This weekend I am doing a replacement of the push rod tube seals, my first valve adjustment, a repair of the pulled exhaust stud on the driver side, and a permanent plugging of the air injection holes with a couple bolts and a little JB weld.
This morning I put the teener up on some ramps and crawled under her to remove the exhaust from the heads so that I could re-tap the one loose stud and replace the gaskets with a set I got from the good Dr. in Atlanta. When I got under there, I saw two allen bolts in place of the nuts and studs I was expecting. And when I unscrewed them from the head I pulled out the timecerts that they were inserted with. plus, there was no copper gasket. Here is what I have now.
I will now have to cut the bolts in order to get them off of the exhaust, and as you can see in the one pic, they had to split the sides of the exhaust just to fit the bigger bolts. I was able to tap the head with a M12X1.5 tap, so I believe I will be able to put some threaded inserts in there along with some new studs, and the one stud I was doing this whole procedure for in the first place looks like it will be able to be re-tapped for the 8/9 studs I have on hand, but I might have to go to a 8/10.
At least it is a beautiful sunny day here in SW FL.
Any suggestions as to things I might consider as I get ready to put this bit of Porsche happiness back together?
Jim
I'd consider a step down stud. A VW shop should have them as this is a common problem. A stud that is 10mm on one side and 8mm on the other. Tap the case for the 10mm and thread it in. No inserts needed. If that doesn't work, you're looking at the machine shop to fix them.
Don't forget new exhaust gaskets. The copper ones. I annealed mine prior to install. YMMV. I also used the correct copper nuts as well.
Good luck and don't get stuck in a gumption trap.
Very Very Important!!! is to not only use the copper gaskets, but the copper Nuts too. the problem with steel nuts or bolts is that they will expand too much and pull right out of the head like the allens you're taking out.
So regardless of what studs you use, make sure you can get the copper nuts....
B
8/9 studs are too small. Time to let my fingers do the walking for the 8/10 studs.
Try george at AA, they have some of the repair studs in stock.
The Cap'n is right, unfortunately about the m12's. Once you tap that boss for a m12 there just isn't much meat left. That said, if you have been living right, you might just get lucky!
Welding new ex bosses in is not a big deal. However, pulling the heads is! And of course if the stud bosses to be welded are the ones closest to the ex valve seats (with the heads on the engine it would be the rows that are closest to the crank) those seats will have to come out and new ones installed.
As you can see the can of worms is big and wiggly! Be very careful down there!
The PO had some 12M timeserts (outside diameter) in there and they unscrewed from the head when I removed the bolts that you see in the pictures. The POs fix worked, not pretty, but it worked. It was the other half of the head that had the pulled stud. I just cleaned up the threads with a tap and went looking for options on how to reinstall the exhaust. I was hoping to find a part number for the timsert kit I would need, or some other imaginative solution to the problem. Right now I am not interested in taking the time or money to get the heads welded and re-tapped. I am trying to save up for a full rebuild at which time the heads will either be totally rebuilt or replaced. So, the less money I have to spend now to keep her on the road is the route I am looking into. I know it is not optimal, but I don't have the funds to be optimal at this time.
Look carefully. There's more than a good chance they unscrewed (and took some aluminum with them) because the bosses are cracked. I realize you want to save money, and that's understandable, but you're ignoring reality and the advice of people who KNOW, not some blowhards who parrot what they've read in some "enthusiast" magazine or on the web. I've given you the bad news, and I'm done here. The Cap'n
Find the exhaust leak, bolt everything up, take it for a ride, get it hot and then let it idle. Dip your hand in water and wave it over the suspect leak and feel for the pulse.
Then take it apart and take the Krusty one's advice.
BTW, I would also consider looking at the flanges to see if they are flat ad true, also look up in there to see if there isn't an extra gasket or something up there or anything else that the previous owner did that was fucking stupid.
I find that the PO is the only one is stupider that the current owner. By a slim margin. Tuff luv.
Enjoy your holiday.
Just another note about "copper locknuts" after seeing this topic a ton of times over the past few years...
What you get from your local VW shop might look like copper, they might try to sell you "lock nuts" which come in various styles including the "pinched" (slightly ovaled) ones... All of these are pretty likely to lock to your studs tight enough that you better be damn careful taking them off or you'll break a stud.
I've also noted that whenever Jake chimes in on this topic, he'll tell you he avoids copper-anything nuts in favor of double-nutting.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)