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Posted by: pete-stevers Jun 11 2009, 10:34 AM

just wondering what you guys have used to bond the fiber glass to the steel fenders? what have you used, how many years have you run with it??

Posted by: jmill Jun 11 2009, 10:42 AM

There was a recent topic about it. You might want to have them bolt on. There's a blue car out there that looks fantastic.

I rough up the metal and use a 2 part 3M epoxy when I bond glass to metal.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=95639&hl=fiberglass+flares

Posted by: pete-stevers Jun 11 2009, 11:28 AM

no thanks to the bolt on look, on someone else's car they are just fine, but not on mine.

Posted by: Dr. Roger Jun 11 2009, 12:06 PM

a rough scuff on both surfaces, 2 part epoxy applied to both surfaces, drill-screwed, 3 inches on center, to fender and let to cure for a week before driving.
removed screws after 3? months.
2 years later, zero cracks,zero imperfections and that's without body stiffening and a V8 car. so you know that body is flexing.

i would definitely do it again.

Posted by: pete-stevers Jun 12 2009, 03:06 PM

what type of two part epoxy did you use?

Posted by: scotty b Jun 12 2009, 03:14 PM

Need the gun that costs about 40.00 or you can try to borrow one from a local shop

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08116-pc-11231-594.aspx

Posted by: jmill Jun 12 2009, 03:26 PM

I have one you can borrow. You need the tips though. It's a swirly type deal that mixes it up.

edit - Just saw your in Canada. With shipping costs you might be able to buy one cheaper.


http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-mixing-nozzles-08193-p-10859.aspx

Posted by: pcar916 Jun 12 2009, 04:38 PM

Mine have been on for about 17 years and are still strong, and that's through many years of track and road use with several sets of tires and wheels with various offsets. You know, rubbing the flares now and again. No problems after they were relieved, but the shop that did the flare work left in the rivets. I didn't know that of course until lately.

The different expansion rates eventually crack and bubble the paint/substrate. Whichever solution you use, leave no metal in there or you'll be patching it... down the road.

Good Luck! RKM

Posted by: pete-stevers Jun 12 2009, 05:05 PM

--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Jun 12 2009, 02:14 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Need the gun that costs about 40.00 or you can try to borrow one from a local shop

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08116-pc-11231-594.aspx
[/quote]
how much of the goop will i need?

Posted by: andys Jun 12 2009, 05:39 PM

I used a two-part epxoy adhesive called PC-7. No need for the $40 gun. Available from the Do-It Center, ACE Hardware, etc. http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc7.asp

Andys

Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 12 2009, 08:59 PM

There is aproduct called Vette Panel adhesive. Very good for bonding glas to steel. Grind the panel inside and out. Pre-fit the flares. Any metal edge that doesn't contact the glass use a body hammer and flare the metal to meet the glass. Bond the panels with The Panel adhesive recommended or the Vette Panel adhesive, Glass the flares to the inside and outside of the steel making a glass and steel sandwich. Be sure to prep the inside of the flares and fenders and paint them properly and the work will last a long time like mine. 1994 to date.

Disclaimer: I hate glass flares. They change shape in the sun, they read through the paint, and they require more work to finish than steel.

Posted by: charliew Jun 14 2009, 11:32 PM

Almost any fg repair that uses stranded fg will print through after awhile. Thats why you should always gel coat over the bare fg before the primercoats are started.