Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: craig3x Jun 11 2009, 06:39 PM

I recently aquired a bone stock '75 with a 1.8 and was told it ran great last time it was started 6 months ago. So I charged the battery, turned the key....and nothing. The other electronics work though. I can hear the fuel pump kick on, headlights pop up, horn works, etc.
Does it sound like an ignition switch problem, or a starter problem? Or something else I'm not thinking of?

Posted by: SLITS Jun 11 2009, 06:45 PM

The ignition switch could be broken internally not making contact in the start position. You said all the other lights come on.

How about the wire to the starter being disconnected at the solenoid somehow (yellow wire to spade terminal)?d

You can jump the starter between the large top pole on the solenoid and the spade terminal to test the starter. Make sure it is out of gear first though.

You can turn the key on and do the above and see if it will start.

Posted by: jmill Jun 11 2009, 07:09 PM

Mechanically agitate the starter with a hammer. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck. Hammer blow frees it up. Before you do that tighten battery connections. A loose connection will run the lights but starter can't draw enough amps. BTDT.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jun 11 2009, 07:21 PM

"Some" '75s have the seat belt interlock relay under the passenger seat. If this is one of them, make sure the 2 big yellow wires are bridged. Make sure you have good battery connections, and that the tranny ground strap is good, then jack the car up, chock the front wheels, make sure it's in neutral, and jump from the battery cable post on the solenoid to the tab where the yellow actuator wire is connected. If it cranks when you do that, look to the ignition switch. BTW, whacking on the starter or its solenoid is a BAD idea.

The Cap'n

Posted by: craig3x Jun 11 2009, 08:36 PM

I will try that, thanks

Posted by: jmill Jun 11 2009, 09:18 PM

The solenoid is a magnetic coil, spring and plunger with a set of contacts for the motor. After sitting for long periods plungers hang up. I think it's a bad idea to buy a new starter when one smack of a deadblow would suffice. If your tripping over cash go ahead and buy a new starter for a hung up solenoid.

Posted by: Gint Jun 11 2009, 09:31 PM

If whacking a solenoid with a hammer to get it rotating, you're already beyod the point that the hammering will make anything worse.

Posted by: craig3x Jun 11 2009, 10:12 PM

jiggled the ignition very hard and got it to turn over. Fired right up. Took it on it's first drive in 4 years (after changing oil of course) I notice when I let off the gas, the rpms like to stay up for a second or two before it drops down. hmmm???

Posted by: Gint Jun 11 2009, 10:13 PM

Behind the key is the actual switch. It's in a white plastic body. It's broken/cracked/etc...

Posted by: yellow914 Jun 11 2009, 10:17 PM

I have a 75, 1.8...and i noticed when this happened that if I could wiggle the key enough to get the fuel gauge to register it would start otherwise no way although everything seemed to work...and yes it was the ignition switch...easy fix...and cheap too!

Posted by: xperu Jun 12 2009, 06:36 AM

I had the same problem just as you discribed, it turned out to be the white plastic switch. The old one was replaced "it was badly cracked" so I replaced it with a new one, turned out the new switch was bad, so I replace it and the car started right up. Mike

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 12 2009, 06:59 AM

pic


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Rotary'14 Jun 12 2009, 07:15 AM

I think if you need to jiggle the key, the problem lies near the ignition switch. I bet the plastic part is cracked. Easy to change, just be sure to disconnect your battery. If your RPM "floats", I would check the throttle return spring, and make sure you don't have too much play in your throttle cable.

-Rob

Posted by: SLITS Jun 12 2009, 07:57 AM

The RPM will "float" if your deacceleration valve is working correctly. An emission device that on closed throttle adds air to the intake system to avoid an overly rich mixture going out the tail pipe. Only comes into play during deacceleration.

Posted by: craig3x Jun 12 2009, 12:33 PM

Any pictures of that part or where it is?

Posted by: SLITS Jun 12 2009, 12:50 PM

#19 in the image and yes, I will provide a link to the image.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/Parts/Fuel/fuel_function_diagram_small.htm

Usually mounted, passenger side, front of engine or engine compartment sidewall.

Posted by: craig3x Jun 12 2009, 04:21 PM

Awesome. thanks!
But I thin k I have found the problem. When I step on the pedal, it stick a bit and slowly drags back. I ched the spring at the throttle body and opened it by hand. It snapped right back. I'm guessing I have a throttle cable problem. Probably lots of corosion/dragging in the sleeve. Or maybe a pedal problem??

Posted by: kwales Jun 12 2009, 05:33 PM

Pedals are notorious for rusting at the hinge and hanging up....

Posted by: craig3x Jun 12 2009, 05:46 PM

do they usually need to be replaced, or can they be freed up?

Posted by: kwales Jun 12 2009, 05:51 PM

Depends,

Won't hurt to try to free it up, those 911/914 pedals are expen$ive.