26 2012, 03:13 AM

Looks very cool dude.....u most be 1/2 Mexican .....I'm Mexican Jew. blink.gif


Posted by: SLITS Jan 26 2012, 08:09 AM

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.

Posted by: JmuRiz Jan 26 2012, 09:21 AM

Someone wiser than me would have to say weather it's needed to have a breather/catch-can at the front (with the oil tank) AND the back (with the engine).

PS: Keep me in the loop when/if you want to get rid of the tank and/or one of the breather/catch-cans biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 26 2012, 09:51 AM

QUOTE(SLITS @ Jan 26 2012, 06:09 AM) *

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.


Awesome Ron, I will be running a stock /6 tank, so I'm going to do exactly that. Connect the line from the center of the engine to the stock tank, and then the other to one of the breathers. Essentially, if I can eliminate one of the three breathers, I'm very happy. Now, it still remains to be seen if all this can be done, because it all depends on whether or not I can get rid of the modified tank up front.

Furthermore, I'm not sure what the blue canister with the silver top in this photo is? It does have a lead to it, maybe a sensor of some kind?

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Posted by: AZ914 Jan 26 2012, 03:47 PM

Yeah, what Ron said. I have the stock tank location and no external breathers on my 3.2. It just vents to the intake.

Posted by: SLITS Jan 26 2012, 05:21 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 26 2012, 07:51 AM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Jan 26 2012, 06:09 AM) *

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.


Awesome Ron, I will be running a stock /6 tank, so I'm going to do exactly that. Connect the line from the center of the engine to the stock tank, and then the other to one of the breathers. Essentially, if I can eliminate one of the three breathers, I'm very happy. Now, it still remains to be seen if all this can be done, because it all depends on whether or not I can get rid of the modified tank up front.

Furthermore, I'm not sure what the blue canister with the silver top in this photo is? It does have a lead to it, maybe a sensor of some kind?

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Trying seeing if there is a name on it. If it's Oberg ... it's a micro-screen filter with warning light.

In either case I can see it gets power and is grounded.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 27 2012, 12:57 AM

Thanks Ron! It really was a help! I actually removed that 2nd breahter above where the relay board would be and it's empty... huh.gif I'm hoping to have as much space as I can in the engine bay area to keep it neat and organized should I have to work on something in there.

Continuing on with the progress (I'm trying to get in a few hours each day), I've moved the two cars next to one another, and I'm preparing to start taking components off for wrinkle black powder coat next week; sheet metal, a few plates that I plan to fab up to organize all the electronics, etc.


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As for today, my Father and I lifted up the car to try to resolve the shifting issue the 915 had before, and actually fixed it successfully! And by 'We fixed it' I mean I sat in the car and went through the gears as my Father actually addressed the problem. slap.gif


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While under the car, I discovered it is actually equipped with Koni adjustables in the rear, so I may bring them over to my car as well.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 28 2012, 01:43 AM

I'm not too familiar with FI systems and I always worry about fuel hose, especially with a system of this magnitude.

I drained the fuel today, and was able to take out the tank, and decide where I'm going to put the fuel pump. Does this fuel hose look good to everyone? I also have a set of Tangerine Racing SS lines, but I'll need to check to make sure the diameters are the same, wouldn't want to starve the engine of fuel.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 29 2012, 11:11 AM

I was able to stay late yesterday and get the car on the 2 post lift we have at our other shop! We had to push it across to the other building with a Dually (who says big ugly bumpers aren't good for anything?) but man, what an easier way to work on the car! This is the first time I've really gotten under the thing to check everything out!

I was able to shut off my phone for a few hours and just work on the car. I think I made a rather big impact, because I got the entire exhaust off, the shift linkage, and started cleaning. Getting ready to head out now, and I'de like to get the engine drained of oil today, and drop everything so I can take off the bits that I'm sending to powder coat.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 29 2012, 02:08 PM

Currently draining the oil; note to self, there is ALOT of oil! Lol.

Quick question for you daily drivers/occasional AX guys, I have what looks to be solid mounts on the trans, should I keep them? Or should I go the route of more conventional mounts?


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 29 2012, 07:28 PM

Engine is out! It came with a few 'surprises' too! smilie_pokal.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 31 2012, 10:24 AM

Cleaning.... cleaning..... cleaning..... Trying to get this thing ready for RRC, I spent about 6 hours last night just scrubbing the gunk off the engine, trans, and sheet metal. At one point, I got 'bored' a started cleaning only half the transmission just to see the difference...

barf.gif



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 31 2012, 10:26 AM

A question for you later engine guys, can I powder coat the valve/exhaust covers?


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Posted by: mepstein Jan 31 2012, 12:38 PM

Are you using heat exchangers?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 31 2012, 01:38 PM

After market, but yes. The HE's I'm using were on there before.

Posted by: mepstein Jan 31 2012, 06:36 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 31 2012, 02:38 PM) *

After market, but yes. The HE's I'm using were on there before.


Watcha doing with the ones from the other six?

Check out post #52. April 20th is coming up......again biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2012, 10:50 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 31 2012, 04:36 PM) *


Watcha doing with the ones from the other six?

Check out post #52. April 20th is coming up......again biggrin.gif


Oooooh, I see what you're getting at, idea.gif I'll see, they may go on the old man's /6, I should know within the month.




I'm been plugging away at the 3.6 project.... wires, wires, and more wires. Although everything on the car worked, I think the wiring and harnesses need a bit of work when it comes to running and routing them. I'll need to replace a bit of this 'Boat Cable' as well... oh, the things you find in a 914..... blink.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2012, 10:53 AM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2012, 10:56 AM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 3 2012, 07:56 PM

Friday night and where am I?

Bar? No

Strip club? .... No

Date? .... Not even close

Cleaning these babies.... Route 66 better be worth it....



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Posted by: JmuRiz Feb 4 2012, 05:12 PM

They look great all cleaned up!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 4 2012, 09:11 PM

Thanks Nathan! beerchug.gif

I'm just about done pulling everything from the donor car, I'de like to get it off the lift tomorrow (Pre-Super Bowl) and get my car on it to start implementing everything.

Today was D-Day for the Oil System, Oil Cooler, and Fuel System. Gutted it all...



Also found a nice little surprise in the brake department....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 4 2012, 09:14 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 6 2012, 12:51 PM

Pulled all the gauges yesterday.... blink.gif There are alot of wires cut.... alot. Thinking of buying the tech guide off the Pelican site, any input?

Posted by: MoveQik Feb 6 2012, 03:16 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 3 2012, 06:56 PM) *


Cleaning these babies.... Route 66 better be worth it....


It'll be worth it but you won't need no stinking heat.

Oh and....take the Rolex off when working on the car. poke.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 6 2012, 05:41 PM

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Feb 6 2012, 01:16 PM) *

It'll be worth it but you won't need no stinking heat.

Oh and....take the Rolex off when working on the car. poke.gif



Right, I have to keep it shiny for our little Havasu boat adventure. beerchug.gif

I hope you liked my photo rendition!

Posted by: MoveQik Feb 6 2012, 08:20 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 6 2012, 04:41 PM) *

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Feb 6 2012, 01:16 PM) *

It'll be worth it but you won't need no stinking heat.

Oh and....take the Rolex off when working on the car. poke.gif



Right, I have to keep it shiny for our little Havasu boat adventure. beerchug.gif

I hope you liked my photo rendition!

I gave it a 10. I laughed. I cried. It had it all!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 9 2012, 12:43 PM

I've just purchased the GT style fiberglass cover. I'm sort of concerned with the idea of the Fuel pump bolted to that metal shroud, let alone all those wires, fuel, and oil in one place in the event of a crash. I know it has the cutoff switch, but that only stops the pump, it does nothing for electricity or gas spilling out!

I'm going to see if I can modify it to add in the fan w/ the thermostat or if I can find one that fits inside.

Anyone done this? I see some of the other 3.6 guys with just the cooler confused24.gif

. Living in SoCal, I'm paranoid about being in traffic in LA in summer. The current setup work beautifully, I hope I can keep it THAT cool.


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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 9 2012, 02:02 PM

Do a search for member East Coaster and his fan setup. he added three (I think) small fans at the inlet to the cooler. You could also mount a square fan on the floor (where your cutout or louvres would be) to pull air thru. As long as it fits under the shroud that is!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 10 2012, 03:02 PM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Feb 9 2012, 12:02 PM) *

Do a search for member East Coaster and his fan setup. he added three (I think) small fans at the inlet to the cooler. You could also mount a square fan on the floor (where your cutout or louvres would be) to pull air thru. As long as it fits under the shroud that is!


Good to know Jason, thanks! I'm going to see what I can up with this shroud, and should I need to, I can modify it to accommodate a fan. I'm not too bent on the GT look-alike, so as long as I have the floor pattern,from the one off eBay, I think I can pull it off.

I have a fiberglass guy in house thats awesome with modeling (see below), so maybe I'll come up with my own mold if enough people are interested confused24.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 10 2012, 03:05 PM

As for now as I wait for parts to come in, I've been trying to salvage these brakes! Are they overkill? Probably. But they look pretty badass...



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Posted by: JmuRiz Feb 10 2012, 03:55 PM

With that much hp behind you, I don't think they're overkill!

Posted by: JRust Feb 10 2012, 05:01 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 10 2012, 01:05 PM) *

As for now as I wait for parts to come in, I've been trying to salvage these brakes! Are they overkill? Probably. But they look pretty badass...

I've got those on the front of my v8 conversion. Love the setup & they don't feel like overkill to me biggrin.gif . I have a spare set of 4 of them for backups. Eric says they are damn near throwaway's when they need rebuilt. The parts alone make them not worth it. He also says they hardly need rebuilt. So clean them up & run them piratenanner.gif

Better get your ass in gear if it's going to be ready for Route 66 evilgrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 10 2012, 11:09 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 10 2012, 03:01 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 10 2012, 01:05 PM) *

As for now as I wait for parts to come in, I've been trying to salvage these brakes! Are they overkill? Probably. But they look pretty badass...

I've got those on the front of my v8 conversion. Love the setup & they don't feel like overkill to me biggrin.gif . I have a spare set of 4 of them for backups. Eric says they are damn near throwaway's when they need rebuilt. The parts alone make them not worth it. He also says they hardly need rebuilt. So clean them up & run them piratenanner.gif

Better get your ass in gear if it's going to be ready for Route 66 evilgrin.gif


Thats good to hear! .... Eric told me the same thing, so I'm hoping they'll work!

I'm really trying to get this done for Route 66, I've been putting in atleast 3 hours a day Mon-Fri, and from 10-8 on weekends, it's just alot of work to get it to where I want it to be. smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif

Tomorrow, I'm rebuilding the rear suspension that is sitting on the black car, so that it can go onto my car, the bearings are simply shot!

I'de really like to have my car on the lift by the end of day Sunday, ready to put parts on, and the 3.6 IN the car by the end of next week!

Posted by: AZ914 Feb 10 2012, 11:27 PM

GIT ER DONE!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 11 2012, 08:39 PM

Removed the suspension and hubs from the black car today. Since I'm removing/installing bearings this weekend, I ordered a second set, and figured I'll have a set of trailing arms on hand, or sell them, whatever. I'll probably end up using my same arms as they are painted/reinforced and have a new set of bushings on them.

I was in the shop alone today, and with no one to help me get the hub out before I sent the arm to the press, I made up a little 'jig'


'Enriques Suspension Service'




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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 11 2012, 09:12 PM

... Holy Crap! I was cleaning up today, and decided to clean off the 'ugly red calipers' when I realized, 'Wait.... where's the hump?!.... Oh my God!" w00t.gif

Paging Eric Shea!



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Posted by: SLITS Feb 11 2012, 09:16 PM

You scored a set of original 914/6 rear calipers .... great!!!

Posted by: Eric_Shea Feb 11 2012, 09:29 PM

Those are just crappy old 4 calipers. Send them to me for disposal! lol3.gif

Very Good Score Weedhopper! That red is mighty aaron.gif though. I can fix that! biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 11 2012, 10:35 PM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 11 2012, 07:29 PM) *

Those are just crappy old 4 calipers. Send them to me for disposal! lol3.gif

Very Good Score Weedhopper! That red is mighty aaron.gif though. I can fix that! biggrin.gif


Ha! My thoughts exactly. I'm thinking along the lines of 'old school'.

Yo'll be seeing these soon, I assure you.

Posted by: SLITS Feb 12 2012, 09:29 AM

Those HEs look like B&B Stainless though the flanges are different which may be for the 3.6 muffler.

I have a brand new pair biggrin.gif ... For 16 dead Franklin's I can save you all that elbow grease & sweat FERG.gif and then you will have the ability to hang out in bars, parties or actually find a date. poke.gif

For an additional 3 Franklins + your CORES, I have a set of rebuilt 914/6 rears.

If you have a good passenger side 914/6 HE, we might be able to save you a couple of Franklins and you might finish your project for Route 66 ...

Hell, I'll even throw in a 914/6 t-shirt.

Oh and SheaZack ... step away from the 'puter and leave this one alone. evilgrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 12 2012, 02:24 PM

QUOTE(SLITS @ Feb 12 2012, 07:29 AM) *

Those HEs look like B&B Stainless though the flanges are different which may be for the 3.6 muffler.

I have a brand new pair biggrin.gif ... For 16 dead Franklin's I can save you all that elbow grease & sweat FERG.gif and then you will have the ability to hang out in bars, parties or actually find a date. poke.gif

For an additional 3 Franklins + your CORES, I have a set of rebuilt 914/6 rears.

If you have a good passenger side 914/6 HE, we might be able to save you a couple of Franklins and you might finish your project for Route 66 ...

Hell, I'll even throw in a 914/6 t-shirt.

Oh and SheaZack ... step away from the 'puter and leave this one alone. evilgrin.gif



Lol. I'll see what is to become of the HE's. There's talk of putting my engine in the black car as it's already 80% a race car. Should we go that route, I'm doing headers, race prep, fiberglass bumpers, etc.

My car is once again on the lift, and now begins the assembly process. Not gonna lie, it makes me kinda sad to not use the 2.9 that, in my opinion, looks beautiful with all the work that went into it. The carbs, fan shroud, valve covers, etc.


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Posted by: mepstein Feb 12 2012, 02:38 PM

It's been 3.5 years and you have a full blown shop. Put something in the car and get 'er done!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 12 2012, 07:22 PM

How's this for 'Get er' done!' smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 12 2012, 09:11 PM

Now I'm focusing on the oil lines. Running them up front, and in the engine bay. It's irrelevant at this point which oil cooler setup I'll be using, my my concern is making the lines work from the front wheel back.

Elephant Racing setup drooley.gif drooley.gif drooley.gif But alot of $$$$$



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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 12 2012, 09:48 PM

Unfortunately for guys my age, we are usually 'fiscally impaired', so I'll have to use some extra braided lines instead of hard lines. Is there a problem with this? I still plan on mounting them to the body to have 'straight' lines. In a certain aspect, I'de think 'soft' lines would be better for vibrations. Thoughts? Is there a good reason not to do this?

I think these are -12..... I also hope they'll be big enough!


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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 13 2012, 09:11 AM

braided lines are fine.. you may want to get a gasket in around the lines as they pass thru the 'long' holes, and perhaps install some adel clamps to keep them apart (for the same reason).

Posted by: rwilner Feb 15 2012, 09:57 AM

Do you have a pic of where the lines pass into the front wheel well and enter the front trunk? I ask because I'm planning a similar route for my lines -- all flex hose.
thx
Rich

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2012, 12:46 PM

QUOTE(rwilner @ Feb 15 2012, 07:57 AM) *

Do you have a pic of where the lines pass into the front wheel well and enter the front trunk? I ask because I'm planning a similar route for my lines -- all flex hose.
thx
Rich


Hey Rich, I'm not quite there yet, my biggest concern right now is routing the lines in the Pass. side longs, and in the engine bay. I'm still waiting on my oil cooler, so I'm thinking I'll tackle that end of this week/early next week.

I'm still not quite sure how I'm going to route the lines inside the wheel well, as I like my car really low (occupational hazard of being Mexican). I'll have to check out how others have done it, but I believe they go along the side of the wheel well, or inside the cabin (slightly) and through the gas tank area.

AZ:

Most definitely. I'm going to try to get out to a supplier today and see what they have. At a minimum, I figure I'll need 3-4 2x adel clamps and need to fab up a sort of bracket to hold the Carrera thermostat. I don't believe the 911's needed them, as they used hard lines.

Work, work, work for Route 66! smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2012, 09:05 AM

3.6 Guys, here's a question for you.... Do I need to trim down the fins on the valve covers like I did on my last engine? WTF.gif

Posted by: eric9144 Feb 16 2012, 09:14 AM

You just pulled it out of the black 914 so wouldn't it have already been done if that was the case? confused24.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2012, 09:48 AM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Feb 16 2012, 07:14 AM) *

You just pulled it out of the black 914 so wouldn't it have already been done if that was the case? confused24.gif


When I pulled it out of the black car, it had only been in there a short while and I don't think the PO had yet to do a valve job. It'll fit without the fins shaved down, I just think it makes it that much more a pain in the ass.

I've searched a few threads but either can't come up with anything, or have over-looked it.

Wait a minute.... Eric? What are you doing up so early?!

Posted by: jcambo7 Feb 16 2012, 10:00 AM

Just get 'er done already! poke.gif popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: mepstein Feb 16 2012, 10:22 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 16 2012, 10:48 AM) *

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Feb 16 2012, 07:14 AM) *

You just pulled it out of the black 914 so wouldn't it have already been done if that was the case? confused24.gif


When I pulled it out of the black car, it had only been in there a short while and I don't think the PO had yet to do a valve job. It'll fit without the fins shaved down, I just think it makes it that much more a pain in the ass.

I've searched a few threads but either can't come up with anything, or have over-looked it.

Wait a minute.... Eric? What are you doing up so early?!


I would do it now. Won't be any easier later.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 16 2012, 10:26 AM

QUOTE(jcambo7 @ Feb 16 2012, 08:00 AM) *

Just get 'er done already! poke.gif popcorn[1].gif


No way... this project thread needs to make it to atleast 40 pages!

Posted by: John Jentz Feb 16 2012, 11:22 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 16 2012, 10:05 AM) *

3.6 Guys, here's a question for you.... Do I need to trim down the fins on the valve covers like I did on my last engine? WTF.gif

Doesn't the 3.6 have hydraulic lifters? If so you wouldn't be removing them for adjustment.

Posted by: jcambo7 Feb 16 2012, 12:27 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 16 2012, 11:26 AM) *

QUOTE(jcambo7 @ Feb 16 2012, 08:00 AM) *

Just get 'er done already! poke.gif popcorn[1].gif


No way... this project thread needs to make it to atleast 40 pages!

av-943.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2012, 10:45 AM

Oil lines pretty much run, however, my only concern now is how to run them in the front wheel well. I'm super paranoid about the wheel hitting and digging into the lines, so I think I'm going to run them in the gas tank area and through the front firewall.



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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2012, 10:46 AM

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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 21 2012, 12:37 PM

I'd definitely secure them in the well.. I know there are lots of pictures out there.. maybe SirAndy's ?

Posted by: mepstein Feb 21 2012, 01:15 PM

Enrique - Are you still using the oem firewall mount for the 3.6?

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2012, 07:42 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 21 2012, 11:15 AM) *

Enrique - Are you still using the oem firewall mount for the 3.6?



Yes, I've rewelded the hell out of it, top and bottom as well as the center hole. I also think I'm going to add two bolts through the center of it, just in case.

Posted by: EdArango Feb 21 2012, 09:28 PM

Enrique.... Car is looking great!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 21 2012, 10:38 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Feb 21 2012, 07:28 PM) *

Enrique.... Car is looking great!



Thanks Ed, stop by anytime if you like!



Late night build question for anyone still up; Can I use an early fan pulley system on the 3.6? The Clewett Engineering serpentine belt wont fit inside my stock motor mount. dry.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2012, 01:44 AM

Well.... The issue of 'how do I route these oil lines' is pretty much solved.....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2012, 01:47 AM

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Posted by: mepstein Feb 22 2012, 05:40 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 21 2012, 11:38 PM) *

QUOTE(EdArango @ Feb 21 2012, 07:28 PM) *

Enrique.... Car is looking great!



Thanks Ed, stop by anytime if you like!



Late night build question for anyone still up; Can I use an early fan pulley system on the 3.6? The Clewett Engineering serpentine belt wont fit inside my stock motor mount. dry.gif





I was sort of wondering about the oem mount...

If you use the early fan, will the alternator have enough umph for the dual plugs? I guess now you have to go BIG on the front cooler since it's the only one.

Maybe the Ferrari engine will fit laugh.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2012, 09:09 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 22 2012, 03:40 AM) *


I was sort of wondering about the oem mount...

If you use the early fan, will the alternator have enough umph for the dual plugs? I guess now you have to go BIG on the front cooler since it's the only one.

Maybe the Ferrari engine will fit laugh.gif


I was probably explaining my problem wrong, but I'm not looking to use the early fan, but rather just the pulley system that goes from the crank to the fan OR I need to get my hands on a stock crank pulley and take it down on the lathe.

hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif

Posted by: JmuRiz Feb 22 2012, 09:13 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 21 2012, 08:38 PM) *

QUOTE(EdArango @ Feb 21 2012, 07:28 PM) *

Enrique.... Car is looking great!



Thanks Ed, stop by anytime if you like!



Late night build question for anyone still up; Can I use an early fan pulley system on the 3.6? The Clewett Engineering serpentine belt wont fit inside my stock motor mount. dry.gif


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Not sure if it's just the near/far perspective, but that new 3.6 looks huge next to your old engine.

BTW what was the base for the old motor and what size is it?

Posted by: mepstein Feb 22 2012, 09:33 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 22 2012, 10:09 AM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 22 2012, 03:40 AM) *


I was sort of wondering about the oem mount...

If you use the early fan, will the alternator have enough umph for the dual plugs? I guess now you have to go BIG on the front cooler since it's the only one.

Maybe the Ferrari engine will fit laugh.gif


I was probably explaining my problem wrong, but I'm not looking to use the early fan, but rather just the pulley system that goes from the crank to the fan OR I need to get my hands on a stock crank pulley and take it down on the lathe.

hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif


You seem to have some pretty intelligent family members that could probably steer you right....

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 22 2012, 06:56 PM

Working on the fuel system today.... What a pain in the ass these bulkhead fittings inside the tunnel are the biggest pain in the ass to connect.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2012, 07:18 PM

I never really liked the stock mount for the Mocal oil thermostat, apparently my Grandfather overhead this and surprised me with this!



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Posted by: ThePaintedMan Feb 23 2012, 07:24 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 22 2012, 10:33 AM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 22 2012, 10:09 AM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 22 2012, 03:40 AM) *


I was sort of wondering about the oem mount...

If you use the early fan, will the alternator have enough umph for the dual plugs? I guess now you have to go BIG on the front cooler since it's the only one.

Maybe the Ferrari engine will fit laugh.gif


I was probably explaining my problem wrong, but I'm not looking to use the early fan, but rather just the pulley system that goes from the crank to the fan OR I need to get my hands on a stock crank pulley and take it down on the lathe.

hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif hissyfit.gif


You seem to have some pretty intelligent family members that could probably steer you right....


And $$ ones! smile.gif

Posted by: Socalandy Feb 23 2012, 08:22 PM

Looks great and your getting close to the finish line!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2012, 09:07 PM

QUOTE(Socalandy @ Feb 23 2012, 06:22 PM) *

Looks great and your getting close to the finish line!!



Thanks Andy! I cannot wait to see that 3.0 twin plug! What color are you thinking?

Will I see you at Route 66?


Posted by: Socalandy Feb 23 2012, 09:20 PM

Original Canary Yellow

not looking good for RT66 at the moment sad.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 23 2012, 11:00 PM

QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Feb 23 2012, 05:24 PM) *


And $$ ones! smile.gif



We all work really hard, and love cars. All cars.

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 28 2012, 10:18 AM

Small speedbump in the way of getting the engine in the car.

As you may recall, this engine has the Clewett Engineering Serpentine belt system installed, great system- I love it. However, the system will not clear the engine mount (engine side) on the OEM /6 engine support. It still needs about 1/2 an inch before it presses flush against the engine.

After looking at a few options, we've decided to cut the support lip on the mount, and re-weld it approximately 1 inch closer to the firewall, giving both enough room to run the Clewett pulley system AND replace a belt inside the car while still maintaining the 'box' structure on the mount that gives it so much strength.


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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 28 2012, 01:10 PM

Nice!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 28 2012, 04:37 PM

Thanks Jason! Working on it... sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif sawzall-smiley.gif

Initial plasma cut done courtesy of my Father. Now I'll be cleaning this up, grinding down the edges, and re-welding the top support and possibly two 'fins' to give it additional strength. It's still very strong, but I rather be over-kill than iffy.



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Posted by: SLITS Feb 28 2012, 08:31 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Feb 28 2012, 02:37 PM) *

and re-welding the top support and possibly two 'fins' to give it additional strength.

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They're called "gussets".

Posted by: sixnotfour Feb 28 2012, 08:43 PM

That was a waist of oem in my opinion, I would have traded any aftermarket mount for the factory set up,

Carpenters rules ...measure twice cut once...........

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 28 2012, 10:30 PM

QUOTE(SLITS @ Feb 28 2012, 06:31 PM) *



They're called "gussets".



Is this the part where I get a kick in the butt, Ron?

Gussets..... Chalon..... Shalom


bootyshake.gif

Posted by: Socalandy Feb 29 2012, 07:40 PM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 28 2012, 06:43 PM) *

That was a waist of oem in my opinion, I would have traded any aftermarket mount for the factory set up,

Carpenters rules ...measure twice cut once...........


agree.gif Those nose cones are like Gold to -6 owners sad.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 29 2012, 08:03 PM

QUOTE(Socalandy @ Feb 29 2012, 05:40 PM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 28 2012, 06:43 PM) *

That was a waist of oem in my opinion, I would have traded any aftermarket mount for the factory set up,

Carpenters rules ...measure twice cut once...........


agree.gif Those nose cones are like Gold to -6 owners sad.gif



I hope it's not too much of a Porsche heresy, but I think it's a cool mod and the mount was already welded on there from my 2.9 project.

I hope to 'make up for it' with the overall quality of my build, and I hope it reflects that. Also, I like that I'm able to run the Clewett system with the stock mount and that my Father, Grandfather, and myself worked to make it happen.

Posted by: Socalandy Feb 29 2012, 09:01 PM

it takes nothing away from what you've done or will do to finish it and its a great project. Just a very rare part. I've always said... your car your way!!

Keep it up and I cant wait to see it in person!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 29 2012, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(Socalandy @ Feb 29 2012, 07:01 PM) *

it takes nothing away from what you've done or will do to finish it and its a great project. Just a very rare part. I've always said... your car your way!!

Keep it up and I cant wait to see it in person!!


Thanks Andy! Great to hear that from you! And I totally agree, parts are to be used.

Cannot wait until that 3.0 twin plug of yours is done.... just.... ugh! drooley.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 3 2012, 01:49 AM

Friday night.... again.... and here I am with a file trying to get a super nice radius on a part no one is ever going to see.....


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Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 3 2012, 02:22 AM

QUOTE
it takes nothing away from what you've done or will do to finish it and its a great project. Just a very rare part. I've always said... your car your way!!

Keep it up and I cant wait to see it in person!!


Its all Good , Looks great

Posted by: Cairo94507 Mar 3 2012, 08:05 AM

Nice job. I understand people's grimace when you cut the original mount though. But it is your car and that is water under the bridge. I like the work you are doing on this car and look forward to seeing the engine in the car.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 5 2012, 12:43 AM

This is now the third fourth engine this car has had since I've owned it.... and I still have yet to drive it dry.gif

Fits like a glove though! biggrin.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 9 2012, 01:03 AM

Plugging right along. smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 9 2012, 01:33 AM

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Posted by: mepstein Mar 9 2012, 07:49 AM

Are you going to reinforce the body around the cut-outs?

Posted by: Cairo94507 Mar 9 2012, 08:05 AM

RiqueMar - I hate you biggrin.gif. I wish I had an engine for my car hissyfit.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 9 2012, 09:16 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 9 2012, 05:49 AM) *

Are you going to reinforce the body around the cut-outs?


Yes, we have a 'fiberglass modeler' on staff who's really good. I'm thinking a nice one-piece 'ring' of carbon fiber around the entire cutout that will tie the oil cooler into the body in addition to the bolts on the bottom



QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 9 2012, 06:05 AM) *

RiqueMar - I hate you biggrin.gif. I wish I had an engine for my car hissyfit.gif


You know, I still have that 2.9 idea.gif

Posted by: mepstein Mar 9 2012, 10:15 AM

[quote name='RiqueMar' date='Mar 9 2012, 10:16 AM' post='1642042']
[quote name='mepstein' post='1641989' date='Mar 9 2012, 05:49 AM']
Are you going to reinforce the body around the cut-outs?
[/quote]

Yes, we have a 'fiberglass modeler' on staff who's really good. I'm thinking a nice one-piece 'ring' of carbon fiber around the entire cutout that will tie the oil cooler into the body in addition to the bolts on the bottom


Nice!

Posted by: JmuRiz Mar 9 2012, 12:12 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Mar 9 2012, 07:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 9 2012, 06:05 AM) *

RiqueMar - I hate you biggrin.gif. I wish I had an engine for my car hissyfit.gif


You know, I still have that 2.9 idea.gif

I'll pay you $5 for it...even though my wife would still want to kill me for buying another motor biggrin.gif Is damn tempting though...I guess I'd need to know how much, haha.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 9 2012, 02:26 PM

Thanks!

Eventually, I'll do a new system, possibly using the same cooler (which is the stock cooler) at a sharper angle so that it may lay 'flatter', it's currently just over about 45 degrees. The benefit with this one for the time being is that the holes in the body do not have to be that large, so I can always go bigger with the shroud/cooler. Also, a big factor with this system is that it allows me plenty of room for the spare tire, fuel pump, and fuel filter.

The only thing still really pending on the cooling system is the interface with the fan. I'm not sure if I want to go with a manual switch, leave it powered the entire time, or go with the original setup that kicked the fan on at a specific oil temp. idea.gif

I suppose, most likely, I'll use the original setup and clean up the electronics a bit for the time being.


Got into the shop a little early today, so I had a bit of time to work on the lines from the thermostat to the cooler.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 9 2012, 04:52 PM

Well, I suppose it's close enough for me to start thinking of driving?! driving.gif


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Posted by: AZ914 Mar 9 2012, 08:28 PM

Bueno!

Dooood.. Two weeks!

Posted by: mepstein Mar 9 2012, 10:16 PM

OK, I'll admit it. It took me a double take before I got the plate but I like it.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Mar 10 2012, 08:30 AM

RiqueMar- I appreciate that; but it will be a stock 3.2 when the time comes.

I have to find a way to get down to San Diego on business so I can stop by your shop and just stand around with my mouth hanging open as I turn green with jealousy.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 10 2012, 09:47 AM

Man... Your calipers look nice. Just say'n biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 10 2012, 10:48 AM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Mar 10 2012, 06:30 AM) *

RiqueMar- I appreciate that; but it will be a stock 3.2 when the time comes.

I have to find a way to get down to San Diego on business so I can stop by your shop and just stand around with my mouth hanging open as I turn green with jealousy.


.... I have one of those too, PM me if youre looking for one



QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Mar 10 2012, 07:47 AM) *

Man... Your calipers look nice. Just say'n biggrin.gif


Is is the part where you post photos?!?! biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 11 2012, 02:27 AM

Eric texted me a photo of these babies headed my way this week... piratenanner.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 27 2012, 11:30 AM

I was steaming right along trying to get ready for Route 66, working until about 12 each night. When I realized I couldn't go, I got a little de-motivated and ignored the car for a few days, but I'm over it and back on it.

Fuel lines are run and standardized, everything is -6 AN with bulkhead fittings in the tunnel. MAN was it a pain to connect up the fittings in the tunnel! Originally, the PO had cut a sort of 'plate' and just riveted it to the firewall from the engine bay side. Now, I have straight -6 bulkhead fittings going to a 90 degree adaptor that feeds then engine area fuel lines. For reference, the drivers side fuel 'port' is the IN line, and the passenger side is for return.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 27 2012, 12:03 PM

I ended up covering the backpad and floor under the seats with the same felt style material that's under the carpets, I figure if I ever want to do a driving event and run a set of MOMO seats I have, it'll look decent with the backpad out, and you wont see the shiny Fatmat material.

For the record, this really deadens the sound. If I recall correctly, the firewall/seat area now has rubberized undercoating outside and inside, paint, fatmat, felt, and carpet.

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Interior going in, finally get to grab some stuff out of storage that I've been saving for years! Mostly interior items, but I think it's nice stuff.

Getty door panels, seats, interior trim that i find here and there and I've been saving.

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Posted by: effutuo101 Mar 27 2012, 12:11 PM

Nice work. this is a great build and has given me idea's for mine.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 29 2012, 11:59 PM

Long time no update, but business is really picking up, and I've been doing my best to keep on the car!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 30 2012, 12:31 AM

As for the car, I put on the brakes just today, the oil lines are hooked, and the electrical is just about there minus the fuel pump, I hope to crank it over soon!

Note to self: If you're struggling with putting a caliper on for more than 10 minutes, stop and check if you're putting the correct caliper on the correct side.... screwy.gif

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Posted by: Cairo94507 May 30 2012, 06:56 AM

RiqueMar- Nice to see some progress photos; I have the exact same rear calipers courtesy of Eric. Mine are still in a real nice box though.

My car is now in VA to begin the process of restoration. Dr. Evil just completed my transaxle and it looks very nice and should shift like a dream. I had it converted to a side-shifter and it has all of the JWest shift rods, etc. and will have the JWest shifter too.

You still have that old 3.2 sitting around?

Posted by: RiqueMar May 30 2012, 08:40 AM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ May 30 2012, 05:56 AM) *

RiqueMar- Nice to see some progress photos; I have the exact same rear calipers courtesy of Eric. Mine are still in a real nice box though.

My car is now in VA to begin the process of restoration. Dr. Evil just completed my transaxle and it looks very nice and should shift like a dream. I had it converted to a side-shifter and it has all of the JWest shift rods, etc. and will have the JWest shifter too.

You still have that old 3.2 sitting around?



Yeah, I have the whole JWest setup as well, but when I made the switch to this 3.6 it already had the Wevo kit on it. I may end up just using the shifter or adapting the kit to work with the Wevo, but that's once I get it on the road.

I'm waiting on a shift bushing from Pelican, as my bonehead self installed the bushing before the linkage and I had to drill it out.... headbang.gif

Worst comes to worse, I'll put the whole system on the black car that this came off with my 2.9 and Side-shifter.

Yes I do have the engine still. PM me or email me, eallenmar@driveskills.com

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 4 2012, 10:26 AM

Got all the pipes, MAS, and hoses hooked up this weekend. I swear, everything just barely fits!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 4 2012, 10:31 AM

Also, made these 5mm spacers for my set of GT brakes, and had to grind off a bit of the suspension console.

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Posted by: mepstein Jun 4 2012, 11:10 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jun 4 2012, 12:31 PM) *

Also, made these 5mm spacers for my set of GT brakes, and had to grind off a bit of the suspension console.


I thought the calipers where a no mod bolt on. why did you have to grind?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 4 2012, 12:20 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jun 4 2012, 10:10 AM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jun 4 2012, 12:31 PM) *

Also, made these 5mm spacers for my set of GT brakes, and had to grind off a bit of the suspension console.


I thought the calipers where a no mod bolt on. why did you have to grind?


My suspension was boxed/reinforced and some extra weld/paint/etc was there. I suppose it would fit, but it's much cleaner now with that amount of clearance. The small amount of grinding I did gives you that much more space making it easier to install and remove.

Eric said he did a thread on recommendations, but I'm having a bit of trouble finding it.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jun 5 2012, 12:01 AM

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105225

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 5 2012, 11:35 AM

pray.gif


Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 31 2012, 12:24 PM

So, I've been a quite busy with work (starting a business is a bit hard, I've learned) and the 914 has taken a back seat.

As a side note, we are working on a charity benefit here in San Diego called Cruise 4 Kids (see http://www.c4ksd.com/ for details). It's essentially a cruise and car show to benefit the Boys and Girls clubs of San Diego. As a sponsor of the event, we will be attending with 3 of our Formula1 simulators as well as our Safe Driving promotional trailer to benefit the California Highway Patrol.

As such, to highlight the CHP we've 'decked out' one of our company Ferrari's, a 360 Spyder Stradale, to be 'the ultimate patrol cruiser' and had a photoshoot last Sunday with it and other cars that will be attending. I can honestly say it was the favorite of the event. Although it's not done, when it's fully complete, we will have fitted a light bar, push bumper, and siren.


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Posted by: mepstein Jul 31 2012, 12:29 PM

Your life must be hell. biggrin.gif

Posted by: eric9144 Jul 31 2012, 01:57 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 31 2012, 11:24 AM) *

So, I've been a quite busy with work (starting a business is a bit hard, I've learned)


lol-2.gif lol-2.gif av-943.gif av-943.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif

Enrique...how do you do it, poor guy...

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 31 2012, 06:22 PM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Jul 31 2012, 12:57 PM) *


lol-2.gif lol-2.gif av-943.gif av-943.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif

Enrique...how do you do it, poor guy...


QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 31 2012, 11:29 AM) *

Your life must be hell. biggrin.gif


It's all for the Kids, I swear.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 1 2012, 08:21 PM

Finally got around to -somewhat- working on the car. Finished the caliper conversion to the GT Calipers, and man am I happy with the result. Shiny calipers, new brake lines, good looking setup, and huge rotors. The spacers I placed under the rotor hats really evened everything out and the rotor is perfectly inside that brake caliper.

Before I added the spacer, this is basically what I was dealing with. The back end of the larger rotor, used for the GT brakes, was hitting the mounting 'ears' for the brake caliper. Per Eric Sheas instructions, you may have to space the caliper back 3-5mm OR space the rotor forward 3-5mm. At first, I wanted to space it back, but found this to be easier as we already had the machining program from converting 4lug rotors to 5 lug as well as the spacers I'm making for each wheel (more on that later).

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Once I had the spacer I made sure it fit the 5-lug pattern and would fit under the rotor, I took this picture to try to illustrate how it sits under the rotor, if my explanation above was at all lacking.

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From there all you do is place it on the hub, then place the rotor, install your screws (if you like, or don't as you'll have the lugs on there anyway) and install the brakes as you normally would. Shazaam, you have GT Brakes.

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Posted by: tscrihfield Aug 1 2012, 08:28 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 31 2012, 08:22 PM) *

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Jul 31 2012, 12:57 PM) *


lol-2.gif lol-2.gif av-943.gif av-943.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif pray.gif

Enrique...how do you do it, poor guy...


QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 31 2012, 11:29 AM) *

Your life must be hell. biggrin.gif


It's all for the Kids, I swear.


Well I consider myself a kid... Now can I go motorboat and claim innocence? confused24.gif drooley.gif

Posted by: mepstein Jan 5 2013, 01:40 PM

Well... ?

Posted by: eric9144 Jan 5 2013, 02:33 PM

agree.gif WTF.gif poke.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 02:45 PM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Jan 5 2013, 12:33 PM) *

agree.gif WTF.gif poke.gif


I've been totally lacking on progress threads, sorry guys. A little backround as I update...

The C4K Charity event went off great. 125 cars, models, our racing simulators, and music. Everything from Porsche, to Ferrari, to Bugatti. Just awesome, and an awesome highlight for the company.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 03:13 PM

After the Cruise 4 Kids event, we were proud to install in K1Speed - San Francisco what I think is the most beautiful sim we've produced to date. A life sized 'tribute' to the Red Bull Racing F1 Car, our VMC-Champion....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 03:40 PM

Right after the Red Bull Simulator installation, it was off to Texas for the F1 race @ COTA. If you have a chance to go, I cannot recommend the event enough. Everything was great, from the musical performances, to fanfest, to the City of Austin it really is a great event to do. Should you get tickets, I can't imagine a better seat than the Turn 12/Turn 14, as you get to see the cars as they exit the DRS zone at maximum speed, and work their way through a set of 4 turns. I've included a pic of the winning pass that happened right infront of us! Turn 11/10 is also great. I wouldn't recommend Turn 1, we had a second set of tickets as we where with customers, and though you get to see the start/finish and the first uphill turn, there isn't much more to see...

Oh, and bring sunscreen! It's cold when the wind is blowing, but hot when it isnt! My arms found out the hard way!





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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 03:46 PM

Finally, my last bit of 'social updating' before I get back on track with the car, I bought a certified 'car hauler'. I picked it mostly because the flairs match the 914, as well as the blacked out wheels! I'll be honest, I was trying to play it cool in looking for a new car, but as soon as I saw it, I knew I had to have it. I've had it about 6 weeks now, and I love it! So awesome, cool and comfortable! It handles the beach, downtown, or the mountains equally well, and in my opinion, looks good dirty OR clean. Loved taking it out, and also, going up to the mountains the week after I got it.






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Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 03:52 PM

Now, onto the important stuff, the 914.

My last biggest obstacle is an important one; finishing up the wiring, cleaning it, organizing, and getting all the components to run correctly. Everything worked with the last owner, but I think it can be done better, so I've focused on installing a remote fuse location on the front trunk wall that leads to the oil cooler fan, fuel pump, and (leaving a few open) an amplifier if I choose to go that route. A little extra work, but I think in the end it will be worth it.

This weekend, I'm installing all new fittings on the oil lines I installed and in some cases, driving larger holes in the sheet metal for rubber isolator grommets. I sort of rushed through this part before, and not only was I not happy with the result, it was dangerous as these are fuel lines we are talking about...


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Posted by: AZ914 Feb 15 2013, 04:04 PM

welcome.png
biggrin.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Feb 15 2013, 04:16 PM

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Feb 15 2013, 02:04 PM) *

welcome.png
biggrin.gif



I'm not gonna lie, I totally deserve that, AZ. My last post was Aug 1st, fail.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 1 2013, 09:44 PM

Aaaaand it's August first again. It's been a bit of a busy year, and the 914 has been nearly untouched. Though I havent done much I'm the car, I'm posting and reading threads in an attempt to get motivated!

Attached ImageIt's been a bit of a busy year, and the 914 has been nearly untouched. Getting back on-track, I've moved the 914 to one of our newest buildings and have begun the process of reorganizing.

After inventory, The main areas I have to focus on are the following:

- Wiring
- Brain
- Dash Harness
- /6 Steering column/switches

Interior
- Seats
- Dash covering
- Gauges
- Windscreens

- Misc. Items
- Door handles
- Trim
- Hoods
- Bumpers

Looking at it, it's really not that much.... atleast that's what I keep telling myself blink.gif

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Posted by: mepstein Aug 2 2013, 05:13 AM

Glad to see you back. I call dibs on the other orange six.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 2 2013, 07:12 AM

It is about time that you came to your senses. Nice to see you back on track. I look forward to seeing your car move along. Welcome home.

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 2 2013, 07:43 AM

We were about to send the dogs out to look for ya. Ron said that you went to stromberg.gif and the Hogs gotcha. av-943.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2013, 07:31 PM

Thanks for the 'Welcome Words' guys. I hope to have the car on the road soon, and move on to make it perfect while driving!

As for now, I'm asking for a bit of help from those more experienced thank I with the 964 engine. With the last owner, everything functioned, but I still feel there are loose ends. As we are wrapping up the wiring and turning things on and off, I want to make sure I'm making all the right moves in regards to the engine and ECU.

Primarily, I'm concerned with the large amount of disconnected leads and connectors as well as the pin out. While I have the pin out for the main 55-Pin connector to the ECU, I don't know if there is a corresponding diagram/list/etc that shows the routing of the leads.

For the other 3.6 guys out there, any information/diagrams/notes/etc really helps if you can spare them! I'm still gathering information and reading other users progress threads, but would really appreciate a 'heads up'.

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Posted by: mepstein Sep 21 2014, 07:26 PM

betty914.jpg

Posted by: mepstein Apr 16 2015, 09:12 PM

poke.gif

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 17 2015, 07:51 AM

He hasn't been on this site in a few years. I heard he sold it to a guy who put a Subaru 6 in it. stirthepot.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Apr 17 2015, 08:23 AM

Yeah, I was enjoying their cars and miss his postings.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 22 2016, 11:59 AM

Hey guys, long time no post!

I garaged this project a few years back, but hopping back on it. Either looking to complete it myself, or send it to various other builders to 'Finish her off'. Hope to be updating this today / tomorrow.

Not much has changed, just work and starting a business got in the way. This car is so close to being complete, it literally hurts to look at it. I feel like if I can just get it fired up, switches and electronics working, it will be on the road in a matter of weeks. Let's see!


Posted by: mepstein Aug 22 2016, 12:08 PM

Holy shit stranger.
Send it off? With your families shop? Well, what ever it takes.. Good to have you back!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 22 2016, 12:42 PM


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True, I do have the entire shop, but I think this calls for an experts touch. As passionate as I am, I can really screw up that 3.6 sheeplove.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 09:53 AM

Hi guys, writing this blog entry in hope to get some motivation to keep continuing on the project.

The car was sidelined once again last year, and I was resolved to have it finished by a professional shop. I originally took it to CPR in Fallbrook, CA to have them look at what needed to be done. I'm sad to say I wasn't very impressed with their previous work, but much less so with their communication, sales team, and customer interaction. After about 6 weeks of stalling, missed emails, etc. I was finally able to recoup the car.

After that incident, both my Dad and I are determined to get this up and running over the next few weeks. After about a month of reorganizing, finding parts etc, we got to work last weekend and put in a good 8 hours on the biggest of the tasks, electrical.

Really proud at how this is coming together, and as well as amazed how easy it is when you have two people who know these cars very intimately. In the course of a day, we were able to have the headlights, turn signals, hazards, and starter working. It's pretty cool to hear it turn once again with the high-torque starter, I had forgotten how that sounds.

In addition, we decided to nix the idea of having the ECU in the back, and have begun relocating it to the cab below the seats (expecting the passenger seat, but any input would be appreciated).

Going back to his ranch today, and hope to finish where we left off last week, connecting the aux oil cooler and relay, fuel pump relay, and begin reconstructing the harness with the dash loosely mounted.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 09:55 AM

A look at the trunk pre / post relocation of the ECU. Plan on adding a bit of filler in some places, and eventually, the trunk will go all black to match the front.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 09:57 AM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 09:58 AM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 10:01 AM

A look into the front trunk as we wire the relays and fuel pump, relatively straight-forward here. All thats left in this area is to clean up and 'rash-guard' the new harness.




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Posted by: mepstein Mar 17 2018, 10:09 AM

Enrique biggrin.gif !!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 10:14 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Mar 17 2018, 09:09 AM) *

Enrique biggrin.gif !!!



** Insert Gay wave here **

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 12:40 PM

Sidenote here:

Seems as though my Dad is keeping his project car as retro as possible, so the 2.9 I built (previously listed in this thread) is going into his car. Really proud of that engine, and it should looks great in his real -6. I think the only change he plans on is using his rebuilt transmission that already has a Velios on it and adding a Clewett engineering ignition system.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 17 2018, 12:41 PM

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Posted by: jcambo7 Mar 17 2018, 07:24 PM

Is this the next forever 914 project on the world site... poke.gif

Glad to see you back at it!

Posted by: bulitt Mar 17 2018, 07:57 PM

Welcome Back!!!

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 18 2018, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(jcambo7 @ Mar 17 2018, 06:24 PM) *

Is this the next forever 914 project on the world site... poke.gif

Glad to see you back at it!



QUOTE(bulitt @ Mar 17 2018, 06:57 PM) *

Welcome Back!!!

Thanks guys. Really trying to stick wit it this time.

My Father and I were able to log a few hours yesterday decoding the wiring and applying it to the 70' Chassis. As intimidating as it looks, with all the reference material there is online and considering how many 3.6 conversions have been done over the last few years, there is really a lot of information out there and makes it simple. I'll be doing my best to contribute, so any readers looking for reference can maybe learn from my mistakes or advances.

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 18 2018, 01:47 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 18 2018, 01:52 PM

Note: Not all the connections used in the stock 964 cluster are used. Luckily, I marked what was used in the previous vehicle, and really only have to decide what status lights and cluster I would like to use in my car.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 12 2018, 04:02 PM

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Sorting of the wires, and I think we are all set figuring out the correct connections to all the relays, DME, etc. The previous car and wiring was a mess, a lot of loops, dead ends, and crossed color connections. Should be cleared up by tomorrow, and all the relays, aux fuses and 12v 'checkpoints' will now be in the cab, behind the passenger seat.

..... ask me how much we love wiring.

Posted by: PanelBilly May 12 2018, 07:55 PM

Nice to have you back

Posted by: Mueller May 12 2018, 08:03 PM

That is a lot wiring to get your head wrapped around!

Glad to see forward progress.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 13 2018, 10:43 AM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ May 12 2018, 06:55 PM) *

Nice to have you back


QUOTE(Mueller @ May 12 2018, 07:03 PM) *

That is a lot wiring to get your head wrapped around!

Glad to see forward progress.



Thanks guys. Not updating as much, but still trying to get in a few hours everyday. My new goal is to have the car done for Rennsport in September.

For reference, the below pictures show the wiring and car from which the 3.6 came. Our biggest challenge so far is integrating it into the stock 70' harness in not only a 'clean and hidden' way, but also one that is pretty easy to access is there are any future upgrades. I'km thinking the amp / sound equipment will also go in this area, but thats secondary once the car is running.

I was originally going to take a similar approach to the following photos; putting the relays, 12v point, ECU, etc. there. After looking through a bunch of builds, blogs and progress threads, professional and otherwise, it seems as though under / behind the passenger seat is the preferred place.

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Posted by: SirAndy May 13 2018, 10:49 AM

welcome.png biggrin.gif


I mounted the ECU for my 3.6L under the dash on the passengers side. My wire loom (from PMS) i just long enough to make that work.

Lemmy dig for some pictures ...
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Posted by: SirAndy May 13 2018, 10:59 AM

The last picture is a bit misleading, we actually made a bracket to mount it horizontally under the dash, it's completely hidden but still easily accessible.
We also used rubber mounts to cut down on vibration transfer.
driving.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar May 13 2018, 11:18 AM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 13 2018, 09:59 AM) *

The last picture is a bit misleading, we actually made a bracket to mount it horizontally under the dash, it's completely hidden but still easily accessible.
We also used rubber mounts to cut down on vibration transfer.
driving.gif



Hi Andy!

Your thread is actually one of the ones I studied, I like your solution, very nice as always!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2019, 04:23 PM

Hi All,

Finally have been carving out time over the last few months. In summary, completing as much of this as possible, before sending it to a shop to have the wiring, brakes, suspension, etc. looked over.

Attaching a few photos for the sake of the project thread....

Started off re-organizing and cleaning up / detailing not only the exterior, but the next areas that will be worked on (front and rear trunk / engine bay). Big shout out to my Dad for contributing a weekend on this. The car looks great, and its cool to see the trunks under all that dust...


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2019, 04:30 PM

Followed up that day jumping into the wiring. Biggest concern right now is making sure all connections are correct (Turning on and off lights, routing the hardest, etc.)

Additionally, I've begun working on integrating the 914/6 column into the mix. It seems as though most connects plug right in. Will probably go a more modern rout and hardwire in these connections or use a sort of molex connector.

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Posted by: SirAndy Aug 19 2019, 04:43 PM

smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2019, 04:52 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 19 2019, 03:43 PM) *

smilie_pokal.gif



Gracias Andy.

Update: As of yesterday, have most of the lights and turn signals working. Need to convert the wipers from the stock /4 switch to the /6 on the steering column, but I'm not too concerned about that.

My main concern as of now is to get the onboard equipment working, then integrate with the 3.6 ECU and whatever is needed for the gauges. That, and organizing the harness. For the last two, I'm thinking that I'll send this off to a shop or have a pro / veteran of this kind of project come in for that.

Posted by: mb911 Aug 19 2019, 05:04 PM

Very cool.. I have to figure out that wiring for the column swap as well.. Soon.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2019, 05:07 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 19 2019, 04:04 PM) *

Very cool.. I have to figure out that wiring for the column swap as well.. Soon.



I think you'll find it pretty easy. I can't speak for all, but my car is a 70' and most of the wires and pin colors matched right up. Assuming you had everything, I would call this a weekend job; one day to swap / disconnect and plug in, and another to clean and button everything up.

Quick note for anyone reading, can anyone advise on the steering-column bolt size? I have all my dash bolts and nuts, but missing the four the connect the column to the chassis. If I remember correctly, they were M8.

Posted by: mb911 Aug 19 2019, 06:05 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 19 2019, 03:07 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 19 2019, 04:04 PM) *

Very cool.. I have to figure out that wiring for the column swap as well.. Soon.



I think you'll find it pretty easy. I can't speak for all, but my car is a 70' and most of the wires and pin colors matched right up. Assuming you had everything, I would call this a weekend job; one day to swap / disconnect and plug in, and another to clean and button everything up.

Quick note for anyone reading, can anyone advise on the steering-column bolt size? I have all my dash bolts and nuts, but missing the four the connect the column to the chassis. If I remember correctly, they were M8.



They are 8mm.. I have my column in my car already just have to make the connections..

Posted by: mepstein Aug 19 2019, 07:33 PM

Welcome back. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2019, 10:03 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 19 2019, 05:05 PM) *


They are 8mm.. I have my column in my car already just have to make the connections..


Thanks for the heads up. Did'nt have a metric thread-finder

Posted by: JRust Aug 20 2019, 08:26 PM

Rigue it has been far to long my friend! Happy to see you still working to get that beautiful 914 back on the road. Hope to see you driving it to an event soon driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 22 2019, 11:53 PM

The wiring continues, and I feel a bit better about it today. Fuel pump, ECU, relays seem to now be isolated and working, thanks to Dad.

As he was running different combinations, and trying to decode what was done to the wiring for the oil-cooler and fuel pump (it's a mix of multi-colored and spliced wires, romex, and Home Depot connectors), I parked in the Drivers seat for a couple of hours to try to see if I could work my way through the rats-nest.

Some before and after photos, as well as progress on component wiring...


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 22 2019, 11:55 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 24 2019, 01:38 PM

Progress!

Trying to organize this so it makes sense, and then resemble a more stock-looking harness afterward.

Side-note: I recovered a few rubber pieces from the 75’ 914. Can anyone recommend a good method for cleaning and refurbishing? I’m thinking warm water with a bit of Simple Green, then a slow-dry, and maybe some ‘back to black’ to finish it off.




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Posted by: Chi-town Aug 24 2019, 02:49 PM

Simple green usually leaves a white residue.

Look at Griot's garage, their rubber cleaner works decently

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 24 2019, 11:21 PM

QUOTE(Chi-town @ Aug 24 2019, 01:49 PM) *

Simple green usually leaves a white residue.

Look at Griot's garage, their rubber cleaner works decently



Thanks for the heads up!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 24 2019, 11:41 PM

"How do you eat an Elephant? ...One bite at a time"

Today was dedicated to get some sort of form on the wiring harness going from the fuse board to the dash. Most everything works, but we still need to integrate components of the 3.6 harness. It's not perfect, and not the final run, but this gives us some sort of an idea on how the harness will 'run'.

I haven't completely mounted everything, because I'm still accessing the switches, but it is MUCH more organized and pretty easy to work with. Most connections are labeled, but I still have a few orphans.

To make things easier for any future adds, I'm relocating the 12v 'junction point' that's below the dash to be more accessible just behind the gauge cluster, as well as adding another for Ground.

Plan is to finish up the wiring; verify, trouble-shoot and add everything. Then I'll address the harness one-more time before buttoning up the dash.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 24 2019, 11:49 PM

End-of-day, and we are testing! So far running lights, turn signals, headlights are a go. Current challenge is the pilot lights!


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Posted by: barefoot Aug 25 2019, 04:00 AM

When routing wires over the steering column MAKE SURE you keep everything away from the U-joint. Terrible things happen if wires get snagged in that joint.
Ask me how i know.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 25 2019, 09:14 AM

QUOTE(barefoot @ Aug 25 2019, 03:00 AM) *

When routing wires over the steering column MAKE SURE you keep everything away from the U-joint. Terrible things happen if wires get snagged in that joint.
Ask me how i know.



Thanks for the heads up! Great advice for anyone reading. Though I haven't had that happen in a car, that has happened to me when wiring out Driving Simulators. Not a fun time.

Eventually, once everything is working, updated, and confirmed, I'll remove the zip-ties and either bind the wiring with fabric-tape (to look somewhat like stock) or safety sleeving. I prefer the safety sleeving, it's what we use on our sims and makes everything look cleaner.

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Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 25 2019, 03:35 PM

If you have it, I would safety sleeve the wires after the fabric tape. Overkill? beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 25 2019, 06:50 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Aug 25 2019, 02:35 PM) *

If you have it, I would safety sleeve the wires after the fabric tape. Overkill? beerchug.gif



Lol, I think you’re a gluten for punishment.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 25 2019, 06:58 PM

Question for the community here. We are mounting the 914/6 steering column, and notice a slight angle, maybe 2-5 degrees to the drivers side door. Is this normal? I have yet to see it with the dash pad and mount on.

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Posted by: mb911 Aug 25 2019, 07:35 PM

Yes that is correct.. Been. Topic several times..

Posted by: ClayPerrine Aug 25 2019, 08:03 PM

Looks like you are doing a bunch of stuff that I have already tackled on my conversion. I did the steering column and ignition switch years ago, and I am just finishing up a 964 based 4.0L install. I deleted the DME relay, and went with solid state bosch square relays.

Also, I noticed you have the /4 headlight relay installed. You won't need it with the /6 column.

Let me know if I can help.


Clay

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 25 2019, 08:34 PM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Aug 25 2019, 07:03 PM) *

Looks like you are doing a bunch of stuff that I have already tackled on my conversion. I did the steering column and ignition switch years ago, and I am just finishing up a 964 based 4.0L install. I deleted the DME relay, and went with solid state bosch square relays.

Also, I noticed you have the /4 headlight relay installed. You won't need it with the /6 column.

Let me know if I can help.


Clay


Clay, thanks for the post! Please do-tell, and leave your response here should anyone in the future need any insight. We did find a few ‘funky’ things happening now that we are trying to include the 914/6 steering column, and you have me thinking about that relay.

Also, very excited to hear your thoughts on deleting the DME relay, my conversion is 964 based too.

Thanks in advance, eager to hear from you.

EDIT: Briefly looked over your project thread, really like what you did with the coils below the battery. Again, eager to hear your thoughts on the above!

Posted by: ClayPerrine Aug 26 2019, 11:46 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 25 2019, 09:34 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Aug 25 2019, 07:03 PM) *

Looks like you are doing a bunch of stuff that I have already tackled on my conversion. I did the steering column and ignition switch years ago, and I am just finishing up a 964 based 4.0L install. I deleted the DME relay, and went with solid state bosch square relays.

Also, I noticed you have the /4 headlight relay installed. You won't need it with the /6 column.

Let me know if I can help.


Clay


Clay, thanks for the post! Please do-tell, and leave your response here should anyone in the future need any insight. We did find a few ‘funky’ things happening now that we are trying to include the 914/6 steering column, and you have me thinking about that relay.

Also, very excited to hear your thoughts on deleting the DME relay, my conversion is 964 based too.

Thanks in advance, eager to hear from you.

EDIT: Briefly looked over your project thread, really like what you did with the coils below the battery. Again, eager to hear your thoughts on the above!



The coils are mounted to a factory 914-6 CD box bracket. Makes for a place close to the distributor. I also put the FI grounds on the same post as the negative battery cable, and added a second ground cable to the engine at the right front corner. I wanted to insure a good ground.

I extended the DME harness so I could put the ECU on the front passenger wall. I cut out the foam block (fyi.. it is actually compressed and shellacked sawdust) to fit around it. I had to add a diagnostic plug, so I got a OBD2 plug kit off evilbay, and wired it according to the adapter diagram.

FYI.. 914-6 wiper switch has what looks like a plug for a relay on it. The other end attaches directly to the 914-6 wiper motor. The switch doesn't connect anywhere else, and the only wiring to the 914-6 motor is a single power wire.

If you are going to run anything other than LED bulbs in your headlights, you need to add a headlight relay kit to your wiring. The switch in the column takes the full load of the headlights, so the contacts burn out with any load more than a sealed beam or LED light. I don't want to sound like a shill, but this kit works good: http://www.allzim.com/store/zim-s-12v-bright-light-headlight-relay-kit.html You will have to modify it slightly for a 914.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Clay

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 6 2020, 10:30 PM

Well, back at it on-and-off, and the wiring is proving to be too much for me and my Dad, recently. I don't think it's that it is so difficult, but rather that it's hard to start-and-stop while remembering what work you accomplished in the last session.

Considering, currently, either going with a more modern, simple solution (suggestions welcome) or, taking the harness out of the car that had the 3.6 installed in it previously. I think this would make matters a lot easier, as everything is correctly 'loomed'. All I would have to do is 'adjust' and figure how to integrate the /6 steering column controls (wipers, etc.)

Eager to hear the groups thoughts!

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Posted by: JRust Apr 6 2020, 10:51 PM

I got nothing Rique just glad to see you back at it piratenanner.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Apr 7 2020, 08:07 AM

RiqueMar- I second that. Glad to see you back and making progress on your project. beerchug.gif

Posted by: eric9144 Apr 7 2020, 09:26 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 cheer.gif good to see you back at it

Posted by: Mueller Apr 7 2020, 10:00 AM

That is going to be an awesome car.

You should be able so salvage that harness, I'm thinking if you could get another harness just to use as a reference, if it was still in the reference chassis that might be better.

Use Tesa tape for wiring harness, not PVC electrical tape.

As a side note, I am surprised how well the insulated wire has held up on a 47 year old car. My engine swap I have hooked up the Honda ECU with the 914 harness and fuse block with no real problems. I did eliminate my relay board in the engine compartment.


Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 24 2020, 09:05 PM

Question for those more knowledgable than I...

I've come to recognize that my car will have two wiring systems, the original 'stock' setup that controls wipers, lights, etc and the 3.6 system. My main 'struggle' is recreating the original 'loom' that goes underneath the dash, as all other connections to the turn signals, headlights, etc. are correct.

Is there any significant difference between the years as it comes to wiring? I'm thinking to either 'splice in' the original harness from the black car, or swap it pout completely. If I were to splice, I would 'stager' the connections to not have a 'bulge' in any one-place.

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Posted by: mepstein Apr 24 2020, 09:37 PM

PMS sells a chassis harness adapter cable that connects the 3.6 engines be harness to the 914 chassis harness. There are still a couple other wires to run like fuel pump, tach, dme power but it’s a pretty clean set up.

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 25 2020, 08:51 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 24 2020, 08:37 PM) *

PMS sells a chassis harness adapter cable that connects the 3.6 engines be harness to the 914 chassis harness. There are still a couple other wires to run like fuel pump, tach, dme power but it’s a pretty clean set up.


All good on that front, and I have that harness. Funny enough, the 3.6 integration doesn't concern me, its establishing the 'loom' for the stock wiring.

My main problem is finding the 'form' the harness originally had, and connecting all the stock equipment; Wipers, Hazards, etc.

Posted by: mepstein Apr 25 2020, 09:05 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Apr 25 2020, 10:51 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 24 2020, 08:37 PM) *

PMS sells a chassis harness adapter cable that connects the 3.6 engines be harness to the 914 chassis harness. There are still a couple other wires to run like fuel pump, tach, dme power but it’s a pretty clean set up.


All good on that front, and I have that harness. Funny enough, the 3.6 integration doesn't concern me, its establishing the 'loom' for the stock wiring.

My main problem is finding the 'form' the harness originally had, and connecting all the stock equipment; Wipers, Hazards, etc.


I have a spare midyear harness. If you think it would help, let me know and I'll send it your way.

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 26 2020, 09:22 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 25 2020, 08:05 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Apr 25 2020, 10:51 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 24 2020, 08:37 PM) *

PMS sells a chassis harness adapter cable that connects the 3.6 engines be harness to the 914 chassis harness. There are still a couple other wires to run like fuel pump, tach, dme power but it’s a pretty clean set up.


All good on that front, and I have that harness. Funny enough, the 3.6 integration doesn't concern me, its establishing the 'loom' for the stock wiring.

My main problem is finding the 'form' the harness originally had, and connecting all the stock equipment; Wipers, Hazards, etc.


I have a spare midyear harness. If you think it would help, let me know and I'll send it your way.



Very interested, please PM me. Gracias! smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 26 2020, 10:34 PM

Welp... 'That-is-that'. Harness that was originally 'mated' with the 3.6 is out of the car, and I'm about halfway done cleaning and re-taping it. Using this opportunity to give it a 'deep clean' before pulling my original out and placing this one.

Shout-out to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 for the off of a mid-range!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 27 2020, 10:19 AM

For those following along, this is a great video from the guys at Restoration Design. Whether you are removing or installing a wiring harness.

Really can't recommend it enough....

https://youtu.be/meuFs3HaUj0

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 29 2020, 10:08 AM

Checking in to stay motivated and current....

Very carefully, I'm trying to restore the harness and make it as 'clean' as possible. This includes isolating the leads, shrink-tubing any hot-points, cleaning off 45-years of grit, and re-taping. I originally ordered cloth-tape from 914rubber, however this harness already had some holding it together that was in pretty good condition, so I'm using the 3M version. The cloth-like stuff will be used in the front and rear trunks, with the plan to later convert to safety sheathing.

Pretty straight forward, as everything is connected, my biggest challenge is using reference photos from another thread to get it close to the stock form it once had.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 30 2020, 11:46 PM

I wish I would have done this years ago.

For all of you dealing with a wiring 'rats nest' where you don't even know where to start, find a car with an acceptable harness, and dig in. Rip it out, put it in your car, and move on.

Learn from my mistake. This one cost me several years, and much frustration.



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While intimidating, this only took about 3-4 hours to remove. An additional 3-4 sessions of 2-3 hours were spent cleaning and sorting wires, re-soldering and re-taping. While not completely done (going with cloth tape or safety sheathing in the front/rear trunks), this is finally at the point I can pull pout the existing harness and start running this on my own, and testing devices.

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Posted by: ClayPerrine May 1 2020, 06:51 AM

I realized that I forgot to answer your question about the DME relay.

The DME relay is the evolution of the Double Relay found on the 914 1.8 L-Jet systems. It is two relays in one box, and they are notorious for failing at the wrong time. The failure is due to vibration breaking solder joints in the relay.

If you study the 964 wiring diagram long enough, you will see that the DME relay is internally wired the same way as the relays on the 914-4 relay board. The first relay turns on power to the DME unit, the injectors, and the AFM. It also supplies power to the relay coil for the second relay. The second controls the fuel pump power , and the O2 sensor.

On the first relay, pin 30 gets power straight from the battery. Pin 86 is grounded. Pin 85 gets power from the ignition switch. Pin 87 is a red/white striped wire that supplies the power to the harness. It also supplies power to the second relay.

The second relay gets power on pin 30 and from the first relay. Pin 85 comes from the battery, and pin 86 goes to the fuel pump and O2 sensor. Pin 87 goes to the DME fuel pump wire. When the DME sees pulses on the crank sensor, it grounds the wire hooked to pin 87, and the fuel pump runs.


I am currently collecting the parts to build a brand new DME harness correctly wired for a 914. It will plug into the 914-4 relay board, and use the relays on it for the DME power. They are already wired correctly. I intend to find the guy selling refurbished relay boards and buy one. Once done, the DME wiring will be clean and easy to troubleshoot.

I am even going to draw up a wiring diagram for it. :-)

And after doing some research, I am going to upgrade my coils to the 993 coil pack setup. Porsche recommends it for the 964. They will be mounted in the same place as they are now.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Clay

Posted by: RiqueMar May 1 2020, 09:11 AM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ May 1 2020, 05:51 AM) *

I realized that I forgot to answer your question about the DME relay.

The DME relay is the evolution of the Double Relay found on the 914 1.8 L-Jet systems. It is two relays in one box, and they are notorious for failing at the wrong time. The failure is due to vibration breaking solder joints in the relay.

If you study the 964 wiring diagram long enough, you will see that the DME relay is internally wired the same way as the relays on the 914-4 relay board. The first relay turns on power to the DME unit, the injectors, and the AFM. It also supplies power to the relay coil for the second relay. The second controls the fuel pump power , and the O2 sensor.

On the first relay, pin 30 gets power straight from the battery. Pin 86 is grounded. Pin 85 gets power from the ignition switch. Pin 87 is a red/white striped wire that supplies the power to the harness. It also supplies power to the second relay.

The second relay gets power on pin 30 and from the first relay. Pin 85 comes from the battery, and pin 86 goes to the fuel pump and O2 sensor. Pin 87 goes to the DME fuel pump wire. When the DME sees pulses on the crank sensor, it grounds the wire hooked to pin 87, and the fuel pump runs.


I am currently collecting the parts to build a brand new DME harness correctly wired for a 914. It will plug into the 914-4 relay board, and use the relays on it for the DME power. They are already wired correctly. I intend to find the guy selling refurbished relay boards and buy one. Once done, the DME wiring will be clean and easy to troubleshoot.

I am even going to draw up a wiring diagram for it. :-)

And after doing some research, I am going to upgrade my coils to the 993 coil pack setup. Porsche recommends it for the 964. They will be mounted in the same place as they are now.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Clay


Gracias! Looking forward to it!

Posted by: RiqueMar May 3 2020, 02:49 PM

Currently running the 3.6 harness.

Goodbye and GOOD RIDDANCE to the old!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 3 2020, 02:58 PM

Pop quiz....

Any 'Pro-Tips' for getting this grommet to fit? Main grommet located just by the board that leads to the front trunk / gas tackle area.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 4 2020, 12:26 PM

Note for anyone following along, and conducting a similar swap:

Not sure of the specifics between years, but there are some differences between a late harness and an early harness. Also, some notes to keep in mind if you're replacing / refurbishing your harness.

- Running the harness: The locations of the 'tabs' or clips located behind the pedals are about 2-3 inches higher on later cars than early cars. This makes the length of the harness slightly different, but most affects how the harness is loomed. You have to get creative, and be patient, around the point where the grounds are, next to the fuse board. As the harness flows differently, this area gets very tight (Trunk release, speaker pods, etc).


If refurbishing, tape your harness, but do not use so much tape as to make it inflexible. I made this mistake, and it took a bit of 'massaging' to get everything to sit right.




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- Grommet sizes: Some small diameter differences between early and late. Picture below, a late grommet (large) vs an early. Not necessarily a big problem, however the hole to pass the grommet through is closer to the fuse-board on the early cars, whereas on the later cars, it's closer to the gas tank. I suppose you could use an early grommet on a later car, but this just won't work with a later grommet on an early car.

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- Running the harness through the firewall: Big item...

Tape your leads! Tape your leads! Tape your leads!

It is very easy to get 'caught up' and snagged. Even though I taped my harness to maintain all the lengths, this happened to me, and I should have used more. I got frustrated, and starting pulling and pushing harder, and almost ruined a lot of the work I had done when organizing the harness before extracting it from the previous car. Furthermore, using lube makes it even easier for the leads and branches to 'slip out'. This oversight nearly ruined the whole conversion, and ended up costing me 1-2 hours after everything was in getting the lengths right.

Additionally, take plenty of pictures, from multiple angles, before starting anything tricky. In this example, I had to do that with the pinned connector that goes in the engine bay. It needed to be removed, disassembled, and reassembled.



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- Repairs: Once in, use this opportunity to fix any questionable or broken wires and connections.

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- Patience: You're going to experience some compromising and uncomfortable situations during this little exercise. Give yourself plenty of checkpoints to take a break. In some cases, walk away if you are getting frustrated, and start on another section.

All-in-all, installing this harness took me about 9-12 hours, not including prep, cleaning, research and planning.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 4 2020, 03:09 PM

Finally, something else to share besides wiring...

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 6 2020, 04:27 PM

Moving along, received a shipment from 914rubber.com! smilie_pokal.gif
Hats off to Mark, as I made the mistake of not differentiating between my 'Cart' and 'Wishlist', so my order was split in-two (d'oh). headbang.gif

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No matter, moving along with wrapping up the wiring, installing the front and rear trunk components, and cleaning up the wiring in the center tunnel. I must confess, I did use 'butt-connectors' (shame on me) for the lower gauge cables.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 6 2020, 04:32 PM

For the main power, I've sourced the below parts from Amazon for hot leads and to have a '12v Pick-up' in the front trunk. Power distribution block will be located near the battery, somewhere in the general 'hell-hole' area (suggestions welcome). The bulkhead connector will go somewhere on the front trunk bulkhead, and power equipment in front with its own dedicated line and set of fuses (Oil Cooler, Fuel-pump, possibly an amp).

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 9 2020, 02:16 PM

New components going in! Yesterday was spent focusing on batter wiring and power distribution. Ended up installing the following with the 4-positive (+) ports, as well as running a dedicated ground cable for the ECU. Everything gets safety sheathing. Also, 2x new battery cables, each are 2-gauge @ 24" and make for a very clean install.

- 2x 10 gauge - Stock 914 wiring
- 2x 10 gauge - Stock 914 wiring
- 2x 10 gauge - 1 to front trunk (Oil cooler fans, fuel pump, etc.) / 1 reserve (center console).
- 1x 12 gauge (Orange) - Dedicated to Bosche 3.6 ECU.

- 2x 14 gauge (Brown) - Dedicated ground for the ECU.

I've got the general form for the ECU wiring, just need to clean-up the former wiring, but I think you'll get the picture. From here, the cables going from the ECU to the front and dash also get safety sheathing, whereas the stock wiring will just get taped in the factory manner. Overall goal is to separate the old from the new, while still remembering the 70's methods.

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Posted by: Mueller May 9 2020, 04:59 PM

Look'n good. Man that is a lot of work!

Posted by: RiqueMar May 9 2020, 07:27 PM

QUOTE(Mueller @ May 9 2020, 03:59 PM) *

Look'n good. Man that is a lot of work!


You said it! It's a bit difficult right now because as I'm installing the harness, I'm deleting connectors and runs that are not necessary or applicable to the conversion. Additionally, while I'm not an expert by any means, there was a lot of 'stitched together' wires that makes it a bit harder to decode. Though it gets tedious, I learned my lesson last time - get it operational, then route it correctly. To add to that, bringing over the original harness that was mated to the 3.6 was the best decision I made in a decade! Everything is progressing forward, and I can start unboxing all the equipment I had saved up (Switches, Lights, etc)

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As for the rest of the days progress, I'm still cleaning up the harness and new connections with safety sheathing, and beginning to decode and clean up the wiring at the the gauges. To try to expedite, I prepped and painted the dash so that it can dry and cure as I progress on other things. Undercoating below, and a VHT product that I found for Roll bar and Chassis paint. Hopefully, curing over night will be enough, and I can start laying down dash vinyl tomorrow, and the Dash top when it gets here next week.

Pro-tip: SO MUCH easier to work on the dash and vinyl while OUT of the car.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 9 2020, 07:33 PM

Question for the pros:

Ordered a lot of stuff from 914rubber.com (thanks to everyone there, btw). I've laid out the front trunk main seal, but I'm not sure which side is up-or-down. Also, for those that have installed this, do I need any adhesive? My memory tells me I don't however I bought some from pep-boys, and I'm thinking to put a small bead in the corners.

Thanks in advance!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 12 2020, 10:52 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 9 2020, 06:33 PM) *

Question for the pros:

Ordered a lot of stuff from 914rubber.com (thanks to everyone there, btw). I've laid out the front trunk main seal, but I'm not sure which side is up-or-down. Also, for those that have installed this, do I need any adhesive? My memory tells me I don't however I bought some from pep-boys, and I'm thinking to put a small bead in the corners.

Thanks in advance!

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As to the last post; For reference, the 'top' of the seal is the last photo. Hope this helps with anyone reading this!

Posted by: mepstein May 12 2020, 10:57 AM

E - Is your father going to complete his car?

Posted by: RiqueMar May 12 2020, 11:28 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ May 12 2020, 09:57 AM) *

E - Is your father going to complete his car?


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - No plans not to! Most everything I'm doing on mine, I'm 'practicing' for his. Finishing up his 6 should be much easier; The stock wiring is there, he's going with the carb'd 2.9 seen earlier in this thread, and we have most all the parts.

-----------

Spent the majority of the weekend shifting focus from the wiring, which is coming together, to the dash so that I can start verifying function, turning items 'on', and work in a bit of a cleaner manner. Top-pad for the dash expected today, thanks again to 914rubber.com, so I wanted to get the front-face completed.

Researching the different methods on the site, I went with 3M Adhesive spray (level 90, in the green can). Taped off each of the areas to not get a lot of overspray, and went with a perforated micro-dot pattern. I wanted to use a single piece, as I don't like the stock look of the dash broken up in different places by the radio plate and such. Though it was intimidating, so long as you do the proper prep work (plan it out, have all tools ready, wait for the adhesive to properly 'set up') this is something that is pretty easy. Mark off your general size, spray both sides, place the material, massage it into the crevices, and trim.

I'm really liking the way the micro-dot / perforated material looks on the dash face. So much so, I grabbed some spare parts to see how it will look with the components mounted. Eager to get the kit from 914rubber, and get this dash in the car today / tomorrow! bye1.gif

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Posted by: sixnotfour May 12 2020, 11:31 AM

beerchug.gif beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 12 2020, 11:42 AM

Prepping the fuel tank area before placing the tank, adding hose clamps and hardware to the blower motor and vents. I'm taking a 'while I'm in the area' approach, and cleaning the dust and debris that has gathered over the last 10 years of starting / stopping work. I ended up removing, and reciting the blower motor inside to be true satin black, as well as touched up the black rubberized undercoating in the front trunk.

Though this is a 'home build', I'm really trying to make everything look as immaculate and cleanly-done as possible.

NOTE: While I'm here, does anyone have a diagram of how to correctly connect the wires from the heater control to the vents?

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Posted by: eric9144 May 12 2020, 12:10 PM

Awesome progress @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 beerchug.gif first.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 13 2020, 06:28 PM

Received these today; Shout out to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=16669 , cannot wait to get them on. This will be one of those little details that people and myself notice. Also, make sure to hop on over and check out his search and keychains, very cool!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 14 2020, 06:10 PM

Dash top-padding.... Easier than I thought. Note to all those following along, that will do a similar project, and have ordered from http://www.914rubber.com. The black (darker) side material goes down and mates to the dash, whereas the grey (lighter) side of the material goes up, and will mate with the vinyl. The 'pad' portion goes just up to the edge of the dash and vents, whereas the finished material wraps around and over.

Really liking how this turned out, and hats off to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3348 and the team at 914rubber for a very nice product. I did make one small 'knick' just behind the gauge cluster (got a bit too cavalier with 'trimming), hopefully the dash-pad will cover it!

Helpful tip: I used a bit of painters tape around the edges to make sure the curved portion 'holds down' and doesn't release. Other than than, be sure to not push down too hard when setting down the material, this may create 'dimples' all over the dash top, which are super noticeable once the car is outside.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 14 2020, 06:19 PM

Cruising through old-posts on this site to see if there were any helpful tips before putting in the dash, I did run into one that was great. Prior to setting it in, I cleaned out the defroster vents along the front windscreen (very easy is the windshield out), and sprayed with a bit of interior satin black paint to give it a fresh look (I used SEMs).

From what I understand, this is something that the factory did, and I'm glad I ran across this off-hand tip. Oh, ALSO, if you can, replace the bottom 'liner' that goes around the vents, that sits underneath the dash... you're there anyway!

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Posted by: Mikey914 May 14 2020, 08:19 PM

Look'n sharp can't wait to see the completed project. You are taking your time and not rushing. That is the real key with many of these projects. It's a big project, but by taking your time and working out the details as you move forward it will show when complete. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 15 2020, 01:33 AM

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ May 14 2020, 07:19 PM) *

Look'n sharp can't wait to see the completed project. You are taking your time and not rushing. That is the real key with many of these projects. It's a big project, but by taking your time and working out the details as you move forward it will show when complete. beerchug.gif



All with the help of great vendors and a great community! welcome.png

Posted by: RiqueMar May 15 2020, 01:43 AM

THE. DASH. IS. IN! smilie_pokal.gif

... Just as putting on the top-pad was easier than I expected, putting in the dash was HARDER than I expected. I definitely wish I had a second set of hands, because it is a lot of small adjustments, all while being carful not to push too hard on. the new vinyl and padding. My mistake to avoid; remove everything from the car interior, so it is easy to stand inside the cab and set in the dash. you do not want to step on any stray wires, equipment, parts, etc.

Once in, its just a matter of securing the bolts (located in the fuel area). This is a bit difficult with a standard 10mm wrench/socket set, and I image it would be a lot easier with all the equipment (Blower, vents, hoses, etc.) out of the way. Frankly, I don't know how I could have done this patiently with the windshield installed.

Once the dash is in, its a sight-to-see! I plan on running a 914/6 style steering column and cutting the column wires to match, more on that later, and two more pull-type switches to the right of the the column for seat heaters, rear defrost, manual oil cooler ON, or USB charging port.

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Posted by: Cairo94507 May 15 2020, 08:27 AM

I am so glad to see this project back on track. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 16 2020, 07:22 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ May 15 2020, 07:27 AM) *

I am so glad to see this project back on track. beerchug.gif



Just trying to hold a candle to your build @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 !


Quick question for anyone active right now... I’m running the Camp 914 style ‘Pilot Lights’ and have long lost the paperwork. Is it recommended to connect then just as the stock fog-lights? I see there is an inline fuse on one of the legs.

Posted by: racerx9146 May 16 2020, 11:02 PM

Nice job on the harness. Lots of work tracing out everything. Looks like you have it all sorted but just in car here is a diagram I made when I did mine.

Daron

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 01:23 PM


I think I had seen this before, very helpful, thank you @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1483

Posted by: SirAndy May 18 2020, 01:47 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Aug 25 2019, 07:34 PM) *
really like what you did with the coils below the battery

I mounted the coils to the fan shroud right next (above) the distributors.
bye1.gif

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Posted by: mepstein May 18 2020, 01:58 PM

QUOTE(racerx9146 @ May 17 2020, 01:02 AM) *

Nice job on the harness. Lots of work tracing out everything. Looks like you have it all sorted but just in car here is a diagram I made when I did mine.

Daron

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I wish someone had made one for a 3.2. I can actually understand it. Mostly. beerchug.gif
@racerx914

Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 05:36 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 06:10 PM

Before my next update, wanted to take a moment to highlight' a product that I purchased through another member, and see if anyone else has feedback on some of the things I'm struggling with.

I purchased the Auto-Atlanta 'Body Hardware Kit' and am really struggling with 'what-is-what' in the kit, and I'm someone that's pretty familiar with hardware organization. To be sure, it's a marked improvement preferable to running off to the hardware store everytime I find something lacking, however, I think the organization is very vague and would need to significantly improve before recommending this to anyone else.

The Pros: clap56.gif
- Looks like or close to original hardware
- The 3-piece set comes with a small .pdf inventory

The Cons: WTF.gif
- Limited to the 'interior' of the car (title states 'body', a bit confusing)
- Not very organized. Though it comes with a doc showing an inventory, it's difficult and tedious to determine which bin corresponds to which item on the inventory. This would be much easier if there were some sort of number designation (Bin 1... 2... 3... etc.) or a dedicated sheet to each bin. Even a small card in each bin would suffice and take away a lot of my guesswork.
- I wish there where more to it. Reading deeper into AA's site, I see there are separate kits for different areas; Dashboard mounting, Seat rails, etc. But, aren't both of these part of the interior?

Summary type.gif
It's an 'OK' start, but I feel like this product needs work. An 'easy-win' for Auto Atlanta would be a clearer way of product designation and description. I'm not a fan of criticizing 'the one who is doing', however after buying this product, even from someone who didn't end up using it, I don't feel that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling that comes along with a good-purchase.

.... But hey, what do I know?


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Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 06:28 PM

Moving on, taking just a small break from wiring, I decided to focus on some of the new items coming in from vendors and private sellers. You know who you are, thanks to you all!

First up, doors, trim and 'skid-plates'. These were fairly easy to get in, really well made from 914rubber.com. Small tip: Use a rubber mallet for the door panel inner rubber smash.gif . The pieces from 914rubber.com are high-quality, and the interior support is a little tricky to get on. My only issue seems to be with the absolute last screw on the drivers-side entry. For some reason, I cannot get that last guy in. The only thing I can think of is that the bolt-head broke off at some point, and not the body is sitting inside.

Next, the outer door seals and the front and rear bulkhead seals. Same technique used here, gently massaging it on and when needed, bashing it with a rubber mallet. Thats it for now, going to get on more nice pieces and convince myself this is more important than my gauges at the moment.

smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif

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Posted by: SirAndy May 18 2020, 06:49 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 18 2020, 04:36 PM) *
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

If i remember correctly, my mounting bracket came from PMS. It's been on there for 10+ years without any issues.
beerchug.gif


Posted by: SirAndy May 18 2020, 06:52 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 18 2020, 05:49 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 18 2020, 04:36 PM) *
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

If i remember correctly, my mounting bracket came from PMS. It's been on there for 10+ years without any issues.
beerchug.gif

https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/eng-993-602-cam-pmp
smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 10:43 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1483 question for you.... On your conversion, did you by any chance use the Patrick Motorsport conv. harnesses?

Posted by: RiqueMar May 18 2020, 11:24 PM

On todays episode of 'Completely Overdoing it with Enrique' - Electrical work continues! The front trunk and all the stock equipment (Headlights, Turn-signals, Horns, etc.) are done. Wherever I could, I harvested elements of my old harness, and tied them into the new, making sure the wire colors and designations match. Wherever the connections exit the body, such as with the fog-lights and horns, I've wrapped the new connections in safety sheathing, and soldered them into the existing harness.

A bit more work than I expected, as I had to partially un-wrap the harnesss along the front-trunk wall, but very happy with the result, and the fact that everything is soldered, wrapped, has new grommets/fittings, and is color-correct. Now, save for the oil-cooler and fuel-pump, the front trunk wiring is complete. Need to verify cable connections on the blower motor and air-vents, and reassemble.

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Posted by: eric9144 May 19 2020, 09:01 AM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 18 2020, 05:52 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 18 2020, 05:49 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 18 2020, 04:36 PM) *
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

If i remember correctly, my mounting bracket came from PMS. It's been on there for 10+ years without any issues.
beerchug.gif

https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/eng-993-602-cam-pmp
smile.gif

My build uses that bracket also

Posted by: ClayPerrine May 19 2020, 02:25 PM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 19 2020, 10:01 AM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 18 2020, 05:52 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 18 2020, 05:49 PM) *

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 18 2020, 04:36 PM) *
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

If i remember correctly, my mounting bracket came from PMS. It's been on there for 10+ years without any issues.
beerchug.gif

https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/eng-993-602-cam-pmp
smile.gif

My build uses that bracket also

I still have 964 coils, but when I upgrade, I will put them where they are now, on a 914-6 CD box bracket bolted to the battery tray. All the wiring is already located there.


Posted by: RiqueMar May 20 2020, 11:29 AM

Continuing on the wiring at the gauges, and its a bit of a mess (more on that later). For now, I've focused on installing the small items, and have been looking for the 'easy wins' throughout the car. While these are simple things, its nice to see the car getting new and reconditioned parts, and touched up wherever needed.

One thing I will mention though, the small parts add up; New rubber, seals, reconditioned locks, odds-and-ends, and its not nearly as 'fun' as buying a new suspension or motor or interior parts. It's tedious. My advice for anyone imparting on a project like this, invest in zip-log bags, boxes and totes. It is so easy to take off bolts, and just throw them in a box and label interior.... and then that box gets lost. Use the bags, throw the part or bolt or screw in a bag or box, and write on it with a sharpie. 'Future you' will thank 'past you'.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 21 2020, 01:04 AM

I was very hesitant about putting on the Large Main Seal, as I understood it is a pain in the ass. I'm happy to say that after a brief search on here, and finding this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=337114 and this video by 914rubber https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui-GSfUS7ak its very easy. Seriously, the whole process only took me about 1hr 30 min, including setup, install, and probably a few distractions along the way.

Before I go over the process, a few items...

- The first assumption people make regarding this seal install is that it slides in from the top. I don't know why I thought this at first, it's gotta be close to impossible especially with a new / reproduction seal. Instead of sliding the seal in from the top, you'll place it in with one side (interior), then work in the outer (exterior facing) side.
- Use standard hand soap as a lubricant, as directed in the video. Its both slippery enough, and not so much that you lose control of the part that you're trying to handle.
- For the tool to pry and work in the seal, I used a standard size flat-head screwdriver. For those of us, like me, that have blacked out the chrome on the trim, I didn't want to lose control and knock the trim.
- The hardest part is the beginning, placing the seal to insert the screw and the 'curve' at the top of the windshield structure.

I first placed the seal as it's directed in the video. I did find that, as Matt directed, you will have to clip or trim the bracket that attaches to the windshield. Big shears did it for me, and it was almost 'level' with the body piece.

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On this next step, I found it easier to divert a bit from the video instructions; Once you're able to correctly place the piece and the set-screw, I left the set screw off for the time being, and didn't place it until both sides were done. Starting with the Drivers side, I lined up the seal and placed the side that is closest to the interior of the car in the 'slot'. From there, I used the flathead screwdriver and 'worked in' the outer side. Each time I pushed in with the tool, about 1/2 an inch would slowly work itself into the channel. As I said before, the top is the hardest. Once you get a rhythm going, its pretty easy. You do not have to necessarily alternate between front and back, as the back slides in about 4-6 inches at a time.

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With the Drivers side complete (it should be a bit long, recommend letting it rest before trimming), I repeated the process on the passenger side. Same thing, place the rubber, omit the set screw for now, and start working it in. Same on this side, it will be a bit long, wait to trim it. With the seal in and secure on both sides, I used my rubber mallet to very lightly tap in the piece that runs along the length of the windshield connecting the two sides. This pieces is very easy to get on, and at some points, I didn't use the hammer and just tapped it in with the palm of my hand. Its at this point, I put in the set screws on either side.

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With all that complete, the final trick is to install the 'Lower Targa Mainseal', which is a joke compared to the process of the Main seal. Simply place it int he correct orientation and begin pushing it in. Once it's all the way in, spanning the length of the windshield, you can push or pull it to center it as you like. NOTE: Looking through the site, reference photos and diagrams, it was confusing to me which side was top, bottom, in, and out, so I included a photo. After thats in, start putting in your interior!

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Posted by: racerx9146 May 21 2020, 10:34 PM

Nope the Partrick thing is just a jumper harness and creates a much mess as it fixes. I got the 964 wiring diagram and just started labelling wires and removing stuff I did not need. It somewhat depends where you are going to mount the ECU. Based on what you have done with the rest of the car this will be cake for you.

regards Daron

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ May 18 2020, 09:43 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1483 question for you.... On your conversion, did you by any chance use the Patrick Motorsport conv. harnesses?


Posted by: FourBlades May 22 2020, 06:23 AM


Great build, you are making great progress. beer3.gif

I like all the details you post, really tells the story.

You are not kidding on all the little nick knacks and pieces you have to buy, they really add up, along with paints, hardware, clamps, etc.

John

Posted by: RiqueMar May 22 2020, 01:46 PM

QUOTE(FourBlades @ May 22 2020, 05:23 AM) *

Great build, you are making great progress. beer3.gif

I like all the details you post, really tells the story.

You are not kidding on all the little nick knacks and pieces you have to buy, they really add up, along with paints, hardware, clamps, etc.

John


Thank you! I'm not sure what's worse, the 'nickel and dime'-ing aspect of missing parts, or getting into a rhythm, and then having to stop because you need another metric bolt, screw or nut.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 22 2020, 02:17 PM

As of yesterday, we are turning stuff on!

Using the /6 ignition switch, now able to 'crank' and activate the starter as well as activate the Headlight motors, Hazards and running lights. Compared to the initial setup and testing we did with the original harness, everything is going very smoothly. Fuses in, battery in, and starting to turn stuff on. Listed below, very helpful resource from @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=104 and his site listed below for the front turn signal lights.

Later today, I'm going to be taking the column off the black car to test the wipers, turn signals and high beams. Once that is tested and everything is working, we will then tie-in the 914/6 ignition switch and steering column. After that, on to the matter of setting up the gauges. This will be a bit more complicated, as the previous owner didn't use a specific wiring color / pattern, and its a mess.

Any 3.6 guys reading, your help is appreciated in regards to gauge wiring and coloring!

Not there yet, but this is certainly a big step!

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 24 2020, 11:27 AM

This post is all about salvaging and reconditioning parts....

More equipment going on! Friday, I was able to head over to my Fathers garage and grab a few donor pieces off of the car the 3.6 was originally in; Interior pieces, heater control and cables, etc. Additionally, with a small trip up north to Riverside I was able to purchase a few new shiny and missing bits, thanks to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1319 . At this point all I need is the Targa roll-bar pad for the interior, as the one of the donor car had a crack in it.

After cleaning each of the parts (I was happy to find all were in really good condition) I decided to start with the gas tank, expansion tank, and charcoal canister. As the expansion tank got a new coat of paint, I set off on the charcoal canister. For some reason, maybe the awkward shape of the Gas tank, it was pretty difficult to fit the charcoal canister with the stock bracket. I don't know why it gave me such difficulty, and I didn't necessarily find a 'trick' to getting it on there. I suppose its one of those things thats just easy with 3 hands.

Frustrated after the charcoal canister, 'That took way too long' I took a break and moved on to easier items, new door sensors and rubber seals from 914rubber, and beginning to put on the engine grill.

Originally, I thought I would paint the supports that are below the engine grille mesh, but test fitting the pieces, I actually like the look of the body-color below the satin black pieces. I'll leave it body-color for now, I can always paint it later.

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Posted by: eric9144 May 24 2020, 05:48 PM

Going to be ready to drive in 2 weeks for the Corona run? poke.gif
Seriously though, awesome progress!

Posted by: RiqueMar May 24 2020, 06:27 PM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 24 2020, 04:48 PM) *

Going to be ready to drive in 2 weeks for the Corona run? poke.gif
Seriously though, awesome progress!



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12876 not a chance, but I'll still be there in something.

Question for guys with later cars / harnesses; Is there any reason I need to keep the interlock system located before the passenger seat? I know I can engage the starter by linking the Yellow and Yellow and Red wires, but I'm concerned that some items won't activate, as I see some leads are the same colors. Is it possible for me to solder leads together and completely remove the equipment?

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Posted by: Cairo94507 May 25 2020, 07:19 AM

Great progress. Can't wait to see it running. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar May 25 2020, 06:31 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ May 25 2020, 06:19 AM) *

Great progress. Can't wait to see it running. beerchug.gif


Gracias @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 hope to be driving by you soon! beerchug.gif

With much help from the site by @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=104 and the reference photos I took before removing the harness from the donor car, I was able to reconnect and refurbish everything the corresponds and connects to the seat belt interlock / interrupt. The setup was different from the schematic drawn on the site, so I had to rely heavily on the photos taken before removal, with my theory being 'It worked before'. The only wire I couldn't find is a small Yellow w/ White-stripe that goes in the bottom left corner of the system, however as I'm wagering that these are for the seat belt sensors themselves, it should be easy to 'T-off' the existing yellow with white if I need to.

Parallel to this, I'm also wrapping up the wiring in this area for the ECU and am beginning to shorten and lengthen wires to make it clean. I'm not exactly sure where I will put this module, but I've extended the ground to reach either a ground-point I created for the ECU (behind the passenger seat) or the center console.... I'm leaning more toward the center console. Once complete, I'll wrap this with the 'factory look' tape.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 25 2020, 06:46 PM

Second post today.I'm trying to keep each entry separate for anyone reading along, working on a similar project... and also to keep my focus. screwy.gif

With a lot of help from my Father today, dash controls (aside from the 914/6 column and harness) are complete. Trying ton compare 'apples to apples', currently using a late-model 914-4 steering column control. Headlights, Headlight motors, Foglights, Horn, Wipers, and Air-blower are complete and working. For those following along, and also converting to a 914/6 column, see input on page 40 of this blog by @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 regarding headlight relays / LEDs. Trying to make things as uncomplicated as possible, I will most likely go with LEDs. In short, converting to the stock-6 column, the headlight switch takes the full load and burns out, you have two options; Run LEDs or incorporate relays.

PS, If I'm 'tagging' or 'linking' to anyone and mentioning user-names here, it's because I found your input valuable for myself and others. I find it easier and a better resource, as sometimes there can be SO much information when one does a search. Sorry if it gets annoying, but wear it as a badge of honor.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 26 2020, 07:43 PM

I’ve put it off long enough..... Beginning to route the junction point that includes the ECU, diagnostic port and relays. Though it took a bit of decoding, once the wires were run up the center-tunnel, and connected to where they were before in the old car, it started to make sense. This is no where near the finished product, just using butt connectors and make-female connectors to get the shape for now.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 28 2020, 12:47 AM

Taking a break from the back, I'm starting from the front. It was getting too complicated without knowing which wires correspond to each connection. Starting with the gauges, I've once again 'harvested' wires from the '70 harness, and tidying up and eliminating connections; Airbag status light, Trunk ajar warning light, etc.

Pretty easy right now, Fuel gauge, Oil Level and Clock with status lights crossed off, and working my way through. Hopefully, tomorrow or this weekend, I'll be able to lengthen the wires with the correct color and make this look more clean. I'll update for anyone with a similar project, spreadsheet below.

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 28 2020, 01:12 PM

Station-break....

Unfortunately, due to the current health crisis, we had a Death in the family. Preparing for the funeral tomorrow, I have the bittersweet task of going through old-photos and assembling a sort of memorial slideshow. The silver-lining in the task is that I get to recall a lot of nice memories with my Grandfather. Amongst others, I stumbled onto this photo on my Fathers social media, probably my first ride in a 914.

.... Where it all began!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 1 2020, 04:28 PM

Hi all, hope everyone is well! I was able to use the weekend, and 'distract' myself with the pending items on the car.

First up, I want to make sure the status lights on the gauges and such are working correctly; Check engine light, Light indicator, Low Fuel, etc. I have a few 'holes' in my wiring spreadsheet, however everything is progressing nicely there, and I think it might be time to get a professionals eyes on it soon. In the interim, and to 'ease' the mechanics bill, I lengthened and shortened wires where needed and cleaned everything up.

There were ALOT of spliced wires, so I made a dedicated ground lead and 'daisy' chain as well as extended the wires for the gauges that will be in the center console with the correct color (Fuel gauge, Running lights, 12v ignition on, etc.) Previously, it was very confusing as some wires would turn from white... to green... to brown. headbang.gif All clean and tidy now, so much so that I could test-fit my top dashpad

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 1 2020, 04:34 PM

Further into the weekend (and further procrastinating about the ECU harness), I decided to make a storage run and collect my bumpers and some trim pieces. Happy to say, all are and were in very good condition, aside from years of dust, including the bumper-tops.

Being a bit of a 'perfectionist', I decided to sand down both the front and rear bumper and add a bit of filler to a few 'knicks' in the surface. The are set to be satin black, like the rest of the trim. As those items cured or setup, I spent a few hours 'roughing up' my foglight grilles that will also being going satin.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 3 2020, 11:50 PM

As of yesterday, this is back at my parents 'Ranch' to get a few cosmetic touch-ups as well as fitted for the rockers, GT cutout on the front bumper (changed my mind on that one... looks funky without it) and valences (anyone got a /6 rear?). As we transported, and got it on the 2-post lift, I was happy to see it in the sun for the first time in a while. Also, special appearance by my Moms Dog, Brando.

Man! Do I love those tires and wheels, no-chrome, and that Signal Orange! signal914.jpg



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Posted by: Root_Werks Jun 4 2020, 05:02 PM

Starting to look like a drive-able 914 again!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2020, 12:44 PM

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Jun 4 2020, 04:02 PM) *

Starting to look like a drive-able 914 again!


Gracias @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=2105 !

Car is now airborne again, and final body and paint work starts today! I anticipate 2-4 weeks of miscellaneous body-work items. First order is mounting the side-skirts and the front valence as well as the front bumper to line up everything for the GT cutout. A little more on that in a second - so hang on. After the side-skirts and front pieces are complete, plan to move to the back and, hopefully, find a /6 valence or replica. If I can't, I suppose I'll modify the stock /4 valence and, omitting the 'cutouts' just notch both sides for a dual exhaust.

Now, a bit of homework on the GT cutout bumper. There is a great thread on this site started sometime in 2018 with the main contributors being @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9892 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=16669

Link here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=333200&hl=GT+Bumper

Additionally, I can't remember if I found the following passage from that same thread, or a different, but this is very helpful to start...

“... I did 1 sample cut out today. Went extremly smooth. Measured center of bumper then 10 inches each direction. Then measured up 1-7\8" from the bottom and made my cuts. With the reinforcement welded in I will be at approximatly 1-3/4"× 19-7/8" which then makes it blend into the bottom valance. There is also decent space between the bumper and valance to give an optical illusion thus the reason I sized it that way...”

For my project, I'm toying with the idea of doing something a bit different. Rather than matching the 'outward' lines determined by the valence. This way, the valence opening points outward and up, and the bumper cutout points outward and down, in a sort of oblong-hexagon shape...... We'll see.

As the bodywork is getting completed, I'm trying to take as much advantage of the 2-post lift while I can, wrapping up the oil-line mounting, side-skirts, clutch/accelerator/ebrake/heater cables, heater hoses, and any remaining electronics. In order to tackle each of these, I gotta finish what's not completed... Steering column and ignition wiring, ECU, Fuel pump and Oil Cooler.

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First the 914/6 steering column. As for the mounting, while it is pretty straight forward there's a 'pro-tip' here that I would imagine is applicable to most any year. First, insert the steering column half shaft (the part with the 'bar' and 2 U-joints on either end) but don't connect it to the steering rack (protruding out of the front fire-wall). Once placed, pull it out of the front of the dash, and line up the splines and 'slot' so that you can put in the retaining bolt (helps to have a mallet and a bit of grease) on the u-joint closest to the Driver. Slide it in, put in the bolt, and secure it now, it's a pain-in-the-ass to do it once installed. With the top portion done and just kinda hanging there, line up and repeat the same process on the lower u-joint which should be significantly easier, and secure. Once all that is complete, and checked, secure your steering to the support using 4x 8mm bolts (stock was 8mm Allen head, but I used hex with pressure washer, shouldn't matter).

With the 914/6 steering column mounted, I'm moving to wrap up the wiring in that section. As I mentioned in a separate post (link below), I was having a bit of trouble discerning which-color corresponds to which-equipment / function (having a bit of trouble getting my hands on a 914/6 wiring diagram). Currently, plan is to modify the 3.6 harness with a female 12-pin connector so the column 'plugs in' to the harness like a factory model. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

Link: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=346298&st=0&gopid=2823255&#entry2823255

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2020, 11:41 AM

A bit late on this post, but wanted to share a few photos of the June 6th 'Corona Run' in Southern California. While the car isn't done, obviously, it was a lot of fun and great to see such a strong turnout (around 50 cars if I remember correctly).

More pictures to be found on a page I'm starting focused on 914s and all things Porsche - instagram handle @914seis.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 12 2020, 02:05 PM

Work continues on the 914/6 steering column! Small progress, but a big hurdle. While this project isn't to make a 'Six-clone', I do want to match the wiring scheme somewhat (just ignore that 3.6 ECU and conversion equipment) and have the wiring scheme make sense. A big part of this is matching the 12-pin connector found on the 914/6 column with the 914/4 harness I have. Luckily, having an old-harness to harvest from I was able to de-solder the female pin connectors, and then re-solder them on to matching wires. From there, I simply used the 'male' side of the harness to match up the 2 pieces.

Shout-out to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=643 for coming in with a replacement connector after finding out mine was damaged. Now, it seems like its just a matter of connecting the right-wire with the right function (Turn signal, High-Beam, etc.).

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 13 2020, 10:29 PM

Bodywork on the car is in full swing! I can’t seem to remember where I purchased the front valence, but it did need a bit of work. Split down the middle, widening, and adjustments on the sides right below the wheel-wells / flares. Happy to say though, it’s coming along nicely.

As for the side-skirts, these need very little work. Pro-tip, if installing flares, get these before cutting and welding, and it will save you one-big headache. Figment seems good, just need to install a few spacers and bolt in!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 14 2020, 08:01 PM

A few photos from today’s progress, not much to update on as the photos speak for themselves. One small note that I would like to add... we ended up glassing in the two mounting bolts on the front part of the valence. This makes it a lot easier to take off and remount.

As Joe continued work on the valences and side-skirts, I’m trying to take this opportunity to ‘clean up’ and ‘restore’ as many pieces of the car as I can. First up, trunk hardware, seat rails and brackets. Sandblast, clean, tape-off, paint and repeat. It’s my opinion that the little things like this are what makes a project of this size really shine.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 24 2020, 11:10 AM

Currently away on a business trip, but work continues on the car while I'm out. Slowed down a bit last week, as I was planning a 'Surprise Party' for my wife's 30th Birthday, and this week is a trip to Southern Utah. In my effort to stay motivated and keep momentum, I was able to snap a few photos of the progress on the front bumper and valence. While it is much more work than anticipated (see previous posts about valence being a bit short), I absolutely love the work Joe is cranking out on the bumper cutout, namely taking the bottom 'lip' and blending it in to the cutout to make it look complete. A bit more work, hopefully by the time I get back, and it will be ready for aluma-lead, then paint.

NOTE: While the mesh was originally installed and 'done', I ended up asking Joe to pull it off a redo the whole thing as I didn't like the 'teeth' look.


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Posted by: mepstein Jun 24 2020, 11:49 AM

Looking good.
Is your metal guy blending the ends of the valance to the flares?

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 24 2020, 06:46 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jun 24 2020, 09:49 AM) *

Looking good.
Is your metal guy blending the ends of the valance to the flares?


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - That's right. It seemed to me that, looking at reference photos, most are either 'flush' or there is about an 1/8" offset between the wheel-well and the front of valence. I'm good with either, though I thought this looks better. I figure if I ever want that offset, I can add a spacer on the front and 'boom'.

Still out of state, but heading home from the customers site my Father sent me a few photos of both the front bumper and valence in primer, as well as the 'Frame' we added around the mesh for the oil cooler to reinforce the structure. Not much left to do here except for finishing, painting, and touching up the rubberized undercoating on the front bumper-area and the back of the bumper! aktion035.gif

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Posted by: mepstein Jun 24 2020, 06:49 PM

It looks like a stronger mounting point has been added to the valance.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 24 2020, 06:57 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jun 24 2020, 04:49 PM) *

It looks like a stronger mounting point has been added to the valance.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Correct again! Look at my post #873 and you can see where we glassed in studs. Much easier to take it on and off, as well as adjust it. My Dad and I are toying with the idea of pulling molds of this valence and selling to people interested. Not to 'knock' the original FRP shop, but this needed ALOT of work; widening about 1"-1.5", adjustment, capping off the ends under the wheel-well, finishing, etc.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jun 25 2020, 06:23 AM

Nice progress and work. Can't miss those nice front early S aluminum calipers...... beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 8 2020, 06:31 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Jun 25 2020, 05:23 AM) *

Nice progress and work. Can't miss those nice front early S aluminum calipers...... beerchug.gif


I like them, but may switch to Boxster calipers for purely cosmetic reasons. These were completely restored by PMB, and have zero miles, may post to classifieds.

No large updates, but plan to be at the ranch this weekend to finally 'finish off' the dash wiring. Front valence and bumper are in primer, and we are moving onto the side-skirts and rear. For the rear, most likely, will cut off the exhaust tip and customize the rear valence for either single or dual exhaust and then re-attach. I haven't quiet decided which I like better.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 18 2020, 01:55 PM

Less updates, but a bunch on progress! Simultaneously having the side and rear valences worked on as my Father and I work on revising the oil system. Most of the updates in this post relate to the side-valences, as they need a bunch of work.

Let me start off by saying, the side valences need a lot of work. Starting this project, I was fortunate that we had the side-skirts on as we welded on the flares. Note to anyone reading; Even having the side-skirts on when we welded the flares, they need ALOT of work. They are NOT 'plug and play'. As with the front valence, expect a lot of sanding, building up, and possibly adding glass. In my case, we had to glass in ABS to add about 1/2" on the top lip for anything to line up flush with the doors and fenders. Once added onto the car, that's when the shaping and build-up comes in.

Forecasting the work to be done, the guys 'back-filled' the rockers with fiberglass so that we are not constantly attaching / disconnecting the pieces. After the first phase was complete and everything lines up, it was time to add more filler so that the 'curves' of the fenders match with the fenders (last photo) and blend in a radius to match the car-body.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 18 2020, 02:10 PM

As the guys work on the body-work, my Dad and I were concentrating on equipment in the front trunk (Amplifier, Oil Cooler, Fuel Pump and Lines, etc.). First order of business on this front, we decided to add a bulk-head fitting for the lines entering the wheel-well as the old-setup. We increased the size of the cutout to about 3-1/2 inches, then fabricated a 'block off' plate with AN connectors. Installing it today but once done, the lines will run along the passenger side of the car, and come to a 90º fitting where they will enter the cab. From there, it will have a straight fitting to the oil-bypass thermostat where it will connect to the GT cooler.

I'm nixing the original equipment, so look out for this in the classifieds section. While I don't like it for my car, its very good for racing purposes as you can mount the fuel pump, oil breather and fuel filter to the aluminum shrowd. Uses a stock 964 oil cooler that has adaptors for AN fittings.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 20 2020, 11:12 AM

Another day and gratefully, more progress!

Again, with the help of my Father we were able to get the bracket for the oil line bulk-heads situated. Unfortunately, we had to make another bracket, but hey.... par for the course. This new bracket is inset within the fender well, as we needed that extra space for the proper 90º-AN fitting to make the turn. Only downside to this is we had to cut the fender-well a little more than anticipated, add a small patch above the fitting (see the photos) and slightly 'ding' the interior heater tube about 1/2".

As we completed the bracket and bulkhead, the guys progressed on the side-skirts, which I'm happy to say are done and looking very good! So good, in fact, that rather than go with my original plan to 'texture' the pieces, I'm just going to paint satin-black to match the non-chrome trim.

Now, we focus back on the front valence, as I finish up on the oil system; Cooler, shrowd, and front trunk placement. Moving away from the original 964 cooler has caused me to move things around in the front trunk. Now, the fuel pump, filter and amplifier will sit on the front firewall, and the spare tire will go in its 'stock' location in the rear-trunk. While this seems trivial, it's important to me because I want to be able to take 'road trips', and still accommodate a few duffle bags and equipment.First order here was making a bracket to mount the Amplifier on the front firewall, so as my Dad finished the welding on the bulkhead mount, I designed the plate and cut on our laser machine. Goal here is to have a system where the only wires and connections you see come out from behind the Amp and bracket.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 20 2020, 08:54 PM

In my last post, I made mention of the current focus on locating items in the front trunk, and 'nixing' the original 964 oil cooler for a more 'vintage' looking option. Thanks to my Dad and the folks on my GT Cooler thread (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=347366), I was able to source info from some owners and come to the conclusion of what I want to do on my car. Shoutout to everyone on the oil-cooler thread, with special thanks to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=179 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=16100 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=822 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12876 ConeDodger for putting up with my dumb-questions

As I mention on the thread, it's important to me to have a fan setup as my 3.6 has no onboard forced air and I live in Southern California and am often subject to heavy traffic. Eventually, I settled on a multi-fan solution, with a cooler and thermo switch from PMS.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2020, 07:55 PM

Significant progress made on the project!

I've been meaning to update for a few weeks. Excited to report Side-skirts and Front valence are done, just awaiting paint. The bodywork on these pieces is phenomenal, and I couldn't be happier. Everything lines up very nicely, and we were even able to add a front 'lip' to the valence to match the lip on the lower-part of the front bumper.

Recommendation here: Make sure, when fitting your valence and bumper, to do so with the bumper top ON. It's so easy to create a poor alignment / fitment if all the equipment isn't attached.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2020, 07:56 PM

As work continues, my main focus has been fitting the GT cooler. I'm not trying to 're-create' or 'replicate' a GT car in any form, I just want my design to be clean. I ended up purchasing a louvered sheet metal piece from Patrick Motorsports (PMS) for $68.00 and welding it in to the (already previously cut for an AC) floor. In a 'while I'm here approach' I re-welded the previously cut floor, and both sections will get seam-sealer once done.

Note to anyone reading this with the same plans: The sheet metal from PMS comes in very long, so you could conceivably just cut out the bottom of the front trunk and stitch weld, but I wanted to keep some fo the factory form (folds in the floor).For my car, I first 'stitched' the bottom, then switched to the top and 'stitched' the spaced in-between.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 4 2020, 08:01 PM

Regarding the GT cooler, I've attached some photos showing my approach. After receiving the unit from PMS, my original plan of using the plastic 'zip locks' to secure the Seal fans to the cooler went out the window, so I designed a bracket and used our laser-cutter to produce the piece in 1/4" ABS. Still unsure if I'll stick with ABS or go with water-jet.

With the Oil-cooler fans and floor complete, the tricky part was now how to 'mount' the cooler on a sort of shelf. To do this, I cut a piece of sheet metal about 1/2" larger than the cooler, and doubled up on the last 2-inches where the cooler studs would sit, photos attached. From there, I just stitched the front to the point of the body just below the front-bumper air-inlet, and marked where I want my M8 studs.

Note: I used a 35mm M8 stud to be able to accommodate a rubber grommet / spacer to give the oil cooler a bit of cushion.

I was hesitant if it would be rigid enough, but luckily I was over-thinking it; Once everything is welded together, it's super strong, and I'm very happy with the way it all turned out, functional and easy to disassemble if anything ever needs replaced. Once all the mockup was done, cue the grinding!


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Posted by: eric9144 Aug 11 2020, 01:22 PM

For the fans, are you going thermostat activated or manual switch or ?
Mine is wired to an under dash on/off switch. I find I'm only really using the fans when things get up over 210 or so which I've only hit either pushing really hard in canyons or when stuck in traffic situations that have you not really moving.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Aug 11 2020, 02:13 PM

Enrique - Your car is coming along with nicely. Love the front valance and rocker covers. I don't think you will have any problems with heat with that set-up. beerchug.gif

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 11 2020, 02:52 PM

Looks great. I'll bet your happy the fiberglassing is done. It was a pleasure meeting your parents. You come from good stock Rick. beerchug.gif

Posted by: ValcoOscar Aug 11 2020, 02:53 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Aug 11 2020, 01:13 PM) *

Enrique - Your car is coming along with nicely. Love the front valance and rocker covers. I don't think you will have any problems with heat with that set-up. beerchug.gif


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Great job Enrique. beerchug.gif

Hope to see your car in person very soon. You're moving along quite nicely aktion035.gif

driving.gif

Oscar

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 12 2020, 12:37 PM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Aug 11 2020, 12:22 PM) *

For the fans, are you going thermostat activated or manual switch or ?
Mine is wired to an under dash on/off switch. I find I'm only really using the fans when things get up over 210 or so which I've only hit either pushing really hard in canyons or when stuck in traffic situations that have you not really moving.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12876 - Purchased an in-line thermal switch (Setrab unit, set to 190º), and plan on running this on the thermostat just below the passenger-side headlight bucket. Patrick Motorsports sells them, however you can find them nearly any-where (https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/oil-set-31-ts190-12?_pos=1&_sid=7afdfb160&_ss=r).

I'm paranoid about being stuck in traffic. Learning from the previous setup in the black-car, I really like the way the motor worked with the stock setup that included a thermal switch (on a secondary oil-filter). I can remember being in LA traffic several times with the 3.6, bumper-to-bumper for 3-4 hours and seeing no difference in oil-temps. Though the stock C2 unit had one big fan and one big cooler (22-rows), I'm hoping these three smaller units, wider double-pass cooler and more airflow / better system will do the trick.

.... Also, it's been fun to play fabricator. sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif smash.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 12 2020, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Aug 11 2020, 01:13 PM) *

Enrique - Your car is coming along with nicely. Love the front valance and rocker covers. I don't think you will have any problems with heat with that set-up. beerchug.gif


QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 11 2020, 01:52 PM) *

Looks great. I'll bet your happy the fiberglassing is done. It was a pleasure meeting your parents. You come from good stock Rick. beerchug.gif



QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Aug 11 2020, 01:53 PM) *


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Great job Enrique. beerchug.gif

Hope to see your car in person very soon. You're moving along quite nicely aktion035.gif

driving.gif

Oscar


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9964 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=16669 - Thank you, Thank you, and Thank you Gentleman. Hope to be out there soon with my fellow Californians driving.gif driving.gif driving.gif driving.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 12 2020, 12:57 PM

Non-914 update and station break! icon_bump.gif

Took a bit of time, and the garage 2-post lift, to help a close friend last week with his project; Installing a large (read VERY large) front mount intercooler, advanced air-intake, and other mods on his Abarth. As this fits the 'very cool' category, I thought I'de share a few progress and 'end' photos on this thread. Enjoy!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 12 2020, 05:15 PM

Back to our regular programming, project 3.6 progress!

As my friend and I where wrenching away on the Abarth, it was time for our (incredibly talented) fiberglass modeler to adjust, fit and place the GT oil cooler shroud. I think I've mentioned earlier in this thread that it isn't exactly a high grade piece. From the photos, one can see how much 'filler' is needed in some places, as well as the inside to keep everything from flexing. Taking into account the amount the piece 'grew' we decided to match the radius of the front of the cooler to the front-clip of the car.

While here I decided to address something that nags me, considering I'm not using the stock cooler beneath the shroud, the original mounting bolt-holes. We decided to fill these from the top and grind down the inside, relying now on the two 'tabs' seen on the top of the Setrab cooler for mounting, as well as 2-4 more points on the trunk floor. While dealing with the filler, we added some of the compound to the 'spaces' between the existing trunk and the new louvered sheet metal. Next, these will get covered with seam sealer before painted with rubberized undercoating to match the undercarriage and rest of the front-trunk.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 12 2020, 11:52 PM

Oil-cooler well on its way to completion. The beginning of this week was all about finishing up fabrication, starting off with the new additions to the front trunk and passenger-side bulkhead mount for the AN12 oil-lines.

Primered both the interior of the front trunk, as well as the undercarriage and air-inlet in the front before adding sealer and rubberized undercoating, so that everything matches and looks tidy. NOTE: To the reader considering doing this fabrication on a project car; Do as much as you can before painting. My car has gone through numerous iterations, and it is sometimes nerve-racking working around finished bodywork and paint.

As for the finishing, I chose to go 'thick' with the seam sealer and went with Wurth brushable. My car is 'anything but' stock, I like the look of this underneath the coating. It has nothing to do with 'it's what the factory used', nor am I trying to replicate that. I first applied it using a bondo applicator squeege to make sure to get inside the seams, then passed over the masked area with the brush. Love it, the way it looks, to me is pure 70's inspired racing.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 13 2020, 12:05 PM

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday this week were all about the oil-lines running on the passenger side. After reinforcing the area around the new bulkhead inlet, I also covered this with seam-sealer and applied rubberized undercoating. As I was re-running the oil-lines, I decided that the gussets that support the passenger entry 'step' still looked a bit big and needed to be ground-down a bit more, and then touched up this area with more undercoating, as well as the inside of the long there the bulkhead connections will be.

After running the lines BACK along the passenger side, I had to cut each to a shorter size (they were originally a 'home run' from the tank/engine to the thermostat) and fit the 90º AN12 fittings. For those following along, this is bear of a job. I hate putting new fittings on SS braided lines, but here we are. Also note, I've included a diagram for reference for those, like me, that were/are unsure which direction the oil flows within the system.

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Posted by: Luke M Aug 13 2020, 01:01 PM

Your GT project is coming along great. I have a question for you.
Looks like you made your own fan holding bracket out of abs.
How about knocking a few out of aluminum ? I could use two of them for my projects.

Or anyone here have the means to do this?


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 13 2020, 01:29 PM

QUOTE(Luke M @ Aug 13 2020, 12:01 PM) *

Your GT project is coming along great. I have a question for you.
Looks like you made your own fan holding bracket out of abs.
How about knocking a few out of aluminum ? I could use two of them for my projects.

Or anyone here have the means to do this?



Hey Luke, you read my mind. This and a few other products will be available soon.

I'll also have the ability to produce custom laser-cut items. beer.gif

Posted by: Luke M Aug 13 2020, 02:17 PM

aktion035.gif Pm me when you get going on them. I'd be in for two of them.
I'll be running the same oil cooler that you have with the gt shroud.

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 18 2020, 02:13 PM

Another station break that I wanted to share on my thread...

Took this weekend to spend some time with my Dad on his newest adventure with Miata Superspec racing via SpeedVentures. A lot of fun visiting and hanging out with the group at Autoclub Speedway in Fontana, CA. If you ever get the chance to do a track day or Speed Ventures event at this location (or any for that matter) I cannot recommend it enough. Hope everyone enjoys the photos!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 18 2020, 02:15 PM

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 18 2020, 02:41 PM

Back to our standard-914 content...

Work continues on the oil-system, and I'm happy to finally get the lines (mostly) wrapped up. The connection from the oil-tank / engine-out to the bulkhead fittings on the passenger-side longs is complete, as is the connection from the bulkhead fitting to the thermostat (routed through the inside of the cabin, under the gas-tank and into the front trunk).

Also, I'de like to take this moment to mention how much I DO NOT love working with braided steel lines. For those of you moving in a similar direction, I highly suggest watching the various techniques on YouTube, investing in gloves, and learning how to curse in 4-languages... You'll need all of those! headbang.gif For future reference, I can see the benefit when running them outside a shielded area, but will be moving to nylon whenever possible.

NOTE: For those creating a similar solution, the connection from the thermostat to the oil-cooler is where it gets tricky, depending on where you mount the thermostat. Whereas originally I was going to run a 45º and then about 6" of braided hose, I find that I will have to install a 2"-3" 'extender' on the oil-cooler, then a 90º bend to be able to route this correctly (with the 45º, it would rub or 'kink' against the support below the headlight), see the last picture of where things don't line up like I was expecting, and the extender(s) I found on JEGS, not sure which one will end up being the solution....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 19 2020, 08:46 AM

Small update... swung by the ranch (Garage) yesterday evening and was pleasantly surprised to see these beauties in primer! biggrin.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 2 2020, 02:14 PM

Continuing work on project 3.6, following photo show the front trunk equipment placement and mock-up before repaint. As there has been a lot going on here, I've tried to summarizer everything in this entry for anyone following along, or who wants to do something similar. bye1.gif

- Top Right Corner on front bulkhead - Amplifier bracket template (actual is 1/4" ABS)
- Designed this myself, laser-cut. Used metric 8mm x 35 bolts back-drilled from the 'gas tank side' of the trunk. To isolate and stand off for wires and speaker cables, I added plastic spacers (approx 1.5"). Note: For the top-left bolt, it is necessary to drill through top-support of the bulkhead/firewall to have access to the tubing.

- Top Left Corner on front bulkhead - 3.6 Fram Fuel-filter
- As with the amplifier, back-drilled from the 'gas-tank side' of the trunk for easy access / studs.

- Bottom-center on front bulkhead - 3.6 Fuel pump with isolators and bracket
- Careful here, as it's close to the sway bar. Mounted the fuel pump on a bracket with 1" rubber isolators to reduce vibration. This location was chosen as it's (nearly) the lowest point of the front trunk, and doesn't interfere with the oil-cooler shroud.

- Driver Side, below headlight - Aux Relay / Fuse Box
- Found this on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1958JT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Great model and very tidy. This will hold all fuses / relays for equipment in the front trunk; Fuel Pump, Amplifier, Oil-Cooler Fans, Work-light. As I had to slightly re-route the stock-harness for the Driver-Side headlights and turn-signal, I added an isolated wire-clamp.

- Center-bottom of front trunk - Louvered sheet metal
- Available on Patrick Motorsports (https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/bod-9146l-vrpan-pmp). Pretty straight-forward.

- Front trunk Left - Oil Cooler thermostat
- For those unfamiliar; When cool, the device returns oil to the engine. When up to operating temp., it will allow oil to flow to the front-mounted oil cooler. Additionally, I've mounted a Setrab inline thermal switch, also from Patrick Motorsports (https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/oil-set-31-ts190-12). This is a 'set it and forget it measure'. When the oil temp gets to 190º, this will kick-on the 3x Spal fans (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBP55G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

- Front trunk - Oil Cooler connections
- I found it easiest to use a 90º bend and a small adapter to make everything fit and flow into the front-mounted oil-cooler. Cooler is a Setrab unit and, shocker-shocker, found on Patrick Motorsports (https://patrickmotorsports.com/collections/914-6-oil-system/products/oil-901-207-gt-foc-pmp) In case I haven't mentioned it, all lines and connections are AN12, and generally available on JEGS.com, Offroadwarehouse.com, etc.

- Shroud
- Used the GT replica shroud, this is available most anywhere. Cut the side out for the oil in/out to exit, and a small notch on the Drivers side for the fan electrical connections to pass under, making removing and installing easy. Additionally, I added 4x tabs to the top and bottom, drilled through the shroud and body, then welded 6mm nuts for the bolts to hold onto. No need to climb under the car or take off the bumper to remove, and no ugly sheet-metal screws shades.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 2 2020, 02:22 PM

Once complete with the mockup, it's time to undo all the work seal up the new bolts and old-bolt holes, sand-down and re-shoot the front trunk, front bumper area, and trunk undercarriage. Luckily, with the original build, I used high-grade rubberized undercoating and it's still available. Not shown; Below the fuel tank and in the hard-to get to areas, I went a little-tougher and added more POR15, Wurth seam-sealer and truck bed-liner as some of this is exposed to moisture coming in from the suspension access plate.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 4 2020, 11:34 AM

No entry needed, just a few progress photos showing the rear-fitment of the 'shorty valence'. I've said it several times on this thread, but I'll say it again.... Be very wary buying the fiberglass reproductions; These pieces need significant work to fit. smash.gif

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Posted by: mepstein Sep 4 2020, 11:55 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Sep 4 2020, 01:34 PM) *

No entry needed, just a few progress photos showing the rear-fitment of the 'shorty valence'. I've said it several times on this thread, but I'll say it again.... Be very wary buying the fiberglass reproductions; These pieces need significant work to fit. smash.gif



Enrique - the same held true for all the glass we used on 911 project cars. No matter who we purchased from and how much it cost, the actual fit was more of a suggestion than a rule. When a customer asked why it cost 2 grand to fit the IROC bumper, I would show them pics of how the body guy had to section it into pieces and piece it back together to make it fit the lines of the car.
Glass is really meant for the track. Light and easily replaceable. Making it fit a road car is a lot of time and effort.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 4 2020, 12:06 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Hey Mark! Completely agree.

Luckily, we have a FRP modeler on-staff and this is easily enough resolved for me. If we didn't, this would get VERY expensive, VERY fast. For those that are unfamiliar with FRP products, this is the long and the short of it according to our modeler... In order to produce 'volume' or runs of a product, often times the producer will add more catalyst/hardener to the material to speed up the process. Further, the producer will usually 'pull' the piece from the mold before letting it 'set' in the mold a sufficient amount of time. Both of these techniques lead to a bad product that has the tendency to warp, shrink, etc.

In my case, the Driver-side fit very well and needed only minimal work. The passenger side on the other hand had to come out several inches. In my experience, typical shop rate is approx. $90/hr, and the total time for this entire procedure was approximately 8hrs, and it's not even in final-prep /paint-work yet.... thats a potential $720 for body-work on 1 piece, scary! WTF.gif

Posted by: mepstein Sep 4 2020, 12:16 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Sep 4 2020, 02:06 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Hey Mark! Completely agree.

Luckily, we have a FRP modeler on-staff and this is easily enough resolved for me. If we didn't, this would get VERY expensive, VERY fast. For those that are unfamiliar with FRP products, this is the long and the short of it according to our modeler... In order to produce 'volume' or runs of a product, often times the producer will add more catalyst/hardener to the material to speed up the process. Further, the producer will usually 'pull' the piece from the mold before letting it 'set' in the mold a sufficient amount of time. Both of these techniques lead to a bad product that has the tendency to warp, shrink, etc.

In my case, the Driver-side fit very well and needed only minimal work. The passenger side on the other hand had to come out several inches. In my experience, typical shop rate is approx. $90/hr, and the total time for this entire procedure was approximately 8hrs, and it's not even in final-prep /paint-work yet.... thats a potential $720 for body-work on 1 piece, scary! WTF.gif

Your numbers are cheap. When you take it into a Porsche shop to get it worked, your looking at $125-250/hour.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 4 2020, 12:59 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 4 2020, 11:16 AM) *

Your numbers are cheap. When you take it into a Porsche shop to get it worked, your looking at $125-250/hour.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Uff, that makes me nauseous! icon8.gif screwy.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 8 2020, 11:11 AM

As mentioned in my previous entry, fitment of the rear-valence complete. Last weekend was dedicated to to modifying it to accommodate dual exhaust, and I'm very happy with the result. Once again our modeler has knocked it out of the park, duplicating the cutout to both-sides and adding the proper 'lip' around the cutout. As opposed to the previous setup, where the exhaust was exiting out of the drivers side at an angle, the dual setup will have a more subtle 'straight out' exit. piratenanner.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 8 2020, 11:23 AM

Front trunk reassembly now that all is repainted after the equipment add-ons and changes...

"We put it together, just to take it apart again..." welder.gif smash.gif type.gif screwy.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 3 2020, 08:39 PM

As travel restrictions are slowly being lifted, I've found myself 'on the road' more, flying a bunch so progress has been a bit slow due to getting caught up with customers orders. Before leaving, I did have a chance to install my Camp914 (http://www.camp914.com hood shocks. Overall, I'm very happy with how they turned out, however I think there are a few items that I didn't understand before that other members may care to know:

- Newest version requires you to drill into the rear trunk-lid, whereas previously, I though it was only required to drill into the hood-hinge. I can see how this would be unappealling to some. Luckily, with the help of McMaster-Carr, I'm able to modify my hood-hinges to not drill into my hood.
- It is required to 'grind away' a portion of the lip that separates the rear trunk from the engine bay. I don't believe this to be advertised, and it's not in the instructions.
- The instructions could be better. They get a little wordy, and pictures or reference diagrams would help especially when giving directions on drill locations.
- Use an excessive amount of tape to prevent a drill slipping and causing a knick. Very easy to do.
- Front kit is very easy, and basically a 'bolt-on' setup. One end connects to the original mount of the spring, the other fits between the hood hinge and hood hinge bolt.
- Note to others: When applying hood hinges, use a small(er) ratchet. Very easy to schear the shoulder bolt inside the hinge mount. See photos.


Overall, I do like the kit, only wish there would be more information about it. I wish I would have purchased and assembled it BEFORE painting my car, to avoid any potential damage to the paint and make cutting away a bit of the trunk easier. Other than that, all good! bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 3 2020, 09:09 PM

Non-914 update, but I thought it would be cool to 'share' with the world; My newest vehicle and designated 'Tow Vehicle' and its maiden voyage. smilie_pokal.gif

Purchased this Black 2020 GMC Sierra-Elevation. All Black, Black rims, modest list, Duramax engine, and optional leather and sunroof. It's been a couple of weeks now, and I'm very happy with it (and the 30MPG) I'm getting. Photos are from purchase day, you can see my wife in the background, and a few from a recent trip we took up the coast to see my Father race at Sonoma. Along the way, we were lucky enough to stop at Pismo Beach, Morro Bay, Big Sur, San Jose, Sonoma and Wine Country.

Also, used this opportunity to visit @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1219 (Sergio) and other 'Teeners' to pick-up one a very nice GT-style decklid. If you have the opportunity to purchase, I highly recommend. Very nice pieces, with stock fasteners holding the removable mesh, and rivets holding the new piece. Very excited to get this on, and keep my stock-looking lid if I want to mix-and-match.

Thats all I have for now, stay safe everyone! bye1.gif

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Posted by: PCA7GGR Oct 3 2020, 09:24 PM

It was great to finally meet you.

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 30 2020, 02:18 PM

QUOTE(PCA7GGR @ Oct 3 2020, 07:24 PM) *

It was great to finally meet you.



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1219 great to meet you too, and thanks for the limoncello drunk.gif


Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 30 2020, 02:30 PM

Hey world!

Long-time-no-post, but I'm still on it! With the (temporary) ease of travel restrictions we saw in the Fall, I've been traveling a lot, but have still found time to carve-out a few weekends here and there as well as visit a few new-places. More on that later. Work continues on the car, and I've been focused on the new equipment added to the front trunk, and sorting out the system of powering the new parts, relays and systems.

First up, I mentioned that I purchased an aftermarket relay-kit / project box. I've since wired this with 2x configurations....

- The three top relays are 'always' on. I've left 2 'open' for now, for whatever I want to install in the future (air horn, things like that) and the first is for the oil-cooler fans, with the thermo-switch (located on the passenger side) located on the GND leg.
- The bottom two relays come on with ignition, specifically for items like the fuel-pump. I've left 1 extra 'open' for now, and am not sure what I'll use it for, but nice to know it's there.

Once I bench-tested everything, I set the box into the trunk and soldered all connections. After I test, this will get wrapped to look like the stock harness. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 30 2020, 02:33 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Nov 30 2020, 12:30 PM) *

Hey world!

Long-time-no-post, but I'm still on it! With the (temporary) ease of travel restrictions we saw in the Fall, I've been traveling a lot, but have still found time to carve-out a few weekends here and there as well as visit a few new-places. More on that later. Work continues on the car, and I've been focused on the new equipment added to the front trunk, and sorting out the system of powering the new parts, relays and systems.

First up, I mentioned that I purchased an aftermarket relay-kit / project box. I've since wired this with 2x configurations....

- The three top relays are 'always' on. I've left 2 'open' for now, for whatever I want to install in the future (air horn, things like that) and the first is for the oil-cooler fans, with the thermo-switch (located on the passenger side) located on the GND leg.
- The bottom two relays come on with ignition, specifically for items like the fuel-pump. I've left 1 extra 'open' for now, and am not sure what I'll use it for, but nice to know it's there.

Once I bench-tested everything, I set the box into the trunk and soldered all connections. After I test, this will get wrapped to look like the stock harness. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 26 2020, 01:17 PM

Taking the Holiday season to try to make headway on the project. With the help of various sites and members here, this is where I'm at so far.

I've begun decoding the setup the previous owner had. While I originally thought I could simply copy the setup from @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1483 - this was not the case as the original relay board has already been bypassed. No matter, his diagram is still an incredible help when it comes to the pin callouts on the DME relay. If anyone can help identify wires, especially when it comes to the OEM 14-pin connector, that would be very appreciated.

I'm hoping to be able to figure this out myself over the course of time-off during the next week, or at the least, make a big-enough dent to be able to have a shop take it over and get it running.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 29 2020, 11:33 AM

Happy to say I'm 'wrapping up' the front trunk harness. Decided to move away from the 'stock look' of wrapped tape, and go with something more modern. This is also safer for the 2x new +12v lines I added below the tank for items in the front trunk.

Unfortunately, I had to crack-open the relay box I installed previously. I decided to add a horn relay for a more euro-sounding horn now located in the driver-side wheel well and a new relay for the foglight. So, now that its complete, the front relay box now powers the fuel-pump, oil-cooler fans (with a dash-mounted switch for manual over-ride) air-horn, fog-lights, and one 'open' relay for something in the future.

I need to read more into the whole 'headlight relay' thing as it relates to the stock 914/6 column, but I think that I can run that near the stock fuse-board to be both easier and cleaner. Speaking of the 914/6 column and controls, this is my current focus after adding the new equipment and wrapping the front portion of the harness with safety-sheathing. I've started on a conversion table for converting the 75' harness to the 914/6 connector, and will post once complete.

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Posted by: Cairo94507 Dec 29 2020, 12:01 PM

Hi Enrique, @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 - Car is looking very nice. You have to be getting close to being able to drive that, right? beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 29 2020, 01:27 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 - So close! Using my 2 weeks of vacation this year to work on the car. Front trunk wrapped up, same with the rear, and I'm pretty sure I have the DME relay setup working properly.

icon_bump.gif

Right now, main focus is figuring out the conversion wiring I mentioned in my last post. I've snipped the original black 75' connector, and have temporarily installed male/female connectors to troubleshoot. If anyone can point me in the right direction of the column/wiper controls, I would be very grateful. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 31 2020, 01:05 AM

I ask again, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time"

Moving forward on the relay-box up front, and working with the dash recently, developed a few electrical gremlins. Nothing too big, but it certainly has made the 914-6 column and wiring take a bit longer than expected. Right now, each of the turn signal and parking lights on the 75' harness and grounding-out, and I don't think that problem was there before, more on that as it develops.

I'm happy to say I took this opportunity to test out both my front-mounted fog-light relay (I retained the original relay on the fuse-board as well) and also installed the LEDs from https://914rubber.com/led-headlight-bulb-set-1. VERY BRIGHT, plug and play, love it. (more on that and fog lights in the following posts....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 31 2020, 01:20 AM

A bit about headlights concerning 914-6 column controls
NOTE: My car is a 1970 914-4, with a 1975 modified wiring harness using various 914-6 / 964 parts

For those readers following this thread using an actual 914-6 on a 914-4 harness, see page 40 of this build-thread. Essentially, one will need to eliminate the stock 914/4 headlight relay (attached in this post - first photo circled in neon green), which can become troublesome as then the 914-6 switch (possibly the same for 911 conversions) takes the entire load of the hi-lo beams and can lead to the contacts burning out. This would result in the need to install a different relay(s) OR simply converting to LEDs. My take? Ditch the stock relay, pay the $120 to 914rubber, and call it a night.

Furthermore, make sure that the contacts on the 914-6 turn signal / light switch are bent and not protruding too much (see the second photo, also highlighted in green). The bracket / cradle that allows this switch to attach to the steering column only allows a bit of clearance. In my case, my high-beam was grounding out against the column, and I nearly burnt-out my switch, 12-pin connector, and some of my wiring harness. Learn from my mistake!

Specifically for the headlights, the wire-conversion is as follows...
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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 4 2021, 01:42 PM

Another couple of days, and more progress!

I'm happy to say, I now have all the stock components (Turn signals, High/Lo-beams, Hazards, Blower, Ignition, etc.) working with the stock controls and 914-6 controls, and I've started soldering the original harness and new components together.

Progress photos below, diagrams to come.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 4 2021, 10:10 PM

The relay box up front is now 100% active. Turning on the ignition powers the fuel-pump relay, need to decide if its through the DME or a new relay (more on that later) as well as power to the oil-cooler fans, controlled by the thermo-switch. Additionally, I added a dash-mounted switch in case the thermo-switch fails, diagram and a few reference photos below.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 5 2021, 12:07 AM

Also, while digging into the dash to finish up the ignition wiring and install switches, I decided to 'isolate' the Fog-light switch and set it up so that it only functions with the key on while staying independent of the hi/lo beams.

I've browsed the site and there are no shortage of instructions on how to do this. I'm happy to say while it's pretty simple, the various threads make it a bit confusing. Below, I listed out what I did that worked excellent for making the foglight function independently ONLY when the key is in the ON position, for fear of draining the battery.

NOTE:
Future modification - Since the 914 has 'bucket' lights, this doesn't make sense to use these for 'flash-to-pass' during the daytime, I'm thinking that I'll wire the fog-lights to be my 'flash-to-pass', but thats a weekend project sometime in the future.


1 - Disconnect the battery

2 - Locate the Fog-light relay on the fuse board and notice the white wire with a blue-stripe (first-photo of this post) in my case, this led to pin 1 on the fuses.

3 - Cut / Connect / Solder the blue and white wire to GND.

4 - Disconnect the Black/Blue wire from the foglight switch (mine was located on the 'K' terminal.) Wrap / isolate the Blue / Black wire, it will no longer be in use.

5 - Run a lead (mine is Blue in the photos) from the 'K' terminal on the foglight switch to something that is only ON when the key is in the ON position. (I used pin 9)

6 - Reconnect the battery and test all your connections, its easy to unplug things on the fuse board when doing this (happened to me with my passenger side lights).

7 - Use this opportunity to check the connections / clean your fuse board, clean and tape your harness. (Note Not necessary to open the harness for this, I just had mine accessible).

8 - Test again before wrap up.


Note: Browsing through the posts I found the attached diagram and it made everything clear to me, save for the pins on the fog-lights. In the diagram, it lists using pin 15 on the foglight switch, whereas mine was wired for 'K'.
[size=2]


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Posted by: ClayPerrine Jan 5 2021, 08:51 AM

The DME relay controls both the ECU/Injectors/Ignition igniters/etc... and the Fuel Pump/O2 sensor heater. The fuel pump portion of the DME relay is turned on by a signal from the ECU. If you wire it so the fuel pump is on all the time, it will not work right.

Inserted below is an Excel spreadsheet I made to put my 964 motor in. It may help you, but it does have some specific notes in it about my car.

I am also attaching the 964 engine wiring diagram, which contains the DME relay and the ECU.

I hope it helps. Let me know if you need any more info.

Clay
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ECU Pin Wire Color Gauge 964 ECU Function Target Device and Pin number
1 White 14 Ignition Modules Signal Igniton Control Mudules 1 and 2 Pin 5
2 Brown 14 Ignition Modules Ground Igniton Control Mudules 1 and 2 Pin 3
3 Black/White 18 Fuel Pump Relay Fuel Pump Relay pin 85
4 Black/Red 18 Idle Speed Control Idle Speed Positioner pin 2
5 N/C Tank Venting Valve Tank Venting Valve pin 2
6 Red/Blue 18 Tachometer Output 914/6 Relay board Engine plug pin 2
7 Blue/Green 18 Air Flow Meter Signal Air Flow Meter Pin 2
8 White/Shield 18 Hall Sensor Signal Hall Sensor Pin 2
9 Red/Black 18 N/C
10 Brown 18 Oxygen Sensor Shield Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
11 Green/Shield 18 Knock Sensor Number 1 Knock Sensor Number 1 Pin 2
12 Blue/Gray 18 Air Flow Meter Power Air Flow Meter Pin 3 / Pressure Sensor Pin 3
13 Blue/White 18 Diagnostic Plug Lead L OBD2 Connector Pin 15
14 Brown/Red 14 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
15 N/C Injector Number 3 Fuel Injector Number 3 Pin 1
16 Gray 18 Injector Number 6 Fuel Injector Number 6 Pin 1
17 Gray/Black 18 Injector Number 1 Fuel Injector Number 1 Pin 1
18 Red 16 Always on Positive ECU Power Battery via Auxuiluary Fuse Box in Engine Compartment.
19 White 16 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
20 N/C N/C
21 Black/ 18 Diagnostic Plug Knock Indicator OBD2 Connector Pin 11
22 Black/White 18 Check Engine Light added to bottom of Tachometer / OBD2 Plug Pin 9
23 Blue/Red 18 Resonance Plate Shift Valve Resonance Flap Pin 2
24 Brown/Yellow 16 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
25 Yellow/Red 18 N/C
26 Green/Red 18 Air Flow Meter Ground Air Flow Meter Pin 4
27 Black 16 N/C
28 Green/Shield 16 Oxygen Sensor Signal Oxygen Sensor Pin 1
29 Green/Shield 16 Knock Sensor Number 2 Knock Sensor Number 2 Pin 2
30 Brown 18 Shield for Knock Sensors, Hall Sensor and Knock Sensor Ground. Ground on Body at battery cable.
31 Yellow/Gray 18 Positive to Hall Sensor Hall Sensor Pin 3
32 Red/Green 18 Comsumption Gauge
33 Green/Blue 18 Injector Number 5 Fuel Injector Number 5 Pin 1
34 Gray/Red 18 Injector Number 4 Fuel Injector Number 4 Pin 1
35 Green/Blue 18 Injector Number 2 Fuel Injector Number 2 Pin 1
36 Red/Black 18 N/C
37 Red/Yellow 16 Switched Power from ECU Relay ECU Relay Pin 87
38 N/C N/C
39 N/C N/C
40 White/Black 18 AC Compressor AC Compressor Coil Power
41 Blue/Green 18 AC Cutoff sensors High Pressure/Low pressure cutoff valves for AC.
42 N/C N/C
43 N/C N/C
44 N/C Intake Air Temperature Sensor
45 Yellow 18 Engine Temperature Sensor Cylinder Head Temprature Sensor Pin 3
46 N/C Altitude Potentiometer Pressure Sensor Pin 1
47 Yellow/Red 18 Speed Reference Sensor Flywheel Sensor Pin 1
48 Brown 18 Speed Reference Shield Flywheel Sensor Pin 2
49 White/Shield 18 N/C
50 N/C Heat/AC Regulator
51 N/C N/C
52 N/C Throttle Valve Idle Signal Throttle Valve Switch Pin 1
53 White/Grey 18 Throttle Valve Full Load Signal Throttle Valve Switch Pin 3
54 White 18 Coding Plug Coding Plug in Passenger Compartment
55 Orange/White 18 Diagnostic Plug K OBD2 Connector Pins 3 and 7

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2021, 01:15 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 - Wow, completely missed this message, very helpful. For some reason, the board format throws the organization off, so I imported into a .doc and took a screenshot.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2021, 01:23 PM

Update: This is where I'm at currently. Much of the weekend was spent documenting the current state of the wiring, as it worked before (first screenshot). From my limited understanding, this works, though it's not ideal for several reasons....

- The ignition powers the DME, ECU and Fuel pump, whereas the Fuel-pump need to run off the DME.
- The ECU is getting power from a standard relay, not allowing it to save 'memory'.
- The Diagnostic port isn't fully functional; Not reading 'Check Engine', Engine Speed, etc.
- Gauges weren't necessarily connected.

I believe I've pretty much mapped everything, so now, it comes to the point where I have to create a new diagram and run off of that. Needing a break from the Computer work and sitting in the compartment, I also took this chance to clean up my connections at the fuse board, install new fuses, and clean all the contacts. I was getting a lot of false readings and gremlins, this cleared all of those.

NOTE: The below screenshot of the wiring diagram is WRONG.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 11 2021, 01:26 PM

Attached below, these are the changes I think I need to make....


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 14 2021, 12:04 PM

Moving along, and I'm happy to show-off first prototypes of the oil-cooler fan mount. Will be bending and testing a few different designs this weekend. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2021, 09:45 PM

Another weekend, and I'm marching ahead!

First order of business was to wrap up the wiring for the three primary gauges dash; Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil Temp / Oil Pressure. Center console to follow, though thats significantly easier (Fuel Level, Oil Level, Clock with Status lights).

This was easy enough, given the 964 diagram. Photos and references to come. In addition to connecting up a few items that didn't really exist before, I left 3x 'extra wires' that run back to the ECU for future use. All connections work, and I only have 4 wires that I have to figure out (Speedo signal, Oil Pressure Sender, Tach +12v and Tach signal) and I was even able to run 2x new lines to differentiate between Right and Left Turn-signals. I'm not 100% familiar with the different icons from the 964, so I'm thinking to make my 'idiot light' the big 'EXCLAMATION MARK' signal found on the Oil combo gauge. Done here for now, once everything is tested, I'll probably wrap in the same manner to match the rest of the harness. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 17 2021, 09:49 PM

Final part of the weekend was spent fitting the new Oil cooler bracket. Bent and modified the bracket after being cut, added a few screws and rubber isolators and it fits excellent!

For those members with similar projects, needed this part, feel free to contact me. I now have a design for this bracket that can incorporate up to 4-fans aktion035.gif

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Posted by: euro911 Jan 18 2021, 01:08 PM

Looking good aktion035.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jan 18 2021, 02:39 PM

QUOTE(euro911 @ Jan 18 2021, 11:08 AM) *

Looking good aktion035.gif



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=7300 - Gracias Señor Mark! Hey, out of curiosity, what ever happened to that 2ltr? If I remember correctly, it's been at or almost 10 years! bye1.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Jan 18 2021, 03:01 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 - Looking nice. I like the gauges. You are getting so close now. Keep up the great progress. beerchug.gif

Posted by: euro911 Jan 18 2021, 04:26 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jan 18 2021, 12:39 PM) *
QUOTE(euro911 @ Jan 18 2021, 11:08 AM) *
Looking good aktion035.gif
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=7300 - Gracias Señor Mark! Hey, out of curiosity, what ever happened to that 2ltr? If I remember correctly, it's been at or almost 10 years! bye1.gif
Yeah, it was right around that time frame. I sold it when we installed the 2056 that Richard (Type_4_Unleashed) assembled for me while I was recuperating from gastro-tract surgery sawzall-smiley.gif


Here's a pic of when we installed it though ...

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... and later, the 2056 motor when I had the shop

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 16 2021, 06:42 PM

Long time - no post, but I'm still on the project and plan on building back-up the momentum this week. piratenanner.gif It's been a hell of a a couple of months; Lots of travel and work, some to great locations, however I'm excited to get rolling.

In addition to photos of the different travel locations, also sharing a few from my side projects; The GT Cooler bracket (Link here >http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=348141) and just as well, I've also begun pulling molds and parts for a front and rear GT valence (see my other thread here > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=351003&hl=)

Enjoy, hope to update soon! bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 22 2021, 08:19 PM

Well, the car is back at my house. Though I don't have the same resources as the shop / ranch, having it at home will hopefully help me work easier. I find that, when it's here, it's easy to carve our 1-2 hours a day.

First order of business was getting it in. After, I was finally able to wrap-up the oil system with lines I had made at Parker. Though they were a bit on the expensive side ($128) for the set, it was much easier than making and fitting the braided lines, as these last pieces are only 7', and it's extremely difficult when they are that short with a fitting on each end. To make it all match, thinking to do a small connector for the other-side, and get rid of the ugly Blue and Red fittings, but thats not super important. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 22 2021, 08:24 PM

Wondering if anyone can help me with, or point me in the right direction, on what I hope is one of my last wiring questions. Re-engaging on my project and last step of wiring, save for the ECU, is the /6 wiper control. I've confirmed the the connections on the motor are correct (photo of a similar thread attached for anyone troubleshooting this), and just don't know where to start with the connection between the dash-harness and the column lever.

On the wiper switch side (Stock 914/6 Column switch), I have the following wires...
- Solid Red
- Black with Yellow
- Black with Purple
- Light-Blue
- Black

On the other side, my 76' harness has the following wires...
- Green with White
- Black with Red
- Black with Blue
- Blue
- Brown and White

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks all in advance! bye1.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 24 2021, 10:24 AM

Re-engaging on this subject, does anyone know the the wiper function for each of the colored wires? As I'm trying to make the 914-6 controls work with my 914-4 harness, I don't know which color wire corresponds to the different wiper functions. I would assume theres various speeds, and a lead to activate the Washer / Sprayer.

On the Stock 914/6 Column switch, I have the following wires...
- Solid Red
- Black with Yellow
- Black with Purple
- Light-Blue
- Black

On the other side, my 76' harness has the following wires...
- Green with White
- Black with Red
- Black with Blue
- Blue
- Brown and White

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 30 2021, 10:19 PM

Digging into this further, I've narrowed down the following. It's difficult to complete, because I'm not all to familiar with this part of the car, and whether or not the motor had different speeds. Seems like the below is correct and I'm think I'm getting different speeds so I'm going to move on, but any input is welcome...

Switch side > Chassis Harness

Solid Red > Red and Black
Black > (Washer Pump)
Black / Purple > Black / Blue
Green / White > Black / Yellow

I've ordered a bunch of new parts, and they are slowly trickling in - more on that later. Finding something to do over the weekend, I decided to first complete orders for my 6-conversion GT Cooler, http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=348141&st=20. Very happy with how these turned out and a special 'thank you' to all the members who purchased the first-product, more to come!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 30 2021, 10:46 PM

After completing the orders for the cooler, dug into my parts stash. Idea is to start 'chipping' away on the weekend and finishing small jobs, while leaving the larger items (such as finishing the ECU wiring and touching-up the paint) for the weekend when there are larger blocks of time and concentration. screwy.gif

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First up, I thought I would attach the parts-stash I have from 914Rubber. Though I originally installed the headlights, on my last order I received a set of early headlight brushes. While I thought I could install the brushes and rubber flap while just removing the arm.... I was fooling myself. For anyone trying to also do this, make it easy on yourself, Man... Just take-out the headlight and arm. It will take you 10-15 min, and will be alot easier.

NOTE: Whenever working on, adjusting the headlights - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY / POWER. Those headlight motors will easily bite your hand, no joke!

Remove the headlight 'eye-brows' and covers, then the 3-bolts on the inside of the trunk (first photo), the 2-bolts on the inside of the fender, and finally the arm thats connected to the motor. Voilá! You can now work much easier. Though my car is a restoration, this is also a great opportunity to check your headlight-buckets. It's not at all uncommon that the drain at the bottom gets clogged with dirt and leaves.

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Once everything is open to the world, the installation of the brushes is pretty-straight forward. Make sure to use the rubber piece included and line up the slit in the rubber with the center of the brush. When you're done, it while lay like a flap over the brush and minimize water splashing into the front-trunk area. Will it fail eventually? Yes - it's designed to, and cheap to replace.

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With that through, follow the same procedure in reverse to assemble the headlight system. When you get to the end, and you feel that your headlights aren't even, you can check by turning the black nobs on-top of the headlight motors. If that small adjustment doesn't work, you can also disconnect the 'arm' that connects the motor to the headlight assembly, make sure it's completely 'straight' when the headlight should be in the 'up' position. First picture shows the wrong position, second shows the correct.

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Final Note: If you're doing this job, it's also a great time to replace or check the following...
- LED Headlights
- Headlight Enclosures / Lenses
- Turn-signal Grommet / boot
- Headlight Relays
- Your ground points - Located on the back of each headlight.

bye1.gif


Posted by: CptTripps Mar 31 2021, 05:45 AM

I can offer no help with your wiring issue, but think you're doing a hell of a job on this car. Really great work. Love that you're going to the 10th degree on everything.

Also, as a fellow sim racer, it's fun to work on real cars now and then. But way more greasy! I did a thread in the Sandbox about my rig. Check it out: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=351983

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 31 2021, 07:05 PM

QUOTE(CptTripps @ Mar 31 2021, 04:45 AM) *

I can offer no help with your wiring issue, but think you're doing a hell of a job on this car. Really great work. Love that you're going to the 10th degree on everything.

Also, as a fellow sim racer, it's fun to work on real cars now and then. But way more greasy! I did a thread in the Sandbox about my rig. Check it out: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=351983



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3342 - Gracias, trying my best to keep the quality up, sometimes after looking at my work it's hit or miss. Good looking rig, don't be afraid to ask should you have any questions aktion035.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Mar 31 2021, 07:21 PM

This last couple of days, it's been all about SOUND aktion035.gif

Though I do require having a radio in the car, I'll admit I'm not much of an audiophile. While not really concerned with bass or loudness, I do enjoy clarity and want to have something for long-trips that sounds good, and has all the modern amenities such as hands-free capability and Bluetooth. Doing the research, settled on this Pioneer AMP I had originally bought for another project, I understand it is a very good solution. Coupled with that, I decided to go with 'Pioneer everything', and ordered the speakers and receive as well.

In the cab, I'm just mounting 2x speakers in the stock-location, albeit with the 914Rubber speaker pods. As great as these (speaker pods) are, I do with they were less pliable and a bit more sturdy, I feel like there is a better-solution than the formed plastic that they come in, but more on that later. Currently, have run my own cabling lead for Amp controller, Speaker Wire to speakers, and speaker wire from the Receiver to AMP. As usual, to make this all the more cleaner and easier to understand in the future, this is it's own harness with safety-sheathing running in parallel to the the equipment harnesses to there front trunk and through the firewall.

Just got an alert that the Speakers and receiver are delivered to the house, so hopefully I can update more this weekend! bye1.gif

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Posted by: saladin Apr 1 2021, 12:57 AM

Hope this helps with your wiring work. The drawings are draft as they are incomplete, need to be double checked, and I have yet performed the wiring work to verify operation.

For my 914-6 ignition switch conversion, I am using the stock 1974 dash with Restoration Design's PP360 "Dash section for Ignition."

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Since I am using the 1974 dash, I lost a dash switch opening and decided to eliminate the fog light switch and run driving lights like a 914-6 with the 914-6 flash operation as well. In order to protect the column switch, I looking to add power relays to provide full power to the lights, like @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=97 JWest Engineering "911 Headlight Relay Kit." I am also adding a DLR module to use the driving lights as daylight running lights.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 1 2021, 09:25 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=8125 - I think this is the ‘silver bullet’ I need. While I don’t have a 911 wiper switch on the steering column (mine is stock 914-6) believe i can trace these functions to match the functionality of the motor...

Not sure if this is the total solution, but thanks for your input!

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Posted by: saladin Apr 1 2021, 01:41 PM

Forgot to mention that the black wire from the 911 wiper switch is for the washer pump and I am using the 914-4 brown/black wire that is already routed from the dash to the washer bottle area. The 914-4 brown/black wire is for an optional intermittent wiper function (in combination with an optional relay installed in the washer bottle area) that is not supported by the 1973 and older 911 wiper switch.

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 1 2021, 03:59 PM

QUOTE(saladin @ Apr 1 2021, 12:41 PM) *

Forgot to mention that the black wire from the 911 wiper switch is for the washer pump and I am using the 914-4 brown/black wire that is already routed from the dash to the washer bottle area. The 914-4 brown/black wire is for an optional intermittent wiper function (in combination with an optional relay installed in the washer bottle area) that is not supported by the 1973 and older 911 wiper switch.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=8125 - I'm not near my car right now, and I'm using a stock 914/6 switch, but I think I follow what you're saying.
- Agree that the Black-wire from the switch controls pump function, have already run that to the pump.
- Current obstacle is seeing which wiper switch corresponds to which-speed on the motor, believe your diagram will help me with that
- Final, need to see which wire on the 914 harness gets connected to the washer-pump function so that when I spay the washers, the wipers automatically come on. My car is a 70' and the harness is a 75', so no relay in the cowl area, though that wouldn't be difficult to add.

In case I don't mention it enough, thanks for your correspondence.

Posted by: saladin Apr 1 2021, 10:17 PM

The 914-6 / 911 wiper switch activates the washer pump in two different stages according to the 914-6 owners manual shown below: 1st stage liquid only and 2nd stage activates the wipers as the wiper switch is designed to route power to the motor through the already wired motor wires.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 6 2021, 10:25 AM

Well unfortunately, stock-piling my parts and components during the week didn't exactly pan-out as I had to work over the weekend. I was, however, able to carve out time to connect and wire the amp, speakers, and receiver. As I mentioned previously, I went with an 'all Pioneer' system. After doing the initial sounds test, very impressed with the speakers and the smart 'app' to control the receiver unit.

Aside from the sound system, I finally connected the oil-tank to the engine. The previous setup had tons of breathers (2 in-front, 1 in rear). Though I don't think I need that many, wondering if I need to add one somewhere. If anyone has any input, please let me know! bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar May 5 2021, 05:55 PM

Hi All - Hope everyone is staying busy and healthy!

I was finally able to start to overcome a pretty-big hurdle and found a shop (one that is familiar with this and the previous black-car) to finish-off the wiring and get everything running! smilie_pokal.gif

Meanwhile, while the car is getting the professional treatment I'm using this time to try and catch up on the miscellaneous items. First up, finishing up the sound-system peripherals. Luckily, 914Rubber makes this easy with their thermally formed speaker-pods. Unboxing these, they work pretty well, and allow you to use a modern 5-inch to 6 1/2-inch speaker. (https://914rubber.com/uncut-thermal-formed-speaker-pod-set-1)

The ONLY downside to these units is that they are made out of thermal-formed plastic, rather than something more sturdy like fiberglass. While a great jumping-off point, this makes the end product a bit flimsy and hard to work with, and doesn't leave the best finish around the edges. To fix this, I asked our fiberglass modeler to apply a reinforcement layer before cutting out the holes for the Pioneer speakers.

Regarding the speakers, believe I went to the 'maximum size' of 6-1/2", and it's pushing it a bit. I'll work on the general fitment later, but for now, believe I'll have to add a 1" ABS 'ring' to accomodate the mounting holes. In any case, believe these look MUCH better than the originals and love the fact they allow for a bigger and more modern speaker. bye1.gif

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Posted by: Steve May 5 2021, 06:01 PM

Are you going to run a subwoofer? Those speakers in those plastic enclosures sound really tinny compared to mounting them in the doors.

Posted by: RiqueMar May 5 2021, 07:17 PM

QUOTE(Steve @ May 5 2021, 05:01 PM) *

Are you going to run a subwoofer? Those speakers in those plastic enclosures sound really tinny compared to mounting them in the doors.


Hey @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=822 - Definitely thinking to run a subwoofer - possibly an 8" in my center-console, though it's not high on my to-do after my initial test with these speakers. Hooked them up and ran music for about 2-hours and was pretty pleased with the sound and clarity. Completely agree that doors are usually the best option, but went with this compromise for the tidiness and the ability to run my Getty doors (unless I move to something more GT inspired).

If I remember correctly, you had a setup in your car, mind sharing?

Posted by: Steve May 5 2021, 11:23 PM

I’m running the same enclosures with infinity speakers. My daughters boy friend Brandon has a v8 914 with the speakers in the doors. Huge difference, but I also don’t want to cut holes in my doors. His were already cut. I thought a subwoofer would help. I also have not installed one yet.
It’s on my list of things to do.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2021, 09:52 AM

Long time no update, but incredible progress!

I was finally able to 'round-off' the vehicle enough to take it to a local shop, European Motorsports (https://emsautorepair.com) and get the ECU and DME functioning properly. While there, I also asked the staff to 'double-check' the wiring work I had done previously. While the wiring was pretty straight forward, I'm glad the car was in their hands as it seems that the previous owner used hydraulic-lines instead of fuel-line for the fuel system.

While the hydraulic lines where originally fine - over time the fuel degraded the inner lining, potentially sending bits into the injection system, and made the lines very hard and in-flexible, making them crack easy. Long story short, I'm glad professionals had eyes on this because as soon as the engine was fired up, we had multiple fuel-leaks that would have almost certainly resulted in a engine fire. Now, the car has all-new fuel lines and fittings, and is functioning well!

Crisis averted!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2021, 10:18 AM

Now that the car is back at the house and running, taking this opportunity to do the 'fun stuff' and begin assembling the odds and ends and hopefully get this thing on the road soon! First up, finishing off the oil-system fans and fan-shroud. Unfortunately, during the run of oil-coolers earlier this year, I depleted my stash of fans, so my unit took a back-seat to fill orders. Happy to get this painted, assembled, wired and covered!

Also, seeing as the fuel-system is done and the tank is ready to go in permanently (I hope), also spent the weekend focusing on this area. Fuel-tank pads, fuel-lever sender, lines to the charcoal canister, etc.

bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 8 2021, 12:12 PM

Last-update for today....

Last year during the pandemic I started a 914-centered business with the aim of attracting new generations of car-enthusiasts, 914Seis. My hope is to show enthusiasts, especially those of my generation, what great a great car the 914 is and encourage more events and products in the market and community. I hope everyone in the 914 community and this site will welcome this new venture of mine and visit the site, https://www.914seis.com, often for Blog-posts, tech reviews, and events!

Most recently, I've posted photos of the latest Southern California 914-run through Temecula, Pauma, and Mountain Center. In the near future, I hope to have eCommerce capabilities to host and offer 914 products and gear.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jun 30 2021, 10:55 AM

Hi All!

Back from Route-66, and sharing some of my favorite photos. Special shout-out to @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=481 (JP) for hosting. Check out 914Seis.com website shortly for the all of them!

bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 2 2021, 07:20 PM

The journey continues - front trunk is wrapped up. Fuel-pump, Fuel-filter, Fans, shroud, Relays, Blower, Fuel-sender, and even my windshield washers are working! Engine, while running, is on hold after I found a fuel-leak on one of the houses leading from the fuel rails to the pressure regulator. Began to replace 1 and ended up replacing each of the hoses on the top of the engine. For those debating whether-or-not to do the same, consider these hoses are now at or near 30 years old. When I took out the first, the hose was just moving freely inside the fitting.

For those looking to do the same, part numbers as follows. Buyer beware, while not cheap they ARE worth it:
964 110 411 03
964 110 412 02
964 110 413 01
964 110 595 02

Seems to me, the easiest way to do this on 964 / 993 engines is to remove the entire intake manifold. Taking a 'now or never' approach to this last night, I jumped right in and it's much easier than I expected. Entire operation took me about 2-hours, and that was going very slowly and disassembling other parts to be re-plated, documenting the fuel-injector order and location, and deciding to paint my intake manifold to match my front-fan shroud. I'll jump back in tonight to clean up the years of grime, clean out the intakes, etc.

First order is to clean up the disassembled top-end, then install the new lines, organize the cabling and probably install new safety sheathing to make it match the rest of the car.
While I know the 3.6 is stuffed in there, my OCD won't let me just put it in and move on.

Happy 4th everyone! flag.gif



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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 4 2021, 02:37 PM

The cleanup continues! Everything disassembled, including injectors, stacks, manifold and wiring. I’m going to classify this as ‘weight reduction’ seeing as how I’m taking loads if grime, oil, dust and fuel off. To be frank, I wish I would have done this before installing the engine, but I realize now that I was just intimidated by the manifolds, wiring, and fuel injection system. To anyone reading, this is not that difficult.

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Posted by: Cairo94507 Jul 4 2021, 06:31 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 [b] Way to go! You will be so happy you took the time to clean all of that up and organize the wiring the to the extent possible. Happy 4th. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 8 2021, 07:14 PM

Well, I got a bit out of sequence, but the engine intake / fuel-system overhaul proceeds. Decided to nix the idea to match the Intake manifold to the color of the shroud in-front, and went with a satin black. As for all the equipment like the nuts, bolts, straps and brackets; I've sent those all to plating to match and hope to get them back Monday.

While I posted a thread on painting the manifold that received mixed feedback on painting the manifold, I had success using SEM 'trim' black as well as an adhesion promoter. In general, I thoroughly degreased and cleaned the manifold before rinsing it several times in simple water to make sure all the cleaning materials were off. After letting it sit for about 24-hours, I used sanding paper to take away any big dents and scotch-bright to prep the surface before rinsing in water a final-time. Two coats of adhesion promoter 10 minutes apart, then three coats of trim black before letting them hang for 24 hours. I'm very pleased, these look alot less-weathered.

The manifold is getting all new fittings and hoses as well as the previously mentioned fuel-lines (Thanks Pelican 0 http://www.pelicanparts.com/. Pulling the injectors and fuel-rail I'm happy that all were working and in very good condition (They run about $250 per-injector... yikes! blink.gif ) so no need to replace. I have cleaned out and also ordered all-new O-rings as well as gaskets for my previously VERY dirty) manifold and throttle-body.

Hoping to start updating next-week with some engine / parts-bling photos.

bye1.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 9 2021, 05:55 PM

Special shout-out to https://www.yelp.com/biz/a-and-d-plating-escondido of Escondido, CA. I was pleased to get a call this afternoon that my parts where done less than 24-hours after dropping them off. Very excited to begin re-assembling the intake and fuel system this weekend, and even more excited that it's not a 'mix' of equipment.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 14 2021, 11:03 AM

General re-assembly pics! To be honest, this is taking longer than I originally expected.

Re-assembling the manifold is trickier than it looks, as so many of the rubber connectors have to be aligned. I originally re-assembled the setup on my work-table but last night when I began attaching it to the engine, it was too difficult to get everything aligned, and I quickly realized I need to do it in parts (Left side, Right Side, then center). There is definitely a process that I'm not aware of, but I'm happy with how everything is turning out and I'm learning more about the engine, components, and how each works or functions.

In the end, everything will either be new or refurbished, I'll know how to access or disassemble the assembly, and it'll be worth it....

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Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2021, 05:58 PM

I was so excited to get a text from the wheel and rim supplier my family and I work with often. For those of you in the San Diego / Orange County area, look no-further than San Diego Motoring (https://www.sdmotoring.com). Don and his group are well priced, wheel experts, and always a pleasure to deal with.

Unfortunately, these were sent out to a finisher in the OC/LA-area (I won't say which) to be refinished and painted, and they really dropped the ball, were very late, and had a bad-attitude about the whole order. While the general paint-scheme is correct, I wanted the Grey much darker. Even though I provided a sample and the Finisher agreed that it didn't come out as expected (too lite), he refused to correct them and that he is too-busy to redo them, they would affect his schedule too much. A sort of 'take it or leave it' attitude.

I'm fortunate to be working with SD-Motoring and we both agreed that this wasn't what I ordered, so the finishing basically came out as a wash. I'll take the rims for now, get rubber on them tomorrow and decide on a new route later. I'll have to figure out what to do from here; Re-paint, Powder Coat, or just sell the pieces and go with another direction.

Not the best day, but for now 'forward' is the attitude.

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Posted by: mepstein Jul 15 2021, 06:35 PM

Let’s see how they look next to the car.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2021, 06:51 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 15 2021, 05:35 PM) *

Let’s see how they look next to the car.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Yep. Getting rubber now and will pick them up tomorrow afternoon. Hankook 205/55 in front and 225/50 in the rear.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 15 2021, 06:51 PM

Double post - my bad

Posted by: Root_Werks Jul 16 2021, 12:29 PM

Oooooo, I like those! Very nice choice on the finish and colors!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 17 2021, 12:49 PM

Completely disrupting my ‘To-Do’ list for the day, and putting these on. I’m coming around, though I think I might change the tire to something with a ‘sharper’ profile…


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Posted by: Cairo94507 Jul 17 2021, 02:29 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 - Coming along nice; I like how you totally cleaned up the engine and the wheels look good too. How long before that baby is driving?

Will you be making the Werks Reunion in Monterey on August 13th? My car is entered and hopefully everything will work out so I can be there. beerchug.gif

Posted by: john77 Jul 17 2021, 04:26 PM

I really like your wheels! They look mean.

The grey has just enough contrast to stand out against the black - I wonder if you went darker whether they might just have looked one flat color in certain light?

Posted by: infraredcalvin Jul 17 2021, 05:25 PM

You might like the lighter grey come photo time. Dark dark grey and black wheels lose the detail on photographs. I think the color you have looks great.

Posted by: mepstein Jul 17 2021, 06:13 PM

I like the wheels. Different from the rsr look that everyone has but more defined than all black.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 18 2021, 06:44 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Jul 17 2021, 01:29 PM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 - Coming along nice; I like how you totally cleaned up the engine and the wheels look good too. How long before that baby is driving?

Will you be making the Werks Reunion in Monterey on August 13th? My car is entered and hopefully everything will work out so I can be there. beerchug.gif


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 - Gracias Señor! A few more electrical items to sort out, and that should be done this next week. From there, all I will have to do it 'clean up' the harness. I'm very much pushing to make it to WCR this year, I think it would be a great first event for the car, and it seems feasible.

I'm going to try to work-in Werks reunion (I've never been). If I do, I'll most likely just come up for the day / weekend. Hopefully it works out for both of us so we can meet up!

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 18 2021, 06:49 PM

QUOTE(john77 @ Jul 17 2021, 03:26 PM) *

I really like your wheels! They look mean.

The grey has just enough contrast to stand out against the black - I wonder if you went darker whether they might just have looked one flat color in certain light?


QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Jul 17 2021, 04:25 PM) *

You might like the lighter grey come photo time. Dark dark grey and black wheels lose the detail on photographs. I think the color you have looks great.


QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 17 2021, 05:13 PM) *

I like the wheels. Different from the rsr look that everyone has but more defined than all black.


Thanks for your input everyone, much appreciated. Not what I originally wanted, but they're definitely growing on me and I figure I'll try them out for a few-months / year. I am going to check on different tire options come tomorrow, as I want something with a sharper profile. This is what I was originally inspired by, and wanted to go a bit darker....



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Posted by: bahnzai Jul 19 2021, 09:59 AM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 8 2021, 09:14 PM) *

Well, I got a bit out of sequence, but the engine intake / fuel-system overhaul proceeds. Decided to nix the idea to match the Intake manifold to the color of the shroud in-front, and went with a satin black. As for all the equipment like the nuts, bolts, straps and brackets; I've sent those all to plating to match and hope to get them back Monday.

While I posted a thread on painting the manifold that received mixed feedback on painting the manifold, I had success using SEM 'trim' black as well as an adhesion promoter. In general, I thoroughly degreased and cleaned the manifold before rinsing it several times in simple water to make sure all the cleaning materials were off. After letting it sit for about 24-hours, I used sanding paper to take away any big dents and scotch-bright to prep the surface before rinsing in water a final-time. Two coats of adhesion promoter 10 minutes apart, then three coats of trim black before letting them hang for 24 hours. I'm very pleased, these look alot less-weathered.

The manifold is getting all new fittings and hoses as well as the previously mentioned fuel-lines (Thanks Pelican 0 http://www.pelicanparts.com/. Pulling the injectors and fuel-rail I'm happy that all were working and in very good condition (They run about $250 per-injector... yikes! blink.gif ) so no need to replace. I have cleaned out and also ordered all-new O-rings as well as gaskets for my previously VERY dirty) manifold and throttle-body.

Hoping to start updating next-week with some engine / parts-bling photos.

bye1.gif


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Rique,
I know that you are beyond this point, but some added info in case someone reads this down the road. When I had my 3.6 out last year for engine harness replacement (1995 Porsche recall item due to failing wire insulation), I had the fuel injectors rebuilt. I found the service through Rockauto.com at $32 per injector. Rebuild was:Removal of Surface Rust And Ultra-Sonically cleaned, Replacement of O-Rings, Seals, and Washers, Ohm and Flow-Tested to Ensure OE Specifications


GB Remanufacturing Inc.
Attn: R&R Department
2040 E. Cherry Industrial Circle
Long Beach, CA 90805-4410
(608) 661-1376

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 19 2021, 11:59 AM

QUOTE(bahnzai @ Jul 19 2021, 08:59 AM) *


Rique,
I know that you are beyond this point, but some added info in case someone reads this down the road. When I had my 3.6 out last year for engine harness replacement (1995 Porsche recall item due to failing wire insulation), I had the fuel injectors rebuilt. I found the service through Rockauto.com at $32 per injector. Rebuild was:Removal of Surface Rust And Ultra-Sonically cleaned, Replacement of O-Rings, Seals, and Washers, Ohm and Flow-Tested to Ensure OE Specifications


GB Remanufacturing Inc.
Attn: R&R Department
2040 E. Cherry Industrial Circle
Long Beach, CA 90805-4410
(608) 661-1376


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=6509 - Thank you Señor Danny! I was interested in this, but was having trouble finding a shop that offered the Service ice, currently, no problem with the injectors. I just reassembled everything to retest the wiring changes I made, and referencing a mechanic I'm working with, "Don't fix it until there is a problem" so I'll save this for later. In the meantime, I cleaned what I could and replaced all the O-rings.

One of the things I'm grateful for during this intake rebuild was the understanding it gave me regarding all the equipment on the top of the engine as well as the connections; Vacuum lines, Wiring, etc.. Further, this is helping me understand what I'll need to do in the future, as I want some sort of ITB solution (PMO, AT Power, etc.)

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 19 2021, 01:28 PM

Heading out on another round of business trips tomorrow, so spent the weekend wrapping up different items because the car is going back to European Motorsports while I'm gone. Now that I've either replaced or rebuilt all the intake manifold components and engine fuel lines, the guys at European will be giving it the final 'push' to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. I think I mentioned previously that, while everything worked there were alot of 'question-marks' about the installation in the previous car. Some of the things I found....

- Engine ECU was not getting constant 12v. This was causing it to 'reset' and 'relearn' each time it was started up.

- Fuel pump was not connected to the DME relay, but rather directly to the ignition switch.

- Different indicators were not connected, some of them.... pretty important. Alternator light, Engine Temp, Check Engine, Oil Tempt, Diagnostic Port, etc.


In addition, I found I really needed a 'break' from the wiring sometimes, so I found small side-projects to do on the car - such as installing the air-horn, new 19mm Master Cylinder from 914Rubber and brake lines. Question for anyone reading this; I see that the electrical connections on the Master cylinder has 1-pole, however it looks like my wiring has 2x connections that don't lead anywhere, does anyone have any reference on this? bye1.gif

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Posted by: mepstein Jul 19 2021, 07:09 PM

You just tie away the extra wire. Very common issue but it still works fine.

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 20 2021, 02:19 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 19 2021, 06:09 PM) *

You just tie away the extra wire. Very common issue but it still works fine.


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=10825 - Thanks, this is a new area for me. I suppose I'll have to find the indicator for my brake warning light, seems easy enough, or I can add a light to the dash. idea.gif

Posted by: ValcoOscar Jul 20 2021, 02:41 PM

QUOTE(john77 @ Jul 17 2021, 03:26 PM) *

I really like your wheels! They look mean.

The grey has just enough contrast to stand out against the black - I wonder if you went darker whether they might just have looked one flat color in certain light?



agree.gif with John...

I like the contrast, unique and tasteful.

Just my 2 cents!!!! beerchug.gif

Oscar

Posted by: RiqueMar Jul 20 2021, 02:53 PM

Car is off to European Motorsports again this morning! I was happy when the Owner, Joe, commented on the work I did on the Engine-bay and intake manifold. Before loading it up last night, I wanted to wrap-up the Fuel-system and anything located below the tank. Though its not necessarily difficult, it's not exactly 'fun' getting in there and I want it done with once-and-for-all.

First up, the fresh air-box. While connecting the old drains after installing the windshield washer pump, the ribbed-plastic simply broke (too old). Thanks to Bruce Stone, he recommended irrigation / drain-hose from Lowes. I was able to rig up a solution that will last alot longer, not break, and even has a barb and nut that holds it to the bottom of the car. For this, I used a 7/8 ID x 1-1/4 hose, the original plastic 'Y' connector, and a barb / threaded pipe fitting with a 1" nut to hold it to the floor-pan and a hose-clamp for the very-bottom connection. cheer.gif

Last item before putting in the tank, the fuel evap. and overflow hoses. For those looking for a solution, visit the 'Fuel and Exhaust' section of the https://914rubber.com/all-parts-hardware/fuel-exhaust-systems?p=1 website. Mark and his crew have a whole setup, from the overflow lines to the grommets and plastic lines that run to the engine bay (I'll have to figure out where to connect them on my 3.6 manifold, or just exhaust out the bottom of the car). I haven't hooked up the lines completely, but everything is run.

Pro-tip when installing the over-flow hose, I found it was a really tight fit, and couldn't get it onto the tank fitting. I ended up putting a pair of pliers into the hose, opening them, and then holding that end in-front of a heat-gun. It will give you just that extra space you need.

Off to a trip now, hoping the car will be ready for pick-up when I get back. If not, sounds like I'll be focusing on refurbishing parts, and painting bumpers and valances. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 9 2021, 02:56 PM

Unfortunately, the guys at European weren't able to finish this off before a vacation break, so the car will be back in a couple of weeks. In the meantime, I'm wrapping up 'odds and ends' and trying to carve out 1-2 hours a day to do the little-things; Bumpers, Interior, trim, whatever I can find.

Last-weekend, I was able to carve out some time to give the bumpers a final-pass before paint. Though I had originally planned to spay them with a paint-gun, I have had great experience with SEM in a can lately and figured I would give it a try and use this coat as 'primer'. I'm happy to say that if these are given the right amount of prep, use adhesion promoter, and painted in the right-environment the 'rattle can' approach is VERY good. As with anything paint / bodywork related, you get what your pay/prep for.

Previously, these were cut, modified and blended for my GT Cooler and then sprayed with 'feather-fill', so they only needed a bit of polyester for a few small details. I stayed away from the pneumatic and electronic tools (jitter-bug) to avoid any accidents. With the polyester-filler placed in certain spots, I started off with 480 grit, then moved to 800 and finished with 1000 wet/dry. Final prep was with a bit of scotch-brite. Then, 2-coats of adhesion promoter. A 10-minute wait, and I finished with 3-coats of SEM 'trim-black'. About 1-can per-bumper, though I also painted my sail-panel trim during this session.

Note - To give those less-experienced with bodywork, I'de like to give you an idea of the labor put into this. Everything described in the paragraph above, from beginning of prep to painting, took about 6-hours. This does not including the shaping and initial bodywork done previously. It's fair to say that, depending on the condition of your bumpers, starting a project like from scratch can easily take 20-hours of work, without factoring in disassembly/reassembly, sourcing the paint and supplies (not to mention material-cost), and rework. Just my feedback, but I would factor that into your estimation when considering how long this will take, doing it yourself, or contracting.

Pro-tip: See the last-photos of the bumpers staged before painting? It would have been much easier if I would have 'rotated' each bumper 180º so they would face 'out' due to the 'curve'. Something I realized 1/4 of the way into painting. Rear bumper - top toward the painter / Front bumper - bottom toward the painter

** Edit: Weird, I thought I had some 'after photos', but everything is during prep and setup. I'll have to add some later. **


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 9 2021, 03:39 PM

For those following along, you may remember that last year I recovered my dash and put a material directly onto the dash-face at that time. This was a mistake. While it does work, and eliminated the needs for 'plates' and seems, it makes the whole thing difficult when adding a 914/6 ignition, trim pieces, etc. Further, you'll just find yourself MORE frustrated when you decide that you weren't as smart as the original designers and now have to strip all the glue and residue, mask-off, and repaint the front of the dash. headbang.gif

To resolve this, I set out to find 914/6 dash panels, but they were either not available or really poor quality. When I couldn't find anything, I decided to make my own via laser cut. Those interested, see my previous post in the garage here > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=354911&hl=.

I started off with a cardboard model to get my dimensions correct, and have since cut with ABS to verify with a less-forgiving material. Making some modifications to this, I think, for my car atleast, I'll combine the radio plate with the rest of the right-panel as its weird to me that there is a seam right in the middle of the dash. Not sure which material I'll go with yet for the covering, but I'm certain that the plates will be aluminum. This way, owners can use them covered or uncovered. bye1.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 9 2021, 05:07 PM

My most recent work, the roll-bar vinyl and trim. I'm doing a short summary write-up on this for those out there that also have this on their 'to-do' list, as it is not necessarily 'difficult', though it can go wrong in a hurry, be very frustrating, cost-time, and be demoralizing. If you're interested or planning to do the same; Before you go any further read this write-up done by Eric Shea http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=14625&st=0. Have you read it? Good, now read it again. After reading, you'll be familiar with the general process and have an idea of all the supplies needed. As a note, 914Rubber stocks the vinyl material and I recommend using 3M-90 spray adhesive. It's forgiving and easy to use.

This project, like so many others, is ALL about prep. This was actually my second-time applying the vinyl as my first went very-wrong at the end and resulted in about 1/4" of the paint showing. When I tried to correct, I was able to 'reset' one side, however the driver-side cursed, and I had dry-adhesive under the vinyl. headbang.gif Shout out to the whole 914Rubber team for sending me a replacement piece!

Before even starting, I layed out the vinyl overnight so that it will 'lay flat'. I suppose you could also let it sit in the sun, though I would make sure to let it cool as it might expand. Then, I prepped my roll-bar by using a bit of scotch-brite and wiped it down with 'Odorless Mineral Spirits' to eliminate any residue. After that, I masked off the area (I'm only doing the top of the roll-bar) and used tape to 'mark' where my vinyl should end-up. Pro-tip: Before you start spraying adhesive on the car or vinyl, take a few 'test passes' on any extra paper. This will help you anticipate the width of the spray and how you'll lay it down. After that, it's the fun part - spaying. Spray 2-3 coats on the body and 2-3 coats on the vinyl and let it 'sit' until you can touch it with your knuckle and the adhesive doesn't transfer. I did notice that mine went faster than expected, so take the 2-3 minute warning for what it is, a suggestion.

Before applying the vinyl to the car, remove the masking. Reminder, it's easy to forget about the marks made on the masking so be sure to not remove those until you're done.... I made that mistake and suddenly realized I was flying solo and risked another wasted piece. Luckily, everything lined up, and I only needed the smallest amount of glue to 'reset' the Drivers side. If you catch it fast enough, when you spay more adhesive, the existing glue will 'reactivate'. You can see this in photo number 5.

With the vinyl down make sure there are no creases/bubbles and the trim and roll-bar pads will cover the edges, I suggest massaging the piece for the first 5-10 min. After, give everything at least a good 60-min (longer is better) to set before trimming. Trimming is pretty straight forward as the sail-panel aluminum sits flush with the top of the roll-bar, as does the interior pad. Once everything is trimmed, you can then re-apply or apply your new trim. I struggled with this a bit, as I didn't remember exactly how everything went together, so I've included various photos of the brackets and trim to show their orientation.

Note here: The zinc-plated brackets you see in the picture with the Drill? Those actually slide into the long trim piece, I just had them on the car to test fit on the body-trim and measure out where I wanted them to go (4-inches in on each side, the center bracket sits in the middle at 23" from either side).

Another Note: The satin-black trim pieces that you see on either-side of the vinyl are purchased from 914 rubber. THEY ARE side specific. It's pretty obvious which-is-which once you see that the 'squared' side is the rear, and the 'angled' side is the front.

Another Note: The zinc plated brackets that you see next to the engine grille? Tighten these down BEFORE you secure the 'swooped' pieces. If you have a 914/6 or 6-conversion with an oil tank.... Make sure you put that in BEFORE the oil tank.... ask me how I know. dry.gif

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Posted by: autopro Aug 9 2021, 09:58 PM

This is great, thanks for the links and the advice. I'll have to do this in the future and your pictures will be very helpful. Thanks!

Posted by: RiqueMar Aug 11 2021, 10:34 AM

Posting a 'How-to' regarding the removal of the front-trunk pull-handle. Usually, this is done for cleaning and lock replacement, or in my case - both. Looking through the site, I felt like this last part of the project is unrepresented, so sharing the steps I took to remove. It's pretty easy, and only take about 5-minutes.

For the first step, I don't have a picture, you need to make sure you can access the bottom of the handle to remove 1x flat-head screw (you'll see it in the last-photo). This means you might have to remove your speaker-grilles or anything blocking the bottom of the handle. It's pretty short, and only needs a few turns.

Next, move to the front trunk and loosen the bolt that holds down the pull-wire, located inside the mechanism that locks the front-trunk. Straightedges the wire a bit, as much as you can, so it won't 'drag' inside the wire guide. Next, loosen the Phillips-screw that holds the wire-guide on the outside of that same mechanism.

Now, move to pull the handle out of the slot. You only need to pull it out about 6-8 inches. From here, you'll notice that the handle is 'theaded' onto the release wire. Note more-or-less where it is so you don't have to re-adjust when you install the handle. All you need to do is rotate it a few-times, and it will disconnect. In the last photo, you can see the screw from the first step. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 7 2021, 03:00 PM

Since my last post, I made a stop at Werks Reunion and thought I'de share a few photos. Great to see and meet everyone as well as see all the great cars. I especially enjoyed all the modified and 'custom' approaches to the various Porsche models!

Hopefully someday, I can be a part of this great get-together!

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 7 2021, 03:39 PM

Since my last post, I've been hot on the car, stealing an hour or two whenever I can. Alot of progress was made after I picked it up from it's last-session at European Motorsports. We seem to have developed a pretty good cycle of dropping the car off to get items functioning, and then I take out back to the garage to clean up or sort everything out. At this point, the motor is functioning normally, as well as the gauges and status lights (Check engine, Fuel gauge and Light, Alternator Light, Oil Pressure, etc.). Though it came back as a 'rats nest', I'm very happy with the result in sorting it all and making a new section of the harness.

Pro-tip: Work like this is tedious. The following photos don't do the portion of this project justice. All-in-all, just organizing and forming the harness took me the better part of 20-hours. It will be 'messy' at times, so I've found that the best practice is to jump in and re-organize and clean-up every so often using male/female connectors to shorten and consolidate color-schemes and then replace those wires with the correct gauge or color-code. I used zip-ties (alot of zip-ties) to form a section, run the wires, cut and re-solder, only to find a better or 'cleaner' way as I proceeded. Patience is key.

Once I had the general form down and 'tested' the startup every so-often, I used electrical tape to form the structure of the harness, and then wrapped everything with safety sheathing. For this specific section, I used an open-ended safety sheathing in case I have to get back in there. Finally, I added a fuse / ground block for everything related to engine management. For the time being, this keeps everything tidy, as well as keeps my options open for the future should I switch to a different engine management system (dare I say ITBs? w00t2.gif)

After the main ECU harness was done, I spent this last weekend sorting the center-console gauges and hooking-up the Diagnostic plug. Easy enough in my configuration, as there are only about 5-connections for various sensors, RPM, and codes. Though I'm not 100% sure where it will be located in the future, I'm currently thinking inside the center console or underneath the dashboard. We'll see. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 7 2021, 04:36 PM

In-between wiring (to keep my sanity) I've been trying to tackle the basic 914 related stuff; Clutch and Accelerator cable, Shifter and linkage, and Dash-fascia. Those following along will remember that a few weeks ago I was having trouble finding the dash-panels for a 914/6, so I made my own, and added some customization by combining the radio plate with the piece that starts on the Drivers right-side.

The first models were made out of aluminum and, even though I thought they looked great, I wanted to go with something a little more period-correct. I ended up settling on the early vinyl (thanks to 914Rubber), and am very happy with the result. Application is easy enough (follow this great video from Ian Karr found here > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP1IA944nyM&t=1444s).

Pro-tip: Setup your work area in advance and don't be afraid to use a 'sharpie' to mark out your layout, it will help you both save material, and give you a good idea of how things will end-up. This is especially helpful for the area right before the glove box and around the 914/6 ignition key, there you have to cut and wrap the vinyl around the backside of the panel. I saved these challenging areas for last, once the majority of the glue had dried and set, and then cut slices so everything could 'lay' nicely. To make sure they stayed down, I held them to the piece with some blue painters tape for about 30-minutes.

Another Pro-tip: To make your life a whooole-lot easier, you can remove the fresh-air control face. Just drill out the two rivets (seen in the photo, circled in red). From there, the slider-levers will pop out of the plastic. This will not only save the trim around the controls face from getting damaged (ask me how I know) but is waaaaaay easier than disconnecting the control wires, from the control or under the cowl. Once your dash-plate is on, just replace with 2x M4 screws. You can thank me later, beer appreciated.

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Posted by: Montreal914 Sep 7 2021, 05:56 PM

Very nice!
I assume if was for the radio installation that the cars came with a separate panel, but I always though the vinyl vertical joint line was “unfinished”. dry.gif
When I get to my dash, I will definitely do the vinyl one piece from steering to glove box like you did. smilie_pokal.gif
Please post a picture once everything is done. smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 7 2021, 07:11 PM

QUOTE(Montreal914 @ Sep 7 2021, 04:56 PM) *

Very nice!
I assume if was for the radio installation that the cars came with a separate panel, but I always though the vinyl vertical joint line was “unfinished”. dry.gif
When I get to my dash, I will definitely do the vinyl one piece from steering to glove box like you did. smilie_pokal.gif
Please post a picture once everything is done. smile.gif




@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12023 - Same. For me once you see that line, you can't unsee it. Maybe I'm just too picky, but it looks weird.

If you like, I think I have some prototype pieces. They may need some sanding or trimming (I remember the radio / heater control inlet was about 1/32" too small). Let me know if these would help.

Posted by: Montreal914 Sep 7 2021, 07:20 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Sep 7 2021, 06:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Montreal914 @ Sep 7 2021, 04:56 PM) *

Very nice!
I assume if was for the radio installation that the cars came with a separate panel, but I always though the vinyl vertical joint line was “unfinished”. dry.gif
When I get to my dash, I will definitely do the vinyl one piece from steering to glove box like you did. smilie_pokal.gif
Please post a picture once everything is done. smile.gif




@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12023 - Same. For me once you see that line, you can't unsee it. Maybe I'm just too picky, but it looks weird.

If you like, I think I have some prototype pieces. They may need some sanding or trimming (I remember the radio / heater control inlet was about 1/32" too small). Let me know if these would help.


Thank you for the offer. I am unfortunately far from getting into the dash in my rebuild project. Also I still haven’t decided what I will be doing for the radio. I am fully aware of your laser cutting and panel fabrication abilities. sunglasses.gif
Nice to see beautiful projects getting closer to the end. Thank you for sharing the process! smilie_pokal.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Sep 8 2021, 07:31 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9478 - Making nice progress brother. Thanks for the photo smile.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 8 2021, 11:16 PM

Aaaaaaaaand my engine won't start now. Had it starting/reving/idling consistently while cleaning up the wiring. I think I must have connected something wrong, because over the weekend while testing gauges I noticed the DME and ECU were warm to the touch. Disconnecting the DME, believe I have a short somewhere in the system, because even when the DME relay is unplugged, I'm still getting voltage when touching various wires / connections

For now, I'm moving onto the more 'general' 914 things; Bleeding the Brakes, Accelerator/Clutch Cables, E-Brake, Shifter, etc. While I'm grateful to have learned so much so far, I don't want to dig in too much as I'm still very much a novice on the subject. For anyone following along, I've created the following diagram documenting my work so-far, I'm sure it's just a wire thats connected wrong or something, any input from the 'pro's' is appreciated.

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 9 2021, 01:07 PM

Update, only because I'm very excited to have received this photo showing my entirely new and refurbished locks and handles. Cannot wait to get these on the car next-week!

For all those out there looking at re-keying and refinishing your locks and handles, look no-further than @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=666

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 10 2021, 11:46 AM

Reminder - How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. I just realized that my last post mark 1,000 on this build thread. Wow, what a trip.

Based on the fact that I had it running previously I've resigned myself to that the engine not starting is something simple, or that some wire was connected wrong. My mechanic will be back in 2-weeks and I'm almost positive he'll have it working in less-than an hour once he's infront of it. Stepping away from the wiring again, I'm focusing on the 'fun' part of the restoration and yesterday was all-about the rear-window.

I'll be honest, I was a bit-intimidated reading up about the installation at first. For those looking to do the same or a 'How to' guide, the write-up in the Classics Section (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=15821 - by Eric Shea) will give you everything you need to know. One 'note' I would like to add as the post was created some time ago; The 'rubber mounts' mentioned in Step 5 are now available via 914Rubber (link to their website here > https://914rubber.com/spacer-for-windscreen). They are the same spacers/rubber mounts used to install the front windshield.

For me, this installation was easy enough. Just like so many other 'finishing items', it's all about prep work. Make sure to clean and prep the chassis window frame, I used a bit of lacquer thinner and followed with odorless mineral-spirits, as well as the glass itself. Also, consider cleaning the body-pieces on either side of the engine bay... This is the easiest it will ever-be. Leave the glass in an easy position to pick-up (it's awkward) and begin to apply the butyl tape. Just like the installation thread, I started in the passenger top-right corner, and began to work my way around. In my opinion, it's not so 'sticky' as much as tacky, and pretty easy to handle. Get it as straight as you can, but also remember it will smush and deform once you press on the glass. Also, expect to have extra tape (maybe 24-inches), and be prepared to cut the tape once you've made the full 'loop'. Final step here is to give it one last 'push' all around to make sure it's making contact, and then remove the paper-backing.

From here, place the rubber spacers (I put mine in the extreme corners of the bottom of the glass) and pick-up the glass. I found it easiest to line up the glass below the frame, and then go directly up and in, resting one-side on the rubber-spacer then the other because there is a channel you have to get into. This will let you make sure the glass is positioned properly, and if you're a bit off, you can still reset the glass because it's not making full-contact with the tape. Don't worry about resetting it, the tape is pretty playable and workable. Once it's exactly when you want it, give constant pressure to the edges of the glass and push it toward the tape. I did this for about 5-minutes, working my way around the glass. If you have OCD, like myself, I also took this opportunity to 'push in' the butyl from the backside using my fingers, so that everything looks uniform. This was easier than 'cutting' any globs that may have formed. Final step is to take black-electrical tape, and apply it at the bottom. This is purely cosmetic.

Some notes I had after completing this...
- I wish I would have painted the body-color strip that is on the bottom-portion of where the glass will sit. Kinda looks weird that it's orange, but I also think that this will get covered by the engine deck lid/rubber molding.
- I wish I would have gone 'higher' and 'lower' when putting on the butyl-tape along the top and bottom. I had to push-in alot of tape once I was done, and looking at the photos I could have applied it better, touching the top-portion of the roll-bar and top-most portion of the firewall.
- Erics write-up specifies putting the VW logo 'readable from the inside', behind the Drivers head. I put it on the opposite, legible from the outside, because that is how the windows are. Doesn't really matter, unless I'm missing something confused24.gif
- I don't plan on running a back-pad, so I'm going to look for 'wider' electrical tape.
- All in, this took me about 1.5 hours, including the prep work to the frame and cleaning the glass.

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Posted by: Curbandgutter Sep 10 2021, 01:19 PM

Rique you're doing fantastic work! Wow.

Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 12 2021, 12:38 PM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=15637 - Thank you. Just reviewed your thread again, and I'm sorry to hear that you were so-down, but very glad to hear that you are back at it. Stay strong and healthy, hoping your project brings you that extra bit off inspiration and health.


Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 12 2021, 02:04 PM

Taking a short break after today and yesterday before I get back on the project, and thought I would update this build-thread. Yesterday was all about the heater-blower system. I didn't notice (mostly because I never needed it in Southern CA) however, the wiring and system that was in the last car didn't have the blower exactly 'functioning'. Also, reviewing photos yesterday on this same thread, I see the soft-tubes that connect the HEs to the body weren't even installed. I'de like to take this car everywhere, and even have a dream to do a European tour one day, so this is a 'must have'.

Reading through the wiring diagrams, the Bowlsby-site is invaluable for something like this (https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm) and even more so, as my original relay-board has been deleted, forcing me to come up with my own-scheme that includes a relay and fuse solution. If you reference the first-photo showing the 14-pin connector that plugs into the relay board, you'll notice that there are two-leads, #9 and #11, associated with the heater switch (the lever in the cabin) and the blower that is in the engine bay, the second image shows the 'stock setup' that lists both fuse and relay. The solution I used was to install a 14-pin connector, and make the 'Ground' for the relay correspond to the heater-switch, as when its 'ON' it grounds Pin 85 on the relay, turning the system on. Also, I moved the 'hot lead' to correspond to the ignition, it didn't make sense to me that the fan would be running with the engine-off.

Additionally, as I'de like to later install another fan on the passenger-side, both providing more air-flow and making the engine bay look cleaner (no heater-hoses running up and over the engine), I left another relay for another fan in the future. If I end-up not going this direction, I like knowing that I have another relay there that I can turn on either with a signal from one of the existing leads, or 'piggy-back' on the leads originally meant for the tach, fuel-pump, etc. One more thing, I also added in in-line fuse to the fan. Though I'm thinking that if I add more equipment later, I'll add a fuse block or wiring box, like in the front trunk. Maybe I'm overthinking it, thats enough for now.

Happy Sunday everyone, back to work for me! bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 13 2021, 01:46 PM

Continuing on yesterday, I was able to get the pedal system completely hooked-up.

For those 'newbies', a warning/recommendation; This isn't necessarily fun or easy, but is a vital skill to have for basic maintenance / roadside repairs. Almost every event that I've been to, someone has either had a clutch or accelerator cable break or had to make an adjustment on the side of the road / at the hotel. It's something you need to know as a 914-owner.

I'm only going to generally describe connecting the cables to the transmission or throttle, because my car and drivetrain (964 3.6 and 915 trans) is most likely not the norm, nor is my cable setup (Clutch cable unknown / Accelerator cable from Patrick Motorsports). First time installation is easy enough as you probably won't have the pedal board in yet. For me, it easiest to run your cables through the center tunnel (there are tubes inside the center tunnel for clutch and accelerator) BEFORE hooking them up to the throttle or clutch, but there are several ways to start. NOTE: At the 'Drivers end' of the center tunnel is an access window. I don't usually use it, but it might make things easier reaching into the tunnel.

-------

For the accelerator: You can start either in the engine bay and pull the cable through the sheet metal OR start halfway, beginning below the car and feeding the cable into the tunnel and then under the engine through the sheet metal. I started halfway and fed the accelerator cable through the tunnel first. Once it's all the way through, move to the pedal area and you should find the cable laying on the floor of the tunnel, close to where the drivers heel will be. Mine was a bit elusive this time around, but you'll get it. Once through, place the 'ball end' connector and locking nuts on, and connect it to the lever on the right-side of the pedal cluster.

You should notice that the 'lever' has two ball-ends; One ball-end is for the cable which faces the passenger side of the car (described in the previous paragraph) and the other is used for a small rod that has a ball-end on the pedal cluster side and a rounded end that fits into the back of your accelerator. I usually wait until the clutch cable is hooked up to install the rod and accelerator, it makes working down there much easier.

For the clutch: First, I slide the clutch cable into the tube at the firewall, and it should exit out the tube near the pedal cluster, just like the accelerator. It's easy cross the cables when hooking them up, so make sure they aren't tangled, because this will give you 'revs' when you're trying to shift. Typically, because it has a longer threaded-end, the clutch cable it easier to find. Before you put on the clevis that connects it to the pedal cluster, put on a nut to make sure it doesn't move (I actually use two). Push the clevis so that either end is on the outside of the pedal connection, and then put your locking pin in, and it should 'swing' and lock-against the cable.

At this point, you need to decide whether-or-not to put your pedal board and accelerator. This part is pretty easy and self-explanatory, but I will say that it is much easier without the accelerator pedal in-place.

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Now, we move back to the transmission and engine. Make sure the cables aren't crossed, and route them to their appropriate connections before securing them to the bottom of the engine with a hose clamp or similar piece of hardware. For the clutch on the 915, it's pretty easy to connect as it simply needs the clutch-stop piece put on, goes through the pulley, and then has another pin and clasp to finish up. All shown in the photo.

For the accelerator, and connecting to a 3.6, it's a little more tricky. I had to feed the cable up and through the 914/6 sheetmetal and route it while trying to keep it clear of all the fuel-injection hoses and wires. Patience here, it took me the better part of 30 minutes to make sure nothing was tangled or wrapped around an engine hard-fuel line. Once past the initial cluster of wires and cables, the cable will go through a zinc-plated bracket located on the intake manifold, just below the throttle body (photo attached, circled in red). You should find that the cable has a rubber grommet that secures it to the intake manifold. The grommet isn't so-much a problem, but it can get tight working in there. Give yourself plenty of light and space, and take your time. From there, and once secure on the grommet the cable will go through an 'arm' that controls the throttle position.

While you'll still have to adjust both cables to get the proper throttle and clutch response, thats a post for another time. For now, congratulations, you're done. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Sep 30 2021, 04:45 PM

I knew I was going to be traveling recently, so I used this opportunity to have the painter touch-up a few areas on the car and re-spray the trunk since it had a bunch of holes from the original mounting of the ECU. Main concern was a small rust-bubble on the passenger side 'sail', and a spot behind the original paint-code tag. Glad this was the least of my problems, and that we sand-blasted the car before paint. I'm fortunate that we arranged for the painter to come to my house to do much of the 'prep', and then towed the car out to my Fathers ranch to get painted while I was away in Vegas.

Though it's not 100% complete yet, I was able to stop-by yesterday and check-out the progress. I've posted some before and afters and am very happy with how it's progressing. Great that this can still move-forward even when I'm not working on it. I'm hoping to have it completed in the next few days!

bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 1 2021, 01:19 PM

Re-reading my thread from the start I made it to about page-17 when I came to a realization. I suppose I came to a point that everyman arrives to at some-time... "Wow.... I really didn't know what the hell I was doing..."

-------

Anyway, moving on from that I've been plugging along as the car was getting prepped and focused on bleeding the brakes, setting the e-brake cables and setting the proper venting-clearance on the rotors.

For venting the rotors, check out this thread that I started > http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=355776&hl=

As for bleeding the brakes, something that was left unclear to me from various threads - bleeding the Master Cyl. (MC). If you have a new MC, or a substantially new or refurbished brake-system make sure to bleed your MC. This was unclear to me before, and when I changed from 21mm to 19mm it gave me a few problems when bleeding my brakes. @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18749 has a great video on this, and it's pretty straight-forward >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOSer774NqM

As for bleeding the brakes, I also referenced another video from @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18749 ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymHHD6uKhfc ) because I purchased the same power-bleeder. I won't go into a whole explanation, because the video is pretty clear, though I will leave some notes that I found useful. I'm sure that I made ALL the mistakes and had the worst-luck while doing this, so check out my list below...

- If you're unfamiliar with this watch Ians video a few times. Good? Now watch it again.
- Before you start, have extra towels and water ready. Have MORE than enough, and stage them around your car. This will be handy if you spill.
- Most important: Make sure your brake-fluid reservoir is solid with no leaks or cracks and same for your lines and such. I had just started bleeding the system the first-time, only to find a 'crack' in the reservoir just above the plated retaining strap. Very annoying to stop what you're doing, get a turkey-baster/syringe, drain the system, install a new reservoir, and start all over. headbang.gif Further, it becomes very messy and stressful, especially with all that brake-fluid around.
- Check. Your. Reservoir. Lines!. This relates to the above point. I found that, in addition to the crack I had lines that were completely deteriorated. Suggest that everyone buy new rubber brake hose to connect the reservoir to the lines and new hose-clamps. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0117SUXLO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- My system had already been bled before with blue brake-fluid. As it still had fluid in the system I found this helpful because when the new, clear, fluid came through I could visually tell that the system had been 'flushed'.
- If you're bleeding your brakes after a restoration or major swap (new calipers / MC), make sure to first bleed the MC, then add more fluid before bleeding your brakes. I made a similar mistake, and when bleeding the brakes let the reservoir run dry and had to start over.
- Some call it an urban myth, but I found it helpful to tap the brakes and brake-lines while bleeding. I think the vibrations help get out any 'stuck' air-pockets.
- I brought the pressure on the power-bleeder up to 7.5 PSI, and had no problem.
- My car has early 'S' brakes. If you have the same or similar 'big brakes' you need to bleed both-sides of the caliper. Order is still the same as bleeding 'stock' brakes, though with a minor adjustment; Right-rear caliper, Left-rear caliper, Right-front inner caliper, Right-front outer caliper, Left-front inner caliper, Left-front outer caliper.

bye1.gif

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Posted by: iankarr Oct 1 2021, 02:26 PM

Glad the videos helped. And tapping the calipers isn't a myth at all. There are lots of places for bubbles to hide. If you're replacing the calipers, do whatever you can to shake them out. Drive back and forth over railroad tracks a few times (once the car has a firm enough pedal to hit the road). There are a few other things I should've highlighted more in the videos

– Brake fluid will ruin your paint. Seriously. And Fast. Maybe in less than 30 seconds. And it's not something that compounds out. Make sure you have a way to rinse off any that gets where it's not supposed to go before you mess with it.

– Per Eric Shea at PMB, freshly rebuilt calipers need a little time to break-in before the pedal becomes as firm as it will get. The new seals pull on the pistons a bit and they need to relax.

I'm making a full brake line and caliper video for my BB build. Coming soon!

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 4 2021, 12:31 PM

QUOTE(iankarr @ Oct 1 2021, 01:26 PM) *

Glad the videos helped. And tapping the calipers isn't a myth at all. There are lots of places for bubbles to hide. If you're replacing the calipers, do whatever you can to shake them out. Drive back and forth over railroad tracks a few times (once the car has a firm enough pedal to hit the road). There are a few other things I should've highlighted more in the videos

– Brake fluid will ruin your paint. Seriously. And Fast. Maybe in less than 30 seconds. And it's not something that compounds out. Make sure you have a way to rinse off any that gets where it's not supposed to go before you mess with it.

– Per Eric Shea at PMB, freshly rebuilt calipers need a little time to break-in before the pedal becomes as firm as it will get. The new seals pull on the pistons a bit and they need to relax.

I'm making a full brake line and caliper video for my BB build. Coming soon!


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=18749 - Thank you Señor Ian, keep them coming! cheer.gif

Work continues - Very happy with how all the final cut and polishing is going! Making sure everything matches, we started putting on the front and rear hoods. Only hiccup I ran into is the Camp914 Hood shocks. It seems like it takes WAY too much force to push the hood-down and, when I moved the mounting point for the hood to the bolt that is 'closer' to the Driver, the geometry of the setup causes the shock to run out of room before the hood is completely flat AND not lift completely. This would made refueling impossible. If I remember correctly, this was a pretty-popular kit, so I think I'm getting something wrong. Any input is appreciated, but for now, I'm going to order the 914Rubber hood-springs as a 'backup' and leave the hood without the shocks so I can align all my gaps, and get this thing on the road!

On another note, I fall in love each time this car gets polished. As popular as it is, 'Signal Orange' is the color these cars are supposed to be. Go ahead.... Try and change my mind! shades.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 8 2021, 12:56 PM

I have a trunk.... it's even got a lid.... and trunk-shocks.... and even a wiring harness and hardware! That is all... carry on please bye1.gif

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Posted by: eric9144 Oct 11 2021, 10:59 AM

piratenanner.gif
Getting close!!

Posted by: ClayPerrine Oct 11 2021, 12:10 PM

Enrique,

You have the the oil breather system plumbed wrong. The oil breather is an integral part of the intake system. If you leave it like this, you are going to have oil leaks.

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The one on the filler neck goes to the fitting on the top of the engine case. The one directly on the tank goes to the intake elbow that is between the air flow meter and the throttle body. That makes the oil system part of the air intake system, lowers emissions and prevents oil leaks.

However, the 964 used a way different oil tank from the 911 or the 914-6. So to make a 3.6 work with the 914-6, you have to add a restrictor in the line from the throttle body elbow and the oil tank. The restrictor is from a 3.2 Carrera motor, Part number 930-107-289-00. If you don't put the restrictor in, you won't be able to check the oil.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/646652-breather-hose-restrictor.html

If you need pictures, let me know.

Clay

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2021, 01:19 PM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 11 2021, 11:10 AM) *

Enrique,

You have the the oil breather system plumbed wrong. The oil breather is an integral part of the intake system. If you leave it like this, you are going to have oil leaks.

IPB Image

The one on the filler neck goes to the fitting on the top of the engine case. The one directly on the tank goes to the intake elbow that is between the air flow meter and the throttle body. That makes the oil system part of the air intake system, lowers emissions and prevents oil leaks.

However, the 964 used a way different oil tank from the 911 or the 914-6. So to make a 3.6 work with the 914-6, you have to add a restrictor in the line from the throttle body elbow and the oil tank. The restrictor is from a 3.2 Carrera motor, Part number 930-107-289-00. If you don't put the restrictor in, you won't be able to check the oil.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/646652-breather-hose-restrictor.html

If you need pictures, let me know.

Clay


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 - Señor Clay, thanks for the heads-up! I was actually thinking to connect the port on the oil-tank to a breather, would that not suffice? I'll check out the link you sent, and will never say 'No' to photos. Much appreciated!

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 11 2021, 03:27 PM

This weekend was measured not in progress, but in photos! Alot of work done, hoods on, and the car 'buffed' out. To avoid rock-chips on the car, we added chip-guard and went over that with three-coats of paint. Very happy with how it all turned out, you cannot even see it if you are over 5-feet away!

As the car sat for so-long I was worried about flex and alignment, especially when it came to door and hood gaps. Fortunately, it seems like my anxiety was mis-placed as all my gaps are even! The one area I'm having a problem with is the passenger-side headlight - it seems the assembly and cover have so much adjustment, it was giving me a headache to get it all-right yesterday and trying to mount the 'eye-brow' pieces that go below the headlight assembly are no picnic either. If anyone has a recommendation on how to easily install the grommets, it would be much appreciated.

For now, I'll leave the readers with some of my favorite photos as the car is getting assembled. bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2021, 08:37 AM

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Posted by: Cairo94507 Oct 12 2021, 10:01 AM

Very nice Enrique. It won't be long before you are behind the wheel for real. beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2021, 11:00 AM

QUOTE(eric9144 @ Oct 11 2021, 09:59 AM) *

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Getting close!!


QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Oct 12 2021, 09:01 AM) *

Very nice Enrique. It won't be long before you are behind the wheel for real. beerchug.gif


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=12876 @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 - Thanks gentleman, hoping to hold a candle next to your cars! I was anticipating I would make WCR, but I just wasn't able to put in those extra-couple of weekends to finish in time. Oh well, next year!

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2021, 11:55 AM

Hey everyone! Looking for some feedback or direction regarding adjusting the position of the headlight assembly and painted 'cover' that goes on top. As it sits currently, the Drivers side is perfect with all of the gaps (Hood, Headlight cover, Fender) lining up, and a good amount of clearance between the hood and head-light cover (both on the 'top' line of the cover and the side facing the hood. However, I'm having trouble on the passenger-side and am looking for a method that other members might use, besides those listed in the manual.

To me, it seems like there is SO much adjustment I just can't get it right and 'lined-up', and I feel that the headlight cover is too-close to the hood, both on the side and the top. Further, it seems like the 'gap' between the fender and headlight cover is larger than the Drivers side. Finally, complicating the whole-matter are the 'eye-brows' - should I put these on first and then adjust based on those lines? If so, it makes adjusting the headlights harder. Thanks in advance to anyone reading this who can help-out. bye1.gif

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Posted by: Root_Werks Oct 12 2021, 12:34 PM

That's looking like a 914 again, nice!

Headlight adjustments are a PITA. Most 914's I can get gaps pretty even, but some there seems to be nothing you can do and some gaps are just off a bit.

Takes time, opening and closing the hood a hundred times, tiny adjustments repeat...

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 12 2021, 07:18 PM

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Oct 12 2021, 11:34 AM) *

That's looking like a 914 again, nice!

Headlight adjustments are a PITA. Most 914's I can get gaps pretty even, but some there seems to be nothing you can do and some gaps are just off a bit.

Takes time, opening and closing the hood a hundred times, tiny adjustments repeat...


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=2105 - Thanks for the heads-up, I guess I'll just continue on. Frustrating, especially since the Driver-side headlight was perfect on the first-try. headbang.gif

Posted by: bahnzai Oct 13 2021, 07:31 AM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 11 2021, 02:10 PM) *

Enrique,

You have the the oil breather system plumbed wrong. The oil breather is an integral part of the intake system. If you leave it like this, you are going to have oil leaks.

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The one on the filler neck goes to the fitting on the top of the engine case. The one directly on the tank goes to the intake elbow that is between the air flow meter and the throttle body. That makes the oil system part of the air intake system, lowers emissions and prevents oil leaks.

However, the 964 used a way different oil tank from the 911 or the 914-6. So to make a 3.6 work with the 914-6, you have to add a restrictor in the line from the throttle body elbow and the oil tank. The restrictor is from a 3.2 Carrera motor, Part number 930-107-289-00. If you don't put the restrictor in, you won't be able to check the oil.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/646652-breather-hose-restrictor.html

If you need pictures, let me know.

Clay


Clay, Thanks for the heads up on this...I had never seen that info, especially the restriction. I have my 3.6 plumbed up as you noted, but backwards on which hose was on the intake vs. the crankcase. It was a 993 vs. 964, not sure if that matters...

Enrique, thanks for all the incredible details in your thread (sorry step in the middle of it, maybe it will help another 3.6 conversion do the road?)

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 15 2021, 04:43 PM

This post is ALL about locks and hardware. For years, I've been looking forward to posting assembly photos (assembly-porn). While I might be nerd-ing out a bit, I'm happy the time has come for my car to shine! First-off, locks. For those of you that are having problems with your keys, locks, ignition, etc. - look no-further than @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=666 . Curt does excellent work, flawless really. I received these a little while back, and finally have the chance to install everything. Very satisfied with the work as all the parts have been retreated, rebuilt, and assembled to my new matching key-set smilie_pokal.gif

Further, to compliment my 'shiny-new' locks I purchased 'shiny-new' hardware from @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1319 . Loving the look of the re-plated and finished pieces, from the trunk-latches, to my tow-hook, and everything in-between. w00t.gif

bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 17 2021, 10:36 AM

Small but significant progress early-on this weekend, I spent the majority of Friday night adjusting the ‘gaps’ on the headlights and eye-brows. I’ve come to realize there’s really no ‘trick’ to this, other than making sure the ‘eye-brows’ are secure and aligned first, then making very-small adjustments to the headlight mechanism and hood. With that done, we can finally finish the ‘cut and buff’ in this area, and place the rest of the hardware, covers, and turn-signal lenses.

One thing I did different: I replaced the rubber-grommets holding on the eye-brows with standard M6 bolts; Much easier to install, align, and keep them in place. Originally, from my research, the factory used the rubber-solution to avoid injury, as when One is adjusting the headlight alignment and position, it’s very common that the motor will cycle and ‘Bite’ Ones hand. If this where to happen, the rubber pieces would ‘give way’ and the hand would be unharmed. I’ll wager that the factory anticipated this with new or inexperienced owners. Knowing my way around these cars, I disconnect the battery when doing this type of work and assume the risk. The result? A slightly easier process, and no-risk of loosing these pieces on the highway or after bumps (it happens, believe me). bye1.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 18 2021, 10:56 AM

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=6509
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143

Hi Guys, carved out time on the weekend to mock-up (and share for anyone with a similar conversion) the oil/intake system. Granted, I'll clean this up and sort correctly, but wanted to share here and 'check' with Clay. Is this the right-setup?

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Posted by: ClayPerrine Oct 18 2021, 01:22 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Oct 18 2021, 11:56 AM) *

@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=6509
@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143

Hi Guys, carved out time on the weekend to mock-up (and share for anyone with a similar conversion) the oil/intake system. Granted, I'll clean this up and sort correctly, but wanted to share here and 'check' with Clay. Is this the right-setup?

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That's exactly the right plumbing.
I left the factory elbow attached to the throttlle body, and put the aftermarket elbow out next to the air flow meter, but otherwise it is identical. I didn't have to add plumbing to the idle air motor. I suspect it can affect the idle response.

Clay

Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 18 2021, 03:05 PM

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 18 2021, 12:22 PM) *


That's exactly the right plumbing.
I left the factory elbow attached to the throttlle body, and put the aftermarket elbow out next to the air flow meter, but otherwise it is identical. I didn't have to add plumbing to the idle air motor. I suspect it can affect the idle response.

Clay


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=1143 - Gracias Señor Clay, your feedback is always invaluable!

Attaching photos from Clays progress thread (as well as mine) to show the engine-bay and connect for those following along. I think it may be helpful, it sure is to me. While his intake is 'flipped', we are referencing the hose connections.

My next step is connecting the lines from the charcoal canister located above the fuel-tank. While not 'vital', I do think it will help the engine run more similar to its original design. My anticipated setup is as follows: Connect 1-line to the intake manifold elbow, and the other-line to the a port on the passenger-side plastic intake structure. If I'm correct, the port on the plastic manifold should 'blow' air from the engine into the charcoal canister, and the line connected to the rubber-intake elbow should 'suck' vapor / air / etc into the engine. bye1.gif


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Posted by: RiqueMar Oct 25 2021, 03:17 PM

Things are a bit 'slow-go' right now. Ever since moving the car out to my parents house to get the final body-work addressed, I've lost the 'rhythm' I had of working 1-2 hours every day. To try to get back into a significant stride I figured I would start tackling interior items. So, this Saturday was all about carpet as the car continues to get buffed out... Under the supervision of my dog Apollo, of course.

For those with similar projects, see the the 914Rubber website. While I originally wanted to go with the '701 Early Charcoal German Loop' because I didn't like the previous black-kit I installed - this wasn't available, so I settled for the 'Domestic Jet-Black'. At $180 it is hard to beat. Though there are a few odd-things about the kit that I need to research (the passenger side seatbelt-hole, no gut for the e-brake 'stop', etc) I'm generally satisfied with the kit. After having it installed, I definitely like the pattern alot more than the previous black.

Pro-Tip: Installation is pretty easy and, as usual, it's all about the prep-work. For those doing a similar replacement, make sure to use plenty of plastic as you grind away at the old-carpet and adhesive... The debris will get everywhere from inside your doors to underneath your dash. A $15 investment in plastic and masking will save you a world of trouble. Also, using masking tape, layout the carpet and give yourself some registration marks to make everything easy to line-up once the adhesive is applied. This is a good time to make sure all your trim and interior components 'fit'; Speaker-pods, Door-trim, etc. Also, this will help you understand the 'sequence' of applying the pieces - For me, it was Passenger-side long, then Driver-side wheel-well, Driver-side Long, Center console, and Passenger-side foot area.

I started off on the top of the entry of the passenger-side, applying adhesive (about 3-coats) to both the carpet and the car and then massaged that piece on. Once set (5-min or so) I took the remainder of the carpet and 'flipped' it up to spray the vertical surface and chassis and massaged that in-place. I stayed in that area for about 10-min, just rubbing down the carpet. Weird thing I noticed here was that the hole on the carpet-piece didn't match up with my 1970' chassis - maybe the model-years are different.

With the passenger-side longs complete, I moved the the Driver-side wheel-well. Perhaps the most complicated piece, theres really only one-way to register it. On the left-side of the piece, if you're using he 914-rubber carpet kit, you will find a 'slit' that can be placed over the bracket that holds the speaker. From there, I just lined up my registration marks. Make sure to remove and wrap your wiring harness, so you don't get any glue on it.

As the Driver-side long 'lays' over the wheel-well, that's next. This was one of the more difficult portions of the project, because you have the small 'indent' next to the handle for the e-brake, as well as the 'posts' that stick-out for the e-brake. Oddly, my carpet piece was marked, but there was no-hole. Take your time with this piece and line everything up, it will be the most difficult part of the job, and should take you the most amount of time.

The center-console area is pretty easy, so long as you remember that this piece isn't exactly 'permanent'. You should consider that you'll need to access the center-console from time-to-time to check the wiring or make shifter adjustments, so it's really your choice whether yo use adhesive or not. In my case, I'm running two-additional gauges, so I'll have to 'slice' that piece in the middle to pass through all my new wiring - I don't think I'll be using adhesive.

Finally, the passenger-side foot area. While my car is a 70' and also has oil-lines in this area, I took a footrest from a 75' and placed it at the bulkhead. The top-portion has adhesive, but only 'lays' on the footrest. The bottom of the piece will be covered by the passenger-side mat.

One last note - Do not cut the excess of the carpet. The kit is meant to be long and 'lay' on the floor, so that when you put the floor-mats and seats in, it looks seamless. Also, because we're on the subject of carpeting, including a shot of my snazzy-new trunk carpeting from 914 rubber... I wonder if I can get the same-pattern as the interior, paging @http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3348 idea.gif

Edit : Don't know why most of my pictures displayed upside down... Maybe a thoughtful moderator can help me out... pray.gif

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Posted by: Mikey914 Oct 26 2021, 02:11 AM

Yes we can. You are lucky. The German is getting harder to get so we can match the domestic up for you easily. PM me your number I'll call you and work out details.
Mark

Posted by: Cairo94507 Oct 26 2021, 07:23 AM

Nice job Enrique. It really is coming together nicely. beerchug.gif

Posted by: autopro Oct 26 2021, 09:13 AM

Another great job and tutorial, thanks!

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 8 2021, 05:11 PM

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Oct 26 2021, 12:11 AM) *

Yes we can. You are lucky. The German is getting harder to get so we can match the domestic up for you easily. PM me your number I'll call you and work out details.
Mark



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=3348 - I've been away on a trip and am just getting back to my thread. Thanks and will do!

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 8 2021, 06:28 PM

A bit of a 'zoom' in on the carpet-job...

Following along on this thread, you might remember that I ran my oil-lines along the passenger-side of longs and then created a bulkhead mount that briefly brings them into the cabin before going into the front-trunk to connect to the cooler. Main reason for this being that I didn't like the oil-line setup on the black-car, and that my foot would often rest on the lines while driving (awkward). Using this method, I could cover the lines with a 'late' footrest and not have to deal with the heat or appearance of the lines.

Starting off, I grabbed a footrest from a 75' car that was in rough shape and after making a few 'marker' notes, began grinding away. While its really dusty, the piece is pretty easy to cut, and you only run the risk of cutting too-much too-quick. After a few trips back and fourth, I eventually had the piece with the right-fit, and could 'sand it' so it didn't look too hacked-up. Once it was ready to be installed, most of the glue went on the chassis 'above' the footrest piece, with only a little bit 'tacking' onto the rest in case I need to take it out. I think the factory did the same, in order to access the cutout that you can see in some of the pictures. From there, it's just more massaging to get the carpet in-place and then laying it all out.

This piece marks the last in the set so after, I was also able to start installing the speakers, rubber door-lining and trim that separate the door-step to the interior. This is easy enough, though it might take some 'probing' to see where the holes line up. Pro-tip: The holes for the trim will line-up with the holes for the door-step, maybe 3/4' to 1" from the door-seam. Looking back on this portion of the project, I now wonder how I can best use that 'access panel' in the foot-rest.... Maybe a small-form subwoofer or access for electronics... idea.gif

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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 8 2021, 06:30 PM

Edit: Forgot to mention on my previous post, but.... What is this last-carpet piece for? The only area I can think-off is the space just-above the pedals or between the seatbelt-latches between the Driver and passenger?

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Posted by: Van914 Nov 9 2021, 06:32 AM

Behind the seats

Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2021, 12:18 PM

QUOTE(Van914 @ Nov 9 2021, 04:32 AM) *

Behind the seats


@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=90 - Can you talk about this more? I only have 1-piece

Posted by: mepstein Nov 9 2021, 12:31 PM

Enrique, I think it’s the carpet on the front of the pedal box, under the dash. The carpet pieces behind the seats are shaped, not rectangular.


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Posted by: RiqueMar Nov 9 2021, 01:08 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 9 2021, 10:31 AM) *

Enrique, I think it’s the carpet on the front of the pedal box, under the dash. The carpet pieces behind the seats are shaped, not rectangular.



Hey Mark - Yeah, thats what I was thinking, and I think I even saw the same photo you shared. I'll be back with the car tonight and try to figure it out beerchug.gif

Posted by: mepstein Nov 9 2021, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Nov 9 2021, 02:08 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Nov 9 2021, 10:31 AM) *

Enrique, I think it’s the carpet on the front of the pedal box, under the dash. The carpet pieces behind the seats are shaped, not rectangular.



Hey Mark - Yeah, thats what I was thinking, and I think I even saw the same photo you shared. I'll be back with the car tonight and try to figure it out beerchug.gif

I think it gets glued to the bulkhead and is mostly cosmetic.

Posted by: Mikey914 Nov 11 2021, 07:30 AM

You are correct the small piece goes above tge drivets pedals.
On the passenger carpet, It lays flat on the floor and the upper foot rest piece goes over it so you don't have excess carpet going up it.

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 6 2022, 12:15 PM

Hello 914World! Long time no-post, however I'm still here and 'chipping' away. Had a bit of a problem in the Fall with 'rough running' on my engine that I believe has been isolated to the ECU. While that one is in for repair, modification and upgrade - I purchased a 'rebuilt' and certified unit from Steve Wong https://www.911chips.com and 'voilà!' everything works again, with the only change being that I moved pin 18 (constant power) to a fused source.

While I'm able to run the engine consistently with starter fluid, this leads me to believe I need to give the fuel system another look. Next order of business is to remove and send in the injectors for cleaning / servicing as well as the fuel-rails just to be safe, because I had them re-plated. Also, going to use this opportunity to install a fuel-pressure gauge on the fuel rail and (maybe) replace the fuel pump. More details later, but for now, sharing my 'finished' wiring diagram. bye1.gif

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Posted by: Cairo94507 Apr 7 2022, 06:45 AM

Hello Enrique - Nice to see you back and still making progress. Is WCR in your plans? beerchug.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 7 2022, 05:09 PM

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Apr 7 2022, 05:45 AM) *

Hello Enrique - Nice to see you back and still making progress. Is WCR in your plans? beerchug.gif



@http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showuser=9712 - I've been at it, it's just been a bit 'slow' recently - our business has really picked up. No complaints here though, it's better than the alternative! I think WCR is in July - I don't think I can have my car up there that quickly, but I'll try and tag along and find an empty seat or cool car to bring. bye1.gif

Posted by: RiqueMar Apr 7 2022, 06:04 PM

I mentioned previously that the car was running rough. I suspect it's the injectors. As a precaution I'm also going to take this opportunity check or replace the following. I don't foresee this as a big problem, because I've had the car running in this configuration for 10-20 minutes at a time, but we'll see....

- Servicing the injectors: As much as I would like to get new ones, at $250 each, I just can't see it happening.
- New Fuel Pump: This unit sat for a while and I remember there was something 'finicky' about it before reinstalling it. Further, it's been with the car for atleast as long as I can remember and sat 'dry' for the longest time. Also, when I turn the ignition ON and the system is on, it seems a bit loud. Something here doesn't seem right.
- Check the fuel lines: These are new, but I'm going to check underneath the tank, in the tunnel and out the rear firewall for any 'kinks'.
- Lower the fuel filter: I made the mistake of mounting the fuel-filter above the fuel pump in the front trunk, and a bit too high. While it's easy to get to, clean and replace, it's too high and I need to lower lower it to about the same level as the fuel pump.
- Install a pressure Gauge on the passenger-side fuel rail: I'm sure I can do this, I'm just not sure how to yet.

Getting ready for each of these, I spent last night removing the injectors and wanted to be careful because I've already detailed the engine bay. Pretty straight forward, just started at the Passenger-side fuel rail and disconnected the supply line. It had a bit of fuel, but nothing that a water-bottle and a rag can't handle. From there, just disconnected each hose tot eh pressure regulator and engine fuel system and repeated the same on the Driver-side. For those that are doing this for the first time, give yourself about 1.5-2hrs, have a few rags and take your time. It gets a bit cramped in the 914 engine bay, but it's not too difficult with light, a Gatorade/Bottle handy and the tools on-hand (16, 17, 18, 19mm wrench). bye1.gif

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Posted by: eric9144 Nov 28 2022, 09:53 AM

poke.gif slap.gif

Posted by: flat4guy Apr 25 2023, 07:39 PM

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Great looking build - hope to see your car sometime.

Posted by: RiqueMar Dec 26 2023, 03:14 PM

Hi Guys!

Still here and with the project! Our business just really picked up last-year and, as well, went through a divorce so this was put on the back-burner. I swear, I think I was only 'home' for about a total of 4-months in 2022-2023. In any-case, working on my first-property and I'd like to see this done sometime in 2024! Last-week, I began calling around to different shops to 'push this across' the finish line - very excited to find the 'right' place!

Thought I'de check in, hope everyone is doing well! bye1.gif

Posted by: mepstein Dec 26 2023, 08:27 PM

Enrique - If I can help with anything, just let me know. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Cairo94507 Feb 25 2024, 09:57 AM

Enrique - Sorry to hear about the divorce- no fun. I really hope you are doing well, moving on and maybe that you found the shop to complete your car. I know it likely rubs you the wrong way to have someone else work on your car, but at some point, time is worth more than money. Hope to see you driving that beauty very soon. beerchug.gif
Cheers,
Michael

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