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914World.com _ The Paddock _ recent Sebring Abuse
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 17 2013, 10:32 AM
Hey Everyone 
Here's what I'm running
2258cc
10.5 to 1 compression
40 webers
494 web cam
type 1 oil pump
mocal oil cooler 25 row
mocal sandwich w/thermostat adapter
accusump 2 quart
Brad Penn Air-cooled oil 15-50 (5 1/2 quarts)
Let me explain my set-up
The oil cooler is a rear mount under the car on the passenger side rear. I made some duct work and its almost vertical to catch the most air as possible.
Track conditions
Sunny, low 80s, 30min sessions
question 1) With that cooler I didn't expect to run in the 230f oil temps. Is 230f acceptable?
question 2) I also have some oil on the top of the case /engine tin pooling. 1-2 side.
It only happens under WOT. Any ideas?
question 3) I never set-up an accusump and I don't like it so far.
It over fills the case at shut-off. Do I have to much air in it (9lbs)?
Other then my oil questions, I had a great time. Ran a 2:51. My new best time.
Posted by: brant Dec 17 2013, 10:41 AM
you really need a front cooler to improve efficiency on the track
I know Chris at Tangerine and others have wonderful rear cooler systems that work... I'm not taking anything away from them
but frontal air is going to be more efficient
and I have always found front coolers to be more effective
(I did put a rear cooler into one car, and was never pleased with it's results)
regarding the accusump... I assume you have a shut off valve?
you have to contain the oil into the sump for shut off
without the valve the over-full condition blows valve cover gaskets
possibly the source of your oil pooling too.
brant
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 17 2013, 10:57 AM
I didn't like the idea of running the oil lines all the way up there in fear of the oil pressure falling off to much.
Also worried about creating lift with the bottom exit of air.
I'm I stressed about nothing?
The accusump is a mystery to me. 
I pull in to the pits, car is at idle and I shut off the accusump. It seems to me that the oil viscosity is thinner at temperature and won't travel back up the pump? Once the oil temp has dropped to 160ish I can fill it back up. I just don't like all that oil sitting in the crankcase.
Posted by: brant Dec 17 2013, 11:32 AM
Back when we ran an accusump. We used to close the valve on the cool down lap by reving the motor under load to redline. (Building the most oil pressure possible with a hot engine)
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Dec 17 2013, 07:15 PM
Hey Shane,
I don't know much about Accusumps, but I have an idea about your oil pooling. Do you have head vents and a breather box? If so, check the connection from the hose at the head. FourBlades has vented heads and he popped one of the hoses off, spewing oil all over the place when we were at Sebring. Mostly at WOT though.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 17 2013, 08:14 PM
Back when we ran an accusump. We used to close the valve on the cool down lap by reving the motor under load to redline. (Building the most oil pressure possible with a hot engine)
I was thinking the same thing. Kinda wish I didn't install it.
Thanks
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 17 2013, 08:15 PM
Hey Shane,
I don't know much about Accusumps, but I have an idea about your oil pooling. Do you have head vents and a breather box? If so, check the connection from the hose at the head. FourBlades has vented heads and he popped one of the hoses off, spewing oil all over the place when we were at Sebring. Mostly at WOT though.
I think its coming out of the dipstick
Posted by: brant Dec 17 2013, 09:29 PM
if you don't want to use it, just shut the valve and make sure the oil level in the motor is correct...
but these cars have a significant oiling problem in stock trim during cornering....
I installed a 2nd large oil pressure warning light on a 15lb pressure switch and could light it easily when I forgot to turn on the accusump.
you need some kind of additional oil modifications over stock for track work.
brant
Posted by: Woody Dec 17 2013, 10:03 PM
Get rid of the head vents. Plug em off. Drill the chimney straight through and run it to a breather tank like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85400/overview/
Pooling may be caused by a bad chimney gasket.
Posted by: SirAndy Dec 17 2013, 11:09 PM
Does your class allow for a hood vent?
If so, create some extra downforce and vent out the hood ...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=44700&view=findpost&p=1898832
Posted by: carr914 Dec 18 2013, 05:48 AM
I didn't like the idea of running the oil lines all the way up there in fear of the oil pressure falling off to much.
Also worried about creating lift with the bottom exit of air.
I'm I stressed about nothing?
The accusump is a mystery to me.
When I had my 4 Cylinder Track car I Always ran the Accusump and had a Front Cooler, but my Temps were always High. I think it is because Sebring is such a Long Track & the RPMs are always High.
As Far as Routing the Air from the Front Cooler, you can run it out the Front Wheel Wells
Posted by: carr914 Dec 18 2013, 05:59 AM
Here's another Duct to Wheel Well
Posted by: brant Dec 18 2013, 07:27 AM
The exit must be larger or less restrictive than the intake
I changed my front cooler exit twice on an old 914 race car. Each time I hanged to a less restrictive exit I dropped another 10-15 degrees of oil temp. This was with the same cooler on the same car and same motor.
The tubes to the wheel wells are to restrictive. Air won't flow through the cooler with that much resistance
Posted by: nolift914 Dec 18 2013, 02:22 PM
Hey Shane,
I don't know much about Accusumps, but I have an idea about your oil pooling. Do you have head vents and a breather box? If so, check the connection from the hose at the head. FourBlades has vented heads and he popped one of the hoses off, spewing oil all over the place when we were at Sebring. Mostly at WOT though.
I think its coming out of the dipstick
Sounds like you have a FAT 2258 which is same setup that I have. I have 11 to 1 compression which caused positive pressure in the case resulting in the dipstick being pushed out and oil spraying from the tube. I use a rubber cap to close the tube when I am running. In addition I run a tangerine racing breather can.
Posted by: Racer Chris Dec 18 2013, 07:30 PM
An accusump is an engine saver if its set up correctly.
It's important to shut the valve while the oil pressure is high so the accusump is fully charged.
The system should incorporate a check valve to force the accusump to feed the bearings and not the oil pump.
230F oil temp is ok if your pressure is good.
A front mounted cooler may be necessary if the temp goes any higher.
In that case use dash 12 lines to keep pressure loss to a minimum.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 18 2013, 09:38 PM
Does your class allow for a hood vent?
If so, create some extra downforce and vent out the hood ...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=44700&view=findpost&p=1898832
I'm just doing DE's right now and I don't worry about class stuff to much. I enjoy engineering my car as much as running it.
A hood vent would be my first choice though.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 18 2013, 09:47 PM
Hey Shane,
I don't know much about Accusumps, but I have an idea about your oil pooling. Do you have head vents and a breather box? If so, check the connection from the hose at the head. FourBlades has vented heads and he popped one of the hoses off, spewing oil all over the place when we were at Sebring. Mostly at WOT though.
I think its coming out of the dipstick
Sounds like you have a FAT 2258 which is same setup I have. I have 11 to 1 which caused positive pressure in the case resulting in the dipstick being pushed out any oil spraying from the tube. I use a rubber cap to close the tube when I am running. I addition run a tangerine racing breather can.
Have a tangerine breather can already, but I like your rubber cap idea. Ill try that at the next event. If theres still oil there it could be from the oil filler cap.
Posted by: Seabird Dec 19 2013, 02:08 PM
if you don't want to use it, just shut the valve and make sure the oil level in the motor is correct...
but these cars have a significant oiling problem in stock trim during cornering....
I installed a 2nd large oil pressure warning light on a 15lb pressure switch and could light it easily when I forgot to turn on the accusump.
you need some kind of additional oil modifications over stock for track work.
brant
A little bit of a highjack here, sorry. Brant when you say stock trim you mean without the tunacan/larger sump? Or am I to understand that a accusump is necessary equipment for track applications?
Miguel
Posted by: nolift914 Dec 19 2013, 02:47 PM
Hey Everyone
Here's what I'm running
2258cc
10.5 to 1 compression
40 webers
494 web cam
type 1 oil pump
mocal oil cooler 25 row
mocal sandwich w/thermostat adapter
accusump 2 quart
Brad Penn Air-cooled oil 15-50 (5 1/2 quarts)
Let me explain my set-up
The oil cooler is a rear mount under the car on the passenger side rear. I made some duct work and its almost vertical to catch the most air as possible.
Track conditions
Sunny, low 80s, 30min sessions
question 1) With that cooler I didn't expect to run in the 230f oil temps. Is 230f acceptable?
question 2) I also have some oil on the top of the case /engine tin pooling. 1-2 side.
It only happens under WOT. Any ideas?
question 3) I never set-up an accusump and I don't like it so far.
It over fills the case at shut-off. Do I have to much air in it (9lbs)?
Other then my oil questions, I had a great time. Ran a 2:51. My new best time.
What type fuel are you running with the 10.5 to 1 compression ? I have been running 110 leaded sunoco race gas but the location I have buying it from recently closed. The only race gas within 50miles of me is 100 unleaded.
Posted by: SirAndy Dec 19 2013, 04:39 PM
Pump gas, 91 octane. The twin plug setup helps with that ...
Posted by: brant Dec 19 2013, 05:00 PM
if you don't want to use it, just shut the valve and make sure the oil level in the motor is correct...
but these cars have a significant oiling problem in stock trim during cornering....
I installed a 2nd large oil pressure warning light on a 15lb pressure switch and could light it easily when I forgot to turn on the accusump.
you need some kind of additional oil modifications over stock for track work.
brant
A little bit of a highjack here, sorry. Brant when you say stock trim you mean without the tunacan/larger sump? Or am I to understand that a accusump is necessary equipment for track applications?
Miguel
Miguel,
I think I was a little vague because there are lots of opinions
I believe the tuna can with extended pick up will help A LOT, and may be good enough....
that being said, my own belief is that a small accusump is even a little better
we used to run both on our 4 cylinder race car
before I added the accusump, I used to run only a tuna can (along with the front cooler and large oil pump)
a high volume oil pump is probably a really good addition to help during any momentary dips in oil pressure
We didn't add the accusump due to any failures
but improved oiling during cornering should increase motor life
and during the 13 or so years we ran the 4 cylinder race car it evolved from DE to full Club Race.... we kept buying hotter and hotter more dedicated motors during that time and at some point it became a bit of insurance to improve oiling and help an expensive motor last longer.
brant
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 19 2013, 06:51 PM
Hey Everyone
Here's what I'm running
2258cc
10.5 to 1 compression
40 webers
494 web cam
type 1 oil pump
mocal oil cooler 25 row
mocal sandwich w/thermostat adapter
accusump 2 quart
Brad Penn Air-cooled oil 15-50 (5 1/2 quarts)
Let me explain my set-up
The oil cooler is a rear mount under the car on the passenger side rear. I made some duct work and its almost vertical to catch the most air as possible.
Track conditions
Sunny, low 80s, 30min sessions
question 1) With that cooler I didn't expect to run in the 230f oil temps. Is 230f acceptable?
question 2) I also have some oil on the top of the case /engine tin pooling. 1-2 side.
It only happens under WOT. Any ideas?
question 3) I never set-up an accusump and I don't like it so far.
It over fills the case at shut-off. Do I have to much air in it (9lbs)?
Other then my oil questions, I had a great time. Ran a 2:51. My new best time.
What type fuel are you running with the 10.5 to 1 compression ? I have been running 110 leaded sunoco race gas but the location I have buying it from recently closed. The only race gas within 50miles of me is 100 unleaded.
I've been adding 100 octane aviation fuel.
Posted by: brant Dec 19 2013, 07:01 PM
if you use a wide band, its best to check your ratio's with AV gas
the gas is fine, but some of the stabilizers and fillers in it are different than pump or race gas
due to the extra additives, it slightly changes your air/fuel ratio's with less power in the same volume
nothing big... but sometimes slightly different jetting can bring improvements.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 19 2013, 07:01 PM
An accusump is an engine saver if its set up correctly.
It's important to shut the valve while the oil pressure is high so the accusump is fully charged.
The system should incorporate a check valve to force the accusump to feed the bearings and not the oil pump.
230F oil temp is ok if your pressure is good.
A front mounted cooler may be necessary if the temp goes any higher.
In that case use dash 12 lines to keep pressure loss to a minimum.
I don't have a check valve and will be installing it after the new year.
I really don't want to put the cooler up front. Anyone use the heater ducts to get cool air to the rear?
Posted by: brant Dec 19 2013, 07:08 PM
I re-read the thread and answered my own question....
but frontal air is much more efficient
the heater ducts don't carry significant air what so ever
the cowl is a low pressure and I've seen that work...
if you keep the cooler as you have it, you may need to build a scoop where there is clean air above or below the car to bring air to the cooler.
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Dec 20 2013, 12:01 AM
Brant, I KNOW I've asked you this before, probably over two years ago when I first started. But is that all there is to it to add a front oil cooler for a /4? A high volume pump, sandwich adapter, lines, cooler and ducting? I admit I still don't quite get the Type 4 oiling system, but I was always worried about pressure dropping off from running oil that far forward and then back.
Posted by: carr914 Dec 20 2013, 02:32 AM
George, as long as you have the Upgrade to the Oil Pump your Pressure will be good.
The Accusump I think is essential to a -4 that is on the Track because of Corner Forces & the resulting loss of Oiling . Plus another advantage is Pre-Oiling the Motor prior to Start-up
Posted by: Racer Chris Dec 20 2013, 08:55 AM
Brant, I KNOW I've asked you this before, probably over two years ago when I first started. But is that all there is to it to add a front oil cooler for a /4? A high volume pump, sandwich adapter, lines, cooler and ducting? I admit I still don't quite get the Type 4 oiling system, but I was always worried about pressure dropping off from running oil that far forward and then back.
I use dash 12 lines to minimize pressure losses from drag.
Posted by: brant Dec 20 2013, 10:55 AM
Brant, I KNOW I've asked you this before, probably over two years ago when I first started. But is that all there is to it to add a front oil cooler for a /4? A high volume pump, sandwich adapter, lines, cooler and ducting? I admit I still don't quite get the Type 4 oiling system, but I was always worried about pressure dropping off from running oil that far forward and then back.
yes sir...
its one of those jobs that sounds alot worse than it actually is.
Depending on the motor, I've had some motors with the addition of the oil pressure spring kit also.
but oil pressure drop off isn't a problem with a larger pump.
putting the pump in can be harder than the rest of the job.
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Dec 20 2013, 11:53 AM
Gotcha, thanks guys. Still trying to figure out if we need one. The last time I was at Sebring, oil temps peaked at 210, which is perfect. But then again, the motor wouldn't turn past 4,000 rpms, so I'm not sure that was a good gauge on whether we needed a cooler or not.
Hoping to do another DE in the Spring to find out for sure. I know about the modification to the drive tab needed to run a cast iron Type I pump in a Type IV. But anyone have any recommendations on a good pump and recommended size? This motor is somewhat stockish, from what I can tell. Joe O'Brien seems to think it's got a hotter cam in it, but until I have the chance to measure it I don't know what the duration is. Just need a pump that will be sufficient to do it's job, but not draw too much attention from the Chumpcar officials.
This is the only one I know anything about: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/MELLING-30mm-Cast-Iron-Oil-Pump-Type-1-p/melling-type-1.htm
Sorry for the hijack Shane!
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 20 2013, 12:31 PM
Gotcha, thanks guys. Still trying to figure out if we need one. The last time I was at Sebring, oil temps peaked at 210, which is perfect. But then again, the motor wouldn't turn past 4,000 rpms, so I'm not sure that was a good gauge on whether we needed a cooler or not.
Hoping to do another DE in the Spring to find out for sure. I know about the modification to the drive tab needed to run a cast iron Type I pump in a Type IV. But anyone have any recommendations on a good pump and recommended size? This motor is somewhat stockish, from what I can tell. Joe O'Brien seems to think it's got a hotter cam in it, but until I have the chance to measure it I don't know what the duration is. Just need a pump that will be sufficient to do it's job, but not draw too much attention from the Chumpcar officials.
This is the only one I know anything about: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/MELLING-30mm-Cast-Iron-Oil-Pump-Type-1-p/melling-type-1.htm
Sorry for the hijack Shane!
I don't mind a good hijack. Its all good info for me too.
I don't see how a 914 can compete with the other chumpcars. Without traffic I could do from 2:51-2:53. Guys were running 2:40s!!
Have you contacted the chumpcar guys? I'm going to make a questions list and ring them up. I think my 5-lug conversion may be a problem.
Posted by: brant Dec 20 2013, 12:47 PM
I've used the melling in about 7 motors now
some folks will tell you the steel expansion rate of a melling is problematic with an aluminum case... possibly causing loss of pressure if the expansion creates internal leak-by
I personally have not had that problem
currenlty there is one in the yellow car I sold (rear trunk cooler car with no track use), and the black car I still own with a front cooler
I used them in all of my 4 race motors back in the day also.
I believe that Jake had said that the quality control of the melling had dropped significantly a couple of years ago when the company traded hands... I've only bought one since that time and its working well
so I haven't noticed any problems ?
brant
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Dec 20 2013, 12:53 PM
I don't mind a good hijack. Its all good info for me too.
I don't see how a 914 can compete with the other chumpcars. Without traffic I could do from 2:51-2:53. Guys were running 2:40s!!
Have you contacted the chumpcar guys? I'm going to make a questions list and ring them up. I think my 5-lug conversion may be a problem.
Shane, send me a PM if you have any questions. I've reached out to Chumpcar a lot over the past two years and they've been extremely helpful. There are a few idiosyncrasies to the 914 that don't apply to most of the other cars whereby we have some loopholes in the rules. I doubt they would ever even know that a 5-lug conversion wasn't stock. Their eyes are mostly focused on the BMW and Honda guys.
To answer your question, the 914 is not competitive. At all. Best times at the 2013 Sebring race were in the low 2:40s and several cars probably were capable of going below that. Heck, I turned 2:43s in a BMW E30 that understeered like a pig. But I built ours to have fun and hopefully finish. If and when we blow the motor, we'll put a Suby in it and destroy them all
Thanks for the advice and personal experiences Brant! We'll see how it does at the next DE. If it gets too hot, at least I have a parts list in mind now.
Posted by: Randal Dec 21 2013, 01:17 PM
you really need a front cooler to improve efficiency on the track
I know Chris at Tangerine and others have wonderful rear cooler systems that work... I'm not taking anything away from them
but frontal air is going to be more efficient
and I have always found front coolers to be more effective
(I did put a rear cooler into one car, and was never pleased with it's results)
regarding the accusump... I assume you have a shut off valve?
you have to contain the oil into the sump for shut off
without the valve the over-full condition blows valve cover gaskets
possibly the source of your oil pooling too.
brant
I've had Accusump on both my 2.0 and my 2.4 type 4 motors. I can't prove they lengthen engine life, but I've never had a failure due to oiling issues. With the money you put into a motor, it's not a difficult to understand ROI to have a bit of insurance.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 22 2013, 12:13 PM
Still working on getting the oil to cool down. Worried about Summer track days!!
These pics are how I mounted the cooler up.
I want it to stay in the rear because of my fuel cell (its tight up there).
Thinking about the hole saw to get some air out.
Im up for advise before I cut more of my car up.
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Posted by: Seabird Dec 22 2013, 12:29 PM
I like the installation, why not just add a fan to push air through it?
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 22 2013, 01:03 PM
I like the installation, why not just add a fan to push air through it?
Check out the first picture. Its kinda "wedged" in there. I own a pull-thru fan that I haven't installed yet. Not surf if a fan will solve my problems? Probably wouldn't hurt though
Posted by: Seabird Dec 22 2013, 01:21 PM
Check out the first picture. Its kinda "wedged" in there. I own a pull-thru fan that I haven't installed yet. Not surf if a fan will solve my problems? Probably wouldn't hurt though
It's easier for air to flow around than through, so it does. Some air will flow through but it's not like a radiator at the front of the car. The fan will do the work of drawing it through. Air flow is the key to cooling. As an added benefit it works when your not moving so it keeps cooling while your waiting to get on the track and while your idling back to the pits.
Worth a try, easy to install. There is a thermostat switch/install kit that Advance sells that lets you adjust when it comes on. I use one on my e30 and on the GTV. Niether have issues with over heating. The e30 has a m30 engine out of a 535 and most folks say it's hard to keep them cool in the smaller engine bay of the e30 (and that's my track toy).
Posted by: brant Dec 22 2013, 01:50 PM
I think the fan will help too
although some say at speed the fan becomes intrusive and a partial blockage to full frontal air (if you have full frontal air)
I would build a scoop on that to pull in clean air from under the car. That would add some aero drag but the trade off being enough air flow to cool better
no matter what you need to add some screen to that cooler to protect it from rocks and garbage
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Dec 22 2013, 05:07 PM
I think the fan will help too
although some say at speed the fan becomes intrusive and a partial blockage to full frontal air (if you have full frontal air)
I would build a scoop on that to pull in clean air from under the car. That would add some aero drag but the trade off being enough air flow to cool better
no matter what you need to add some screen to that cooler to protect it from rocks and garbage
Oil being cool is priority number 1. Want to Chump it for 14 hours
A little aero drag is ok. I planned on doing a protective screen and forgot. I looked for rubber up there and there was none. Still need a screen though.
Fan will be on soon too
Posted by: Racer Chris Dec 24 2013, 11:32 AM
I disagree about adding the fan, unless it moves air at 100mph or better.
It would be better to mount the cooler a little more vertical and make the box on the front at least 4" deep to increase the head pressure.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 09:35 AM
Duct work
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Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 09:36 AM
Tubing
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Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 09:38 AM
To the cooler. There is also a air duct on the lower passenger side of the car.
If this doesn't get it done, front cooler, here I come.
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Posted by: Racer Chris May 27 2014, 10:15 AM
What does the inlet side of the cooler look like?
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 10:26 AM
Here you go Chris. Screens are not installed yet in pic, on there now.
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Posted by: Racer Chris May 27 2014, 10:39 AM
I meant where the ducts end at the face of the cooler...
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 10:58 AM
I meant where the ducts end at the face of the cooler...
Sorry, got it right this time.
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Posted by: brant May 27 2014, 11:05 AM
nice work....
I built something similar for my tranny
I just couldn't get enough clean air at the edge of the firewall (where yours is)
I ended up moving my intake scoop to the passenger side window and taking the duct work down through the engine lid and into the rear trunk
dropped my trans temp another 15 -20 degree's when I moved my scoop
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Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 27 2014, 11:23 AM
nice work....
I built something similar for my tranny
I just couldn't get enough clean air at the edge of the firewall (where yours is)
I ended up moving my intake scoop to the passenger side window and taking the duct work down through the engine lid and into the rear trunk
dropped my trans temp another 15 -20 degree's when I moved my scoop
I borrowed your idea here. I never noticed an update on your thread about it working or not working. Mine doesn't have that elbow that your does. I don't know if that will make any difference or not. I'll find out at Sebring in June. It will be hot!!
Shane
Posted by: brant May 27 2014, 12:01 PM
I think your lack of the 90 turn is only going to make it better
it worked somewhat...
I dropped my trans oil 25degree's..
but another 15-20 when I moved my intake up the the upper back of the passenger side window. I built another scoop for the new location and need to take pictures soon.
I also ran with the engine lid off for testing purposes.
going to build a new engine lid next weekend that accomodates the feeder hose.
I should update
Posted by: veekry9 May 27 2014, 08:35 PM
Duct work
Remarkably similar to the P51 belly scoop.
It worked because of what followed,a low pressure area.
A RR Merlin had to dissipate a lot of heat,and the solution was low drag.
Posted by: Seabird May 28 2014, 07:51 AM
I was under the impression that the tumbling air under the cylinder heads, caused by the plastic flaps, was important for head cooling. By adding this ducting here under the 3/4 bank are you not exacerbating the cooling challenges to cylinder 3?
I may not be getting a clear understanding of the layout from the pictures.
Miguel
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop May 28 2014, 09:40 AM
I was under the impression that the tumbling air under the cylinder heads, caused by the plastic flaps, was important for head cooling. By adding this ducting here under the 3/4 bank are you not exacerbating the cooling challenges to cylinder 3?
I may not be getting a clear understanding of the layout from the pictures.
Miguel
I removed those flaps a while ago. They were falling off with the rust I had there. I've run the car for a while now and my head temp is fine. I will monitoring head temps with the tubing there. I guess it could run up a bit.
See you next Sunday.
Shane
Posted by: Seabird May 28 2014, 09:41 AM
I was under the impression that the tumbling air under the cylinder heads, caused by the plastic flaps, was important for head cooling. By adding this ducting here under the 3/4 bank are you not exacerbating the cooling challenges to cylinder 3?
I may not be getting a clear understanding of the layout from the pictures.
Miguel
I removed those flaps a while ago. They were falling off with the rust I had there. I've run the car for a while now and my head temp is fine. I will monitoring head temps with the tubing there. I guess it could run up a bit.
See you next Sunday.
Shane
Yeah man I am stoked!! Watching everyone race this weekend was frustrating!
Posted by: brant May 28 2014, 10:26 AM
you have a great bunch of teeners out there...
time to think about going wheel to wheel in a vintage club
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Jun 15 2014, 09:02 AM
New bumper exit. I think I've been building up air behind the cooler in the past. Sebring next weekend with Seabird. I see if this works out. Cant hurt, right?
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Posted by: ablesnead Jun 15 2014, 09:26 AM
Shane that screening reduces airflow about 30 percent...severs no real purpose either.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Jun 15 2014, 09:34 AM
Shane that screening reduces airflow about 30 percent...severs no real purpose either.
My dad said the same thing. Its holding the bumper together. I'll try something else!
Thanks for the advise.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Jun 15 2014, 11:18 AM
Took the screen off and added brackets to hold the bumper in place.
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Posted by: brant Jun 15 2014, 04:51 PM
Shane,
in the olden days when 914's ruled the local club race scene here in colorado...
most guys cut about the bottom 2/3rds of the rear bumper off.... they even trimmed the sheet metal about 6 inches behind the bumper...
worth considering.
it allows engine air to better escape
think of it as dropping the rear valance to let more air out... only the next step.
definitely helps with engine cooling, and also helps reduce aero drag... plus it would also help with your cooler exit
brant
Posted by: Seabird Jun 15 2014, 05:30 PM
Took the screen off and added brackets to hold the bumper in place.
I was at it with my cooler today too. Added a ducting from the fan in the front valance back to the cooler and added to Chris's shroud to scoop more air from the under car stream.
I ended up removing the flap on the passenger side like you did.
Can't wait till next weekend! I am going to pit with the Condor crew by turn 17, do you mind moving down that way? Going to try to get there early.
Miguel
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Jun 15 2014, 05:36 PM
Brant,
Would you change anything on your oil cooler set up you have now?
Crossflow cooler?
Hood exit?
After this weekend at Sebring I'm going to start engineering front cooling.
Shane
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Jun 15 2014, 05:56 PM
Took the screen off and added brackets to hold the bumper in place.
I was at it with my cooler today too. Added a ducting from the fan in the front valance back to the cooler and added to Chris's shroud to scoop more air from the under car stream.
I ended up removing the flap on the passenger side like you did.
Can't wait till next weekend! I am going to pit with the Condor crew by turn 17, do you mind moving down that way? Going to try to get there early.
Miguel
Hey Miguel,
If my cooler doesn't work to my liking this weekend then front cooler it is. Did you figure out your pressure drop? I wonder if you had enough oil in your car. When I first installed my accusump I had problems with "knowing" my oil level.
Looking forward to seeing your new duct work.
I'll be pitting with my corvette buddy. I'm bringing my bike, I'll be down there all day!
Shane
Posted by: Seabird Jun 15 2014, 06:12 PM
Cool, I am going to try and bring mine too.
Oil, maybe. Hopefully.
It looks like I had the perfect storm. We were not able to find any single issue big enough to say definitively this was it. The pre-charge on the accusump was low, 2psi. I had reconnected the breather hose from the stove pipe to the catch can and I think this was causing an over pressure situation in the crank. Which in turn pushed oil to the heads and in to the catch can over filling it and spilling out. And the smaller secondary relief valve was as rusty as the main one.
I know I lost some oil, maybe the +1 quart that I was over filled, but at the end of the day the dip stick still read full so I was not critically low.
I drained the oil check the accusump pre-charge. Checked for leaks on the air side, held 60 psi for 8 hours. Bleed down the 60 psi to 10 psi and refilled the oil system.
There was a question about the tuna can pick up and the pick up tube to case o-rings but those checked out.
Chris sent me a new catch can in a giffy and got it installed yesterday. I love his customer support!
Replaced the pressure relief piston. But I am going to bring a rig to jamb it closed if the problem persists.
I am not happy about not finding a specific failure point and going back to the track with out getting a chance to test it but I don't have much of a choice. Need to find a big empty parking lot at some point.
Shrug.
Miguel
Posted by: brant Jun 16 2014, 11:29 AM
Brant,
Would you change anything on your oil cooler set up you have now?
Crossflow cooler?
Hood exit?
After this weekend at Sebring I'm going to start engineering front cooling.
Shane
I do think that frontal air with an unrestricted and even assisted exit is the best. So. Hood exit is the best
I have one 914 with a hood exit and it cooled well even with a modified 4
AN-12 by the way.
I won't change my orange car as a hood exit is not allowed in vintage
Posted by: brant Jun 16 2014, 05:16 PM
here is my EX race car...
the cooling is great
I have repeated this story to death...
but I ran the same cooler with 3 different air exits
same spec motors over a 10 year period of w2w
each time I improved the air exit I dropped another 10-20F from the oil temp
through the hood was definitely the most effective and that was with the same tiny earls cooler on all versions
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Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Aug 4 2014, 06:11 PM
question 2) I also have some oil on the top of the case /engine tin pooling. 1-2 side.
It only happens under WOT. Any ideas?
Update on this problem.
I added a thicker cork gasket from 914rubber on the stock oil baffle. It worked out great. No pooling now.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Oct 30 2014, 07:02 PM
Oil cooler update. (so far)
Working on the plumbing next.
Wondering if anyone has used the heater channels with any success? Think I can get two -12 lines in there?
Here's what I got done so far....
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Posted by: carr914 Oct 30 2014, 08:37 PM
I did the Heater Channels - worked out pretty good, a lot of Track Action. I'll have to dig out some pictures
Posted by: Racer Chris Oct 31 2014, 07:37 AM
I used a hole saw to create an opening at the inside front of the long where the heater tube has a metal elbow going up through the top of the long.
Instead of going up through the elbow, both -12 lines come into the passenger footwell from the side of the long, then enter a hole at the front of the footwell into the reinforcing channel below the gas tank, out through another hole into the front trunk and forward to the cooler.
I'll see if I have any pictures.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Nov 2 2014, 06:04 PM
I got both lines to work. Thanks guys.
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Posted by: ThePaintedMan Nov 2 2014, 09:05 PM
Is there any downside to running them as Shane has pictured? Specifically, is it okay to have the lines turn straight up, only to run back down to the cooler in the front?
Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 3 2014, 03:45 PM
I think it works ok that way but there is a better path.
Holesaw through the side of the inner long (black circle) and through the metal elbow.
Cut through the firewall at the base (black square), into the little channel below the tank, and through the other side into the front trunk. There's room for both -12 lines. 
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Nov 3 2014, 03:50 PM
Enough for water lines too? 
Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 3 2014, 04:11 PM
Enough for water lines too?
Two dash 12 oil lines will barely fit, maybe with enough room for a dash 6 hose or two but that's it.
Posted by: Jetsetsurfshop Nov 3 2014, 06:31 PM
2 -12 are tight. It would be hard to get the next size up in there.
I studied my potential paths and like this one the most, I didn't want the lines to go under my fuel cell.
One benefit to my routing is the oil cooler doesn't drain back into the case.
George, you won't be happy till that car is Suby powered!!
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