I spent 3 hours this weekend trying to get the torsion springs for the rear trunk back onto the hinges. They are all the way in the "neutral" position since I had to release tension and replace a hinge pivot some time back. How the heck do you get them back on?

Since I am pretty much giving up anyway, what is the preferred trunk shock kit to use these days and where can I get it?

You put the torsion bars back in position by using a deep-well ~10mm socket plus a longish extension. Or fake up a lever with a notch in the side somewhere near the end.

I'm not sure whose kit is preferred these days, but Camp Counsellor Craig does supply them, and he's a regular around here. Evill Ed did supply them at one point; not sure if he still does or not. Pelican used to carry them, but the last time I looked we had stopped for some reason. We might have picked them back up again in this latest catalog revision...

--DD

Dave, have you ever tried using the socket with the springs ALL the way back against the rear trunk? It doesn't work. You can't bring the bar all the way up and around the hinge post because the engine grille (the side pieces) is in the way

Brad gave me this tip about a year ago!! Best damn tool I ever made!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Jeff

looks cool, how do you use it?

Hook it on and push!!

It is very easy! Cut the end of the wrench and you can slide it over the bar, push it back into place and remove it!

Jeff

My car never had the bars hooked up. They show how to hook up the one end in the haynes manual around the roller, but how does the other end connect? Is there a picture of the whole assembly hooked up.

Push over 6 inches with 150 pounds of force you mean!!

I will try that. I was trying to use a jack handle this weekend with a notch cut out but the bar kept slipping just as I got it up against the post on the hinge. The other problem is the jack handle was too large of a diameter and I would run into stuff as I tried to push the spring the last couple inches.

I've taken them off... I'll never put a set back on.

Get a set from Craig! Camp 914 Products

The key is the proper leverage on the proper tool!! Trust me, it is easy with this tool! You have to line the wrench up just past the bend in the bar and push. I was surprised at how easy it went on compared to the 3 hours I spent trying to do it without the proper configuration!!! One side at a time and be patient it will fall into place!

Jeff

The trunk shocks are a good way to go if you are not hung up on originality. It allows additional room in the engine compartment too. The Camp 914 kit I hear is good. I made my own using Porsche 944 rear hatch shocks. You can see pics in the attached link.

Dave's 914

I can vouch for Craigs kit. Got it on mine and they are easy install too. I used 2 small pipe wrenches for the springs. Took them off really easy. Put them back on just for grins then took 'm off again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Pipe wrench size was 8" long.

.....b

Had the same problem. Mine were off for 6 years.
The deep socket is used to replace the rollers, which require the up right portion of the spring rod to be behind the axle for the roller. I too tried to explain this to Dave without success. The socket is restricted from complete travel.
I've looked for the "Ricky-Do" tool without success. The notched jack lever is good to scrape your knuckles and learn to curse.
I was finally able to achieve success using Two Vice Grips.
With the holding brackets loosely in place, grasp the spring rod on each side of the bracket. Then roll the rod back toward the roller axle using the vice grip. Alternate the bites on the vice grips to continue to retract the up right portion of the spring rod until the socket can be placed over the up right end. Once the up right is behind the roller axle, tighten the brackets and replace the roller.
No unique tools and decreased danger to yourself.

L. McChesney

Trust me, the modified wrench is the way to go!!

Jeff

Jeff,

Good idea. Is that a 10" or 12" adjustable wrench?

Is there any reason a modified box end wrench would not work? I may have a few extras around that could be cut.

I wonder what the chances are of the cut ring fracturing under load? I don't think even Sears would exchange a Craftsman tool with this alteration! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Mike

It is a 12" wrench.

I used an old wrench and was worried about the ring breaking but it held up fine! I think the metal on the adjustable wrench is thicker than on a box end wrench. Also the straite handle is better than the bent one.

Jeff

Jeff, I made the tool. I still can't figure out how to use it. Here's where I am now. What do I do next?

I don't have enough leverage to just push the bar without the wrench slipping down.

You could always do what I did...

cut dem beotches out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

I cut mine off, I use a tripod stick to hold my hood up.. Ah heck, I guess I can buy some shocks for 40 bucks.

Andrew