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Posted by: Woody Nov 6 2012, 06:06 PM

Im currently running the 205s and 225s Hankook Z214 AX tires. Even in the middle of the Texas summers they never overheated if I kept the pressures under 24 psi hot. Im wondering if running 225/45/15 front and 275/35/15 rear Hoosier A6s would be more of a detriment because the car is so light or should I just stick with the current size. I do have room for them under the fenders. The car is still an angry 2056 but will hopefully get a bump to 2270 or 2316 this winter. Thoughts?

Posted by: Trekkor Nov 6 2012, 08:45 PM

I love the feel and handling of my car with the wide tires.
This after running 205's front and rear for many years.

Car has good balance.





KT

Posted by: Woody Nov 6 2012, 08:56 PM

What are you running up front? I'm kind of limited running SSM.

Posted by: Trekkor Nov 6 2012, 10:07 PM

13x8. they spec out to 215-225's ( Goodyear radial slicks )


KT

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 7 2012, 08:27 AM

Once you go to A6s you'll not be satisfied with anything.....ah...less expensive.
You'll find that they are only *good* for 50 passes....or less, however.

I went to Rspec (Kumho Victor racers) about 10-12 years back. After that, all I wanted was more.......

If you want to punish your wallet to go fast, the A6s are a good way to do it.
The punishment is not being able to match your times with lesser tires.
The difference will be 1.5-2 sec better than your present tires on a 50 sec course.....once you learn how to set up for em'/drive em'.

Going fast at AX is not cheep.

Posted by: Woody Nov 7 2012, 08:52 AM

So ya'll think I should run the 275s?

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 7 2012, 10:55 AM

Sure, particularly if you plan to add HP. The CSP Miata guys have 150 hp or so and run a square set-up.,,,,,because thay can. The front end of a 914 won't allow wide enuff wheels for em'. 225 up front is gud.

Posted by: Randal Nov 7 2012, 10:40 PM

Suggest you run the numbers, i.e., determine the weight balance between the front and the rear, then select different tire sizes for the front and apply the f/r ratio to the back wheels. That way you have every inch of tire with the same weight.

Posted by: campbellcj Nov 8 2012, 12:13 AM

I've gone from 205's square to 225 front & 245 rear, but unfortunately I have not driven the car yet with the new setup. Originally I wanted to go as big as 275 in back but the flares I got will not allow it. I do have enough room up front to run 245 square if that makes more sense than staggered sizes. It'll take some experimentation I think.

Posted by: campbellcj Nov 8 2012, 12:13 AM

.

Posted by: Woody Nov 8 2012, 06:57 AM

I would have the same stagger if I run 225s up front. The current setup has the 225s an inch wider than the 205s up front. The 275s are only an inch wider than the 225s. So I shouldnt be changing the balance. The car corner balances if I remember correctly 45% front and 55% rear or pretty close to that. I wish Hoosier made a 245 DOT tire in a 15 inch rim cause that would be a no brainer and I could run it with my current wheels.

Posted by: koozy Nov 9 2012, 09:44 AM

275/35/15 Hoosier A6s will fit just fine both in front and in the rear if your car has standard GT flares. Measure the backspace carefully and you can get there.

The only issue I found was lowering the car too much made it rub in the spot pictured below. Awfully expensive rubber to be wasting on yer fender wells instead of the pavement where it makes sense. The arrows shows the spot that will ruin your day. The ridge of metal that protrudes in that spot can be taken down but if the tire hits it, it makes lunch of the rubber super quick. The rest wasn't as bad as it looks.

Posted by: Woody Nov 9 2012, 11:11 AM

Do you have any pics with the 275s up front? I would have to go up to 22mm torsion bars or go up in swaybar size to run a square setup.

Posted by: koozy Nov 9 2012, 12:03 PM

Sure

Posted by: Trekkor Nov 9 2012, 12:30 PM

I'll be experimenting with 9" tires in front and 10" in the rear next weekend.


KT

Posted by: Woody Nov 9 2012, 12:35 PM

I look forward to the results.

Posted by: Woody Nov 12 2012, 07:11 AM

Finished up my Hankooks yesterday. Will order the new shoes next month.

Posted by: Woody Nov 27 2012, 01:55 PM

Wheels came in today. These are 15x10 Etoile. I'll run the 15x8 BBS wheels up front till I can afford a matching set. I'll take these apart, polish the barrels, and paint the centers black. Should look good.

Posted by: Randal Nov 27 2012, 02:14 PM

Looks like 3" outers and 7" inners. The 7" inners should give you 6" of backspace, i.e., the perfect amount.

They should end up being right next to the body, or say within 1/4" to 3/8" of the body That is assuming the tire side is straight up and down. I know with the Avon slicks that is the perfect inner.....

Posted by: Woody Nov 27 2012, 02:18 PM

If I have time tonight I'm going to mount one up and see. I have 4 5mm and 4 25mm spacers. The center shows a 25mm backspace. Do I need to replace the bolts if I take em apart?

Posted by: Woody Nov 27 2012, 02:21 PM

Yes Randall you are correct. The outers are 3" and the inners are 7". I'm excited.

Posted by: Randal Nov 27 2012, 07:22 PM

New tires are pretty special, especially when properly ratio'ed for the car. Can't wait to try mine on New Years Day.

Posted by: Trekkor Nov 27 2012, 08:04 PM

My 10" rims have a 4.75" back space.
Any more than that and the tire will hit the inner fender well.

Mine are set up for use without spacers.

Front 8" rims use a 4" back space.


KT

Posted by: Woody Nov 27 2012, 09:13 PM

Not going to have time tonight to test fit em. its going to have to wait till tomorrow.

Posted by: Woody Nov 29 2012, 04:44 PM

Test fit the wheels last night. They're going to need a 10mm spacer. Maybe a 15mm. I'll know for sure when I get the tires.

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 29 2012, 08:56 PM

I had around 3/4 inch clearance between the tire and the inner rear fender.....most of the time.

Posted by: Woody Nov 30 2012, 07:08 AM

I wonder how much tire and suspension flex will be going on. Maybe I should order some 15mm spacers just in case.

Posted by: J P Stein Nov 30 2012, 08:47 AM

A bunch, see pic....note outside rear tire.
I had around 5 inches of backspace on the rear wheels, no spacers.
You'll also need longer wheel studs/bolts.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Woody Nov 30 2012, 08:54 AM

When I did the 5 bolt conversion I went with 100mm studs. I could run 3" of spacer if I wanted.

Posted by: koozy Nov 30 2012, 09:37 AM

Nice lookin yellow car there, sir. I hear they are faster when using all 4 tires.

Posted by: Randal Nov 30 2012, 10:09 AM

I'm surprised that you need almost .40" of spacer. My 6"ers inners left me with over an inch of space between the tire and the inner fender. Maybe the offset on the Etoile inner is different than the Gotti....going to have to measure mine tonight.

I have been planning to go with a 7" inner to get my wheels/tires closer to the inner fender, but I'm going to try them first. Maybe the tire flex will take up that 1" of space that I have.

Posted by: Woody Nov 30 2012, 10:19 AM

The centers are ET 25. I mounted them with a 5mm spacer and they barely touched the inner fender. I should probably take a real measurement and we can compare.

Posted by: koozy Nov 30 2012, 10:23 AM

With 5 inches of backspace, using my Gotti wheels, I have about a quarter inch between the inner fender and the tire.

Posted by: ConeDodger Nov 30 2012, 11:44 AM

Brace your suspension ears and watch for cracks between events.

I've seen that happen a few times. Here is a stolen pic from Eric Shea's build. Those two hanging things go to the firewall. (Not for you Woodster, or any of the guys in this thread. Just wanted to present a graphic for anyone who might come along and be reading this)


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Woody Nov 30 2012, 01:28 PM

I seriously need to do some bracing this winter.

Posted by: Trekkor Nov 30 2012, 02:45 PM

The sidewalls will flex and move around in the fenderwell.
What appears to have clearance while standing still, may very well make hard contact with the inner or outer.




KT

Posted by: Randal Dec 1 2012, 01:12 AM

When you start running slicks I think it's time to reinforce/brace the ears along with adding some substantial edge welding or whatever to make the ears themselves stronger. Then of course buy a set of Cris Foley reinforced trailing arms.

I'd like to say I figured that out before I cracked one of my ears, but like everyone else learned the hard way.

JP did know what to do and build his car right right from the start

Posted by: Woody Dec 1 2012, 11:15 AM

Well looks like they have 6 1/4 of backspace. I think the 15mm spacers will do fine.

Posted by: Randal Dec 1 2012, 11:48 AM

Now that makes sense. My 6" inner barrels have 5" (and a bit) of backspace.

Posted by: Woody Dec 12 2012, 04:43 PM

Ran last weekend on some 888s. Car was terrible. Completely wrong setup for them. Back end was all over the place. Definitely gonna need more swaybar if I intend to run the 888s at the track. Ordered the A6s today.

This was the 888s with 20psi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VebOnLkZT3c&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Posted by: Trekkor Dec 12 2012, 11:40 PM

I have never heard of anyone running 888's at 20psi.

Did you you try them at 35psi as well?


KT

Posted by: Woody Dec 13 2012, 06:23 AM

I started at 30 and it was worse. Hardly touched the arrows at 22 so I went down to 20. It was better but still not where it needed to be.

Posted by: Woody Dec 19 2012, 08:50 AM

Last years tires compared to this years.





Wheels came out nice.

Posted by: Woody Jan 26 2013, 08:26 PM

First run of the year tomorrow. Hopefully the new setup works and doesn't rub. It's tight.

Posted by: Woody Jan 26 2013, 08:30 PM

Posted by: J P Stein Jan 27 2013, 09:53 AM

You're at the point. NOW. where a mod to the rear ears for extra strength is needed.
In certain areas more strength than you "think" you need is a good thing.....and them ears are one such. The goal here is 0 movement in all directions.... no depending on "pre-loads" or any other BS....no bracing to panels that may themselves move. It's a tough goal in a tough location but here is my best shot.

The inner ear half was replaced with 3/16 steel plate ( this gets a bit tricky). A lot of 1/8" plate scabbed to the upper portion. In my book, failure is not an option.

BTW, 9 inch wide front wheels may work...I never tried. 10s won't. You get into a "scrub radius push" in the tight stuff which is incurable. I wasted a whole season trying to cure it.


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Posted by: Randal Jan 27 2013, 01:39 PM

Very nice and you will enjoy the extra tire. Car looks good.

After you do tire temps, don't be surprised if you get very little heat in the fronts. IMHO, and that the the Avon engineers, you might need to run a narrower tire in the front.

Posted by: Woody Jan 27 2013, 06:00 PM

JP thanks for the advice. I intended to do some very similar bracing last weekend but life got in the way. It will be done before my next event. I like how you braced to the framerail instead of going to the firewall. The fronts are on 15x8s with a 20mm spacer and turn in was excellent, no noticeable understeer.

Randall the tires never got really warm. They were around 90 on the infrared but I was in the first run group and it was still a little cool out. The car is a completely different animal than last year. The Hoosiers are an inch and a half wider on each corner and blow last years Hankooks away. The setup with the Hankooks was spot on for the A6s. Didn't change a thing. I was very pleased with how it ran and nothing rubbed.

This was my fastest run today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPTDnCa_KSw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Posted by: stuttgart46 Jan 28 2013, 07:25 AM

Your car looks great Woody.
Hopefully I'll see you at the track soon.

Posted by: Woody Jan 28 2013, 10:11 AM

Thanks buddy. That would be fun.

Posted by: Woody Jan 28 2013, 10:11 AM

Posted by: Randal Jan 29 2013, 02:45 PM

That was what at 35 second run? Not much time to get heat in the tires.

When you get a warmer day and PM run group, measure the tire temps (outside, middle and inside) on each tire and let us know what you find. Usually the backs are much hotter, by tens of degrees, than the front, so you'll we wondering how to get more heat into the fronts. Especially if you are experiencing understeer, i.e., the front washing out.

One solution is to reduce the tire width in the front so that the heat secured is distributed over a smaller area all in the name of the most critical thing, i.e., figuring out at what operating temperature your tires get sticky and start providing more than just mechanical grip. If you are not to the "sticky" stage then you're not getting the most grip for your tires.

That's why it's so much fun to run the Medford enduro. You are guaranteed to get a "sticky" tire as opposed to mechanical grip tire t some point over the +/- 3:50 minute course. When it happens you feel the grip and can increase your speed around corners.

BTW, finding the understeer point in your car might take some pushing as you've set it up right, i.e., it's well balanced.

IMHO the objective in autoxing is to get all tires to the sticky point so your grip is more than just mechanical. If you haven't been there, when it does happens it'll be an eye opener.

Posted by: Woody Jan 29 2013, 03:30 PM

Usually our courses are 40 - 60 seconds. We had a large turnout, 127 drivers, so they ran a short course. I'm sure the tires will get plenty warmed up in the next few months. By March we will be seeing mid 80 degree temps if not hotter. 3:50 minute course? Wow, wish we had something like that down here. Here's a pic going into a sweeper slowing down from around 55 - 60mph to around 40.

Posted by: Randal Jan 30 2013, 02:25 PM

Also think your spring rates are good, as the car looks balanced as your entering that corner.

Guessing the course went off to the left, but there isn't another cone in that picture. Was that picture taken on the same course for the video you posted?

Posted by: Woody Jan 30 2013, 06:08 PM

Yes same course. That is the entry into the first left hand sweeper and there is a cone on the other side of the car. The setup feels great but I'm maxed out on the front 19mm swaybar. I am thinking about going up a size on the torsion bars to 22mm so I can ease off the swaybar A bit and gain some adjustability.

Posted by: Randal Jan 30 2013, 07:33 PM

The adjustable ones are great. I've got one from Smart Racing that allows for about 6 or 8 settings. You change the tortion bar between either side and secure a bunch more adjustability in a number of ranges. For autoxing I have the lightest bar, adjustable from 60 to 110lbs if I remember correctly.

Posted by: Woody Jan 30 2013, 10:00 PM

I think you may have misunderstood me. I currently am running a 19mm weltmeister swaybar on its stiffest setting. My torsion bars are 21mm. I am contemplating going up in torsion bar size to 22 mm so I can loosen the swaybar off the full stiff setting. The car drives great as it is but I don't like being maxed out on the swaybar. A smart bar would be nice but I thought they closed up shop.

Posted by: Randal Jan 31 2013, 12:22 AM

Mine looks like this one:



Smart Racing offered 4 different bars, like 21/22/23 or 24mm for the set up. Must be somewhat like what weltmeister offers? I had the opposite problem of you, i.e., my original bar was like 23mm and I had it on it lowest setting and that wasn't soft enough, so went with the 22mm and it works perfectly and allows for adjustability.

Posted by: Woody Jan 31 2013, 07:19 AM

The weltmeister is similar just nowhere near as nice as the smart bar. I wonder if someone will start making them again. Chris's setup looks well made. http://tangerineracing.com/suspension.htm#Heavy%20Duty%20Anti-Roll%20Bar

Posted by: Randal Jan 31 2013, 10:16 AM

These guys <http://www.imgt3performance.com/smart-racing-performance-products/> look to be making, or selling, the Smart Racing products for 911's. Maybe they can still do the 914 version?

On the other hand everything that Chris Foley makes is ace. I have his stuff everywhere on my car and have been really pleased with everything I bought from him. Also he's a great person to deal with, would have my vote for Vendor of the Year, if there was such a prize.

BTW Woody, PM me your email address and I'll send you a video of a practice session at Medford.

Posted by: J P Stein Jan 31 2013, 10:19 AM

Your vid shows a lack of "tight stuff".....not that there's any thing wrong with that.

Suspension:
I'm of the "as soft as possible" school of thought. Spring rate for T bars is not adjustable. Any rate increase in front has to be balanced by an up-rate in the rear for balance..... also you run the risk of over powering your shocks. An up grade in sway bar makes a lot more sense. Mine was a hollow Tarret with an effective rate of 22mm.....half hard setting.

Either way, you need to make sure your shocks are effectively dampening your suspension movement....with soft rebound to keep the tires in contact with the ground....you don't want to "pump down". That said, your venue looks pretty smooth.....and open. There is nothing wrong with setting up for your "home". Mine was *really* rough but my soft set up *worked* everywhere....but was less than ideal on a smooth surface. Good enuff to do in the Marina bunch if a bit floppy.


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Posted by: Woody Jan 31 2013, 11:17 AM

This course only had one real tight spot and that was the right hand half Chicago box type thing. I've always had problems with Chicago boxes up until now. Usually the car would understeer but I didn't see that on this particular course. The venue we use is very smooth, just dusty. So you think 22mm torsion bars would be too much?

Posted by: J P Stein Jan 31 2013, 01:58 PM

Dunno, never BTDT.

IF I ran full time at your venue I would *guess* not, but those alone will cause all sorts of difficulties........*BALANCE* means all parts of the suspension working in concert to make he car do do what you want under all circumstances.....easy to say but nearly impossible to attain....but you want to come as close as you can.

The beating the car takes with stiff suspenders is another facet to take into consideration........and since the chassis is a flexi flier more strengthening there is needed. The chassis is not strong enough to force the suspension to do its job now and you want to stiffen suspension ? Ya don't want to get the cart in front of the horse......

When I stiffened the chassis ( tubes to the towers), it was a revelation....probably the single best move I made.....that was 6-7 years into the build and I kicked my own ass for not doing it sooner.

Posted by: Randal Jan 31 2013, 02:32 PM

+1 on that modification and JP vision.

It was as dramatic as going from 205 hoosiers to 9 inch Canti slicks.

Posted by: bfrymire Feb 3 2013, 03:21 PM

This thread came about the right time for me. I am in need of new tires and thought it might be a good time to do the same, jump to 275 tires.

What rim should I look for? I have some old Cup rims that are 17x9.

What is the best offset to use? Or better how to measure? I can drop a rule from the edge of the rim to the bolt flange. I found online, Et47, ET55 and ET70.

I love the Etoile rims, but where to get them?

Sorry for the hijack, but this seems to be the best thread to put this.

-- brett

Found this: http://www.gbsalpine.com/wheel/gotti/eng/j55a.html

Posted by: Woody Feb 4 2013, 09:13 PM

Brett, I'm running 15x10s on the rear with the 275/35/15 A6s. I ended up using 22mm of spacer with the glass fenders trimmed way down. The wheels show 6 1/4 inches from the mounting surface to the inner lip.

Posted by: Randal Feb 5 2013, 12:24 AM

Etoile and Gotti are basicly the same, the only difference being the centers. Of course there are 16 and 32 bolt barrels, however, 16 bolt barrels can be changed into 32 bolt barrels easily (but carefully). If you want to know how let me know.

You measure the backspacing from the back of the center section to the outside of the inner rim.

Where to get them? Look around the web and all the car sites. You can buy them from Alpine, brand new, but very very expensive.

I've got some spare parts (barrels/centers), but it all depends on what size you need.

There are several good postings on Gotti wheels on this site (paddock section).

Posted by: Woody Feb 26 2013, 03:23 PM

Couple of pics with the 225/275 setup. Car feels great.

Posted by: Woody Feb 26 2013, 03:25 PM

Posted by: Woody Mar 3 2013, 05:53 PM

My fastest run today. Car is really coming together. The A6s are addicting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgtmY6OTCy0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 20 2013, 12:53 AM

Woody,

sorry for the hijack...

what is a fair price to pay for those kind of rims? There is a set for sale on pelican.

asking $1200 for 15x8,11.

-- brett

Posted by: Woody Mar 21 2013, 06:34 AM

I would think that's a reasonable price depending on condition but Randal is the expert on the Gotti wheels. Maybe he'll chime in. My 10s are very tight under my flares. 11s wont fit unless I go with bigger flares. Also, make sure you can find tires that will work on those. My 275s are perfect on the 10" wheels, an 11" wheel would be stretching it a little bit.

Posted by: Randal Mar 21 2013, 02:09 PM

There is another dimension you need to think about, i.e., other than overall width when buying three piece wheels.

As background, there is an outer barrel and an inner barrel. Make sure you find out the exact configuration of the wheel as it can make a huge difference. I found this out the hard why when I put together 3" (outer) and 8" (inner) barrels to make a 11 wide wheel. The problem was the offset on the 8" inner barrel was way to much.

Best situation is what I have on the back now. 4" outers and 7" inners. The offset comes out to less than 6 inches, so I can run without spacers. Why isn't the 7" offset matching the size of the barrel, because the center mounts with most of it within the 7" inner barrel, so the net ends up being less than 6 inches.

And make sure the bolt pattern, i.e., 5 x 130 is the one your buying. If your running 4 bolt wheels I don't now the exact dimension, but someone on here will.

Posted by: Woody Mar 21 2013, 03:05 PM

4x130 I believe.

Posted by: Randal Mar 21 2013, 03:40 PM

If they are really clean and don't require the outside barrels to be polished, then $1,200 is OK, abet a bit pricey.

Are you looking for looks plus functionality or just functionality?

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 21 2013, 06:21 PM

Go not show. :-)

This is for an autocross car. They just need to be straight and round.

I have one person looking for me,but I am open to ideas.

thanks guys.

--brett


--brett

Posted by: Randal Mar 21 2013, 06:56 PM

Diamond racing wheels or realwheel have good stuff at very reasonable prices.

http://www.realwheel.net/products.php?catid=20

Realwwheel has some light weight stuff as well.

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 22 2013, 10:50 PM

I checked it out. I would like to find 16x8 and 16x9 in 5x130 bolt pattern as I think that would be ideal for my setup and tire selection. THe site you mention does have light rims and at a good price, but they are only 15's.

Still looking.

-- brett

Posted by: Randal Mar 22 2013, 11:20 PM

Before you buy 16"s remember that 15"ers work great for Autoxing as they spin up faster, get more torque to the ground coming out of corners and typically have less unsprung weight, i.e., a 16" wheel will typically be heaver than a 15".

On the other hand when I was looking for 15" Gotti parts, all I could find was 16" wheels.

I have personally seen various folks go to big wheels on 914's only to switch back to 15s.

We even have two guys who have converted to 13" wheels and tires and they love that setup for autoxing. Also the race tires are CHEAPER.

You running a 6 or a 4?

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 22 2013, 11:28 PM

I originally had 17's and dropped to the 16s. The problem is the tire I am running in the front are not available in 15s.

And I am running a 2.7l six. By the way, I think we met at a DeAnza AX about 3 or 4 years ago.

-- brett

Posted by: Randal Mar 23 2013, 08:47 AM

Hey Brett - was that the day at DeAnza when I blew my front cooler oil line and left oil all over the parking lot? Very embarassing.

So what size tires (and compound) are you running in the front? If you're primarily doing autox there are tons of 15's available, but some of them are very expensive, like the Avons. On the other hand once you put them on you'll be wondering why you didn't earlier.

We had a 2.7 (Matt Lowrence motor) in The Beast - so nice. If you ever run your car at Laguna, the sound, going up from 5 through 6, is something you will never forget.

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 23 2013, 07:27 PM

I think that was the time.

I am currently using 245/16 Hoosier A6 tires in the front and rear on 16x8 rims. the problem is, the rears are doing all the work and run about 15 degrees hotter than the front. It's too easy now to steer with the throttle.

-- brett

Posted by: Randal Mar 24 2013, 12:21 AM

After having run a square setup for years, went to a staggered setup and so far it's outstanding. We used the overall balance of the car to determine tire sizes, after first deciding what size we wanted to use on the front.

Posted by: SirAndy Mar 25 2013, 08:44 PM

That's the smart way to do it.

I went with the "OMG, i need those shiny wheels!" approach.

Front:
9x17 with 245-45 Hoosier Dot R's

Rear:
11x17 with 315-35 Hoosier Dot R's


The 245 on 9" rims might be too much for the front.
We'll see how that is going to work for me. Got the wheels and tires, so what the hell, i'll give it a try.

I do know i need all the help i can get in the rear. Right now, it's just to easy to spin them.

Posted by: J P Stein Mar 26 2013, 09:40 AM

I weighed my front WT assy (8 X 15 Fuch with cantis) 31lbs. Weighed a buddy's 245 X 17s on 9 inch Fiskes.....42 lbs. This was on a bathroom scale, but hay........a couple pounds is inconsequential, but 11 lbs per corner is NOT. The big back assys were worse......13 lbs difference.

Posted by: SirAndy Mar 26 2013, 10:12 AM

I agree. Except, my car is not a dedicated AX car and i'm only out there for fun.

Most of my time is spent on the street.

Posted by: J P Stein Mar 26 2013, 10:18 AM

Heh, you sounded pretty serious at the few AX events we attended together.
Musta' been all that red mist blowing in the air.

Posted by: SirAndy Mar 26 2013, 12:47 PM

I'm serious when i'm at the event. I'm competitive in nature.


But once i drive off the event lot, i'm back to street driving and the comforts that come with it.

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 26 2013, 06:32 PM

good data point. When I get home, I will weigh my 16x8 with 245 hoosier a6 and see how they compare.

--brett

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 26 2013, 06:34 PM

I am really curoius about how you are going to get that size tire under the gt-flares.

( it's what is driving part of my rim choice.)

--brett

Posted by: SirAndy Mar 26 2013, 08:13 PM

I won't ...


I have a set of extra wide GT flares for 9"/11" wheels that i'm going to mount.

Posted by: Woody Mar 26 2013, 09:01 PM

Posted by: Randal Mar 27 2013, 06:28 PM

Mark put an extra strip in my wide GT flares in order to fit my 11" wheels with 10.7" wide tires. After finishing and checking the Avon's have about an inch clearance on the inside, but not much outside. Could change to 6" inners and 5" outers to get the wheels closer to the inside, but I'm happy for now. Just saying, check your inner spacing before you cut the flares as you might be OK without the extra strip.

Posted by: Woody Mar 27 2013, 08:52 PM

I'd much rather have them spaced towards the outside.

Posted by: Randal Mar 27 2013, 10:41 PM

Back track is 68" wide, so having to learn to stay a bit further away from cones. I could save two inches if I went with the bigger inner barrel, but not sure it is worth the effort to rebuild the wheels. Easier to just change your driving a bit.

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 28 2013, 12:52 AM

Finally got around to weighing my rims. 16x8 and 245/45-16 Hoosier A6: 41 lbs.

We'll see what rims I can find, that will support my tire selection.

-- brett

Posted by: bfrymire Mar 28 2013, 06:26 PM

Andy,

what size are the rims you are replacing?

--brett

Posted by: SirAndy Mar 31 2013, 12:28 PM

7"

Posted by: Randal Mar 31 2013, 02:50 PM

These cantilevered 9" slicks on cookie cutters weight 32lbs.

Posted by: J P Stein Apr 1 2013, 08:32 AM

This thread has pretty well publicised the fact that larger wheel/tire combos are heavier than
smaller ones ......both widths & heights carry a penalty with heights being the worst of the 2, IMO.

Heights can get one in trouble by raising ride heights of the car and getting the car back down to mother earth can compromise your suspension.

Wheel widths can over reach the front suspension geometery of a x19 or 911....BTDT. Scrub radius can get out of control. Heavy steering and a monster push are the results .

Take care *before* you spend your money.

Posted by: Woody Apr 14 2013, 05:52 PM

This is the latest setup. Lowered the front 1/4", lowered the back 3/4". Front camber a -2.6, rear at -2.2. Front toe -.02 degrees combined, rear toe +.06 degrees combined. Installed a 22mm front bar set just softer than middle. Missed top time by .5 seconds to a very fast FP Boxster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7GTip9K31M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Posted by: Woody Nov 12 2013, 09:35 AM

Well its been almost a year with this setup and I can say it performs very well. I'm not sure if I want to stick with the A6s next year or go to a slick.

Saturdays PCA event, took second out of 32 cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQU_xSY5VCo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sundays event with SASCA. 1st in SSM 9th overall out of 132 cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUS5BBGDEec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Posted by: Randal Nov 12 2013, 09:39 AM

Nice driving Woody. Sounds like your setup is working the way you want.

Of course once you go slicks, you'll never go back. Instant time reduction, but then it's a good idea to stiffen up the car otherwise you won't get the full advantage.

Posted by: Woody Nov 12 2013, 11:04 AM

Yep, I intend to do that this winter as well.