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> Newbie Tears Into Webers
VaccaRabite
post Oct 15 2009, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 15 2009, 12:57 PM) *

I would be nice if the ole "double nut" technique to remove the studs worked... (I'm sure you know that trick...)

Wha? I've pulled many a stud using the old double..... waiiiit a second. Your talking about masterbation, aren't you.

(IMG:http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z298/cdump06/Images/sexy/images/idHitIt2TimesBW70s.jpg)

Zach
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r_towle
post Oct 15 2009, 12:34 PM
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I typically install a spring at the main throttle cable attachment to the linkage. This pulls them closed with a snap.
The extra spring is also required by most racing orgs.

The other thing you may want to consider is getting new springs for the carbs, they wear out. I never replace them, I just use the additional spring to guarantee they close.

If you have a really stubborn one that keeps acting up, loosen the little screws on the brass plates...close the throttle body and line up the plate better, tighten the screw and see if that works...that is a trial an error process that may take one or two times to get it perfectly aligned.

Given the age of the carbs, assume they were rebuilt at least once since new...and that person may have not aligned the plates...so now its your turn.

This is why when I rebuild a carb I do everything on it...including the plates and shafts...then I KNOW it has been done properly.
As you found out...its not super hard, its just tedious.

rich
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SirAndy
post Oct 15 2009, 12:45 PM
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QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 15 2009, 09:57 AM) *

I would be nice if the ole "double nut" technique to remove the studs worked... (I'm sure you know that trick...)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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tat2dphreak
post Oct 15 2009, 12:56 PM
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I've used that technique to remove the studs too, Andy, you haven't lost it yet...

you just run 2 nuts onto the threads and then tighten them against each other(lossen the bottom one while tightening the top one, until they are tight as hell against each other. then put a wrench on the bottom one and loosen... the nut can't go anywhere because of the nut above it, so it loosens the whole stud.

I had a buggered-up exhaust stud I removed this way and replaced with loctite.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 12:59 PM
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Yeah...it didn't work for me...even used a lock washer in between. That and aving a stiff neck today, I went out and found phenolic gaskets that were half the thickness of the ones I got from PP. All is well now. Old studs, neck still stiff, phenolic gaskets. Besides, I don't actually drive this car...just work on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)



QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 15 2009, 01:57 PM) *

I would be nice if the ole "double nut" technique to remove the studs worked... (I'm sure you know that trick...)
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 15 2009, 01:10 PM
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I have only ever had one stud that could not be removed by double nutting. Sometimes you need to heat the metal around the stud, and sometime you need to use a penetrating oil.

For my head studs, I just bought a lenght of m8 all thread, and cut my own.

Where did you find thin phenolics for a TIV in our area, BTW?!

Zach
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 01:18 PM
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Damon's

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 15 2009, 03:10 PM) *

I have only ever had one stud that could not be removed by double nutting. Sometimes you need to heat the metal around the stud, and sometime you need to use a penetrating oil.

For my head studs, I just bought a lenght of m8 all thread, and cut my own.

Where did you find thin phenolics for a TIV in our area, BTW?!

Zach
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 01:19 PM
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A Thing Of Beauty:
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neil30076
post Oct 15 2009, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 15 2009, 12:19 PM) *

A Thing Of Beauty:


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Way to clean, now get the other one on and get syncing!
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type47
post Oct 15 2009, 03:22 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 15 2009, 10:45 AM) *

QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 15 2009, 09:57 AM) *

I would be nice if the ole "double nut" technique to remove the studs worked... (I'm sure you know that trick...)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) same as you described it
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Gint
post Oct 15 2009, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 15 2009, 11:59 AM) *
Yeah...it didn't work for me...even used a lock washer in between. That and aving a stiff neck today, I went out and found phenolic gaskets that were half the thickness of the ones I got from PP. All is well now. Old studs, neck still stiff, phenolic gaskets. Besides, I don't actually drive this car...just work on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

And that my friend is going to effect the length of your linkage rods. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 05:36 PM
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How do you get new springs but not replace them...just use additonal? Are you talkibg about the big spring on the end of the throttle spindle?

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 15 2009, 02:34 PM) *

I typically install a spring at the main throttle cable attachment to the linkage. This pulls them closed with a snap.
The extra spring is also required by most racing orgs.

The other thing you may want to consider is getting new springs for the carbs, they wear out. I never replace them, I just use the additional spring to guarantee they close.

If you have a really stubborn one that keeps acting up, loosen the little screws on the brass plates...close the throttle body and line up the plate better, tighten the screw and see if that works...that is a trial an error process that may take one or two times to get it perfectly aligned.

Given the age of the carbs, assume they were rebuilt at least once since new...and that person may have not aligned the plates...so now its your turn.

This is why when I rebuild a carb I do everything on it...including the plates and shafts...then I KNOW it has been done properly.
As you found out...its not super hard, its just tedious.

rich
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r_towle
post Oct 15 2009, 05:45 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 15 2009, 07:36 PM) *

How do you get new springs but not replace them...just use additonal? Are you talkibg about the big spring on the end of the throttle spindle?

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 15 2009, 02:34 PM) *

I typically install a spring at the main throttle cable attachment to the linkage. This pulls them closed with a snap.
The extra spring is also required by most racing orgs.

The other thing you may want to consider is getting new springs for the carbs, they wear out. I never replace them, I just use the additional spring to guarantee they close.

If you have a really stubborn one that keeps acting up, loosen the little screws on the brass plates...close the throttle body and line up the plate better, tighten the screw and see if that works...that is a trial an error process that may take one or two times to get it perfectly aligned.

Given the age of the carbs, assume they were rebuilt at least once since new...and that person may have not aligned the plates...so now its your turn.

This is why when I rebuild a carb I do everything on it...including the plates and shafts...then I KNOW it has been done properly.
As you found out...its not super hard, its just tedious.

rich



I may have not been clear.
I choose to not replace the spring on the end of the throttle shaft.
You can choose to do that. You can buy new ones.

Rich
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 06:10 PM
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The discussion is moot...the last dousing of WD40 (life's cure all) mist have done "it"...the thing closes like an 18 year old...never mind. It's cured. Onward with reinstallation. As soon as Boo Boo leave sin a few minutes to sleep over her friends house, and the Colbert Report ends...
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 07:38 PM
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OK...so I'm back to work, cleaning off the flange for the intake manifold, when I see these two "dead" ends of wires. The red arrow is pointing to a yellow wire that is messily taped off, and the one the yellow arrow is pointing to is just lying bare against the tins. Any idea what these two guys are ?

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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 07:41 PM
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I'll have everything together tonight, but need to get one more nut tomorrow for the carb base to mount it (remember there was one missing on the intake manifold to head?). I'll try to start her tomorrow and report the results.
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r_towle
post Oct 15 2009, 07:54 PM
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Yellow arrow is the CHT used only for the FI system.

Red arrow may be the ambient air temp sensor used only for the FI system...

Show a pic of your oil pressure sensor...

Rich
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 08:12 PM
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Also showing my super incredible carb linkage:

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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 15 2009, 08:31 PM
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On a side note, my engine VIN is W0 060402 which according to my short research would be for a 1971 car. Mine is a 1970, built in March of 1970. Could it be the original motor or definitely not. I know it's a 1911cc car so perhaps a PO just built up another engine instead of the original?
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r_towle
post Oct 15 2009, 08:32 PM
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Those are exactly what I said...both wires are not needed.

Rich
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