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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Gear shift adjustment
Posted by: Kent Dec 20 2008, 11:39 PM
Any helpfull hint on how th get the left /right adjustmet correct on the interior gear shift adjustment? I hve figured out forward and back.
Posted by: Racer Chris Dec 21 2008, 12:06 AM
With the trans in neutral, attach a bungee from the shift lever to the passenger side door handle while the adjustment bolt is loose. Rotate the splined shaft to the right as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
Posted by: Joe Ricard Dec 24 2008, 09:02 PM
Damn I have been screwing around with "one spline at a time" method for all these years.
Now you tell us a secret.
Posted by: jim_hoyland Feb 1 2014, 09:42 PM
With the trans in neutral, attach a bungee from the shift lever to the passenger side door handle while the adjustment bolt is loose. Rotate the splined shaft to the right as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
Would this work for a Rennshifter as we'll ?
Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 2 2014, 08:33 AM
With the trans in neutral, attach a bungee from the shift lever to the passenger side door handle while the adjustment bolt is loose. Rotate the splined shaft to the right as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
Would this work for a Rennshifter as we'll ?
In concept, yes.
However, the centering springs probably make it difficult.
Posted by: cpavlenko Mar 11 2014, 10:06 PM
that is so simple, I'll have to remember this trick. I've always heard this was a nightmare to do it correctly. Thanks 914 world...
Posted by: cpavlenko Mar 11 2014, 10:06 PM
that is so simple, I'll have to remember this trick. I've always heard this was a nightmare to do it correctly. Thanks 914 world...
Posted by: Red72 May 18 2015, 05:57 PM
A bit of a ressurection here, but I'm having some 'challenges' with aligning my shifter after a bushing change (tail shifter). Presumably this method is common to tail and side shifters... But my question is if the splined shaft referenced is the forward shaft, connected to the shifter, or the rear shaft to the trans... Logic tells me it's the latter.
Thanks.
Posted by: tomrev May 18 2015, 06:44 PM
A bit of a ressurection here, but I'm having some 'challenges' with aligning my shifter after a bathing change (tail shifter). Presumably this method is common to tail and side shifters... But my question is if the splined shaft referenced is the forward shaft, connected to the shifter, or the rear shaft to the trans... Logic tells me it's the latter.
Thanks.
It's the splined end, at the shifter lever end,. Does take a bit of work to find the sweet spot.
Posted by: Red72 May 21 2015, 12:01 PM
A bit of a ressurection here, but I'm having some 'challenges' with aligning my shifter after a bathing change (tail shifter). Presumably this method is common to tail and side shifters... But my question is if the splined shaft referenced is the forward shaft, connected to the shifter, or the rear shaft to the trans... Logic tells me it's the latter.
Thanks.
It's the splined end, at the shifter lever end,. Does take a bit of work to find the sweet spot.
Excellent, thanks! That will hopefully be my Sunday project.
Posted by: stugray May 21 2015, 12:21 PM
Another trick I have learned (even if using Racer Chris's method):
Paint some white out across the splines at the adjustment point and then mark both sides of the interface with a mechanical pencil or other accurate marking tool - BEFORE you adjust it.
Probably 90% of us will adjust it the wrong way the first 5 times and you want to be able to at least put it back where it was.
Posted by: Red72 May 24 2015, 04:58 PM
So I'm now back to a point where I have first through 4th pretty cleanly...but I can't get to 5th. Based on the cutout in the plate within the shifter housing, am I correct to say that 5th is actually slightly further over than 4th? If that's the case I suspect I just need to get a LITTLE more travel to the right and I'll be set.
Posted by: Dr Evil May 25 2015, 09:05 PM
Nope. The 4-5, 2-3 throws on a properly adjusted box are equidistant. If you are not getting 5 that is odd. It should be the same amount back as 3 and 1.
Posted by: Hine62 Jun 8 2015, 01:11 PM
Where is the adjustment screw? I think R & 1st are way too close to the drivers seat. I'm thinking this will fix it.
hine62
Posted by: stugray Jun 8 2015, 05:06 PM
Where is the adjustment screw? I think R & 1st are way too close to the drivers seat. I'm thinking this will fix it.
hine62
On a side shift, the adjustment is made directly behind the shifter.
On a tail shift, it is through the access hole right in front of the firewall bushing.
You have to loosen the bolt (IIRC 13mm) and rotate the shaft one spline at a time.
Posted by: rgalla9146 Jun 8 2015, 06:37 PM
Mark both pieces with a fine tip magic marker
put two or three lines across the splines to reference for depth and a single line in one spline and onto the adjoining piece for rotation
Posted by: db9146 Jun 8 2015, 08:42 PM
So mine is a tailshifter and I just finished replacing all of the bushings in the shifter and the linkage. That took out a lot of slop.
I used this method above to adjust the shifter afterwards and it did improve getting it into first but then noticed that it made it easier to nick reverse when shifting into second, hence my question....
If R and 1st are in the same plane and I have to pull the shifter over to the left against the spring-loaded plate underneath to get 1st, then shouldn't the shift lever move far enough to the right as I shift from 1st to 2nd to be out of the same R-1st plane so that I don't nick reverse? When shifting into 2nd I have released all "left ward" pressure against the spring.
What am I missing? Anything else I can adjust?
Posted by: Dave_Darling Jun 8 2015, 08:58 PM
Sounds like you may need to adjust the lever over to the right just a touch more. Or maybe to the left a touch more? But there are many reasons that we tell people to momentarily pause in between gears when shifting a 914; allowing the lever to fall into the correct plane is only one of them.
--DD
Posted by: RobW Jun 9 2015, 07:43 AM
I use the put it wrong method, and then estimating how much you need to correct it, pull it out, curse, scream, and rip up your hands, and then finally get it in. Results may vary.
For Rennshift, multiply the frustration times 4.
Posted by: Racer Chris Jun 9 2015, 08:48 AM
I use the put it wrong method, and then estimating how much you need to correct it, pull it out, curse, scream, and rip up your hands, and then finally get it in. Results may vary.
For Rennshift, multiply the frustration times 4.
Problem solved.
Replace this:
with this:
And make accurate adjustments without frustration in a minute.
Posted by: Dr Evil Jun 9 2015, 07:42 PM
Put in 2nd. Disconnect shifter at rod (side shift). Place shifter against spring plate and put shifter where you want 2nd. Slide rod back into shifter and tighten bolt. Basic concept.
Posted by: jdahl Dec 3 2016, 10:47 AM
Need some help here, I've tried Dr. Evil and Racer Chris' methods. I've marked the shift rod and rotated spline by spline. I can get R-3 or 2-5, but not R-5. Any help would be appreciated.
Posted by: SKL1 Dec 3 2016, 12:30 PM
Get Chris' new front adjuster... just a satisfied customer...
Posted by: Keith914 Dec 3 2016, 02:03 PM
Check that nothing is preventing full left to right shifter action in the tunnel. In my case I had to secure the clutch cable tube to the driver side of the tunnel with a steel bracket and bolt just ahead of the shifter lever mechanism.
Posted by: porschetub Dec 3 2016, 02:54 PM
I continue to struggle with mine and think I'am 80% there,my next move is to replace the coupler with a uni-joint I have found,I note this is what Tangerine and PMS do,makes sense when you see that the rear rod must be in a straight line to the gearbox (however offset) yet the front rod is angled towards the shifter from the bulkhead forward,that where I see the need to have movement 2 ways as opposed to the stock one way coupler.
I recently cut my engine carrier mount by 12mm and moved the engine forward,this improved the shifting ,engine position and I no longer had body contact through my are cleaner tops.
First test drive the car was popping out of 1st and 3rd car,another visit to the hoist and I noticed the coupler was hitting my Tangerine bulkhead bush before the gears were fully engaged,as per Chris's instruction sheet I ground a small piece off the coupler @ the botton,that sorted it.
My PO supplied rear shift rod is rubbish,I patched it up but will rebuild it fully when I adapt the uni-joint.
Posted by: Racer Chris Dec 3 2016, 03:01 PM
... and rotated spline by spline.
...
The splines are only on the rod. There is no corresponding spline pattern inside the hole. Otherwise the fine adjustments necessary would be impossible.
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