http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=12929
Im thinking they will work with... the stock perches.... any thoughts?
What is the diameter of the springs? If they are 2.5", you need aftermarket perches and shocks.
You need to know the inside and outside diameters before you do anything.
I am taking a set out of my car today, I will let you know and take pictures post backup tonight. I am prepping to install a set of threaded bodies over my Bilstiens. QA1s are great spring for the $$, they are flat ground on each end. I am using hte 14" length, but in retro spec I should have went with a shorter spring and added a set of take up springs.
Jegs is local to me, so I get stuff same day if need be.
those won't work unless you have aftermarket perches on your shocks.
yep... 2.5 X length.. works with aftermarket perches
btw 914forme... i used 8" coils on my car and shoulda gone with 10's LOL
8 10 or 12" springs all work on bilsteins...
Stock Shock cap is ~4"
Stock Spring Inside is ~3.25"
QA1 OD = 3.45" the ID is 2.563" excatly.
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I added some 2.5" spacers to keep the springs center on the bilsteins. 14" springs means you can spin hte not down by hand to the last 1/2" turn, they you need a small wrench. This is with the collar at 1/2 way. My old 140lbs where also 14" long. But the problem is a 140 lbs spring will allwow the rear to sit a little lower than the 175 lbs will. Forgot that little detal. Yeap that is PVC Electrical conduit.
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why not buy real coilover sleeves from coleman....
i'm with aaron on that one... a spring that slips on its perch can create some 'interesting' handling.
its like 40 bucks per side to do it right......
you got the springs... now get the right perches (and gain corner balancing and infintie ride height adjustability)
cheap... and its made for the task.
I am way ahead of you guys, I ordered them all ready, should be here today. That is why the rear shocks are off my car. When I put them together I had to do this, now I am fixing my issues. I know that will never happen
The Coleman pieces are the way togo, cheap, simple, proper solution. Mine was cheap, simple, but rigged to make to the next event.
Colemann Parts came in I am off to the shop and see what I can figure out on the installation.
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They can be installed properly (without the hat floppin' around) with a bit of messin' with em'.
A pic.
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Mini-tip: Don't wrench the zip ties down tight. Leave about 1/8" gap so springs can't move away from the hat's lip. Should prevent the ties frm breaking.
Okay so did you heat the sleave in the oven or with a torch? I used a oven first, and then got 2/3 of the way down, and then it stuck, so I grabbed my tourch.... Okay just to let you know I am classing myself as an Moron!!!! Got it to slip down and then I walked away to let it cool. Cameback an hour latter to find oil all over the floor.
Anybody know how to rebuild a Bilstein sport????? The DIY method would be great.
How hot do you heat these to to get them on? My buddy suggesed honning them, press them on, and using red locktight, to set them. Hindsight is 20/20!
dude.. they slip right on. you bought the wrong collars....
2.04" ID are what i bought... and i bought the magic adapter ring for bilsteins to take up the slack.....
not a press fit... loose... but not scary loose.
LOTS of pics in my blog
AA
JP... 2.04" is the number... and the number shall be 2.04"
my collars were a little loose... they sell an adapter ring that sits on the stock bilsteing spring clip but takes upthe gap between the coleman collar and the bilstein shcok......
ID of adapter = bilstein OD
OD of adapter = ID of collar
5 bucks each... from coleman.
I know....that's good for the bottom, but what about the top?
So JP What did you do for the top? I have a busing that will fit there, but then it still has a bit of slop.
[url= http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7848]Coleman Racing Shrink fit[/url] This is what I used, seem to work perfectly except the oil boiling part. I think I will try it again since I need to send the one back might as well send both back and get them redone correctly. Hopefully they don't laugh to hard at my Coleman Engineering debacle!!!
Nomenclature can get us in trouble here, but I'll give it a shot.
If you look at the pic you'll notice the top nut(sleeve nut?) fits inside the aluminum hat.
The radius of the nut does not match the Non radiused hat....thus the flange of the nut does not seat to the inner hat. I butterflied the hat till it did...If you don't have a die grinder, you could use a round rat tail file to make the radii match.
Then...the rubber bushing needs a big flat washer under it...see pic. the rubber bushing needs to be about half as thick as it originally was.....so you can get the lock nut on up on top.
Some set-ups are different....sleeve nut/bushing/yada. Aaron has one of those.
BTW, use 5-6 turns of saftey wire to hold the spring to the hat. Zip ties break.
I thought of that tonight, could not figure out how to make the rubber work correctly, I now have all the piece in my head cool. Scary when that happens......
Or Sh___ I am starting to think like an old man.
Thanks J P
did you look at the pics in my blog??
ok.. time to gang bang your brain with pics....
adapter rings....
the bottom of the sleeve
adapter ring inside of sleeve
installed...note stock circlip AND adapter ring
that takes care of the bottom....
top pics coming
But wait...theres more johnny!
The top of the piston. has a ridge on it. Install stock washer there...
followed by spring hat and ziptied spring
then the BIG flat washer (it wont fit under the hat)
now the fun....
you have to trim the flat part of this ring off..... (aleady done)
and den.... you tighten it down.... (its a threaded nut and spacer basically)
rubber goes over it....
put the rubber over it... install it... put the top rubber on... then the other flat washer... and the nylock
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