We'll..
I got another hazard switch today and still have no turn signals. I have replaced the turn signal lever and put a new relay in. I also checked the light bulbs and they are 1157's. I found a ground under the dash above the fuse box and it is tight. This thing is really starting a piss me off. I'm thinking it's going back on jackstands til next year. I'm at a lose and there is no one around here to take it too. Any more suggestions? It's a 72 that I would like to right now!
Only suggestions I can make are to find places in the wiring where you can apply 12 V to see if things operate; for example, take a spare 12 V car battery and ground the - and apply +12 V to a connector (lets pretend there is one in the front of the trunk) and see if the lights work. If they do, then go forward toward the fuse box and recheck. I'm having to do something similar with a Vanagon I have where the turn signals and wipers don't work. I verify that the lights work from the turn signal switch back to the lights, then go forward. I found a disconnected ground wire and now have wipers. I also thought maybe the turn signal and wiper switches didn't work but saved $ by not buying a part for a part still working.
get a diagram and trace power from the fuse up, wire by wire.
if your not familiar with this get a good test light (for visual), or better yet a volt meter (for acual voltage drop).
ground and check your voltage (or test w/ light) at fuse (example 12.5v or lights up). locate where this wire go's to next. check the voltage or test with light. keep going wire by wire and component by component.
note; make sure ALL the fuses are in and good. these cars do strange electrical things with fuse issues
good luck
trying to work on this again. I had an exta fuse panel and some of my connections were corroded so I clean it up and swapped panels. I also have a new relay in. I got a used hazard switch and put it in and nothing. Actually when I pulled it to see if the hazards would work it blew fuse 11 with the new hazard switch. I cleaned up my old one but and put it back in but no luck. Now i'm studying up on wiring diagrams to try to trace things. I'm not good at electrical so anymore advise would be great. I do have a multimeter but I really don't know how to use it. I'm wondering why that fuse blew? I have good bulbs in but I still need to clean all their electrical connections. I hate this stuff. In my part of the world I have about 2 months of driving left before it's stored for the winter and I'm running out of time. guess I could just use hand signals. Can anyone refresh my memory on those
Let me know the results of this test, with key off and 4 way flasher on what bulbs light or flash? PS,the flasher should blink.
came home for lunch so I could try it but I don't get any light on the hazard switch with the car off. No clicking and no outer lights either. What's next!!! I do have a blown #7 fuse that I'm going to replace tonight.
Thanks
Scott
I didn't get any volts from either side on #9. I did on 10 just to make sure I was doing it right. I checked with the key off and the 4 way pulled out.
on the top I got 12v but the bottom was sparking and barely had anything. Then the fuse blew!
I took all the bulbs out and put a new fuse in and it started to arc little at the bottom when I turned the flasher on. I was trying to get a reading at the bottom and the fuse blew. I'm out of fuses so I'll get more today. I had another fuse board so last night I cleaned it up and moved the connections to the new board. maybe I mixed up these 2?? would it hurt anything to switch them 2 and try it just to see. I thought I had them all correct but you never know.
You have a short in the circuit, goto to your auto store a buy a 3157 lamp.
You then twist the leads coming out of the bulb. Use clip leads to connect
these leads to the # 11 fuse the bulb will be use as a indicator to find your short.
The bulb will glow if there is a short by checking your connections you should be
able to find the short. Fuse #11 powers the interior light,4 ways and buzzer circuit
(if equipped) and the clock if you have the console. I would check the interior light
light circuit first as this wiring get shorted from the seats. When you clear the short
the bulb should go out.
Hope you find your short.
I have a 3157 bulb but i'm confused on how to run the test. do I hook up the bulb to to panel with the fuse in #11.
"The bulb will glow if there is a short by checking your connections you should be
able to find the short". I'm not sure exactly how to do this either.
I did take all the bulbs out again, with them all out and a good fuse in, once I pull the hazard switch the fuse blows.
I forgot you said it runs the interior light. I went out and took that bulb out, put a new fuse in, can pulled the hazard switch and the fuse did not blow. I still don't know how to fix it but maybe it is in the interior light. Am I looking for a bare wire or something?
Where does the interior light ground. I traced the wires on pelican and it goes to ground connection point A. Does anyone know which one is A
According to my diagram, the interior light grounds in the engine compartment.
i eally dont understand it but i've seen weak grounds take out fuses (twice). redundant grounds will never hurt a 40 year old car I.M.O.
mike
I cleaned that ground up and put the interior bulb in and pulled the hazard switch and it didn't blow the fuse. So I put all the bulbs back in and pulled the hazard switch but the lights still won't work. the hazard switch doesn't blink or click. I started it to see if my turn signals would work but they don't either.
Shouldn't the turn signals be a 1156 single post bulb. The 1157 would be for the brake/tailight
Try reseating all the connectors into the signal houseings. Make sure the wire lead clips are makeing contact where they should. I had an issue with mine doing something simular. The one contact wanted to wander once I went to put the rubber boot back on. Good luck.
Try this if you can find the flasher relay check for the following pin#31 should be
grounded,pin#49 should have +12 volts on it when the 4way is pull out. I will guess that pin #31 has a bad ground wire on it, that ground is located under the dash by the fuse panel. Pin31 has a red wire on it, pin49 has a brown wire on it.
Terminal #49 on 4way switch has the Red wire going to the flasher, terminal #30
on switch gets it power from fuse#11.
Ok,
I went and got 2 1156's for the front. I rechecked all my connections to make sure they were good. I took all the bulbs out. With the hazard switch on I put the bulbs back in one by one and never got any lights or the hazard switch to light up or click. I also checked the volts at both the switch and the relay and I get 12v. Since I tightened the ground I don't blow any fuses but now I don't get anything. I did notice that if I wiggle the relay it will click sometimes.
Sounds like you have a bad relay, check this first. With the key off, turn on the left
turn signal= parking lights should be on the left side. Now do the same with the right turn signal=parking lights on right side should be lit. Now turn on the key with
the EM brake handle pull up, the brake lamp should flash on the gauge. If it doesn't
you have a bad turn signal relay.
with the key off and the left turn signal on my left turn signal lights up. With the right turn signal on my right marker light is on. I would think they would be the same but they are not. With the key on and the EM brake up I have a solid red light and solid green light. no flashing light. I'm guessing I need to try a new relay?
I'll have to order one. I think Pelican has them. It will take few days to get to me. I'll let you know when I get it. thanks
Scott
I think I found one at O'Reillys. This one is a Buss 726 heavy duty electronic flasher. It has the same ends on it and it is for a 12v system. This should work right?
The new relay didn't work. I still have something that puzzles me. With the key off, with the left turn signal on, the left turn signal bulb lights up. with the right turn signal on, the right marker light lights up.
That is "normal". It should do that. That is the european parking feature. Key off, or not in at all, with switch turned left, left front/rear ts lights should be on. Same for the right.
With the key off left turn signal on, Both front and rear should light. Thia is also true for the right turn signal. I would correct the wiring mistake first, With the key
on turn on your parking lights and made sure the correct bulbs light up. Sound like you have a wiring problem in your light circuit.
who knows, I'm going to look at it more tonight and see if I can find anything. I have no mechanics around here that can work on this. I am on my own here. I'm learning alot more but seems i'm going backwards instead of forwards on this one.
been dealing with turn signals on my 72 1.7..
flashers work, left side parking (ignition off) works, and no signals..
I decided to pull the steering wheel and inspect, found that one of the contacts on the flasher armature (there are two long copper connectors with two springs behind them) was mashed down, frozen and both springs behind it were disintegrated... trying to find two springs now.. I understand your pain...
water is the enemy.
no to figure out why the fresh air blower doesnt work...
until I got a brand new OE relay, since then it has worked 100%. Worth the expense.
where to get a new????????
Do the 4 way flashers work? If not, check you have power (12 volts) on pin #49
on the flasher relay (Red wire) also check that there is no power on #31 (Brown wire) if you have voltage there your ground wire is bad. Do this with the key off
and 4 ways on.
The 4 ways don't work. I do have 12v at the red wire and nothing at the brown wire. I have another relay ordered from Pelican that should be here Friday. I'm hoping that fixes it but I'm betting it won't!
let me try measuring the relay instead of the switch
I checked on the relay and on 49 I have 12v and on 31 I have nothing. Then I wiggled the relay a little but and the fuse on 11 blew. I'm sure it's in my wiring somewhere!
So I get my new relay from Pelican today, not really hoping that it would fix the problem but I wanted a relay I could trust. So I put it in and pull the hazard switch and the #11 fuse blew. So I took out all the bulbs, including the interior light bulb, and tried again. The fuse blew again. I have another hazard switch and tried it. same thing, fuse blew!
I did what you said and the fuse only blew when I plugged the red wire back in. Looks like I need to trace that red wire!
thanks
doesn't that red wire run up to the relay? I'm thinking about cutting the rubber mount off the relay wires and see what they look like... I did find a bare spot on the blue/white wire coming from the relay. I think it goes to the tach?
I cut off the rubber grommet from the relay and all the connections and plugged them back in. fuse still blew. I traced the blue/white wire up to the tach and pulled it out of the harness. There was a small spot where the wire was rubbed down. I put another fuse in and made sure the blue/white wire was away from any metal and not touching #31 on the relay. fuse still blew!
Here's the brake down on the wires to the flasher relay, Pin#49 Red wire comming from em switch #49, Pin31 Brown wire goes to ground, Pin#K Blue/white wire that
goes to the turn signal indicator bulbs and Pin#49a Black/green which goes to 49a
on em switch and to one side of the Brake lamp bulb in the gas gauge
It's a real bummer that this issue has been plaguing you so long. I redrew the turn signal portion of the schematic and simplified it a bit so it is easier to see the important connections.
Bare with me as I familiarize myself with this circuit. There's basically 4 components involved:
1) 4-Way Flasher Switch
2) Turn Signal Switch
3) Flasher Relay
4) Light bulbs
Power comes to this circuit through either fuse 9 or 11 depending on whether the 4-way flasher switch is active. Fuse 9 is switched power; that is, it is powered only when the ignition switch is ON. Fuse 11 is powered all the time. The 4-way switch is shown in the OFF position.
When the 4-way switch is pulled, power comes from Fuse 11.
12V power then goes to the Flasher relay on the RED wire; pins on both 4-way switch and flasher relay are #49. The flasher relay sends 12V power to the turn signal switch and the 4-way flasher switch on pin #49a.
When there is a load on the flasher relay pin #49a, it will click on and off, thus blinking the lights. A load is placed on this pin when either the 4-way flasher switch is pulled or the turn signal stalk is put in the left or right position. The load is the turn signal light bulbs.
********************
TESTING THE CIRCUITS
********************
If I were to walk up to your car right now to help you, this is what I would do the following in this order. You may have done some of these already. One of these steps will fail and thus you will come closer to isolating the issue. These steps will not solve the issue, just isolate it.
1) Check the wiring as shown below. Look at each component and make sure each colored wire is connected to the pin numbers shown below. The relays and switches have these pin numbers embossed by each pin.
2) If all connections look correct, then start to isolate each part of the circuit one by one. Follow each of the following steps assuming each is ok. If any of the measurements show trouble, you have found the issue; stop and investigate.
3) Start with the switch pins 15-30-49 of the 4-way flasher switch. This is a very simple circuit. 12V power to pin 49 comes from 15 (Fuse 9 with ignition switch ON) or from pin 30 (Fuse 11 with ignition switch ON or OFF). Pull the RED wire off of the the 4-way flasher switch pin 49. Turn on ignition and measure 12V from pin 49 to ground. Turn off ignition and measure 0V from pin 49 to ground. If this is ok, then this part of the circuit is ok. Pull the 4-way flasher switch and again measure 12V from pin 49 to ground.
4) Turn off ignition, turn off 4-way flasher switch. Replace the RED wire on pin 49 on the 4-way flasher switch.
5) Pull the RED wire off of the flasher relay pin 49. Measure the RED wire to ground. With the ignition switch ON, measure 12V. Turn off ignition and measure 0V from RED wire to ground. With the 4-way flasher switch pulled, measure 12V. If OK here, the RED wire to pin 49 is ok. Turn off ignition and push in 4-way flasher switch. Replace the RED wire to pin 49 of the flasher relay.
6) Pull the wires off of pin 49a of the flasher relay. Measure the pin 49a to ground. With the ignition switch ON, measure 12V. With the 4-way flasher switch pulled, measure 12V. If OK here, the flasher relay is ok. Turn off ignition and push in 4-way flasher switch. Replace the wires to pin 49a of the flasher relay.
7) Check 4-way flasher switch: Pull the R and L wires from the switch. This removes the lights from the circuit. Pull the switch and measure 12V from R to ground and L to ground. This will test all parts of the 4-way flasher switch.
8) Check the light bulb wiring: Remove all the light bulbs; front and rear bulbs and the dash indicator bulbs. Pull the wire off of pin 49a of the flasher relay. With ignition off, 4-way flasher switch off, and turn signal off, measure resistance (ohms) from the pulled wire to ground. This must be an open circuit. The only path to ground through this wire are the bulbs. If this is ok, then wires to the 4-way flasher and to the turn signal switch are ok.
9) With the wire on pin 49a of the flasher relay still pulled off, put turn signal to the left and measure resistance (ohms) the pulled wire to ground. This must be an open circuit.
10) With the wire on pin 49a of the flasher relay still pulled off, put turn signal to the right and measure resistance (ohms) the pulled wire to ground. This must be an open circuit.
Which one of these steps fail?
If none of these fail, replace the wire on pin 49a of the flasher relay. Turn ignition on and try the turn signals. Try the 4-way flasher switch.
If things are still ok, replace ONE bulb, any bulb then try the 4-way flasher switch and the turn signal switch. Continue replacing one bulb at a time and retry the turn signals.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Same circuit as previous post except circuit elements are rearranged so current flows downhill and wiring is simplified. Also added pictorial relays in the flasher relay.
Attached thumbnail(s)
I'm still working in the tests. I got to #3, with the red wire off 49 everything is fine. If I put the red wire back on the flasher switch it blows fuse 11. So I went on to test the relay. Same thing, everything checks out but when I put the red wire back on 49 with the switch pulled out it blows the fuse. Does this mean my ground wire from the relay is bad?
Did you pull the red wire off of the flasher relay and measure the voltage on the red wire?
Step 3 is just to test the 4-way switch. Sounds like this is ok.
Steps 4-6 now test part of the flasher relay. Don't try to connect the entire system and test yet. You have a short somewhere and it hasn't been found yet.
If you've tested the red wire at the flasher relay, then you've done step 5.
5) Pull the RED wire off of the flasher relay pin 49. Measure the RED wire to ground. With the ignition switch ON, measure 12V. Turn off ignition and measure 0V from RED wire to ground. With the 4-way flasher switch pulled, measure 12V. If OK here, the RED wire to pin 49 is ok. Turn off ignition and push in 4-way flasher switch. Replace the RED wire to pin 49 of the flasher relay.
Step 6 will vindicate your flasher relay. With the loads and 4-way and turn signal switches removed, the flasher relay shouldn't pop the fuse.
6) Pull the wires off of pin 49a of the flasher relay. Measure the pin 49a to ground. With the ignition switch ON, measure 12V. With the 4-way flasher switch pulled, measure 12V. If OK here, the flasher relay is ok. Turn off ignition and push in 4-way flasher switch. Replace the wires to pin 49a of the flasher relay.
It's working!!
Thanks to everyone for help, especially Spoke and 904svo. You guys were more than patient with me and my lack of electrical skills. Spoke actually gave him his number and last night he spent an hour on the phone with me tracing my short. We found it was in the turn signal lever. I had another one and swapped it out and now they work! Well, my right front turn signal is not working but I'm going to look at that tonight. I think a wire may have come off or the bulb is bad but last night I didn't care. I went driving around anyway
thanks again
Man, you got some top notch help. How 'bout this makes it in the classics? Can I get an Amen.
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