This is my first autocross season using the Hoosier A6. Basically, given my
street-friendly suspension settings, I get more 'roll' on outside edge of the
tires and after 8 days I figured I should flip them over if for no other reason
than to avoid early cording at the edge.
So, I did that and just did the first autocross, and they at first seemed
terribly slippery (although the morning was kinda cold) and even by the end
of the day still not as good as before. My times were off compared to others.
I was told by a 'seasoned' guy I know there that it will take time to get them
scrubbed in going the other way. Is this to be expected? Now that I think
about it, across the whole tire the wear was not even (it gets a bit wavy), so
flipping them must also put less rubber down to the pavement initially.
Thanks for opinions.
Flipped them? Are they all rolling in the same direction as before?
I also noticed that the Hoosiers liked it better when it was warm out!!!
I also think, with a flip, we got them to last a year with two drivers. Five to six run each.
By the way, with my -camber, we corded the insides.
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Ok...let me look here.
They felt fine after we flipped them. I never changed the rotating direction though.
10 events a year. They were dead around 8 1/2 i'd say.
Camber in front was -1
Camber in rear was -1 3/4
205/50/15
A6s, even tired, still are the best way to kick Mazda butt!!
I looked at the other pictures. The fronts were corded on the outside, the rears on the inside.
Of course, there were moved around the car to get as much as possible out of them.
I ran 22psi in the front, 26 in the rear. I won C-stock in my small autocross group with those psi's.
I think my springs are 140. I do have a rear sway bar and a big front bar.
Not sure if I'm helping or not...
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That's kinda different from mine. This is after 9 days of about 8 runs
per day on our longish course of ~65sec. The more rounded end on
the right is what used to be the outside edge until I flipped them.
But I have a bulge in the center.
Mark,
Since you flipped the tires, did you mess with air pressure at all? That last wear pic looks under inflated. The outside edges and sidewall are bearing the brunt but the center is "shiny".
Shane, I bet your cording is due to a couple of things. If the rear isn't towed out, I think that the (rear) sway bar might be causing the inside tire to drag slightly. On the fronts, it sounds like you need more camber.
Then again, I'm not a big autocross guy so I should keep my big mouth shut.
I always check my temperatures to determine what pressure to run.
My experience with Hoosier A6 on mid-engine Porsche (Boxster & Cayman) is flipping the tire on the wheel can potentially double it's useful life. Once we figured out what good pressure was for a 2900-3100 lb. car was (36 front, 34 rear) we were able to mitigate shoulder wear. Those cars a very camber-limited (without plates, stock class) and shoulder wear will happen. We would usually do two events, six runs each (plus a few test n tune runs) and then flip the tires. Those tires would then be good for another two events before grip would start to fall off. Using that method, two years ago, I got 70 runs on a set of A6s before cord started to show. Granted, the last 20 or 30 runs were substandard grip but we'd plan on using up the last bit at Nationals test n tune and then slap on the fresh rubber for the competition runs.
Okay, good info all. I have 80 runs on these, but things still felt good
and the times were good 2 events ago just before the flip. I am going
to bump up the pressure from 29 to ~34 and also bring one of those
infrared temp guns (I know it's not accurate but just to compare
across tread). Hopefully this will use the rubber in the center of the
tire and keep the rollover a bit less.
man, my 10 year old V710's still look new! I really need to spring for new tires..next year.
I will try some tire softener in the near term, can't hurt. I am trying to wear these tires out..can't do it...
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