Here's a couple of shots of the rear hubs I just had finished today.

I had custom bosses made to put an end to that debate. They'll be TIG welded on (lower heat). Brad... cell phones sucked this AM. Sorry... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Looks nice Eric!

I guess I've got to be the one to ask though, why?

I'd like to see one set of redrilled rear hubs that failed. I've sold probably 20 rear kits, I know Rich Johnson has probably twice that amount, GPR probably ten times that amount; and no reported failures.

This arguement has been going on awhile, but I've never seen a the problem that you've fixed.

Don't get me wrong, this isn't meant as an insult or attack.

The other thing is who out there is going to pay? I've sold rear five lug kits at a rock bottom price of $340, and guys still try to beat me up on that price.

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Cause the machinist did'em for free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with everything you say but... a "few" others will constantly bitch and whine. So, the real reason? This allows the studs to be offset the same distance off the backside of the hub. Otherwise you would either have to grind down the only boss used or have 4 studs about 1/4" longer than the 5th. They probably don't even have to be TIG'd on there.

Regarding price. I'm looking at offering a complete 5-Lug system with control arms for $425.00-$450.00. That includes:

Bead blasted, refinished control arms
New Bushings
New Bearings and,
These 5-Lug hubs

You've sold these type of things before... they can either add this stuff up and figure it out or not. If not, they can do it themselves and save the dough. It really doesn't matter to me.

Thanks for the comments. I agree 100%

Might want to bead blast that hub prior to welding, I know I would appreciate a clean surface to give you some sweet beads.

Erik

Not really. You need to spot face the rear of the hub anyway so that the studs will sit flat. You spot face all 5 locations to the same height so that there is no difference in stud height.

Demick

Thanks Demick,

The rear is spot faced... on the 4 locations the ring bosses sit. If I spot faced the 5th location it would basically grind down the only factory boss used. I didn't see the point. Also, if that was done the studs would sit out about 1/4" further than intended. I'm sure a standard 911 lug nut has the clearance but... Want a picture without the ring bosses?

Fear not. They'll be bead blasted clean prior to welding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Actually, with your bosses, you may need longer than standard wheel studs. 911 hubs are approximately the same thickness as the thin portion of the 914 rear hubs, so the stock length works perfectly. If you are only adding 1/4 inch to that with your ring spacers, you should be fine, but any more and you will need longer studs. Since 911's mostly use closed ended lug nuts, there isn't a lot of extra stud length to play with.

Demick

They are different. 911 hubs measure 8mm. 914 hubs spot faced to the orignal surface measure 5mm. The ring boss is 3mm and the 5th hub is faced to that. I used a 911 hub as a reference.

Thanks again.

Sounds like you did your homework! Nice job!

Demick

I am pretty sure the hubs are made of an alloy much tougher than 1020 mild steel.
A minimum filler wire strength of 80,000 lb and a small but convex (high in the middle) bead shape is called for IMO.
You don't need a lot of strength to hold the rings in place, but the welds might crack unless overfilled a little.

What alloy are the rings?

the spot faces should have a small radius..the spacers should have a larger radius as well...

looking at the pictures, it looks like the spacers have a radius or a chamfer, that is good........


anyone know if the original threads are cut or rolled???