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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 914/356 rotisserie
Posted by: chivana Mar 16 2009, 11:40 AM
new to this hobby but planning a restoration to my 914 to hone my skills before tackling the 356 A.I would like to build a structually sound rotisserie that would adapt to both cars.Any prints incl. material lists available?Thanks,Kirt
Posted by: Richard Casto Mar 16 2009, 11:51 AM
Here is my design. It's pretty simple to construct and has worked well for me. You could use as is for the 914 and then build custom mounts for the 356 (probably the easiest way to go).
http://www.roadglue.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_build_an_automotive_rotisserie_for_a_Porsche_914
Posted by: PanelBilly Mar 16 2009, 02:56 PM
My's just about the same except I used real long bolts to connect it to the front and back on the car. That way the bar that the car hangs from is out of the way and I can work and paint those areas.
Posted by: Richard Casto Mar 16 2009, 03:21 PM
My's just about the same except I used real long bolts to connect it to the front and back on the car. That way the bar that the car hangs from is out of the way and I can work and paint those areas.
Out of curiosity, how long is your standoff/bolts? The standoff on mine is 4" and that was intended to allow for me to work/paint in those area, but I haven't had to do much of that (just yet). Also, a minimum it needs to extend far enough away to not interfear with the rear tow tower attachment that sticks out pretty far.
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Mar 16 2009, 04:31 PM
new to this hobby but planning a restoration to my 914 to hone my skills before tackling the 356 A.I would like to build a structually sound rotisserie that would adapt to both cars.Any prints incl. material lists available?Thanks,Kirt
easy as pie, no real blue prints needed.
Get 2 700 pound engine stands from Harbor Freight (usually can be had for ~$39 each)
Take some measurements on your car, you will be mounting to your bumper pick ups.
Make sure all your steel is 1/8 inch thick walled.
get some beefy rollers from Home Depot.
Any sttel yard in your area will have everyhting that you need. You will need mostly 2x2 inch square tube steel. You will need to cut the upright and section in a foot of metal, and I forget what that deminsion is. Just measure it, and order it from your local steel yard.
Your feet at the bottom you want at 4 feet apart.
The spreader at the bottom (between the engine stands) is important.
Should look about like this when you are done:
All told, you will spend about $300 in stock. When you are done you will be able to sell it for $500-$600. Easy.
Measure twice, order cut and weld. Sell it when you are done for a profit.
Oh, Auto Atlanta has free plans on their site.
Zach
Posted by: r_towle Mar 16 2009, 05:04 PM
The setup that Zach has is the basic version.
For the 356 you will need to build a two bar frame that goes under the car, all the way from front to back, a big rectangle.
From that frame you make uprights to bolt onto the suspension points.
Rich
Posted by: PanelBilly Mar 16 2009, 06:00 PM
My's just about the same except I used real long bolts to connect it to the front and back on the car. That way the bar that the car hangs from is out of the way and I can work and paint those areas.
Out of curiosity, how long is your standoff/bolts? The standoff on mine is 4" and that was intended to allow for me to work/paint in those area, but I haven't had to do much of that (just yet). Also, a minimum it needs to extend far enough away to not interfear with the rear tow tower attachment that sticks out pretty far.
I used some carrage bolts that were about 6" long. That left 3"4" clearance to work around. It wasn't that I needed to do any rust repair there or anything, but I wanted the media blaster to be able to access the front and back and I wanted to be able to paint everything
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Mar 16 2009, 06:11 PM
The setup that Zach has is the basic version.
For the 356 you will need to build a two bar frame that goes under the car, all the way from front to back, a big rectangle.
From that frame you make uprights to bolt onto the suspension points.
Rich
Most 356 people just attach the rotisserie to the bumper mounting points, just like you do on a 914. The Cap'n, BTDT
Posted by: FourBlades Mar 16 2009, 07:56 PM
Got scrap wood?
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=79106&view=findpost&p=1020028
Posted by: chivana Apr 27 2009, 10:12 AM
Good knowledge-Thanks all
Posted by: Wilhelm Apr 27 2009, 10:22 AM
I used junk pipe I found and these large wheels I've had for a while. The wheels are big enuf to roll out into the field to sandblast and large enuf to be able to roll up a 1 foot ramp into the barn by hand. Without a doubt, this is one of the best tools for saving your back, neck, and eyes. It makes prep and welding 10 times easier and has easily paid off the fabrication time it took which was about 3 hours.
Posted by: chivana Apr 29 2009, 05:45 AM
I used junk pipe I found and these large wheels I've had for a while. The wheels are big enuf to roll out into the field to sandblast and large enuf to be able to roll up a 1 foot ramp into the barn by hand.
The knowledgeable&helpful folks on the site make the Porsche hobby a pleasure to belong.Thanks to all for their great information.Kirt
Posted by: nsr-jamie Apr 29 2009, 07:35 AM
Hey guys, check out this rotisserie that was at my friends paint shop. They are working on my 914 now as I am typing this. Check it out as they roll the 356 around. I don't remember seeing this kind of rotisserie before. Here is the link http://www.garagegoodweather.com/daily-blog/421
Posted by: charliew Apr 29 2009, 08:30 AM
Not very user friendly. It requires a overhead winch. I wouldn't call that a rotesserie and that cage cost three times as much as a rotesserie to build. Also it looks like you might need to cut it apart to get the car out. The front suspension was never designed to support the car at a 45 in my opinion. I think that cage holding a topless car will surely cause twist in the tub. The ladder support on a topless car will always be the best to make sure there is no change in the top or door measurements from start to finish.
I like Wilhelm's off-road version for getting the mess outside whether blasting, washing, blowing the sand out or whatever. In my case my shop approach is 25x80 but it slopes so it's not optimum for rolling things around. It's kinda tricky working on it on a creeper even. It is good for recovering blast sand and recycling it. Kinda gives me a break from the blasting when I sweep it up and pour it back in through a screen funnel.
Posted by: Larouex Apr 29 2009, 09:44 AM
I ended up buying a AutoTwirler which is expensive, but I have really appreciated the ability to set the height with the hydraulic jacks and the general heavy duty nature of the unit.
http://larryj.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!ED575A41D548081C!2612.entry
Here is the link to the AutoTwirler
http://www.autotwirler.com/
Posted by: Richard Casto Apr 29 2009, 02:24 PM
Hey guys, check out this rotisserie that was at my friends paint shop. They are working on my 914 now as I am typing this. Check it out as they roll the 356 around. I don't remember seeing this kind of rotisserie before. Here is the link http://www.garagegoodweather.com/daily-blog/421
Interesting design. But I have to say they are doing it the hard way. I am not sure what the philosophy is on that particular design. It take just seconds to do that on a regular rotisserie vs. multiple people minutes of time and a hoist.
Posted by: charliew Apr 29 2009, 03:34 PM
I built my rot. it's similiar in design to the twirler but winches instead of rams. I built a gantry crane (a frame) and had 3.5 and 4 inch 3/16 wall tubing left over. I decided to use 2 inch pipe for the long part. I originally built mine to do scout bodies and pickup cabs and they are heavier.
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