Ok so I'm working on a 1971 914-4 which from another thread it appears to have a 75-76 2.0 912E L-Jet FI system on it from the PO.

I have plumbed new fuel lines through out the car, cleaned fuel tank and it has fresh gas.

I went through the dual relay and redid it all which I did find one wire on the wrong terminal from the diagram I had.

The previous symptom was that it would start and then die when the key was released. So I threw a battery in it and yep that's what it does. It will fire and run momentarily then die.

First issue is that I don't hear the fuel pump run. It's currently wired from the original harness with some PO adds ons like a fuse. It is not wired to the dual relay but back into the harness that runs to the relay box. I put a meter on it while testing and didn't ever see any voltage. So to make sure this wasn't the issue I hot wired it to run off the battery while I tested that. But that didn't fix the main issue.

Next item is that the ignition switch looks like it's from the movies and has been hot wires. Of course they did it through and around the knee pad so I'm digging into that now. I unwired it so I could remove the knee pad.

From the ignition switch area there looks like 4 wires. red, red/black stripe, a black and a gray. The gray one wasn't hooked to anything.

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From the harness there were 5 wires. The Black/Yellow and Blue/Yellow weren't hooked to anything.

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I'll start researching the wiring diagrams but anyone want to post a response to short cut this would be appreciated.

Also the key/cylinder feels pretty bad so anyone recommend someone who can go through it? I saw a guy on ebay listing this but looking for recommendations as it will need something eventually.

If it cranks and fires with the key that's good. The wiring may be a mess but at least some of it is connected correctly. Check power to the coil with the key on. If that is good. Check to see the fuel lines are connected correctly. The pressure regulator should be last in the fuel flow direction. (after the injectors) This will cause the exact symptom you described.

The key cylinders are fairly simple. It may just need a clean and lube. Be careful taking it out as it has little wafers of different sizes that match up to your key. You have to get them back in the same way they came out. There are a bunch of threads about key cylinders.

Ignition switch is a known failure point. Changing it out is a good idea while you are in there. Save the old one as a spare.

I did check voltage at the coil and it stays at 12+ from key on, during cranking and key release.

I'm pretty sure fuel lines are correct. I did have to add a fuel filter as there wasn't one. I put it in front of the pump since it was 3/8 fittings and the pump inlet was 3/8 but 5/16 outlet. So fuel lines run from tank, to filter to pump to passenger injectors to nozzle on intake to driver injectors to some vacuum valve to pressure regulator back to tank. And let me say old gas really sticks up the shop. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

70-71 ignition column was sourced from the VW Type3. Lock is unique to the 914.

Ok,

You mention dual relay, that is Ljet fuel injection.
A 75 2.0 liter would be Djet fuel injection.

If it's Ljet you have a guy here names Timothy who is really good at the wiring, so change the title of yr thread to suck him in by mentioning
Ljet in the title....he won't be able to resist.. ( hi Tim)

Simple test.
Turn key to run
Remove rubber intake boot to that AFM ( air fuel meter)
Open the flapper door on the AFM, the fuel pump should come on and you should be able to hear it.
If not, you need to troubleshoot your Ljet system.

Rich

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=2&t=271077

Thanks r_towle I'll add L-Jet to title. Also need to update the description as it was estimated to be a 912E 2.0l FI from the thread above. There are some pics in that thread.

I'll try the AFM trick. But does that come from the 71 fuel pump operation or from the dual relay? As currently the fuel pump is not connected to the dual relay.

I know in one of the many bookmarks I've added recently there was a whole battery of tests to do for the FI. Which I'll have to find and print out for more troubleshooting.

Additional info.

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Ok first item the fuel pressure. I have what I would call the regulator as it has an adjustment screw. I also have something with a vacuum line. So I also hooked up my vacuum pump and pulled a vacuum on the first item to see if it was blocking the line. No luck. And turning the screw on the regulator didn't do anything for the pressure.

As for the rest, I'm off to message Tim to peek at this thread as it look likes there's lots wrong.

the 2nd time I did fix something underneath the fuel tank, my engine start and stop a few seconds until I noticed a sound that looks to be a fuel is not flowing. So raised up the fuel tank and notice I have a fuel hose that is crinkled, well drop the tank and check from the hole below the front trunk where the under cover pan is, to check if fuel hose is not crinkled. And that fixed my problem.

Well that is for my 75 1.8 Ljet and it can be another issue on yours or other cars.

I already found the kinked line under the tank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So I now have correct fuel pressure but I took this out as it's not opening. So what is it?

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I updated my chart above as I must of not read Tim's other post well for checking the AFM. I thought the pin #'s were for the harness not at the AFM. So updated chart numbers at AFM.

Nice chart, but I see some red flags. I'm curious if you're probing the right pins on the ECU connector?

Try this: put everything back together, including the fuel regulator. Now, find a way to jump pin 88d at the dual relay (should be a big black wire with red stripe) to the positive battery post. You should hear the fuel pump turn on. See if the car starts and stays on longer than 3 seconds. This will help isolate the problem and point us in a direction on how to further diagnose.

This is the correct fuel regulatur for the L-jetronic.Only the D-jetronic regulatur has a adjustment screw.

Gruss Ralf

Thanks for stopping by Tim. The chart is basically what I pulled from some of your replies to a similar topic. Thought it would be best to knock out the things you were probably going to ask. I may need to layout the whole harness wiring as it doesn't seem to line up with some of the pins you've pointed to. For instance there is no terminals in hole 8.

Also, to be clear my fuel pump is not currently wired to the dual relay (probably wired like a 71 D-jet) so that pin is open on the relay. Not sure if the jumping of terminals will get it to turn on since it's not part of the relay. Mine is wired into a factory looking harness that runs in front of the engine over to the relay/ECU area. I did jump it out to a battery previously to see if the car would run, but it would still die upon release of the key.

As for the fuel regulator if what is pictured is correct then should I also have one with a screw? I have both in the system....remember thread title is Frankenstein so not sure what I have from the PO and various people that were under the hood. I also tried applying a vacuum to this and did not get any flow through it. With it out of the system and the screw regulator one still in I have 35psi and flow back to the tank. If I put this back it I will have 75psi and applying a vacuum won't open it.

Tim is the man

Very interesting!

I am not good with part numbers, but a quick search on google revealed that the ECU is from a 77 VW Transporter?
We need to get a bearing on whats what with the wiring harness. Pin one at the ECU connector should be the injector signal from the negative post of the ignition coil. So, I would start there and check the resistance between pin one at the ECU connector to the negative post on the ignition coil, you should read 0 ohms.

If you don't read 0 ohms, move your meter probe to another pin at the ECU connector till you find 0 ohms. Since the car starts briefly, we can't be that far off.

Try to post additional pictures of the engine bay compartment.

Rich, you made my wife LOL last night after she read your post, it was much needed. We were re-grouting the kitchen floor yesterday with awful results

LOL, it seems to be a matter of perspective. Guess when the harness is on the bench I know which way to count but not when it's in the car. Figured that out when I had it laying on the bench again. So here's some more updates.

As for the fuel system here's it is back to how I received it but with new hoses. So you can see I have two regulators?

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I've updated the parts list with some more numbers.

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Here is my harness pin out. Note that mine does not have 2,3, 18 for the throttle but only 12 goes to the throttle switch. The rest seem to line up...when you count right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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And now the results are a bit better with the right pins but still seems to be some things not right. After I got it all back together I tried again and still starts right up and then dies.

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Here are the full bay shots.

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I'll turn a blind eye to your fuel delivery, being that you are getting 35 psi when you start the car, and even when it stalls, right? We can come back to that later

The biggest problem right now is pin 13 to engine ground. This is your cylinder head sensor, and is needed for your car to run. See if you can locate the cylinder head sensor which is located by the passenger side intake manifold, toward the rear of the car. Post a picture of that if you can

For Pin 13 yes it was to ground and I also did it from the pig tail on the passenger side to ground bypassing the harness and both were open. The wire disappears through a gromment. So I'll pop out the grommet and see what's there.

For the resistors I check the voltage at the plug at the resistors, unplugged from the resistors.

Yes at harness means at the ECU end of the harness. And pin 12 does ring out at the throttle switch. No pins 2,3, or 18 in harness.

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For the coil one of the first items I did was have the meter on it and it maintains 12v from key on, start to key release...so I didn't jump to it as it didn't seem necessary.