First, I did perform a search and only Blondie's link came up.

I have several 914 shop manuals for adjusting ride height and that's not a problem. I don't like the way the front of the car seems to have its nose up in the air so I want to drop it a little, maybe an inch(?). Any big issues to doing this, like severly throwing the wheel alignment outta whack? Some day I'll want to put slightly firmer springs in the rear and have read that will lower the rear, thus I'll need to lower the front even more.

Aside from changing wheel diameter, what are other ways to lower the front?

Lowering the front is very simple! After jacking up the car:

1. Remove the lowering screw
2. Remove the torsion bar cap
3. Pry out the adjuster pivot with a screw driver
4. Replace adjuster pivot to lower position
5. Reassemble and repeat on the other side
6. Adjust ride height

Add Bump steer spacers and 4-wheel alignment!

Easy enough!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

Jeff

The lower limit is the shock travel.

You should remove the shock cover and see that you have about 11/2-2" travel left with the full weight of the car. You can put a tie wrap around the shock shaft to check if you bottom out while driving.

Another guide is to lower the car until the A arms are parallel to the ground. This usually leaves enough travel.

Ken

Oh - lowering will change the Toe-in and Caster so you should watch for tire wear. Toe will probably move to more "toe-out" which make may the steering a bit "loose".

Ken

Correction - moves to toe-in... Maybe

Ken

Take an 11mm long open ended wrench, and look just behind the wheels, in the middle of the a-arms, there are long 11mm nuts, aiming down. Clockwise lowers, CCW raises.

If you car lowering, and have skinny arms, you don't have to lift the car. try 1/2 to 1 turn at a time, a little goes a long way.

If you lower a half an inch, not a big deal. If you lower an inch, or more, your camber change will have you wandering thru the grooves on the interstate.

M

Ken,
Lowering via the A arms changes the Toe-in and Caster?????? I can see changes in camber but caster and toe in??
L. McChesney

If my car gets lowered an inch, it gets an alignment. Period.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Jeff

You know - I must have been half asleep when I wrote that post.

Yes it is the Camber that changes.

Sorry,

Ken

Yes, lowering changes the camber it's best to do a total alignment. If you lower too much you'll need to space the steering rack to elimanate "bumb steer". Also you may have to remove the top strut mount and grind the holes larger to allow you to move the struts more for camber adjustment. Be careful with some alignment shops, some will bend your struts to adjust for proper camber! Years ago, a popular shop here in So Cal did just that with 911's and 914's. The best way is raised spindles on the strut. Dave

Hmmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I didn't know they made dropped spindles for 914's. How much do those cost? They're around $300 for my air-cooled dub.

Gint & Kargeek, your info is what I needed, thanks.

Costs the same as a grinder and a welder (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I'm doing this too for the 1st time (on a 914) and the camber does change, but not radically for a small amount of drop, and it may only affect tire wear and steering "feel". The toe-in does increase enough I found if you lower it more than 1/2" (which is harldy noticable). And you can't drive real straight with too much of that.
Its because the tie rods are brought more parallel with the steering rack- when they're at an angle they need to be longer- more parallel they need to be shorter.
You can make a simple jig w/ 2x4"s to measure your toe in and just set it the same after you lower your car to make it drivable for a while-BUT an alignment after any suspension change is a good idea.
Its my take on in anyway.
Robert O

Raised spindles for 911-914-6 are available from some of the race shops, they remove and then weld the spindle higher on the strut housing and bend the steering arm back in relation to where it was. There would be two versions - one for the M caliper and the other for the alloy 911 caliper. I don't know about 4 cyl struts- they would have to be custom done. Patrick Motorsports might be a place to start.- ask. None of this is cheap; my guess is you could pay 500.00 for the setup. My car is lowered and properly aligned - rack spacers-and I wish I had them as I still have a small amount of bump steer. As said, lowering a small amount won't be a big deal.

I have rack spacers homemade and wish to lower the car to where the a arms are parallel to the ground. Will I need
to grind the top of the strut mounts for correct alignment?

F4i, Your camber and caster adjustments are done by loosening the 3-bolts on top of the strut mount and moving the strut within the holes in the top of the body mount. Sometimes there is not enough adjustment within the holes and you will need to grind the holes slightly larger to one side to get your camber adjustment. I have been there -done that with mine. My alignment guy has done it many times. You won't know if you have to do it until you get it aligned. Having to do it will vary with how much you lower and the variances in manufacturing from car to car. Dave H

So I may or may not depending on the car itself. Right?

Raising 914 spindles is different from raising 911 spindles. It requires cutting the tube instead of moving the spindle up on the tube.

Raised Spindles Here

(IMG:http://www.tangerineracing.com/images/Suspension&Brakes/FrontStrutMod.JPG)

Now, that's too cool and for only 272.00 bucks. I can see how you section and weld them. How much to do 911 struts? Dave