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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Trans leak at the linkage shaft

Posted by: URY914 Sep 30 2009, 08:23 AM

The daily driver has been on jackstands for the last month. I cleaned the engine/trans and it was spotless. After a few weeks I notice a spot on the floor under the trans. The rear linkage plastic cover has a drop on it ready to fall. I clean it off and loosen the clamp to remove the cover. I pull it down and HALF A QUART of trans fluid dumps out on the floor. Oh and burnt fluid smells sooooo good too. barf.gif

So it would seem that I have a seal that is leaking at the linkage input shaft. Is there an easy way to fix this??? confused24.gif This is a side shift.

Posted by: tradisrad Sep 30 2009, 08:37 AM

YEP, replace the seal at the shift shaft. I did mine a year or two ago and it was not very difficult.
shift shaft seal on this page: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_TRANSM_pg2.htm

Posted by: URY914 Sep 30 2009, 08:39 AM

Perfect! You even provided a link.

Thank you

Posted by: Cupomeat Sep 30 2009, 08:45 AM

BTW, why was the transmission fluid in the side shift cover "burnt"?

This would concern me as there isn't any reason why it would overheat in the cover.

Unless, the fluid got so low in the transmission that it over heated and some of it leaked down as well.

Posted by: URY914 Sep 30 2009, 08:52 AM

It smelled burnt probably because it was old and hadn't been changed for who knows how long. It was most likey burnt before it leaked into the cover.

Posted by: Dr Evil Sep 30 2009, 11:50 PM

I have these seals and can ship Thurs if you need. You need to drain the box and remove the console to fix it. OR, you can buy one on my rebuilt selector units and just swap it in. It comes with the cone screws and new shift bushing. idea.gif

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 07:04 AM

Thanks Mike but I ordered the seal from Pelican last night and it'll be here Tuesday. I've already drained the rest of the fluid.

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 11:34 AM

Right on. Did you order the O-ring that you will need to replace on the side that goes into the gear box as well? I have those too.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 11:58 AM

O ring??? confused24.gif

Nope didn't order it. Didn't know I needed to. sad.gif

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 12:06 PM

P/N 999-701-359-40

I can get you one out right now for $2 shipped biggrin.gif
PM me your address.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 12:26 PM

PM sent

Posted by: tat2dphreak Oct 1 2009, 12:53 PM

yep, I replaced the little one, and forgot the o-ring, and damned if the o-ring didn't start leaking afterwards.

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 01:53 PM

Its in the mail smile.gif

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 02:45 PM

Perfect, thanks!

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 05:47 PM

To remove the console it looks like I need to drive out that roll pin.
Correct???

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 06:12 PM

Big negative good budy! You need to remove the shift linkage (did you order new cone screws?) and then just remove the 2 nuts holding it in place. Click on my rebuild link below for pics.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 06:28 PM

I did remove the linkage. I don't in your thread how to drop the console out. Do I just put it in nutral and it comes out?

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 07:15 PM

Yup. You need to wiggle it back and forth while pulling it out. You will get it.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 07:34 PM

OK, got 'er out.

So the O ring is what is causing the leak and not the seal?

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 07:39 PM

No, the shaft seal is leaking if your cover fills with oil. BUT, when you remove the console you need to replace the O-ring or it will leak.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 07:42 PM

But to replace the seal I'll need to remove the roll pin and pull the shaft out.

Posted by: tradisrad Oct 1 2009, 07:51 PM

I vaguely remember replacing the o-ring. I dont recall having to drive out any roll pin either. Sorry I did not have as complete of an answer as the Dr. did, but I've only done it once...

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 08:03 PM

The Dr. is probably busy in an O.R. and can't reply right now.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 08:27 PM

biggrin.gif



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Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 1 2009, 08:32 PM

Yes, remove the INNER pin so that when you reinsert your rod it goes with the seal instead of against it.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 1 2009, 08:54 PM

OK but this will have to wait till Sat. morning. Thanks for all your help.


BTW, is "reinsert your rod" a medical term? biggrin.gif


Posted by: maf914 Oct 2 2009, 12:30 PM

Paul,

Is that a bronze shift rod bushing in the console? If so, does it work okay? How is the fit on the shift rod? Snug or loose?

Posted by: ericread Oct 2 2009, 01:54 PM

QUOTE(maf914 @ Oct 2 2009, 11:30 AM) *

Paul,

Is that a bronze shift rod bushing in the console? If so, does it work okay? How is the fit on the shift rod? Snug or loose?


I have a bronze shift rod bushing. It's not totally snug, but I think it works better than the plastic bushings.

Eric Read

Posted by: r_towle Oct 2 2009, 02:24 PM

Paul,

When you are ready to get the roll pin out, support the forked piece very well so you dont stress out the aluminum console while banging.

Also, while its out and simple, flip the bronze bushing around...its gives you a bit more clearance for 5th gear...

Rich

Posted by: URY914 Oct 2 2009, 02:31 PM

The bushing was installed by the previous owner. I didn't even know it wasn't plastic.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 2 2009, 02:32 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 2 2009, 01:24 PM) *

Paul,

When you are ready to get the roll pin out, support the forked piece very well so you dont stress out the aluminum console while banging.

Also, while its out and simple, flip the bronze bushing around...its gives you a bit more clearance for 5th gear...

Rich


You mean put the flange on the inside of the console?

It is put in with JB Weld it look like.

Posted by: r_towle Oct 2 2009, 02:38 PM

Mine was all fine until I rebuilt and readjusted the shifter forks...then it hit.
If yours is in with JBWeld then leave it...
If you ever have a problem with getting into 5th...that is the issue to look at first..
It could be from the position of the engine/tranny....it could be the shifter adjustment up front...
Its really slight, but you just cant get all the way into fifth..the piece that attaches to the end of the shift rod hits that bushing...just a smidge.

Rich

Posted by: URY914 Oct 3 2009, 07:02 PM

QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 1 2009, 06:04 AM) *

Thanks Mike but I ordered the seal from Pelican last night and it'll be here Tuesday. I've already drained the rest of the fluid.


I got the seal in the mail today from Pelican. Three days early!! Who would have thunk it??? biggrin.gif

I should get o-ring on Monday.

Posted by: URY914 Oct 3 2009, 07:06 PM

I drove the roll pin out this morning. I tapped it on one side than the other a few times to get it loose than drove it all the way out. Here are the parts laid out, w/o the O-ring.

The piece on the lower right is the piece that came out with the fluid. It can't be good. sad.gif

Getting the old seal out was more of a pain than getting the pin out.


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Posted by: SlingShot Oct 12 2009, 12:25 PM

Similar Problem I'm having on a 70 914-6. It has the same leak at the shift selector seal. I replaced the seal, and it still leaks. There is a gap between the brass bushing and seal, so I placed an O ring there and that helped the problem, but still leaks. The shaft has some play inside of the brass bushing, but I wouldn't consider it exsesive. Any thought would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris

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