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> 914/6 2.0 engine width, Exact measurement?
Lawrence
post Apr 11 2003, 05:38 PM
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All you can do is try to install them. If they don't fit, shave it down. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-Rusty
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Brad Roberts
post Apr 11 2003, 06:20 PM
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HUm.. I looked under "Muellers6" and I maybe its the passenger side that needed to be done.

OK. Stock 6 needs to be shaved (I dont run them that often) I surface the stock ones and go on.

You shouldnt have any problem with the headers.


OH>>> duh.. to get them off the car... one side does need to be shaved for the stock 6 HE's. It wont come off the studs.

Stock early lower:

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Brad Roberts
post Apr 11 2003, 06:21 PM
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Stock turbo:

B
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Brad Roberts
post Apr 11 2003, 06:21 PM
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Stock Turbo shaved:

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mskala
post Apr 11 2003, 09:31 PM
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Mike, I did some looking under the car tonight. As
if you haven't been measuring, but ... At least the
lift is wider than the distance between the
suspension console by about an inch and a half.

So to do the drop, it looks like remove muffler,
remove heat exchangers, remove tin, heater
hoses. Not the worst, but takes some time and
reaching for things like the bolts on the front of
the tin.

To get the tin down past the lift ramps you would
need to move the left ramp all the way left that
it will go, and then getting the car in just the
right place will be tight.

I hate to remove everything if it's not necessary,
so one alternative that I might look into sometime
is to get a couple serious pieces of angle stock to
go under the car near the front and rear donuts
(with wood I think) and large tow truck straps over
the lift, use the lift over the car. It sure is hard
work to be lazy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://members.rennlist.com/marks/build.gif)
Mark S.
'70 914-6
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Gint
post Apr 11 2003, 10:14 PM
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QUOTE
It sure is hard work to be lazy  
Mark S.

Heh. I considered using the cherry picker even.

I waited too long to try and get a standing tranny jack. I think I'll drain the tank and the sump, pull the carbs, linkage, wiring, fuel lines, MSD, battery, HE's/exhaust, shifter rod and driveshafts with the car on the lift. Then I'll bite the bullet and roll it on over to the concrete pad on the side of the house and get the jacks out from there.

Tranny has to come off the motor so I can get it on the engine stand and get it sealed and cleaned up. The carbs need to be re-bushed. The HE's need some straightening that can only be done off the car. Tranny needs to be sealed, and I may even convert it to a SS while I'm at it.

This will end up being just short of a resto by the time it's done.
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Gint
post Apr 19 2003, 11:02 PM
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mskala:
QUOTE
Mike, let me know how this goes. A while back I measured
that it would take around 6" of lift widening to get the engine
out with the sheetmetal on.


Mark, FYI

I had the motor on one of the lift rails until I got it on the engine stand. Once that was accomplished I lifted the lift up above the motor/stand and got a good look at the motor when it was directly between the rails. With the tin off, it clears by 1/2" total. Now that I have the experience of pulling the motor out and removing the tin, I realize that the motor can be re-installed without the tin whit the car on the lift. It shouldn't be very difficult to re-install the tin once the motor has been lifted above the rails and before raising it all the way into the engine bay. The motor and bay will be much cleaner than also.
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