OK, school me
I got my pencil, gimme something to write on

does the plastic tank need to be mounted at the same height as the filler neck? mine is odwn low

the brown hose to the left of teh radiator cap goes to a plactic bottle. it is ismilar to yours but mounted low since the Jacobs computer is in teh way. prehaps I should move the ignition system to teh rear trunk to allow mounting of a plastic tank like teh one you showed me here

Glad to hear your running a expansion tank!

The expansion tank needs to mounted as high as you can get it since all you have is a small amount of vacuum to pull water back into system during cool down.

The expansion tank can be used to determine flaws in system and I recommend having something that you can see (water increase/decrease) as your troubleshooting. If your not pulling water back into system as it transitions from being hot to cold, you've got a leak in system and allowing air, not water back in. FYI, the tank you see in my picture is the larger version......where I picked mine up there was the same rig but about half size.

What about your gage? Are you sure your getting accurate readings?

John

travis: thanks for teh relay. Sue and I were just looking at this photo and talking about the nice guy that rushed up with the spare parts that day. we broke down up there and didnt even care. the views were amazing as teh ride its self. we never got out of 2nd gear

John, I see teh level of water change during cooldown by about 10-16 oz after a purge and re-fill. does a radiator shop do a presure test of teh system? I think my fill tank has an air leak at teh neck. it girgles there a bit

it fizzles under the radiator cap about an inch below where the neck joins the body of teh AL tank

who tig welds in San diego? how much should I expect to pay for that bead around the neck

Sean, you might get away with just using some high-temp epoxy to seal that air leak, since it's just a small seam between the two parts. I'm assuming the upper piece is crimped on somehow and doesn't need a mechanical repair for strength.

I'll wait to find a welder. I do all my own welding but I dont have teh equipment to do AL. I'll try FLAPS for p-tetser rental.

I am also going to relocate teh exp tank up higher, even with the fill tank

I have a bigger Griffin radiator coming but I want to sort it out first with this one . since it shold work as is, this is an indicator of something else wrong

how much fan do I need? I have 2 each Hays 11" pullers @600cfm ea

thanks for the help guys.

I pulled the AL fill tank to fix teh leak at the crimp seam. as I start to clean it, I see a hole in the hose fitting so I clean that for repair also. well, an entire section caved in from the wire brush. then i notice a pin hole in teh neck, then one on teh backside. this thing is swiss cheese. it is not worthy of tig welding. I have a new tube of JB weld and I intend to use it ALL. I'll make an entire tank out of it if I have to. I have a new Moroso tank for my other V8 car but I would have to re-plumb to use it since teh ins and outs are in different places

we need a smiley face hugging a tube of JB weld. I made an entire mounting ear on a chevy alternator once. I think it is still in service 15 years later

Sean,

When you think you've got the leaks fixed rent one of these. Allot easier than trying to find hot liquids under car.

http://www.partsplus.com/shared/Marketing/...oCoolingSys.pdf

John

what temp is TOO HOT?
what temp is OK hot
is 200 to 220 OK for diving around?

Also- DO NOT use "JB Kwik" its not the same as the old school JB WELD.. The JB Kwik cures too fast and isn't worth a damn compared to the real stuff..

I once fixed a crack in the crankcase of an Abarth tuned Fuhrmann 547 4 cam Carrera engine with JB weld, and it still holds today...... Yes guys- Thats a 100K buck engine fixed with 5 bucks worth of JB weld!

QUOTE (sean_v8_914 @ Aug 2 2005, 10:01 PM)

what temp is TOO HOT? what temp is OK hot is 200 to 220 OK for diving around?

You'll get many answers to that question depending who you ask. 180F has been a satisfactory temp. for as long as I can remember but you do see some v8s that run a steady 210 or so all day long and were designed that way. My 89 corvette is an example but for the 914s and older blocks, I believe 180F should be your target as a normal temperature.

On a really hot day in bumper to bumper traffic, it may go up to 200-210 but should cool back down to 180 once you get above 45 mph. My 350 equipped 914, on a hot day (90+) with a/c blowing, would run 180-185 on the highway and would go as high as 200-210 in bumper to bumper traffic. Turn off the a/c and the temp. would drop 10 degrees or so. If the outside temp were below 90F, my water temp. never went above 180F.

I recommend a accurate, calibrated gage to determine what is going on and prefer a mechanical for this purpose. This will rule out any electrical fluctuations and error in temp. readings that may occur.

John

Where are you buying the expansion tank in the picture? I need one and have not seen one at my FLAPS?

Here are a few and this is the way they need to be plumbed up.Expansion Tanks

QUOTE (1bad914 @ Aug 3 2005, 05:49 AM)

Where are you buying the expansion tank in the picture? I need one and have not seen one at my FLAPS?

Bought mine at Autozone. If you don't have any luck locally, here's a connection via ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COOLANT-REC...sspagenameZWDVW

John

The hexagonal shaped tank is Renegades with 1" dia Inlet/outlet. The round tanks Bob posted seem ok but the inlet/outlet sizes are smaller and they are only $15-20 cheaper than Renegades ~$75...

Plastic overflow or recovery tanks are found at FLAPS. They are cheap and "disposable" as I've found they crack or fittings to break probably due to my engine compartment heat. Ceramic headers should minimize heat and it helps to see the level as compared to aluminum recovery tanks.