Newbie Tears Into Webers Options

[kenshapiro2002]

Thanks. When you talk about the tabs breaking, are you referring to the split section of the body that the drift pin presses into on the pin that the floats hang on?

1. no big deal. it will be apparent
2. use the new needle valve. float height is critical. Be careful removing the float pivot b/c the tabs holding it tend to break. I have used JB weld to repair this in both my carbs.
3. IDK about too long, but a day or two should be fine
4. yes
5. no
6.leave it.

Thanks guys. Some questions:

1.) The one part I may have blown was when the manual said, "Note which way round (freakin' Brits) the needle valve return spring hook is positioned". Well...it fell off before I "noted" I can always look at the other carb I guess.

2.) How come the rebuild kit comes with a new needle valve assembly for the float?

3.) How long should I soak the body? Thought I read somewhere that you can soak aluminum for too long.

4.) The vacuum ports are just for blanking (I removed them anyway)?

5.) Do I need to remove the vacuum advance port?

6.) Why should I remove the idle speed screw? Can't I leave it right where it is...all properly set and all?

[SGB]

The tabs that hold the float pivot inside break easily.

[kenshapiro2002]

So...how come the Weber rebuild kits come with four intake manifold gaskets? I thought the other two were for the block to manifold joint, but found out they're a different size.

[neil30076]

So...how come the Weber rebuild kits come with four intake manifold gaskets? I thought the other two were for the block to manifold joint, but found out they're a different size.

Not really answering this specific question ( i don't recall what came in my kits) but i believe you use 1 on each side of the thick phenolic spacer,
FYI, See my attached for some hints on the rebuild kit top gaskets.
 Rebuild_Instructions.pdf ( 468.96k ) Number of downloads: 183

[kenshapiro2002]

Neil,

What "thick phenolic spacer"? When I pulled my carbs, there was only one fiber gasket in there.

Also, as long as I'm rebuilding the carbs, might as well replace the old rubber fuel lines. What are my options? I'd like to do something "trick" looking.

So...how come the Weber rebuild kits come with four intake manifold gaskets? I thought the other two were for the block to manifold joint, but found out they're a different size.

Not really answering this specific question ( i don't recall what came in my kits) but i believe you use 1 on each side of the thick phenolic spacer,
FYI, See my attached for some hints on the rebuild kit top gaskets.
 Rebuild_Instructions.pdf ( 468.96k ) Number of downloads: 183

[neil30076]

Neil,

What "thick phenolic spacer"? When I pulled my carbs, there was only one fiber gasket in there.

Also, as long as I'm rebuilding the carbs, might as well replace the old rubber fuel lines. What are my options? I'd like to do something "trick" looking.

We may not be talking about the same part, I mean the one at the bottom end of the inlet manifold - as in this picture- which you would not see if you only remove the carbs, so sorry for the confusion.
For fuel lines there are a lot of options, stainless, etc, check out summitracing.com for some neat stuff, or you local autozone if they have a 'racing or off road dept, as some of mine do.

[jmill]

2.) How come the rebuild kit comes with a new needle valve assembly for the float?

Make sure you change the whole thing. It's a matched set. Don't just slap on the new needle and leave the old seat in.

[kenshapiro2002]

Gotcha. Just wondering why they have it in the rebuild kit...looks like something that wouldn't have much of a wear factor. Then again...whatta I know!

2.) How come the rebuild kit comes with a new needle valve assembly for the float?

Make sure you change the whole thing. It's a matched set. Don't just slap on the new needle and leave the old seat in.

[SGB]

Neil,

What "thick phenolic spacer"? When I pulled my carbs, there was only one fiber gasket in there.

As was said, these go between the cylinder head and intake manifold

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewprodu...013&cartid=

Same folks have some nice fuel lines and such also...

[kenshapiro2002]

Yeah...but I was asking about the gaskets that come with the rebuild kits...at the other end of the intake manifold...where the carb bolts on. No idea why they put four in the bag (my other bag actually has five). The ones you're referring to are only supposed to have the thick phenolic gasket if you're still running FI me thinks...a thinner one for carbs.

As was said, these go between the cylinder head and intake manifold
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewprodu...013&cartid=

Same folks have some nice fuel lines and such also...

[kenshapiro2002]

I'm clueless on what you're referring to about "some people have some nice fuel lines...". You a vendor?

Same folks have some nice fuel lines and such also...

[kenshapiro2002]

Hmmmmmm...aircooled.com says to use the thicker phenolic intake gasket with FI and the thinner ones with carbs. A tech at PP just told me to use the thicker ones even with carbs..."Better to keep the heat away from the runners even with carbs". Wondering if he's right or jsut said that because the thicker ones are the only ones they carry?

[neil30076]

Hmmmmmm...aircooled.com says to use the thicker phenolic intake gasket with FI and the thinner ones with carbs. A tech at PP just told me to use the thicker ones even with carbs..."Better to keep the heat away from the runners even with carbs". Wondering if he's right or jsut said that because the thicker ones are the only ones they carry?

Almost every thread i have read says to use the thick one with carbs also, or the heat quickly moves up the inlets and can cause other problems.
I'm sure someone else will chime in on this, its a popular issue!

[tat2dphreak]

use the same damn ones... thick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

if not you will have hot-start issues.thin fiber gaskets are not enough
[

[r_towle]

Show a pic of the gaskets.
Weber rebuild kits are for many applications and the thin gaskets cost about 0.03 so they probably just throw in enough for most applications.

Typical setup for our cars is a thick phenolic spacer at the head to manifold connection, this creates a thermal break.
Thin gaskets at the carb to manifold connection is all that should be needed.

Float needle valve...replace it, they do wear and leak.
Set float with new needle valve in place.
The tab that breaks easily is the one you will be bending to set the float....so just go slow and gently.

Dipping...read the can..Aluminum is 20-30 minutes max...then wash with water to stop the acid....then do it again if needed.
Dont leave aluminum in overnight.

The spring is self evident when you go to put it back together...its job it to close the carbs, so there is really only one way that it can do that...
There is a nub on the casting of the body that holds one side of the spring, the other side gets connected to the linkage piece...
If you look at it, it can only go one way and do that job.

Rich

[kenshapiro2002]

The cleaner is supposed to be kept off skin, but nitrite and latex gloves simply melt away. How long do I have before the cancer sets in?

[kenshapiro2002]

Called Weber Direct and the guy said they throw in extras for other applications.

Show a pic of the gaskets.
Weber rebuild kits are for many applications and the thin gaskets cost about 0.03 so they probably just throw in enough for most applications.

Typical setup for our cars is a thick phenolic spacer at the head to manifold connection, this creates a thermal break.
Thin gaskets at the carb to manifold connection is all that should be needed.

Float needle valve...replace it, they do wear and leak.
Set float with new needle valve in place.
The tab that breaks easily is the one you will be bending to set the float....so just go slow and gently.

Dipping...read the can..Aluminum is 20-30 minutes max...then wash with water to stop the acid....then do it again if needed.
Dont leave aluminum in overnight.

The spring is self evident when you go to put it back together...its job it to close the carbs, so there is really only one way that it can do that...
There is a nub on the casting of the body that holds one side of the spring, the other side gets connected to the linkage piece...
If you look at it, it can only go one way and do that job.

Rich

[r_towle]

The cleaner is supposed to be kept off skin, but nitrite and latex gloves simply melt away. How long do I have before the cancer sets in?

Wash your hands alot...

Rich

[kenshapiro2002]

I believe you once said to check the floats in gas to see if there are any leaks (air bubbles). Why gas instead of doing it in water?

The cleaner is supposed to be kept off skin, but nitrite and latex gloves simply melt away. How long do I have before the cancer sets in?

Wash your hands alot...

Rich

[SGB]

You just don't want to get water into a leaky float, then have it slowly creep back into the gas in the bowl.

I'm not a vendor, I did buy fuel line and fittings and venturis from aircooled,net.

The tabs I broke are the ones that HOLD the pin that the float pivots on (two in each carb next to the needle valve), not the little flat tab on the float assembly that contacts the needle valve (the one used to set the float height).