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914World.com _ The Paddock _ Raising Front Spinles - HELP
Posted by: MJ914 Mar 4 2010, 01:14 AM
Hi Guys, I have a 914/6 with early 911 BOGE front struts. I have been told you can drill out the welds and raise the spindles. I have drilled out the welds but the diameter changes in the tube at the point the spindle currently is.
Can the spindles be raised on these struts or do i need a different type???
See attached pics. Thanks in advance....
Attached image(s)
Posted by: Racer Chris Mar 4 2010, 05:17 AM
That method only works on Bilstein struts.
At Tangerine Racing we cut the tube below the spindle and add a section of tubing, then cut the tube below the top threads and remove an equal section of tubing.
Its a little more involved than that but that's the basic concept.
Posted by: ME733 Mar 4 2010, 07:09 AM
..........Question for RACER CHRIS......When the spindle is raised...what will that do , what affect will it have,with respect to,CAMBER changes, TOE setting changes, Castor changes,....during the movement of the suspension,(up or down), and steering input.......thank you. Murray.
Posted by: jmill Mar 4 2010, 08:54 AM
I'm not Racer Chris but I'll give it a shot. IMHO the beauty of raising the spindle is that you lower the car without affecting the lower A arm. Caster and camber would remain the same because those angles stay the same. You have the same suspension travel. Obviously your limited by tire to fender clearances and the chassis to ground distance. You will need to correct the tie rod geometry. There are several kits out there to do that. I've found that having the A arm and tie rod parallel limits bump steer.
Posted by: sww914 Mar 4 2010, 10:55 AM
You can change the camber when you raise the spindle. You can put the spindle in a mill and add or remove camber and weld it all back together.
Rebel Racing has the nicest bump steer kits IMO. He also has struts however you want them. http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html
Posted by: Racer Chris Mar 4 2010, 11:48 AM
Caster and camber would remain the same because those angles stay the same. You have the same suspension travel.
Yes.
Assuming no other changes are made, the front end of the car is lowered by the amount the spindle is raised and the rest of the geometry remains the same.
Posted by: Racer Chris Mar 4 2010, 11:52 AM
You can change the camber when you raise the spindle. You can put the spindle in a mill and add or remove camber and weld it all back together.
Rebel only does this on Bilstein struts IIRC. It is a bit tougher to re-camber a Boge strut.
We bend the steering arm down by the same amount as we raise the spindle to obviate the need for a bump steer kit.
Posted by: sww914 Mar 4 2010, 11:57 AM
You're right, you can only do it on a Bilstein or if you replace the tube with a straight piece. I didn't calrify. 
Posted by: ME733 Mar 4 2010, 04:34 PM
...............Very cool........Thanks guys.
Posted by: MJ914 Mar 4 2010, 04:43 PM
You can change the camber when you raise the spindle. You can put the spindle in a mill and add or remove camber and weld it all back together.
Rebel Racing has the nicest bump steer kits IMO. He also has struts however you want them. http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html
Thanks Racer Chris... I'll try a cut and shut on this strut first. If that's
not succesfull, I guess I'll have to locate a couple of bilsteins.
Posted by: ArtechnikA Mar 5 2010, 06:43 AM
You probably know this already but the ultimate limit on how far you can go is when the bottom of the A-Arm hits the rim. For 15" wheels you get 19-20mm to play with. With more wheel diameter you get more room to play, but they there may be interference issues with the outside of the strut and the inside tire sidewall.
Measure -everything- to avoid head-slapping moments of disappointment later...
Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 5 2010, 09:33 AM
You can also raise the spindles on Koni Struts. They go "right" to the flange. That is almost exactly 18mm.
MJ. As Rich states, make sure you've measured and know what you're looking for here. Anything beyond 18mm "will" have the bottom of the ball joint scraping a 15" wheel as an example.
Also, this is a job that should be left to experts like Chris. I've had a pair done previous to my purchase of them. The weld looked great but, it did not penetrate the "tube" properly. Time for more welding and RS gussets on that pair.
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