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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ persistant oil leak-75'

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 29 2004, 09:43 AM

the car had what i thought was bad oil cooler seals. when i did the swap to ss he's and related parts i noticed there was a FRAM oil filter, it was on super tight. after removing there was no appearent oil on the area below the cooler and the cooler itself was dry. i put on a Mahle and fired it up. big time leak. tightened it up a bit, well more than a bit. leak disappeared. until the next day!! i have another brand new filter i can put on. # on the filter is OS 28.

can the filter mount be cracked if a filter is run down too tight? the oil literally puddles on top of the filter, then drip, drip, drip. anybody btdt? on the he's. with the splitter and 2 hoses the fan pushes an incredible ammount of heat.

kevin

Posted by: Bleyseng Feb 29 2004, 10:50 AM

I suppose its "possible" to crack the oil filter mount if you tightened the oil filter witha wrench setup. Pull it off to check it and replace it. I have a spare if you need a good one Kevin.

Geoff

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 29 2004, 11:02 AM

thanks geoff. i have one on the spare 2.0. i'll pull the filter later and post a picture. i'm 99% sure an engine pull is in my future. then things will get out of hand. some times i'm not sure about the young lads at the local parts place . is that the same filter and # you use? i aways went with contact + 3/4 turn with the filter.

kevin

Posted by: sunfloweryellow914 Feb 29 2004, 11:07 AM

Those pesky oil galley plugs could be the problem. Can't give you any advice as to that diagnosis, but if one blows out completely it is catastrophic.

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 29 2004, 11:14 AM

it's not catastrophic. just messy. the oil pressure light goes off(dark). a bad cooler seal would make me think i would see a stream of oil.

kevin

Posted by: Bleyseng Feb 29 2004, 11:15 AM

Yes, they are a problem but I don't recall one right over the oil filter?
I tighten the filter by hand then 3/4 more just like you Kevin.

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 29 2004, 11:22 AM

that's why i don't suspect the cooler seals. the area below the cooler mounting surface would be coated with crap. the filter is somewhat forward of the point where the cooler meets the case. i can't imagine the oil moving down and forward with the engine running.

kevin

Posted by: Brad Roberts Feb 29 2004, 12:06 PM

The sending unit for the idiot light is leaking... it is right above the oil filter.... light is coming on... HUM ???? could be....LOL

B

Posted by: rhodyguy Feb 29 2004, 12:25 PM

it was loose. that was the first thing i did. do you use teflon tape on the threads? i'll go look with a flashlight right now and report back. edit. dry as a cow skull on the desert sand on the case top. the mahle filter OS28 is correct? i have to go to dave h's house later

kevin

Posted by: Brad Roberts Feb 29 2004, 12:27 PM

NO TAPE. It is a taper fit. Make damn sure it is locked down... OH they go bad also over time and leak from the actual sender and NOT the threads.

B

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 29 2004, 01:20 PM

Brad could be correct about the leaking switch and teflon tape is a no-no.

Another one is the cooler itself, some PO may have over torqued the nuts and bent the cooler. I've seen this a couple of times, if it is bent then it's scrap.

Posted by: Martin Baker Feb 29 2004, 01:52 PM

...................

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 2 2004, 08:16 AM

fixed. it was the mechanics fault. he put the filter on too tight.

kevin

Posted by: DNHunt Mar 2 2004, 09:15 AM

Ya gotta watch those mechanics that work for less than the goin rate. You just have to stay right on top of them and not let them outa your sight or something like this happens. Hope ya ate his ass good.

Sure helps to have an owner that knows what he's doing so he can backstop the mechanic. Way to go.

Dave

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 9 2004, 06:32 AM

this damn engine is coming out tomorrow!!! dry for a few days. started it in the garage yest and there is oil all over the floor. you got plans dave?

kevin

Posted by: DNHunt Mar 9 2004, 07:33 AM

Kevin

I gotta ship the crated engine, pick up some parts, then I'm yours. I'll bring my jack. I should make it by 11.

Sorry to hear

Dave

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 9 2004, 08:11 AM

stop by if you would like to. this will get out of hand. i'll pull the tin and send it off to the powder coaters, maybe the spare plenum and runners i have too. costco has "oil eater" in the local store again, so i'll be restocking that item. i'll put those mounts i got from you in. new cooler seals, perhaps a new front oil seal if that can be done, swap the filter mount, fan belt, new isolator blocks, fuel lines, etc.... i'll make the big list and order everything at once this time. bye-bye $400. note to self, get new disposable gloves. i wish that complete 2.0 that was at fordals was available. it was long gone. at $600 for a complete engine (with approx 70k miles) it didn't last long. can you and gerry get the box in the van by yourselves?

kevin

Posted by: DNHunt Mar 9 2004, 08:19 AM

Yep

The kid is pretty strong and I got plenty of weight I can throw around. Besides, I'm pretty smart I'll use a ramp and hand truck.

I can bring you a box of gloves if you don't mind vinyl. I wear them all day so I like my hands nekkid.

Dave

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 11 2004, 08:09 AM

well. it was the oil seals (i hope) among other issues. here's ashot of the back of the fan housing. the front of the block was covered in crap. the worn out, squashed cork seal under the oil fill tower didn't help much either.

kevin

Attached image(s)

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 11 2004, 08:14 AM

i was to dirty to take a picture of the block yest. thanks to dave hunt for bringing over a couple of cans of berryman's. can the front oil seal on the crank be r&r'd without splitting the case? should i even worry about it?

kevin

Attached image(s)

Posted by: DNHunt Mar 11 2004, 08:19 AM

Gawd Kevin is that the same engine. You were right about get a little anal about cleaning. What a difference.

Dave

Posted by: 2-OH! Mar 11 2004, 08:21 AM

Kevin:

Yes it can and yes you should...While your at it, change the rear one as well...I have a new extra rear one I will donate...You also should reseal the pump, oil filter support and oil cooler...

All can be done easily in a day...

2-OH!

Posted by: 2-OH! Mar 11 2004, 08:23 AM

Oh yea...don't forget the distributer O-Ring...All easy fixes while it's on the ground...

2-OH!

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 11 2004, 08:28 AM

2-oh. sorry i never hooked up on the paint view. i was working in the yard and it was 5 when i realised i was supposed to be elsewhere i'm going to email you my home phone. give me a call when you have a moment, please. if you're right on the seals, i want to do all that i can.

kevin

Posted by: Bleyseng Mar 11 2004, 09:43 AM

Yeah, it comes out with the case intact. Not the easiest to do without effin the case so be careful with the screwdriver!
Geoff

Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 11 2004, 11:15 AM

Be careful about removing that fan hub. I used some really WIDE pieces of stiff steel to spread the load out across the front of the case. I used the fan mounting bolts to pull the hub off the crank; ran them in far enough to pinch the "fender washers" between the end of the bolt and the case, then turned each one 1/4 turn until the hub fell off. That made it easy.

Good thing, too... I wound up doing the job twice, same as usual. Don't ask why...

--DD

Posted by: rhodyguy Mar 11 2004, 09:36 PM

it only gets worse. while looking at it to make the "list" of items (still growing), the tin is so crappy ...., might as well powder coat it while the engine out. but it's kind of bent up a bit. i need some 1.8 tin. we need a flying dollar bill smiley. thanks for the tips guys.

kevin