How many of you are using gear pumps instead of diaphragm types and what filter element (micron) sizes are you using?
I was a little interested in this as well.
When inspecting the tranny case, I see a couple of places that make me wonder if there is a oil galley right under there.
One very flat spot on the top looks like it was designed to drill & tap.
Then I wondered if you could find two places (IN & OUT) that you could drill & tap and let the tranny do the pumping?
Maybe post on the garage or PM Dr Evil?
Stu
Gear pumps are light years better than the diaphragm pumps. We have had issues with the diaphragm style pumps stripping out and the rubber deteriorating. I would like to try a gear style pump shortly.
On a gearbox you have to be careful about where you spray the oil. It is best to pick up through the drain plug and build a spray bar to spray on the backside of the gears after they mesh. You do not want to spray right into the gear meshing to avoid hydraulic pitting on the gear faces.
I think this is an interesting topic as well. You can always look at how Porsche did it with the 915 as a starting point. If I remember correctly, it used a gear type pump housed in the end cover, driven off the input shaft and a spray bar in the racing versions. I don't know if the factory system used a screen/filter.
WEVO has their own solution for the 915 and it includes a particulate screen. Not sure of the details on that screen, but their solution uses a Weldon Racing pump. If you goto their website...
http://www.weldonracing.com
They list a 100 micron filter/screen for their oil pumps. Also they don't say exactly what their pump design is, but it says no plastic parts, so I am wondering if that means it is not diaphram based.
All of this is 915 related and I expect you would have to roll your own for a 901/911/914 transmission as I don't think there are many (any?) off the shelf solutions out there.
Richard
Gosh, I just typed in responses for the last 30 minutes and the battery went dead so they're gone. Thanks for the responses and I'll get back to this later today after tending to some urgent stuff. In short...
3.6L /w short-geared 914. I'm building up a 915 soon that will use the same cooling system.
1. Temps about 210 and higher in southern summers and aggressive hours through the Arkansas hills and on the track
2. Want to filter out particulates (Clutch LSD)
3. Increased fluid capacity (longer fluid life)
I think Weldon is a vaned pump. Very nice but more than I want to spend since a helical spur-gear will work just fine for $275 instead of nearly $600.
Weldon uses 100 micron, RBRacing uses 90. I've spoken to them and the Mocal 240 micron filter will be fine for a transaxle system. I'm not cooling turbocharger bearings here. More later...
Now in order of the questions.
I considered posting in the garage but thought this group more likely to have a higher ratio of oil coolers per car. I still might if questions linger.
1. I don't know where to drill to get the transaxle to pump itself enough to get the oil through a cooling system but that would be... cool.
2. Figuring out where to drill for fittings is always an interesting task. Often the best places have webbing there. so building up an epoxy boss is always a solution. I just don't like the eventual leak that will form there.
2. I'm sure the temps go much higher in summer but I wasn't tracking them then. I've noticed that on pix of existing systems my cooler is larger than most of them (15,000 BTU IIRC) so I may slow the pump down with a pulse-width controller if the cooling is too aggressive. I could use a thermostat but I like simple and once this is dialed in it'll likely be a transparent system outside of filter maintenance.
3. I've been using synthetic hypoid since 1998,.. no synchro problems and I'm sure my R&P's are happier with the synthetic EP package. The added detergents will get more of the particulates into the filter as well.
4. I'd really like to install a complete squirter system in both boxes, and started this project with that in mind. but most of the advantages are gotten by simply filtering and cooling the sump load. I really do like the cooling effect of the squirters but don't think the added BTU removal would be worth the increased aeration that would reduce the efficiency of the external cooler. I like cooling fluid better than foam. It carries more heat and won't cavitate the pump.
5. I haven't seen the inside of the factory 915's with the housing pump to know where the pickup (and maybe a screen) is either. That certainly is an elegant solution and the boss in the casting (for that pump) just sits there and taunts me... yeah.
6. I have the power steering pump that came on the 3.6 and thought about that too. But I don't know the specs of the pump and thought that, since it's job is to make really high pressure at a low flow rate, that the volume might be too low. I was gonna run it from a pulley mounted between the inboard CV and the output flange.
But the electrics give me control over the pump speed and I may be able to do my lube changes by reversing the pump if I put in a T-fitting between the pump outlet and the check valve. I wouldn't be able to do that with a diaphragm pump and I want to change out the filter element and lube from above the car.
OT: To the strength of the 915 over the 914 boxes... I'm not near my machines but the mainshaft of the 915 is slightly larger than the 914 but that's not the main reason I like 'em. I'm running 7:31 R&P's in both and that's a very stressed pair of gears. The 915 ring gear has a bigger diameter than the 914 and the pinion is larger as well. So there is more meat at the mesh surfaces to take the load as well as a slightly longer lever arm to the diff-axis. That said the 915 is definitely heavier.
I'm going to do as much as I can to make the 915 shift as sweetly as the 914. Just wish they had Borg Warner synchros without the extra weight of a G-50... but that's off topic in this thread!
On my 2.7 I am using a sportomatic pump driven off the end of the right cam shaft. It sucks from the drain hole, then pumps through a spin on filter mounted to the side of the bell housing, into a manifold and from there lines go to spray the crownwheel and pinion, spray bar on the gear stack and pressure feed the input shaft bearing through the top of the intermediate plate. The car has a clutch type LSD.
The filter keeps the oil (Motul synthetic) really clean, and I recently cut the filter open after a few years compettion use and stretched out the paper. Very insructive, and not many big bits. The box runs at about 100C.
It was a lot of trouble to go to, buts its very reliable. If heat was just the issue I would just do the filter and cooler. Indeed, the filter is a must, when you see the crap it picks up.
Cheers,
When I added the pump and cooler setup to the race car years ago, I used a complete setup from Jim Patrick in Phoenix AZ and while costing a bit more than working a bunch to find the parts, everything was in the box and it took a weekend to do the install. The longest part is pulling the trans, opening it up and then drill/tap for the spray nozzles on top, then cleaning everything and putting it back together. We used Earl's braided hose, AN fittings and ran one from the regular atmospheric vent to the puke tank so there would not be an vapors escaping which happens when you have an extra quart of fluid (4 instead of 3). The pump is a gear or positive displacement unit and worked fine and saved my transmissions for sure! I used a spare drain plug and tapped it for the suction and the filter was in the pump suction line but we never found anything after many many races. Here is a pict. of how it is installed in the rear trunk.
Looks nice. Is the Tilton constant duty?
I talked to the Mocal people last week and apparently they've come out with a constant duty pump in this form-factor (dimensions are the same). It's not on their website yet but has been in development for the last 18 months. I'm in another state from my notes (no part number) but a call to them would be in order for anyone who wants a diaphragm pump. Sugg. retail $230. I couldn't get an idea of what they did to turn it into constant duty.
I also didn't like the idea of having to turn off the pump every two hours (Mocal recommendation) to cool down. I did like that the Tilton pumps have an internal check valve.
Continues to be a great thread! Keep posting people!
Most of the sprayers I saw installed had one nozzle right over top of the ring and pinion mesh position and at least one other right over the gear stack, better is to use two on the gear stack. As I mentioned, it is a very good idea to use a replacement for the case vent and run a line to the puke tank. This is because the trans will now need 4 quarts instead of 3 and on initial start off some will spatter out and even a few drops of Swepco really stinks and those corner workers will black flag you......
There were some posts years ago by a few "experts" who said never to spray the oil into the R/P mesh as it will cause the whole thing to seize but that has never been the case and all the vintage cars I raced with had a nozzle for this. The gear stack squirter(s) will also take care of the bearing that everyone worries about since it is such a loose and sloppy made bearing, having a dedicated oil supply servers little purpose. If it was a very tight and precision assembly, then yes it might.
The oil feed for the input shaft bearing is through a drilling in the intermediate plate which intersects with the groove in the outside of the bearing. I haven't chewed one out for a long time. I put that down to the oil feed, and more critically getting rid of the flipped gears out of the box with the attendant thrust reversal on selecting the flipped gear.
Well the R&P question pops up again as I suspected. In the 20+ years I worked in the Navy as a Nuclear machinist, I baby sat quite a few gear stacks, the largest was on the USS Enterprise (64,000 HP) and the smallest was on an old FRAM WW2 destroyer. Anyways, in all those cases the oil supply squirted right into the gear mesh and provided three basic things: shock absorbing ability, cooling and lubricating the metal surface. We want the same thing in these 40+ year old designed transmissions and the R&P is the weak point. When the oil come into the contact area, any excess is squeezed out the sides of the mesh and some sneaks into the clearance at the bottom of the teeth engagement area. In the 10 years I vintage raced, there were 4 or 5 R&P failures/seizes until all the high RPM 911s and 914s started running pump and cooler setups. This made a 901 last 3 and possibly 4 years with a 2L engine and 2 years with a 3.3L engine before a rebuild would be necessary. Funny thing about the failure was most times the car would be making a grinding noise and once back into the pits and cooled off, it would not move!!
Now there's some empirical data. John, what was the lash on those big R&P's and what was the diameter of the rings?
I just had my first R&P failure in the past 16 years and it was while I was pouring on the coals 120 miles from home. It acted strangely as well because up to 38 mph (GPS) it was completely quiet. Above that was very noisy. There were two broken pinion teeth adjacent to each other.
The regular noise variation told me the mesh area was moving as the speed went up, so perhaps the R&P got spread apart briefly by a broken tooth and the case got tweaked. When I put together another gear stack the diff carrier wouldn't preload with the same spacer/shim package.
I've cleaned up another case for the rebuild because although I don't see any cracks, Like you said John, I don't want to see this anymore, so the oiling system is required as far as I'm concerned. I'm convinced if I had one already this might not have happened.
Good question about the oiling of gear assemblies and it applies to both a ship's reduction gears and our transmissions. In our case we start out with the splash lubrication only and by adding the squirters we increase the "splash" of oil on the most important areas, namely the R&P and gears. A side benefit is the cooling and when I was racing, I found that when trans temps got over 240 or so that shifting would get harder and harder, even with Swepco oil. The cooler kept the temps below 210 even when racing in Tecate MX in August. The bearings we have are sloppy when compared to the ones in a Navy reduction gears and in those cases the oil is pressure fed to the bearing and also splashed on the mesh area so everything gets it's share of oil.
The clearances of the R&P can change due to the flex of the side plate and I remember seeing several transmissions that had an aftermarket one that was much stiffer but I am not sure if they are still available any longer?
Aftermarket (billet) side plates are available for the 915 but I don't remember seeing any for 914 boxes. I'm going to put on a late 915 side-plate on the early mag case diff section because it is truly stiffer with both extra webbing and made of aluminum instead of mag, but the early mag covers are just a slab.
I don't know if the billet side covers are worth the extra money for only 300hp and the associated torque. But I might want one when this engine gets tired and I tweak it a bit. I'm thinkin' 400 hp sounds nice "and will suffice" for at least an hour or two before I want more. I'm fortunate to have some extra cases (and stuff) lying about to build with so I can experiment... just need more time right?
Well, for various HP ratings, Black Forest in San Diego and their race mechanic and at two other shops used this rule of thumb:
100 to 140 HP just keep the bushings and parts tight.
140 to 220 HP use a cooler and you could get 2 years of racing if you were careful.
220 to 300 HP use a cooler and rebuild at the end of the year for sure or sooner. Note a 915 can be used but over an average of 10 years of racing the total cost is nearly the same.
300 HP and up use a Turbo transmission especially if over 350 HP with a lube system. The 914 Bonneville car that had 850 HP used a Turbo 4 speed and cooler setup and never had transmission issues although it kept spinning out when the NO2 was cut in at 185 MPH or so!
The location of the pump will make a difference. Gear drive pumps, like these: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm need a gravity feed- they won't "pull" oil if the pump is located above the lowest point of the oil feed. The tildon style can be mounted above the trans if needed.
I switched from the tildon style to the RB gear pump for the scavenge pump on the turbo 914. Don't know if the tildon was bad or not, but liked the idea of the smaller and more powerful gear drive to be SURE there was no oil backing up into the turbo, as with the low mount of the turbo, there is no roof for a sump.
Just something to think about in the trans application.
You are correct about the "gear" pump and they are all what we used to call positive displacement and as such as self priming. Some may have such loose clearances that they require priming to get started and they are done that way so they will not seize if the fluid is too cold or thick. One thing I found handy with the Tilton installed in the trunk was to empty the transmission I could disconnect the line at the outlet of the pump, run it through a line to a clean container. We would then filter the trans fluid and once the transmission was back in the car, use a suction line from the container through the filter back into the transmission. NO spills, puddles, etc and very handy.
In the pictures I posted there is a bright red filter near the pump and it is a disk type that can be disassembled and cleaned as needed such as when a trans fails. That is the way Patrick set it up and the continuous filter may help prolong the internals life. One thing we did do was to look at the fluid with a very bright light for any microscopic "gold" which was an indication of a possible bearing failure.
I generally changed transmissions a couple times a year, short gear box (K-Q-V)for PIR, Button Willow and all the Mexico road races and long box (M-S-X) for Willow Springs and CA Speedway. This gave me a chance to check the fluid quite a lot.
I thought I'd follow up with a summary of the approximate cooling system costs. This assumes you don't have any of this stuff lying about and that , instead of a diaphragm pump, you choose a mid-range gear pump with a catch can etc.
Pricing for hose fittings from Racer Wholesale Parts:
1. Cooler $ 90
2. Fan $ 70
3. Pump $275
4. Filter $ 75
5. Chk valve (1.2lb) $ 40
6. Fittings (-8AN) $308 (mandrel-bent except the vent system)
7. Hose (-8) $ 70
8. Catch can $ 70 (unless you make your own... I did)
9. Controller $ 30
Roughed out it'll be: $ 1,028
Someone out there is going to do this. For some reason I just can't get any new system into Penelope without spending $1,000.
Did you give Patrick in Phoenix a call although the price may be higher now as I did mine a long time ago. I would imagine that the cost is 25% or more higher now now matter where you buy the stuff.
You can do some saving by installing in sections, I.E. pump, lines and nozzles first. The do the filter and cooler and it's ducting. Not sure what the "controller" is as I just wired mine to a switch and once I started rolling turned it on. I had a big blue light over it so I would see it and it was powered to run even if the engine was off. The pump can easily handle the cold Swepco so no worries. For a fan I used a small plastic housed axial boat bilge vent fan I bought at West Marine and they sell them on line. I ran when the pump did. Make sure to have a drain on the puke tank and some sort of filtered vent as race organizations want that type of setup. Remember you'll be running 4 qts of fluid instead of 3 so some will splash into the puke tank. Finally I don't think a check valve is needed as it all drains into the trans anyways so that will save a bit of $$$$ too.
But I have to say that after the setup, I never had a trans failure so it was worth it I think!
I didn't give Patrick a call because I already have a lot of this stuff around now that I've been stockpiling over the last year or so. I'll just have to buy a little more hose, some more hose fittings and a few adapters. Then fab up the catch can and fittings for that circuit.
The controller is a pulse-width unit. Simple, reliable, and I don't have to throw off as much heat as a rheostat would. I figured I'd wire it in so that if I get too much cooling (return oil <160F) I can simply slow down the pump speed rather than break open the cooler ducting to blank-off some of it. If I always run the pump at full-bore I'll install a switch and use the controller for something else, like pushing the cockpit heat from my front oil cooler in the winter time. I use a 4 in bilge fan on my front heater system too. Good value that.
I am going to install the pump motor in moving air as it doesn't have it's own fan. Whether that turns out to be in the wheel well or upstream of the cooler fan housing I don't know yet. The specs on the pump read that it's top operating temp should be 150F.
Since the oil going through it will be hotter than that, there will be heat conducted from the pump housing into at least the output bearing and the lower half of the motor. Maybe that's overkill but I'm starting with a clean slate so it's easy to avoid that potential problem.
The reason for the valve was to avoid letting the pump lose it's prime. Even though it's self priming it makes me feel better. As to the extra oil, I thought it would be a potential leakage problem (i.e. output flange seals) if a lot of oil went back into the case.
Generally those pumps can handle the gear oil temps we have with no issues. The extra quart of oil will not cause any leaks unless the input shaft seal is worn a lot and/or you park on a very steep downhill grade all the time. I never experienced any leaks or weeps during the years the system was installed. I would not worry about getting the temp too low unless you are racing in snow as the exhaust will keep everything back there toasty warm!
Patrick does sell a couple of handy transmission related items, one is an aluminum adapter that replaces the speedo drive and has a VDO sender matched to a temp guage. Another is an hi temp reversing wheel for the clutch cable which will never get soft or wear out. I used both items and they were very handy. I did have one of the factory wheels get smoochy in a race in Mexico and the cable came off and scared the hell out me as I thought I'd broke a trans or clutch!
The temp setup Patrick sells uses the speedo hole. It seems the case transfers the heat pretty well and I have seen temps get to close to 300 degrees and that is when you have to be very careful with shifting as it gets harder.
I'm planning on installing a trans cooler in my 1.8L race car if I ever resume racing at the National level.
I have no empirical data on which to base my decision - only experience.
What I do know is that shifting becomes more difficult the longer I'm on track.
To me, the most logical cause is transmission temperature.
I'm with Chris on this.
Porsche's syncro system of brake bands would seem particularly sensitive to the lube thinning out. The brake band/slider is basically metal to metal less the oil film.
I've seen several brake bands worn flat on the outside.....slider & dog teeth don't live long under these circumstances. Normal wear becomes catastrophic. There would seem to be an ideal temperature range for these bits to work against each other. I also think that heat expansion has little effect on shifting, but gear to gear may be another story......then the different rates of expansion between the Mag case & the steel gears/shafts may well come into play. Of course, when the oil thins, the gears come closer together (less oil film) generating more heat, then I can see the thing cascade on you. Get the sumbitch hot enough and you have no film.......the ring & pinion begin shedding metal and loose their finish surface....more heat....well, you get the idea....
I've torn down a couple trans that had reached the metal shedding point on the R & P......into the recycle bin with those. The pinion shafts were heat discolored about 1/4 of the way up the shaft. Since those trans were from low powered cars, I think they were run out of lube.....thus the neglect.
For the temps question, I found with my trans temp gauge that until temps got to about 140 to 150 the trans seemed to be sluggish but then it was setup with tight clearances and ran a limited slip. Once temps got to over 275 or so the shifting got bulky and you had to shift slowly and very deliberate. This only happened at the street circuit races in Mexico where the straights were short and there was not enough time for some cooling and that is why I added an axial fan in the ducting line with a water mister from JC Whitney and Co that was actually meant to be an add on windshield washer reservoir and pump. The pump went to a garden mister and was switched with the fan and would drop trans temps by about 20 degrees when running which helped. The little bit of water lasted about 15 minutes which was sufficient for a sprint race. I was too old to do any of those enduros!!! The type of limited slip did not seem to make a difference as I used both a Guard and a "Q" which are different designs I think? I also had a pretty good shift setup with one of James' first Rennshifts and an aerospace coupler in place of the middle flex coupler.
It is the high RPM that gets the parts, especially the racing with high RPM motors and the revving with each shift, especially with engines that routinely rev to 8,000 RPM like my 2L six did. When I moved to a 2.8L six later on, the temps dropped slightly but only a little as the engine rarely went over 7,000 RPM. The HSR, VARA, HSR-West and other Porsche 2L class cars that bilders like Wayne Baker, Frank Beck and Jim Patriack on the west coast started using the pump and cooler setups after the 1st year and several transmission failures.Hope these ideas help some what?
The simplest plumb... in, out, and a vent to the catch can.
Finally time for an update. I forced myself off of the road because two weeks of consecutive 100+ temperatures reminded me that I hadn't installed this cooling system into the car. Attached are photos of the installation. I'm running the wire for the temperature sending unit after lunch today but everything works with no leaks.
Total system capacity worked out to be 3.75 quarts.
I have a 7in. Spal fan in the engine lid above the pump to help move more air into that side of the engine compartment. If the cooler can't move enough heat out of the fluid in the right rear fender well, I'll cut a hole into the engine compartment next to the cooler and force air out over the cooler. But I suspect the cooler will shed enough heat for me not to worry about it... unless it starts to bake my paint!
More below...
The engine compartment plumbed and the temperature sending unit installed into my speedometer block-off plug.
Thanks for sharing. Great looking set up
Chris,
my race trans builder switched me over to heavier lube about 4 years ago...
I know I know everyone says not synthetic
I've been using them for 20 years though..
so we went from the mobil 1 75-90
over to the mobil 1 90-140
brant
Thanks, I've done all I can to make sure it stands the test of time and vibration. I really hate rework due to poor engineering. So, the interim report.
After roughly 1000 miles of both spirited twisty Arkansas roads and 70 mph highway driving. I mean it... I never exceed the speed limit. Track report when I can get to one.
Temperature: average 150F - 170F (synthetic)
Pukeage: I expected some but it's as dry as a bone
Pump volume: ~ 2.5 gpm
Observation:
1. Works better than expected. Frankly, I'd rather it ran a little hotter.
2. Changing the fluid is a breeze.
I may relocate, or add another sending unit closer to the R&P/gear stack to test whether the box is hotter up there than at the back of the transaxle. I won't do this immediately... too many other things to do. But I'll update again with the temp-delta if there is one.
Note: About the sending unit.
To have one less place to leak fluid, I drilled the hole for the sending unit dry, so it doesn't contact the trans fluid directly. Then filled it with salt water as the sending unit was screwed in.
I am planning to do something similar. Been taking forever to get the time to do it, but finally got started last weekend.
I like the simple approach like this. My only concern is still when to have the pump turn on. manual is fine, as long as I remember to turn it on.... Some guys have told me that since the engine needs a warm up period anyway, just wait until the engine is warm, then flip the switch for the cooler pump when you head tot he track. While in THEORY that works, I just don't want to forget and end up overheating when I have a cooler installed but not running...
hmmm....
This geared pump has no trouble at all pumping even cold fluid at more than 2 gpm so turning it on at the beginning of a run isn't a problem. As well, since it's a constant duty pump it won't matter how long it's on. That was a perk over the intermittent duty diaphragm pumps.
I considered installing a thermostat but I like simple systems.
One thing I am going to do is replace the 90 degree AN fitting on the pump outlet to a 180. It'll then run toward the right sidewall and be easier to batten down. The more I looked at this installation the more I didn't like a hose just going out into the engine compartment subject to vibration.
Guys,
For those using the Tilton pump, how noisy is it? We turned it on to test and it's REALLY loud. Not as loud as the engine, but loud enough to sound like there's something wrong with it.
I thought it was the mounting, but even holding it still against the rubber mounts doesn't change anything. I even thought that once it primed it would quiet down, nope. It's working fine, pumps the oil ver well, but just really loud.
thoughts??
Ok, since I haven't seen an answer to this noisy-pump issue....
Considering how loud even rotary pumps are in a car with most or all of the sound deadening removed, I'd bet the pump is just fine. Every one of the diaphragm pumps I've used (some in fuel applications) is the same way.
I'd run it and listen for anything that changes. If I'm right about that car's usage you aren't running it more than two hours at a time, which is the Tilton time limit they state as the outside (per a Tilton vendor I talked to while deciding on a pump). On that point.
If anyone can point to documentation about that I'd like to actually see it in writing. Preferably tied to operating-temperature limits.
Have you learned anything different?
I hadn't heard that the Tilton had a 2 hour duty limit. Shouldn't be a problem, but I found that I HAVE to run the pump now...it seems that the trans fluid is bubbling up through the vent and into the trunk area (where my vent goes to) if I don't run the pump...
You technically overfill the transmission with fluid so you can fill the pump, lines and cooler...which all drain back into the case when not running. I'll probably move to Swepco or something synthetic once I know everything is working right...still dealing with an issue in the trans and had to take the engine out because of a BIG oil leak...
I finished my complete install and will be testing it (with a gauge) at coronado this weekend...
an experienced porsche race shop recommended running the pump at all times to the ignition switch for exactly the reasons you describe.
the trans is overfilled and only by running the pump does it drop down to the correct fluid level.
Double post deleted...
I added pictures of my finished cooler install into my build thread
I put a gauge in and ducting so we will soon know what its doing
looking forward to arriving at coronado Island tomorrow and testing it out.......
my last tranny died after 25 hours so it was time to try something
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=19706&st=520
Nice build Brant. Specs on that pump from your pix. SHURflow 8000-543-936.
http://www.hypropumps.com/FileAttachments/Spray/en-us/Literature/Catalogs/HYP01-SHURfloPumps.pdf
Hey, Ron. What was the part number of the pump you got from RB Racing, I'm gonna go with their pump. They seem to know their shit. I like the way they talk on their website, right up my street.
Cheers
Moggy
things went really well
I did not play with different ducting/routing.
I was at sea level so it should have been cooling as well as possible with the current set up.
I ran 20degrees cooler than motor oil every time
the highest I saw all weekend was 230 degrees oil and 210 trans.
but I did not move the duct to see what improvement was to be had.
One thing I did decide, is that I must have been much hotter at altitude, with 2 drivers, and a 30degree higher ambiant temp.
I can only guess that I must have been 250-270...ish on the day I blew the trans in July.
brant
Hi, great thread. I am gathering the pieces now for my cooler install. I am still on the fence about using squirters/spraybar or just dumping the oil from the cooler into the differential end of the trans. I will use the drain plug as my pickup. What are you guys using for a spraybar/nozzels? I was thinking nozzles from a pressure washer might work. They seem to come in a variety of different spray patterns. Honestly i really have know idea what to use or how many. Anybody have any photos of your spraybar/nozzles? If there is another thread covering this please forgive me.
Thank you for the photos. What I am really after are pictures of the spray bar inside the trans....Right now my car is my daily driver with a 1.8L/4. I live in the Socal desert so my car sees daily high speed and high revs in crazy hi ambient temps. I am building a spare 901 right now. And after finding out the incredible prices for bearings, syncros, sliders, and dog teeth I have no problem spending an extra 700 bucks for a cooling system. I want this gearbox to live as long as possible. The plan is to go to a six cylinder in the near future.
Anyways. After doing some research there are a few areas I need to try to get the cool gear oil to. That would be the 4/5 syncros and the main shaft bearings.
I agree with Moogy.
limited slip differentials create heat
especially when the car is ran as hard as possible.
On track the engine is wound between 6000-7000rpm for 30 minutes straight and shifting 20times every 2 miles. The tranny is constantly under accelation load. There is no highway "cruising" going on
I wouldn't bother on the street
you are only adding weight at that point. Weight in the worse place (the rear) and weight that does nothing advantageous.
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