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> Newbie Tears Into Webers
r_towle
post Oct 12 2009, 11:37 AM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 01:00 PM) *

My float was at 8mm (with gasket on), instead of the 10mm it should have been. What significant behaviors, if any, might that have been causing?

Everything else looked pretty clean in this first carb, and it's going back together very nicely...no where near as confusing as I thought it would be...definitely a 3-4 on a scale of 1-10. I;m guessing that if carbs were a problem with my performance, it was more the adjustment itself, but we'll see.


8mm versus 10mm means you could have been flooding the motor with the float not seating the valve correctly.
If you changed the valve and seat to the new one, that may account for the 2mm difference.
Rarely do both carbs match...that, as you can imagine, does affect how the motor runs.

The drop measurement is also critical due to the fact that its when the valve opens, and due to the geometry of the float, if it opens to far...it can get stuck.

Rich
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 12:46 PM
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Now...if it runs as well as it looks...
Attached Image

Any logic in putting the rebuilt carb back in with the one yet to be done, just to see if things improve or not?
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SirAndy
post Oct 12 2009, 12:50 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 10:46 AM) *
Any logic in putting the rebuilt carb back in with the one yet to be done, just to see if things improve or not?

No.

But once both are done and one side gives you trouble, a quick way to check if it's carb related or engine related is to swap the carbs side to side ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 01:01 PM
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OK...thanks.


QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 12 2009, 02:50 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 10:46 AM) *
Any logic in putting the rebuilt carb back in with the one yet to be done, just to see if things improve or not?

No.

But once both are done and one side gives you trouble, a quick way to check if it's carb related or engine related is to swap the carbs side to side ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

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r_towle
post Oct 12 2009, 01:09 PM
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Just do the other one...then you will KNOW its done and wont question the float settings, or the gunk...

Rich
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McMark
post Oct 12 2009, 01:31 PM
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I'm a little late to this thread, but my comments.

1. Floats checked in water need to be absolutely dry before you put them back in. Water drops will sit in your float bowls and corrode the aluminum, possibly creating 'crap' that will clog carbs.

2. You ABSOLUTELY need to sync the carbs before you can expect them to run correctly. I don't care how "perfectly" you took it apart. Assuming things like this are 'right' is where you'll chase your tail forever. Do it. Don't debate it. Do it. Do it. Do it.

3. No, there is no logic to putting bad, dirty parts back into your car just as a 'test'. Just clean them both out thoroughly, make sure everything is right on them, and then put them both back in. You're really 'shortcutting' here and it's only going to make it take longer.

4. You don't need to quote something in every reply. (This applies to Rich T as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ) We're reading the thread. We can follow along.

5. You should write down, or post here all you jet/venturi sizes for reference.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 01:44 PM
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Idle - 50
Main - 115
AC Jet - 200
Emulsion Tubes - F11
Accel. Pump Value - 55
Accel. Pump Jets - 50 EW
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r_towle
post Oct 12 2009, 03:04 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 12 2009, 03:31 PM) *

I'm a little late to this thread, but my comments.

1. Floats checked in water need to be absolutely dry before you put them back in. Water drops will sit in your float bowls and corrode the aluminum, possibly creating 'crap' that will clog carbs.

2. You ABSOLUTELY need to sync the carbs before you can expect them to run correctly. I don't care how "perfectly" you took it apart. Assuming things like this are 'right' is where you'll chase your tail forever. Do it. Don't debate it. Do it. Do it. Do it.

3. No, there is no logic to putting bad, dirty parts back into your car just as a 'test'. Just clean them both out thoroughly, make sure everything is right on them, and then put them both back in. You're really 'shortcutting' here and it's only going to make it take longer.

4. You don't need to quote something in every reply. (This applies to Rich T as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ) We're reading the thread. We can follow along.

5. You should write down, or post here all you jet/venturi sizes for reference.


I dont quote everything...

Rich
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 04:34 PM
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Neither do I, but then again, he didn't say that we did. He said, "You don't need to quote something in every reply", meaning we do it too often for his likes. I am trying, therefore, to cut back. It must be a bad thing, and I wanna be good.Like when you told me not to post my questions to "both" sites. I stopped that when you spanked me, and now you've been spanked too. Hurts horribly doesn't it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

I dont quote everything...

Rich

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jmill
post Oct 12 2009, 05:17 PM
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I thought you went to 125 mains. Are you going back to the 115's now?

They'll also need to know your vent size. I'm assuming it's 28.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 07:16 PM
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I bought the 125s, ran them for a few days and then things went south again. I can use either. I figure the 115s were in there for the guy who built the car in 1984 and it ran well for him. It might be a performance improvement, but it didn't solve my problem with driveability. I'd like to get it running right without changing too much.

Whattaya mean by vent size?

QUOTE(jmill @ Oct 12 2009, 07:17 PM) *

I thought you went to 125 mains. Are you going back to the 115's now?

They'll also need to know your vent size. I'm assuming it's 28.

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neil30076
post Oct 12 2009, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 06:16 PM) *



Whattaya mean by vent size?



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
( venturi) -
I'll make this non technical - It's the cast aluminum tube sitting down inside each bore of the carb - if you remove the screw locking it in you can remove it, or the size may be visible if you look down in to it. Don't refer to the diagram Rich posted long ago, its not on there!
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URY914
post Oct 12 2009, 07:37 PM
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When reinstalling the carb to the manifold, and the manifold to the head you must use new gaskets. Also use gaskets between the air cleaner housing and the linkage base plate if you have one. You can not have metal to metal anywhere. It will leak air. All the air must enter the carb from the top, not leaking in from the sides. Air leaks will cause back firing and popping.

And when you tighten the carb to manifold nuts and the manifold to head studs use lock washers. The nuts need to be snug to prevent air leaks.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 09:02 PM
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Oh...the auxiliary venturis! They are 28s. Hey...why do they need to be removed when cleaning the carbs ?



QUOTE(neil30076 @ Oct 12 2009, 09:33 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 06:16 PM) *



Whattaya mean by vent size?



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
( venturi) -
I'll make this non technical - It's the cast aluminum tube sitting down inside each bore of the carb - if you remove the screw locking it in you can remove it, or the size may be visible if you look down in to it. Don't refer to the diagram Rich posted long ago, its not on there!

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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 12 2009, 09:05 PM
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I had tons of popping and backfiring. I'm using all new gaskets eberywhere...no metal to metal. None of the manifold nuts had any washers on them and the manifold to head nuts were almost finger loose. I'll get some lock washers...thanks!


QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 12 2009, 09:37 PM) *

When reinstalling the carb to the manifold, and the manifold to the head you must use new gaskets. Also use gaskets between the air cleaner housing and the linkage base plate if you have one. You can not have metal to metal anywhere. It will leak air. All the air must enter the carb from the top, not leaking in from the sides. Air leaks will cause back firing and popping.

And when you tighten the carb to manifold nuts and the manifold to head studs use lock washers. The nuts need to be snug to prevent air leaks.

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jmill
post Oct 12 2009, 09:12 PM
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Washers find a way to drop into the intake and cause havoc. I like nylocks.
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McMark
post Oct 12 2009, 09:34 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) You guys are funny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 12 2009, 10:51 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 12 2009, 10:02 PM) *

Oh...the auxiliary venturis! They are 28s. Hey...why do they need to be removed when cleaning the carbs ?

(Quoted for Burgerman) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

No. the 28s are your main venturi.
Your aux vents are inside the main vents.

In the pic below (a 40 IDF) #14is the aux, and #15 is the main.

(IMG:http://www.carburetion.com/diags/diagimg/40idfpic.jpg)

Zach
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jaxdream
post Oct 13 2009, 12:30 AM
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The fella is trying do solve some issues himself, I won't knock him for that . Not everybody was born with a wrench in hand, it takes time and most of all patience. He's no different than others here , he just wants to get his car running , rolling , stopping very well so he can enjoy the pleasure of driving and owning a 914.
Ken your persistance will pay off!! Keep it up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Jaxdream
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 13 2009, 05:29 AM
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See...if I just say "Thanks" (to your compliment about my funniness) withour quoting you, nobody will know what the hell I'm responding to. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 12 2009, 11:34 PM) *

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