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entry Aug 10 2007, 07:34 AM
I've got parts from a 2.0 "GA" 914 engine. The case and heads are gone so this is whats left. All items are OEM stock:

Crankshaft.....$75.00
Cam......$25.00
oil pickup and baffle with rubber gaskets....$25.00
94 mm cylinders (ready to be 96's).....$75.00

I will sell items separately. you pay shipping costs. If you don't like the price make me an offer. Use these as cores for that killer 2316 you've been wanting soooo bad.

Paul flag.gif

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entry Jul 29 2007, 10:11 PM
Last weekend during an a/x I had a problem with my oil filler cover coming off the “neck” of the engine case. I made the oil filler cover pictured below a few years ago because I didn’t like the stock tin one and wanted something with some bling. It never gave me a problem until last weekend but it did leak some oil once an awhile. The problem was the stock bale wire spring didn’t apply enough pressure on the gasket so give a good seal. I thought there must be something else I can do.

Picture of old filler cover on engine

I figured if I could bolt a cover to the case, the bolts would tighten to apply pressure to the gasket. I looked at a spare engine I had and saw the two small 6mm case studs on the right side of the filler neck. All I needed to do is cut and fit a small steel angle to bolt on to those studs. I used a piece of 1/8” x 1” angle and cut/drilled it to fit. It also helped that Jake seemed to have changed these studs out to longer ones because the ones on the spare engine were much shorter. The studs were long enough to get the angle over them and have room for a lock washer and nut.

On the left side of the neck was not as easy as the right side. The dipstick was right next to the neck and there were no studs to use to attach the angle. The dipstick would mean the angle would be much shorter. On my engine Jake has drilled out the small hole where the bale wile spring attaches to the neck. He then installed a bolt with a hole drilled in the head of the bolt to receive the end of the bale wire. The intent I assume would be to spread the bale wire out therefore placing more pressure on the filler neck gasket. I decided to bolt the angle to the case using this hole.

I also welded the nuts to the bottom of the angles. The less parts to come loose the better.

Picture of the case with no filler cover
Picture of the angles.
Picture of angles installed

The new filler cover was made from a 1/4” piece of aluminum. I made it so it would cover the neck and by about 3/8” on the front and back sides and wide enough to be bolted to the angles. A hole was drilled for the dipstick. I used JB Weld to epoxy the filler funnel to the aluminum plate. The second picture below shows the gasket installed. A second piece of ¼” aluminum is used locate the cover on the neck and holds the gasket in place.

Pictures of the cover on the table.

I used socket head cap bolts because they look cool and dirt and engine grime doesn’t stick to them like hex head bolts.

Pictures of cover installed.

I was able to get some shots from the bottom which show the gasket squeezed down tight on the case neck. I’ve adjusted the bolts from the time I took these pictures so that the gasket is tightened down as evenly as possible. The only problem is when I install the engine scoop, you can’t see this piece at all.

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entry Nov 28 2006, 06:46 PM
Finished it up tonight. This could have been the easiest one I've ever done for some reason. This one has the new flapper and slider.

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entry Nov 4 2006, 04:45 PM
This is some details on my front bumper/spoiler. The bumper started as a standard AIR f/g bumper with a GT oil cooler cutout. I closed up the cooler cutout with f/g. The spoiler started as a "Deep Limited Edition" spoiler from AIR. It had the same shape as the LE spoiler but was about 3 inches deeper. At first I added a aluminum strip to it to lower it another inch or so and I added an aluminum splinter. I later replaced the aluminum with f/g as I kept bending up the aluminum. At one point I added huge brake ducts but they kept cracking the f/g, so when I went to an a/x only car I deleted them. I also f/g the bumper to the spioler so it is now a one piece unit. It is held on to the car with 6 dzus 1/4 turn butterfly fasteners. I can get it on and off in about 10 seconds. I have to take it off when I load it on my trailer because it is too low and hits the ramps. The lip or splinter is entirly f/g and is about 3/16" thick. It will rub the track surface under hard braking once in awhile. I also have a towing eye that is screwed onto a theaded rod which sticks thru the bumper. This lines up with my winch on the trailer.

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entry Oct 25 2006, 10:04 AM
I recently picked up a parts car and it's pretty well rusted out. The problem was how do I store this thing. I don't want to keep it on the trailer and have to move it off every time I need the trailer. So......why not jack it up so the trailer can roll under it. I used a couple of 10' long pressure treated 4" x 6" on concrete blocks. Now I'm a real redneck, I got me a car on blocks in my side yard. laugh.gif

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entry Aug 12 2006, 09:22 PM
This comes with...

Carb, manifold, intake runners with boots and clamps, air filter, air filter housing, cable arm, and cool PORSCHE sticker. The boots on the intake runners are cracked.
The buyer should rebuild the carb before using it. Kits are available from CB Performance.

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entry Aug 12 2006, 08:51 PM
Here are pictures of my rear reflector. I DO NOT have the release cable or electric release device. It is in very good shape.

SALE PENDING!

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entry Aug 2 2006, 10:10 AM
This question has been asked several times recently so I thought I would post all the things you could do so I can just cut/paste when it is asked again. biggrin.gif

First you need to realize that making some of thse changes will change what clas you run in at your local autocross. And if it is a street car, these will effect the safety of the car. Steel saves lives- fiberglass saves weight.

1. Change the hoods, bumpers, and valances to fiberglass.
2. Switch to a lightweight fiberglass targa top.
3. Change the glass to polycarbonate
4. Remove the carpet, backpad, pass. seat, sun visors, console,
5. Remove the sound pad from the engine compartment
6. When you change the hood to f/g remove the springs and hardware.
7. Remove the fresh air fan from under the front hood.
8. Replace the heater boxes with a header.
9. Remove the windshield washer system
10. Remove the headlight motors and assocated stuff
11. Remove the arm rests from the door panels
12. Change to early doors w/o the steel beam
13. Remove the door windows and cranks.
14. Remove the heat shield which is over the muffler
15. Remove the sound deading material and any undercoating
16. Remove the seam sealer that cover the welds in the trunks
17. Some think f/g rocker panels save weight over the stock ones. It is true they are lighter but not by much.
18. Aluminum wheels.
19. Racing slicks are at least half the weight of a street tire.
20. Install a racing battery. Saves 15-20 pounds easy.
21. About half the wiring can be cut out.
22. Remove the cover plates from the back side of the brake rotors.
23. Grind/cut off all the brackets/bolts/tabs/ etc that are everywhere on the car.
24. Remove glove box and door.
25. Install f/g door skins

entry Jul 22 2006, 05:04 PM
THIS CASE HAS BEEN SOLD

1.8 #ECO43855

Very clean see pics. I bought it at the Brumos Swap meet in 2004. It was sold to me by one of the race mechanics.

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entry Jun 4 2006, 08:51 PM
After looking at several ideas for engine removal devices I begain thinking of another option. What if I had a set wheels that were bolted to the engine or maybe the engine crossbar that I fabricated? I rounded up some angles and some caster wheels and came up with a plan. I welded 3/16" x 2" x 2" angles to a 1/4" plate that I bolted the caster wheel to. I first bolted the angles through the crossbar than I removed the engine. Once the engine was out of the car I removed the crossbar and welded the small angles to the bar. Than they are always in the correct location and makes things much easier. Here is how it works...

1. Jack up the car so it is level.
2. Bolt the angles with the wheels to the crossbar.
3. Place the floor jack under the front of the engine.
4. Place my cheap tranny jack under the tranny.
5. Unbolt the engine crossbar bolts and the rear tranny bolts and lower the engine to the ground.
6. Jack up the car high enough that the engine can clear the car.
7. Roll it out.
8. Have a cold imported beer. beer3.gif

BTW, I removed the engine from start to finish in 45 minutes by myself. Could have been quicker if I had all the tools laid out and took the body sides off. (4 engine bolts, 4 wires at the dizzy, cl/th cables, fuel line, 2 wires to the starter, 2 axles, shift rod) happy11.gif




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entry May 30 2006, 06:18 AM
I ran a PCA event today. I was fourth overall. A Boxster with a four time National Champ driving, a 996 GT3 and a early 911 beat me. My group ran last in the hottest part of the day and I was sliding all over the place. This time the frontend was sticking and the backend was loose. Also the oil leak is back but it is not the v-cover gaskets, it seems to be a p-rod tube seal on the right side. I'm going to adjust the valves before the next event so I'll fix it than. I have another idea at the front on the engine that I need to look at too.


Now for the rant: This was a "multi event weekend" hosted by the Citrus Region of PCA. It is held in Mt. Dora FL, a little village type town with shops and a old hotel that is the main site. The typical PCA weekend get-a-way. I only attend the a/x as I can't drive my car in the rally and my car is not really concours prepped. We have a ten year old daughter and there nothing for her to do. The entire weekend is $2-$300. I go to register of the a/x and the entry fee is $50.00 fuching dollars!!! And the kicker is because I only am registering for the a/x and not the entire weekend I don't get classified with the other cars. This means no trophy if I win. I could get FTD and don't get anything. $50.00 for 4 runs with no stupid trophy? There were only 6 guys that showed up for the a/x and each of us were saying we won't be back. I spoke to a few of the people and they were saying the intent is to have you sign up for the entire weekend and each event of the weekend will be cheaper. So they may have made $300 from the six of us this year but they will make $0 from us next year. If they would charge $20-30 as most regions do for a typical a/x I'd be back. Instead of making a little money, they will be making no money next year. Who is the marketing wizard that put this plan together?

Rant #2: The average age of the people at the event had to be 55 or older. At this rate the PCA will be gone in 15 years.

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entry May 24 2006, 06:36 AM
I ran my first a/x with my new Hooiser slicks and I won FTD! clap56.gif The car ran strong but not without a few problems. On my third run I was slinging oil over the place and in my car that means on the back of my seat and helmet, on the inside of the door panels, the roll bar etc. When I got home I clean it up and found a valve cover gasket had been sucked up and was leaking (see the pic below) Never had this happen before. sad.gif I also found I had the damn valve covers on the wrong sides. So I flipped them. And the throttle cable was a little loose.
Here are some pictures

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entry Apr 7 2006, 07:25 PM
I need to fabricate a engine lid. Someday I'm going to beat someone and they're going to protest that I don't have a proper "hood" on my car. Rules do say you need someing over the engine. I thinking I add a cover that also has a scoop so I can bring some cool air to the carbs for a few extra HP. And besides it will look cool. The first picture is a Ferrari but I don't like how it sticks over the top of the bar. The Ferrari 333 had the scoop sticking thru the roll bar which is what I want to do.

I found a Baja bug oil cooler scoop on Samba.com for $40.00. It is in the last picture below. With a little work it will be perfect.

4-7-06: I recieved the scoop to day. It will be a great starting point.

5-24-06: I've been working on the scoop and have extended it about 12". I decided to mount it so it is OVER the TOP of the roll bar.

6-26-06: I've now decided to duct it to the air cleaners. It will sit on a cross bar which will be held in with pins so it can be removed quickly. The bottom of the scoop with be formed so it directs the air. There will be a seperate bottom piece which will mount under the carbs and remain in place. The carbs will only be 1/2 covered with the scoop.

10-22-6: Ran my first a/x with the new scoop. It didn't fly off at speed so that a good thing. I realize it's not making me faster but it is getting cooler air to the carbs and that was the point. See the pics below of the finished product. It must have done something good. I set the fastest time of the day.

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Entry 

entry Mar 19 2006, 09:44 PM
ELECTRICAL KILL SWITCH

I had to move my kill switch. (I wish people would call it something else). It was mounted right on the battery which sits beside me in the passenger floor area. Now with the tonneu cover on, I need to move it up so it can be reached. I decided to mount it on the bar which is right next me and stick the "key" though the cover. I welded a little tab to mount it to but it is hard to see in the picture. Pretty tricky mounting the switch below the cover and than drilling a hole from above. wink.gif I need to get one of those offical looking decals with the lighting bolt on it so you can see the key in the sea of red.

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Entry 

entry Mar 19 2006, 09:23 PM
WHEELS POLISHED AND PAINTED

I bought the stuff to polish my wheels myself. I picked up the buffing wheels locally and I got the compounds from Eastwood's. I maybe spent 25$ on the stuff. I just used my 3/8" drill. I also decided to paint the centers flat black. It makes them look more like 3-piece wheels (thier not). This first picture is from when I first got them, no polishing done at all. Second picture shows on the right a hand polished wheel that I spent about 10 minutes on with a hand paste polish. On the left is my first drill polished with the compound. Third pic is my first two done.

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entry Mar 13 2006, 08:55 PM
My console....

The "boot" that goes around the shifter is not original and something has chewed on it a little. The console itself is in fair shape. Maybe some Armorall will clean it up a little. I wiped it down to get the dust off of it and it looked good when it was still damp. But when it dried it could have looked better.

The console has been sold.[b]

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entry Mar 3 2006, 09:09 PM
More doors handles have been repaired.
These are for Jim Tab. One of the "fingers" on the "arm" of the "flapper" was broken on the one he sent me so I replaced it. You can see it in the first picture.

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entry Feb 27 2006, 07:40 AM

Let me explain the ins and outs of one of the poorest designed aspects of the 914; the outside door handles. They can break in several different ways and without warning, but they can be repaired and broken parts can be replaced. New repacement handles are about $200.00 from the retail outlets.

Why it breaks:

First an overview. The handle is made of "pot metal" which is a cheap material which is cast in a mold and than chrome plated. I believe there are several things that cause the handle to fail.

1. First of course is simple abuse. People pull on the handle as if it were a door on a truck. Pulling too hard will cause the handle to bottom out and puts way too much stress on several different parts. Don't pull the handle to open the door. Only pull the handle with enough force to hear it "click" and release. The hatch is spring loaded and the door will pop out when the handle releases the latch.

2. The pivot pin becomes clogged up with 30+ years worth of crap and the handle become harder to release, so you pull harder on it. See item #1.

3. As the cars become older and when rust starts in the longs this weakens the structure of the car, the car sags at the doors. The door gap begins to close up. This effects the alinement of the door latch and the pin that is mounted on the body of the car in the jamb. As the door gap changes the pin and the door latch become harder to release. So you pull harder on the door handle. See #1 again.

Parts of the Handle and How They Can Break:

Handles are different from the right side and the left side and they have a "R" and "L" on the back to indentify them. The difference is the flapper piece is shaped different to follow the curve of the door. You can use a right side handle on the left side and vis-a versa. But a right side flappers can not be used on a left side handle.

1. The "Slider" is the plastic piece that actually strikes the release piece in the door to unlatch it. This can break in a couple of different places but when it is broken your door can not open. It is plastic and over the years get hard and brittle and breaks. The slider has a tab on it that pushes on the door latch, this tab is what break off in most cases. When you go to remove you handle you'll find this little piece of plastic in the bottom of your door. The good news is this piece is being reproduced and sold by Pelican Parts and several other suppliers. It costs less than $20.00 to buy it but you do need to take the handle off of the door to replace it. It can be replaced without taking the handle apart but be careful with the arms of the "flapper" when you do it as the arms are also a weak point and will break. See the first picture below. It shows a stock yellowing one, the broken one in the middle and the black replacement from Pelican.

2. The "Flapper" is the hinged piece that you grab and pull to release the door latch. The flapper has two "arms" or "fingers" which break off. The handle will work with one of the arms broken but not for long. A broken arm allows for the flapper to hit the body of the handle and the other arm will soon break. Once both arms are broken, the handle won't unlatch the door. The left (driver's) side being that it gets used the most use, is the most likey to break. Pelican has them in thier catalog but the are "NLA" (no longer avaible). Mid America has them in thier printed catalog but not in thier on-line catalog. (Mid America's 2004 catalog had them listed for $49.99 and the 2005 catalog has them listed as $129.99!) When I spoke to them they said thier vendor dropped out about 6 months ago. Finding good left side flappers is getting harder and harder. You have to shop for one in the classifieds, find a shop with one or hope one is being sold on ebay. Picture #2 below shows broken flappers, the one on the left has a crack in the arm and is ready to break, the right one is broken off. The fifth picture below shows two left flappers with the arm cracked. Be careful when shoping for a good handle. This crack is hard to spot. To remove a flapper you'll need to grind/file the pin head off and than drive it out of the handle body. But putting it all back together with the spring is a PITA. Go slow and easy and you'll get it after several trys.

3. The rear mounting "Tab" often breaks off the body of the handle. The tab is the piece that you can see when you open the door and look under the flapper. The tab has a short stud, nut and small rubber gasket which holds the rear of the handle to the door. When the tab breaks off the handle will become loose on the door, but in most cases you can still get in the car by holding the handle tight against the door with one hand and pulling the flapper with the other. The stud can also pull out of the tab. This can be repaired by drilling a hole through the tab and installing a bolt and nut. You don't need to remove the handle to do this, but be careful. You will now have to be careful when reaching for the flapper that you don't jamb the end of your fingers into the head of the bolt.

I can repair a broken tab but you need to remove it from the door and send it to me. I take two pieces of aluminum angle and file them to fit inplace of the plastic bushing which are on the pivot shaft. I need to fit the pieces to the handle and drill a hold for a tension pin to hold it all together. I also provide a stainless steel counter sunk machine screw and nut. I counter sink the the head in to the new aluminum tab so that you can't catght you finger on it. I made my first one of these 20 years ago and no one have ever come back to me and said it failed. The third picture below is of a broken tab on the left and a original tab on the right. The forth picture is of one of my repaired handles with the new aluminum tab..

Changing a Lock Cylinder in a Handle:

If you have found a handle with a good flapper and mounting tab to replace your broken one, you don't need to take it apart to exchange good parts for bad. Just switch out the lock cylinders. Remove the handle from the door and put the key in the lock. Remove the small phillips head screw that is on the back end of the cylinder. Carefully pull off the gray end piece which has the offset pin on it. There is a spring below this piece so don't let the spring fly across the room. The spring returns the cylinder to vertical when you turn the key. With the key still in the handle, push the cylinder out of the handle body from the back side. Don't pull on the key or it will just back out of the lock. Once the cylinder is out of the body of the handle DO NOT remove the key form the cylinder. If you do the small key plates that the key is holding in the cylinder will fall out on the floor. The plates (my word for them) are what your key is matched to. If the plates get out of order your key won't work. It is a PITA to figure out the order they all are arranged in to fit your key. I've had to to this before.

Tips for Longer Door Handle Life:

1. Keep the pivot pin and return spring clean by shooting it with some WD40. Open the door, pull the flapper out and you can see the pivot pin and return spring.

2. Never force the handle if you think there is a problem. Go around to the other side and open it first and open your door from the inside.

3. The door will still latch without having a handle on the door. And you can get in from the outside by sticking your finger in the door and pushing on the plate which releases the door. So if you need to send me your handle you can still get in and drive, but of course you can't lock it.

4. Most importantly, to extend the life of the Flapper, ALWAYS PULL THE FLAPPER USING YOUR LEFT THUMB. Sounds stupid I know. If you pull on the handle with your right hand you end up pulling too hard and you usually "over-pull" the flapper. This causes too much stess on the weak flapper. Just pull with your thumb with enough force to release the latch.

Here is a link on how to remove the handle from the door. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...door_handle.htm

And another from a member: http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/porsch...replacement.htm

If you have questions PM me.

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entry Feb 23 2006, 11:56 AM
Stuff I need to get rid off:

Rust free front hood
Rust free rear hood
Stock left side door w/ all the window works removed
Stock metal right side with the beam cut out, and window parts removed
2.0 (94mm) Cylinders which can be taken out to 96mm
2.0 long block-crank/cam/case (no heads)
1.7 Complete engine
1.7 case, open and hot tank cleaned
1.7 heads, ugly but will clean up nicely
Headlight parts, motors, bits and pieces
Rear window glass
Stock starter
Stock FI fuel pump
Boxes of odds and ends
Engine fan housing and sheet metal
USED Long block w/ big valves heads, 1.7 counterweighted crank, 96mm NPR p/c
Stock metal rocker panels
Outside and inside door handles
Single progessive weber carb

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