After reading so many of the restoration threads on here I finally decided to try and save my own underpowered go-kart from completely rusting away.

So far I've removed 90% of the tar from the interior. Things look better then I thought they would in some areas, and worse in others.

Excuse the bad quality pics, they're taken with my cell phone.

The firewall behind the seats has no rust on it and the interior longs look great, also no real rust or corrosion to speak of in the typical area behind the passenger seat where the battery leaks through to... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)

However, small rust holes that need to be cut out behind the drivers seat... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)

Sorry, I know these are horrible pics, but the money I would have spent on a new digital camera are going to repair the 914 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

I haven't removed the rocker panels yet (I need to get more floor jacks first), so not sure yet what's under there, but the inner longs look good...

Looks good! Did you attack them with a big screwdriver, just to be sure. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif) Looking forward to more pictures of progress. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)

So here's where I'm at now. I have 90% of the tar removed, haven't yet touched the center console. I've been using a torch to melt and assist with removing the tar.

Questions:

1) What do I use to get rid of that white seam sealer stuff? That sh*t is a PITA. I can melt it off, but it takes a LONG time, and the fumes are less than pleasant.

2) Is removing the wire harness that lays on top of the center channel difficult? I want to remove the tar on the center channel so I can coat it in POR15 as well, but am a little afraid of moving the wires for fear of damaging 30 yr old wires without knowing it. Also, is it easy to disconnect from the engine compartment while the engine is in??

3) I need to remove the pedal cluster so I can grind and rust treat the floor there, and also so I can rebuild the cluster, but can I remove it without having to re-bleed the brakes? (The Haynes guide hasn't helped me in this area)

4) Is it hard to remove and then re-install all of the cabling that goes through the tunnel? (There is rust in it, so I need to try and treat the inside of it- ideas on HOW to do this would be greatly appreciated. Do they make POR 15 in a spray?

Pictures of the rusty tunnel (only appears to be surface rust though):

Do all 914s have holes cut into the center channel up by the pedal cluster??

(again, sorry for the bad pics)

Buying an angle grinder tomorrow to start getting to it. What's the best attachment to use to get rid of the rust? A wire cup style?

1. There's no good way to remove the seam sealer. Heat, wire wheels, etc. It's all a PITA.

2. The wiring harness comes out as one big piece. Which means everything electrical must be disconnected. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) You can push it out of the way.

3. To remove the pedal cluster, pull the accelerator pedal at the top towards the back of the car. It will pop off the rod. Undo the two bolts at the base (probably VERY VERY rusty). Undo the two nuts at the base of the pedal cluster itself. The brake master cylinder will remain intact (no bleeding) but the brake MC pushrod will come out along with the cluster. Unhook the clutch and accelerator cables.

4. The cables all run through tubes in the center tunnel. They are not removable.

The hole next to the pedal cluster was because the clutch cable tube is welded there and often breaks away. Someone cut open the tunnel to fix it (they didn't need to be this drastic to fix that problem, FYI).

Be aware that POR-15 does not kill rust. It just stops it from forming. Make sure to properly neutralize rust with Metal Ready (from the POR-15 people). IMHO, POR-15 itself is unnecessary, but it can't hurt.

Keep up the gud work.

QUOTE

McMark Posted on Jan 23 2006, 10:41 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. There's no good way to remove the seam sealer. Heat, wire wheels, etc. It's all a PITA. 2. The wiring harness comes out as one big piece. Which means everything electrical must be disconnected.  You can push it out of the way. 3. To remove the pedal cluster, pull the accelerator pedal at the top towards the back of the car. It will pop off the rod. Undo the two bolts at the base (probably VERY VERY rusty). Undo the two nuts at the base of the pedal cluster itself. The brake master cylinder will remain intact (no bleeding) but the brake MC pushrod will come out along with the cluster. Unhook the clutch and accelerator cables. 4. The cables all run through tubes in the center tunnel. They are not removable. The hole next to the pedal cluster was because the clutch cable tube is welded there and often breaks away. Someone cut open the tunnel to fix it (they didn't need to be this drastic to fix that problem, FYI). Be aware that POR-15 does not kill rust. It just stops it from forming. Make sure to properly neutralize rust with Metal Ready (from the POR-15 people). IMHO, POR-15 itself is unnecessary, but it can't hurt.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) Gud advice.

QUOTE

rjames Posted on Jan 23 2006, 10:35 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buying an angle grinder tomorrow to start getting to it. What's the best attachment to use to get rid of the rust? A wire cup style?

A wire cup style will help, I also used the flapper type (it looks like beveled sandpaper) make sure you wear eye protction. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Yes be sure and use a rust neutralizer on the rust or you'll just be covering it up with the POR-15 paint. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) Ospho or metal-ready or something ...

hey... your'e doing what i just did... / am still doing.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Snflupigus.com's 914 issue blog

tips from someone who JUST got them from here... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

things to buy... knotted wire wheel, and other wire wheels. 3m paint removal discs, maybe some aircraft stripper paint stripper, assorted scrapers, a drill that can handle extended use.

Tar - heat large patches, be patient, it CAN come up in larger vs smaller chunks. Heat gun and heavy duty gasket scraper (not kind with a razor blade) and some other drywall type scrapers.

After tar - they say brake cleaner works... but search my name and rust and you will find some other suggestions. I used brake cleaner and got fumed high... not cool but it DOES take the tar residue left over from scraping off fast. Lots of blue shop paper towels and 2 cans of brake cleaner.

i've used a cheap sears angle grinder with a knotted wire cup wheel for the seam sealer fast but makes a damn mess. Lots of heat might go faster but danger to metal more likely. I for other various non floor paint removal I used the grinder and a drill with a coarse wire wheel cup for most but also use some little wire wheels. 3m buff pads on a drill and the twist lock pads.

Takes some trial and error but you can get it done. I think most people use the twist lock discs or similar and a right angle air grinder to speedily get down to metal.

I just got a flapper wheel disc for the angle grinder, 80 gritt - should get the rest of my work done. I'll send you more pics of my progress. Let me know if you find anything that makes life easier that i didnt mention.

o, and in case you were serious... no, not al 914s have holes up there.

Thanks to all....God, I love this website! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

QUOTE

4. The cables all run through tubes in the center tunnel. They are not removable.

Any advice on treating the rust in the center tunnel since I can't remove the cables?
I have some 'frame saver' that I've used in steel bike frames to keep them from rusting, I imagine that the stuff is similar to any other rust inhibitor out there, but if I use this, or some spray version of metal ready (do they make it?) will I be risking damage to the cables in the tunnel?

Also... the firewall behind the seats looks great. Just some glue from the back pad, but the paint is all intact, with no sign of bubbling or anything. I assume I'm cool leaving any painted surface that looks good in tact (i.e. not grinding down to bare metal.)


You guys rock. Am digging your blog Snflupigus!

Metal Ready comes in a spray bottle!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rocking nana.gif)

Perry kiehl wrote a good article for cleaning up the tunnel, do a search.

Angle grinder is good, I got the milwaukee knotted style wire wheel, worth the money over the cheaper ones.

Aaaaahndy has a post in the "Classics" section about R&R of the body wiring harness, which is what you're talking about when you want to remove the wires on top of the center tunnel.

--DD

QUOTE

Metal Ready comes in a spray bottle!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)

Sweet, but can I just spray it over the surface rust in the center channel while the cables are in there? Will I damage the cable? Will it have any impact on the surface rust?


btw, I really dig the dancing banana (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

The cables are in tubes, vacume out any loose rust, take a big wire wheel or like a pipe cleaner and run it up and down by hand getting the loose stuff off, vacume some more, use an air blower as well, then spray that stuff on there...

More pics, plus finally got the driver's side rocker panel off.
Happy to say that it looks fairly good.

Broke the heads off of the underside rocker panel screws off in the process though. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

rjel