Bleeding Brakes - Can't Get Any Pedal Pressure Options

[PRS914-6]

I have had great success with the Motive system. My wife wanted to have a party after I bought one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

One of the problems that I see a lot is pumping the brakes too quickly......Doing so breaks the bubbles up finer and makes them tough to remove. Gently strokes are the key. Both up and down.

If you are having a tough time getting it bled, try 5 gently pumps, hold down the peddle and crack the bleeder. (start at the longest line) Do not raise the peddle until the bleeder is closed. Raise gently and repeat numerous times. You can do this with a Motive bleeder hooked up and it works great. Make sure that when you test (no Motive) that the cap is removed from the vent!!!!

If the system is empty and you try to bleed with the bleeder screw always open, the air can go back and forth and never departs as you pump the brakes.

Also make sure your calipers are on with the bleeder at the top and not the bottom. It's been done on the Pelican Board more than once.

Lastly, re-bleed the next day, I always get a few more bubbles out,

If all else fails, use a syringe (or Motive) and pressure from the bleeder up. It's easier to get the bubbles out since it's up hill.

Good Luck.....

[Cire]

Well, things have not gone well. Here's what I've done or had happen to me:

1. Bled all 4 wheels using long tube. I'm sure I had no air coming through the tube, but at the end I had no better pedal. While bleeding I could feel resistance when doing each rear caliper, but hardly any resistance from either front caliper.

2. Took it out for a drive on a very bumpy road in hopes of getting bubbles out of MC.

3. Bled right rear again using long tube. Could feel much better resistance building.

4. Bled left rear and felt really good pedal pressure starting to build, then suddenly NOTHING. I discovered that I must not have closed the right rear very well because I had fluid on the ground, but after closing it I still had nothing. The MC is not pushing any fluid through the hose that is currently on the right front caliper.

So at this point I'm thinking that the MC has had a seal fail suddenly. Is there any reason to think otherwise?

I just did the rear brakes in my car. The pads were down to very small and I had to spread apart the calipers to get them to accept the bigger brakes. Did you have to spread yours on the front?

I am having the same issue. Actually my brake fluid res. is full... then I pump it and it goes down but then over the course of a minute, it refills back up.... No pressure. Was just looking for something we could have done in comon.

Eric

[VaccaRabite]

Couple things to check.

1) when you are bleeding, are you using speed bleeders or standard bleeders. If using standards, are you closing the bleeder screw with each pump to keep it from sucking air back into the caliper? Long tubes work best with speed bleeders, since you don't have to worry about sucking air past the check valve in the speed bleeder.

2) If you don't have a motive pressure bleeder, get one. It makes initial bleeding a snap. At 10 to 15 PSI, you will find your stubborn air bubbles, and it keeps the reservouir full. They don't work with speed bleeders though.

Zach

[IronHillRestorations]

Did you install the calipers on the wrong sides? Just happened to another memmber on this board. The bleeders have to be on the top of the caliper, otherwise you have them swapped side to side.

[tod914]

Maybe jack up the passanger rear, tap the caliper gentle with a rubber mallet. Then bleed it. Then the drivers rear up, same method. Then passanger front, then driver's front. Might help to move some of the air around.

[SLITS]

I vaguely remember a parallel story where the calipers were installed upside down .... bleeders on the bottom not on the top. This may be a continuation of the same story.

[pcar9146guy]

This thread started in March of this year.....Hope he has them working by now....It's always nice when people do follow up stories about what worked for their problem.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Sleepin]

Yes, this has been corrected and are working wonderfully from what I hear. Calipers were upside down.

[6freak]

I prefer the two man way....

REALLY so the truth comes out! its ok no one here will hate you ! well maybe one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) ,,,,,, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) , (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Krank]

The first thing I always do when doing hydraulic brakes is: remove all bleeders and take a small drill bit to clean out the bleeder ports. the little suckers always have a bit of rust slowing down the release of fluid, just enough to make bleeding difficult. I prefer the pressure bleed technique and when doing so always start at the furthest wheel. When bleeding the cylinder connect a clear plastic tube into a glass bottle and watch the flow to check for any signs of bubbles. When I have fluid flowing I swiftly open and close the bleeder to keep the air compressed and traveling towards the bleeder port. This of course is after all necessary components have been checked and replaced/repaired as required. One quick method of diagnosis is to isolate the front or just one wheel from the rest by gently pinching the brake hose to the closest wheel or set. This also works to test an existing cylinder/caliper by applying full pressure on just an old/weak location as pressure will seek the weakest point. Sure enough as soon as you have replaced/repaired a couple of wheels the third or fourth one springs a leak a short time later. You should be able to "pump" up the brakes and get some kind of pressure or resistance but if there is any air present the pedal will feel spongy. Once you have some pedal pressure, press and hold the pedal down to see if you can maintain pressure in the system. I usually hold it for as long as the blood remains in my leg. This will indicate a bypass in the master if the pedal slowly creeps down. It usually occurs in the "normal" application zone of the master where most of the wear occurs in the bore.