So my high beams don't stay on. They light up while I've got the lever pulled back but they go dark when I let go. Even the blue indicator works in sync with the lights themselves, lit while they're on and off when they're dark. The low beams work normally, they turn on on the next cycle of the switch and remain on until cycled again (see above). The green parking light indicator works as it should. I would like to get this straightened out before I install the H4's sitting in their boxes.

The car did sit for 13 years, in a garage until I moved to a house with no garage for the last year.

I'm hoping this sounds familiar to someone here...

TIA,
Eric

does the relay click when high beams engage?

i bet its a relay issue

I'll have to check when I get home...

I'd bet on a faulty relay. You may be able to pull the cover off of it and clean up the contacts.

--DD

Like dave said, headlight relay. I had exactly the same symtoms, and same diagnosis. The big silver relay(I think) on the back of the fuse box.

Yes, it's your dimmer relay, symbal "J" on the Curret Flow diagram, a little square alum. housed relay located on the back of the fuse panel. Change it.

Phil

Unless the relay has a catch / latch built in when the hi beam is triggered it stays on, then its in the colom switch. If the relay and hi beam work while holding the switch in the colom tells me the relay and lights are working. The relay is the simple thing to blame but I think everyone on this post may be wrong. A relay only works when voltage is applied to it's coil unless it has an mechinal catch or latch built in it??

Oh my god, he said Dave Darling may be wrong! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

dont worry DD is not wrong it is a latching relay

or a flip flop relay some people call it a KERRY relay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif)

It's a latching relay, at least on a 74. The latch mechanism is not the most robust design. Mine was acting up, I bought a brand new one from PP and it also did not work right until I took the can off and manually 'massaged' it a few times. I suppose it's due to the 'new' part probably having been on a shelf for God-knows how long.

Let me see if I've got this right (probably over simplified):

So the Hi/Lo switch is just provides a bump to the relay to toggle between the two light circuits? That would keep most current under the dash and out of the column.

If so, Pretty slick, those germans...

Yup, that's how it works! I'm not sure about the Six, though. The 911 (of 1982 vintage) works differently--the relay is not latching, the switch has the latching mechanism. Which I need to get out there and replace some time soon...

--DD

Well at least I worded it right as in (may be wrong!) That's what I like about this form you can learn somthing new everyday!!

OK, so my replacement relay finally showed up and the current part labelled 111 941 583 has an extra terminal, it's name is 30. I tried moving the wire from the dimmer switch to the new terminal, but neither configuration did anything at the relay, no click and the headlights stayed on low.

Does anyone have any idea about this extra connection?

In the mean time, I've smacked my old relay around a bit, and the relay will lock on high about half the time, much better than none of the time, like before.

"Help me, Mr. Wizard"

Eric

IIRC, you have to add a jumper wire to connect pin 30 to the red wth a white tracer that is connected to pin 56. The red with a white tracer feeds power to the light circuit. and the relay toggles that connection between the yellow wire on pin 56a, and the white wire on pin F. Pin S connects to a yellow with a red tracer wire, and that is connected to the turn signal switch. When it grounds pin S, the relay is momentarily energezed, toggling the state of the contacts to change the beam.


Bottom line. Put a jumper from pin 30 to pin 56. Pin 56 can be identified by the red with a white tracer wire.

Man, I love this board. Quick answers to obscure questions. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

Of course, I haven't actually tried the latest suggestion yet, from what I understand most the advice on this board could lead to the early demise of my new relay, or the whole car could go up in flames, or there might be a huge crater where my house used to be. I'll be trying this when I get home so keep a watch on the news for unusual flying objects or seismic activity around Pasadena tonight (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Sounds like the new relay may not be correct , extra terminal and all. Can you pop the top off the old one and spray it with an lubercant/contact eletronics cleaner to get the latching part going.

The old relay has been NLA for almost a couple decades. The new one has an extra terminal, and you have to install a jumper as noted. I never remember what it is you have to jumper, so I'm glad someone else posted the exact details!!

--DD

Gee, Clay... You need a hug now?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/tongue.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wavey.gif)

(HAH!! Betcha thought that last one would be the "finger" smiley, huh? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) )

--DD