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I decided if I were going to go to RRC, I needed to tell if the car is
running too hot. I know my compression is very low, but, if I
am running cool enough, it might be worth the risk.

I ordered a cylinder head temperature kit and a voltmeter from
egauges.com. Their prices are okay, although I could probably
do better than that. Anyway, they arrived.

I cut a new panel for the center console, and added a couple of
gauge holes in it. Initially I had a very hard time getting the
CHT sensor kooked up. I couldn't get it under the #3 sparkplug as
desired. I put it under the fuel injection CHT. This was not ideal, but
seemed to work. The temperature was low, but I figured the trend
would be valid. I was quickly told that was NOT true, and the only
place to put the sensor was under #3.

That took a lot of thought, I am not as fast as I used to be. Finally,
I decided to drill a new hole in the cooling shroud to allow the wire
to clear. I did that and wasable to get the gauge installed.

So, I got both the voltmeter and the CHT hooked up. It was nice
that the later cas hve all the wiring necessary! To put the CHT in, I drilled
a hole in the center of the rear firewall. Wiring was easy. I also added
a power inverter to the console since I use the computer so much. It is
not hooked up yet.

The CHT showed that the temperature was a little hot! It was running
almost 450 degrees at highway speeds. That worried me! Indications
were that the temps should be 375-400. I happened to check the oil
level and I was almost a quart down. Adding that brought the temps to
360-375!

The voltmeter showed voltage of 12+ v off, and 14-15 v running. Turning
on the lights dropped the voltage a lot, as I expected. verall, I was happy!

However, and this seems to be the story of my life, once one problem is
fixed, another couple are created. Now I am dealing with a deadspot
problem. The car starts missing at higher RPM's and won't idle again!
I am getting exhaust backfires. I also broke the AAR!

I knew I had airleaks, so I decided to clean them up. I pulled the AFS
amnd the throttle body. I checked the throttle switch, and put
everything back in. I also pulled the AAR, and found the elbow was broken.
I got some more hose, and fixed that.
Then, when I started the car, it would start, and then die dead, no voltage.
I finally found that the wires t the AAR were shorted. I had broken the
connector. When power wwent to the AAR right after starting, the electrical
system shorted out. I took out the AAR completely, I don't really need it!

Now, the miss has increased, and the car won't idle at all! I'm frustrated!!!