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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Help me diagnose/fix my relay board!

Posted by: kpfoten Jun 25 2009, 03:47 PM

My '73 1.7 is getting the FI system re-installed after the PO put carbs in.

I'm not getting power to my fuel pump--I've tested continuity and think my problem lies in the relay board.

The left post for the 25A fuse should receive 12V and I'm getting nothing. The post looks a little melted like something happened to it at one point. The rivet from underneath (red, 2nd picture) is continuous, but this should extend onto the tract (not sure the correct terminology), right? There seems to be a break between the rivet and the tract (green). Sorry about the lack of focus...

If so, how do I make a quick fix? Thanks!

Attached image(s)

Posted by: 904svo Jun 25 2009, 04:37 PM

Quick fix, hope this helps you.

Attached Image

Posted by: kpfoten Jun 25 2009, 05:34 PM

Thanks--makes sense now.

How do I do a permanent fix? Will a drop of solder do?

Posted by: Project 6 Jun 25 2009, 05:37 PM

Get another relay board. I have one sitting on a shelf.....$20 and I'll pay shipping.

Posted by: proto31 Jun 25 2009, 05:38 PM

I agree, get a new (used) relay board. It will save you a bunch of time.

Posted by: carr914 Jun 25 2009, 06:43 PM

I've got one too - a 1971 1.7

T.C.

Posted by: dbgriffith75 Jun 25 2009, 07:03 PM

I don't know if it would work, but if you think there's a break in the rivet, what about drilling out the old rivet and replacing it with a new one? You can get copper rivets- don't know if you can get them from a parts store but they're available online.

Just a thought.

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 25 2009, 11:36 PM

if there is no continuity between the rivet and the surface you can clean the area and solder the rivet to the surface.

Posted by: McMark Jun 25 2009, 11:39 PM

Yup, toss in the trash and don't look back. There are enough of these guys out there that it's not worth messing with.

Posted by: Tom Jun 26 2009, 11:13 AM

Yes, clean the contact and rivet really good. Wire brush carefully until it shines, them wash with alcohol. Let dry and solder. Be careful with the heat level, you are working around plastic. Did mine years ago and no problems. If after soldering, you don't have continuity, the the problem is on the back side. You will have to remove the sealant then clean as on front side and solder. Should be good as new- maybe better. There are some threads about resealing the back side also, just have to search for them.
Tom