Thanks Scott

here's a link to the input/output spreadsheet Chris build

hydr.clutch spreadsheet

Well a couple of weeks and 600$ and it’s done.

Here’s the before and after photos. If anyone’s interested I will attach a list of components. BTW, no major cuts in the firewall. The new compact Tilton masters and Gurling remote reservoir cylinders fit tightly but do fit. I think the pedal cluster is maybe 2” closer to the seat but still feels fine for me (5’, 11” tall).

Chris

Not sure why the pics are so large there set to 800 x 400

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Is that bottom plate that the hydraulic pedal assembly and throttle pedal mount to custom.

That unit is sure pretty,but I went for a more simplistic route.
I bought a 964 pedal assembly at Hershey this past year for $50 .00 bucks and it grafted perfectly to the side of the 914 unit.
Works good with the Wilwood slave cyl.

Installed pic


Ron

damn Chris...that looks killer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Ron, have you had any problems bleeding air out of the system??

Hey Ron, I wish I could have gone that route, I mean the 50$. I actually tried many things prior to going to this extreme. Since I am running the high torque ~450 ft lbs chevy install, the clutch required a little more input force then the stock pedal could handle. I found that the pedal assy was flexing and the master cylinder which I mounted to the firewall was also in need of additional rigidity. So rather then cut and weld, I decided to drop in a dedicated unit. To each his own........


And yes sj914 that is a custom lower plate assembly. I wanted a complete drop in assembly- throttle and all. I deally I would have welded in plates but this car has already gone through all of that and paint. So it's brackets and rivots at this point.

Chris

No problems bleeding air outa the unit.
I made the wife do the pedal pumpin while I laid on my back underneath workin the bleed screw on the Wilwood slave cyl.
I haven't touched the car in about 3 month's cause I've been workin on other things,but the other day I sat in it and hit the clutch pedal.Still workin fine,no leaks,and no air in the system.


Ron

How did you reinforce the floor where the peddle assembly is attached? From what I see it appears this assembly would still tend to flex if it is only mounted to the sheet metal floor pan. Is there a brace under the cylinders we can't see? I like the double brake master setup.

(edit) never mind went back to the photos and looked again.

So does this mean you are using dual brake master cylinders which allow you to set the bias front/rear? Is this a kit or did you put this together yourself? Care to share the parts list/supplier?

Guys,

yes this is a custom setup, not a kit. I took the Tilton dual peddle assy and an aftermarket 914 aluminum pedal set and melded them together with a large baseplate. The large plate allowed me to:
1, attach the throttle pedal and OEM linkage pivot assembly
2, spread the load over a broader area - Rick you are right I did add a support brace directly behind the two brake masters. The brace is tied directly to the welded body seam behind the pedals and boxes the entire assembly.-- very stiff
3, raise the assembly ~1/2", allowing me to locate the pedals ~1" further back.
4, install and remove the entire assembly.

If anyone is considering this keep in mind cost was about 600-700$ (purchased parts), and I spent at least 20 hours fabricating all the brackets and installing the assembly. Although most of the work was done on the bench there is fair amount of under-the-dash time required to test fit, ect.. One other thing to note, I used flexible braided lines off all the master cylinders. This simplified the install but added to the cost. I am also not sure what this will do to peddle feel. Typically hard lines are run straight to the back of the masters but that would have really complicated the install.


Chris


Take a close look at this photo and you should see the rear brace