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> Internal longs - The product, Product
Engman
post Mar 14 2004, 06:01 PM
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one more.... Brad - BTW you will need to trim the rear edge for the 45 degree form at the bottom up about .1". I will correct this in the future runs.


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Engman
post Mar 14 2004, 06:03 PM
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one more....


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majkos
post Mar 14 2004, 06:07 PM
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Beautiful! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
I want a set! Give me two!
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Jake Raby
post Mar 14 2004, 06:15 PM
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Damn, my waterjet cutter could make those for about 20 bucks a set!
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jonwatts
post Mar 14 2004, 06:18 PM
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no rules, just wrong
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Mar 14 2004, 04:15 PM)
Damn, my waterjet cutter could make those for about 20 bucks a set!

Are you volunteering?
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seanery
post Mar 14 2004, 06:19 PM
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Mark,
is that the white car you drove to the FFR last year or another one?
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seanery
post Mar 14 2004, 06:25 PM
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waiting to rebuild whitey!
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would it help if they formed along to the rear firewall where the arrows point?


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Engman
post Mar 14 2004, 06:31 PM
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Nope this is the 74LE (creamsicle) that has sloooowly been being pieced back together. With any luck my wife will join us next fall.

BTW - this is the third set I have run to fit. It needs minor tweaking - which I am doing before running any finished sets.
I plan on painting these as well - so rust cannot form behind the install. What I have shown is the unpainted version - I slapped some spray on the back side of the ones in the pics.

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Engman
post Mar 14 2004, 06:32 PM
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There is another piece that goes across the back and welds top the side ones. It is a three piece set.

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seanery
post Mar 14 2004, 06:34 PM
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those will be sweet! maybe a winter project for whitey.
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Jake Raby
post Mar 14 2004, 07:20 PM
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I'd be willing to try to see what he would charge for them......if he has one of anything to copy he can do it perfectly..
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seanery
post Mar 14 2004, 08:08 PM
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is that fair to the guy that did the design work?
kinda like you not telling everything about your combos.
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Engman
post Mar 14 2004, 09:49 PM
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Thanks Sean - I was gonna make some wise crack here about copying the Rennshifter or Brad Mayeurs kit but I won't touch em. These guys did the work and developed their kit. Good for them! Good for us!

M
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cha914
post Mar 15 2004, 11:38 AM
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wouldn't you have to worry about bracing the door space when welding these in, so the longs won't shrink?

I know this is common practice when welding cages in, and they are welding a much smaller piece of metal on the longs.

Tony (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Engman
post Mar 15 2004, 02:00 PM
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I have the 74 supported on the jack ponits right now. So far no issue.

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sunfloweryellow914
post Mar 15 2004, 05:02 PM
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The longs you are making are an attempt to add strength to the box beams which run the length of the doors. To keep them from flexing in a vertical direction, the place to add strength is on top rather than on the side as your part does. The bottom of the beam is already strengthened by the pan. I suggest adding epoxy saturated carbon fiber fabric to the top of the box beam. Leave the side alone unless it is failing. Think about an I beam. The strength is in the flanges, not the web.
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Engman
post Mar 15 2004, 05:55 PM
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Au contrair - As an ME who does design work for a living, welding on the top of these is perhaps the worst thing you could do. It will create a HEZ or heat effected zone where they WILL fail. The welding can produce an area that is more brittle than the surronding metal and in the case of the top of the long this would be bad. A crack would most likel develope from rosette to rosette and voilia a crack.

Added metal to the sides helps with the up/down movement of this area, reinforcing it. I have never heard of one where the top was at the root cause of the failure.

I do a lot of work with frame structures which see potentially high impact loads. We NEVER weld across the top or the bottom. We had awelder that could or did not read the blueprints and decided that a weld across a frame top was needed. He cost the company almost $100,000.00 in warranty. Every frame he welded failed at or in the HEZ.

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Mueller
post Mar 15 2004, 06:20 PM
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QUOTE
is that fair to the guy that did the design work?
kinda like you not telling everything about your combos


it depends on how you read Jakes comment......he could just be offering to get these cut for engman at a reduced price..i have no idea what the cost differance is between laser and water cut parts, so I'll stay out of it with that regard (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Are the parts treated with anything such as a weldable primer or galvanizing ???

Looks nice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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Katmanken
post Mar 15 2004, 06:21 PM
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Sunflower,

Quick hand calc looks like it is true but I think what he did will strengthen the car.

Actually, when I first saw the pics, I wondered why there were no bends along the top and bottom edges- sorta a Z shape. From my first engineering job, I was amazed at how much stiffer a piece of sheet metal got after it was bent at a right angle. Taught me to make simple models from cut up, folded, and glued pieces of manilla folders to understand what happens. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So, dunnow if engman considered it, but keep the design he has, and add a bent lip on the top and bottom. Try it in paper or manila folder (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Ken
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Engman
post Mar 15 2004, 06:43 PM
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E-coat primer painted. This is weldable.

Laser cutting is faster and usually cheaper than water jet. We have one of the fastest production lasers in the US. 4000W and it is really fast. We have 4 lasers at work. 10 years old to the latest which is new in the last year. Bystonic is the name.

My boss would not touch it unless I agreed to run a min. of 20 sets in production. My cash, my risk on these. The reason for 20 was to get it on the faster laser -- usually booked for production type runs. You should have seen the 3/8" stainless steel truck muffler flanges they ran on it last week - awesome.


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