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> Shall I say... 3.6?, my conversion thread ...
SirAndy
post Apr 25 2007, 10:46 PM
Post #181


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got some more stuff done, just for the giggles, here's the current "todo" list ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)



Engine Swap Related Work *

Electrical *

Add fuel pump wiring. *
Test fit engine wiring harness. *
Mount ECU. *

Oil *

Fabricate oil cooler exit ducting. *
Weld in oil cooler inlet floor. *
Mount oil thermostat. *

Fuel *

Hook up fuel lines. *
Fabricate fuel filter mount. *
Fuel pump mount mods. *

Engine *

Test fit engine tin, and modify as necessary. *
Install breather plugs. *
Install 3.2 intake elbow. *
Install cam covers. *
Install throttle cable. *
Install new valve cover gaskets. *
Change engine oil and replace on engine filter. *
Install Headers/Exhaust/Muffler *
machine 914 flywheel ringear to fit 993 flywheel *
clean *

Transmission *

clean *
fix leaking speedo angle drive *
change oil (swepco) *
add JWest shifter set *
fabricate shiftrod *
notch for flywheel sensor *


Other Work *

Weld cage. Reweld cut joints (sleeves?) *
reweld Cage to targa bar attachment plates. *
Seam-Weld front suspension mounts. *
Alignment *
Check torque on all suspension, brake, etc bolts and nuts. *
Corner Balance *
Install front strut inserts. *
Fabricate tray for fire extinguisher *
Fix broken front trunk release cable *
Add JWest fuse block *
Add H4 100W headlights *
Add JWest Flasher upgrade *
Add Camp Euro Turnsignal kit *
Add Camp Pilot light kit *
Install 5-point harness *
Mount and reseal new rear window *
Install missing grommet for fuelline at the firewall *
Get tank repaired, boiled, cleaned and powedercoated *
Check inner CV joints bolt thread-depth *
Seam sealer for drivers side rear fender to trunk *
weld in hood shock mounts *
weld cracked door brace on drivers side *
weld in door strap support on pass. side *
install 9/11 GT flares *
Install Front Windshield *
Clean mounting flange *
redo gauge wiring *
weld stamped floorpan holes shut *
remove air hoses behind rockers *
weld up holes for air hoses (routed behind the rockers) *
weld in antenna cable hole *
Weld in front suspension support bar. *
Weld in antenna hole cover *
Clean up weld spots on firewall *
Weld in headlight bucket supports *
straighten floorpan *
weld in brackets for the new ECU harness *



Shopping List *

Hose Mount Brackets *
Oil Inlet O-Ring * PN: 999.707.316.40 *
Six Cylinder Tach *
Distributor Belt * PN: 930.602.134.00 *
Distributor Vent * PN: 993.602.121.00 *
Black rubber windshield frame kit - ordered 04.03 *
electrical plug connectors for gauges *
set of front roller bearings *
Get additional rubber grommet for main harness @ engine shelf - EASY? *
felt tank pads *
Buthyl (sp?) kit for mounting the new rear window *
Spark Plug End *
JWest Shifter - ordered 04.02 *
Fuel Filter Fittings - do we need a second filter? *
Throttle Cable End *
Muffler(s) - shipped 04/04 *
Fuel Pump Fittings *
get new windshield - ordered 04.03 *
AN Fittings - ordered 04.18 *
Race Approved Roll Bar Padding *
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:37 PM
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moah pix!

it's amazing what a bit of touchup paint can do for the looks of things!
front trunk all straight, welded, cleaned, primered and painted with rattle can guards red ...

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from the front:

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oil cooler installed permanently and oil-lines attached:

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Andy
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:40 PM
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routing the lines inside the cabin to the rear firewall with the thermostat in the box:

Attached Image

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:42 PM
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3.6L FI-Brain mounted under the dash and cutout for the door for the 993 fuelpump location:

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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:43 PM
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993 brain/engine harness routing. we welded in metal tabs to hold down the harness ...

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Andy
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:45 PM
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and a view from the engine bay side of things. engine bay was primered and painted with rattle can guards red touchup paint.

you can see the 993 harness coming through the firewall as well as the two oil-line outlets (blocked off with red caps) on the thermostat box.

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mikelsr
post Apr 26 2007, 09:50 PM
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What type of oil lines are you using? Are those -16's or -12's fittings?

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Apr 26 2007, 10:43 PM) *

993 brain/engine harness routing. we welded in metal tabs to hold down the harness ...

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Andy

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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 09:57 PM
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QUOTE(mikelsr @ Apr 26 2007, 07:50 PM) *

What type of oil lines are you using? Are those -16's or -12's fittings?


-12

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mikelsr
post Apr 26 2007, 09:58 PM
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And the lines themselves?

Thanks

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Apr 26 2007, 10:57 PM) *

QUOTE(mikelsr @ Apr 26 2007, 07:50 PM) *

What type of oil lines are you using? Are those -16's or -12's fittings?


-12

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horizontally-opposed
post Apr 26 2007, 10:13 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Apr 26 2007, 08:40 PM) *

routing the lines inside the cabin to the rear firewall with the thermostat in the box:

Attached Image

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy


Eggs-cellent oil line routing. Fry the passenger, not the driver!

And much better than the awkward, toasty GT/916 oil-lines-as-dead-pedal setup. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

Curious on the blue rubber AN lines, though. Never seen em. Cheaper than braided? Easier to work with? Gee, I supposed factory oil lines are rubber and last a little while... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

pete
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 10:15 PM
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QUOTE(mikelsr @ Apr 26 2007, 07:58 PM) *

And the lines themselves?


OD is 1", not sure about the ID ...

i just happen to dislike the stainless steel braided stuff, so i went with the plain lines instead ...
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SirAndy
post Apr 26 2007, 10:19 PM
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QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Apr 26 2007, 08:13 PM) *

Eggs-cellent oil line routing. Fry the passenger, not the driver!

And much better than the awkward, toasty GT/916 oil-lines-as-dead-pedal setup. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

Curious on the blue rubber AN lines, though. Never seen em. Cheaper than braided? Easier to work with? Gee, I supposed factory oil lines are rubber and last a little while... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


yes, blue rubber lines are cheaper and easier to work with. a bit more flexible too. and i happen to hate them braided lines, so ...

as for the routing, i'm planning on making a aluminum cover plate for the cabin to go over the hoses and i'll put some insulation behind the cover as well.
that should do the trick.

plus, i don't plan on being a passanger in my car too often ...
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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 12:06 AM
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for those interested, here's a PDF with info on the oil-hose system used ...

http://www.914world.com/uploads/4281_b1.pdf (800k)

the blue hose is their "836 Hi-Temp, Heat-Resistant Hose"
operating range: up to 250 psi, 300 deg. F
burst pressure: 1000 psi

that should be plenty good ...
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McMark
post Apr 27 2007, 03:08 AM
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3/4" ID which corresponds to AN-12.
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db9146
post Apr 27 2007, 09:45 AM
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Glad to hear you're going to run a cover over the lines.....thoughts of hot oil spewing all over the inside of the car with you in it sounds too much like a Fry Daddy for me to be too comfortable w/o one.

Sort of like a Fry Andy instead!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)
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DrifterJay
post Apr 27 2007, 01:12 PM
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I have a 6 tach lying around...if ya need it...
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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 01:20 PM
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QUOTE(DrifterJay @ Apr 27 2007, 11:12 AM) *

I have a 6 tach lying around...if ya need it...


thanks for the offer man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

but i already ordered a autometer with a shiftlight ...
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DrifterJay
post Apr 27 2007, 01:23 PM
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Cool beans...I need to do the same...I am putting an 8 in mine..
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grantsfo
post Apr 27 2007, 01:53 PM
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Looking great! Curious are those lines fire resistant?
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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 02:11 PM
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QUOTE(grantsfo @ Apr 27 2007, 11:53 AM) *

Curious are those lines fire resistant?


my guess is no more or less than the factory rubber oil-lines.

interestingly enough, none of the typical raceshop outlets mention anything about "fire resistant" with their braided stainless oil-lines either.

both use a similar elastomer as the main component, so i'm not sure a thin layer of stainless mesh on the outside would help much in case of direct contact with flames.
both, the braided lines and the plain lines have the same max. operating temperatur (~300F), i'm guessing both will simply melt the elastomer when exposed to much higher temperatures (flames) ...

also keep in mind that both types have another inner layer of braided mesh sandwiched between the inner rubber and the outer rubber ...
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